Excellent video! “Wire Nut” is a registered trade mark of Ideal Industries as of 1/22/63. For safety sake and for a good electrical connection, I always pre-twist my wires for now over 50 years without a problem.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs You are most welcome. So companies are very protective about their names such as Xerox where they want to people to use the work "photocopy" a page. The word "aspirin" lost its trade mark protection because it become general vocabulary among people.
I don't know what manufacturer's instructions you've been reading, but all the ones I've read said pre-twisting permitted but not required. I always pre twist and I always will.
Thanks for sharing. The rule that caught my attention was putting the stranded wire a bit higher than the non-stranded wire when incorporating them both into a wire nut. That makes perfect sense and I can see where that would make a better, secure connection. Appreciate the tips.
Yep, that's the tip that I took away from this video too. It makes perfect sense -- the solid wire won't twist (and therefore won't shorten) but the stranded wire will. Great tip. Just sane... :^) Saint
Both are great as long as they're done right, I had a service van for 4 years before I move to Industrial and I've seen issues with all kinds of connections. Biggest thing is when stripping the wire if you notice your stippers are ringing or marking the wire use the next larger gauge as I've seen far more wires breaking before the connections then a problem with the connections itself.
Once you go lever Wago, you’ll never go back. Not only can you test the connection but you can visually inspect them to verify the wires are in correctly. Also trouble shooting is so much easier as you pop a lever to isolate a line.
I’m happy you talked about it. Because as a professional i’m shocked wirenuts are still used in the states. Here in Belgium you can still buy them, but they have not been used anymore since the early 90’s. Just use Wago’s, all preassumptions are wrong.
I am not a professional. I have been wiring up my home workshop and have found your videos to be very helpful. So far, I haven’t had any issues. Thank you.
Building Maintenance here. So glad I found you. Have watched several of your videos dealing with electrical items. You've answered a lot of questions that I've had over the years. I've always used wire nuts, usually with a pre-twist, but I'll be giving those Wago's a try soon. From reading some of the comments, it appears that they take up less room in a box so that's a big plus too. Thanks for sharing!
DIY 10 I learned something from everything you discussed. I rewired a duplex in Oakland, CA in the mid 1980's- all with permits - so it was done properly and to code. I completely remodeled the duplex including raising the foundation, adding a bedroom and bathroom, yet I still learned something from everything you discussed tonight. I am very glad I found you. I don't do much electrical anymore but still want to do my own work. Thanks for all your information. Mike
The wire nut instructions don't say that you shouldn't pre-twist, they just say that it isn't necessary- that's a big difference! In my opinion pre-twisting may not be necessary in new 14 gauge wire, but for 12 gauge solid wire (or thicker) at least it's a very good idea, as it's hard to get a thorough twist using only the wire nut
Pre-twisted hundreds of times (not an electrician, home DIYer), but now mostly non-pre-twist. Didn't know about the stranded 1/8" lead - very helpful! Thank you!
I'm a DIYer from Scotland and here in the UK we've never used wire nuts it was always the old multiblock connectors that you could cut down to whatever size you needed,I use the Wago/Ideal push or lever style but after watching John Wards video on testing them out in a comparison to the cheaper Chinese copies of the grey with orange lever kind I now save money by not buying the more expensive ones and getting the cheaper make on Amazon,John's test showed that even at double the maximum voltage that our 240v domestic system supplies they reacted the exact same as the named brands,if you have not watched John Wards channel I highly recommend it.Another brilliant innovation to the electrical business is the Quickwire system,it is absolutely one of the best junction box/connectors I have seen especially if you are using loop in loop out and switching on your lighting circuits etc,really enjoy your videos even tho our UK components and wiring systems are slightly different from USA and Canada
A couple years ago I came across the Wago push-in connectors. Will not go back. But for mixing solid and stranded, like on light fixtures, will definitely be using the Lever Nuts.
I'm licensed but almost retired. The Ideal Twisters became my favorite connectors the past 30 years. I'll probably never use the wagos because I'm a dinosaur but, they look like they would be easier on your hands and wrists if you do a lot of repetitive work. Enjoyable video!
I’m a couple years behind you , but also a dinosaur. I’ve used the wagos on a few job but they feel like the equivalent of backstabbing. They are pretty easy though.
@@itaintrocketscience Except they have been proven to actually handle the current and not pop loose. I love Wago connectors and I hate backstabbing. Just don't buy the fake clones.
Great video. Thanks. I've never really ever been shown how to properly use a wire nut. I've kind of learned over 45 years of DIY experience but I still learned some new things in this video.
Thanks to one of your videos I learned about the Wago connectors. I had several wires coming together in a connection and I replaced the wire nuts with Wagos which helped simplify everything and looks better
DIY - 0 I use all three of the connectors you covered and think that each has its place and all are OK to use if you know how to use them. Your video covered the important aspects of their use in a clear and concise manner. Every DIYer should watch it before attempting to perform any high voltage wiring. The one thing you didn’t mention about the Wago lever lock connectors is that you have to be careful when you stuff your wiring behind large devices like GFCI receptacles or WiFi switches that the lever(s) on the Wago connector block haven’t inadvertently contacted a wire or corner of the device and been forced open. I have had that happen to me in a couple of occasions. Fortunately when I tested the circuit before installing the cover plates I discovered the fault because the wire was completely withdrawn from the now open connector block. The problem with the large size devices is that their size forces you to stuff the wire more tightly into what little space is left in a shallow box. They also limit your ability to visualize the now open lever. If the wire was still positioned loosely within the connector block there is a risk of a high resistance or intermittent connection and potentially a fire hazard.
I just finished working with the Wago's for the first time and loved them. I felt the Wago was much easier to use in a crowded box. Wire nuts stiffen up when grouped together where the Wago's were much more likely to be less stiff like a single wire. I was changing to smart switches which take more room than the original sp switch. I still used the wire nuts for the neutral groups because there were more wires to that connection.
You can stick your tester lead in them on the front and on the back(special holes for it). You can and should visual check your connections through the transparant housing. Use them for your neutral aswel. The push in version exist up to 8 and the clamping one with lever up to 5. The ones with lever are better, but bigger and more expensive. In routine work you should use pushin version. Also check their range for connecting wires on DIN rails. Just like phoenix contact they are among the best.
Same issue, moving my house to smart switches. In some boxes I could not get the switch in until I switched to one of these push on connectors. Mostly because they're flat and I can push them to the back of the box. I gain just enough space over the Marrettes to get the switch in.
Very timely for me!! I just installed a dimmer light that has stranded and also needs to tap into the neutral bundle in the box. I used push-in ilo wire nuts and triple-checked my connections but I was not feeling happy or confident while putting the switch plate back on. I stopped at Home Depot last night for a few extra supplies and already had plans to open it back up and re-do the mess in that box this week.
The action of pre twisting can cause deep scores in the surface of the metal of the wire which if you are heavy handed will cause cross ways thin spots in the conductor & can cause a hot spot under heavy load because it essentially makes the wire too thin. It also makes the junction unspecified for UL or CSA ratings. It is why we do not use screw downs without a fixed contact buffer plate between the screw & the wire in it's insertion hole. The practice is literally the action of part cutting the wire strands...
DIY, tried out the WAGO 221 connectors because of you. Bought the 175 pack. I really wish I had them when we built this monster house back in 1996. Updated, and changing some dimmer switches, all the wire nuts came out, and WAGO 221 connectors were used.
Re #4, names for them: I'm in Eastern Ontario, Canada, and I've never heard of 'wire nuts' before this, they're all called 'marettes' here. That said, I'd never heard of the Wago connectors either, they aren't very common around here. You're a wealth of knowledge and experience - thanks!
One you didn’t mention is the Marrette with the brass insert and set screw, inside the screw on cover. Sometimes found in older homes. Also worth mentioning is that the cheap wire nuts often included with electrical fixtures are one use only. I’ve found that they usually strip threads after first attempt and fall off the wires.
I use the Wago 221's for the electrical outlet and switches upgrade in my house. I watched a very informative video last night and was pleased to find out that the Wago 221 is actually a push-in connector. I was flipping the levers up, which was a PITA for me. Very happy guy now.
@@jfbeam The metal helix or nut inside the better wire nuts is to assure better grip on the wires, and not necessarily for electrical contact. Even the plastic models without the spring helix are pressure type connectors, however, plastic is softer than metal, and is less reliable in the long run. Cheap wire nuts can loosen up more easily over time due to thermal expansion/contraction and vibrations. This is why the all-plastic nuts should not be used. Applying pressure to the wires causes friction, which helps to keep the wires from moving against each other. The metal inserts insure better friction grab on the wire bunch - they are not intended to contribute to the electrical connection. An exception would be the set-screw lugs in electrical panels. Friction (pressure) joins the wire to the lug, and the lug itself is treated as a conductor.
I use wire nuts in my trade, HVAC, it’s what the company provides and I pre twist because it is the way I was taught. I greatly appreciate this new knowledge regarding the topic.
@@robduncan7409 for HVAC not really needed. You work with a lot of small guage wire doing HVAC. The only cases where pre twisting is more or less required is with thick wire or many wires.
Im a dyi handy man, i understand the pretwisting history, I used it years ago, and was not the best at doing it; but I also believe the wire nut will do the 'work" as suggested so I'm glad to say this has been my practice for many years. As usual, I always learn from this type of video and will try the wago on my next upgrade if its all solid wire. Excellent video.
Sadly no. But I’ve used ilsco splice. Mac block is a good one for it. You’ll see them stamped cu-al and those accept both dissimilar material conductors
I tend to pre-twist. I do the pull test too. I do all of this as I feel I want to, as you said. see the wire twisted... know for sure it is twisted. Stranded is a pain and that always causes me to be more than super sure those are tight to the point I will solder sometimes in some situations. I have seen too many burned wire "nuts" from that stranded wire problem. Good on you for going deeply into that! I somewhat depend on colour to guide me but I always look inside the "nut" to make sure the coils look to be the correct size. Also a great point on colour being a misty problem from company to company. I haven't used the Wago's yet but I may in the coming week on a water heater project. I lived in Hillsborough NC for a long time and many of the homes there use knob and tube that still works! Piles of bird and squirrel skeletons next to the wires in the attics, but they still work. It is just a joy to see someone go into the simple stuff as that's where most thing fail. Nice Work!
Wow, what an excellent balanced video. No hype or opinions, just facts. I'm very interested in the push style connection longevity. All data I've seen shows them superior to lever style connections and in my experience they are also easier to work with and smaller in the box. So many people frown on them though due to their similarity to old style backstab connections but they use a different capture geometry and materials so I don't think it's a fair comparison. Sill I have my doubts. Nothing beats a wire nut done properly - unfortunately its so easy to do it improperly that many are.
I was always told in the past not to use stab connectors, including the ones that come with Can lights. I’m concerned that they can cause loose connections and arc fault issues.
DIY. Interesting video, no I did not know all those rules about putting wires together together etc. After living in Seattle for 22 years, I learned to put dielectric grease inside of all of my wire nuts anytime I was anywhere near moisture or outside type conditions. This would include a box inside the Attic.
Great video. I recently replaced all the light switches and some light fixtures in our new house. I like using push-in wire connectors because they're easy and provide a good connection. Some of the wires were braided, but I tinned them with my soldering iron. It's still a little difficult to get those wires into a wire connector, but I'd rather do that than use a wire nut. I only use a wire nut as a last resort and it amazes me they're still in use. I'd never heard of lever nuts before this video and would like to give them a try sometime. Thanks.
I know that tinned stranded wire is a no go in screw terminals because over time the tinned braid loses its shape and the connection becomes loose. I have no idea if the same would happen in a push in connector but it seems like a bad idea to me. Seems better to me to get something like the wago lever nut that is rated for stranded wire.
Thank you for your informative videos! Would it ever be appropriate to use ferrules-especially with untinned stranded wires bonded to solid copper with an Ideal push connector or Wago 221?
I twist wires before wire nut connection and suggest that everyone should- because it is difficult to start the wire nut and wires exactly at the same length- I just spent the better part of a week chasing down lose connections at a old house and all where do to three wires in one yellow wire nut that was not pre-twisted and one wire had came lose the other two had great connection- just a little twist will help keep the wires together as you twist the wire nut on.
I will ALWAYS be a pre- twister . I strip my wires at about 1 1/2", give them a good, strong, consistent twist, then cut to length. I do this for the mechanical aspect. I only use wire nuts to insulate the connection from everything else in the box. However, I will be using Delgada push-in connectors on my current project. I'm SO progressive. Lol :)
Wire nuts for the bulk of work but Wago for short wires, crowded boxes like with multiple pig tails and for rookies with solid & stranded wires. Since electricity flows through the outside of the wire, wire-nuts create a better high current connection that Wago due to contact area. They are both good tools that have there place they serve best.
I know electrical tap is not recommended on wire nuts, but I always heard it should be used to secure the nuts from future vibrations loosening the connection. As a serious DIYer, I enjoy the ease of use of the push in connectors mainly because they seem to take up less room in a box where there’s three or more lines coming in.
I just graduated from a community college apprentice electrician program. The master instructor said nutting two wires does not need a pre-twist; three or more you need to twist first. He is not a fan of push-in connectors. Ideal and other push-in brands state their products are okay for stranded wires. Where space is a premium, like in lamp fittings, connectors make sense.
DYI 3. I always pre-twist when possible that way I know they are connected, the wire nut goes on easier as well. Note, some cheap wire nuts (usually supplied with a fixture or electrical component) don't have copper or metal inside, toss those out and use better ones.
The metal helix inside the better wire nuts is to assure better grip on the wires, and not necessarily for electrical contact. Even the plastic models without the spring helix are pressure type connectors, however, plastic is softer than metal, and is less reliable in the long run. Cheap wire nuts can loosen up more easily over time due to thermal expansion/contraction and vibrations. This is why the all-plastic nuts should not be used.
Ideal makes a screwdriver with a wire-nut ratchet in the handle. I find it makes wire nuts much easier to use, although I have taken to using Wagos most of the time, now.
There have been many failures on push in connectors on old USA receptacles. But Wagos, at least, have a good track record in Europe. My guess is that it both has to do with quality of manufacture along with the fact that pushing USA receptacles into a box is difficult at times - which might result in some unwanted strain on the connections. Pushing a Wago into a box tends to be much easier, so I'd assume less strain results. But our lower 120 Volt circuits result in more current than in Europe, so several years of real-world reliability data over here will likely be needed to convince everyone.
Like Jason said, shoving a bunch of wires into a single gang box is hard at times, especially when it is all solid core wire jutting straight out the back of the receptacle. You end up work-hardening the copper nearest the outlet which will cause all sorts of problems if one of those wires breaks off. Other issues with backstabbing receptacles are: 1) Most people don't check the "strip length" guide on the receptacle and they end up with less wire than they need to make a solid connection. 2) The bad connection from #1 causes the metal of the stab-in connector to expand and contract over time, causing the wire to work itself loose. 3) This is REALLY over-simplified, but stab connections are held in place by a springy piece of metal. The connection is dependent on a very small contact area, which means the metal spring has to flex as the wire heats and cools, making work-hardening an issue (depending on the metal used). Wagos work so well because they rely on clamping force to make a solid connection (which is also true for screw terminals on receptacles). It doesn't matter if you heat it, tug on it, etc, that wire isn't going anywhere. Wagos are also made with clear plastic so you can inspect the connections just by looking inside the wago.
Push in's The single tensioner bar over time looses it's tension Therefore the wires are now in an *OPEN CIRCUIT* Meaning no electricity Start of failure At the beginning it will work only a few times Then it will stop working I've personally taken apart old push in outlet to find the failure, it's that tensioner Could you imagine troubleshooting push ins Did a bus bar break, did a wire break at the entry point, tensioner release it's grip No thanks Proof, how to fix a push in Open apart the housing to expose the guts There you will see what keeps the wires tight, It a copper tension bar I bend the tensioner to apply more/ original tension on the wire and it works *Never have this problem with twisted wires in wirenuts*
@@mansardmanor3869 We have also had those problems in Europe, the cause was the Ideal brand knockoff wago connectors! There is American quality control!
Great video! For the pre-twisting, there probably are a few wirenut manufacturers that disallow it, however, IDEAL, a major one in the U.S., says pre-twisting is acceptable. If the manufacturer is ok with it, I pre-twist. Most electricians I talked to pre-twist, especially after finding the non pre-twisted wires often fly out of the connector once it’s undone. That doesn’t happen with pre-twisting so I believe pre-twisting offers a stronger connection. I think it’s similar to the screws vs. backstab. Both are allowed, but electricians prefer to use the screws.
I'm a DIY with upwards of 50 years of experience, and I know that I am not a professional. When I know how to do something, I do it. When I don't know I either get educated on it or call in a pro. I've always used wire nuts because that's what my Daddy taught me from a very early age. I've always done the pull test to check my connections, and I've always twisted my wires. Sometimes I have found that a solid to stranded connection easily pulls loose, so I twist it even more and sometimes even go to a smaller wire nut. If I can't get this to work, I've occasionally gone to using electrical tape or even heat shrink tubing. Now I'll get some of the Wago products and try them out. I suppose every millennium I can learn something new!
Former Menards electrical department assistant manager: I knew about the not using with aluminum wire. But that was it on your ten things list that I knew. Always assumed the colors were standardized. I always have pre-twisted to try and make everything lineup even. I learned basic wiring as a teen from my dad. He also pre-twisted.
I live in a 50 year old house. The electrician used the push-in feature on all duplexes. The wires have backed out of some outlets. I'm retired, but will use the screws to connect wires and wire nuts to splice wires
When it comes to pre-twisting, I only do it with stranded wires, more than 2 12 awg wires, or more than 4 14 awg wires. I also twist enough so that I can let go off all the wires and they still stay together. Once I put the wire nut on, I then continue twisting past the exposed copper. And yes, I don't pretwist when joining stranded with solid. If it's multiple of both types, I pretwist solids together and stranded together then let the wire nut twist the two larger joints together.
I'am a "Professional", over 45 years, I'd say, for DIY, yes "Stab Loc" is better then wirenut's, as DIY, never line up conductors, to fully engage,on spring, as they NEVER, Twist, (I ALWAYS DO), Trained US NAVY & Old school Vocational Shop, learned all my "WESTERN UNION" splices, 10th Grade. Also I learned to tape wirenuts aboard ship, for vibration, salt air spray. As for lever, WACO, I've replaced cause of LC, bad manufacture.
Hi Charleton, thanks for the feedback and I agree with the majority of what you noted. Are you saying you think WAGO is a bad manufacturer? If so, can you provide more on your experience? Thx!
I am an electrical contractor. I may start using some lever Wagos. I don' like the push in because the are a pain to change. I am a pre-twist wire nut user that uses the Wagos that are pre-connected in the cans. However when doing commercial seasonal work for displays that are temporary I do not pre-twist wire nuts. I have used Wagos when the wires in a box are too short to work with.
DIY. I didn't know that tip about the stranded needing to extend .125" beyond the copper for wirenuts but I think that's the only thing other than the Murette alternate name for wirenut. I use the euro style connecters sometimes when there is no slack, no room in the wiring box and I'm basically standing on a ladder that barely gives me enough reach and can hardly see what I'm doing. They're convenient but I do have to wonder if they will fail down the road. If I have to redo them it's really gonna suck.
The Ideal push in connectors that I have list that you can use stranded wire with them. This is copied from their instructions. 12 to 16 AWG Str. (< 19 strands), 18 AWG Str. (7 strands)
I twist my wires and perfer marrettes (actual marrette brand as they use copper ) as i know the connection of the twist will hold together and make a good connection with out the nut so when the nut is in place it's doubling down on the connection. Also when I make splices in exterior location I put a little penetrox in the marrettes, helps keep the connections from oxidizing if moisture even happens to get into the box.
DIY 0. I am a widow and I have to do everything myself now as I do not trust what “professionals” Have tried to pull on me. So now I am trying to learn how to do stuff for myself
Tinting a wire can enable a stranded wire to go into a push-in connector. The issue with push-ins for stranded wire is GETTING it in; not so much as HOLDING it.
DIYer: 0 Suggest always tinning stranded wire. I wouldn't trust the connection otherwise. So keep a soldering iron handy. Big fan of the Wago 222s, bought a pack from Amazon some years ago and they come in hand in some cases. Also for wire nuts, I like to make sure the nut cuts or scores into the copper wires. That way I'm sure they are making a good permanent connection.
Soldering can cause issues if there is any flexing or vibration. Where the stranded wire enters into the solder, solder will wick into the wire making it stiff for a short section outside of the solid soldered section. Where the stranded wire is stiff and unsupported, flexing tends to work harden and break the wire.
@@rossrobinson7943 This logic is misapplied as in these cases the wires are in a service box and do not move. For cases where flexing is required, I would only use crimp terminals or crimp on ferrules. Make sense?
If you go to the Ideal web page and call up their spec sheet for the push in connector (www.idealind.com/content/dam/electrical/assets/WireTermination/WireConnectors/PushIn/InSure/InSureModels32%2033%2034%20SpecSheet.pdf) you will see that they ARE rated for stranded wire. Although, it has been my experience that it is much harder to get a good insertion with stranded wire. You have to pre-twist the strands pretty tight before insertion. Another option is to tin the stranded ends with solder and they work as well as solid wire. But that seems counter productive
I purchased some "generic" wago 123 on Amazon and some of my wire would not hold in it... I trashed a few that I could not achieve my pull test after wiring... used a different one and it was fine!! What are your recommendations? generic? brand name only? or maybe I did something wrong wiring it???
DIY2: just had a wire nut arc inside my 5 KW grid-tie inverter. Stranded-to-stranded 10 gauge THHN. It vaporized the wire nut and burned the insulation of nearby wires. The metal part of the wire nut then shorted to the grounded aluminum case and tripped it's 30 amp breaker. Replaced those wires with 8 gauge with no wire nuts. I'm going to buy some lever Wagos to replace all the wire nuts in that system.
If you're in a situation where your predecessor didn't leave a sufficient pigtail, it's practically impossible to use a wire nut. Push-in is the only way to go.
The ideal wire nuts that I prefer to use say on that packaging that they can be pre twisted. I pre twist so that if I need to take a nut off to probe the connection, the wires still stay together. If it’s just a temporary connection, then I don’t typically pre twist. Pre twisting also helps prevent one single wire from breaking off inside the connector.
In the UK we can get hold of both types . Years ago we used a porcelain screwit on the old lead cable this was the equivalent to your wire nut.. push in or lever type wago are mostly used in the UK. Not so much wire nuts.
I really like those wago connectors, but some say they do not provide a solid connection because only a small portion of the wire is making the connection compared to twist connectors were the entire portion of the wire is making solid connection.
Yeah, I understand where that type of comment is coming from but I am also fairly confident the busbar for the Wago’s is specifically design with a generous factor of error to carry the load.
I’ve been taught to twist over 40 years ago. I use wegos now. Only because I have arthritis now. Very little twisting now I’m still doing electrical work after 40 years and no problem And yes when I was younger and learning the trade. Stuff was soldered Wagos save me time. Just like “ pro press”in the plumbing trade. It still passes inspection It’s approved So be it
Excellent video! “Wire Nut” is a registered trade mark of Ideal Industries as of 1/22/63. For safety sake and for a good electrical connection, I always pre-twist my wires for now over 50 years without a problem.
Hey Bill, thanks for the call out on the trade mark I was not aware IDEAL had that locked up.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs You are most welcome. So companies are very protective about their names such as Xerox where they want to people to use the work "photocopy" a page. The word "aspirin" lost its trade mark protection because it become general vocabulary among people.
Then IDEAL needs to be suing a few thousand companies, because _everyone_ calls them "wire nut".
Two or three 14's and I don't pre-twist. Few 12's and you almost have to.
I found if you don’t pre-twist, sometimes one of the wires will pull out of the wire connector.
I don't know what manufacturer's instructions you've been reading, but all the ones I've read said pre-twisting permitted but not required. I always pre twist and I always will.
Thanks for sharing. The rule that caught my attention was putting the stranded wire a bit higher than the non-stranded wire when incorporating them both into a wire nut. That makes perfect sense and I can see where that would make a better, secure connection. Appreciate the tips.
Yep, that's the tip that I took away from this video too. It makes perfect sense -- the solid wire won't twist (and therefore won't shorten) but the stranded wire will. Great tip.
Just sane... :^) Saint
i already did that!
I discovered Wago and recently ran a 7 outlet switched circuit with them and I am sold on them, amazing connectors.
Both are great as long as they're done right, I had a service van for 4 years before I move to Industrial and I've seen issues with all kinds of connections. Biggest thing is when stripping the wire if you notice your stippers are ringing or marking the wire use the next larger gauge as I've seen far more wires breaking before the connections then a problem with the connections itself.
Once you go lever Wago, you’ll never go back. Not only can you test the connection but you can visually inspect them to verify the wires are in correctly. Also trouble shooting is so much easier as you pop a lever to isolate a line.
Wago are super expensive compared to a wire nut.
@@sampantiliano Exactly the reasoning why in the US there are so many call backs of failed products.
Can you use stranded wire with a lever Wago connection
@@markmarxman584 yes, you can AWG 24 - 12 Cu
That's also why I love the WAGO 221 series (2, 3 or 5 connections).
@@markmarxman584 Yes you can. See www.wago.com/us/wire-splicing-connectors/compact-splicing-connector/p/221-412
I’m happy you talked about it. Because as a professional i’m shocked wirenuts are still used in the states. Here in Belgium you can still buy them, but they have not been used anymore since the early 90’s. Just use Wago’s, all preassumptions are wrong.
You're _shocked_ huh? 😲 ⚡ 😄
@@cloudbase7799 I was over exaggerating.
@@syproful You over exaggerated, huh?
I am not a professional. I have been wiring up my home workshop and have found your videos to be very helpful. So far, I haven’t had any issues. Thank you.
Building Maintenance here. So glad I found you. Have watched several of your videos dealing with electrical items. You've answered a lot of questions that I've had over the years. I've always used wire nuts, usually with a pre-twist, but I'll be giving those Wago's a try soon. From reading some of the comments, it appears that they take up less room in a box so that's a big plus too. Thanks for sharing!
DIY 10 I learned something from everything you discussed. I rewired a duplex in Oakland, CA in the mid 1980's- all with permits - so it was done properly and to code. I completely remodeled the duplex including raising the foundation, adding a bedroom and bathroom, yet I still learned something from everything you discussed tonight. I am very glad I found you. I don't do much electrical anymore but still want to do my own work. Thanks for all your information. Mike
The wire nut instructions don't say that you shouldn't pre-twist, they just say that it isn't necessary- that's a big difference! In my opinion pre-twisting may not be necessary in new 14 gauge wire, but for 12 gauge solid wire (or thicker) at least it's a very good idea, as it's hard to get a thorough twist using only the wire nut
Pre-twisted hundreds of times (not an electrician, home DIYer), but now mostly non-pre-twist. Didn't know about the stranded 1/8" lead - very helpful! Thank you!
I'm dyi. Installed porch light with wire nut. No go, or at best - intermittent.
Used wago.....100 % on all the time.
I'm a DIYer from Scotland and here in the UK we've never used wire nuts it was always the old multiblock connectors that you could cut down to whatever size you needed,I use the Wago/Ideal push or lever style but after watching John Wards video on testing them out in a comparison to the cheaper Chinese copies of the grey with orange lever kind I now save money by not buying the more expensive ones and getting the cheaper make on Amazon,John's test showed that even at double the maximum voltage that our 240v domestic system supplies they reacted the exact same as the named brands,if you have not watched John Wards channel I highly recommend it.Another brilliant innovation to the electrical business is the Quickwire system,it is absolutely one of the best junction box/connectors I have seen especially if you are using loop in loop out and switching on your lighting circuits etc,really enjoy your videos even tho our UK components and wiring systems are slightly different from USA and Canada
A couple years ago I came across the Wago push-in connectors. Will not go back. But for mixing solid and stranded, like on light fixtures, will definitely be using the Lever Nuts.
DIY, former builder-didn't know the stranded wire 1/8" extended trick-what turned me to occasional Wago use-Thanks
Brilliant. A good lesson i learnt today. Thanks a lot.
I'm licensed but almost retired. The Ideal Twisters became my favorite connectors the past 30 years. I'll probably never use the wagos because I'm a dinosaur but, they look like they would be easier on your hands and wrists if you do a lot of repetitive work. Enjoyable video!
I’m a couple years behind you , but also a dinosaur.
I’ve used the wagos on a few job but they feel like the equivalent of backstabbing.
They are pretty easy though.
@@itaintrocketscience Except they have been proven to actually handle the current and not pop loose. I love Wago connectors and I hate backstabbing. Just don't buy the fake clones.
Great information as I am learning something from your perspective every time!
Great video. Thanks. I've never really ever been shown how to properly use a wire nut. I've kind of learned over 45 years of DIY experience but I still learned some new things in this video.
Thanks to one of your videos I learned about the Wago connectors. I had several wires coming together in a connection and I replaced the wire nuts with Wagos which helped simplify everything and looks better
DIY - 0
I use all three of the connectors you covered and think that each has its place and all are OK to use if you know how to use them. Your video covered the important aspects of their use in a clear and concise manner. Every DIYer should watch it before attempting to perform any high voltage wiring.
The one thing you didn’t mention about the Wago lever lock connectors is that you have to be careful when you stuff your wiring behind large devices like GFCI receptacles or WiFi switches that the lever(s) on the Wago connector block haven’t inadvertently contacted a wire or corner of the device and been forced open. I have had that happen to me in a couple of occasions. Fortunately when I tested the circuit before installing the cover plates I discovered the fault because the wire was completely withdrawn from the now open connector block. The problem with the large size devices is that their size forces you to stuff the wire more tightly into what little space is left in a shallow box. They also limit your ability to visualize the now open lever. If the wire was still positioned loosely within the connector block there is a risk of a high resistance or intermittent connection and potentially a fire hazard.
I just finished working with the Wago's for the first time and loved them. I felt the Wago was much easier to use in a crowded box. Wire nuts stiffen up when grouped together where the Wago's were much more likely to be less stiff like a single wire. I was changing to smart switches which take more room than the original sp switch. I still used the wire nuts for the neutral groups because there were more wires to that connection.
You can stick your tester lead in them on the front and on the back(special holes for it). You can and should visual check your connections through the transparant housing. Use them for your neutral aswel. The push in version exist up to 8 and the clamping one with lever up to 5. The ones with lever are better, but bigger and more expensive. In routine work you should use pushin version. Also check their range for connecting wires on DIN rails. Just like phoenix contact they are among the best.
Can you leave ports empty
Same issue, moving my house to smart switches. In some boxes I could not get the switch in until I switched to one of these push on connectors. Mostly because they're flat and I can push them to the back of the box. I gain just enough space over the Marrettes to get the switch in.
wagos are shit
@@kevinkeveney7896 Yes, unconnected ports are considered IP20, so no issue there.
Very timely for me!! I just installed a dimmer light that has stranded and also needs to tap into the neutral bundle in the box. I used push-in ilo wire nuts and triple-checked my connections but I was not feeling happy or confident while putting the switch plate back on. I stopped at Home Depot last night for a few extra supplies and already had plans to open it back up and re-do the mess in that box this week.
Nice, best of luck on round 2 👍
Great information! Thank you! I didn’t know to allow 1/8” for stranded wire or to not pre-twist. Huge fan. Of the Wagos!
The action of pre twisting can cause deep scores in the surface of the metal of the wire which if you are heavy handed will cause cross ways thin spots in the conductor & can cause a hot spot under heavy load because it essentially makes the wire too thin. It also makes the junction unspecified for UL or CSA ratings. It is why we do not use screw downs without a fixed contact buffer plate between the screw & the wire in it's insertion hole. The practice is literally the action of part cutting the wire strands...
DIY, tried out the WAGO 221 connectors because of you. Bought the 175 pack. I really wish I had them when we built this monster house back in 1996. Updated, and changing some dimmer switches, all the wire nuts came out, and WAGO 221 connectors were used.
Be glad you didnt have them.
Re #4, names for them: I'm in Eastern Ontario, Canada, and I've never heard of 'wire nuts' before this, they're all called 'marettes' here. That said, I'd never heard of the Wago connectors either, they aren't very common around here.
You're a wealth of knowledge and experience - thanks!
The WAGO connectors are quite easy to find and at a reasonable price. Does the word AMAZON ring a bell?
One you didn’t mention is the Marrette with the brass insert and set screw, inside the screw on cover. Sometimes found in older homes. Also worth mentioning is that the cheap wire nuts often included with electrical fixtures are one use only. I’ve found that they usually strip threads after first attempt and fall off the wires.
At about 4:05 into the video he does mention Marrette.
i have some here. been told its for places with vibrations...
Wire nuts are specifically single use items, so reusing is not in accordance to manufacturers specs.
In my area we say Wago with a long A sound. Here we not only use the lever nuts, but many Wago products.
Waug-O is more correct but unless a person knows Wag-O seems correct too.
I use the Wago 221's for the electrical outlet and switches upgrade in my house. I watched a very informative video last night and was pleased to find out that the Wago 221 is actually a push-in connector. I was flipping the levers up, which was a PITA for me. Very happy guy now.
Number 11 -- which I would talk about first -- is to explain HOW a wire nut holds onto wires.
The good ones have a tapered nut. The cheap ones use a spring. (the _really_ cheap ones are just plastic.)
@@jfbeam The metal helix or nut inside the better wire nuts is to assure better grip on the wires, and not necessarily for electrical contact. Even the plastic models without the spring helix are pressure type connectors, however, plastic is softer than metal, and is less reliable in the long run. Cheap wire nuts can loosen up more easily over time due to thermal expansion/contraction and vibrations. This is why the all-plastic nuts should not be used. Applying pressure to the wires causes friction, which helps to keep the wires from moving against each other. The metal inserts insure better friction grab on the wire bunch - they are not intended to contribute to the electrical connection. An exception would be the set-screw lugs in electrical panels. Friction (pressure) joins the wire to the lug, and the lug itself is treated as a conductor.
Very insightful videos bro... I'm an apprentice electrician & I love this video, it helps alot
I use wire nuts in my trade, HVAC, it’s what the company provides and I pre twist because it is the way I was taught. I greatly appreciate this new knowledge regarding the topic.
its bad info, you should still pretwist, im a professional electrician
@@robduncan7409 for HVAC not really needed. You work with a lot of small guage wire doing HVAC. The only cases where pre twisting is more or less required is with thick wire or many wires.
U must twist the wires. Far far better than any wago or push in.
@@RadioRich100 How do you know? How can we tell?
Im a dyi handy man, i understand the pretwisting history, I used it years ago, and was not the best at doing it; but I also believe the wire nut will do the 'work" as suggested so I'm glad to say this has been my practice for many years. As usual, I always learn from this type of video and will try the wago on my next upgrade if its all solid wire. Excellent video.
Can the Wago be utilized with aluminum? (DIY)
I've also been utilizing oxidizing paste in my connections for Al -> Cu with wire nuts in my home.
Sadly no. But I’ve used ilsco splice. Mac block is a good one for it. You’ll see them stamped cu-al and those accept both dissimilar material conductors
@@Realmisterwolf thank you for this information.
A suitable Polaris connector would be my first choice, but Ideal makes a CU/AL special wirenut as a second choice.
@@steveloux4709 Polaris and ilsco make identical tap/splice connectors
Regarding stranded wiring and push in connector. Can you twist and solder the stranded for use in the connector?
I tend to pre-twist. I do the pull test too. I do all of this as I feel I want to, as you said. see the wire twisted... know for sure it is twisted. Stranded is a pain and that always causes me to be more than super sure those are tight to the point I will solder sometimes in some situations. I have seen too many burned wire "nuts" from that stranded wire problem. Good on you for going deeply into that! I somewhat depend on colour to guide me but I always look inside the "nut" to make sure the coils look to be the correct size. Also a great point on colour being a misty problem from company to company. I haven't used the Wago's yet but I may in the coming week on a water heater project. I lived in Hillsborough NC for a long time and many of the homes there use knob and tube that still works! Piles of bird and squirrel skeletons next to the wires in the attics, but they still work. It is just a joy to see someone go into the simple stuff as that's where most thing fail. Nice Work!
Wow, what an excellent balanced video. No hype or opinions, just facts. I'm very interested in the push style connection longevity. All data I've seen shows them superior to lever style connections and in my experience they are also easier to work with and smaller in the box. So many people frown on them though due to their similarity to old style backstab connections but they use a different capture geometry and materials so I don't think it's a fair comparison. Sill I have my doubts. Nothing beats a wire nut done properly - unfortunately its so easy to do it improperly that many are.
You can use stranded wire with push-in connectors IF you tin the wire with solder first.
Good point, thanks!
Much easier and faster just to use the Wago Lever Nuts
Great video! As a A/C tech, I have always let the nut twist the wires.
Wagos for the win. I’ve had to replace so many wire nuts over the years with these, especially at luminaries with stranded.
Agree, that is where I find the most common failures as well.
I was always told in the past not to use stab connectors, including the ones that come with Can lights. I’m concerned that they can cause loose connections and arc fault issues.
DIY. Interesting video, no I did not know all those rules about putting wires together together etc. After living in Seattle for 22 years, I learned to put dielectric grease inside of all of my wire nuts anytime I was anywhere near moisture or outside type conditions. This would include a box inside the Attic.
Must be a mess to work on after you.🤣
Great video. I recently replaced all the light switches and some light fixtures in our new house. I like using push-in wire connectors because they're easy and provide a good connection. Some of the wires were braided, but I tinned them with my soldering iron. It's still a little difficult to get those wires into a wire connector, but I'd rather do that than use a wire nut. I only use a wire nut as a last resort and it amazes me they're still in use. I'd never heard of lever nuts before this video and would like to give them a try sometime. Thanks.
I know that tinned stranded wire is a no go in screw terminals because over time the tinned braid loses its shape and the connection becomes loose. I have no idea if the same would happen in a push in connector but it seems like a bad idea to me. Seems better to me to get something like the wago lever nut that is rated for stranded wire.
Thank you for your informative videos!
Would it ever be appropriate to use ferrules-especially with untinned stranded wires bonded to solid copper with an Ideal push connector or Wago 221?
I twist wires before wire nut connection and suggest that everyone should- because it is difficult to start the wire nut and wires exactly at the same length- I just spent the better part of a week chasing down lose connections at a old house and all where do to three wires in one yellow wire nut that was not pre-twisted and one wire had came lose the other two had great connection- just a little twist will help keep the wires together as you twist the wire nut on.
I recommend splicing your wires together and then twisting your wire nuts on. More secure connection
I will ALWAYS be a pre- twister . I strip my wires at about 1 1/2", give them a good, strong, consistent twist, then cut to length. I do this for the mechanical aspect. I only use wire nuts to insulate the connection from everything else in the box.
However, I will be using Delgada push-in connectors on my current project.
I'm SO progressive.
Lol :)
Great channel. I'm glad I found you :)
Wire nuts for the bulk of work but Wago for short wires, crowded boxes like with multiple pig tails and for rookies with solid & stranded wires. Since electricity flows through the outside of the wire, wire-nuts create a better high current connection that Wago due to contact area. They are both good tools that have there place they serve best.
Always thankful for your videos and helpful comments. Does Wago make a connector that is Feasible to both solid core and strand wiring?
Surprised by not pre-twisting for wirenuts.
Why? It tells you not to do that on the bag they come in...
@@AnonyMous-lk7zi I see an assortment on Amazon right now that shows twisting before putting on the nut.
@@oldmanjimh3165 well then obviously for *those* nuts, you pre-twist....
I know electrical tap is not recommended on wire nuts, but I always heard it should be used to secure the nuts from future vibrations loosening the connection. As a serious DIYer, I enjoy the ease of use of the push in connectors mainly because they seem to take up less room in a box where there’s three or more lines coming in.
I just graduated from a community college apprentice electrician program. The master instructor said nutting two wires does not need a pre-twist; three or more you need to twist first. He is not a fan of push-in connectors. Ideal and other push-in brands state their products are okay for stranded wires. Where space is a premium, like in lamp fittings, connectors make sense.
DYI 3.
I always pre-twist when possible that way I know they are connected, the wire nut goes on easier as well. Note, some cheap wire nuts (usually supplied with a fixture or electrical component) don't have copper or metal inside, toss those out and use better ones.
The metal helix inside the better wire nuts is to assure better grip on the wires, and not necessarily for electrical contact. Even the plastic models without the spring helix are pressure type connectors, however, plastic is softer than metal, and is less reliable in the long run. Cheap wire nuts can loosen up more easily over time due to thermal expansion/contraction and vibrations. This is why the all-plastic nuts should not be used.
Great info and vocabulary 👍 👌
Ideal makes a screwdriver with a wire-nut ratchet in the handle. I find it makes wire nuts much easier to use, although I have taken to using Wagos most of the time, now.
What should I use to connect solid wire to string wire? Wire nuts or Wago? You mentioned that not to use push-in one.
Do you think lever nuts are good in automotive DC situations as well. Thanks for the video.
I often hear that backstabbing a receptacle is bad so why would push-in connectors be better?
There have been many failures on push in connectors on old USA receptacles. But Wagos, at least, have a good track record in Europe. My guess is that it both has to do with quality of manufacture along with the fact that pushing USA receptacles into a box is difficult at times - which might result in some unwanted strain on the connections. Pushing a Wago into a box tends to be much easier, so I'd assume less strain results. But our lower 120 Volt circuits result in more current than in Europe, so several years of real-world reliability data over here will likely be needed to convince everyone.
Like Jason said, shoving a bunch of wires into a single gang box is hard at times, especially when it is all solid core wire jutting straight out the back of the receptacle. You end up work-hardening the copper nearest the outlet which will cause all sorts of problems if one of those wires breaks off. Other issues with backstabbing receptacles are:
1) Most people don't check the "strip length" guide on the receptacle and they end up with less wire than they need to make a solid connection.
2) The bad connection from #1 causes the metal of the stab-in connector to expand and contract over time, causing the wire to work itself loose.
3) This is REALLY over-simplified, but stab connections are held in place by a springy piece of metal. The connection is dependent on a very small contact area, which means the metal spring has to flex as the wire heats and cools, making work-hardening an issue (depending on the metal used).
Wagos work so well because they rely on clamping force to make a solid connection (which is also true for screw terminals on receptacles). It doesn't matter if you heat it, tug on it, etc, that wire isn't going anywhere. Wagos are also made with clear plastic so you can inspect the connections just by looking inside the wago.
@@docferringer Glad for the details.
Push in's
The single tensioner bar over time looses it's tension
Therefore the wires are now in an *OPEN CIRCUIT*
Meaning no electricity
Start of failure
At the beginning it will work only a few times
Then it will stop working
I've personally taken apart old push in outlet to find the failure, it's that tensioner
Could you imagine troubleshooting push ins
Did a bus bar break, did a wire break at the entry point, tensioner release it's grip
No thanks
Proof, how to fix a push in
Open apart the housing to expose the guts
There you will see what keeps the wires tight,
It a copper tension bar
I bend the tensioner to apply more/ original tension on the wire and it works
*Never have this problem with twisted wires in wirenuts*
@@mansardmanor3869 We have also had those problems in Europe, the cause was the Ideal brand knockoff wago connectors! There is American quality control!
Great video!
For the pre-twisting, there probably are a few wirenut manufacturers that disallow it, however, IDEAL, a major one in the U.S., says pre-twisting is acceptable. If the manufacturer is ok with it, I pre-twist. Most electricians I talked to pre-twist, especially after finding the non pre-twisted wires often fly out of the connector once it’s undone. That doesn’t happen with pre-twisting so I believe pre-twisting offers a stronger connection. I think it’s similar to the screws vs. backstab. Both are allowed, but electricians prefer to use the screws.
Good analogy.
what he said
#2 was a good tip👌🏽
I usually twist before applying the wire nut. It make scene not to. Great valuable information
i'll twist slightly just to help keep the ends together as i'm moving my hands around
Im going to be using the 2773 wago push ins. Tried with stranded wife very Hard to take out and its a one use only type
I'm a DIY with upwards of 50 years of experience, and I know that I am not a professional. When I know how to do something, I do it. When I don't know I either get educated on it or call in a pro. I've always used wire nuts because that's what my Daddy taught me from a very early age. I've always done the pull test to check my connections, and I've always twisted my wires. Sometimes I have found that a solid to stranded connection easily pulls loose, so I twist it even more and sometimes even go to a smaller wire nut. If I can't get this to work, I've occasionally gone to using electrical tape or even heat shrink tubing. Now I'll get some of the Wago products and try them out. I suppose every millennium I can learn something new!
Former Menards electrical department assistant manager: I knew about the not using with aluminum wire. But that was it on your ten things list that I knew. Always assumed the colors were standardized.
I always have pre-twisted to try and make everything lineup even. I learned basic wiring as a teen from my dad. He also pre-twisted.
I live in a 50 year old house. The electrician used the push-in feature on all duplexes. The wires have backed out of some outlets. I'm retired, but will use the screws to connect wires and wire nuts to splice wires
When it comes to pre-twisting, I only do it with stranded wires, more than 2 12 awg wires, or more than 4 14 awg wires. I also twist enough so that I can let go off all the wires and they still stay together. Once I put the wire nut on, I then continue twisting past the exposed copper. And yes, I don't pretwist when joining stranded with solid. If it's multiple of both types, I pretwist solids together and stranded together then let the wire nut twist the two larger joints together.
I'am a "Professional", over 45 years, I'd say, for DIY, yes "Stab Loc" is better then wirenut's, as DIY, never line up conductors, to fully engage,on spring, as they NEVER, Twist, (I ALWAYS DO), Trained US NAVY & Old school Vocational Shop, learned all my "WESTERN UNION" splices, 10th Grade. Also I learned to tape wirenuts aboard ship, for vibration, salt air spray. As for lever, WACO, I've replaced cause of LC, bad manufacture.
Hi Charleton, thanks for the feedback and I agree with the majority of what you noted. Are you saying you think WAGO is a bad manufacturer? If so, can you provide more on your experience? Thx!
I am an electrical contractor. I may start using some lever Wagos. I don' like the push in because the are a pain to change. I am a pre-twist wire nut user that uses the Wagos that are pre-connected in the cans. However when doing commercial seasonal work for displays that are temporary I do not pre-twist wire nuts. I have used Wagos when the wires in a box are too short to work with.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge and great videos !!
DIY. I didn't know that tip about the stranded needing to extend .125" beyond the copper for wirenuts but I think that's the only thing other than the Murette alternate name for wirenut. I use the euro style connecters sometimes when there is no slack, no room in the wiring box and I'm basically standing on a ladder that barely gives me enough reach and can hardly see what I'm doing. They're convenient but I do have to wonder if they will fail down the road. If I have to redo them it's really gonna suck.
Seems like Germany swears by the Wago’s and I feel confident they will hold up. Guess time will tell. Thanks for the feedback.
Very helpful as usual. Thank you!
Great video
The Ideal push in connectors that I have list that you can use stranded wire with them. This is copied from their instructions. 12 to 16 AWG Str. (< 19 strands), 18 AWG Str. (7 strands)
You said push connectors not good for stranded wire. Does that apply to lever connectors?
Nope the Wago 221 works for stranded and solid copper wire.
I twist my wires and perfer marrettes (actual marrette brand as they use copper ) as i know the connection of the twist will hold together and make a good connection with out the nut so when the nut is in place it's doubling down on the connection. Also when I make splices in exterior location I put a little penetrox in the marrettes, helps keep the connections from oxidizing if moisture even happens to get into the box.
DIY 0. I am a widow and I have to do everything myself now as I do not trust what “professionals” Have tried to pull on me. So now I am trying to learn how to do stuff for myself
Awesome, thanks for the feedback and way to take on the projects yourself 👍
We're not all bad 🙂
When is a 'professional' not a 'professional'? When one does a job for me.
I pre twist if I have more than two conductors.
Tinting a wire can enable a stranded wire to go into a push-in connector. The issue with push-ins for stranded wire is GETTING it in; not so much as HOLDING it.
DIYer: 0 Suggest always tinning stranded wire. I wouldn't trust the connection otherwise. So keep a soldering iron handy. Big fan of the Wago 222s, bought a pack from Amazon some years ago and they come in hand in some cases. Also for wire nuts, I like to make sure the nut cuts or scores into the copper wires. That way I'm sure they are making a good permanent connection.
Soldering can cause issues if there is any flexing or vibration. Where the stranded wire enters into the solder, solder will wick into the wire making it stiff for a short section outside of the solid soldered section. Where the stranded wire is stiff and unsupported, flexing tends to work harden and break the wire.
@@rossrobinson7943 This logic is misapplied as in these cases the wires are in a service box and do not move. For cases where flexing is required, I would only use crimp terminals or crimp on ferrules. Make sense?
Thanks for the feedback Chris.
Thank you for this video! I learned so much! I'm a DIY 6.
Was a pre twist guy but not so much now. Mainly it made it more difficult in case I had to go back in and separate them for some reason.
I like the twist nuts. They work and are proven over time. And they cost much less
True and true. Thanks for the feedback.
When joining a pair of stranded wires, it would not be necessary to have one a1/8 longer than the other, for a wire nut, right?
push in connector are ok with stranded wires if you pre crimp them in a metal sleeve
If you go to the Ideal web page and call up their spec sheet for the push in connector (www.idealind.com/content/dam/electrical/assets/WireTermination/WireConnectors/PushIn/InSure/InSureModels32%2033%2034%20SpecSheet.pdf) you will see that they ARE rated for stranded wire. Although, it has been my experience that it is much harder to get a good insertion with stranded wire. You have to pre-twist the strands pretty tight before insertion. Another option is to tin the stranded ends with solder and they work as well as solid wire. But that seems counter productive
I purchased some "generic" wago 123 on Amazon and some of my wire would not hold in it... I trashed a few that I could not achieve my pull test after wiring... used a different one and it was fine!! What are your recommendations? generic? brand name only? or maybe I did something wrong wiring it???
Never knew about the recommendation against using wire nuts near motors (like AC fan motors) or the like. Good to know.
Very down to earth discussion. DIY2
DIY2: just had a wire nut arc inside my 5 KW grid-tie inverter. Stranded-to-stranded 10 gauge THHN. It vaporized the wire nut and burned the insulation of nearby wires. The metal part of the wire nut then shorted to the grounded aluminum case and tripped it's 30 amp breaker. Replaced those wires with 8 gauge with no wire nuts. I'm going to buy some lever Wagos to replace all the wire nuts in that system.
If you're in a situation where your predecessor didn't leave a sufficient pigtail, it's practically impossible to use a wire nut. Push-in is the only way to go.
The ideal wire nuts that I prefer to use say on that packaging that they can be pre twisted. I pre twist so that if I need to take a nut off to probe the connection, the wires still stay together. If it’s just a temporary connection, then I don’t typically pre twist. Pre twisting also helps prevent one single wire from breaking off inside the connector.
In the UK we can get hold of both types . Years ago we used a porcelain screwit on the old lead cable this was the equivalent to your wire nut.. push in or lever type wago are mostly used in the UK. Not so much wire nuts.
Another great video, thanks
I really like those wago connectors, but some say they do not provide a solid connection because only a small portion of the wire is making the connection compared to twist connectors were the entire portion of the wire is making solid connection.
Yeah, I understand where that type of comment is coming from but I am also fairly confident the busbar for the Wago’s is specifically design with a generous factor of error to carry the load.
Look up 'Western Union Splice'.
That is still used in some places/applications even today.
I’ve been taught to twist over 40 years ago. I use wegos now. Only because I have arthritis now. Very little twisting now
I’m still doing electrical work after 40 years and no problem
And yes when I was younger and learning the trade. Stuff was soldered
Wagos save me time. Just like “ pro press”in the plumbing trade.
It still passes inspection
It’s approved
So be it
Can you have empty ports when using push in connectors