Back in 2017 Mike Waldt did an excellent video on how to use these taps in order to make any number of glue blocks. I have an old Nova 3000 lathe converted to variable speed and it works well and does have a spindle lock. I have been using the Beall tap for some time to make numerous glue blocks and it works really well and is very simple to use. Now what if you do not have a spindle lock well you will have some way to hold the spindle when you have to remove the chuck this is done by using a spanner on the spindle. If you use a rare earth magnet to hold the spanner in place against the lathe and have it tight against the lathe bed then it will be locked in place. Now the matter of the expensive drill bit. I use a 28mm flat drill bit that fits my tap size, Now in the video the m33 tap says you need a drill bit of 29.5mm (expensive ) Now this hole does not have to be perfect as long as its not too large. My suggestion would be to buy a 30mm flat drill bit cost about £3.50 and grind a fraction off each side to bring it to size. By using these glue blocks you do not need to be using expensive faceplates and you can remove an object from the lathe still attached to the lathe to be remounted later. I always use softwood to make these and after cutting the thread put in some thin superglue on the threads and when dry run the tap through again.
I’ve made a few wooden morse taper “tools” for my lathe. I mounted a 7 mm drill bit in one for drilling pen blanks, mostly to see if it would work. It did and appears to be every bit as accurate as using my Jacobs chuck. I also made a couple to work as a pen press. The one that goes in the headstock has a steel mandrel for centring the pen components and a pusher to go in the tail stock quill…again, works very well. I’ve also recently tried my hand at making bottle stoppers. Again a Morse taper, drilled to take an 8 mm threaded insert compatible with the stopper kits I bought. I know these things are relatively cheap but so am I and I enjoy making my own tools. I hope some of your other viewers post their own ideas so that I can “borrow” them.
I use the old trick of gluing an M33 nut into a block which can then be used for all sorts of projects and recycled over and over again. Ideal for larger things like sanding disks
Great video Jon. I did look at buying one of the taps but came to the same conclusion s you, too much messing about to get it to work. I bought a few nuts that would screw onto the spindle and fitted them into some wood as jam chucks etc. Take care Jon. Cheers, Huw
Yes we looked at that option too but the big nuts aren't cheap either these days we could only find them at around £10 - so £15 for a dedicated part seemed the way to go. I confess I have never been keen on gluing stuff - lack of trust with the chemicals probably. Cheers Huw.
Good points regarding the tap. I think the easiest is just to buy some m33 nuts though and epoxy them into a piece of timber you then turn down to what you need. Reusable as well.
I think I lost my response... It's easier with a tap follower. This is a spring loaded tap guide. You mount it in the Jacob's chuck. With tailstock it puts pressure on the tap. That hole is for the guide. As with metal, you make some threads, then reverse to clear swarf. Use thin super glue on the new threads. I have 3 sizes. The 3/4" x 10tpi is for the Oneway and clone live centers...
I had not heard of these I confess - what a shame the manufacturers who sell the taps don't use them either ! It is however yet another tool taking the price for the whole lot here in the UK to over £80. Cheaper & easier to buy a ready made one or even 5 of them.
Back in 2017 Mike Waldt did an excellent video on how to use these taps in order to make any number of glue blocks. I have an old Nova 3000 lathe converted to variable speed and it works well and does have a spindle lock. I have been using the Beall tap for some time to make numerous glue blocks and it works really well and is very simple to use. Now what if you do not have a spindle lock well you will have some way to hold the spindle when you have to remove the chuck this is done by using a spanner on the spindle. If you use a rare earth magnet to hold the spanner in place against the lathe and have it tight against the lathe bed then it will be locked in place. Now the matter of the expensive drill bit. I use a 28mm flat drill bit that fits my tap size, Now in the video the m33 tap says you need a drill bit of 29.5mm (expensive ) Now this hole does not have to be perfect as long as its not too large. My suggestion would be to buy a 30mm flat drill bit cost about £3.50 and grind a fraction off each side to bring it to size. By using these glue blocks you do not need to be using expensive faceplates and you can remove an object from the lathe still attached to the lathe to be remounted later. I always use softwood to make these and after cutting the thread put in some thin superglue on the threads and when dry run the tap through again.
I’ve made a few wooden morse taper “tools” for my lathe. I mounted a 7 mm drill bit in one for drilling pen blanks, mostly to see if it would work. It did and appears to be every bit as accurate as using my Jacobs chuck. I also made a couple to work as a pen press. The one that goes in the headstock has a steel mandrel for centring the pen components and a pusher to go in the tail stock quill…again, works very well. I’ve also recently tried my hand at making bottle stoppers. Again a Morse taper, drilled to take an 8 mm threaded insert compatible with the stopper kits I bought. I know these things are relatively cheap but so am I and I enjoy making my own tools. I hope some of your other viewers post their own ideas so that I can “borrow” them.
I use the old trick of gluing an M33 nut into a block which can then be used for all sorts of projects and recycled over and over again. Ideal for larger things like sanding disks
Thanks matey...nice one
Great video Jon.
I did look at buying one of the taps but came to the same conclusion s you, too much messing about to get it to work.
I bought a few nuts that would screw onto the spindle and fitted them into some wood as jam chucks etc.
Take care Jon.
Cheers, Huw
Yes we looked at that option too but the big nuts aren't cheap either these days we could only find them at around £10 - so £15 for a dedicated part seemed the way to go. I confess I have never been keen on gluing stuff - lack of trust with the chemicals probably. Cheers Huw.
Good points regarding the tap. I think the easiest is just to buy some m33 nuts though and epoxy them into a piece of timber you then turn down to what you need. Reusable as well.
I forgot the drill size is 1/8" less than tap. I.E. 1 1/4" uses 1 1/8" drill. I use a forstner bit. 1" uses 7/8" drill bit. 3/4" uses 5/8" drill bit.
1/8" = 3.175mm , take that from 33mm = 29.825 - I don't have one that size 😒
@@prokraftukand you wont get one that size either! If you know the pitch you deduct the pitch from the diameter, thats the drill size.
I think I lost my response... It's easier with a tap follower. This is a spring loaded tap guide. You mount it in the Jacob's chuck. With tailstock it puts pressure on the tap. That hole is for the guide. As with metal, you make some threads, then reverse to clear swarf.
Use thin super glue on the new threads. I have 3 sizes. The 3/4" x 10tpi is for the Oneway and clone live centers...
I had not heard of these I confess - what a shame the manufacturers who sell the taps don't use them either ! It is however yet another tool taking the price for the whole lot here in the UK to over £80. Cheaper & easier to buy a ready made one or even 5 of them.
Do you's have any small 40mm r 50mm round Brass photo frames. Thanks
No sorry we used to do a photo frame kit - nobody wanted them!
@@prokraftuk thanks
Metric diameter minus’s the thread pitch = tapping drill size. 33-3 =30
33-3.5 = 29.5 , the pitch is 3.5 not 3.0!