How to Build: Nenon, Toa of Psionics
Вставка
- Опубліковано 18 вер 2024
- A psionic Toa born in the Post-Reformation who found it increasingly difficult to give a fuck. And eventually stopped.
Full bio: rb.gy/61a0fw
More images: rb.gy/i0z4cj
Parts list: rb.gy/e6d5df
Stud.io file (*substituted parts in purple): rb.gy/hgdhly
"Niretta's Mask of Serenity" by Onuku and Toa-Niretta: rb.gy/y3kwsq
All mocs feature spray paint from Rustoleum's 2x line.
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Instagram: / wholesomegadunka
Flickr: www.flickr.com...
Reddit: / submitted
It's... *sniff* it's beautiful...
I'm in love with that ring of Mahri blades. You incorporate system into your MOCs so well!
Thanks man~ The humble 2 holed plate seriously needs more love.
Art. Pure art. Such a solid build, something I could never make myself
I came here to get torso ideas outside the Metru torso, bc your custom designs are some of my favorites.
This is my first time seeing this build. Imagine my surprise when the vid started 😂
Lmao. Tbh, this entire moc was done essentially on a dare to myself because I hate moccing with the metru torso. Hence a build that does everything in its power to hide it ;P
@@wholesomegadunka2811 Well played, man. Well played. 😂
This moc is the stuff I live for. A super complex yet oddly satisfying build, gorgeous colors, custom paint and greebles all on top of a Metru skeleton. This moc absolutely rules and might beat out your Nikila as my favorite of your builds. Spot on man!
Thank you!
4:28 ah, I really wish those triple connector parts actually existed in pearl gold...
Amazing work with unique style and level of detailing is totally on another level.
Ahhhh Bionicle, it one of those things that just hits different. 😎
Boy does it.
@@wholesomegadunka2811
When it came to the mask for this model, did you buy it like that or paint it? I went to the link, and it got me thinking about potentially trying out this build. How much would something like this cost in total?
@@zacharyvance2365 That’s paint. The two tone look was inspired purely by the creator’s white and grey render you see on the shapeways page, but whatever you order will only come in one solid color. (Bought this one in “smooth fine detail plastic” for the material fyi, it’s almost indistinguishable from lego quality)
I started by spraying painting the dark blue base, then hand painted the gold accents with a paint pen. Also I should include that I plugged up the little mouth hole on the original mask with epoxy putty before painting. It’s a small optional detail, but I really hate useless mouth holes on masks.
@@zacharyvance2365 As for cost… I wish I could give a better answer but it really depends. Are you buying all or most parts from scratch or do you have most already? Where you planning on buying from? And what country do you live in?
Minus the mask, and assuming you can shop all the pieces in one store, I’d imagine roughly you could buy all of it under $40. I don’t think the moc uses any particularly expensive pieces.
@@wholesomegadunka2811
Thanks for the details. $40 is definitely doable. If I built something like this I’d go to BrickLink and my personal collection. I’ve been to shapways before, I love their selection of masks. I always admired builders who could come up with creative ways to use Bionicle and technic parts.
damm i'm already ordering parts for your other build now i want to build this too :D
Its beautiful... i have looked at this for hours now
Какая же красивая самоделка! Желаю дальнейшего успеха в этом деле
oh nah its looking so good, i really like this
Damn this is crazy
Yup INSPIRED, most definitely gonna start making my own mods now!!!! ❤❤❤❤❤
@14:57 WTF I had no idea you could fit studs into the side of a ball joint connector like that. That's game changing.
You’ll want to cycle through all combinations of your sockets and plates to get the 2 that stick the tightest. A lot of them are pretty precarious but eventually you’ll find the ones that work. Even then, I wouldn’t recommend it for much else. It’s a brittle connection and it only works as hands in my mocs because im not putting any actual stress on the fingers when the hand “holds” a weapon, its all in that axle hole instead. There’s a reason why I left the usual hand design for my contest entry artakha.
I wish I had as many parts and building skills as you
loooovelyyyy
Dang...
Класс!
Can we see a how to feminine bionicle body guide?
That is an idea I’ve been thinking about, maybe wrapping that into some broader topics of moccing discussion in future videos sometime. But before I put my voice into these I want to get a basic mic setup that won’t make people’s ears bleed. I don’t know yet, we’ll see.
I LOVE IT. Great work as always. Do you have any plans on making a video on the 2 matorans build you posted on reddit?
Thanks! I’m not planning on building the matoran on camera but I did put up a stud.io file recreation for download to see how it’s built. If you check my comment on the reddit post or the original thread on ttv you’ll find the link. If you’re not familiar with studio, it’s a digital lego building program that I highly recommend. A lot of my recent mocs tend to come with studio replicas for download.
@@wholesomegadunka2811 thank you fot answering! Il check it right now!
Did you spray painted the peices or you got it on bricklink?
Spray. If you see anything on this channel, there's spray paint.
How do you go about spray painting your parts?
I don’t really have a concise way of explaining everything about how I spray paint but I did answer pretty much the same question at length on flickr before. It’s kinda long but I’m just gonna copy and paste what I replied there:
1. Standard spray paint practice - Shake vigorously before use, spray a foot away or so. Too close and you'll drench parts, leaving uneven globs and drip marks. Too far and your paint might partly dry in midair, leaving a rough sandy texture. Don't stay on any one part too long. I prefer short pumps rather than holding down the nozzle and just moving from line to line. With regards to primer, I use Rustoleum's "2x" line of paints that includes a primer in them. However, I noticed that's not enough for very bright colored paints and especially white - I find you're still be able to see some hint of the original color underneath. So when I intend to use yellow, orange, or white spray paint, I first lay down a separate white primer (also from Rustoleum). But for all other colors, a separate primer is unnecessary.
2. Setup - I have aluminum foil covered cardboard panels laid over a tarp. One panel for one color. The foil I'll replace between sessions. Set up either in a garage like area with the door open or outside on a non-windy day. Have a fan blow over your pieces after spraying and you'll cut the dry-to-touch time in half.
3 - Laying parts - Most pieces are heavy enough to lay down by themselves without being blown away by the spray. Aim straight down for most of the paint, angle toward the sides from a little farther away to prevent pieces from moving. For pieces you find too small to leave by themselves (claw pieces, minifig arms, small system parts etc) you can put masking tape upside down on your board and tape the ends. Adhere the small parts to the upside down part of the tape and paint. Additionally you can use disposable lego pieces as scaffolding to hold them down too. For example, for anything with a clip like minifig arms, exo force arms, etc I'll attach them to spare 3mm flex tubes or any disposable lego piece with a bar before painting. Those 3mm flex tubes are pretty reusable and can be cleaned easily after the paint is dry. Pieces ending in a small bar like horns and minifig claws can be put into the tops of technic bricks, you know the ones with pinholes on the sides and studs on top that have small holes in them. I have too many that I never use for anything.
4 - You can flip over pieces when they're dry to the touch, around 20 min with a fan, longer without one. If you avoided over soaking them in paint, they should pick off your board easily and not stick to the surface when you flip them over. You can replace the foil if you want, but I find it's not necessary. Not every piece will need to be painted front and back, but for the ones that do, consider leaving their "good side" for last. For example, let's say you're painting some prefab armor piece that needs to be painted front and back. The front is what you'll see more of on the moc, so to avoid the potential for any paint marks or irregularities from picking it off the board when dry make sure to paint the back first, THEN the front. That way the front will never be in contact with a surface while its paint is drying. For other pieces where front and back don't matter like liftarms, well, it doesn't matter.
5 - Handling - Like I said, parts will be dry to the touch in about 20 or 30 min BUT you won't want to stress them with your bare hands until they're completely dry or else you'll see smudges and fingerprints. I usually wait a day or two after painting, but you can handle them much sooner so long as you're wearing some kind of plastic or vinyl gloves. Even with that though I'll still tend to wait a day.
6 - Finally, things you CAN'T paint - Ball joints. You really don't want paint gunking up the inside of joints or really any part that moves in contact with another part. I cover the joint ends of limbs with masking tape. I also cover the inside of sockets with a thin strip of masking tape that I lay inside the contact area. Now this can limit what you do to prefab limbs and hips. You probably don't want a painted red metru leg or hip with exposed green ball joints. For me, I'll either pick a limb with the closest color to my intended paint or I'll start with neutral color for the base like a black or grey limb. I find that having an exposed black or grey ball joint can be passed off much easier if it has to be. You also want to avoid painting long bars or axles - these types of pieces have to slide through fairly tight fits and that will both gunk up the inside of the piece they're going into as well as scrape off all the paint on the part itself. And of course, there's no paint substitute for trans colored pieces so those you'll always have to get yourself.
Hope that helps.
@@wholesomegadunka2811 thanks for the info!
Where did you get the mask from shape ways
Check the description
Is it a female character?
Not being a creep or anything just asking
I don’t think that’s being a creep...?
Psionic Toa are classically female, and so is this character. I try to build distinctly dimorphic profiles into my mocs to make it readily apparent whether they’re male or female. Hopefully this one gets that across too.
jesus christ!!!