Thank you Steve, I am learning so much. I made the window install assembly on my computer program all based on your and Joe Lstiburek's building science....not rocket science!! LOL...good one there Steve. Thank you from Atlantic Canada...you are offering such an exceptional service with your architectural drawings with Big Red! And welcome Big Blue! ☺🙏💝🇨🇦🍁
Love your videos Steve. I'm going to be building a house in Vermont next spring. The information I gain from your videos is priceless. Love the Shuco windows, would love to see an install of a fixed window. Not sure how the turbo screw would work on a fixed window. Thanks
Good stuff Steve! Leaving the top of the siding open for the rain screen air flow, do you need to use a bug screen of sorts at the top and bottom? I think Wade or Jake mentioned its not necessary as the air flow up the rain screen will create an environment that bugs wont like, but then I recall Matt used one on his real rebuild. There are bug screen products available on the market, so it hard to know if they are needed or not. What's your thought on the matter?
0:35 oh, you're doing the oldschool mounting. nothing wrong with it except in germany for newly build houses that's not allowed anymore just fyi 3:40 oh, combining both even, wow. the screws are all it takes :) 14:37 yeah, SIGA is some really good stuff
Steve how do you detail the junction between the window weep exit and sloped sill ? Caulk or leave it open (ie a gap between wood sill and window aluminum
Hi Steve - you video has been incredibly helpful. I have a question about installation. Hope you share some thoughts! The question is whether we need metal base frame for installation? My project manager suggest we should lay metal frame on the concrete wall first, then install the window on the metal frame. I understand that’s easier and quicker to install. However, the metal base frame actually connect the internal window part with the external window part and bypass the insulator. I believe that might damage the insulation performance. Would you please share some recommended installation approach here? Please help and thanks in advance!
I think I know what you are asking, but the intent of the tape is to create an air seal at the base of the window. If the inside and the outside tape are both adhered to the base of the window and then to the sill, I don't think either side will experience greater pressures under the window because the opposing tape will prevent it.
Steve, I have seen a few comments about the air gap at the top of the siding and below the exterior sill. Is simply not caulking the joint sufficient or do you think having an intentional gap would be beneficial? If so, how big of a gap would you recommend? People have comment about bug screens, but based on your diagram, it does not appear to be necessary below the sill.
@@David_Mash Homes before the 1960s were higher quality. Larger overhangs or awnings installed. But yes, when the rain is driven by high winds, even those won't provide protection from water damage.
That was very interesting. All the thought that goes into tiny details. These windows don’t have mosquito screens. Would such a screen take off some of the force of a driving rain? I’m planning a ICF cabin build with 12 inches of concrete. Is there a scenario in which it would make sense to install 2 windows, one flush with the outside and the other almost flush with the inside?
Interesting idea! Aside from cost concerns, it would be a great way to get relatively bomber R value in the window space. For a smaller project it could be doable. Did you give it more thought?
Who needs to pay thousands for college when we have you showing us a master class for free?!! Much appreciated
10:20 "It's building science, not rocket science!" LOL! Love it!
Great window detailing!
Thank you Steve, I am learning so much. I made the window install assembly on my computer program all based on your and Joe Lstiburek's building science....not rocket science!! LOL...good one there Steve. Thank you from Atlantic Canada...you are offering such an exceptional service with your architectural drawings with Big Red! And welcome Big Blue! ☺🙏💝🇨🇦🍁
Steve, great job! Your are a very gifted teacher and architect!
Great video! Can you back to the job site and show us how to detail the outside of the window the way you showed us on the plans ?
Great stuff Steve, as always.
Love your videos Steve. I'm going to be building a house in Vermont next spring. The information I gain from your videos is priceless. Love the Shuco windows, would love to see an install of a fixed window. Not sure how the turbo screw would work on a fixed window.
Thanks
This was awesome.
Who can provide this information when building a home? The architect or the engineer or the builder?!
Thanks for the awesome video! but I'm curious about what kind of books you have on that bookshelf.
Great content, thank u -- keep it going
Steve, Would you ever use the James Hardie Color Plus pre-painted trim where you used 5/4 PVC sill in this detail? Thanks!
Good stuff Steve! Leaving the top of the siding open for the rain screen air flow, do you need to use a bug screen of sorts at the top and bottom? I think Wade or Jake mentioned its not necessary as the air flow up the rain screen will create an environment that bugs wont like, but then I recall Matt used one on his real rebuild. There are bug screen products available on the market, so it hard to know if they are needed or not. What's your thought on the matter?
0:35 oh, you're doing the oldschool mounting. nothing wrong with it except in germany for newly build houses that's not allowed anymore just fyi
3:40 oh, combining both even, wow. the screws are all it takes :)
14:37 yeah, SIGA is some really good stuff
Do you have a video showing the outside sealing and taping?
That window you just spoke about…..Cost delivered to site would be nice to know . Please
Definitely
German windows are amazing!
Steve how do you detail the junction between the window weep exit and sloped sill ? Caulk or leave it open (ie a gap between wood sill and window aluminum
Steve-0 who commission s/adjusts these window that you mentioned in previous video ? If glass breaks on these , who fixes it if its European ?
Hi Steve - you video has been incredibly helpful. I have a question about installation. Hope you share some thoughts! The question is whether we need metal base frame for installation? My project manager suggest we should lay metal frame on the concrete wall first, then install the window on the metal frame. I understand that’s easier and quicker to install. However, the metal base frame actually connect the internal window part with the external window part and bypass the insulator. I believe that might damage the insulation performance. Would you please share some recommended installation approach here? Please help and thanks in advance!
Should the inside tape face the other direction (like the outside tape) due to outside air forces being stronger than interior forces?
I think I know what you are asking, but the intent of the tape is to create an air seal at the base of the window. If the inside and the outside tape are both adhered to the base of the window and then to the sill, I don't think either side will experience greater pressures under the window because the opposing tape will prevent it.
No screens though on these windows ? Many US climates have bugs most of the day DS youd want to open any window.
Excellent point
Steve, I have seen a few comments about the air gap at the top of the siding and below the exterior sill. Is simply not caulking the joint sufficient or do you think having an intentional gap would be beneficial? If so, how big of a gap would you recommend? People have comment about bug screens, but based on your diagram, it does not appear to be necessary below the sill.
What about rain on the interior window sill when a user leaves the window open?
I'm gonna guess Schuco knows when tilted in, the rain runs down the face, into a trough then out.
@@ccwnyc5671 no i mean kids left the windows open and it rains. Not tilted. Actual water on the interior sill.
@@David_Mash he mentions the inside taping. I think in reality, nobody's leaving these wide open. That's for temporary cleaning access.
@@David_Mash
Homes before the 1960s were higher quality. Larger overhangs or awnings installed. But yes, when the rain is driven by high winds, even those won't provide protection from water damage.
That was very interesting. All the thought that goes into tiny details.
These windows don’t have mosquito screens. Would such a screen take off some of the force of a driving rain?
I’m planning a ICF cabin build with 12 inches of concrete. Is there a scenario in which it would make sense to install 2 windows, one flush with the outside and the other almost flush with the inside?
Interesting idea! Aside from cost concerns, it would be a great way to get relatively bomber R value in the window space. For a smaller project it could be doable. Did you give it more thought?
So this channel is actual useful content and MR’s has gone full shill