I wanted comment on your install of the phat starter I new it’s was noisy. But man the 93 starter sounds smooth. Great upgrade I did the same on my stroker engine.
Ive been using small starters for F150s since the early 90s, they had them before Ford got smart and started using them on Mustangs to replace the ole bulldozer starters. Much quieter and about 1/3 the amp draw
Can't you just use the old trigger wire from the ignition switch and run it directly to the solenoid on the starter. You would essentially be using the fender mounted solenoid as a power distribution block. Is my logic correct? Mind you the vehicle I'm looking to do this on is a late 80's Ford ranger.
I just purchased one, but instead of running the second wire, I just added a Copper plate to join both wire terminals on the starter, and left the hot wire on the relay as with the old starter. But it wont engage, it just runs free. I noticed the gear is no longer on the center, could that be the problem? What Am I doing wrong? Thanks
That was an odd wiring solution. Why didn't you just run the trigger wire on the starter to the main post? Then, when the solenoid gets triggers like normal, it'll power up the starter and trigger it at the same time. Basically, the same thing you do to a GM starter when installing a Ford solenoid.
Aw man I like the big phaaat starter , do I really have to change it when my compression is only 11.1 ? 😁😂 Nah man I ordered what was supposed to be a high torque starter a few weeks ago and it looks just like the one that you got except mine is red but I do like how it is smaller and looks like it will have more room beside the longtube headers that I've got for the car . Something else I done was put some insulation or a heat shield on the starter and that will stop the slow starts when it is hot . That's what I did to my 92 fox and it started good hot or cold then without changing the starter because the heat kills those things but I think that the starter I got like yours was really cheap like 50 bucks so that's cool and it's a little more weight reduction off of the front. Every lil bit helps. I'm so close to being ready to drop my 347 in my car its killing me I've been waiting all week to get my heads back from the machine shop and now it is going to be first of the week but if I could have got them today I would have had it all together this weekend and could have dropped it in next weekend so I'm ready to get this thing running and ⁶
@@RegularGuyGarage yeah man that thing has fought you tooth and nail and you could probably pull it out and put it back in with no lights and one hand tied behind your back and I hope that you won't have to pull it anymore because you have been through enough hell already, so hopefully you can race it and get it dialed in so that you can have some fun with it. Maybe slide into the 6s on motor, that would be cool and its doable, tussin messed around and got failTD into the 6s 6.96 I believe with a stock bottom end and your first run was pretty good I thought so I feel like you will be able to get down around that or maybe better . If I can get my heads back from the machine shop I can get them put on and get my engine dropped in.It took a couple months for me to get them when I bought them then I wanted to port them and the intake and that really took some time and now the machine shop has had them all week long and don't even have them milled yet and that's all I have left to finish up and drop in everything else has went well except for the heads.the rest of it its built and ready to go. Did you see the pictures that I put on your Instagram of my engine?
@@RegularGuyGarage I could tell that you hated that thing cause when you got through showing it you just kinda threw it in the box harder than you normally would if you were trying to save that phat thing 🤣😁
I'm still yet to work out why you americans persist with them starter solenoids. Just get rid of it and run your power lead and trigger straight to the new starter. Too many wires and routing for no reason. I understand with the stock starter, but i see this still with starters with a solenoid attached all the time.
I will be doing this soon. I am having heat soak to my fat old starter is giving me a hard time when its hot. Thanks for the video
Haha I do love the sound that old style starter makes though.
Great timing! I just bought one to install on my engine rebuild last week.
I wanted comment on your install of the phat starter I new it’s was noisy. But man the 93 starter sounds smooth. Great upgrade I did the same on my stroker engine.
Ive been using small starters for F150s since the early 90s, they had them before Ford got smart and started using them on Mustangs to replace the ole bulldozer starters. Much quieter and about 1/3 the amp draw
Thank you for this , so Easy to follow im doing mine as i watch
Foxbody Essentials, lol!Looking good my man.
I like it 🤔
@@RegularGuyGarage Sweet! I'm still running the old one,its huge (1987)...looking at the S.V.E.130 amp?
The 130amp is definitely a must have 👍👍
This will also work for pre 92 f series pickup trucks with 4.9 ,5.0 and 5.8 with old style starter.
Dan as usual every time I watch your content I lean something new. How about “Foxbody Musta-haves” get it Musta(ng)!
Thanks,
DC
Awesome! Yea. I like that too. A few good ones in the comments 🤔
I did the opposite to my 93 because I like the sound of the low torque starter crazy man
😂😂😂
Good content thanks for the video she sounds good!!!
Can't you just use the old trigger wire from the ignition switch and run it directly to the solenoid on the starter. You would essentially be using the fender mounted solenoid as a power distribution block. Is my logic correct? Mind you the vehicle I'm looking to do this on is a late 80's Ford ranger.
recommend this for bolt on 5.0 ?
May be doing this on the SSP good vid
GearHead704 as far down as you have it, definitely put one of these in when you put it back together. I’m sure Matt would agree with me lol
I just purchased one, but instead of running the second wire, I just added a Copper plate to join both wire terminals on the starter, and left the hot wire on the relay as with the old starter. But it wont engage, it just runs free. I noticed the gear is no longer on the center, could that be the problem? What Am I doing wrong? Thanks
Wire it correctly
You can’t shortcut this. Wire it correctly
That was an odd wiring solution. Why didn't you just run the trigger wire on the starter to the main post? Then, when the solenoid gets triggers like normal, it'll power up the starter and trigger it at the same time.
Basically, the same thing you do to a GM starter when installing a Ford solenoid.
Hey bro what size bolts were holding the starter?
3/8”-16 x 1 1/2”
@@RegularGuyGarage dude i was not expecting a reply thanks a lot you have a good one man.
Aw man I like the big phaaat starter , do I really have to change it when my compression is only 11.1 ? 😁😂 Nah man I ordered what was supposed to be a high torque starter a few weeks ago and it looks just like the one that you got except mine is red but I do like how it is smaller and looks like it will have more room beside the longtube headers that I've got for the car . Something else I done was put some insulation or a heat shield on the starter and that will stop the slow starts when it is hot . That's what I did to my 92 fox and it started good hot or cold then without changing the starter because the heat kills those things but I think that the starter I got like yours was really cheap like 50 bucks so that's cool and it's a little more weight reduction off of the front. Every lil bit helps. I'm so close to being ready to drop my 347 in my car its killing me I've been waiting all week to get my heads back from the machine shop and now it is going to be first of the week but if I could have got them today I would have had it all together this weekend and could have dropped it in next weekend so I'm ready to get this thing running and ⁶
Man I hated that big old starter 😂. And hopefully once you drop yours in you don’t have to pull it back out at all. Unlike what I’m doing lol
@@RegularGuyGarage yeah man that thing has fought you tooth and nail and you could probably pull it out and put it back in with no lights and one hand tied behind your back and I hope that you won't have to pull it anymore because you have been through enough hell already, so hopefully you can race it and get it dialed in so that you can have some fun with it. Maybe slide into the 6s on motor, that would be cool and its doable, tussin messed around and got failTD into the 6s 6.96 I believe with a stock bottom end and your first run was pretty good I thought so I feel like you will be able to get down around that or maybe better . If I can get my heads back from the machine shop I can get them put on and get my engine dropped in.It took a couple months for me to get them when I bought them then I wanted to port them and the intake and that really took some time and now the machine shop has had them all week long and don't even have them milled yet and that's all I have left to finish up and drop in everything else has went well except for the heads.the rest of it its built and ready to go. Did you see the pictures that I put on your Instagram of my engine?
@@RegularGuyGarage I could tell that you hated that thing cause when you got through showing it you just kinda threw it in the box harder than you normally would if you were trying to save that phat thing 🤣😁
I'm still yet to work out why you americans persist with them starter solenoids. Just get rid of it and run your power lead and trigger straight to the new starter. Too many wires and routing for no reason. I understand with the stock starter, but i see this still with starters with a solenoid attached all the time.
We’re Americans. We don’t think. We just do 🤷♂️🇺🇸😂
Yea i ditch the stock solenoid and put a junction block there since thats all its for after that one is installed anyway