Awww! I haven't finished watching the video yet but I already know why your gauge is grounding. That looks like a sending unit for a oil pressure light rather than a gauge. Essentially those ground when there is no pressure which is supposed to turn on the light. But when you have a gauge, that tends to work the gauge when the key is on and engine is off. Was the pressure reading all the way low when you started the engine?
@@AndyKruseChannel Alf is correct. The original sending unit was for the Falcon-styled instrument cluster with the oil pressure light and not for the full gauge instrumentation that you have on your 66. The 65's with the GT gauge cluster or one that has been switched over from Falcon style to gauge would need to have the sending unit changed to the style of oil pressure sending unit you installed. When I first started watching this video and saw how fast and far the needle on the gauge went, I knew it had to be a grounding issue. And then when I saw the sending unit.... :)
I won't lie, when you started the car, and the gauge was taking its sweet time to move, I was holding my breath! Lol! I was worried you were running with NO oil. Glad it worked out.
I’ve always used thread sealant on those without an issue. Maybe I have just been lucky. I would watch for leaks without it. NPT threads, which I believe those are require sealant.
On a cold start....my oil gauge goes to half way. After about 10 miles down the road, it bottoms out to the 0 psi position. And stays there until the motor is started on a cold start again. Then the cycle repeats. I'm not smoking. Not losing oil anywhere. Just losing pressure. Oil pump? Sending unit? Plugged pick up tube filter? I keep putting heavier oil in it seeing if it makes a difference. It dont.
The easiest part to check is install a new oil sending unit and see if the pressures read any different in the scenarios you described. However, it is not likely that is the problem as oil thins out a bit as it warms up, so worn bearings will show some pressure on a cold engine, but little to no pressure once everything warms up. A faulty oil pump won't show the pressures you are describing, and a faulty oil pressure gauge in your dash wouldn't do that either. Probably not what you wanted to hear, but rip the band-aid off and find out before it's too late. Good luck mate! :)
This video's over a year old so I'm a bit late but... Old school auto instrument guy here. That first "sender" you showed isn't a sender it's an oil pressure switch which is designed to turn on the booby light not to run a gauge. The new unit is actually a pressure sender which will run the gauge. The gauges themselves don't run on 12 volts they run on 5 volts via a thermal regulator. The gauges operate 73 ohms at low and 10 ohms at high, all gauges are the same resistance. The pressure SWITCH you pulled out was shorting the gauge to ground when engine OFF and the gauge would have dropped to '0' once engine was running. I was watching and cringing as the gauge shot up to full and has likely done damage to the gauge even though it may still work, the thermal winding is probably burned. It often happens that people don't know the difference between an oil pressure switch for the booby light and an oil pressure sender. I've repaired quite a few of these dashes and often it's the oil pressure gauge that's burned out because people have installed a switch instead of a sender. Also I replace the old thermal regulator with a super reliable solid state regulator. Other times all the gauges have burned out because the thermal regulator has failed pushing 12 volts through the gauges. Anyway, I hope your gauges are working well, but keep in mind that the oem thermal regulator thant's mounted on the back of the cluster case WILL eventually fail and will burn all the gauges when it does.
Hey I have the booby light on my 71 maverick cluster but want a gauge, I just bought a new switch and gauge. Not sure how to hook it up as it has a tube connection etc. so the gauge will not work with the switch?
@@joseespinoza93 You don't say whether it's a mechanical gauge or electronic gauge, after market or replacement gauge. I'll assume it's an electronic gauge. In that case you must use a SENDER not a switch. Find where the oil pressure switch is located on the engine and install the sender into that port. If you want to keep your booby light as well as the gauge you can buy an adapter that will allow fitment of both the switch and the sender. But regardless, don't confuse a switch with a sender, the switch turns on a light, the sender operates a gauge
@@ellesmerewildwood4858 I got a manual gauge with the tubing but I think I will have to buy the sender next an electric one right? Can a manual work with a 302?
@@joseespinoza93 Are you running electric and mechanical ? There are brass adapters that allow the fitment of both the switch and the sender for the electric or for the mechanical but not all three. But I'm not sure why you want electric and mechanical. Yes, the mechanical will work on a 302, just get the gauge that reads the appropriate pressure, maybe an 80 pound gauge. I'm not sure what sort of oil pressure a certain engine runs at. I'm an instrument guy, not so much an engine guy. But most engines will run up to 80 pounds at maximum.
Just doing the intellitronics cluster in my 65 289 and removing the same oil sending unit, had the original falcon style sweep gauge cluster. Does any car part store carry that extension piece for the new unit, or is it from a specific Mustang vendor? Thanks and your vids are of great help! Update found it on Amazon, so thanks for the vid!
Great job as always, Andy! So it’s ok for the oil sending unit to be stood off the block with a spacer and still be accurate? That’s good to know, as I knew it wasn’t ok for temp sending units to be done the same way. My 65’s PO had a whole mess of brass fittings plugged in to the rear temp sending unit port to fit the stock and aftermarket temp sending units, and neither of them worked because they weren’t in the actual flow of coolant. Thanks as always for this great info! Especially loved the part where 16 tools later you found the best way to get the original unit off. That’s me every time. 😂😂 Cheers!
Yeah, the extension tube for the oil sending unit is not affecting the pressure, but it could if it was long enough. For example, if the tube was an unrealistic 100 feet long, the oil pump would have to fill all 100 feet and the pressure drop over that distance would only tell you what the pressure is at 100 feet away, not the pressure in the engine. However, due to relatively short length of the extension tube we put on these motors, the loss in pressure read at the end of the tube is so insignificant that it's essentially the pressure the pump is generating. :)
Hey Andy, tried doing this with my 66 a few months ago. My currently installed sender tube is an older version of your (and my) replacement. I was being pretty gentle when trying to remove the old tube and it didn't want to budge. Out of fear that it was cross threaded I left it alone. I saw online that the sender tube should pull out with remote ease but I'm wondering if this was in reference to the style of the one you removed? With this taper styled tube would it make since to you that it require a little more torque to remove? Or would you just leave it be? Just trying to round up opinions to inform my decision, would greatly appreciate yours! As always, thanks for the upload and your help! :)
I don't think the taper should play a roll in how easy it is to break it loose, but it's possible that the previous owner was a gorilla and went crazy with it. If you're not comfortable giving it the beans to break it free, maybe take it to a reputable shop and see if they have any ideas. This is one of those parts that may need to be heated to get it loose, but since there's oil near by, it might not be the best suggestion. Sorry I'm not much help on this one. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel oh you're always great help! love the idea, don't know why I haven't thought of it but I've built up a pretty good relationship with a local shop. Gonna blast it with a penetrant this weekend, if that doesn't work I'm gonna bring it to the shop! Thanks again Andy, be well!
Thank you so much- having the same issue. Mine however is staying to the left side - so no amount of pressure seems to move it. Now when I drive it - at times it does move them back down to low or nothing - is this the same issue? I noticed your gauge was to the right side all the way, mine is the left- is it the same thing or is there something else I should look into?
It's tough to say for sure without being there, but the three things that come to my mind are a poor ground, faulty Sending Unit (that gold piece I threaded into the side of the block) or you may just have really low oil pressure. Some people put a ton of teflon tape on the extender piece and Sending Unit, and it's possible that it's not getting a good enough contact for a good ground. Maybe check that first. Next, get a new Sending Unit from the auto parts store (just about anyone of them should have what you need) and see if the needle moves on your gauge. If yes, there you go. If no, and you know it's grounding good, there's a small chance the gauge is not functioning properly, but I'd probably lean towards real low oil pressure. It's not cheap, but you could buy an aftermarket oil pressure gauge that actually reads the oil pressure in the gauge (not with a Sending Unit) and see what your pressure is there. Good luck!!
@@AndyKruseChannel thank you so much!!! The unit was bad and works like a champ now. Sub for life now!.I have another issue - not related to this but my car seems to ride great without the vacuum line connected to the carb. If i connect it- there is hesitation when cruising like not enough fuel is getting to it. If I disconnect the line from the carb it runs great. Can I drive it like that with no issues or is there something there that needs to be addressed
@@louiegarcia3544 It's tough to know exactly as your carb may have a few vacuum lines connected. If it's the one going from the distributor to the carb, it could be that the initial timing was done with the distributor connected (don't want to do that) or the distributor itself needs to be adjusted. I have a video on setting the initial timing, but not one on the adjustment of the distributor which is typically done through the vacuum port on the distributor. You may have to dig into that stuff a little and see where you come out. If your vacuum line issue is with another line (like to the valve cover or to the back of the intake manifold), you may have to start over with setting up the carb (as if it was new) because a previous owner may have tuned and timed everything without those lines connected and that may be causing the problem.
Awww! I haven't finished watching the video yet but I already know why your gauge is grounding. That looks like a sending unit for a oil pressure light rather than a gauge. Essentially those ground when there is no pressure which is supposed to turn on the light. But when you have a gauge, that tends to work the gauge when the key is on and engine is off. Was the pressure reading all the way low when you started the engine?
I think you're correct, I bet that unit is for the '65 cars. When I turn the key on, the needle sweeps all the way to the other side. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel yes sir!
@@AndyKruseChannel Alf is correct. The original sending unit was for the Falcon-styled instrument cluster with the oil pressure light and not for the full gauge instrumentation that you have on your 66. The 65's with the GT gauge cluster or one that has been switched over from Falcon style to gauge would need to have the sending unit changed to the style of oil pressure sending unit you installed. When I first started watching this video and saw how fast and far the needle on the gauge went, I knew it had to be a grounding issue. And then when I saw the sending unit.... :)
I won't lie, when you started the car, and the gauge was taking its sweet time to move, I was holding my breath! Lol! I was worried you were running with NO oil. Glad it worked out.
It's how I keep the viewer hooked.
@@AndyKruseChannel building suspense with an oil pressure gauge. Nice!
I’ve always used thread sealant on those without an issue. Maybe I have just been lucky. I would watch for leaks without it. NPT threads, which I believe those are require sealant.
Yup, I found a drip, wrapped it, good to go. :)
On a cold start....my oil gauge goes to half way. After about 10 miles down the road, it bottoms out to the 0 psi position. And stays there until the motor is started on a cold start again. Then the cycle repeats. I'm not smoking. Not losing oil anywhere. Just losing pressure. Oil pump? Sending unit? Plugged pick up tube filter? I keep putting heavier oil in it seeing if it makes a difference. It dont.
The easiest part to check is install a new oil sending unit and see if the pressures read any different in the scenarios you described. However, it is not likely that is the problem as oil thins out a bit as it warms up, so worn bearings will show some pressure on a cold engine, but little to no pressure once everything warms up. A faulty oil pump won't show the pressures you are describing, and a faulty oil pressure gauge in your dash wouldn't do that either. Probably not what you wanted to hear, but rip the band-aid off and find out before it's too late. Good luck mate! :)
I hope you don't develop a leak there. No to Teflon tape but you should use some loctight or pipe dope on the threads.
I did, wrapped it, good to go. :)
This video's over a year old so I'm a bit late but...
Old school auto instrument guy here. That first "sender" you showed isn't a sender it's an oil pressure switch which is designed to turn on the booby light not to run a gauge. The new unit is actually a pressure sender which will run the gauge.
The gauges themselves don't run on 12 volts they run on 5 volts via a thermal regulator. The gauges operate 73 ohms at low and 10 ohms at high, all gauges are the same resistance. The pressure SWITCH you pulled out was shorting the gauge to ground when engine OFF and the gauge would have dropped to '0' once engine was running. I was watching and cringing as the gauge shot up to full and has likely done damage to the gauge even though it may still work, the thermal winding is probably burned.
It often happens that people don't know the difference between an oil pressure switch for the booby light and an oil pressure sender. I've repaired quite a few of these dashes and often it's the oil pressure gauge that's burned out because people have installed a switch instead of a sender. Also I replace the old thermal regulator with a super reliable solid state regulator.
Other times all the gauges have burned out because the thermal regulator has failed pushing 12 volts through the gauges.
Anyway, I hope your gauges are working well, but keep in mind that the oem thermal regulator thant's mounted on the back of the cluster case WILL eventually fail and will burn all the gauges when it does.
Thanks for the heads up. :)
Hey I have the booby light on my 71 maverick cluster but want a gauge, I just bought a new switch and gauge. Not sure how to hook it up as it has a tube connection etc. so the gauge will not work with the switch?
@@joseespinoza93 You don't say whether it's a mechanical gauge or electronic gauge, after market or replacement gauge.
I'll assume it's an electronic gauge. In that case you must use a SENDER not a switch.
Find where the oil pressure switch is located on the engine and install the sender into that port. If you want to keep your booby light as well as the gauge you can buy an adapter that will allow fitment of both the switch and the sender.
But regardless, don't confuse a switch with a sender, the switch turns on a light, the sender operates a gauge
@@ellesmerewildwood4858 I got a manual gauge with the tubing but I think I will have to buy the sender next an electric one right? Can a manual work with a 302?
@@joseespinoza93 Are you running electric and mechanical ? There are brass adapters that allow the fitment of both the switch and the sender for the electric or for the mechanical but not all three. But I'm not sure why you want electric and mechanical.
Yes, the mechanical will work on a 302, just get the gauge that reads the appropriate pressure, maybe an 80 pound gauge. I'm not sure what sort of oil pressure a certain engine runs at. I'm an instrument guy, not so much an engine guy. But most engines will run up to 80 pounds at maximum.
Just doing the intellitronics cluster in my 65 289 and removing the same oil sending unit, had the original falcon style sweep gauge cluster. Does any car part store carry that extension piece for the new unit, or is it from a specific Mustang vendor?
Thanks and your vids are of great help!
Update found it on Amazon, so thanks for the vid!
Glad you found it. I'm not sure if local auto parts stores would have it, but it would be great if they did. :)
Great job as always, Andy! So it’s ok for the oil sending unit to be stood off the block with a spacer and still be accurate? That’s good to know, as I knew it wasn’t ok for temp sending units to be done the same way. My 65’s PO had a whole mess of brass fittings plugged in to the rear temp sending unit port to fit the stock and aftermarket temp sending units, and neither of them worked because they weren’t in the actual flow of coolant. Thanks as always for this great info! Especially loved the part where 16 tools later you found the best way to get the original unit off. That’s me every time. 😂😂 Cheers!
Yeah, the extension tube for the oil sending unit is not affecting the pressure, but it could if it was long enough. For example, if the tube was an unrealistic 100 feet long, the oil pump would have to fill all 100 feet and the pressure drop over that distance would only tell you what the pressure is at 100 feet away, not the pressure in the engine. However, due to relatively short length of the extension tube we put on these motors, the loss in pressure read at the end of the tube is so insignificant that it's essentially the pressure the pump is generating. :)
im doin intellitronix digital gauges right now for my 64 1/2 an I had to do my sending unit with the power steering in the way.
Yeah, so things on these cars can be difficult to remove/replace. :)
Hey Andy, tried doing this with my 66 a few months ago. My currently installed sender tube is an older version of your (and my) replacement. I was being pretty gentle when trying to remove the old tube and it didn't want to budge. Out of fear that it was cross threaded I left it alone. I saw online that the sender tube should pull out with remote ease but I'm wondering if this was in reference to the style of the one you removed? With this taper styled tube would it make since to you that it require a little more torque to remove? Or would you just leave it be? Just trying to round up opinions to inform my decision, would greatly appreciate yours! As always, thanks for the upload and your help! :)
I don't think the taper should play a roll in how easy it is to break it loose, but it's possible that the previous owner was a gorilla and went crazy with it. If you're not comfortable giving it the beans to break it free, maybe take it to a reputable shop and see if they have any ideas. This is one of those parts that may need to be heated to get it loose, but since there's oil near by, it might not be the best suggestion. Sorry I'm not much help on this one. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel oh you're always great help! love the idea, don't know why I haven't thought of it but I've built up a pretty good relationship with a local shop. Gonna blast it with a penetrant this weekend, if that doesn't work I'm gonna bring it to the shop! Thanks again Andy, be well!
Thank you so much- having the same issue. Mine however is staying to the left side - so no amount of pressure seems to move it. Now when I drive it - at times it does move them back down to low or nothing - is this the same issue? I noticed your gauge was to the right side all the way, mine is the left- is it the same thing or is there something else I should look into?
It's tough to say for sure without being there, but the three things that come to my mind are a poor ground, faulty Sending Unit (that gold piece I threaded into the side of the block) or you may just have really low oil pressure. Some people put a ton of teflon tape on the extender piece and Sending Unit, and it's possible that it's not getting a good enough contact for a good ground. Maybe check that first. Next, get a new Sending Unit from the auto parts store (just about anyone of them should have what you need) and see if the needle moves on your gauge. If yes, there you go. If no, and you know it's grounding good, there's a small chance the gauge is not functioning properly, but I'd probably lean towards real low oil pressure. It's not cheap, but you could buy an aftermarket oil pressure gauge that actually reads the oil pressure in the gauge (not with a Sending Unit) and see what your pressure is there. Good luck!!
@@AndyKruseChannel thank you so much!!! The unit was bad and works like a champ now. Sub for life now!.I have another issue - not related to this but my car seems to ride great without the vacuum line connected to the carb. If i connect it- there is hesitation when cruising like not enough fuel is getting to it. If I disconnect the line from the carb it runs great. Can I drive it like that with no issues or is there something there that needs to be addressed
@@louiegarcia3544 It's tough to know exactly as your carb may have a few vacuum lines connected. If it's the one going from the distributor to the carb, it could be that the initial timing was done with the distributor connected (don't want to do that) or the distributor itself needs to be adjusted. I have a video on setting the initial timing, but not one on the adjustment of the distributor which is typically done through the vacuum port on the distributor. You may have to dig into that stuff a little and see where you come out.
If your vacuum line issue is with another line (like to the valve cover or to the back of the intake manifold), you may have to start over with setting up the carb (as if it was new) because a previous owner may have tuned and timed everything without those lines connected and that may be causing the problem.
@@AndyKruseChannel ahh ok makes sense, this is a brand new carb I put on a few months ago. I’m going to check the timing
What would you call the oil temp extender piece 🤔
I have in my notes that I called it the "Oil Sending Unit Extension". If you use that in your search, you should be able to find what you need. :)