Double Cardan shaft rebuild /Heat straightening / Shortening
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- Опубліковано 25 лют 2022
- This week we upgrade! I take a old drive shaft that was worn and too long fit in my old pickup. It turned out great!! Consider supporting Steve Summers UA-cam channel
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Saturday morning with coffee and Steve and the Chevy.
That shaky driveshaft is bey design to remind you to get out and unlock your hubs. LOL😄
Sad but true😁. There is no way you would have forgotten with the old shaft.
"Stand behind my work" made me smile and then I felt sad because there're few around who would do the same. Great content as always :D
been watching Steve for a few years now....look forward to all his episodes. Today it dawned on me that his voice and cadence remind me of that "little trees" painting guy named Bob Ross from the 1980's. different subject but same calming attitude.
Fenner has incredible heat straightening videos. Since he does a lot of native prop shafts, he does a lot of heat straightening. He can control the shaft in such small precise increments. It's amazing. You're a really smart guy, Steve. You must bea real asset at your job. I hope they realize that. You do great work. Thanks a lot for letting us watch.
Keith is definitely a pro at it. He is the guy that got me to try it years ago 😁👍
Yes, but Keith try this tecnique to a solid shaft, not to a tube.
...maybe I remember wrong ?
@@SalvoMorina Yes, Keith used it with a solid shaft, but the principal is the same.
@@joeylawn36111 of course the principal is the same, but the thermal stress in a tube of (let me say) 1/4 inch wall is much much more than in a solid shaft of 2 or 3 inches... I'm not a professional, maybe I'm wrong
When I worked in a automotive machine shop, I think I changed everyone of those in Gary Indiana!
"I'll fix it for my self for free" ,best line I've heard yet so true!!!!
Truck restoration, lathe work, and welding, the perfect video combination
Glad you liked it!
Morning Steve! A little Keith Fener today. Things you learn on UA-cam.
Yep, Keith would have no trouble straitening out this drive shaft.
When you weld tube s and seal the ends it will blow out and mess-up your last weld. A vent hole is needed. after it cools the small vent can be filled.
My stomach tightened as you tightened the check jaws against the spline coating. Great video!
I like the new end music!
That rebuilt drive shaft should help with those front wheel burnouts you're going to be doing!!! Another educational and great video. Thanks Steve.
A little tip for the next one that you do put your live Center in the end of it with your splines chucked in the Chuck then take and heat it up in the area that you welded it until it is red with the lathe running on a slow speed, then take your heat away and let it sit there and run spinning between your Chuck and your live Center until it cools off Your live Center will automatically bring it to Center then once it cools off take a reading on it ,,,that should pretty much get you spot on that's the way we used to do it back in the old days at the driveshaft shop...
I Didn't consider that👍. Thanks
One thing I learned when I worked at a farm equipment dealership. The whole unit is the U-joint. The part that looks like a cross is called a cross. I too called the cross a U-joint.
Brilliant work shortening that drive shaft...from the lathe work to the heat straightening.
Enjoyed…great discussion/demonstration/repair….lots of tips!!
Well, I learned something new. I thought " Why not just drill out the plastic retainsers" just before you added the heat and was I surprised. Too see them pouring out like that from the heat was a real treat. Glad you know what you have to do and each video, I am realising you are one smart guy who has a knowledge of a lot of stuff.
I loved the quip about "If it breaks, I will repair it myself for free". That made me laugh out loud. Well done
Nice work. Elizabeth's going to want a smooth ride when doing those 4-wheel burn-outs. 😉
Thank you for sharing. Fantastic job. Enjoyed👍👀
Wow Steve I didn’t even know that was possible. Learned something new today. Thanks.
Hi Steve from the UK 🇬🇧
Nice work on the shaft brother..I like that you rebuilt that one instead of buying new.. makes a person feel good when a project is done.. love this video series on the truck.. cant to hear the stroker go thru the gears.
Porosity could be caused by by air heating up in closed tube pushing from the inside out permeating and bubbling through the weld. Remedy a really small hole drilled in the tube or warm the whole tube a little so the air inside is contracting during welding. It doesn't seem like it should have been a problem with air making it's way through a press fit but if it happens at the end of the weld I think that's what happened.
Yeah, I've definitely run into that.
That's EXACTLY what it is...
🇬🇧🙂
I have no plans or do I ever hope to have to rebuild a driveshaft. boy I really enjoyed your video you are a true craftsman. How do people live without a lathe?
Remember you also have those V-block jaws in your vise for clamping round stock horizontally. Keep up the good work Steve...
Nice job Steve! Brought back memories of when I owned an automotive machine shop. There were 4x4 trucks in every driveway in the town where my shop was. I either rebuilt or made new ones several times a week. That was in the 80's... Lots of fun.
Saturday morning, coffee, Steve’s video and a wee heads up for headphone users @3:35 😂
Another Saturday, another video from Mr Summers..
Very interesting choices of music, I like it.
Impressive how the needle moved on heating the shaft!
Great job, thx for showing!
:-D
Its impressive what a change in temperature does. Same thing happens to a mic when you hold it in your hand, only in a much smaller scale.
@@SteveSummers I heard of that, that they will "bend open" just by the warmth of your hand, that's why they mostlay have that flat spots on the arch, to use this as the surface to touch...
8-0
Steve , my old welding teacher always said TIG welding was like a Ballet The Gun the Rod and the welder must dance together.
My Dad a Master Mechanic had a saying. Install SPICER you cannot get any nicer.
nice work . i've been watching this guy from austrailia , curtis from cutting edge enginering , he does alot of cylinder rebuilds , the drive shaft reminded me of that .
He is quite a talented young man as well, and he's always working on massive industrial machinery. One thing these professionals have in common is proper habits with safety glasses and safety equipment. I also like to watch 4x4 fabricators like "Matt's Off Road Recovery." But he never uses safety glasses when grinding. I wonder how many kids will lose their eyesight by following his example? Otherwise, it is an entertaining channel.
Wish you would get us closer , Steve .
2 tips from an old driveline man, 1. Always install the joint so as to put your grease zerk into compression while driving forces are applied, and 2. Get your brass hammer and tap all of your "Yoke to Bearing Cap" areas (tap the yoke & middle carrier away from the bearing cap) to release any tension left over from compressing the bearing cap in place during the clamp-squeeze installation process, drive shaft should move smoothly, not notchy ... Also .. Why not weld while the shaft is in the lathe? you are TIG welding, not MIG welding, very little spatter to harm the lathe. Great show today!
It is the chance of arching through the headstock bearings that is the concern.
@@johnlennon335 You have a nice clean point on the shaft, sanded fresh, to connect the ground clamp to, so that there is only one solid ground point. Just think Steve did not want to move the welder from it's spot, though if he does start to do a few shaft or rotating jobs he will very likely make himself a set of shaft rotators as a jig, plus make a ground connector that can rotate with the job.
Nice Job!!! Filming, EDITING, and fixing the Drive Shaft....!
Nicely done and Bobby looks great with his new hair cut,,,hehe(@@)! Bi-opsey morning for the Bride, so have to come back to see the end,,Bear.
Nice paint job nice job good garage
Nice job, shortening the driveshaft and getting back to usable condition!
Nice work Steve!!
Nicely done Steve. I'm not even slightly envious that your lathe is big enough for a Drive Shaft....! Best wishes, Dean at Retromeccanica, Oxfordshire, UK.
Look at Cutting Edge Australia, his smallest lathe can fit that entire lathe into it, and the largest turns half ton parts. The size that a small cut is taking off 5mm per side, and barely even putting a load on the motor.
Nice video Steve, the straight I got procedure was interesting, never seen that before 👍👴🏻
Nice job! You didn't show how much fun it is when the needle bearings fall out of the cups. Or when you get the cups pressed in too far and bind up the joint. So much fun. When I work on a piece I really like that final paint that makes things look like new or better. Satisfaction.
I didn't have that issue with the carban side thankfully. The other end was a different story. Searched the floor for two needle bearings at least 30 minutes only to find them shoved up in the grease hole on the joint🤯. I struggle with it just like everyone else on occasion 😁
@@SteveSummers You've a very nice arbor press right beside you. Why didn't you use that?
Great work as always Steve. Regards from Ireland.
A man of many talents. Nice and informative work. 👍 👍
Thanks, Steve. Like so many others, I look forward to Saturday mornings for your updates.
Great video Steve I have the weld pro 200 it’s been great !
So far so good with mine. I think they are great machines for the money. 👍 Thanks for watching
Good to see another job ticked off the list. Can't wait till they're all ticked off and you can put the truck to work so it can start paying you back!
Anticipating a fantastic final product!
Enjoyed this video Steve.
I’ve changed one of those balls I’ll never do it again smh great design for function but absolute hell to work on
Looking good, Steve.
thanks for the videos.
Thanks, Steve. Always learn something watching you!
Great video, Thanks a lot.
Great video
🇬🇧🙂
Wow the heat straightening was amazing!
Hello ,
Like what we learn every day, for my part it is the release of the plastic pins, the rest remains classic but it is very good work very well executed, tree restored to new condition, congratulations on this very beautiful work and this beautiful video.
Excellent progress!! Great job on shortening that front driveshaft!!
Good stuff, great video.
Great rebuild on that driveline.
Impressive work Steve, looking forward to seeing - and hearing - the finished product! Thanks for the video!
HEY, Every time I do one of these types of u-joints I always put the cup in question at a 45 pointed at the floor as I have seen them come flying out of the joint at Mach 2.5. Who ever designed these ball joint tools was either a genius or a genius. They fit these joints like they were/are the main reason they were made. It sure is nice to see you back on your lathe. You must miss it. Adam (Abom) would respect the heat alignment done here. He is really good at it for sure. 4 though is as close or closer than a factory robot welded shaft. All in all that was /is a great fix on a stuffy build. Just getting the u-joints done as I remember took a couple hours to re and re. Thanks my friend. You always seem to fire up my memory of days long passed. Take care eh.
Nice lookin Smith torch !
Great video...
Incredible effort
Awesome Work on it Steve.
👍👍
Nice job Steve
I saw that heat straightening method on a Keith Fenner video. Never though it could be applied to a hollow drive shaft. You taught 2 cool tricks in the span of a week. Thanks for uploading.
Happy Saturday Mornin with Steve, Elizabeth, Bobby, and Grits! You always give me a morning to look forward to and this was no exception. I wondered how drive shafts were shortened, now I know. Good job on the heat straightening. I watched Keith Fenner do that on marine drive shafts and was always impressed. Thanks for taking the time and effort to share. God Bless!
Glad to se you doing some machine work again, but no matter I still watch every week!
Love your work Steve. So jealous of your workshop and the amount of tools you have, you have a very capable setup now! I have watched every single video you’ve put out since you started extending your shop (ps love the windows you put in).
Can’t wait to see you complete your truck rebuild. Greetings from Perth Australia.👋
Fantastic job on the straightening. .004 is plenty for a drive shaft. Ever time I try to do the same I end up worse than when I started. I have to learn patience I guess. I seem to always go too far then I'm chasing my tail trying to get it back.
Nice video. Especially liked the use of heat to straighten rather than force. I installed a grease zerk in the threaded end of the needle. That way I don't remove and reinstall the grease gun end. This speeds up greasing. Just a tip I use, thought it might be worth mentioning. Have a good weekend.
Keep it coming Steve, you are doing such a great job with the channel!!
Thank you Lance😁👍. Hope all is well with you.
Very intetesting.
You are an incredibly talented individual. I think your father instilled a great work ethic in you. I always found that the more I knew how to do, the more valuable I was to my employer. I currently hope yours knows what you are worth, and compensates you accordingly. Nice having that big Monarch for that type work. Stay safe, stay well.
Im a structural steel welder/fabricator (recently took over machine shop) :) and this is how we straighten beams or columns that either warp from welding or come in the shop already tweaked, pretty cool how it works, in the winter we use snow instead of water to shock it. Once again great work, i admire your attention to detail and patience/drive to do things to the best of your ability, and taking your time to do so!
I guess Bobby was looking at you thinking if I've had a haircut Steve, you need one too. 😂😂🤣🤣🤣🤣
Good job Steve, I noticed when you did the first spot weld on the driveshaft you can see it actually move ,so next time you do something like that you may want to go back and check your video first before you go forward any further. Just an opinion. Anxious to hear at new motor run!
Years ago I worked in a small machine shop that did LOTS of driveline work, and yea the CV joints are a PITA...
We carried lots of parts including the ball kits.
But the point here is DO NOT HAVE that U joint cap aimed at anything like your junk when heating!!!!!
I had one blow out with enough force to knock a BIG dent in a metal roof......
PS on the heat straightening we always did that between centers when possible.
Another tip is to press the first side of the new cap as far as possible past home before
starting the second cap. this greatly minimizes the dreaded " needle down"" syndrome, no fun.....
After all the internal clips are installed then you can and should beat on the center piece to seat
all the clips against the yokes.
Some of the real early driveshafts that used the plastic retained U joints did not even have provision for
the internal clips, those really sucked!!!!
nice job
Nice job Steve, i learned many years ago that its a pain to keep something straigt with welding. I had great succes with welding in a special way try to explain. first tackweld as you dit, then weld a quarter from left to right and the next quarter before the first q and so on till round . thus welding to the right en every next weld not after but before the lastweld. this somehow correct the deforming from the other welds. try it out welding a pipe on a plate like that and be supriced how straigt it wil be .
greatings Jos .
Nice work. 20 years on 9 miles of dust dirt mud wet to hot highway right back into mud dirt road and the instant i switched to spicer NON greasables i stopped changing u joints as often. The new spicer seals on the non greasables are far better than the greasables.
Nice how to video…for me it’s time vs money. Will repair in-house or sending it out make the most sense.
Great job explaining all the bits
Aftermarket drive shafts are pretty reasonably priced. Just the quality replacement joints were over 50 bucks if I remember correctly. I considered a replacement.
Nice
Side note: I still remember the Geo Metro you covered before. It would be fun to see a complete refurbishment of that too. :)
Nice job on the repair. Don't be surprised if it's out of balance after all the exact work. GM did not try to true the shaft before they injected the plastic retainer. They then balanced them with the shaft running in whatever position the shaft was in. Center of the shaft and center of the yokes were almost never in line. It shows up after you replace joints and the internal locks recenters everything. My shop sent many shafts out for rebalance after a simple joint replacement because of this
Since this is a front drive shaft it will never be used at any speeds much over 10 or 15 mph probably, so as long as it is close, it should be plenty good. I didn't see if Steve is installing a locker?
Great job there, and yes old grease in the metal messes it up all the time, though I can bet you the original parts they did not care about the porosity, and simply welded over it, because paint was going to hide the sins. Probably soaked nicely into the steel, and nothing short of a hot bake would have gotten it out, or a relief hole the other end to drop the pressure. Yes grease is great, especially on hard to get parts, likely that grease you put in was the first since new on the shaft, and it likely spent a lot of time dry and in 2H.
If only paint could hide my sins.
Using an impact on the ball joint press during reassembly is ballsy! I always turn the ball joint press screw with a wrench when installing the caps, since it gives one a chance of catching a problem (ex: needle bearing fallen over) before the new u-joint is ruined. Hey, if the impact works for you, power to you!
BTW... Supposedly orientation of u-joints with grease fittings matters. Depending on whether the fitting hole is in tension or compression can change the strength of the joint. Probably doesn't matter unless you are really pushing the truck off road but worth keeping in mind, if you have broken u-joints in the past.
Your ball joint tool is wonderful. I broke the rear horn off of a Wilton vise pressing a ball joint out as a kid. Sad.
Can you get a rubber accordion boot to go over the sliding joint? My old landy has them on the prop shafts, an additional layer of protection for the sliding joint and splines.
Amazing what you know :)
Thanks for sharing! I broke my thumb on my three part front drive shaft rebuild. I will rent or buy one of those bull point presses. That thing worked great. If you were to buy it again would stick with the aluminum one?
Hiya Steve
welding pipe with a "little" TIG torch like that (under 200A) you need to run a very thin rod, like 1mm or so. the thicker stuff like 3mm and up will only make nasty porosity unless you slap a huge gas lens onto the torch and even then you are still liable to get porous welds...
Nice job on the drive shaft. My only problem with greasable joints is the grease channel makes them weaker than a solid joint. For my application, I take my Jeep off road to some pretty rocky terrain. A greasable joint is much more likely to break doing some of the stuff I do. :)
This is why you need to take time to mull over the ORIENTATION of the u-jt in the yoke. For optimum strength, you need to orient the "cross" so the trunnions adjacent to the grease fitting are in COMPRESSION when applying torque when traveling forward.
I've worked on a few of those. The original recommendation was to press those U-joints until that plastic sheared. I did one that way, it was a frightful process. You also risked warping the yoke. The next one I took to a local shop, he simply torched the crosses away and knocked the caps out while things were still hot. Take the parts home, clean the bore the caps went in with a dremel and a worn sanding drum, put it back together.
One other thing I do with new U-joints is to pack those caps with grease as soon as I remove them from the cross. It keeps those needle bearings in place during assembly. You can pull the zerk to allow any excess to bleed out and not impede your progress.
I now have "big bore envy." I have a truck driveline to build. 3" tube. My lathe goes to only 1-9/16.
My lathe only has 1.5" spindle bore 😁. The chuck is pretty deep tho.
@@SteveSummers might not be so bad, then, my Bison chuck is a set-true, and has a good size center hole. I got a bit more past that, the spindle is MT-5 stub. Past that is the straight spindle bore.
I plan to upgrade my pickup rear driveline to one that would have been used in a larger freight truck. U joints are the same, just bigger, heavier tube and carrier bearing. Dealing with longer components, I'll probably be using the steady and removing my tail stock for the first time ever.
MM77 Approved 👍🏼👍🏼
It's interesting how precise this can be but also my father says they used to shorten theirs with nothing but a grinder and a welder. 😂
Yep, done that many many times.
Sealed for life U joints are great ....until you find out how short that life is !
Yeah really, especially if you hit a mud hole. Liquid sand paper .