Helpful. One item for those that may need to make 35mm holes LESS than 1/2 inch depth (i.e. my hinges required 7/16). Just slip one or more half inch washers over the large portion of the shaft between the jig and stop. I used just one and the hinges fit perfectly.
Great explanation/demo! The wonderful thing about UA-cam is being able to access this info despite it being posted 6 years ago! I just bought this jig and am creating my first set of shaker style doors with concealed hinges. I thoroughly appreciate creators who "get to the point" instead of lengthy and unrelated pre-amble.
Thanks. I found the hinge instructions to be very daunting to decipher. Looks like you got your hinge from HD (Liberty Hardware), identical to my instruction sheet. You nailed it and saved me a ton of time and probably prevented me from ruining the doors I built. Great job!
Great jig.. can't fault it for what I needed. Had to make a new door for the kitchen cupboard...did the job in no time at all. Others may differ and buy different tools, but I love it.
Great video. I just purchased one and used it on 4 doors. Worked okay. Not a bad jig for a DIY’er (as you mentioned). However, I found that there was a little too much play in the 1/16” guides for the screws to get consistent hole locations. You really have to be ultra careful to stay at 90 degrees. Because of the play, it’s easy to be slightly off. (And I agree, metal inserts would be nice from a durability perspective). All in all though, not bad for $30. You can pay a lot more for other jigs elsewhere.
Thank you. My cabinet doors were off for over a year. Bought a little outdated house alone in 2021 and the hinges on the kitchen cabinet doors were the wrong kind, with slits in the doors for the hinges to go through! I started putting them back on today (my dad refinished them and patched the slots).
One thing I like about the jig is the alignment marks on the edge. Just align jig to the top and bottom of the door with your desired distance from the ends of the stile. No measuring and marking required. If you want hinges farther away, then just put a spacer block past the end of the jig. However, if you have 3 or more hinges, then you do need to measure location as you showed.
I used this on my cabinet job today at home. You mentioned it clogs with shavings after each drill. I found once you unlock from jig if you run drill and hold the plastic piece it will spin and throw out all shavings. Just thought I would share. Great video. Very helpful.
Sent mine back a day after purchase. I initially thought it was quite good, then realised that every hole had pulled a few mm to the left. I had the jig firmly clamped down, so it hadn't moved. The bush for the drill is made of plastic and it's so sloppy that it pulls over to one side as you drill. Might get you out of a jam occasionally but I wouldn't use it for any serious work. Back to the router and home made jig for me, dusty but accurate.
Thank you! Another improvement I would like to see on this cool little jig is 1, 1.5, 2, 2.5, etc... distance adjuster that you dial in with the screw driver. You got a new sub.
Best video on the Kreg hing jig. Thanks. I just orderd one, but I am having problems finding 35mm inset hinges with 45mm screw placement. I found one with 48mm. You think it would work?
I think it will work, but I just wouldn't use the jig for the mounting screws. I'd use it for the 35mm recess, and then place the hinge in it, make sure it's parallel with the door frame, and then drill right through the hinge holes as a guide for the pilot holes. A self centering drill bit would make it easier, but shouldn't be necessary.
Agreed re seeing the brass inserts... I've bought lots of Kreg jigs in the past and to be honest, with this one I feel the quality has gone down quite a bit. It works ok, but I noticed quite a bit if wobble in the main bit that was never a problem before. I would also like to see built in clamps rather than having to add loose clamps... Too time consuming. Let's face it, you're never doing two holes at a time. Also a vacuum port would be handy as it does clig A LOT!!!
Hi . Thank you for this video. My cabinet doors from 20 year old cabinets had a few Grass 1000 hinges with a 42mm bore spread (distance between the tiny side holes for screwing the hinges). I'm updating the hardware and the new hinges that I bought have a 45mm bore spread so I have to drill new holes. Already have the 35mm cup as these are old cabinet doors... Should I get this jig so I can drill the new side holes? Never done this before so trying to figure it out... Great video, thanks..
No, I'd just set the hinge in place, get it square to the door edge, and mark your hole location right from where the hinge shows you need them. If the previous holes are interfering, you can fill them with wood glue and toothpicks prior to drilling new ones.
Good job. Helped me a lot. Well done on your presentation. You should give a class to these tubers on how to give presentations. You broke it down as we use to say in the military “Barney style”
I found that not drilling the main hole in one pass works best. Drill part way, pull up to clear chips, then finish drilling hole. I did my 1st test cut by not clearing chips, and it made it difficult to unclog the chips.
Could just use a 1/16" center punch to put a dimple in the wood under the 2 holes and drill them after you remove the jig. I've drilled the pilot holes before the main one so I can just remove the whole jig and get rid og the shavings easier too
If you have a non standard screw hole distance. Just drill the 35mm hole first then lay the hinge inside and use a self-centering drill bit which puts the hole right in the center of the hinge screw hole.
Not a dumb question at all! If you have face frame cabinets, it's really easy. After installing the hinges on the door, just shim the door to the height you want it on the cabinets. Then leave it open and pilot drill then screw the hinges to the right height on the face frame. They should reference off the corner of the face frame for left/right and front/back, so you really only have to worry about height.
Hi There Nathan, this is Shelton Brower (Shane's son) This is a nice channel you got going on here! You have way more subscribers( and tools come to think of it) than I do LOL.I post mostly hunting videos myself, but I will be sure to follow your videos. Take it easy, God Bless!
do your screw holes actually line up with the holes on the hinge? I've seen other reviews where lots of people are complaining that the small mounting holes don't ever line up properly with the hinge.
@@DoresoomReviews thanks! I can't find it now but it was another review that led me to yours.. the reviewer and a bunch of commentors said they didn't line up right with any hinge they tried! weird..
You don't need to use those screw holes on the jig. It's just as easy to use the holes in the hinges and a self centering drill bit. When you have set both hinges in the door, put a straight edge against hinges to get them aligned properly, then drill the screw holes..
Have one myself. Great tool. However, one of the carbides broke off the Forstner bit after only the twentieth pocket drilled. Still worked for the last four pockets but made a lot of dust rather than shavings.
In your scenario with the required 20.5mm recommended from the door to the center of your wood, what setting did you put the jig at? 3,4,5,6? I noticed you found the middle of the door and drilled but with the overlay, did that rub when opening the door? Thanks. New subscriber here.
The 20.5mm specification for my hinges is from the edge of the door to the center of the 35mm hinge cup, not the center of the door stile. I put it at 3mm, since 20.5 - (35/2) = 3. I didn't have any rubbing when opening or closing the door - that offset amount is driven by the required clearance for the door overlay.
@@DoresoomReviews omg thank you! I watched your explanation again and a light bulb regarding mm and offset finally went off on my head! I'm going to be drilling 17 holes over the next 3 days for my new doors I'm building (finally completed 1 last night) but wanted to triple check to ensure I didn't use the won't setting on the jig. Thanks again!
The cost of the jig with bit isn't much more than a 35mm bit by itself. I'm assuming Kreg will offer replacement bits at some point. They do sell pocket hole bits individually, so these may be available too.
if i want to decrease the door overlay on the hinge side (by 1/8") would I use an 1/8" spacer between the jig and and the edge of the door?...I already have the jig set at the minimum edge distance (#3 on the jig). Thanks for a clear concise review!
The door overlay is generally a property of the hinge, not something that can be changed by deviating from the manufacturer's installation instructions. Doing so can cause clearance problems between the door and the cabinet. However, since you're trying to decrease the overlay it might be ok to do in this case. I think your plan of a 1/8" spacer is the best solution if you decided to go that route.
Hi. Great video, thanks. How would you say the bit would perform on birch ply (as opposed to pine/chipboard etc)? I'm going to basically drill about 30 holes or less with it into 18mm BP. Cheers.
My hinge instructions say 1/8 TO 1/4 inch from the edge of the door. So, I'm not really sure what to make of that. I guess maybe I'll experiment with a few pieces of scrap. (They are full overlay hinges, if that matters.)
That's weird, I've never seen that on a hinge specification. Maybe I just haven't worked with enough different types though. Testing on scrap sounds like an excellent idea!
If you have face frames, there's only one degree of freedom for the hinges on the cabinet side. Just measure the height and line them up. Or if you really want a jig, Kreg recently released one: amzn.to/497ZOGX
Hi. My cabinet box is 3/4" thick instead of 5/8" regular cabinet box. Do I need to add 1/8" or 3mm more on top of 3mm offset from the door edge for conceal hinge?
The door overlay is generally a property of the hinge, not something that can be changed by deviating from the manufacturer's installation instructions. Doing so can cause clearance problems between the door and the cabinet when you open it. Here's a good guide to concealed hinges: www.wwhardware.com/concealed-hinge-buying-guide/
What brand hinge did you use? I understand some require this tool be altered outside of its intention. Using a hinge that fits the parameters of jig would make this a lot easier!
I used these, and threw out the plastic 8mm inserts and just used the screws to mount them since the cup bears most of the weight: www.homedepot.com/p/Liberty-35-mm-105-Degree-1-2-in-Overlay-Face-Frame-Hinge-10-Pack-850304/203274047 They've been working great for my garage cabinets for the last 6 months, although being such a cheaper option they don't have a ton of adjustability range and one of the doors is a tiny bit off.
Thanks! I just realized my current cabinet uses a double demountable hinge. Will I still be able to use this kit and convert to a hidden hinge? I’m curious about cutting out the whole on the door and if it will even work
Without seeing pictures myself, I'd just say this Rockler guide would be your best bet on figuring it out: www.rockler.com/how-to/understanding-hinges/
So... this jig doesn't align the holes for the inside cabinet side of the hinge? Does Kreg even sell such a jig? The Milescraft version of this comes with one the attaches to the back of the concealed hinge jig for convenient storage. It also has a wider range of offset adjustment on the 'cams', and costs less.
You don't really need an alignment jig for installing the hinge to the cabinet if you're working with face frame cabinets. The only dimension you need to worry about is vertical door placement, which is easy to manage. So for most cases you won't really need the Milescraft secondary jig. But it does look like that model has some nice improvements like end stops and metal pilot hole guides.
@@DoresoomReviews you still need to set how far into the cabinet the hinge will be screwed, don't you. This jig aligns those holes at the depth. Not a big deal, but it is included. Yes, you can mark out the height and depth to pre-drill the holes, but you could do the same on the doors without a jig too. I feel it would be helpful for someone who hasn't done doors before, such as myself prior to purchasing one of these. For less money, you get a lot as you pointed out. Metal bushings for pilot holes AND the 35mm bit, wider span of offset, end stops and the secondary jig for cabinet install. I'm not sure what the bushing diameter is for their bit, but there have been complaints the Kreg uses a non-standard bit size to force the user into buying their bits to use in their jig. You may or may not have brought this up in the video also, I don't recall. Either way, I appreciate your review of this product as it ultimately led me to make an informed decision on a jig for my garage cabinet product :)
If you're doing face frame cabinets, the depth doesn't matter, since the hinge just butts up to the face frame. But for frameless cabinets you're right, it is necessary to set the hinge depth correctly. Glad I could help you decide on a jig!
You don't need a jig for that part. If you're doing face frame cabinets, just set the door at the height you want, clamp a support block under it, then open up the door and screw the hinges in. The only real degree of freedom is the door height, which the support block will constrain.
If you're using face frame cabinets you don't really need a jig at all for that part. The only direction you need to worry about is up/down when screwing the hinge to the face frame. Afterwards, most hinges have some fine tuning adjustment screws.
I got mine for $29, but I find the bit isnt really that sharp and I have to really push to get it to cut, but since I only have 8 hinges to do it won't matter much
The door overlay actually isn't a property of the hinge that really affects the jig settings directly. The closest related parameter that comes into play is the 35mm hole offset from the edge of the door. The jig is adjustable to 3, 4, 5, or 6mm from the edge. So in summary, the hinge is what needs to be compatible with the door (same overlay parameters), and the jig needs to be compatible with the hinge (adjustable same offset parameters, and both using the 35mm hinge inset diameter). You won't really find a direct way to see if the door is compatible with the jig. Hope that makes sense.
Overlay is a property of the hinge, the gray stops are for hinge cup offset. Two entirely different things. Your hinge hardware should have come with instructions for how far in to mount the 35mm cups. Here's a good guide to concealed hinges: www.rockler.com/how-to/understanding-hinges/
![Kreg Concealed Hinge Jig [video #357]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/0wQMkWb4DjU/mqdefault.jpg)
![Kreg Concealed Hinge Jig [video #357]](/img/tr.png)
Helpful. One item for those that may need to make 35mm holes LESS than 1/2 inch depth (i.e. my hinges required 7/16). Just slip one or more half inch washers over the large portion of the shaft between the jig and stop. I used just one and the hinges fit perfectly.
Great tip!
Damn good tip, The scrap wood suggestion wasn't clear to me. You have to do math to subtract the scrap wood thickness and the collar.
@@DrJamesT
A couple of tests pieces would help you dial it in. And when you do it several times it will allow you to feel like an expert with it.
Larry Bridwell thanks
In a pinch you can also mark the depth with electrical tape.
Great explanation/demo! The wonderful thing about UA-cam is being able to access this info despite it being posted 6 years ago! I just bought this jig and am creating my first set of shaker style doors with concealed hinges. I thoroughly appreciate creators who "get to the point" instead of lengthy and unrelated pre-amble.
Thanks. I found the hinge instructions to be very daunting to decipher. Looks like you got your hinge from HD (Liberty Hardware), identical to my instruction sheet. You nailed it and saved me a ton of time and probably prevented me from ruining the doors I built. Great job!
Glad it helped!
Great explanation of things that aren’t really covered in the Kreg instructions.
Great jig.. can't fault it for what I needed. Had to make a new door for the kitchen cupboard...did the job in no time at all. Others may differ and buy different tools, but I love it.
I had no idea how to install euro hinges. I used this jig and they installed perfectly.
Great video. I just purchased one and used it on 4 doors. Worked okay. Not a bad jig for a DIY’er (as you mentioned). However, I found that there was a little too much play in the 1/16” guides for the screws to get consistent hole locations. You really have to be ultra careful to stay at 90 degrees. Because of the play, it’s easy to be slightly off. (And I agree, metal inserts would be nice from a durability perspective). All in all though, not bad for $30. You can pay a lot more for other jigs elsewhere.
Thank you. My cabinet doors were off for over a year. Bought a little outdated house alone in 2021 and the hinges on the kitchen cabinet doors were the wrong kind, with slits in the doors for the hinges to go through! I started putting them back on today (my dad refinished them and patched the slots).
I didn’t want to pay a handyman a ton of money and no cabinet stores will do it if not theirs.
One thing I like about the jig is the alignment marks on the edge. Just align jig to the top and bottom of the door with your desired distance from the ends of the stile. No measuring and marking required. If you want hinges farther away, then just put a spacer block past the end of the jig. However, if you have 3 or more hinges, then you do need to measure location as you showed.
Thanks for explaining this Kreg jig. The demonstration was in detail and very helpful. Following from Sydney Australia.
I used the kreg system the first time today, 9 cabinet doors in 3 hrs, not including paint, love it,
Best video i have seen! Its even better than the Kreg video. Great job very clear!
great video. i'm glad i bought the milescraft jig instead. this kreg seems to fall short on several key components...plus, it's about $10 cheaper.
Great video - extremely clear explanations. This jig made redoing my cabinets 100x easier.
You’re a very good presenter.
This video was helpful and interesting.
I gave you a thumbs up and I subscribed.
Best of luck with your channel.
Thanks! Glad it was helpful.
Excellent video friend, I'm not a carpenter but your ideas and info help me a lot, Thanks so much. I'm writing from London Ontario Canada
Glad I could help!
great presentation. Straight forward and to the point. Only have the occasional need but you’ve convinced of the tool to buy.
I made a jig for my plunge router and a scrap piece of trim after I watched your video. Thanks!
Great idea!
Great content - easy to follow and clear direction. First time user of this product and thx to you it went off without a hitch!!
what a great explanation. Thanks Man I just got my new Kreg jig and this video helps me a lot
I used this on my cabinet job today at home. You mentioned it clogs with shavings after each drill. I found once you unlock from jig if you run drill and hold the plastic piece it will spin and throw out all shavings. Just thought I would share. Great video. Very helpful.
Good tip!
This is exactly the review and demonstration I need for an upcoming job . Very helpful!
Sent mine back a day after purchase. I initially thought it was quite good, then realised that every hole had pulled a few mm to the left. I had the jig firmly clamped down, so it hadn't moved. The bush for the drill is made of plastic and it's so sloppy that it pulls over to one side as you drill. Might get you out of a jam occasionally but I wouldn't use it for any serious work. Back to the router and home made jig for me, dusty but accurate.
Thank you! Another improvement I would like to see on this cool little jig is 1, 1.5, 2, 2.5, etc... distance adjuster that you dial in with the screw driver. You got a new sub.
Best video on the Kreg hing jig. Thanks. I just orderd one, but I am having problems finding 35mm inset hinges with 45mm screw placement. I found one with 48mm. You think it would work?
I think it will work, but I just wouldn't use the jig for the mounting screws. I'd use it for the 35mm recess, and then place the hinge in it, make sure it's parallel with the door frame, and then drill right through the hinge holes as a guide for the pilot holes. A self centering drill bit would make it easier, but shouldn't be necessary.
@@DoresoomReviews Thanks. Most of the hinges I am finding all have 48mm so I guess I will go with it as you suggested.
I just bought a Freud bit and it fits perfectly. The Kreg bit I’d not very durable. Dulled pretty quickly.
Good to know!
Nice in depth review of this jig!
What's that little Ryobi blower you use to clean out the shavings?
It's the P738 High Volume Inflator: homedepot.sjv.io/YvAXq
I reviewed it here: ua-cam.com/video/sKhvssNbhTc/v-deo.html
Thanks for the review. I'm making my first cabinet/rolling kitchen island and I'll be at this step very soon. Appreciate the video!
Agreed re seeing the brass inserts... I've bought lots of Kreg jigs in the past and to be honest, with this one I feel the quality has gone down quite a bit. It works ok, but I noticed quite a bit if wobble in the main bit that was never a problem before. I would also like to see built in clamps rather than having to add loose clamps... Too time consuming. Let's face it, you're never doing two holes at a time. Also a vacuum port would be handy as it does clig A LOT!!!
I use 10,8 V Makita and had no stalling problems
Hi . Thank you for this video. My cabinet doors from 20 year old cabinets had a few Grass 1000 hinges with a 42mm bore spread (distance between the tiny side holes for screwing the hinges). I'm updating the hardware and the new hinges that I bought have a 45mm bore spread so I have to drill new holes. Already have the 35mm cup as these are old cabinet doors... Should I get this jig so I can drill the new side holes? Never done this before so trying to figure it out... Great video, thanks..
No, I'd just set the hinge in place, get it square to the door edge, and mark your hole location right from where the hinge shows you need them. If the previous holes are interfering, you can fill them with wood glue and toothpicks prior to drilling new ones.
@@DoresoomReviews thank you :)
Good job. Helped me a lot. Well done on your presentation. You should give a class to these tubers on how to give presentations. You broke it down as we use to say in the military “Barney style”
Glad I could help!
I found that not drilling the main hole in one pass works best. Drill part way, pull up to clear chips, then finish drilling hole. I did my 1st test cut by not clearing chips, and it made it difficult to unclog the chips.
Could just use a 1/16" center punch to put a dimple in the wood under the 2 holes and drill them after you remove the jig.
I've drilled the pilot holes before the main one so I can just remove the whole jig and get rid og the shavings easier too
Great idea!
You really make helpful videos, thanks for taking the time to do them
If you have a non standard screw hole distance. Just drill the 35mm hole first then lay the hinge inside and use a self-centering drill bit which puts the hole right in the center of the hinge screw hole.
Great tip!
Very nice. Dumb question, what about the other part of the hinge (the one that attaches to the cabinet)? Is it obvious how to install that part?
Not a dumb question at all! If you have face frame cabinets, it's really easy. After installing the hinges on the door, just shim the door to the height you want it on the cabinets. Then leave it open and pilot drill then screw the hinges to the right height on the face frame. They should reference off the corner of the face frame for left/right and front/back, so you really only have to worry about height.
EXCELLENT how to review. Thank you Sir 🙏🇦🇺
Hi There Nathan, this is Shelton Brower (Shane's son) This is a nice channel you got going on here! You have way more subscribers( and tools come to think of it) than I do LOL.I post mostly hunting videos myself, but I will be sure to follow your videos.
Take it easy,
God Bless!
Hey Shelton, keep up the hard work! I hit 1,000 subscribers at the end of last April, and it's taken off from there. You're already well on your way!
do your screw holes actually line up with the holes on the hinge? I've seen other reviews where lots of people are complaining that the small mounting holes don't ever line up properly with the hinge.
They lined up with mine. Depends on the hinge.
@@DoresoomReviews thanks! I can't find it now but it was another review that led me to yours.. the reviewer and a bunch of commentors said they didn't line up right with any hinge they tried! weird..
You don't need to use those screw holes on the jig. It's just as easy to use the holes in the hinges and a self centering drill bit. When you have set both hinges in the door, put a straight edge against hinges to get them aligned properly, then drill the screw holes..
I agree, they not line up if using Blum hinges
THANK U, finally a tutorial I can understand,
Great video but i think the reason for the forstner bit is if you need to replace it you would buy theirs
It is a very cool jig but missing some concerns
Another improvement could be the drill bushings for the 1/16 holes and some locating holes for the cabinet part of the hinge with drill bushings.
Great vid. Thanks for the info 🙏👍 Just a little tip. Try to reduce the number of times you say "Uh" and "Uhm"
Thanks for the feedback! I've gotten a lot better about that in the past few years. 😄
If you dont want to use the 1/16 bit guide holes you could always use a vix bit to center your hole without distorting the Kreg jig
That's a good point!
Have one myself. Great tool. However, one of the carbides broke off the Forstner bit after only the twentieth pocket drilled. Still worked for the last four pockets but made a lot of dust rather than shavings.
I think if that happened to me I'd return it or contact Kreg for a warranty replacement. Hopefully they made it right for you.
Drill the small holes for the screws first then don't have to worry about cleaning it off.
Good idea!
In your scenario with the required 20.5mm recommended from the door to the center of your wood, what setting did you put the jig at? 3,4,5,6?
I noticed you found the middle of the door and drilled but with the overlay, did that rub when opening the door? Thanks. New subscriber here.
The 20.5mm specification for my hinges is from the edge of the door to the center of the 35mm hinge cup, not the center of the door stile. I put it at 3mm, since 20.5 - (35/2) = 3. I didn't have any rubbing when opening or closing the door - that offset amount is driven by the required clearance for the door overlay.
@@DoresoomReviews omg thank you! I watched your explanation again and a light bulb regarding mm and offset finally went off on my head! I'm going to be drilling 17 holes over the next 3 days for my new doors I'm building (finally completed 1 last night) but wanted to triple check to ensure I didn't use the won't setting on the jig. Thanks again!
Yep, just make sure you check your hinge's specific installation dimensions and adjust the jig from there.
So incredibly helpful. Thank you!!!
Very helpful. Thank you. You did a great job.
The cost of the jig with bit isn't much more than a 35mm bit by itself. I'm assuming Kreg will offer replacement bits at some point. They do sell pocket hole bits individually, so these may be available too.
They do sell replacement 35mm forstner bits: amzn.to/3tLef0m
A quick way to tighten up the stop collar is attach your drill, hold the blade by hand and turn the drill on.
😬
if i want to decrease the door overlay on the hinge side (by 1/8") would I use an 1/8" spacer between the jig and and the edge of the door?...I already have the jig set at the minimum edge distance (#3 on the jig). Thanks for a clear concise review!
The door overlay is generally a property of the hinge, not something that can be changed by deviating from the manufacturer's installation instructions. Doing so can cause clearance problems between the door and the cabinet.
However, since you're trying to decrease the overlay it might be ok to do in this case. I think your plan of a 1/8" spacer is the best solution if you decided to go that route.
Thank you, fantastic review and how-to video.....
Nice review, but how about a vacuum @7:25 instead of blowing al the dust around the work area
Great video! Thank you for your clear communication!
Thank you for this timely review. I am about to use mine that I recently purchased.
Hi. Great video, thanks. How would you say the bit would perform on birch ply (as opposed to pine/chipboard etc)? I'm going to basically drill about 30 holes or less with it into 18mm BP. Cheers.
Yeah, it should do great for that application.
Good video. Thanks, I needed a review before tackling some cabinet doors.
Very nice video. Very helpful.
My hinge instructions say 1/8 TO 1/4 inch from the edge of the door. So, I'm not really sure what to make of that. I guess maybe I'll experiment with a few pieces of scrap. (They are full overlay hinges, if that matters.)
That's weird, I've never seen that on a hinge specification. Maybe I just haven't worked with enough different types though. Testing on scrap sounds like an excellent idea!
Absolutely awesome video! Thank you sir and God bless you
Does the jig address the cabinet side as well?
No, just the doors.
Thank you, installing some Blum hinges. first time. instruction was well received.
How did the installation go? Did everything work out well? Going to do the same install over the next few weeks
Thank you so much, that was really helpful, simple, and easy explanation.
Hello! nice guide!
anyone know a video on how to install the hinge part on the cabinet side? :D This guide did the door side great!
I agree. The cabinet side holes must be straight in front on the door hole. So how do you do it??
Awesome vid and great tips. Thank you!
Thank you for a great easy to understand video!!
Good info but what about the the template for the cabinet side mounting plate?
This jig doesn't cover that part of the process, just the 35mm holes on the door.
Check your manual for the hinges. Mine called for 2.5 mm from edge but the jig doesn't get that close
You could add shims to the edges. So if you need 2.5 mm, you could set the jig to 5mm, then add a 2.5mm shim along the door edge.
How do you install the other part of the hinge that mounts to the cabinet carcass?
If you have face frames, there's only one degree of freedom for the hinges on the cabinet side. Just measure the height and line them up.
Or if you really want a jig, Kreg recently released one: amzn.to/497ZOGX
To clarify.. does this have a stop collar? Thanks in advance 😊
what brand of hinge did you use ?
Blum makes good quality hinges: amzn.to/41bTyc8
How much kreg sir
Hi. My cabinet box is 3/4" thick instead of 5/8" regular cabinet box. Do I need to add 1/8" or 3mm more on top of 3mm offset from the door edge for conceal hinge?
The door overlay is generally a property of the hinge, not something that can be changed by deviating from the manufacturer's installation instructions. Doing so can cause clearance problems between the door and the cabinet when you open it. Here's a good guide to concealed hinges: www.wwhardware.com/concealed-hinge-buying-guide/
What brand hinge did you use? I understand some require this tool be altered outside of its intention. Using a hinge that fits the parameters of jig would make this a lot easier!
I used these, and threw out the plastic 8mm inserts and just used the screws to mount them since the cup bears most of the weight: www.homedepot.com/p/Liberty-35-mm-105-Degree-1-2-in-Overlay-Face-Frame-Hinge-10-Pack-850304/203274047
They've been working great for my garage cabinets for the last 6 months, although being such a cheaper option they don't have a ton of adjustability range and one of the doors is a tiny bit off.
Thanks! I just realized my current cabinet uses a double demountable hinge. Will I still be able to use this kit and convert to a hidden hinge? I’m curious about cutting out the whole on the door and if it will even work
Without seeing pictures myself, I'd just say this Rockler guide would be your best bet on figuring it out: www.rockler.com/how-to/understanding-hinges/
Where did you get the small attachment for your blower?
It came with it.
Very helpful overview. Thanks!
Best explanation I found on this jig thanks 👍
Great video
Great review. I bought one
So... this jig doesn't align the holes for the inside cabinet side of the hinge? Does Kreg even sell such a jig? The Milescraft version of this comes with one the attaches to the back of the concealed hinge jig for convenient storage. It also has a wider range of offset adjustment on the 'cams', and costs less.
You don't really need an alignment jig for installing the hinge to the cabinet if you're working with face frame cabinets. The only dimension you need to worry about is vertical door placement, which is easy to manage. So for most cases you won't really need the Milescraft secondary jig. But it does look like that model has some nice improvements like end stops and metal pilot hole guides.
@@DoresoomReviews you still need to set how far into the cabinet the hinge will be screwed, don't you. This jig aligns those holes at the depth. Not a big deal, but it is included. Yes, you can mark out the height and depth to pre-drill the holes, but you could do the same on the doors without a jig too. I feel it would be helpful for someone who hasn't done doors before, such as myself prior to purchasing one of these.
For less money, you get a lot as you pointed out. Metal bushings for pilot holes AND the 35mm bit, wider span of offset, end stops and the secondary jig for cabinet install.
I'm not sure what the bushing diameter is for their bit, but there have been complaints the Kreg uses a non-standard bit size to force the user into buying their bits to use in their jig. You may or may not have brought this up in the video also, I don't recall.
Either way, I appreciate your review of this product as it ultimately led me to make an informed decision on a jig for my garage cabinet product :)
If you're doing face frame cabinets, the depth doesn't matter, since the hinge just butts up to the face frame. But for frameless cabinets you're right, it is necessary to set the hinge depth correctly. Glad I could help you decide on a jig!
Super helpful, thank you!
Good video! Great explanation
Great job! Thank you.
What about the other half of the hnge how do you set it up to match door side?????
You don't need a jig for that part. If you're doing face frame cabinets, just set the door at the height you want, clamp a support block under it, then open up the door and screw the hinges in. The only real degree of freedom is the door height, which the support block will constrain.
@@DoresoomReviews Ok I understand that now Thanks for explaining .
Great video, thank you!
What about hanging the door too?
If you're using face frame cabinets you don't really need a jig at all for that part. The only direction you need to worry about is up/down when screwing the hinge to the face frame. Afterwards, most hinges have some fine tuning adjustment screws.
Hmm I just drilled 8 hinge holes in solid maple doors with my M12 gen 2 drill.. weird that your gen 1 was cutting out.
The Gen 2 has more torque - not on paper, but in practice.
I got mine for $29, but I find the bit isnt really that sharp and I have to really push to get it to cut, but since I only have 8 hinges to do it won't matter much
so all this really is is a depth stop which is on most routers?
Depth stop and it controls spacing from the edge of the door, which is a critical dimension for 35mm inset hinges.
great video once again thanks for posting
good video thanks
Excellent, thanks!
Great tutorial. Thanks!
Dose this kit do 1/2 inch overlay?
The door overlay actually isn't a property of the hinge that really affects the jig settings directly. The closest related parameter that comes into play is the 35mm hole offset from the edge of the door. The jig is adjustable to 3, 4, 5, or 6mm from the edge.
So in summary, the hinge is what needs to be compatible with the door (same overlay parameters), and the jig needs to be compatible with the hinge (adjustable same offset parameters, and both using the 35mm hinge inset diameter). You won't really find a direct way to see if the door is compatible with the jig. Hope that makes sense.
Thanks Bent very enlightening.
I'm working with 1-1/4" overlay, where do I set the grey stops for those? The instructions don't address that distance
Overlay is a property of the hinge, the gray stops are for hinge cup offset. Two entirely different things. Your hinge hardware should have come with instructions for how far in to mount the 35mm cups. Here's a good guide to concealed hinges: www.rockler.com/how-to/understanding-hinges/
Very helpful video 👍🏽