I've saved alot of money, watching your videos by repairing myself. I'm a diesel mechanic, by trade. But these newer cars, make me go brain dead. Thanks again Rich!
Your video has really helped me. For the assistance of your future viewers I have learned something your video did not mention. The replacement part you purchase may be designed differently than the factory part forcing you to rent two different types of inner tie rod removal / replacement tools. I did not know about the removal tool with the three allen head set screws until I viewed this video. I have a '98 plymouth breeze with a 2.0 liter engine. I rented a "universal removal tool from Advanced Auto Parts ( in Jacksonville Florida) and purchased a driveworks inner tie rod (part #DW-EV323 ) This new inner tie rod did have the flat spots on it and so the rented tool (powerbuilt part # 648607 kit #26) worked well to torque down the new part however did nothing to assist in the removal of the the factory part. I had to use a pair of vise grips to remove the old one to save on an extra trip to the store to rent the correct tool. In doing so I busted my finger against the car. It pays to have the correct tool for the job! So Heads up guys! either get the OEM parts and only rent the tool featured in this video OR do like I did and get the less expensive aftermarket part and be prepared to rent two different tools! It cost me a deposit of $65 dollars to rent however Advance Auto parts has a tool loaner program where once I return it I'll get all of the money back.
+Oscar Landin I would use a small pipe wrench to remove the old one, I used a large pair of vise grips to get off the old one and then the driveworks inner tie rod (part #DW-EV323 ) to install the new part. Good Luck!
This is an excellent video. It is the small things, like placing a mark on the end housing, in order to clamp it into the service tool in the correct position. Now, that is forward thinking!
Hey Rich, another great Neon one again! You just confirmed what I have always thought, when you brought up the fact thier are no specs for the torque on this thing -- that the car manufacturers make certain things on your car hard to fix so you have to go to the dealership. And wow, that tool is somewhere near $70!
Thank you very much for posting this great video. These are the same parts and assemblies as my PT Cruiser. I did not know if I can do this myself but after seeing your video I believe I can so long as I can get the car up in the air high enough. There are so many really crabby videos out there that are shaky out of focus and a very low quality but yours is crisp informative and to the point. Very professional and very helpful. Thank you so much for posting this video it will be very helpful in my project again PT Cruiser same stuff. Take care friend
Excellent video. I'm in the middle of a front susp overhaul and was wondering how this is done and what worn tie rods look like. Mine dropped straight down, just like your video haha. Already snapped off the sway bar mounting bolts, but I hear that's pretty common on the 2nd gen neons. Cheers
To break the jam nut loose without heat i find using two open end wrenches - one on the nut and one on the outer tie rod end, rest one on a jack stand and hit the other with a shop hammer (on the passenger side support the wrench on the jam nut and hit the wrench on the outer tie rod end, for driver side do the reverse)
i really like your video i wasn't really sure what to do with not having any flats but thanks to you i know now that a tool exists to do it anyways ....you are awesome thank you
I have to do this tomorrow :( Well I'm not but my father's friend. I wish I can do this but I really don't have the patience. Thanks for the video Rich.
How is the crossmember or K-frame as it is nicknamed looking on that second gen Rich? 2nd gen neons crossmembers rust out bad cost cutting from the first gens which almost never rust.
They are rediculous, but I found a large vise grip or a small stillson usually gets them loose ,if there is room to work, had to get very creative to do some of these!
I just did this yesterday all I used to remove the inner tie rod was some vice grips it was a little difficult to close the grip do to limited space but it broke loose the rod
So the tie rods I was given from the store look nothing like the tie rods in my car, or like anything from any videos I’ve seen. I’ve tried taking them back and they just keep assuring me that it’s the right part, we even used the VIN number. The same thing keeps happening to me, whenever I buy an alternator, it’s obviously not the right thing and yet they swear it is, could anyone have any answers for this?
Not too bad... the parts for me were about 80 for the whole inner and outer. So, if you don't know how to or just don't want to do it (like I don't want to be doing this right now) then I'd say that's not half bad of a price.
more Chrysler stupidity. there is no reason why they should design a inner tie rod like that when the proven normal method with the hex head on the end would be a lot simpler.
You are a great instructor. I wish all instructional videos are as good as this one.
Thank you!!
Wow, thank you!
I've saved alot of money, watching your videos by repairing myself. I'm a diesel mechanic, by trade. But these newer cars, make me go brain dead. Thanks again Rich!
Your video has really helped me. For the assistance of your future viewers I have learned something your video did not mention. The replacement part you purchase may be designed differently than the factory part forcing you to rent two different types of inner tie rod removal / replacement tools. I did not know about the removal tool with the three allen head set screws until I viewed this video. I have a '98 plymouth breeze with a 2.0 liter engine. I rented a "universal removal tool from Advanced Auto Parts ( in Jacksonville Florida) and purchased a driveworks inner tie rod (part #DW-EV323 ) This new inner tie rod did have the flat spots on it and so the rented tool (powerbuilt part # 648607 kit #26) worked well to torque down the new part however did nothing to assist in the removal of the the factory part. I had to use a pair of vise grips to remove the old one to save on an extra trip to the store to rent the correct tool. In doing so I busted my finger against the car. It pays to have the correct tool for the job! So Heads up guys! either get the OEM parts and only rent the tool featured in this video OR do like I did and get the less expensive aftermarket part and be prepared to rent two different tools! It cost me a deposit of $65 dollars to rent however Advance Auto parts has a tool loaner program where once I return it I'll get all of the money back.
Dave I've tried auto zone and advance here in Mi, they do not have this tool he has to remove the old style. Any suggestions would help.
+Oscar Landin I would use a small pipe wrench to remove the old one, I used a large pair of vise grips to get off the old one and then the driveworks inner tie rod (part #DW-EV323 ) to install the new part. Good Luck!
Nicely done. I would have liked to have seen how you were able to tighten that inner clamp on the boot. Did you do the Lexus redue project?
This is an excellent video. It is the small things, like placing a mark on the end housing, in order to clamp it into the service tool in the correct position. Now, that is forward thinking!
Hey Rich, another great Neon one again! You just confirmed what I have always thought, when you brought up the fact thier are no specs for the torque on this thing -- that the car manufacturers make certain things on your car hard to fix so you have to go to the dealership. And wow, that tool is somewhere near $70!
Thank you very much for posting this great video. These are the same parts and assemblies as my PT Cruiser. I did not know if I can do this myself but after seeing your video I believe I can so long as I can get the car up in the air high enough. There are so many really crabby videos out there that are shaky out of focus and a very low quality but yours is crisp informative and to the point. Very professional and very helpful. Thank you so much for posting this video it will be very helpful in my project again PT Cruiser same stuff. Take care friend
Excellent explanation. simple and precise. Thanks a lot Rich
Excellent video. I'm in the middle of a front susp overhaul and was wondering how this is done and what worn tie rods look like. Mine dropped straight down, just like your video haha. Already snapped off the sway bar mounting bolts, but I hear that's pretty common on the 2nd gen neons.
Cheers
Great tip with indexing the tool with the marker. I have feeling that you had the tool stuck on there before.
Great video, what are the torque specs on the tie rod?
I believe most applications were for the dodge but any tie rod that fits in the tool could be removed with it.
Nice, well done Rich, is that tool only for dodge?
To break the jam nut loose without heat i find using two open end wrenches - one on the nut and one on the outer tie rod end, rest one on a jack stand and hit the other with a shop hammer (on the passenger side support the wrench on the jam nut and hit the wrench on the outer tie rod end, for driver side do the reverse)
Yes the inner tie rod made for FIRM FEEL steering is longer.
i really like your video i wasn't really sure what to do with not having any flats but thanks to you i know now that a tool exists to do it anyways ....you are awesome thank you
Yes i have seen that on the neon.
Great video another Neon , that's good great for reference.
I have to do this tomorrow :( Well I'm not but my father's friend. I wish I can do this but I really don't have the patience. Thanks for the video Rich.
How did you know the inner tie rod was bad? What test did you perform.
How is the crossmember or K-frame as it is nicknamed looking on that second gen Rich? 2nd gen neons crossmembers rust out bad cost cutting from the first gens which almost never rust.
I grabbed the tie rod with my hand and moved the tire side to side and could feel the play on the inner tie rod.
Yes it was done.
i couldnt find a vid for a stratus would it be the same proccess?
Does this apply to the SRT-4 Neon also?
Question is.....how did you clamp the inner boot? Can you show how you did it
Hey could u tell me is it the same procedure for both sides?
They are rediculous, but I found a large vise grip or a small stillson usually gets them loose ,if there is room to work, had to get very creative to do some of these!
Funny how I need this very procedure on my 2000 Neon. Looks simple enough, but perhaps I can get my brother to help.
Whats the name of the tool you used to get the inner tie rod
Did you get it an alignment afterwards?
I just did this yesterday all I used to remove the inner tie rod was some vice grips it was a little difficult to close the grip do to limited space but it broke loose the rod
+CONSCIOUS MIND-AWAKENED I am glad you got it.
I'm getting a creaking sound when I turn the steering wheel. I wonder if it's a wheel bearing or the cv joint.
So the tie rods I was given from the store look nothing like the tie rods in my car, or like anything from any videos I’ve seen. I’ve tried taking them back and they just keep assuring me that it’s the right part, we even used the VIN number. The same thing keeps happening to me, whenever I buy an alternator, it’s obviously not the right thing and yet they swear it is, could anyone have any answers for this?
Very nice :-)
The tool was worth every penny :-)
Tool name ? Or where you got it from ?.....
Excellent instructions.
Glad it was helpful!
Excellent video.... Thanks for taking the time...
No i didn't but look at that area and i knew it could be trouble.
any idea the easiest way to pull a rack out of a 2004 neon sxt? ...
did you ever find the torque specs ?
Great video lots of help thanks
Thank you.
Is 214.00 with parts and labor a good price for this fix?
Not too bad... the parts for me were about 80 for the whole inner and outer. So, if you don't know how to or just don't want to do it (like I don't want to be doing this right now) then I'd say that's not half bad of a price.
How or where can I find the nut that goes to it?
Love the new intro
Could you have double bolted the end and use that to tighten the tie rod ?
No because it would turn at the joint.
Can you tell me what size tap die I need to chase the threads on the inner tie rod end ?
Off the top of head i would not know what size it would be..
is there a universal tool beside this one because this is back ordered everywhere
Have you looked into the Lisle 46600
it wont work
Do you have a video, for the ecm on a 2000 Dodge neon. 2.0L??
I do not as of yet have one for the neon
I should have showed me strengthening the old clamp and reusing it.
I like it..Thanks buddy.
great video, Thank you.
For that matter... when I replaced the steering rack I had the same issue. Tie rods were far too long :(
Use a hose clamp. Cost about $2 and easy to install/remove.
what is the name of tool and model number?
The tool i used was a Moog T40269
I always cringe when I see specialty tools like this. Who designs a rod with no flats, what a dumb idea.
Yeah, there is a $20 tool to deal with that :) Looks like a muffler clamp
more Chrysler stupidity. there is no reason why they should design a inner tie rod like that when the proven normal method with the hex head on the end would be a lot simpler.
+DrWonderEyes I am not sure why they designed it that way.
Wath ? Jajaja