How to MAKE a LITHIUM ION Battery Pack for an Electric Motorcycle (No explosions, sorry)
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- Опубліковано 2 жов 2024
- This video shows how to make a Lithium Ion battery pack that we made for our electric motorcycle project. We bought an electric motorcycle and the Li-Ion battery that came with it was shot, so we made a DIY Lithium Ion battery pack ourselves. The electric sportbike now performs significantly better using our Home-made lithium ion battery pack. Easy battery to replicate, and in this video we explain how to build a lithium ion battery pack yourself...with no explosions. If you experience your home-made lithium battery exploding, though, do not blame me. My insurance barely covers taco bell once a month
PARTS LIST:
260 Batteries (HIGHLY recommend this seller. 100% delivery, no false claims)
www.aliexpress...
Pure Nickel Strips
amzn.to/2tTKoHh
BMS:
www.aliexpress...
Heat Shrink Sleeve:
www.aliexpress...
Spot Welder:
www.aliexpress...
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I'm sure I missed some parts, but I'll add them later if I did. You'll need some misc. things, as well, like hot glue, wire depending on requirements for your projects, etc. Hope this helps!
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BTW we worked on this battery on and off over the course of about a week. Not too much to tackle, and we'll be duplicating this battery again in a couple weeks when more batteries come in. The Chinese bike is bout to get freakin SENT
Thanks for watching, boys!
Hi, I had modified a passenger ICE vehicle into lithium ion battery driving EV, with my tech team.
If you are interesting to make a EV using current ICE vehicle architecture, I am willing to share my experience.
in my research you should not hot glue the cells together and it is best to have spacers to separate the cells for heat dissipation when making a high performance battery. the use of thermally conductive potting compounds is advised. the more the battery can stay at a proper operating temp the better the performance and life. think about a weak cooling system on a car. runs great when you first start it up but once it gets heated up its struggling and ultimately decreases the life of the vehicle
The Inja Remove the ring on your finger.!
Well explained and good build demonstration
@@Man-go-Everywhere agreed. Not unless you want a burn, loss of finger or death. I am lazy and didnt do the amp math but i am gonna guess it could be enough to kill someone. Oh just remebered, the ring could short out the battery and cause an explosion.
I pay you would you do the same and send to me ? And what would be price ?
Man, you can't imagine how much I appreciate how you broke down calculating the gauge of wire needed (also applied to nickel strip for the amp per cell). I was pretty confident, but this made It so much more clear for me
9
One thing I've heard about making packs like this is to not glue the cells directly together as they might rub into each other over time so they might cause a severe short when damaged. Instead you could use a cell holder thing to keep the cells slightly apart.
I'm no genius, but hot glue is not a good idea. I like the plastic connector that leaves insulated air gaps.
@@jeffreybrewer9637 yeah likewise all i know about diy batteries is from the ebikes discord and even i know that whenever i see hot glue on 18650 packs i am seeing cringe. based batteries use cell holders
3d print the battery grid you need you can shape it to fit into the size of bike frame .
@@doooofus
Well this video is a couple of years old, don’t believe Curt hot glue’s battery cells anymore.
@@jeffreybrewer9637 well the air gaps are pointless once the battery is sealed anyway 😂 hot glue isn't a problem, battery spacers just make larger batteries
I learned more _CLARIFIED_ information from this single video than may be 5 or 6 other videos combined. I am very thankful to u guys for making it easier to understand the aspects involved and the way to combine the batteries, and what the outcome will be. I am _finally_ feeling far more confident in building my own - and am _VERY_ glad I happened upon this video. _THANK YOU!!_
Our pleasure!
@@TheInja IMO this video is very bloated, redundant and unnecessary. One can do this in five minutes without annoying, useless and way to loud music.
What you've done:
1.: showed the aliexpress page of cells with an extremly shaky camera without going into detail. This should have been in the firs 10 seconds, definitely not at the end.
2.: tell (but not shown!) about the nickel strips and the fake nickel plated strips. I commend for the education value here! This could be a 30 second segment.
3.: told about welding instead of soldering. That's 10 seconds.
4.: go into the basics of S and P of a battery. At least 3 times, very unnecessary. Explaining S and P stuff is one minute, tops.
5.: calculated necessary battery size for a given project, that's cool, another minute should be in an informative video.
6.: explaining a bit of BMS stuff, that's cool!
7.: made the battery pack itself. That could be another one minute timelapse, that's the only part in your video I'm quite happy with. Except the ludicrously generic, most annoying music, ever.
Wrapping up the battery is good!
8.: tested the bike, yay!
What you haven't done:
1.: show the BMS on any site you bought is from.
2.: for point 5: Amps for a given 3000W motor is fine and all, but you failed to mention the peak loads can be way higher.
Other things to correct:
1.: your battery build is very unsafe!
a.: you claim you have tested all the capacity of your cells, but it's not shown how it was managed. Yes, a 2 way charger shot is nice and all, but with that it would take many weeks to charge/discharge each cell and somehow note down the actual capacities.
b.: you have not shown or even done cell arranging! You have to be careful making your P blocks from selected cells to achieve same capacity for each P block. Failing that will lead to overdischarge is some P blocks. That will lead to range decrease very soon.
c.: battery holders are a thing for a reason! One just not glue together cells like that! Alternatively, you may create a rig that holds the cells together while welding them. I think it's a reasonable request.
Okay, so if anything in the video is there I mentioned it isn't, then, mea culpa. It's too long to watch the whole thing.
I know, this isn't a recent video, maybe your latest ones are way better. Or at least I hope so.
@@Sekir80 you obviously didn't watch any of it to learn anything then. I think your comment is unnecessary. We're just trying to help people and you're here complaining 💀
@@TheInja I liked stuff in your video and even tried to point those out. My complaint is the information density.
(and the atrocious music).
And I commend you are getting back to me, thank you!
The Inja: Made in China fixed in America.
Bro I may just steal this
@@TheInja 🤣
Hey man, what are your thoughts on using fuses to stop batteries from catching fire?
Apple: designed I'm claofinra made in china
I just finished watching BenjaminNelson's electric bike conversion. That series and this one is one of my favorites so far. I hope more people create series like these so we can get even more looks on how different people tackle different (or same) E-motorcycle problems.
You two work very well together and this has been a very informative series.
I got a exploding Vape battery ad In the beginning of this video, LOL.
Lol
Hey guys. :3 I would recommend using “fish” paper between your series cells. The fish paper absorbs a little bit of vibration and can also prevent abrasion between the thin film of the cells causing a short and possible fire. Id also recommend using the paper to protect the nickel cell connections and to wrap your cell before you shrink wrap for extra durability and rubustness. Hot glue is ok for assembly but will weaken over time due to temp. Fluctuations and normal wear.
I agree with the fish paper but I don't think if it would really be too bad for the glue. Hot glue can handle about 160 F (melts at about 250 F) and the cells really should never be above 140ish.
I hope you guys keep that battery away from your house. The cells are not properly insulated sideways nor top and no safety included like fuses. If one cell or one group fails you will have a lot of fun watching it burn. Be safe!
I have a 10kw motor with a 72v80ah battery pack on my bike. It does close to 130kph but the bms will shut down at high loads on sport mode, so it's unreliable to ride. I haven't ripped out the cells yet but I suspect the bms is not rated for the load. I'll rip the pack apart soon and test everything, and I will most likely upgrade the BMS to a (300a) Ant BMS with bluetooth so I can display cell details on a small android device mounted near the cluster. I'm not an expert in batteries so I'll learn more as I go plus this video was a great watch. Thanks for the well documented details @Inja and @lordchris - awesome build!
Easy fix- bypass the BMS for discharge, and only use it for charging.
Learnt so much from this video, thank you 💆🏼♂️🔥
Just a couple of things 1/ those cables look way too small to handle that kind of power you are using.
2/ you don't seem to have any kind of cooling gaps, so when you start to draw or charge at higher rates the batteries may get very hot.
Cooling can make a huge difference to how the batteries perform and last.
Man, I would hire you guys too increase the range of my 40mile 100volt electric unicycle.
Fascinating
Thanks for the nice breakdown of the process, enjoyed the results as much as your making it.
Thanks for the more in depth video. There are few safety concerns though. You should have insulated the positive terminals with fishpaper rings, otherwise the nickel strips may damage the top insulation over time due to vibration and lead to a severe short. Also recommended is to put fishpaper between all p groups for the same reason. Lastly, the balance wires should be layed out nicely and without crosses, otherwise they might short as well over time.
Agreed - it's a bad idea to build a battery like this with no insulation between P groups. I once opened a battery and found that the insulation had come apart on one of the cells, so now I'm always quite careful about this.
Agreed- Especially considering how much heat will be generated with the small wire sizes and not enough meat on the series connections. This is a very dangerous battery!
@@Badgermilk-zc2wy Yes, 3000/72 = ~42 Amps, that's a lot of current for that wire, not a whole lot of margin there, and the cells alternating like that and directly touching basically puts too much trust in the thin shrink wrapping around the cells. It will work initially but over the longer run this is a recipe for very bad trouble. One single bad cell in this pack and the whole thing will go up.
Oh, and I only just noticed that the BMS is sitting on top of a thin piece of tape bridging some 30V worth of cells, that's a short waiting to happen as well because the BMS edge will wear through the tape and/or the cell wrap.
OMG THANK YOU! This finally answered my question on how to wire up at the end!! I found a million guides on how to do everything else but not how to wire discharge direct from battery and charge to the bms properly. Now i just have to figure out this stupid proprietary connector that the battery case uses but otherwise I'm set!
This battery was like 500 dollars for a 48v 13ah. Nuts. 2 had died at this point because they didn't wire them up safely so i refused to do it. I checked all the cells in the 2 dead batteries and lucky lucky they all seem good! Cheap batteries but hey now I have a 52v battery with WAY more range to boot! I just have to figure out how to wire everything up with the new controller and all that.
To clarify this is an ebike not a motorcycle or anything.
Shouldn't use glue, when hardens it's prone to cracking and should use VHB tape.
Wow.. the guy explained everything I wasn’t clear on in the first two minutes of the video lol
You can slowly watch the food and drinks disappearing from the counter as the days progress...gotta keep the gainz up while making moves
big fax
Good choice in adding the extra cells, i had a similar issue, I wanted to do 72v or 20s 6p with the space i had or a 14s 9p i chose the latter as battery longevity is more important than my top speed, and the lower voltage let me drop the current per cell. So i have a slower bike, 70kmh instead of 90kmh but this version pulls really really fricken hard. Like 0-60kmh in just about 8seconds, also this is a bicycle so that's Plenty.
Is this a different video? Looks the same as the last one?
More explanations I think. Close to the last one.
Yeah, I shrunk this whole thing down to like 5 minutes last video, but same footage. Just wanted to show the entire build 👌🏽
thank you, there's some good explanations about the parallel/serial setup in the video (I am about to make a simple 12 volt 3P/3S 18650 solar powered outdoor night ligthing setup)
For the current you are going to draw from the pack, you might want to take a closer look at wire sizing. Those look pretty undersized.
Those cells start to overheat at 20a soo it's enough for this pack
Way under sized make sure BMS connection are all same length too 😂
I agree. I had discharge wires 4x as large on my RC helicopter running a 12S setup lol. Higher volts will drop amp load, but you are still shooting alot of watts over those wires.
Multiply the number of cells connected in parallel to the amp output of each individual to get the total current. 12 cells x 20a = 240a capability. Even at 10a each that's 120amps.
Car audio guys build crazy huge lithium battery packs.
They have moved to LTO tech now.
Well, I think I'm going to do it. Build my dream battery for my solar bike. Thanks for the advice. Should I waste a cell playing with the welding settings?
the wires you have are not thick enough for those connectors and your application.
What size should we have used?
@@TheInja I would use 8awg or at least 10 awg but I don't know how much max you are pulling. Those Anderson connectors are rated high voltage and 6 to 8awg
Very satisfying. But I think it's not good idea to stick batteries together when they are in series connection without extra Insulation. When the batteries become hot their plastic cover can be damaged and then the short circuit risk is very high. Don't know maybe I'm too cautious about it.
Awesome! I need a 13.5+ 21a capacity. Now I’m thinking about building one. Debating 50ah or 100ah+.
Very interesting vid! I vote your colleague in this vid for NASA. Hes also got a couple of rockets for arms haha
Lol
@@TheInja How much did you spend in total on the bike including all upgrades
Very nice video, would love to hear how this is holding up. I'm thinking you're asking quite a bit for those wiring sizes and nickel strip over long durations.
4:55 Cute lady alert --- nice parcel of eye-candy in da background there! :D
Thank you soooooo much for the video. It really answered a question I had about how many amps a battery pack can deliver when fully built. I am working on a 16s 13p battery for my Super73 R. Thank you sooo much for your explanation🙏🏾🙏🏾🙏🏾. I definitely subscribed
Those cells are for laptop and other slow drain devices. You’re running a risk of heat induced battery damage and possibly fire drawing the amps needed for an e-bike. Not to mention and electric motorcycle.
They explained what the rated amp draw of the batteries were so no, they’re not running that risk. They’ve already taken the drain rate calculation into account.
@@jsl6155 I checked the specs from the links provided. They are at risk but it’s not my ass that’s going to get burnt. Not like I know what I’m talking about or anything. I only have a 3.5second 0-60mph 12kw nominal hub motor Emmo Proton with 72ah capable of 800 continuous amps. Nah. No clue.
Fresno State Bulldog top....makes sense, they are probably in Silicone Valley. Brains AND brawn.
Great video and project. That's not a battery though, it's more of a ticking bomb.
Dangerous chemistry (would have gone with LiFePo4 instead)
Not enough parallel cells for high current loads (Drawing anything above 2Amps per cell continuously is unsafe)
No gap between the cells (thermal runaway, wear of insulation, possible short)
No proper insulation between groups (possible short)
Balancing cables crossing and all over the place (possible short)
No fuses inside the battery at all (huge short hazard and thermal runaway)
No cooling whatsoever (thermal runaway)
No rigid structure to hold the cells together (protection in a crash)
This is literally asking for a catastrophy and shouldn't even be allowed to get on the street.
Thank you for sharing your project with us but please don't call it "How to" since many people might make the same mistakes afterwards.
"how to" build it like us?
No air gap between cells?? It may or may not explode but performance would definitely get hampered. The inner cells with run hotter than outer ones.
Most your links lead to nothing and probably because the links are 4 years old. But what I would like to ask you guys did the seller send you a spec sheet prior to buying? Because I'm having trouble with every store on Aliexpress that I've asked. Might be a problem with translation, I don't know. But if you was given a spec sheet prior to buying, how did you ask for it because everyone there acts like they have no idea what I'm asking for. Thanks. Great video btw. The explanation on the build couldn't of been said any better. Made perfect sense.
Yeah, they had different spec models to choose from. Ordered a higher spec, got a lower spec anyway.
I know this article is 4 years old But I would like to Add To those reading this That adding a blue tooth Will allow allow Will allow you to monitor those cells and make sure everything stays unbalanced Keeping it cool is extremely important Be careful and Be careful and enjoy
It looks like you've got twice as many parallel connections as you need and you've put your series connections across the top of them. The parallel connections don't carry much current, so you can tac them on as the last step. You should have spot welded the series connections first, and soldered before you spot welded.
Could you explain this a little bit more, I am still struggling with the battery
Lol nerd 🤓
@@CHASEJIMMYMN I am soo sorry for bothering you with my comment, I had no idea asking a question not pointed toward you, would make it feel like I'm bothering you. My dear apologies sir..
@@CHASEJIMMYMN nah this is a channel of a guy who made a motorcycle by himself and he was givinf him some feedback and I was interested
@@diegojosephia just a joke my guy! This is all stuff I don't quite understand so don't be so serious lol
What do you use to charge the pack?
OMG Thank you so much for this video!! I've probably watched 200 videos on battery builds and BMS explanations and all of them combined didn't teach me what I've learned in this video and I'm only at 26:24 right now! I'm building a 20s 8p for my Ebike and you helped me so much!
Hi. Thanks for this great tutorial video.
I was wondering if its easier to build what you did here using 9v batteries. What are the obstacles that you will come across with building a pack with 9v batteries?
Now you could ad more bat. to the bike. Or ad an 3kW onboard charger you can plug in with every houshold plug. so you can coute everywhere for zero cost.;)
Hey brother, I have the same BMS but no wiring diagram for it!! Can you please send me how you wired it please?!?! There are two black wires and I have no idea how to wire it to my batteries!!
Guys, nice project.
The battery pack is capable of about 130A+
But the nickel strips is about 35A.
There's a reason why you need to use copper.
Unless you use 6 layers of nickel strips.
And don't glue them
Each cell touching is a potential fire risk
Hundreds of fire risk.
It's bad having one risk
thank you.i'm from bangladesh,i like your video,nice video,sorry,i'm perfectly not tolking inglish lenguage
great cant get enough from this build.
Maybe this video is amazing for those who don't know about building batteries but for us i saw many mistakes and risks on that build but great job. There will always an improvement for every experience.
have you guys ever messed with a surron 60volt battery?i have one that needs a bms and seem to locate/source a suitable replacement.i believe the cells are capable of 10a output.
you need to add insulator between the groups because there's a risk of fire in there if the wrap they have rubbed and makes a big short, unstoppable fire
what about batter expansion? They will be change size because of heat, cold and usage, didnt they?
batteries do not expande or contract....
I wanna kno what you charge the new pack with .. I need help with that
The big man is not only big in size. Big brain ((c) by @Raptor) as well.
Nice battery build ,discharge leads look a little small though,, I’m running a 3000w motor , however at full throttle it pulls over 8000w , maybe double up on your discharge leads , reduce bottleneck , great video 👍
Appreciate it!
Everyone saying lol, I'm mechanic i learned alot from this one video about the lithium ion.batts one smart fella so not going question, even my lipos with my rc cars cheesy soft high gauge wire that gets hot not even copper so I'm betting even tho thin wire bc its copper .
What size should they be at 8000watts?
At 8000w ,it’s pulling over 100amps ,I used 2 x 10awg silicone wire , with a 200amp Bluetooth BMS ,the BMS monitors power drain ,state of charge and balancing
Thanks for the great video very educational
Only thing I would have done differently is add a layer of capton tape great job
Hello big fan from Costa Rica by any chance do you make the batteries and sell them? Or can some one requests you to make one and buy it?
I love your show.So informative and very helpful .keep up the excellent clean work.
how much do you charge to build a battery for 8000w motor or 12000w motor
...Explosions come later when those cells short out case to case, or overheat du to lack of cooling....
Can I actually connect a 12S battery pack with a 13S battery pack in parallel?
I think the BMS of the 12S stops loading when it is full while the 13s will still charge up.
And when I've run the 13s empty enough, the Bms from the 12s starts up again and both batteries discharge, right?
no extra protection between positive and negative cell it might cause fire later once cell peeled due to rubbing or heat.
I'm trying to charge the 20S battery from my EUC separately without the mother board connections. it's got two small (black and red) wires but they have no voltage. I have the original 84V charger. Can I just connect to the battery output and charge it that way? I think the battery might be only 1P
what is that black wire on that bms glued to it is?
Did you consider putting any temp sensors into the pack? While I understand the advantages of hot glueing for compactness of the pack, I wonder about thermal considerations under high load for extended periods of time. That’s why I think it can be a good idea to use the black plastic spacers so you at least have an air gap for heat dissipation, even if it’s only passive. Of course if you want to get higher speed and longer range, then eventually you need to at least add a heat sink and eventually active heat management whether forced air or liquid cooling.
but only 1 hour run time right ?
At full capacity and thats when create heat
That would be a good idea, if your ran it at 70km per hour for 1 hour long. Maybe drill some holes in the battery holder frame in the front and back. Get some air flow.
@@paulclancy2404 The 1 hour of full power is only in theory.
Did you add copper wire on series connection or i am wrong. If somebody can help me i dont know how much thickness i need for my battery pack. I will use 16S 7P. Max dischrage of one cell is 10A. I suppose i need 10mm×0.15mm and add copper wire on series connection
Which charger are you using to test the capacity of the 18650 cells. Could you send a link to the charger , I am planning on making a go kart using these cells.
Oh, sure! I'll add the link when I can
why do you need such a high amp BMS? surely the cells won't drift by enough to balance with much less than 1 amp per cell, 13 amps at worst case for 13P. if they're drifting faster than that you need to rebuild the pack with better matched cells
SIN LOS SEPARADORES PARA CADA PILA Y PEGANDOLAS DE ESA MANERA ESA BATERIA NO ESTA LEJOS DE SER UNA BOMBA AL NO TENER COMO DISIPAR EL CALOR ,,,,,,TAMBIEN LAS VIBRACIONES PUEDEN DESPEGAR EL PEGAMENTO Y EL USAR TANTO ESTAÑO ES MUY MALO NO SOPRTA VIBRACIONES NI CALOR ,,TAMBIEN DEBERIAS PONER UN BALANCEADOR ACTIVO EN PARALELO CON EL BMS
Great job and interesting video. Unfortunately what I can't get past, is that ever one of those cells and welds is a protentional point of failure. I'd much prefer larger cell and less welds.
Did you charge all of them in that 2 cell charger ?
is it necessary to weld every serial connection if you've already welded every parallel line?
We did it to minimize resistance!
I've heard from a lot of sources to not buy off-brand 18650 cells. Only Samsung, Sony, LG batteries will work for an EV. What's your experience using the Lanzhd batteries?
Imagine that you guys put that Tesla insanity module on there... lol 💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽
Great video. May I ask you a question? I have a device using INR 18650 batteries. But I cannot find them on the market; I only find 18650 batteries (comparable voltage and mah). Can I use these ones for my device? Thanks
how mAH is the the battery that use?and the name of the battery thanks.
no hot glue specialy on thet huge pack FIRE HEAT KILLS BATTERIES it can make fire amd explode thats why spacers egsist BAD DESITION SUPER BAD
Could a battery like that be found as is.. i mean all together?
people don’t realize that all common battery packs consist of 100’s or even thousands of the small 18650 cells. A Tesla car has over 6000 batteries.. crazy.
Just a suggestion. I hope you can do a postmortem for us on the original battery pack. You mentioned a broken charge wire and dead cells.
Yeah, still figuring it out :)
Where did you get your charger from?
Hi
I know this is 3 years old and the link for the batteries is no longer available. I’m just curious about the shipping it seems the shipping cost almost as much as the batteries so $200 for the batteries and $150-$200 to ship the batteries did you have this issue?
Ty for your time
So what did all the batterys cost to make this battery ? And what dose one of those brain boxs cast like for a VIVI folding 36v 8ah 350w . I don't want to burn up my new bike i used to go about 20 - 25 miles with the tbattery that came with the bike now i get 2 .miles. .I also bought a spare battery 130 bucks. and it.s going to junk pretty fast.. Would you or could you build me a battery for my bike that would go 60 miles on a charge all it would need is too be is shrink wraped ? I don.t care how heavy and big is is . I can make an extention cord for my XT60H -M and XT60 H - H plugs to my bike trailer.. Please let me know . Thanks Steve.
Great video guys, so much helpful information absolutely loved it. just one question, how is the degradation of the pack?
Why are nominal voltages either 3.6v or 3.7v. I have Samsung 18650 cells (2500mAh) that are labeled 3.6v.
How are you charging this pack? I want to make a pack like this too but the charging solution is eluding me
Can you sell me one... My motorcycle got stolen & I trust that you guys are offering the best Quality
There is absolutely NO 18650 batteries that have a capacity of 3400mah that is capable of 30A output which is what the site claims these are capable of, certainly not for continous current.
Hey guys very impressive watching this sped up you two look like robots. That would be something you guys need to do is start a company with robots doing a lot of that and you guys can start collecting some moooolaaaa. I’m sure someone out there is trying to find away to do that.I’m sure you would need some people to do different things to make those batteries. But I’m sure a robot could do a lot of the connections and glueing and laying down the nickel strips. If you guys do that you better let me know so I can get my cut. Lol. It’s great to have two doing all that work. That makes it nice to takes turns doing the different jobs for building such a massive battery. Can’t wait for more videos guys. I love motorcycle so this is so awesome making a E- cycle can’t really call it a motorcycle now. I have a stealth bomber and did some customization to it and put on some after market parts on it. It looks like a dirt bike with pedals with the fenders an all. It’s pretty cool I’m going to make a video of it real soon. Just waiting for the weather to get warmer. It’s been really cold and cloudy and raining where I live. Awesome job fellas very nicely done and well thought out. Ride safe and always wear your riding gear and always wear gloves and a helmet. Take care and God Bless.
I don't think so that is the best way to make ebike battery
1 With out positive insulators
2 Gap between each cells to escape heat
As per my knowledge
Still exploring
Thanks
that battery packaging looks sketchy.. i don't trust batteries from any seller. I just assume they're all fake until proven otherwise. Jehu garcias make a good video on testing battery capacity. Just because the capacity looks good doesn't mean they're legit. Discharge them at their rated discharge rates while measuring temps to see if they are over heating is a better test to see if the batteries are legit. But then again 99% of people out there just won't do that (I prob won't either lol)
Where can we get the battery diagram? I think you said power point you have.
Lord Curt made it, so it's not available on the internets
COOL built, but you need to use spacers and NOT glue, if that battery pack goes wrong it wil go realy wrong realy fast. And there is a bigger chance for everything to go wrong this way
(not watching your video 1 min in already seeing a no no)
you do not let 18650 cells touch especially on a motorcycle build your asking for trouble let me tell you why the reason we use insulator rings on the positive end of the cell is cause if my nickle strip touches the edge of the positive side of the cell (most peopl don't know the negative side runss all the way up to the edge of the battery cell) don't belive me peel one 18650 cell touch the side with a meteal clip and touch the positive sidewith that same clip you will get a spark) cell spacers are very cheap (about the same as hot glue) why are you cutting corners on a motorcycle you must want a fire between your legs
plus cell spacers give the battery some protection against friction and fall protection
😬 hot glue binding cells instead of cell bridges. Cringe alert! That expensive of a build and didn't splurge on another 20$ for bridges?
These aren't the same types of batteries they use in EV cars with long range are they? I would attempt this to boost the range of my TailG Astra but these battery types are highly inefficient compared to what car manufacturers are using these days to get those 400+ kilometer ranges.
The title of this video is misleading, this is not a how-to video.
It's showing you guys building something and giving slight explanations but it doesn't show us step by step how to.
Like how to connect the balancing wires for instance and where to put them
i need 72v 49ah 5000w with 150ah + bms how much for enduro frame
Hi i subcriber i just need a battery for my enduro ebike qs 205 v3 5000w wish one i need for if you selling I bought from you