For the DIYer, this is some of the best step by step on how to apply thinset mortar Ive ever seen. You cover all bases yet are patient enough to go slowly. Thank you doe your video. I came across this video as I was looking for the correct mortar to use in transitions between existing dry wall and new fiber boards.
Thank you so much. We are so pleased with how our shower turned out. It was so worth it. Good luck with your shower and again, thank you for taking the time to post such a nice comment 😊
Thank you so much Adam for taking the time to leave us such an encouraging comment. The shower and the whole bathroom for that matter is such a clean, more open and more peaceful space to be in now that it’s completed 😊
Great video. My question is this. After you tape and fill your joints with thinset, let that dry and put a level to the wall, is your cementboard wall still plumb end to end? Thinset adds another layer to the cement board, and it's no longer super level. Is this a concern, if one is to use large tiles for a shower wall.
It was such a small amount that it sticked out that it wasn’t a concern. It was still plumb enough. Remember you are putting thin set behind the tiles as you set them and should be using a tile leveling and spacer system of some type to avoid lipping. With larger sized tiles there is a little bit more mortar you apply behind the tiles than with smaller sized tiles; this gives little wiggle room to help plumb things 😊
Excellent video this is the step I am at and man there seems to be soooooo much gray area. Thanks for this video as it is what I was thinking I'd have to do . Including the adding support to some areas .
Thanks! And your welcome! Definitely a lot of gray area! Our shower still looks like new, knock ✊ on wood 😂. Good luck with your project; you got this 👍😊
newbie question here: what can be used as thinset? is mapei kerabond ok? Im in Canada and the hardare store doesnt have something specifically called thinset mortar?
Depends on what you used for your substrate that you will tile over. There’s a man in Canada with lots of videos with one of his channels called home renovision diy. He will have vids on this subject with Canadian products. He would be a great resource for Canada questions 😊
Great job, informative video. One quick question Haven't checkdd comments yet, outside corner drywall meets cement board cement board will have tile, obviously drywall eventually painted, also will be doing tile profiles on edges but... getting ready to tape CB seams and fill with thinset
Thanks for watching and posting a comment. I'm not sure what you're asking. Are you wondering if you can tile over where the drywall mud is feathered over the cement board some? My understanding is that it is ok if it is on the edge area where it won't get much water. We did seal the grout and are going to try to reseal it every year or two. So maybe that will help things to last.
@@gardeninggptx Great question. We used TEC 383 polymer mortified mortar white ultimate large tile mortar. Because we installed large porcelain tiles and this was available in our area this is what we purchased. Thanks for watching our videos 😊
@@gardeninggptx Great question. We used TEC 383 polymer mortified mortar white ultimate large tile mortar. Because we installed large porcelain tiles and this was available in our area this is what we purchased. Thanks for watching our videos 😊
Thanks man. I like the video a lot. I have more to learn and research but you’ve showed me the best information I’ve seen so far. I’ll watch again but what was the specific adhesive brand and name you’re using in the joints, if you can answer? I enjoyed how you were able to admit a potential small mistake you made after
Thank you TEC 383 polymer mortified mortar white ultimate large tile mortar. Because we installed large porcelain tiles and this was available in our area this is what we used 😊
Sorry I never answered your question! I noticed your question today and I was going to answer it but I don’t understand it. I’m not sure what your asking concerning a “Sheetrock mallet”.
Thank you TEC 383 polymer mortified mortar white ultimate large tile mortar. Because we are going to soon be installing large porcelain tiles and this was available in our area this is what we purchased
So what's the point of leaving a 1/4" gap on the perimeters of hardibacker if you then fill it with thinset? I thought you want it to be able to move around?
I actually called James Hardie about this today and they said DO NOT fill the 1/4" gap on the perimeter of each wall, AKA the corners. The guy said leave it open or use caulk. FYI
I used silicone caulk. I can’t speak from experience on what’s best. I think if I had to do it again I probably would have used same method with the tape and thin set. I just released a short RedGard waterproofing video where I talk a little on how the RedGard adhered to the silicone caulk. See below for video link and please consider subscribing if you haven’t yet. Thanks for watching. ua-cam.com/video/36aXW2M5Qyk/v-deo.html
I’m assuming by joint compound you mean Sheetrock compound. I would recommend not using it but I’m glad it worked out for you. I would recommend using the same mortar appropriate for use with your tiles. Thanks for watching 😊
Great question. We used TEC 383 polymer mortified mortar white ultimate large tile mortar. Because we installed large porcelain tiles and this was available in our area this is what we purchased. Thanks for watching our videos 😊
It was a while ago but I think it was to close up any cracks or open areas to keep daddy long leg spiders from coming in from the attic until caulking/tiling😂
2nd coat really not necessary. Also first coat doesn’t have to be pretty.. just flat as possible. As long as the surface is flat, the liquid waterproofing will have no problem. Liq waterproof is extremely flexible when cured.. so even a half ass job will get you excellent results.
@@MrLaptopus Just so I understand, so on the very leftist and also on the very right side where the drywall mud slightly overlaps onto the cement board before tiling then that is a bad idea?
That’s a great question. I believe some of them do have flex in them, but I’m honestly not sure. I did a little research after reading your question and I’m still not sure. If it were me I would error on the side of caution and not. Sorry that I couldn’t answer your question with certainty.
Great question. I can’t see it and I don’t know for sure but my gut says if possible add the tape with some thin set to avoid cracking of tiles. You got this 😊
I actually called James Hardie about this and they said DO NOT fill the 1/4" gap in the corners with thinset, as it defeats the purpose of leaving the gap. Yes, you use the tape and waterproof. Then, when you tile afterwards, you're supposed to caulk those corners. You never use thinset or grout in the corners.
Like most rando people on youtube, he did this wrong. He used the wrong tape for the cement board. The mortar and cement board will eat that tape and the joints will eventually fail. He also appears to have the screws too far apart.The tub spout has no support so it is a very likely place for it to fail and start leaking. He also spent a lot of time on things that were completely pointless. When you put tile in, you will be covering the entire wall with thinset, so trying to go in and make it all perfect before hand it a waste of time.
You’re entitled to your opinion, but I would have to disagree with your assessment. I am not, nor have I ever said I am a professional. I am very particular by nature and a homeowner that has done a wide variety of projects. When I’m in doubt I have conferred with friends that are professionals in the trades. If you don’t like the info, just scroll on. 👍🏼
For the DIYer, this is some of the best step by step on how to apply thinset mortar Ive ever seen. You cover all bases yet are patient enough to go slowly. Thank you doe your video. I came across this video as I was looking for the correct mortar to use in transitions between existing dry wall and new fiber boards.
Thank you so much. We are so pleased with how our shower turned out. It was so worth it. Good luck with your shower and again, thank you for taking the time to post such a nice comment 😊
Very informative. Good lighting, decent audio, good editing. Thanks for taking the time to make this video!
Thank you so much Adam for taking the time to leave us such an encouraging comment. The shower and the whole bathroom for that matter is such a clean, more open and more peaceful space to be in now that it’s completed 😊
Awesome video🩷 absolutely what I was looking for! Thanks from New Zealand 🙂
That’s awesome, so glad it was helpful! Cheers from Wisconsin!
Great video.
My question is this.
After you tape and fill your joints with thinset, let that dry and put a level to the wall, is your cementboard wall still plumb end to end? Thinset adds another layer to the cement board, and it's no longer super level. Is this a concern, if one is to use large tiles for a shower wall.
It was such a small amount that it sticked out that it wasn’t a concern. It was still plumb enough. Remember you are putting thin set behind the tiles as you set them and should be using a tile leveling and spacer system of some type to avoid lipping.
With larger sized tiles there is a little bit more mortar you apply behind the tiles than with smaller sized tiles; this gives little wiggle room to help plumb things 😊
Excellent video this is the step I am at and man there seems to be soooooo much gray area. Thanks for this video as it is what I was thinking I'd have to do . Including the adding support to some areas .
Thanks! And your welcome!
Definitely a lot of gray area!
Our shower still looks like new, knock ✊ on wood 😂.
Good luck with your project; you got this 👍😊
Pretty darn good instructual video better than a lot of pros videos.
Thanks and Thanks for taking the time to Post such a nice comment 😊
Just followed your tips mate. Thank you for your advice. Much appreciated!
newbie question here: what can be used as thinset? is mapei kerabond ok? Im in Canada and the hardare store doesnt have something specifically called thinset mortar?
Depends on what you used for your substrate that you will tile over. There’s a man in Canada with lots of videos with one of his channels called home renovision diy. He will have vids on this subject with Canadian products. He would be a great resource for Canada questions 😊
Great job, informative video. One quick question Haven't checkdd comments yet, outside corner drywall meets cement board cement board will have tile, obviously drywall eventually painted, also will be doing tile profiles on edges but... getting ready to tape CB seams and fill with thinset
Thanks for watching and posting a comment. I'm not sure what you're asking. Are you wondering if you can tile over where the drywall mud is feathered over the cement board some? My understanding is that it is ok if it is on the edge area where it won't get much water. We did seal the grout and are going to try to reseal it every year or two. So maybe that will help things to last.
@@SilverLiningDayDreams what brand of thinset did you use over the tape and seams?
@@gardeninggptx Great question. We used TEC 383 polymer mortified mortar white ultimate large tile mortar. Because we installed large porcelain tiles and this was available in our area this is what we purchased. Thanks for watching our videos 😊
@@gardeninggptx Great question. We used TEC 383 polymer mortified mortar white ultimate large tile mortar. Because we installed large porcelain tiles and this was available in our area this is what we purchased. Thanks for watching our videos 😊
Thanks man. I like the video a lot. I have more to learn and research but you’ve showed me the best information I’ve seen so far. I’ll watch again but what was the specific adhesive brand and name you’re using in the joints, if you can answer? I enjoyed how you were able to admit a potential small mistake you made after
Thank you
TEC 383 polymer mortified mortar white ultimate large tile mortar. Because we installed large porcelain tiles and this was available in our area this is what we used 😊
Very detailed and easy to follow information. Thank you
Thanks. After I install the plumbing fixtures we will be having a bathroom reveal video of the entire bathroom renovation. Stay tuned
one question can you do the same with regular sheerock mallet
Sorry I never answered your question!
I noticed your question today and I was going to answer it but I don’t understand it. I’m not sure what your asking concerning a “Sheetrock mallet”.
What type of membrane waterproofing did you use over this?
RedGard
Here’s the video link to our video on how we applied it…
ua-cam.com/video/36aXW2M5Qyk/v-deo.html
Why not prefill then put tape on and smooth out?
HI! Very informative... Sorry, for stupid Question! But I need to know exactly, name off mortar your yuse..., Tnanks
Thank you TEC 383 polymer mortified mortar white ultimate large tile mortar. Because we are going to soon be installing large porcelain tiles and this was available in our area this is what we purchased
@@SilverLiningDayDreams Thank you, for answer. Best wishes, be Happy and Helthy
You too! Best of luck with the remodel!
So what's the point of leaving a 1/4" gap on the perimeters of hardibacker if you then fill it with thinset? I thought you want it to be able to move around?
Thinset has both flexibility and bond strength, so it has some give 😊
I actually called James Hardie about this today and they said DO NOT fill the 1/4" gap on the perimeter of each wall, AKA the corners. The guy said leave it open or use caulk. FYI
He said tape the corners and go over it with thinset but do not fill the crack in the corner (or floor for that matter) with thinset.
what did you do at the bottom between the tub and the board? did you use the same method? just about to install my own.
I used silicone caulk. I can’t speak from experience on what’s best. I think if I had to do it again I probably would have used same method with the tape and thin set. I just released a short RedGard waterproofing video where I talk a little on how the RedGard adhered to the silicone caulk. See below for video link and please consider subscribing if you haven’t yet. Thanks for watching.
ua-cam.com/video/36aXW2M5Qyk/v-deo.html
How many many coats of mortar did you apply on the joints? 2 coats?
One coat is typical. I did a second coat to more feather in just a couple areas. Thanks for watching
Where did you purchase the joint tape? Thanks!
It was either Menards or Home Depot. I think Menards but I forgot, sorry
Great info and looks fantastic.
Thanks 😊
*****Great video. Had to watch again. Lots of great information
Thank you!
Can you use 45 minutes joint compound for the seams .. I have use it before and works good too.. of course I paint red water proofing
I’m assuming by joint compound you mean Sheetrock compound. I would recommend not using it but I’m glad it worked out for you. I would recommend using the same mortar appropriate for use with your tiles. Thanks for watching 😊
@@SilverLiningDayDreams thank you so much for your help I appreciated
What type and brand of thinset are you using for the joints? Thx
Great question. We used TEC 383 polymer mortified mortar white ultimate large tile mortar. Because we installed large porcelain tiles and this was available in our area this is what we purchased. Thanks for watching our videos 😊
@@SilverLiningDayDreams thx man! So just the exact same thinset u use for the tiles?
That’s what I did and it worked out fine; but I don’t know for sure what the “official” recommendation is.
@@SilverLiningDayDreams thx!
What's the green tape?
It was a while ago but I think it was to close up any cracks or open areas to keep daddy long leg spiders from coming in from the attic until caulking/tiling😂
Very helpful. Thanks. 👍
Your welcome 😊
Great video. Really. But you have to give the cleaning lady her bucket pack.
Thanks! I’ll let my wife know 😂
Great video. Very helpful
Thank you!
Excellent video !!!
Thanks for the kind words and thanks for watching 😊
Do apply thin set to corners, then tape, then thin set. Adhesive tape not required.
Thanks for leaving us a comment with your thoughts 😊
Super helpful. Thank you.
You're welcome! Glad it was helpful!!!
2nd coat really not necessary. Also first coat doesn’t have to be pretty.. just flat as possible. As long as the surface is flat, the liquid waterproofing will have no problem. Liq waterproof is extremely flexible when cured.. so even a half ass job will get you excellent results.
Cool Man thanks
Your welcome! 😊
you can't use setting joint compound instead?
No, probably not gonna hold up
sorry that I missed your comment. What should I have used?
@@SilverLiningDayDreams probably thinset
@@MrLaptopus Just so I understand, so on the very leftist and also on the very right side where the drywall mud slightly overlaps onto the cement board before tiling then that is a bad idea?
Instead of using thinset mortar, can I use concrete patch to seal the edges of the cement board ?
That’s a great question. I believe some of them do have flex in them, but I’m honestly not sure. I did a little research after reading your question and I’m still not sure. If it were me I would error on the side of caution and not. Sorry that I couldn’t answer your question with certainty.
Very informative!
Thanks Bud! You made our day! You’ll have to let us know what you think when you come over!
Thanks, I'll do what you did...
Your welcome 😊
You got this!
Very informative.
Thanks, Hoping soon to do a completed reveal video of the bathroom.
Very helpful video. Thanks
You bet! Glad you enjoyed it and found it helpful!
I forgot to mesh tape all joints and just applied thinset... Is it okay to leave like that???
Great question. I can’t see it and I don’t know for sure but my gut says if possible add the tape with some thin set to avoid cracking of tiles. You got this 😊
I actually called James Hardie about this and they said DO NOT fill the 1/4" gap in the corners with thinset, as it defeats the purpose of leaving the gap. Yes, you use the tape and waterproof. Then, when you tile afterwards, you're supposed to caulk those corners. You never use thinset or grout in the corners.
Like most rando people on youtube, he did this wrong. He used the wrong tape for the cement board. The mortar and cement board will eat that tape and the joints will eventually fail. He also appears to have the screws too far apart.The tub spout has no support so it is a very likely place for it to fail and start leaking. He also spent a lot of time on things that were completely pointless. When you put tile in, you will be covering the entire wall with thinset, so trying to go in and make it all perfect before hand it a waste of time.
You’re entitled to your opinion, but I would have to disagree with your assessment.
I am not, nor have I ever said I am a professional. I am very particular by nature and a homeowner that
has done a wide variety of projects. When I’m in doubt I have conferred with friends that are professionals in the trades.
If you don’t like the info, just scroll on. 👍🏼
Am contractor he did a excellent job the best I have seen
Please don’t follow the extra nonsense at the end. Thinset and mesh tape will not strengthen a spongy wall!
Thanks for sharing your opinion. We do feel it made a slight difference that made it worthwhile to do! 🙂