Thank you! I just fixed my A/C that has been down for 2 days after figuring out 1 of 2 fuses was blown going to the Air Conditioner so I was only getting 120v out of 240. $25 later and my AC is alive again!
Awesome video I’m about to graduate from the course that I’ve been in for a year for Hvac and here in Texas a lot of people keep complaining that the air-conditioning stopped working and we noticed that it is a lot of capacitors going out. I haven’t worked on anyones condensers yet but I made a guess when I saw a video that someone sent me where the OFM is on and the compressor is humming and the suction line wasn’t cold at all. I told her it could be the CAP and when someone came out to fix it that was the issue. I’m going to see your video on testing capacitors just to get a little more knowledge but I know the secret of using the multimeter to test for capacitance and the formula for testing capacitance while energizing the CAP.
Great video. Only thing I would have added is that after jumping across the capacitor with a resistor, would be to verify that the DC voltage (NOT AC voltage) from terminal C to HERM is zero and terminal C to FAN is zero. Don't forget to switch your voltmeter to DC for these readings.
@@rockchaney3209 Switching your meter to DC is a safety check you would do before disconnecting any wires to the cap, making sure the cap did not have any DC voltage stored in it. (Shock or electrocution hazard) Then you would check the capacitance of the cap after this safety check.
Very nice tutorial about troubleshooting. AC unit that i can apply for my work here in Saudi i alway watch and follow to your HVAC SCHOOL. Thanks you very much sir. And God bless you.
Good refresher. Never a fun surprise when the customer said they shut off the AC breaker for you because there's no disconnect outside and it was the dryer instead.
Me too, I watch Brian and others so much getting ready to start apprenticship, I sometimes dream I'm in class. Or effing up a job and getting yelled at. lol
When it's 115 out safety checks sometimes are not done. Don't be that guy and never trust a disconnect box to disconnect. I promise if you do electrol mechanical work long enough you'll eventually come across a failed or by-passed disconnect box.
Hey thanks so much for the video! I've subscribed! In the beginning you "Test to make sure each leg has no voltage to ground" but then you just fast foward to showing the meter. Not sure where you are putting the leads to?
What do you mean when you mention back feed? Where the potential difference comes from when you measure between winding and ground when the contractor is open ?
I could never see exactly where you placed your voltmeter leads especially when you pulled the disconnect and stuck the voltmeter tips in where???? First you said you got 240volts then you said you didn't get any volts. WHERE did you stick those things to get those readings????
I watched a hvac video on youtube where the guy claims you can discharge the capacitor (unit off) by measuring voltage (com to fan and com to herm)..I asked him about that since made zero sense to me and he said there is a resistor built into the meter and by measuring voltage it bleeds the capacitor. To me makes zero sense but curious if you have ever heard of such a thing? Btw, excellent video
So let’s say my disconnect is pulled and i get reading from hot and ground is it safe to say i have an issue with the disconnect? Because if pulled why else would I have voltage at hot and ground which is ur total volts between the impedance from the wire plus the voltage at the contactor itself?
Was working on a unit today and touched the two incoming leads to verify 240v with my meter and there was a very large shock/arc. What caused this? It melted the ends of my leads 😅
Just want to confirm that I have a bad coil switch. I do not have the 24 volts across the switch. I have 249 coming into L1 and L2. But nothing coming out of L1 and L2
A note on the safety of pulling the carts before the panel: To some guys it might be second nature when you see a unit that's having problems to be like "Well let's yank the panel and see what we got." I had a case on my own unit where the guy did that and discovered a badly mounted hard start with the terminals resting against the panel. It could have just as easily been a wire burned off and sprung out to the panel. The gods forgave him that time but just WOW. This was the same guy that left the caps off when he was done. And this was from a locally well respected relatively high end company. Go figure.
That's a good point. I was trying to think of a strict safety procedure for approach. Seems to me, you'd sweep the disconnect and unit with a NCV (non-contact voltage) detector to verify no skin voltage. Open and pull the disconnect. Verify line voltage, then with onr probe go to the unit chassis from one of the lines to verify the ground bond is intact. Then from the chassis to each of the load side disconnect contact to verify no voltage to ground. Then open up the unit. Maybe that's full paranoid, but you develop practice for that one time you come across a fault.
@@jkbrown5496 yes, the thing is the hot terminal might not even come into electrical contact with the panel until you begin to remove it, in which case it is no longer grounded.
I'm lost on the part where the contactor is OPEN, but there is still 120 on each leg of the system. Where is that power coming from.??? Is it back feeding from the CAP until it's discharged?? L1 and l2 are cut off via the contactor.!
The contactor only breaks one of the supply wires. The other wire carries the 120- volts into the compressor and fan motors and back out to the contactor. As there is no current flowing as the contactor is open then you have no voltage drop throught the motors and you get 120 like you are measuring. Hope this helps. Think about it untill the penny drops
Why didn't I get into HVAC trade instead of getting my juris doctorate lol the price these days having a technician looks at my AC unit is just too much anymore
@@mrgreen9086 If properly-working disconnect is pulled out, no high voltage should be present going to the unit. (However, capacitor(s) may still be charged.) If there is a breaker-switch in the box on the outside of the house, then never assume that the breaker is functioning properly. Always check inside the unit like Brian did.
Lol..well you might now how to fix things however you are not an experienced spokesperson ..you explain it as if everyone has experience with electricity and hvac..which makes you a terrible salesman
Great video thank you
I been in HVAC over 30 years see you are wearing your wedding 💑 ring is very dangerous working electrical great video
Thank you. It's always nice refresher with a cup of coffee in the morning on my way to the first call.
Absolutely!!
Reign energy drink and protein bars for me
@@youknowwhatdaysayinhoe5646 You know what's up
Thank you! I just fixed my A/C that has been down for 2 days after figuring out 1 of 2 fuses was blown going to the Air Conditioner so I was only getting 120v out of 240. $25 later and my AC is alive again!
Great video. No messing around with useless information. Straight to the point and educational. Good job!
Brian does a great job teaching! Thank you!
Simple yet to the point! Appreciate you taking the time to make an informative video. Thank you!
Clear, concise and informative narration and video. This video should be the benchmark for others making DIY or tutorial maintenance videos.
Great video. I love your basic videos where you dont assume any knowledge. Thank you.
Awesome video I’m about to graduate from the course that I’ve been in for a year for Hvac and here in Texas a lot of people keep complaining that the air-conditioning stopped working and we noticed that it is a lot of capacitors going out. I haven’t worked on anyones condensers yet but I made a guess when I saw a video that someone sent me where the OFM is on and the compressor is humming and the suction line wasn’t cold at all. I told her it could be the CAP and when someone came out to fix it that was the issue. I’m going to see your video on testing capacitors just to get a little more knowledge but I know the secret of using the multimeter to test for capacitance and the formula for testing capacitance while energizing the CAP.
Finishing school in Florida. Let’s get it bro!!!!
That was a lot of good info in a very short presentation, great stuff
Great video. Only thing I would have added is that after jumping across the capacitor with a resistor, would be to verify that the DC voltage (NOT AC voltage) from terminal C to HERM is zero and terminal C to FAN is zero. Don't forget to switch your voltmeter to DC for these readings.
Why would you ever switch into DC? Microfarance or nothing
@@rockchaney3209 Switching your meter to DC is a safety check you would do before disconnecting any wires to the cap, making sure the cap did not have any DC voltage stored in it. (Shock or electrocution hazard) Then you would check the capacitance of the cap after this safety check.
Thank you for your Time & Video. It is very clearly and Easy for understanding. God always Bless you.
Very nice tutorial about troubleshooting. AC unit that i can apply for my work here in Saudi i alway watch and follow to your HVAC SCHOOL. Thanks you very much sir. And God bless you.
I learned something but not enough for it to stick, I gotta reach watch your video again later and keep you updated with a new comment question lol
Very well explained barely got a new job at hvac!
Just what I needed to see. Thanks Brian!
awesome video. makes learning hvac so much easier
Such a great basic explanation. Thanks
Great work I learn alor from your postcast 🙌🏻
Just subscribe from engineering mindset and I love the channels and contents so far.
It's one of the best
Amazing. Thank you for the lesson.
Good refresher. Never a fun surprise when the customer said they shut off the AC breaker for you because there's no disconnect outside and it was the dryer instead.
At the breaker can you show what exactly your connecting to what?
FROM CHICAGO EXELENT THANK YOU SO MUCH
Great video. Just to confirm. 24 V coming from inside is AC or DC?
Bryan, I've watched your videos so much I'm having dreams of you teaching me. LOL
That’s creepy, get a life
Me too, I watch Brian and others so much getting ready to start apprenticship, I sometimes dream I'm in class. Or effing up a job and getting yelled at. lol
@@furnaceguy7239 no you
@@resurgensix that's awesome! If you need any help get free to reach out
@@resurgensix Learn as much as you can as fast as you can and never stop. You'll be great.
Thanks for a great video 👍 .
Thank you !
When it's 115 out safety checks sometimes are not done. Don't be that guy and never trust a disconnect box to disconnect. I promise if you do electrol mechanical work long enough you'll eventually come across a failed or by-passed disconnect box.
Hey thanks so much for the video! I've subscribed! In the beginning you "Test to make sure each leg has no voltage to ground" but then you just fast foward to showing the meter. Not sure where you are putting the leads to?
I'm learning diy hvac. Fascinating. Very informative. Thanks for sharing. Much Blessings to you. 🙏 Lord-Jesus-Christ ✝c✝o✝m
What do you mean when you mention back feed? Where the potential difference comes from when you measure between winding and ground when the contractor is open ?
lOVELY i LOVE UR EXPLANATIONS
I’m not even a rookie but if disconnect is pulled where is high voltage coming from?
Have You ever think on translate the Channel to spanish.this one is really good
More videos like this please
Thanks Bryan! Why does 123 plus 123 equal 214?
Is it because source is three phase? Can you tell my mind is stuck on residential split phase?
@@chuckdearruda6271 short answer is its an rms reading not just adding the voltage together
@@chuckdearruda6271 I was thinking 214 was low, then it hit me that it's 208v system at a commercial/light industrial site. 123.5v x srt (3) = 214v
Wonderful demo
I could never see exactly where you placed your voltmeter leads especially when you pulled the disconnect and stuck the voltmeter tips in where???? First you said you got 240volts then you said you didn't get any volts. WHERE did you stick those things to get those readings????
I watched a hvac video on youtube where the guy claims you can discharge the capacitor (unit off) by measuring voltage (com to fan and com to herm)..I asked him about that since made zero sense to me and he said there is a resistor built into the meter and by measuring voltage it bleeds the capacitor. To me makes zero sense but curious if you have ever heard of such a thing? Btw, excellent video
Thanks for the video =)
Nice job and video like always
How did you have 24 volts applied across the contactor if you pulled the disconnect ?
The transformer is on the inside unit and sends 24 volts through thermostat wire to outside unit
Good video Brian
You forgot to tell us the disconnect was plugged back in test your voltage
Good teaching
was the appliance re-energized at some point in the video ?
Thanks for showing where to measure that disconnect 😅
God i love this so much
So let’s say my disconnect is pulled and i get reading from hot and ground is it safe to say i have an issue with the disconnect? Because if pulled why else would I have voltage at hot and ground which is ur total volts between the impedance from the wire plus the voltage at the contactor itself?
Awesome 😎
Great vid but I can't get my disconnect to come out and I don't want to pull the entire thing off the wall, any idea's please ???? thank you....
So it’s like reading the same line?
Was working on a unit today and touched the two incoming leads to verify 240v with my meter and there was a very large shock/arc. What caused this? It melted the ends of my leads 😅
I'm having an issue with a new install and the indoor unit is not turning on. Wonder if you can help please
What if the contactor is active with the power off??
Just want to confirm that I have a bad coil switch. I do not have the 24 volts across the switch. I have 249 coming into L1 and L2. But nothing coming out of L1 and L2
Thank you bruv.
Also, is your voltmeter good for measuring MFD or uF?
I have the one he used in the video, and yes it does
A note on the safety of pulling the carts before the panel:
To some guys it might be second nature when you see a unit that's having problems to be like "Well let's yank the panel and see what we got." I had a case on my own unit where the guy did that and discovered a badly mounted hard start with the terminals resting against the panel. It could have just as easily been a wire burned off and sprung out to the panel. The gods forgave him that time but just WOW. This was the same guy that left the caps off when he was done. And this was from a locally well respected relatively high end company. Go figure.
That's a good point. I was trying to think of a strict safety procedure for approach. Seems to me, you'd sweep the disconnect and unit with a NCV (non-contact voltage) detector to verify no skin voltage. Open and pull the disconnect. Verify line voltage, then with onr probe go to the unit chassis from one of the lines to verify the ground bond is intact. Then from the chassis to each of the load side disconnect contact to verify no voltage to ground. Then open up the unit. Maybe that's full paranoid, but you develop practice for that one time you come across a fault.
@@jkbrown5496 yes, the thing is the hot terminal might not even come into electrical contact with the panel until you begin to remove it, in which case it is no longer grounded.
Can’t find the capacitor unit running formulas on the app?
I like the video , but the reading are not very clear...
I love you ❤️
Thank you for the no-no sense video
There is stray voltage because the meter is not reading 0 volts. It's reading a tiny load of voltage.
Bryan, where’s the formula to measure the capacitor?
I'm lost on the part where the contactor is OPEN, but there is still 120 on each leg of the system.
Where is that power coming from.??? Is it back feeding from the CAP until it's discharged??
L1 and l2 are cut off via the contactor.!
The contactor only breaks one of the supply wires. The other wire carries the 120- volts into the compressor and fan motors and back out to the contactor. As there is no current flowing as the contactor is open then you have no voltage drop throught the motors and you get 120 like you are measuring. Hope this helps. Think about it untill the penny drops
@@michaelcostello6991 yes it helps alot thank you!!
Why didn't I get into HVAC trade instead of getting my juris doctorate lol the price these days having a technician looks at my AC unit is just too much anymore
Show us how to check for diagnostic purposes please 😁
Why check voltage to the contractor after confirming no voltage to ground from the disconnect? Unless it's for the demonstration purposes
It is what is called "best practices."
@@MaMa-qh4dy that's true, but I'm wondering if its possible for voltage to still be present after checking the disconnect box for voltage to ground
@@mrgreen9086 If properly-working disconnect is pulled out, no high voltage should be present going to the unit. (However, capacitor(s) may still be charged.) If there is a breaker-switch in the box on the outside of the house, then never assume that the breaker is functioning properly. Always check inside the unit like Brian did.
@@MaMa-qh4dy that makes sense thank you!
Boom Bryan with a y.
Damn bro I got lost 😞 in the first minute
Nbu
being married is dangerous.
Qj
Way too complicated
Lol..well you might now how to fix things however you are not an experienced spokesperson ..you explain it as if everyone has experience with electricity and hvac..which makes you a terrible salesman
good video
Thank you. 👍🏼