Splitting A 5 Framer In Half..... Double 5 Frame Nuc
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- Опубліковано 1 жов 2024
- After all the questions on my last video ( • 2 Frame Mating Nucs...... ), I decided to release this video in hopes of making this mating nuc easier to understand my double 5 frame nucs. This 2 frame setup worked very well for me and I encourage you to try it.
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epoxy a piece of feed bag to each side and fold over or use gorilla tape
I know I’m late to the conversation but I think you could build a divider using the thin wood slat that you currently have and glue it into a grooved top bar of a frame. You may need to ream out the groove a little to make it fit.
Great suggestion! Thank you.
Jason, I had one idea. I am thinking if you laid a flexible plastic against that very narrow divider, and glued it to the divider. Put one 90 degree fold and it covers one side. do the same on the opposite side. nothing at the top as a shim and I do believe it will give you an excellent separation. pull the divider out and it all comes in one thin unit.
Sounds like that would work very well. Thanks for the suggestion!
@@JCsBees You are always welcome, i am still hugely in your debt on things you have taught me!
Mate, you're a deadset legend.
Your instructional style is great. Learning a lot from you and your channel.
Cheers JC!
Thanks Carl. Glad your enjoying my content.
1/8inch or quarter inch Luan plywood, hot glue gun the feed sack to the top of it You're done, or even staple it also.. get rid of Shem just put ears on the Luann just like you would have follower board when it is one piece and not a board mounted on top of a board, you could probably use 100% silicone or even two-part epoxy to glue feed sack.. or two mini inner covers and telescopic lid, I guess possibilities are endless it is all how much work you want to put into it to make it do that yours is pretty simple the way it is though..
Maybe rip the cover down the middle. I'm going to give it a try on a different set up.
I agree about incubating the queens instead of using cells. Thanks for the Q&A Jason!
I like that idea also. As a matter of fact, after watching Jason's video with the chicken incubator, I went out and bought one myself!
Virgin queens can be marked which can be used to tell if she gets superceded and makes her easier to find.
Thanks.....btw...time to buy new coveralls.
But why they are just starting to get comfortable. lol
Maybe just using three small binder clips to attach the bag to the top of the divider?
Simple., just lay the feebag inner cover on top, don't attach it
He likes it attached to prevent queen migration to the other half.
round table talk is great. good information on different p o v.
Would just putting a shallow dado in the shim help? Also thanks for the time frame of inspection on the queen nucs (2 to 3 days). Once the queen is out (cell) do you then still get in every 2 to 3 days? I've read somewhere not to bother the queens for two weeks!!
Once the queen is released (from cell or cage) I do wait longer to make inspections, I usually wait about 10-12 days.
Hello son, another great video. When I tried splitting the 5 frame, I took an unassembled frame and instead of using a board, I used #8 hardware screen and used that as a divider. That way, the bees all knew the others scent and you could switch bugs, frames or whatever as needed. I like your feed bag cover. Good idea. Ain't making fun of the frost on your table or nothing, but I caught a small swarm today! They usually don't make it this time of year and this is probobly the latest it's happened here in 30 or 40 years, but had to pick at you...
I've seen people use screen to combined colonies before but I have never tried it. As far as the snow on my table, I welcome the cold weather. With the bees clustered I can work on other projects, like my insulating a stock tank. lol Glad to hear you caught a swarm even if it is a pocket swarm.
is humidity in an incubator for bees a factor like it is with hen eggs?
I raise chickens and bees, with the bees it didn't seem to matter.
What about using some soffit or thin sheet metal and fold it and tuck your feed bags inside the opposite end of the fold and have your groove small enough to keep them pinched in that way when they need replaced you could slide old out and new in
Something along those line would probably work well. Thanks!
Great info. I'll be building some of those 2 frame nucs this winter.
I think you will like them.
What if you glue velcro to the wood of the nuc and then the other part to the feeding bag or use command hook self adhesive strips. I would probably use a stronger glue to hold down the velcro so it doesnt pry off.
I use staples and split open drip hose. Just put staples through the drip hose into your divider. Works for me fairly well.
That seems like a very simple way of fixing the problem. Thanks!
What is a drip hose, David?
E-6000 Glue or if you want the realllllly good stuff 3M 5200, Oh-baby, that might bee my favorite glue (rubber type). Run a bead of glue down the middle of that Luan plywood. Adding a few tack nails or staples as a temporary hold. Not sure if the material you use sticks to the E-6000 or the 3M 5200.
Nice! Sounds like I need to try this glue out.
@@JCsBees The E6000 I use it on so many things, everything. The 3M 5200 I used (past tense) to hold/caulk between a hull & deck on sailboats.
Check it out, this is on a real boat, a J-24 the name of it was "Big Fish," allegedly, I'll never admit to this. It had teak toe rail along the deck (imagine a cake, and a big fat icing bead along the top of the cake, that's the toe rail), but made out of teak and not frosting, (google ' teak toe rail on sailboat).
To remove this we finally resorted to using a sledge hammer. Slinging a sledge hammer like a putter. The toe rail was held on with only that 3m 5200. Good god it was strong. It was attached to the gelcoat, which was part of the deck (and fiberglass was just below the gelcoat). In a couple of small spots, the teak came off with both gelcoat and a bit of fiberglass. I was astounded at how well that 3M 5200 worked.
I thought of another way too.
Let's say the width of the luan is 1/4" (I don't know the number...but replace this description with the correct width). Cut 2 strips of wood (pine?) 1/4" square. Glue one to the top of the luan, let it dry, then sandwich another 1/4" square (with staples). You'll be stapling into solid wood. Perhaps this idea is a bit too time consuming.
That sounds like some amazing glue for sure. It has to be strong to cause all of that work. Thanks for sharing the ideas and the story about the glue.
@@JCsBees The 3m 5200 I used years ago and one thing about it that was different/special/a pain was that you had to let it cure for a full 7 days. I ~think they've now formulated some stuff which dries quicker. You'll have to order it online or get it from some boat shop, ---although, I ~think I may have seen it at Lowes or Home Depot one time.... regardless, it's not that rare, but great stuff.
If the E6000 works to that material, that would probably be the easy route.
Oh, one last thing about the 3M 5200, when you get a tub, you need to use it pretty much in one session, you can't store it for a month and use it piece-meal, it will harden in the tube.. It might store for a week, but that's a gamble... the E6000, meh, it stores fine (but not indefinitely, it will also eventually cure in the tube).
Jason, All of your videos have been helpful to me. Do you ever have bears come through? If so, how do you deal with them?
Glad the videos have been helpful. We do not have bears in central Ohio but I know beekeepers that do battle them. From what I have seen the use electric fencing to protect the hives.
I could have sworn Mann Lake nucs were wider than 9"...I thought they were either 9 3/8 or 9 5/8.
Maybe their rabbit joint boxes are wider not sure as I prefer the finger joint boxes.
Just measured my Mann Lake 5 frame rabbet nucs....9 5/8". ...but doesn't matter if they are rabbet or finger joint...3/4" is 3/4" any way you slice it whether finger or rabbet. ...it's the width of the boards that matters. Product description on website says 9 5/8".....couldn't find where they sold finger jointed nucs...but maybe I missed them. Kelley sells finger jointed nucs....no description on dimension though. .
I purchased 50 last summer and they are 9 5/8"
@Kevin McMahon I went to Mann Lakes site last week hoping link the items I used to build this setup and I could not find finger joint boxes either. Very strange! Maybe the Mann Lake stuff on Amazon is different than the Mann Lake site, not sure. I agree 3/4" is 3/4' but I think you misunderstood me, there. I was saying maybe their box widths are based on the joint used.
I know I ordered nucs from 3 different places last year and they all were different dimensions...which made stacking boxes and lids most difficult.
Mann Lake and Kelley got bought out by the same company (Frandsen) this year, so that's also a possibility they are mixing/matching.
Why not simply use a five frame Nuc , with a sliding divider board with two frames and expand as needed per hive?
What would be the difference between what you described and what I have?
You would not need a slot for a center board. Leaving a place for small hive beetles to lay once your center piece is removed. Not to mention the hassle of cutting the slot in the first place. Then the propolis hassle after that. Two you would have One queen per box allowing more time for expansion, if needed, before having to relocate one of or both queens and or bees and frames. Three, As you described, once your two frames are out of room, something has to be done quickly or you take the risk of a swarm. Simply slide the Slider board over to the desired room needed allowing immediate room for an an extra frame, or two, or even three by checker-boarding without the hassle of removing and relocating the first frame or queen. Instant Nuc, Or if you are selling queens simply pull the queen, Options can go any direction from here unrestricted, as in sharing a five frame to make two mating nucs. I have tried this new method last year and will not restrict myself with it again. Each to his on, just trying to help, as you have helped me with many good tips. Thanks, Phillip
Phillip, I understand the benefits of your idea, but how would you handle the entrance? I would like to try using the movable divider board, but do you stuff grass into the portion of the entrance leading to the unused space?
@Phillip Hall Ok I understand what you were meaning now. I think your idea would work fine if you have plenty of equipment. Since each nuc is only one colony. With my setup you can turn 5 nucs into 10 splits. Sure, it takes a little more effort but works great if you have the time to invest.
You are right Jason, The single box double 2 frame that you describe will save on equipment and that is a plus. Thanks for your videos and your teaching! Keep them coming!! Thanks, Phillip
How about using a frame top bar and attaching divider board so it’s in center of top bar
Good thought but I think a top bar would be slight wider than my divider and shim setup that I have now.