There once was a man from B.C. Who made vidjeos for others to see. A guy sent him some stuff, his review was kinda ruff. But it was entertaining for me.
Spring lock washers are good for 2 things, letting water into the threaded joint so it can corrode, and snapping in half so the retained part can be really fucking loose.
And people, please realize he's not talking directly to or ragging on John @ NYC CNC this entire film. Most of these comments are to get you thinking when you're going into production.
Lol, I should have prefaced my original comment with "non-regulars" to the channel. You're exactly right though - that sort of insight is priceless and is exactly why I enjoy these so much. "Knowing" NYC CNC from the channel, I feel John's the type of guy to see that kind of feedback as priceless, and wouldn't be surprised if many of the suggestions go directly into the next batch / design.
agreed. As a manufacturer you should be made aware of what needs to be and how much or little. No disrespect just not "a yes man". I made good monies doing just that.
I've installed and built lots of equipment over the years. And I've found that the companies that engineers want to hear what the guys in the field in have to say, tend to make far superior equipment.
Not sure where some folks get the idea that John is a know it all. I haven't watched a ton of his vids, but I've seen a few occasions where he's shown a mistake he made on a job and could've easily edited it out of the video. My impression of his channel is that he's not just showing what he knows, but also what he's learning.
I must say AvE is brutal but he has expanded my manufacturing and design knowledge immensely. I've actually learned more on this channel (and johns) than most 4 year colleges can teach. I fully agree with the line "It's the little things that matter". I can't tell you how many people have seen a poorly installed "sticker" and thought "well, what else is wrong". Great review and scary reviewer. AvE is a madman but in a good way and John seems to be a great owner who accepts criticism well. It's a VERY hard thing to do. One quick edit: It's very refreshing to hear someone understand what a business must spend to make money. "On order to make a buck he must have to spend 3 bucks". Most people simply do not realize this.
You can pick up details in college as well. If you're not tuned in you can obviously rush through it without learning all that much and just goofing off and drinking though
This is maybe my favorite BOLTR ever, except maybe the first couple. I haven't learned much from teardowns lately, mainly is all the same stuff I've already learned how to recognize from previous teardowns. It was interesting to tear down an amateur-ish product, more feedback and tweaks on how to save money, why the design could be improved, etc. Feels like I got invited to the table at the process. I'd enjoy seeing more semi-professional BOLTRs and hearing why they maybe did things one way, how you might do them differently. I like how you keep in your mistakes too, when you think it's done one way and you find out you're wrong you take it back, not just edit it out. I think the world is made a lot better place the more people are exposed to role models not making a big deal out of being wrong. Also, emphasizing the value of criticism as an investment in that person, rather than an insult, the better. The less stubborn defensive knowi-it-alls and crybabies we breed as a society, the better.
Most likely he drilled, reamed, tapped, etc the holes complete from one side. Then he just flipped it and faced the other side and did the chamfer. So, if the register was off a little from one side to the other, that accounts for the chamfer shift.
He said they were NPT threads, so to get use out of that taper, you'd need to tap them from the side you intend on using them. OF course, I believe that statement to be a mistake in the lang-age dept because why would these be pipe thread?
Could have been drilled and tapped on the machine, then chamfered by hand. This would account for a an error that is seemingly random. If it was an error due to a work piece being removed and/or repositioned, all holes would likely be affected.
Including that star impact socket is a must IMO. I built one of these contraptions myself and using regular socket will not work as they chowder up after a dozen uses. You have to have impact rated ones. Impact rated sockets are extremely hard to find in certain sizes. In my case I had to use a star impact socket as the drawbar nut is square (G0704/BF20). Funny though, I used a brass bushing instead of a bearing as you suggest here...
The design is a result of lack of experience in industry. I like John's channel and have learnt a lot from his channel but without going out there and doing your time in the dirt (factories, mines, job shops) there's just so much you'll miss when it comes to designing a tool like this.
You are correct about split lock washers being worthless. Especially when used with flat washers. Your extended hex drawbar is used with the right angle attachment, so when you lower the quill to install it, you still have hex to tighten the drive collet. Nice video. Thanks.
AvE- The drawbar in your Bridgey is for a 2J (vari-speed head). They work fine for a J head (step pulley), but are made to project above the taller belt housing of the 2J. Both heads have the same spindle length, hence why they interchange from a manually operated stance. Not so with a power drawbar. I totally agree about the fasteners and such. Counterbored holes for SHCS or countersunk for flat heads would be way cleaner, and is the right way to go. It is a simple solution compared to other power drawbars (like Kurt), but the alignment issues don't work out. Some attention to detail was lacking when this was designed or built. My cred- I'm a toolmaker that runs Bridgeports (I even have two at home- yeah, I'm fucked in the head) and have had to fix them when they break.
Excellent video with lots of good advice and constructive comments for anyone to apply to their own products or even things they make for themselves. I also enjoy John's channel.
I bought this kit before John started offering the assembled unit, you had to go to HF and get your own impact tool, it was $50 and seemed well worth it.
Not sure if someone mentioned it but yes it looks like you have an extended drawbar. Nice to have if using a right angle attachment or other attachment on the quill.
Most people have to pay quite a bit of money to get a thorough look at their product like that. Especially with so much knowledge to help make a better product and recommendations on manufacturing as well
I spent years teaching my friend how to say "specific" instead of "pacific" and you just threw that all out the window at 4:25, thanks allot 😛 lol. Love your content, have learned a whole hell of a lot. Keep doing it. Thanks again.
Your drawbar is the length needed for a right angle attachment. You have to run the quill down to clamp those on so a longer drawbar is needed so it can be tightened with the quill down.
Awesome interaction between Ave and John. While It might have looked painful from the outside... a couple of iterations back and forth between these two will result in a much better product.
Also keep in mind that chamfers on threads (especially coarse ones) will look like they are offset due to part of the thread being exposed, giving the illusion that the chamfer is shifted towards the opposite end of the exposed thread.
I could be wrong here, but I think the butterfly impact is slightly off center due to the shape of the rear section of the tool itself being fixed to a perfectly flat surface but not being perfectly flat itself, you can clearly see the uneven Gap around the mating area and after it has been removed and sealed again it is even less accurate at being flat. glad to see that the screw holes have enough movement to adjust it, that was some good forward thinking.
Preface -- AvE, I love your vidjeos! I know this is a 4 years old video, but I felt a comment was needed. The offset you were seeing on the chamfer of the threaded holes is due to the cut of the thread lead-in not being a concentric circle to the chamfer tool (i.e. spot drill). Threads will always appear to be off-center when they are actually perfect. Please keep the BOLTR series running, and your .. well .. you know .. in a vise!
if I ever buy anything super expensive id like to hire ya, to look it over, the attention to detail. It's why I watch your channel. Finally got me a brushless drill/driver. my first brushless watch your ass I was running in an #9 2 1/2 deck screw I sent it right thru my 2x10.
AvE, just a little tid bit for you. According to a list I got from H&W Machine Repair in Indiana, your Bridgeport was built in 1954. Going by the serial number.
I recognize a guy when he's busy. Some people have a focus that's "build it now" and some are "design a system" types. It's very lucky when you combine these - there's a few on UA-cam who do that.
On the chamfer off centering you speak of, just thinking out load, but maybe it's centered and where the spiral thread randomly breaks through it makes it appear to be off centered? And the off centering of the Harbor Freight impact, that is probably unavoidable because you are bolting it up to the side of it's casting... (dimensions are going to float around from piece to piece).
Doesn't look like the chamfers are offset to me, looks like the thread is tricking your eyes. Try putting a counter sunk screw in there to check. Also, dual rate springs only work if one of the rates bottom out before the end of travel, so in this application he could just replace the heavier spring with a longer delrin piece.
I've built a few variations of the same set-up. I try to thread as much as possible, include the main side bars. It allows for interchangeable size bars with heli-coil inserts. Neat idea though.
Honest review with good, constructive criticism. Whether you like the person or not, blowing smoke up their ass helps nobody in a review, (though it may help get you a second date, if they're into that kind of thing).
"I'm not a machinist myself, but..." you got me with that one, again.... your word-shlingin' never ceases to make me happy and more confident in my own daily verbal diarrhea.
The seal on that HF 3/8 impact is factory, FYI. I bought one last year and it's just like that. The male air fitting comes mounted by HF too, by the by.
It looks pretty obvious to me that the holes for the vertical rods were drilled out of place. That's why one of them is way too close to the edge, and why the socket isn't centered in the hole. Obviously the whole "frame" assembly still fits, so my guess would be that something went wrong with the fixture and the whole baseplate was out of place when they were drilled, or that it was a code error.
Hey! Fellow Canadian here! Love your channel. Pretty new to it, I think I started watching a week ago. Cool to see the review of John's stuff too! I'm a College student currently pursuing my Aerospace Engineering degree, but I've always loved machining and it's my fallback career choice. I learned to operate CNC stuff on my FRC team but that's getting off on a tangent. Just wanted to introduce myself and say I love your work. If you have any tips for me I'd love to hear it!
You are correct regarding the fasteners and furniture. It must be as simple as possible, using existing forces within the design. Packaging is very important. It´s about efficiency.
I love your videos. the thing with the lock washer: I also say always the same thing, especially if it used in combination with a regular washer, than the designed function does not work at all. AvE, keep up the good work.
I make breadboards a lot at work. You call 'em pallets, I call them breadboards, either way 1/4-20 female threads on a grid, I make those. Often. All that said, I have stopped bothering to chamfer on the mill. I've found a countersink in a handheld drill works just fine. Perhaps that's what NYCNC is up to, which would explain the variation in the chamfers. Also a centerdrill like .010" deep makes for a decent etching tool for logos and text and whathaveyou. Also, our student shop on campus has been entirely converted to pneumatic drawbars (Maxi Torque Rite IIRC) for the mills. Less flying wrenches that way.
About 20 years ago I bought one of those collet closers from Kurt. It really saved a lot of time. I still have it somewhere but I don’t remember where. Still have the long drawbar but I have to use a vise grip on it. Kurt use some special spline. I’m gonna see if I can find it. Don’t even know why I took it off.
My aluminium mill bed is 650x450, and has 900, yes 900, M8 holes. That really took some time on the CNC mill with a rolltap. Super time saver - that and double sided tape!
John went through several months of R&D on the drawbar puller, he talked to several other youtube machining gurus on the ones they were making or have made for advice/ideas on how to do it right. He went through several prototypes with bushings that tended to get uneven and get jammed when moving up and down. That's why he went to the recirculating ball bushings because they were longer and fixed the binding problem, the dual rate springs were all part of that fix. But I dunno, you can easily get two inch or three inch long bronze bushings that should do the same thing. John admits that ten yeas ago he didn't even know what a mill was, he's been traveling as long steep learning slope and one thing I can say without reservation, he is THE most impressive AutoCad wrangler I've ever seen anywhere, anytime, when he has a model he's working on he runs through commands and changes faster than a normal mortals eyes can move.
About the chamfers, perhaps they are uneven because the thread is present on one side of the hole and not the other- the hole appears to be off its own centerline because of the missing top thread.
Flashbacks to when students would back the draw bar threads all the way out, then start wacking with a hammer, ever after we told them to only back it out 1 turn. I had to pull a hammer out of someones hands more than once. And the sound of collets hitting the floor......
'course I can't find it now, but I ran across a discussion on practical machinist on increasing productivity with a bridgeport and your oddly long draw bar is one of the old school productivity mods. It sticks up enough that you can, if you're not a shortarse like me, reach up and stick an offset box end wrench on it and smack it good and let 'er spin until the collet is loose. The long bar and offset wrench allow it to clear the motor.
I would bet good money that the reason the socket is off center in the hole is because the end cap of the impact is less than flat.Probably best way to fix it would be to remove the allen screws and replace them with studs,use nuts for spacers and pull the top plate of the draw bar down against them with some nylocs. My reasoning is the bottoms of the counter bores in the end cap are probably parallel to the sealing face,even though the top of the cap isn't. Your drawbar is an extended one for a VS head B-port.The one to fit a step pulley head will have just the hex portion sticking up above the quill drive.
The sticker isn't crooked. It's straight relative to the back edge of the base plate. It's just that the two rods the whole contraption slides down on are not mounted square on the base plate, which throws off the whole perception of how it is aligned.
your drawbar is way taller than mine was on a similar vintage machine, just enough poking up to get a wrench on (1" or so) You are doing the Lords work sir, keep your thing in or on or about some other thing where it's supposed to be
AVE, i use spring lock washers on the bolt or nut end that i dont want to have to hold or cant get a tool on to hold. most times it works great when using a impact.
I knew that Mazak wasn't just a dream! Your drawbar does look extra long, relative to the sampling of 1 other Bridgeport I have seen in person. For the price of that plate, why not just get another one and put her through the bandsaw for twice the mini plates?
"why wouldn't ya flat the other side of the handle for the fasteners?" it's an extra step. bar cut to length on the lathe. sent to the mill. bar in vice, push button and the mill makes the flat and drills 2 holes, done. he's not using an indexer in the mill. just a vice. other ways to skin that cat are to hang the bar out and mill both sides then load in another station for the holes. OR run it as mentioned above and the operator takes parts out and hits the holes with a counterbore in a drill press while the mill makes the naxt one. OR buy even a small Swiss machine, that's a very simple Swiss, lights out part. turn it on end of shift and collect your bucket of money in the morning.
All I got to say Bill about that plate is 1/ I am a metal finisher by trade ( I worked for a major car company in the VAP) 2/ The concentric arcs are beautiful to me. 3/ Thus whoever did it, cared. 4/ We call it a buffer - A grinder like tool with the flat disc either in glue (old school ... er pre 90's roughly) or velcro, to attach a disc of sandpaper and operated at 9000+ RPM. As usual, good vid mate. Edit: Oh man, I have a feeling a machine did it. We use to do it by going side to side while descending. Yeah fuck me I'm sure of it now!... I should have watched more than the first few minutes.
I spend half my time sorting out machining details on CNC machines castings on my Jurassic age Bridgeport. But if I every cleaned up on the lottery I'd be like 'Sell me your Haas Minimill right now'. I'd love to be able to play all day 😁 I'm green with envy over those guys who can do all that confoozer stuff 😲
correct me if im wrong but i dont know much about this stuff. i think the 2 springs is a good idea, the bottom thicker 1 is holding up the weight and the top 1 is thinner so you can push down on the tool ease. my guess is if 1 thin spring was used then yes it will snake and might compress a bit. as i said i dont know much about this stuff but these were my thoughts.
Another thing ya gotta watch for with those drawbars is being careful ya don't loosen it too much before ya hit it. I've always been told only go one turn before ya hit it. If you go more you run the risk of actually stripping the threads on the drawbar when you hit it because they aren't hardened and the collet's threads are. In my first semester when getting my PMT Associates the instructors were replacing a drawbar a week because guys wouldn't listen and would just unscrew it all the way. Smash the two threads together, then wonder why they couldn't get the next collet to engage the threads that they just sheared off.
I'll gladly make prints. Do tolerance stack ups and everything. All I need is rough schetches and a little run down on whats actually going on with the part.
in reply to your spring washer comment i have seen them used for torque spec purposes and single use washers as well still junk but they still have (or at least had) a use.
You gotta use linear bearings as bushings just bind after a while. I built a couple years ago and ended up changing them over to linear bearings after a while, much more better with the off axis load and monkeys yarding on them. Oh and that my fine sir is one long ass drawbar! Most of them barely poke out the top at all.
A cheat for the sticker is to put a slight line onto the surface during the machining.. it'll still be visible though anodizing and is a perfect guide to put the sticker on straight + centered.
There once was a man from B.C.
Who made vidjeos for others to see.
A guy sent him some stuff,
his review was kinda ruff.
But it was entertaining for me.
learnelectronics is he related to that fella from Nantucket?
Kinda rough is putting it mildly.
@@mastershake42019 who could knob himself up? Yea they're cousins.
Spring lock washers are good for 2 things, letting water into the threaded joint so it can corrode, and snapping in half so the retained part can be really fucking loose.
And people, please realize he's not talking directly to or ragging on John @ NYC CNC this entire film. Most of these comments are to get you thinking when you're going into production.
Lol, I should have prefaced my original comment with "non-regulars" to the channel. You're exactly right though - that sort of insight is priceless and is exactly why I enjoy these so much. "Knowing" NYC CNC from the channel, I feel John's the type of guy to see that kind of feedback as priceless, and wouldn't be surprised if many of the suggestions go directly into the next batch / design.
agreed. As a manufacturer you should be made aware of what needs to be and how much or little. No disrespect just not "a yes man". I made good monies doing just that.
i am a beginner and i like them both on account without any videos at all id be fuckdizzled lol props to all video makers!
I've installed and built lots of equipment over the years. And I've found that the companies that engineers want to hear what the guys in the field in have to say, tend to make far superior equipment.
Not sure where some folks get the idea that John is a know it all.
I haven't watched a ton of his vids, but I've seen a few occasions where he's shown a mistake he made on a job and could've easily edited it out of the video.
My impression of his channel is that he's not just showing what he knows, but also what he's learning.
I am now a more knowledgeable couch machinist.
Not more than me
Machining couches must require some specialist fixtures.
@@scottwright6822 Takes a special fixture to hold a beer proper.
I must say AvE is brutal but he has expanded my manufacturing and design knowledge immensely. I've actually learned more on this channel (and johns) than most 4 year colleges can teach. I fully agree with the line "It's the little things that matter". I can't tell you how many people have seen a poorly installed "sticker" and thought "well, what else is wrong". Great review and scary reviewer. AvE is a madman but in a good way and John seems to be a great owner who accepts criticism well. It's a VERY hard thing to do.
One quick edit: It's very refreshing to hear someone understand what a business must spend to make money. "On order to make a buck he must have to spend 3 bucks". Most people simply do not realize this.
Gordon Lapl
Constructive criticism= Helpful
Agreed
You can pick up details in college as well. If you're not tuned in you can obviously rush through it without learning all that much and just goofing off and drinking though
My new motto: when I build shit, build it as if AvE will review it.
This is maybe my favorite BOLTR ever, except maybe the first couple. I haven't learned much from teardowns lately, mainly is all the same stuff I've already learned how to recognize from previous teardowns. It was interesting to tear down an amateur-ish product, more feedback and tweaks on how to save money, why the design could be improved, etc. Feels like I got invited to the table at the process. I'd enjoy seeing more semi-professional BOLTRs and hearing why they maybe did things one way, how you might do them differently. I like how you keep in your mistakes too, when you think it's done one way and you find out you're wrong you take it back, not just edit it out. I think the world is made a lot better place the more people are exposed to role models not making a big deal out of being wrong. Also, emphasizing the value of criticism as an investment in that person, rather than an insult, the better. The less stubborn defensive knowi-it-alls and crybabies we breed as a society, the better.
6:20 "Fair dinkum"...? Man...I haven't heard _that_ since I was a kid in Sydney. Getting homesick - hit me right in the feels. :-)
Most likely he drilled, reamed, tapped, etc the holes complete from one side. Then he just flipped it and faced the other side and did the chamfer. So, if the register was off a little from one side to the other, that accounts for the chamfer shift.
He said they were NPT threads, so to get use out of that taper, you'd need to tap them from the side you intend on using them. OF course, I believe that statement to be a mistake in the lang-age dept because why would these be pipe thread?
My mistake, it's correctedI need to watch the _hole_ thing before commenting
sounds like NPT first then he corrects it later.
It happens to the best of us...
Could have been drilled and tapped on the machine, then chamfered by hand. This would account for a an error that is seemingly random. If it was an error due to a work piece being removed and/or repositioned, all holes would likely be affected.
Including that star impact socket is a must IMO. I built one of these contraptions myself and using regular socket will not work as they chowder up after a dozen uses. You have to have impact rated ones. Impact rated sockets are extremely hard to find in certain sizes. In my case I had to use a star impact socket as the drawbar nut is square (G0704/BF20).
Funny though, I used a brass bushing instead of a bearing as you suggest here...
Sup Squad? Here's John's Channel. ua-cam.com/video/UGPZM5J4IbA/v-deo.html
Fantastic, thanks! Wife and Kiddo back from fun times while I edited, now off to Nana's to afternoon party with a 97 year old rock star.
Fantastic that you're plugging John's channel. Have been really enjoying his content and he truly deserves more subscribers.
Jesus christ I'm here in 8 minutes and it's already got 1000 views, what a sell out!
have you seen hit job they did to Joerg of the slingshot channel?
AvE please do a video on your Mill!!!
I agree, that is why I support the folks that share and inspire to get out in to the workshop and have a laugh
6:16 did he just say fairdinkum? I am Ozzie and that is the first time I have heard a none Australian say it the way it should be. Not as a joke.
i caught that too lol
@@opwards well, one of you drongos better have bought him some fackin VB long necks!
@@blackhawks81H ahhhhh the old king browns of visitors beer
I picked up 'flat as a pannekoek' So he's fluent in dutch too!
Honest and constructive, I bet you made the Bridgeport jig better for everyone getting a new batch. Free design review.
The design is a result of lack of experience in industry.
I like John's channel and have learnt a lot from his channel but without going out there and doing your time in the dirt (factories, mines, job shops) there's just so much you'll miss when it comes to designing a tool like this.
You are correct about split lock washers being worthless. Especially when used with flat washers. Your extended hex drawbar is used with the right angle attachment, so when you lower the quill to install it, you still have hex to tighten the drive collet. Nice video. Thanks.
AvE-
The drawbar in your Bridgey is for a 2J (vari-speed head). They work fine for a J head (step pulley), but are made to project above the taller belt housing of the 2J. Both heads have the same spindle length, hence why they interchange from a manually operated stance. Not so with a power drawbar.
I totally agree about the fasteners and such. Counterbored holes for SHCS or countersunk for flat heads would be way cleaner, and is the right way to go.
It is a simple solution compared to other power drawbars (like Kurt), but the alignment issues don't work out. Some attention to detail was lacking when this was designed or built.
My cred-
I'm a toolmaker that runs Bridgeports (I even have two at home- yeah, I'm fucked in the head) and have had to fix them when they break.
Excellent video with lots of good advice and constructive comments for anyone to apply to their own products or even things they make for themselves. I also enjoy John's channel.
I bought this kit before John started offering the assembled unit, you had to go to HF and get your own impact tool, it was $50 and seemed well worth it.
I love john. He's so positive all the time and he's a great success story. Glad ur supporting him
I remember watching NYCCNC's earlier stuff, involving a silencer for a .22 rifle.
Good stuff.
After that review, he might want to use it if you know what I mean.
Not sure if someone mentioned it but yes it looks like you have an extended drawbar. Nice to have if using a right angle attachment or other attachment on the quill.
"Luckily it's in metric" - AvE, on the internet forever
Most people have to pay quite a bit of money to get a thorough look at their product like that. Especially with so much knowledge to help make a better product and recommendations on manufacturing as well
Free enginerding advice. John's got it made in the shade.
I spent years teaching my friend how to say "specific" instead of "pacific" and you just threw that all out the window at 4:25, thanks allot 😛 lol. Love your content, have learned a whole hell of a lot. Keep doing it. Thanks again.
@ 18:20 "It's not centered in the hole." That's for her pleasure.
Your drawbar is the length needed for a right angle attachment. You have to run the quill down to clamp those on so a longer drawbar is needed so it can be tightened with the quill down.
Awesome interaction between Ave and John. While It might have looked painful from the outside... a couple of iterations back and forth between these two will result in a much better product.
Also keep in mind that chamfers on threads (especially coarse ones) will look like they are offset due to part of the thread being exposed, giving the illusion that the chamfer is shifted towards the opposite end of the exposed thread.
Having just bought one of those butterfly impacts from Harbor Fright, I can tell you that the Milton "M" male comes with the tool...mine did anyway.
I could be wrong here, but I think the butterfly impact is slightly off center due to the shape of the rear section of the tool itself being fixed to a perfectly flat surface but not being perfectly flat itself, you can clearly see the uneven Gap around the mating area and after it has been removed and sealed again it is even less accurate at being flat. glad to see that the screw holes have enough movement to adjust it, that was some good forward thinking.
SOME TIMES I FEEL LIKE I'M WATCHING SWEDISH CHEF! :D
GREAT CHANNEL!
Preface -- AvE, I love your vidjeos!
I know this is a 4 years old video, but I felt a comment was needed.
The offset you were seeing on the chamfer of the threaded holes is due to the cut of the thread lead-in not being a concentric circle to the chamfer tool (i.e. spot drill).
Threads will always appear to be off-center when they are actually perfect.
Please keep the BOLTR series running, and your .. well .. you know .. in a vise!
if I ever buy anything super expensive id like to hire ya, to look it over, the attention to detail. It's why I watch your channel. Finally got me a brushless drill/driver. my first brushless watch your ass I was running in an #9 2 1/2 deck screw I sent it right thru my 2x10.
Post Clickspring, any metal surface that isn't lapped,
I shake my head, I shake my head....
AvE, just a little tid bit for you. According to a list I got from H&W Machine Repair in Indiana, your Bridgeport was built in 1954. Going by the serial number.
Boy, that is one heck of a long draw bar ya' got there kid.
I recognize a guy when he's busy. Some people have a focus that's "build it now" and some are "design a system" types. It's very lucky when you combine these - there's a few on UA-cam who do that.
Your chamfers look off enter because your thread breaks out in a spiral! Ill bet the side with pin holes looks on center?
All phase mobility scrolled to far to find this. seemed so obvious to me, glad someone else knows.
I don't know why I watch all these vids, I'll never be a machinist but... there is something *mesmerizing* about this stuff.
I agree. Just does entertaining videos.
On the chamfer off centering you speak of, just thinking out load, but maybe it's centered and where the spiral thread randomly breaks through it makes it appear to be off centered?
And the off centering of the Harbor Freight impact, that is probably unavoidable because you are bolting it up to the side of it's casting... (dimensions are going to float around from piece to piece).
Doesn't look like the chamfers are offset to me, looks like the thread is tricking your eyes. Try putting a counter sunk screw in there to check. Also, dual rate springs only work if one of the rates bottom out before the end of travel, so in this application he could just replace the heavier spring with a longer delrin piece.
i love your sense of humour. always makes for a good watch, cheers mate.
I've built a few variations of the same set-up. I try to thread as much as possible, include the main side bars. It allows for interchangeable size bars with heli-coil inserts. Neat idea though.
New to the channel and you sir are spec frickin tacular!! Laughter and learning ...can’t go wrong. Keep it up!,
Honest review with good, constructive criticism. Whether you like the person or not, blowing smoke up their ass helps nobody in a review, (though it may help get you a second date, if they're into that kind of thing).
John's going to be sat in the loo crying his eyes out over this review lol
"I'm not a machinist myself, but..."
you got me with that one, again.... your word-shlingin' never ceases to make me happy and more confident in my own daily verbal diarrhea.
The seal on that HF 3/8 impact is factory, FYI. I bought one last year and it's just like that.
The male air fitting comes mounted by HF too, by the by.
It looks pretty obvious to me that the holes for the vertical rods were drilled out of place. That's why one of them is way too close to the edge, and why the socket isn't centered in the hole. Obviously the whole "frame" assembly still fits, so my guess would be that something went wrong with the fixture and the whole baseplate was out of place when they were drilled, or that it was a code error.
I started watching John when he was in his NYC apartment. He is a really smart dude. Loves to learn and to teach.
Hey! Fellow Canadian here! Love your channel. Pretty new to it, I think I started watching a week ago. Cool to see the review of John's stuff too! I'm a College student currently pursuing my Aerospace Engineering degree, but I've always loved machining and it's my fallback career choice. I learned to operate CNC stuff on my FRC team but that's getting off on a tangent. Just wanted to introduce myself and say I love your work. If you have any tips for me I'd love to hear it!
You are correct regarding the fasteners and furniture. It must be as simple as possible, using existing forces within the design. Packaging is very important. It´s about efficiency.
I love your videos.
the thing with the lock washer: I also say always the same thing, especially if it used in combination with a regular washer, than the designed function does not work at all.
AvE, keep up the good work.
I make breadboards a lot at work. You call 'em pallets, I call them breadboards, either way 1/4-20 female threads on a grid, I make those. Often.
All that said, I have stopped bothering to chamfer on the mill. I've found a countersink in a handheld drill works just fine. Perhaps that's what NYCNC is up to, which would explain the variation in the chamfers.
Also a centerdrill like .010" deep makes for a decent etching tool for logos and text and whathaveyou.
Also, our student shop on campus has been entirely converted to pneumatic drawbars (Maxi Torque Rite IIRC) for the mills. Less flying wrenches that way.
About 20 years ago I bought one of those collet closers from Kurt. It really saved a lot of time. I still have it somewhere but I don’t remember where. Still have the long drawbar but I have to use a vise grip on it. Kurt use some special spline. I’m gonna see if I can find it. Don’t even know why I took it off.
i really like watching NYC CNC he seems like a genuine good guy
"Flat as pannenkoeken" < You never cease to entertain me haha
My aluminium mill bed is 650x450, and has 900, yes 900, M8 holes. That really took some time on the CNC mill with a rolltap.
Super time saver - that and double sided tape!
Really enjoyed this, even the crack about Jersey.
Oh yeah Jimmy is fine and in a safe place.
"It's for clamping small parts in your mill vise" - Guess he's experiencing shrinkage in that Canadian cold.
John went through several months of R&D on the drawbar puller, he talked to several other youtube machining gurus on the ones they were making or have made for advice/ideas on how to do it right. He went through several prototypes with bushings that tended to get uneven and get jammed when moving up and down.
That's why he went to the recirculating ball bushings because they were longer and fixed the binding problem, the dual rate springs were all part of that fix. But I dunno, you can easily get two inch or three inch long bronze bushings that should do the same thing.
John admits that ten yeas ago he didn't even know what a mill was, he's been traveling as long steep learning slope and one thing I can say without reservation, he is THE most impressive AutoCad wrangler I've ever seen anywhere, anytime, when he has a model he's working on he runs through commands and changes faster than a normal mortals eyes can move.
"Pretty loose in the hips there.. Ridden hard and put away wet!"
LMAO
Its always neat seeing cross over between channels I watch. :)
Finally early on one of these!! - keep choochin - John's energy is intoxicating. Awesome stuff.
About the chamfers, perhaps they are uneven because the thread is present on one side of the hole and not the other- the hole appears to be off its own centerline because of the missing top thread.
Flashbacks to when students would back the draw bar threads all the way out, then start wacking with a hammer, ever after we told them to only back it out 1 turn. I had to pull a hammer out of someones hands more than once.
And the sound of collets hitting the floor......
Yet again nicely narrated by someone who knows his stuff
Thank you for being so damn transparent with your findings!!
'course I can't find it now, but I ran across a discussion on practical machinist on increasing productivity with a bridgeport and your oddly long draw bar is one of the old school productivity mods. It sticks up enough that you can, if you're not a shortarse like me, reach up and stick an offset box end wrench on it and smack it good and let 'er spin until the collet is loose. The long bar and offset wrench allow it to clear the motor.
You could use leader pin bushings and core pins or ejector pins from injection mold supply place and eliminate those linear bearings
Chinesium is my new favorite word. I've always been happy with a box wrench with a brass bar braised on the other end, to bang on the drawbar.
You are the one youtuber for me that I really like watching but have no idea what you are doing, subbed.
Looks like the dude did a pretty solid job with the tool. Always room for improvement but 95% there.
a few inches of stroke... phrasing BOOM! let's just make this guy one of the writers for Archer
The best you tube tool and shop video channel.
Nearly, half a million subscribers agree.
I would bet good money that the reason the socket is off center in the hole is because the end cap of the impact is less than flat.Probably best way to fix it would be to remove the allen screws and replace them with studs,use nuts for spacers and pull the top plate of the draw bar down against them with some nylocs. My reasoning is the bottoms of the counter bores in the end cap are probably parallel to the sealing face,even though the top of the cap isn't.
Your drawbar is an extended one for a VS head B-port.The one to fit a step pulley head will have just the hex portion sticking up above the quill drive.
The sticker isn't crooked. It's straight relative to the back edge of the base plate. It's just that the two rods the whole contraption slides down on are not mounted square on the base plate, which throws off the whole perception of how it is aligned.
your drawbar is way taller than mine was on a similar vintage machine, just enough poking up to get a wrench on (1" or so) You are doing the Lords work sir, keep your thing in or on or about some other thing where it's supposed to be
Neat idea, fast change on the draw-bar, and all one handed.
AVE, i use spring lock washers on the bolt or nut end that i dont want to have to hold or cant get a tool on to hold. most times it works great when using a impact.
"what if I was some kind of weirdo" AVE dont kid yourself.
Hey. Don't look now, but your OCD is showing! lol love your "vidjay-oh's"!
I knew that Mazak wasn't just a dream! Your drawbar does look extra long, relative to the sampling of 1 other Bridgeport I have seen in person. For the price of that plate, why not just get another one and put her through the bandsaw for twice the mini plates?
"why wouldn't ya flat the other side of the handle for the fasteners?"
it's an extra step. bar cut to length on the lathe. sent to the mill. bar in vice, push button and the mill makes the flat and drills 2 holes, done.
he's not using an indexer in the mill. just a vice.
other ways to skin that cat are to hang the bar out and mill both sides then load in another station for the holes. OR
run it as mentioned above and the operator takes parts out and hits the holes with a counterbore in a drill press while the mill makes the naxt one.
OR buy even a small Swiss machine, that's a very simple Swiss, lights out part. turn it on end of shift and collect your bucket of money in the morning.
Not part of notifactor squad, but mein spidy senses tingled enough to check
DUN CAUGHT YEH
Durn, I'd gotten away with it if it wasn't for that pesky wall crawler.
All I got to say Bill about that plate is
1/ I am a metal finisher by trade ( I worked for a major car company in the VAP)
2/ The concentric arcs are beautiful to me.
3/ Thus whoever did it, cared.
4/ We call it a buffer - A grinder like tool with the flat disc either in glue (old school ... er pre 90's roughly) or velcro, to attach a disc of sandpaper and operated at 9000+ RPM.
As usual, good vid mate.
Edit: Oh man, I have a feeling a machine did it. We use to do it by going side to side while descending. Yeah fuck me I'm sure of it now!... I should have watched more than the first few minutes.
John is a kick ass dude. Thanks for the up close and personal on this one.
I spend half my time sorting out machining details on CNC machines castings on my Jurassic age Bridgeport. But if I every cleaned up on the lottery I'd be like 'Sell me your Haas Minimill right now'. I'd love to be able to play all day 😁
I'm green with envy over those guys who can do all that confoozer stuff 😲
Anything from John Saunders is going to be good value as he pays so much attention to detail and tolerance. Great piece of kit.
Did we watch the same video?
correct me if im wrong but i dont know much about this stuff.
i think the 2 springs is a good idea, the bottom thicker 1 is holding up the weight and the top 1 is thinner so you can push down on the tool ease. my guess is if 1 thin spring was used then yes it will snake and might compress a bit. as i said i dont know much about this stuff but these were my thoughts.
Another thing ya gotta watch for with those drawbars is being careful ya don't loosen it too much before ya hit it. I've always been told only go one turn before ya hit it. If you go more you run the risk of actually stripping the threads on the drawbar when you hit it because they aren't hardened and the collet's threads are. In my first semester when getting my PMT Associates the instructors were replacing a drawbar a week because guys wouldn't listen and would just unscrew it all the way. Smash the two threads together, then wonder why they couldn't get the next collet to engage the threads that they just sheared off.
the offset chamfer is probably due to the chamfering tool not dwelling long enough before retracting back out
I live to hear "focus, you f..." 😂
I'll gladly make prints. Do tolerance stack ups and everything. All I need is rough schetches and a little run down on whats actually going on with the part.
in reply to your spring washer comment i have seen them used for torque spec purposes and single use washers as well still junk but they still have (or at least had) a use.
The best thing about being a soon-to-be freshly-minted enginerd is that you can play along at home with your videos.
You gotta use linear bearings as bushings just bind after a while. I built a couple years ago and ended up changing them over to linear bearings after a while, much more better with the off axis load and monkeys yarding on them. Oh and that my fine sir is one long ass drawbar! Most of them barely poke out the top at all.
A cheat for the sticker is to put a slight line onto the surface during the machining.. it'll still be visible though anodizing and is a perfect guide to put the sticker on straight + centered.