PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE: Testing them can cause leaks (hard water minerals, etc). If it hasn't leaked, don't "fix" it. If it leaks, test flush it. If it still leaks, replace it. EXPANSION TANK: Test by taping on the side: should sound hollow on the air side of tank and solid (full of water) on the pipe inlet side. Do NOT release air to test unless you refill the air to balanced pressure to prevent breaking it.
My tank is probably 15-20 years old. I was just now going to go out and test it until I read this, if it ain't broke don't fix it. I think I will leave it alone.
I hate those nightmare stories of people’s water heaters exploding and taking out the entire neighbourhood. Hearing those stories waaaay too often now.
I didn't test the tnp valve on my Rheem for 12 yrs (and it had a 22 yr warranty on the tank) and only recently tested it. It was very stiff and didn't want to open at all initially. I drained a few gallons so that water level gets below the t&p level. And then I tried opening ad this time it did come open and water flowed to the drain pipe. However the t&p valve handle is in a funky state. It doesn't stop after opening 90 degrees. It goes on moving further and ends at 180 degrees. I have to hold it firm after 90 degrees of opening, and then let go, else it moves on to 180 degrees and the discharge via tnp stops. Dunno if it's busted or what. What do you think?
I treat water for a living, most of the time the expansion valves are in well water only. Even a community well. On city water the PRV (pressure reducing valve) is in place; typically at the point of entry on the home.
California plumbing code must have added in recent years as neighbors plumber put it in and also put in steel post as shield into concrete ( jackhammered hole in garage floor)
My new rheem pressure valve on side of gas heater arrived in box with valve overturned so not direct line to base.. can I safely move back counterclockwise 1/4 turn?
My hot water heater is less than 3 years old and it's actually leaking slowly from that white pipe. What should I do on my own? A plumber will charge me $150 to just come.
$150+ for a professional to fix your problem from becoming a larger more expensive problem sounds like you may have a “coupon” and aren’t even aware of it..
By whom?! 140°F is 60°C. It takes *one second* for water at 60°C to cause third-degree burns. That's incredibly stupid and dangerous - especially if you have children. The government of Canada recommends setting your water heater to 49°C (120°F), which is more than enough to prevent the growth of harmful bacteria such as Legionella.
Mine broke in the middle of the night I woke up to the alarms it was just a nightmare. All better now but the lady downstairs from me got it way way worse. Yea this is no joke.
Lower the temp by 10 degrees. Repair so there is no kaboom. Car thermostats usually get stuck in open position. You probably had water set to high that it was always opening when operational. Get a expansion tank and a new valve if you want hot water above 110
There is no way to fully test a TPV outside a lab. As in, no way to test that it'd trip at the correct pressure or temp. This test only verifies it isn't seized. Though that tells something, it's not enough for true safety. Just replace every 5 to 7 years.
the tank will BLOW UP!! Really??? think about that a minute. The tank is thick gauge steel. your copper pipes will blow long before the tank and you faucets will leak as well.
I admire this guys showmanship 😊 the knowledge is just a plus 😂
We're all about showmanship 😊
My landlord sent plumbers to try to kill me and your video saved my life- Chris Macaulay in Oakland CA
Very informative video. Thank you.
PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE: Testing them can cause leaks (hard water minerals, etc).
If it hasn't leaked, don't "fix" it.
If it leaks, test flush it. If it still leaks, replace it.
EXPANSION TANK: Test by taping on the side: should sound hollow on the air side of tank and solid (full of water) on the pipe inlet side.
Do NOT release air to test unless you refill the air to balanced pressure to prevent breaking it.
My tank is probably 15-20 years old. I was just now going to go out and test it until I read this, if it ain't broke don't fix it. I think I will leave it alone.
I just did the exact same thing as this comment. Leaving it alone haha
Nice Job, Tom
Thank you! Cheers!
Thanks. So why do you need an expansion tank if you already have a T&P valve?
I hate those nightmare stories of people’s water heaters exploding and taking out the entire neighbourhood. Hearing those stories waaaay too often now.
I didn't test the tnp valve on my Rheem for 12 yrs (and it had a 22 yr warranty on the tank) and only recently tested it. It was very stiff and didn't want to open at all initially. I drained a few gallons so that water level gets below the t&p level. And then I tried opening ad this time it did come open and water flowed to the drain pipe.
However the t&p valve handle is in a funky state. It doesn't stop after opening 90 degrees. It goes on moving further and ends at 180 degrees. I have to hold it firm after 90 degrees of opening, and then let go, else it moves on to 180 degrees and the discharge via tnp stops. Dunno if it's busted or what. What do you think?
What if you test it then when you try to turn it back off it just keeps flowing? (stuck open)
can you say why an expansion tank would be used on a a solo water heater?
Are those "expansion tanks" mandatory on all water heaters? I have two RHEEM WHs in my home.. neither one of them has this expansion tanks.
Probably only used when on a well.
I treat water for a living, most of the time the expansion valves are in well water only. Even a community well. On city water the PRV (pressure reducing valve) is in place; typically at the point of entry on the home.
California plumbing code must have added in recent years as neighbors plumber put it in and also put in steel post as shield into concrete ( jackhammered hole in garage floor)
My new rheem pressure valve on side of gas heater arrived in box with valve overturned so not direct line to base.. can I safely move back counterclockwise 1/4 turn?
Mine doesn't have an expansion tank. Should I be concerned?
Gracias amigo..
Thank you 🙏
My hot water heater is less than 3 years old and it's actually leaking slowly from that white pipe. What should I do on my own? A plumber will charge me $150 to just come.
Assuming it's a gas heater, get yourself a LICENSED gas technician and don't try to fool around with DIY nonsense. Is $150 worth killing your family?
$150+ for a professional to fix your problem from becoming a larger more expensive problem sounds like you may have a “coupon” and aren’t even aware of it..
You did not explain when what happens when the pressure valve fails.
When I was little I hated going to basement - thought they were ghosts. Ran away as soon as I could out of there
WTH
Mine is constantly leaking from the pressure relief valve , all day it’s not here and there, it’s over 10 times a day should I be worried?
Mostly annoying but replace it just in case. About $8 and screws in like a reverse garden hose w a wrench or even plyers.
@@parkashland thanks man I appreciate it
Whats the point of this drip pan it goes to no where and just leaks on the floor like what lol
How often should you check it?
Every 6 months!
My tp is connected 2 a pipe into wall, so no see leak!?
It drains outside...look on the ground level on other side of the wall if it is in the garage
In Canada 140 is recommended
By whom?! 140°F is 60°C. It takes *one second* for water at 60°C to cause third-degree burns. That's incredibly stupid and dangerous - especially if you have children.
The government of Canada recommends setting your water heater to 49°C (120°F), which is more than enough to prevent the growth of harmful bacteria such as Legionella.
If there's water always coming out of the white pipe is the valve bad? It's also a fairly new water heater
Yes that means that your T&P is faulty. That should be fixed ASAP.
My water heater don’t have expansion tank, is that ok sir? Thank you
Most people don't inspect the pressure relief valve until it goes kaput. If your temp is not above 115 you're OK.
Is it the same for elec water heater
Show everyone how to let all the air from their expansion tank.
In Canada 140 is reccomended
No. Your comment was stupid enough the first time around. You didn't need to make it twice.
Mine broke in the middle of the night I woke up to the alarms it was just a nightmare. All better now but the lady downstairs from me got it way way worse. Yea this is no joke.
My pressure relieve valve is constantly leaking it’s not here it and there it’s constant, should that be a concern I’m paranoid
Lower the temp by 10 degrees. Repair so there is no kaboom. Car thermostats usually get stuck in open position. You probably had water set to high that it was always opening when operational. Get a expansion tank and a new valve if you want hot water above 110
There is no way to fully test a TPV outside a lab. As in, no way to test that it'd trip at the correct pressure or temp. This test only verifies it isn't seized. Though that tells something, it's not enough for true safety. Just replace every 5 to 7 years.
Only gas tanks explodes! What r the odds?
the tank will BLOW UP!! Really??? think about that a minute. The tank is thick gauge steel. your copper pipes will blow long before the tank and you faucets will leak as well.
A quick Google search will show that you're wrong.