I always forget to say this, so since I have it on my mind, thank you for mentioning anything about "keeping your budget in mind". I still have most of my tools from about 40 years ago (the military had me kind of messing with leather with long periods without it), but even now I know how quick the $$ can add up. I know even now I sometimes think that I need everything under the sun, but will pause and try to figure out what I can use rather than spending large quantities of money. That isn't to say that I don't, but I am a lot more selective in what I spend it on. Makes my wife a lot happier as well. Go figure.... Thanks again Chuck
Instead of a piece of leather under cutting boards and mats, I use draw liner found in the kitchen section of stores. The thin foam style. It helps dampen noise, keeps them from slipping, no sticky tape, I still have the leather to use and it's good in the toolbox draw to keep tools from rolling and damage.
Years ago I worked at Tandy Leather in Knoxville. They had built a work table. It had heavy top construction with 6 large legs - for stability when pounding. The only drawback was, to prevent bounce etc, the top had no overhang - meaning it was 'standing work only.' It also had a strong lower 'ledge' - useful for storage; it also gave added stability. It was large enough to work a half-hide on. Also, they had covered the top with what you called "poundo board". In their case they glued it down with either Tandy white leather glue or rubber cement - making it easy to replace worn out pieces. It gave us a solid dedicated work bench for pounding, tooling , cutting and dyeing.
Hello Chuck! long time watcher- heres a tip- keep a notebook of what weights and thread sizes go together- got a scrap of 8oz? run 2 lines of stitches with your fave weight threads- keep it available to show folks/customers or compare! Thread size and choice can make or break some projects!
Has there been a video on thread, lacing, and needles? That was the hardest part of getting started for me. Finding what worked and what didn’t. I’m now using Ritza Tiger thread and couldn’t be happier. There’s a small bin in my shop that is full of old thread that I will never touch again.
Rocky Mountain Leather sells sample cards for their various sizes and colors for 2 brands they sell. The cards are great to have to ensure proper size and greatm for contrasting thread color to dyed and they are only $6. Of course the best is tiger thread is sold every where so the card is a universal depending on where you shop. They also sell sample cards with dyed leather swatches (I think they are the same price but cant say for sure). Just type "sample" in the search bar on their website. Have a great day!
I am just starting to use a laser engraver on leather, & would love some tips & tricks with this technique. I’m challenged right now with how to best clean up after the engraver-leaves quite a bit of charred leather bits which has to be cleaned up properly, or it’ll get on the suede; then you’ve got even bigger challenges!
Mike, for the really small punches, you can get a rat tail file in welding supply. Small round files or small grit sandpaper wrapped around dowels for some large punches. That's just to remove the burr after sharpening the outside edge. Just a suggestion that's worked for me.
Sensei as for a tip on cutting leather.....in your journal video you talked about adding I think a 1/4 inch to the sides on one of the pieces so when it came time to trim you get a cleaner edge. Do you advocate this for all projects? As a newbie it makes total sense to me. Thank you for teaching!!!
Hi Frank, If possible, then yes, this will give you super clean edges every time!. If you don't do this you can always run sandpaper around the edge to get everything even. Hope that helps!
Great video as always, have you ever or could you do a video on making a strop, they look pretty simple and would go well with your sharpening tutorial. Thank you so much
Hey Chuck! I have a question for you. Firstly, I love your channel. I found it a few days ago and I'm absolutely loving how much I can learn from just one source. It's incredible. I've always appreciated the artwork of wood work and leather crafting. I'm brand new and will be gathering some tools from your website soon :). So anyway, I have a project already in mind. I want to make a beautiful leather sleeve for the butt stock of a rifle with those little "C"-shaped rings that will hold a few extra rounds. When I first looked around at other peoples' projects I noticed that none of them were making theirs to fit over a check riser. I may be a little different than most but I actually want to see the leather cornering over and around the cheek riser. Although, I'm a little worried about how you would go about molding a semi-thick piece of leather so that it will sit flush onto the butt stock and the riser because the butt stock isn't a very flat surface so I'm just really unsure about how it would turn out. I want it to look as professional as possible. Also, is it possible to remold or reshape a molded piece of leather in case of improper fitting? Thanks for your time and your knowledge!
Hi Travis, Thanks for your comment! So glad you like our videos! Also, having a project that your excited about making is the BEST way to get started! The cheek riser isn’t something I’ve done (great idea for a video and I’ll put that on the list!), but, it would just be basic wet forming and you could use something like a 4/5 oz., for a more tight mold or a 6/7 oz. maybe, for less molding but more solid. We have a Leather Element on Wet Forming (our UA-cam channel) and it is really easy to do. The only trick is to be patient and work the form for, say 5 minutes, let it dry a half hour, work it again and then maybe one more time. Then give it a good 24 hours to dry. You’ll be amazed at how tight and clean you can get a mold with just your fingers and water. Also, as long as you haven’t added dye, oil, top coat…you can re-wet and work the form tighter. See if this helps? If you'd like, drop us your email address and we can help you along the way!
Hi Chuck, this old LEATHER SMITH has some ideas that I use in my shop, I had the same problem on my teaching bench I went 2 a big box store an purchased the rubber that wood worker's use 2 stop there projects from moving around, it comes in a role, I rolled it out and placed my granite slabs on top, no more bounce and they do not move.
Jacob Heard I have done this too, I do understand that it can vary slightly from leather to leather but at least I can tell at a glance the red from the yellow and the light brown from a dark brown.
Counter point to using inexpensive clips: those office supply "alligator clips" are still viable provides you place something between the jaws of the clamp and the leather. This is done all the time in woodworking to keep from maring the surface of the finish product. I won't disagree with you that a lightweight clamp still has value. Sometimes all you need is a light touch.
Great video! I wonder if a piece of a rug anti-slip pad would work as well as the duct tape? Duct tape is cheap, but I'm always a fan of solutions that don't need to regularly be replaced.
Chuck, Thank you again for your insights into the leather craft. I am new to the craft and I must tell you, you have been the biggest help for me! There are tons of videos out mainly people just doing the work to sell you their stuff, not really a big help but some tips. I think I have watched all your videos and a lot of them twice. My biggest problems I am running into is using the grooving tool on rounded corners. I was using a 50 deg but have backed down to a 25 but its not the look I am going for, any tips here? I am starting out on wallets and I have your 2-3 oz belly veg tan and I am skiving it down to be even flatter and am using a French Skiver any other tips here. Thank you again and sorry for the long post. ~Frank
Hi there, Thank you so much for your comment, I'm glad to hear the videos have been helpful! On your tool you're having trouble with on corners, are you referring to a stitch groover or an edge beveler? Groover: www.weaverleathersupply.com/catalog/item-detail/8069/stitch-groover/pr_10672 Edge Beveler: www.weaverleathersupply.com/catalog/item-detail/00080/master-tools-edge-beveler/pr_56685
Love your videos! Did my first leather scabbard for a sword and dagger following your method and they came out great! Question: I have made knives in the past with stacked leather handles, similar to a traditional K-Bar. Any tips or advice on the best ways to get the best look and longest life from these types of handles? Thanks!
Hi Jonathon, So glad the scabbard came out nicely! The stacked leather handle isn’t tough but it takes a bit of patience and much more explanation than I can give you here. Give us a minute because it’s a great idea for a Project Video and I’ll put that at the top of the list! Thanks so much for asking!
Thank you Chuck and Happy new year to you from the UK. I know you've done sharpening videos before but I have a dreadful time trying to get a decent edge on my Oval Punches (crew punches) and strap end punches. Any tips?
Hello UK! And Happy New year! I hope it’s a good one for you! There’s a couple of ways to go so see if any work for you. The outside of the punches (end, oblong, round…) can be stropped with some jewelers rouge. For the inside of something like an oblong, trace or round hole (larger mostly) I wrap a piece of light sandpaper around the end of a paint brush handle (or wooden dowel) and tape it to the handle about half way from the end of the paint brush handle. With this I can sand the inside of the punch cutting edge. It’s not perfect, and I imagine there’s a tool out there that does this, but the sandpaper works pretty well for me. See if this helps.
Thank you so much for taking the time to help me. I'll certainly try your suggested approach. I only buy decent quality tools (Osborne etc) but increasingly I find they arrive with no sharp edge at all.
Good information, thanks! What use is the piece of what looks like light tan granite on the workbench? The other piece was under the cutting board before putting the scrap leather on top to cushion the cutting board.
Great tips thanks Chuck!. Like you, I have an ever growing box of off cuts, as you say, all paid for so I want to use them, but what’s your top five small item projects to make, and maybe sell, to make best use of them.
That’s a great idea for a video! Good call! I just put that at the top of the list for a Leather Element and we’ll get one done for you! Thanks for sending that in!
Tassels? Art Masks? Ceiling dangle mobile? Chip up some and blow it on a glue surfaced figure? Pouch with little chips can make knee / elbow pads? Flying saucer game [little discs] safe for use in the living room? Overlap like shingles for wall art?
When, where and why would you use a cold creasing tool compared to a heated creasing iron and is the product better than just grooving a line before pricking and stiching? Thanks
Creasing iron are used to get nice finitions on edges you don't sew on them. You must heat the Iron for chrome tan or it will not crease, but you can do it cold on veg tan (better if it's wet)
Hi Chuck, I hope you're holding up well at this tricky time. I (and I think others) would love to see a video covering one particular problem. When I dye my veg tan (with pro dye) it stiffens it. I want it to be supple again but also have a glossy water resistant finish. I use Neatsfoot, wax and mink oil but what order do I apply these in. I guess it's the dye first but how do I proceed from there? Your help will be really appreciated.
Hi Luke, A lot of folks will actually apply a light coat of Neatsfoot to the leather before dyeing it. I would try that and see if it helps and then you can apply the mink oil and something like an Aussie Leather Conditioner after the dye has dried. Just be careful and don't apply a heavy coat of the oil prior to dyeing so your dye will still soak in evenly.
I’m a newbie. I recently made a belt using 8/9 oz strap. But it felt a bit flimsy so I decided to back it with 3/4 oz. I punched nearly 500 holes for sewing which required nearly 30 feet of thread. With 15 feet on each of two needles I had to deal with endless tangles. Any hints on hand sewing with long threads?
Hi Jim, Yes, that is most frustrating. You can always “hide” a knot along the way. When gluing the belt together pick a spot on each side about half way down the stitch line and don’t add glue in those small spots. With this you only have to sew half the length because you can hide a knot in that little pocket (without glue) then add glue to close that edge. Start the next stitch right where you left off and it will be unnoticeable. If half the length is still too much then start in the middle, between the end and “no glue” spot, and sew towards the ends and then towards the no glue spot. You’ll have two knots in the no glue area but they will flatten when you hammer down the stitch line and add glue. If you don't want to go that route and want to keep it one piece of thread then the only thing I can tell you is make sure you have plenty of space to pull your thread straight before making the next stitch and making sure you have a good thread, like Ritza Tiger thread, will help reduce the knots.
do you have a pdf pattern for a cross draw knife sheath with some tooling on it??? any help i would be greatful thanks this the third time i have asked
If you're cutting lots of straight pieces that are too short for the strap cutter, use a thick straight edges, the regular straight edge, and two spacers. ibb.co/X5g5m7h
I've a question: how would you go about making replica holsters? For example, I recently purchased a Zastava M57 and would like to make a holster that would match the type of would have been issued with.
The Zastava looks like it’s a 1911 frame. If that is the case then look for our series (all short chapters) on Making A Leather Holster on our UA-cam channel. I use a 1911 blue gun so the pattern would fit nicely and the video will fill you in on all kinds of tricks as well! Good Luck with it! ua-cam.com/play/PLzvwlO3D_z7fy1Q_hgEgkdiJz5Jry0xZK.html
I always forget to say this, so since I have it on my mind, thank you for mentioning anything about "keeping your budget in mind". I still have most of my tools from about 40 years ago (the military had me kind of messing with leather with long periods without it), but even now I know how quick the $$ can add up. I know even now I sometimes think that I need everything under the sun, but will pause and try to figure out what I can use rather than spending large quantities of money. That isn't to say that I don't, but I am a lot more selective in what I spend it on. Makes my wife a lot happier as well. Go figure.... Thanks again Chuck
Chuck is the man! I get such a kick out of this guy
I love how you setup your videos, professional, to the point and very useful. Thank you Chuck! Much appreciated
Thank you so much!
Chuck, keep them coming! You’re on a ROLL…..
Awesome Information 👌 Mr Chuck 👏
I always enjoy a high energy Chuck video! Good tips too.
Instead of a piece of leather under cutting boards and mats, I use draw liner found in the kitchen section of stores. The thin foam style. It helps dampen noise, keeps them from slipping, no sticky tape, I still have the leather to use and it's good in the toolbox draw to keep tools from rolling and damage.
A little bit of non slip shelf liner is really good for holding slippery things in place and can be purchased at most dollar stores
Love the tips. They are relevant to everyone from the beginner to the professional.
Tank you for your advice, very good trucs
Years ago I worked at Tandy Leather in Knoxville. They had built a work table. It had heavy top construction with 6 large legs - for stability when pounding. The only drawback was, to prevent bounce etc, the top had no overhang - meaning it was 'standing work only.' It also had a strong lower 'ledge' - useful for storage; it also gave added stability. It was large enough to work a half-hide on. Also, they had covered the top with what you called "poundo board". In their case they glued it down with either Tandy white leather glue or rubber cement - making it easy to replace worn out pieces. It gave us a solid dedicated work bench for pounding, tooling , cutting and dyeing.
Very nice! Very clean ! Very professional! :-)
New to the craft. I started by watching your videos. I always get something to use from each one. Thanks for the great work!!
Thank you, James!
One of the best videos to date
Excellent tips. These are invaluable to newbies like myself.
Thank you for watching, so glad the videos have been helpful!
Hello Chuck! long time watcher- heres a tip- keep a notebook of what weights and thread sizes go together- got a scrap of 8oz? run 2 lines of stitches with your fave weight threads- keep it available to show folks/customers or compare! Thread size and choice can make or break some projects!
Great tips and tricks. Thank you Chuck.
Another outstanding video that will keep me coming to these very useful videos by Weaver Leather craft.
Thank you so much!
some of the best tips to date, Thanks from Tampa
Thank you so much, Scott!
Great stuff, Chuck. Looking forward to more of your list.
I LOVE all the useful tips! Please keep 'em coming!
Thank you, Shirley!
Great video thanks
Greetings, very helpful. Thanks for sharing. pax, PL
Great tips! I love your videos!
Thank you!
Love the tips. Another awesome video
Has there been a video on thread, lacing, and needles? That was the hardest part of getting started for me. Finding what worked and what didn’t. I’m now using Ritza Tiger thread and couldn’t be happier. There’s a small bin in my shop that is full of old thread that I will never touch again.
Hi there! We did a video on hand stitching and we are working on some more stitching videos, covering chisels, thread sizes, etc.
Thanks!
Rocky Mountain Leather sells sample cards for their various sizes and colors for 2 brands they sell. The cards are great to have to ensure proper size and greatm for contrasting thread color to dyed and they are only $6. Of course the best is tiger thread is sold every where so the card is a universal depending on where you shop. They also sell sample cards with dyed leather swatches (I think they are the same price but cant say for sure). Just type "sample" in the search bar on their website. Have a great day!
Always look forward to your videos and find useful information in them. Thank you for doing these😎
Thank you!
Great tips Chuck thanks🤠👍
Thanks so much, Ty!
I am just starting to use a laser engraver on leather, & would love some tips & tricks with this technique. I’m challenged right now with how to best clean up after the engraver-leaves quite a bit of charred leather bits which has to be cleaned up properly, or it’ll get on the suede; then you’ve got even bigger challenges!
Your videos made me start leather crafting and i love it! Can you have a video about hot creasing the edges?
Chuck I added hole punch dot's to my clamps to prevent any possible damage.
Thank you
Great tips! Thanks for sharing!
Chuck. I'm at a point where I need to sharpen some punches any tricks or tips. Happy trails
Mike, for the really small punches, you can get a rat tail file in welding supply. Small round files or small grit sandpaper wrapped around dowels for some large punches. That's just to remove the burr after sharpening the outside edge. Just a suggestion that's worked for me.
Sensei as for a tip on cutting leather.....in your journal video you talked about adding I think a 1/4 inch to the sides on one of the pieces so when it came time to trim you get a cleaner edge. Do you advocate this for all projects? As a newbie it makes total sense to me. Thank you for teaching!!!
Hi Frank,
If possible, then yes, this will give you super clean edges every time!. If you don't do this you can always run sandpaper around the edge to get everything even. Hope that helps!
Nice solutions
Great video as always, have you ever or could you do a video on making a strop, they look pretty simple and would go well with your sharpening tutorial. Thank you so much
Hey Chuck! I have a question for you. Firstly, I love your channel. I found it a few days ago and I'm absolutely loving how much I can learn from just one source. It's incredible. I've always appreciated the artwork of wood work and leather crafting. I'm brand new and will be gathering some tools from your website soon :). So anyway, I have a project already in mind. I want to make a beautiful leather sleeve for the butt stock of a rifle with those little "C"-shaped rings that will hold a few extra rounds. When I first looked around at other peoples' projects I noticed that none of them were making theirs to fit over a check riser. I may be a little different than most but I actually want to see the leather cornering over and around the cheek riser. Although, I'm a little worried about how you would go about molding a semi-thick piece of leather so that it will sit flush onto the butt stock and the riser because the butt stock isn't a very flat surface so I'm just really unsure about how it would turn out. I want it to look as professional as possible. Also, is it possible to remold or reshape a molded piece of leather in case of improper fitting? Thanks for your time and your knowledge!
Hi Travis,
Thanks for your comment! So glad you like our videos! Also, having a project that your excited about making is the BEST way to get started! The cheek riser isn’t something I’ve done (great idea for a video and I’ll put that on the list!), but, it would just be basic wet forming and you could use something like a 4/5 oz., for a more tight mold or a 6/7 oz. maybe, for less molding but more solid. We have a Leather Element on Wet Forming (our UA-cam channel) and it is really easy to do. The only trick is to be patient and work the form for, say 5 minutes, let it dry a half hour, work it again and then maybe one more time. Then give it a good 24 hours to dry. You’ll be amazed at how tight and clean you can get a mold with just your fingers and water. Also, as long as you haven’t added dye, oil, top coat…you can re-wet and work the form tighter. See if this helps?
If you'd like, drop us your email address and we can help you along the way!
Happy New Year. Please - a top to bottom series of tutorials on leather armour... :)
We will be incorporating more armor videos for sure!
Like a video on different stitching punches and the usage of each.
Hi Brad,
We are working on some chisel videos now, should have one soon!
Hi Chuck, this old LEATHER SMITH has some ideas that I use in my shop, I had the same problem on my teaching bench I went 2 a big box store an purchased the rubber that wood worker's use 2 stop there projects from moving around, it comes in a role, I rolled it out and placed my granite slabs on top, no more bounce and they do not move.
Thanks for the tip, Jim!
What are some good beginner projects to do
Hi Christopher,
Small projects are great for beginners: card wallets, bracelets and cuffs, key fobs. Hope that gives you some ideas!
I liked to stain a piece of scrap leather and glue it to the top of the stain bottle so I will know how it looks on the leather
Jacob Heard I have done this too, I do understand that it can vary slightly from leather to leather but at least I can tell at a glance the red from the yellow and the light brown from a dark brown.
Great tips 👍
Counter point to using inexpensive clips: those office supply "alligator clips" are still viable provides you place something between the jaws of the clamp and the leather. This is done all the time in woodworking to keep from maring the surface of the finish product.
I won't disagree with you that a lightweight clamp still has value. Sometimes all you need is a light touch.
good vid no bs just getting right to it.
Thanks for the tips.👍
Great video! I wonder if a piece of a rug anti-slip pad would work as well as the duct tape? Duct tape is cheap, but I'm always a fan of solutions that don't need to regularly be replaced.
Hi Paul,
I think that should work just fine!
Chuck, Thank you again for your insights into the leather craft. I am new to the craft and I must tell you, you have been the biggest help for me! There are tons of videos out mainly people just doing the work to sell you their stuff, not really a big help but some tips. I think I have watched all your videos and a lot of them twice. My biggest problems I am running into is using the grooving tool on rounded corners. I was using a 50 deg but have backed down to a 25 but its not the look I am going for, any tips here? I am starting out on wallets and I have your 2-3 oz belly veg tan and I am skiving it down to be even flatter and am using a French Skiver any other tips here. Thank you again and sorry for the long post. ~Frank
Hi there,
Thank you so much for your comment, I'm glad to hear the videos have been helpful!
On your tool you're having trouble with on corners, are you referring to a stitch groover or an edge beveler?
Groover: www.weaverleathersupply.com/catalog/item-detail/8069/stitch-groover/pr_10672
Edge Beveler: www.weaverleathersupply.com/catalog/item-detail/00080/master-tools-edge-beveler/pr_56685
Good stuff!👍🏼
Hay Chuck, How do you calculate for shrinkage when wet forming or wet shaping leather? It's not always a factor but sometimes would be good to know.
Concise!
Love your videos! Did my first leather scabbard for a sword and dagger following your method and they came out great! Question: I have made knives in the past with stacked leather handles, similar to a traditional K-Bar. Any tips or advice on the best ways to get the best look and longest life from these types of handles? Thanks!
Hi Jonathon,
So glad the scabbard came out nicely! The stacked leather handle isn’t tough but it takes a bit of patience and much more explanation than I can give you here. Give us a minute because it’s a great idea for a Project Video and I’ll put that at the top of the list! Thanks so much for asking!
I heard the word "Slip knot" so many times in a video about leather that now I just want to make weird masks for a metal band.
Mark Langridge
,
Thank you Chuck and Happy new year to you from the UK. I know you've done sharpening videos before but I have a dreadful time trying to get a decent edge on my Oval Punches (crew punches) and strap end punches. Any tips?
Hello UK! And Happy New year! I hope it’s a good one for you! There’s a couple of ways to go so see if any work for you. The outside of the punches (end, oblong, round…) can be stropped with some jewelers rouge. For the inside of something like an oblong, trace or round hole (larger mostly) I wrap a piece of light sandpaper around the end of a paint brush handle (or wooden dowel) and tape it to the handle about half way from the end of the paint brush handle. With this I can sand the inside of the punch cutting edge. It’s not perfect, and I imagine there’s a tool out there that does this, but the sandpaper works pretty well for me. See if this helps.
Thank you so much for taking the time to help me. I'll certainly try your suggested approach. I only buy decent quality tools (Osborne etc) but increasingly I find they arrive with no sharp edge at all.
Good information, thanks! What use is the piece of what looks like light tan granite on the workbench? The other piece was under the cutting board before putting the scrap leather on top to cushion the cutting board.
The granite is used for tooling and stamping but it also gives a good solid surface to lay your cutting board on for punching.
Great tips thanks Chuck!.
Like you, I have an ever growing box of off cuts, as you say, all paid for so I want to use them, but what’s your top five small item projects to make, and maybe sell, to make best use of them.
That’s a great idea for a video! Good call! I just put that at the top of the list for a Leather Element and we’ll get one done for you! Thanks for sending that in!
Tassels? Art Masks? Ceiling dangle mobile? Chip up some and blow it on a glue surfaced figure? Pouch with little chips can make knee / elbow pads? Flying saucer game [little discs] safe for use in the living room? Overlap like shingles for wall art?
When, where and why would you use a cold creasing tool compared to a heated creasing iron and is the product better than just grooving a line before pricking and stiching? Thanks
Creasing iron are used to get nice finitions on edges you don't sew on them. You must heat the Iron for chrome tan or it will not crease, but you can do it cold on veg tan (better if it's wet)
Hi Chuck, I hope you're holding up well at this tricky time. I (and I think others) would love to see a video covering one particular problem. When I dye my veg tan (with pro dye) it stiffens it. I want it to be supple again but also have a glossy water resistant finish. I use Neatsfoot, wax and mink oil but what order do I apply these in. I guess it's the dye first but how do I proceed from there? Your help will be really appreciated.
Hi Luke,
A lot of folks will actually apply a light coat of Neatsfoot to the leather before dyeing it. I would try that and see if it helps and then you can apply the mink oil and something like an Aussie Leather Conditioner after the dye has dried. Just be careful and don't apply a heavy coat of the oil prior to dyeing so your dye will still soak in evenly.
Thank you so much Chuck. That really is 'useful advice'. I appreciate you taking the time to help me.
height of different workstations
*_Thanks_*
I’m a newbie. I recently made a belt using 8/9 oz strap. But it felt a bit flimsy so I decided to back it with 3/4 oz. I punched nearly 500 holes for sewing which required nearly 30 feet of thread. With 15 feet on each of two needles I had to deal with endless tangles. Any hints on hand sewing with long threads?
Hi Jim,
Yes, that is most frustrating. You can always “hide” a knot along the way. When gluing the belt together pick a spot on each side about half way down the stitch line and don’t add glue in those small spots. With this you only have to sew half the length because you can hide a knot in that little pocket (without glue) then add glue to close that edge. Start the next stitch right where you left off and it will be unnoticeable. If half the length is still too much then start in the middle, between the end and “no glue” spot, and sew towards the ends and then towards the no glue spot. You’ll have two knots in the no glue area but they will flatten when you hammer down the stitch line and add glue. If you don't want to go that route and want to keep it one piece of thread then the only thing I can tell you is make sure you have plenty of space to pull your thread straight before making the next stitch and making sure you have a good thread, like Ritza Tiger thread, will help reduce the knots.
do you have a pdf pattern for a cross draw knife sheath with some tooling on it??? any help i would be greatful thanks this the third time i have asked
If you're cutting lots of straight pieces that are too short for the strap cutter, use a thick straight edges, the regular straight edge, and two spacers.
ibb.co/X5g5m7h
Also works for chrome tans that won't feed through the strap cutter.
Weaverleathercraft/Chuck...I am beyond frustrated. I have been looking for the stand that you have all your stamps in. Was that purchased or built?
Hi Mike,
Sorry you're frustrated! Chuck built that stand. It's a 4 x 4 with drilled holes for each stamp handle.
Sorry, reading back Sean already suggested that. My apologies Sean.
I've a question: how would you go about making replica holsters? For example, I recently purchased a Zastava M57 and would like to make a holster that would match the type of would have been issued with.
The Zastava looks like it’s a 1911 frame. If that is the case then look for our series (all short chapters) on Making A Leather Holster on our UA-cam channel. I use a 1911 blue gun so the pattern would fit nicely and the video will fill you in on all kinds of tricks as well! Good Luck with it!
ua-cam.com/play/PLzvwlO3D_z7fy1Q_hgEgkdiJz5Jry0xZK.html
@@WeaverLeatherSupply Right, and I have done that, but I mean more like their military issue holsters.
Now I gotta go to my trash bin and save my small scraps. Gotta get my money's worth.
"Scrap leather" Ha ha, no such thing in my house.
First comment! Sorry i wasted it...