@@thoroughbreddiesel Thanks for this! My #4 started leaking 5 minutes away from home. Could smeel fuel them WTS light came on. Made it home. Replaced with updated part today. Runs great , cleared P1048 code but wait to start light has stayed on. Any suggestions?
This video just saved me from being stranded at the side of the road. I blew my #4 fuel line. I was thinking about towing the truck back home (over an hour away). After watching this video I decided to buy the line and replace it myself. Saved $$$$ and now I'm getting 20mpg on highway!
Thanks for this was on my way to work 3 hrs away from home when #4 blew up wife picked up new line at orileys brought my tools and torque wrench and was up in running in a few hours totally saved me 🙏🏿
I’m not gonna lie, I subscribed cause you said irregardless. I say that all the time, and people get frustrated cause I say that instead of regardless even though they mean the same thing. Also my #4 and this helped, thanks!
Good vid. Guys should keep in mind that the #4 has been updated twice and the #6 once (has extra brace). So even if you replaced one of these a long time ago, there may be a better part avail.
Thank you so much for all your help. I appreciate you and all the information 🙏 I’ve bought a few things from you, and extremely happy with your quality. Just thought I should chime in and give a public thanks 👍
Thank you for this video. This EXACT same thing just happened to me down to the exact place the line cracked. $83 for the replacement. I was thinking $30-$50. OUCH.
Nice video. Your orientation of the crows foot will multiply your torque value. To get an accurate value you need to keep the crows foot at 90 degrees to the head of the torque wrench. Also I’ve seen where the cross over tube is torqued to 44 ftlbs and you said 37 ftlbs, is this an updated value or is there a range.
You said there's no bleeding on a common rail. How does the air escape from the fuel system? Do you just crank the motor till it starts or what? By the way great video! Was very useful during install!
It has already happened to me on my old truck with the number for fuel line. I ended up buying another 2006 5.9 and now I keep a spare number four fuel line behind the backseat.
Thanks for this! My #4 started leaking 5 minutes away from home. Could smeel fuel them WTS light came on. Made it home. Replaced with updated part today. Runs great , cleared P1048 code but wait to start light has stayed on. Any suggestions?
I just bought an 06 5.9 with 185k miles. Runs fine. The number 4 would have failed by now if it was a problem, wouldn’t it? Or should I just replace it anyway?
It may already have the updated line on it. Only way to know for sure is to look at it and compare it to the one in this video, which is the updated line.
10:30 CDI makes Snapon torque wrenches. I have found it advantageous and cheaper to buy the CDI brand. Why? Because the CDI has a middle select to lock the ratchet fixed so it doesn’t ratchet one way or another.
I think I have a return line failure. I can drive it, but I am blowing fuel all over the place. It's covering everything underneath my truck and coated my rear wheels. Engine bay is dry... but you can see it come out over the trans somewhere... idk.
Thanks for this video! This happened to me today and I was afraid it was something much worse. Once I have the part, shouldn't be too bad to replace. That being said: what is it about #4? Are the others prone to this failure? I'm guessing not if the updated isolator is only offered on this particular line? Replacing one is manageable, replacing all gets pricey.
Check lift pump pressure, then get scanner and watch actual vs. commanded rail pressure. If high side isn't keeping up, then suspect a bad CP3 or injector.
@@thoroughbreddiesel ok thank you . Already had the injectors rebuilt . Also checked throttle pedal(pedal good).I wish you were close by. I would just drop it off to you guys to look it over.
In your opinion after I finish changing injectors is it ok to leave clamps off just long enough to start truck,warm truck and drive it long enough to verify no leaks and job done right.Then install line clamps
I have a 2005 Dodge 3500 SRW quad cab with short box. Has 5.9 Cummins. Bone stock except I have a K&N air filter. What recommendations do you make for up grades. Tow a RV. Has plenty of power for what I do. I am more interested in longevity of engine and fuel savings. Thank you for great videos and your time in this matter.
I am replacing cylinder #1 line. Is the rail side fitting for #1 the same procedure as it would be for the head side? Anything different about #1? The fitting looks different than the others
Any tips for 2005 5.9 6 speed very bad shake not driving the truck the hole truck shakes front to back at an idle you rev it up the shake goes away replaced motor mounts did not help watched videos of people having the same issue but no results
It could be, 4 is the usual culprit and it drains with the slant of the block. It could very well be the #6, really just look for the visible leak with the truck running.
Having no start issue with a 03 5.9L 305h Cummins and it starts runs great with a shot of ether. Found very slight leak at the back motor banjo. Is that enough to cause a no start and it has a new lift pump, injector pump. Mechanic wants to replace all the injectors. I’m already going into poverty and need advice on what I could check myself. Thanks for any advice
My #4 just failed , wait to start light came on for no reason then about a mile later check engine light came on. Then a couple of miles later noticed strong fuel smell. We shut down and found engine compartment totally soaked with fuel. Going to order new line from you guys can you tell me anything about why the wait to start light would be related to this. I have seen other folks have the same warnings come up when this happened to them. Maybe fuel soaked a temp sensor connector or some other electrical connection. Has anybody got any good ideas how to safely clean up all the fuel mess under the hood and underside of the truck?
Take the FCA out, you mean the fuel regulator out of the back of the CP3? That is odd, I would guess at first thought that you have a high return rate on your injectors.
Lefty Hunt hey, did you figure out your problem? I'm having the same problem, only when I take the fuel filter out, I have to dry it off before the truck will start.. if I wait and put it in wet, won't start, if I blow dry the filter, starts up and runs great. Been fighting this for years now. Any help?
My number four was just cut off by the injector.... engine stalled as I was going on freeway. Question; will I need to do anything to start the engine after replacing the tube?
Once the line is replaced, just crank in 5-7 second lengths until the truck starts. Within reason. The truck should start the first couple of times you crank.
I'm having a horrible time after replacing all of the lines with them leaking from the fittings. It's like we can't get them torqued down correctly. We have tried removing and reinstalling lines and it doesn't seem to matter what we do, we can't get most of them to seal. It'll look like they're sealed idling, go for a drive and three are leaking again!
Thanks for the video. my#4 just failed. easy fix with a case of liquid libation.
YW. Glad you were able to do it yourself.
@@thoroughbreddiesel Thanks for this! My #4 started leaking 5 minutes away from home. Could smeel fuel them WTS light came on. Made it home. Replaced with updated part today. Runs great , cleared P1048 code but wait to start light has stayed on. Any suggestions?
Just happened to me
This video just saved me from being stranded at the side of the road. I blew my #4 fuel line. I was thinking about towing the truck back home (over an hour away). After watching this video I decided to buy the line and replace it myself. Saved $$$$ and now I'm getting 20mpg on highway!
Glad we could help!
Thanks for this was on my way to work 3 hrs away from home when #4 blew up wife picked up new line at orileys brought my tools and torque wrench and was up in running in a few hours totally saved me 🙏🏿
Awesome! Good stuff! Exactly why we take the time to make these videos. 💪
Good wife!
I’m not gonna lie, I subscribed cause you said irregardless. I say that all the time, and people get frustrated cause I say that instead of regardless even though they mean the same thing. Also my #4 and this helped, thanks!
Glad we speak the same language!
Another #4 on 05 bites the dust. Thanks for the vid, wish I did this when I bought the new injectors from you guys.
Thank you for the video! Fixed my #4 line in under an hour. I have purchased many items from you all. Great Service and fast shipping!!
Good vid. Guys should keep in mind that the #4 has been updated twice and the #6 once (has extra brace). So even if you replaced one of these a long time ago, there may be a better part avail.
Thank you so much for all your help. I appreciate you and all the information 🙏 I’ve bought a few things from you, and extremely happy with your quality. Just thought I should chime in and give a public thanks 👍
You are so welcome! Thanks for letting us know.
thanks for this vid! I believe this is what has happened to our 03 3500. great tutorial. much appreciated
Your welcome and thank you for showing your appreciation.
Thank you for the video it helped alot! It shut me down 3 hours away from home, but oreillys had one in stock.
Glad I could help!
Hell ya same exact shit happened too me, same crack,location etc.
Much thanks man, have a great day,week,etc.
Thanks!!!
Thank you for this video. This EXACT same thing just happened to me down to the exact place the line cracked. $83 for the replacement. I was thinking $30-$50. OUCH.
Thanks! You got me back on the road today! However finding a 19mm crow foot wrench requires the CIA!🤣
Glad I could help get you back on the road. 😀
Cummins should give this away in a recall ! This with several other things on these trucks that break and fail after 90 thousand miles.
Here I am sitting on the side of the road watching this video 😅 waiting on buddies to come with a fifth wheel trailer
Me too!
Same
You and me both 🤦♂️
Now it's me. 😄
6 hours from home in Paris Texas and having this problem lol
Same issue same #4 fixing today.... Thanks for the helpful video.
Good luck! NP and we are happy to help if you run into any snags.
Great information just got mine up and running
Glad it helped
Nice video. Your orientation of the crows foot will multiply your torque value. To get an accurate value you need to keep the crows foot at 90 degrees to the head of the torque wrench. Also I’ve seen where the cross over tube is torqued to 44 ftlbs and you said 37 ftlbs, is this an updated value or is there a range.
Turns it backwards...realizes it the wrong way.. "i usually try to turn it both directions..." lmao good save.
Extremely helpful thank you
Thank you!
You said there's no bleeding on a common rail. How does the air escape from the fuel system? Do you just crank the motor till it starts or what? By the way great video! Was very useful during install!
yup, crank till it starts. Air goes out the fuel return out of the head
It has already happened to me on my old truck with the number for fuel line. I ended up buying another 2006 5.9 and now I keep a spare number four fuel line behind the backseat.
It happens often. That is why we want the community to know about this problem before it becomes a bigger issue.
WindersRanger ह
My new upgraded #3 and #4 line just cracked 1 week from another. They were only a year old
Thanks for this! My #4 started leaking 5 minutes away from home. Could smeel fuel them WTS light came on. Made it home. Replaced with updated part today. Runs great , cleared P1048 code but wait to start light has stayed on. Any suggestions?
Did you get yours fixed? I'm having the same problem just happened today. WTS light came on and stayed on code p1222, also smelled fuel in cab
I just bought an 06 5.9 with 185k miles. Runs fine. The number 4 would have failed by now if it was a problem, wouldn’t it? Or should I just replace it anyway?
It may already have the updated line on it. Only way to know for sure is to look at it and compare it to the one in this video, which is the updated line.
10:30 CDI makes Snapon torque wrenches. I have found it advantageous and cheaper to buy the CDI brand.
Why? Because the CDI has a middle select to lock the ratchet fixed so it doesn’t ratchet one way or another.
I've got an '06 Dodge 3500 with a 59 Cummins fuel leak on the right left side of the block would it cost to the surge
The leak needs to be addressed before you can accurately diagnose the surge.
I think I have a return line failure. I can drive it, but I am blowing fuel all over the place. It's covering everything underneath my truck and coated my rear wheels. Engine bay is dry... but you can see it come out over the trans somewhere... idk.
Are there any other failure spots that create the same symptoms? Return line, etc.?
All of the lines could get wear points in them but this line has been the worst by far.
Thanks for this video! This happened to me today and I was afraid it was something much worse. Once I have the part, shouldn't be too bad to replace. That being said: what is it about #4? Are the others prone to this failure? I'm guessing not if the updated isolator is only offered on this particular line? Replacing one is manageable, replacing all gets pricey.
We have seen the others leak, but not nearly as frequent as the #4. The number 4 line is also the only one that has and updated isolator.
@@thoroughbreddiesel gotcha. Thanks for the quick reply. I'm replacing #4 tomorrow 🤞 and will be keeping an eye on all of them.
7-1-23 we’ll the p1222 code pops up and the wts light turns on. Seems to be a headache online with finding a solution? Any ideas ? Thanks
Check lift pump pressure, then get scanner and watch actual vs. commanded rail pressure. If high side isn't keeping up, then suspect a bad CP3 or injector.
@@thoroughbreddiesel ok thank you . Already had the injectors rebuilt . Also checked throttle pedal(pedal good).I wish you were close by. I would just drop it off to you guys to look it over.
In your opinion after I finish changing injectors is it ok to leave clamps off just long enough to start truck,warm truck and drive it long enough to verify no leaks and job done right.Then install line clamps
I cant really advise you of that because they are there to add stability to the line for sure.
I replaced my #4 with the new design and the base where you bolt the 10mm piece broke and ruined my fuel line
Sorry to hear that. Hope you got it fixed.
@@thoroughbreddiesel yeah its a simple fix, but now im gonna keep an eye on it , make sure it does’nt happen again
What is the best way to torque number 6 injector nut? Crows foot? It's difficult to get a regular torque wrench on it
You think you could do a video about replacing injectors on an 04 6.0 or a regulated fule return or both
I have a 2005 Dodge 3500 SRW quad cab with short box. Has 5.9 Cummins. Bone stock except I have a K&N air filter. What recommendations do you make for up grades. Tow a RV. Has plenty of power for what I do. I am more interested in longevity of engine and fuel savings. Thank you for great videos and your time in this matter.
Fass fuel filtration system. Pre 2008 emissions lucas magnum ci4 oil.
I am replacing cylinder #1 line. Is the rail side fitting for #1 the same procedure as it would be for the head side? Anything different about #1? The fitting looks different than the others
Nothing different we do suggest using a second wrench the the feed tube hold down when removing the line (head side)
If I wanted to re torq all of my injector tubes would I need to remove all the fuel lines?
Do you use the torque wrench with crows foot on injector lines on 6.7 Cummins also? Thx!
How do you relieve the pressure in the fuel line before removing it ?
No, once the line is opened there is no pressure on the fuel system. When the truck is not running, the system is at rest, no pressure.
@@thoroughbreddiesel I was told in school that there was pressure in system after you had it running on a common rail system
Would this throw p1222 code and wait to start light stay on after running
Nice
how i cane bleed the injection system of my 2004 5.9 cummins
Any tips for 2005 5.9 6 speed very bad shake not driving the truck the hole truck shakes front to back at an idle you rev it up the shake goes away replaced motor mounts did not help watched videos of people having the same issue but no results
Is the motor itself missing? Are there any engine codes?
Mine is leaking in the back of engine do you think it’s #6 ?
It could be, 4 is the usual culprit and it drains with the slant of the block. It could very well be the #6, really just look for the visible leak with the truck running.
@@thoroughbreddiesel thanks for answering
any tips on getting to the #3 line? Sensor plug is in the way and a pretty tight fit.
Really not a good way to do the #3 other than make small turns and be careful.
Great videos, im looking at replacing the lines, is it only #4 that has the updated clamps? or is there a set with updated clamps for all the lines?
Only #4 has the updated clamp.
Thoroughbred Diesel thanks for the response, just ordered a set from ya. Keep up the great products, videos and service!
Having no start issue with a 03 5.9L 305h Cummins and it starts runs great with a shot of ether. Found very slight leak at the back motor banjo. Is that enough to cause a no start and it has a new lift pump, injector pump. Mechanic wants to replace all the injectors. I’m already going into poverty and need advice on what I could check myself.
Thanks for any advice
My #4 just failed , wait to start light came on for no reason then about a mile later check engine light came on. Then a couple of miles later noticed strong fuel smell. We shut down and found engine compartment totally soaked with fuel. Going to order new line from you guys can you tell me anything about why the wait to start light would be related to this. I have seen other folks have the same warnings come up when this happened to them. Maybe fuel soaked a temp sensor connector or some other electrical connection. Has anybody got any good ideas how to safely clean up all the fuel mess under the hood and underside of the truck?
Wow that truck is quiet mine rattles way more
Lol and i bought the tool from snap on $95 for a china made tool. Great video and thank you!
Nice video sir any work for me sir I'm from India i want work with you
hi
i have a question am getting smoke in diesel engine return fuel pipe.
may be its combustion pressure .i want to know what it is cause??
Are you meaning you are seeing smoke from the fill spout when opened?
Thoroughbred Diesel smoke coming in return fuel pipe
Question: My check engine light is still on and throwing 2 codes on fuel issues. Will it reset itself or should I use an OBD to clear it?
A question my 5.9 hard to start unless if u take out the FCA or the fuel filter wait a min then put it back in then it starts?
Take the FCA out, you mean the fuel regulator out of the back of the CP3? That is odd, I would guess at first thought that you have a high return rate on your injectors.
Yea from the high pressure pump or I would take out the fuel filter that’s only way it will start
Have you tried re-torquing the feed tubes?
Lefty Hunt hey, did you figure out your problem? I'm having the same problem, only when I take the fuel filter out, I have to dry it off before the truck will start.. if I wait and put it in wet, won't start, if I blow dry the filter, starts up and runs great. Been fighting this for years now. Any help?
My number four was just cut off by the injector.... engine stalled as I was going on freeway.
Question; will I need to do anything to start the engine after replacing the tube?
Once the line is replaced, just crank in 5-7 second lengths until the truck starts. Within reason. The truck should start the first couple of times you crank.
I'm having a horrible time after replacing all of the lines with them leaking from the fittings. It's like we can't get them torqued down correctly. We have tried removing and reinstalling lines and it doesn't seem to matter what we do, we can't get most of them to seal. It'll look like they're sealed idling, go for a drive and three are leaking again!
Look to replace the feed tubes, and if the threads are damaged more than likely going to need to replace the lines too.
Are the any o-rings with those lines?
No, there are no o-rings on either end of the line.