If you liked this video or found it helpful, please "like" and "subscribe" to my channel. It really helps me out a lot. I have dozens of videos on troubleshooting and repairs of 1st generation Chevy Colorado and regularly add more. Check out the entire playlist here: ua-cam.com/play/PLZsiP8a81zDFWVAWL_RxIkDSn2TSAcU8y.html My current truck has 237,000 miles and is still running great. Hope to keep it that way a lot longer. Thanks!
After decades of doing car repairs in parking lots, I am so glad my wife and I bought a house with garage in May 2020. Hopefully my more recent and future videos will be much better than this one. ☺️
Congrats, and I enjoy your videos. I have a 2006 Canyon with the 4 cyl. I get a bad coil on cylinder 1 about once every 2 years, probably due to an oil leak at spark plug tube on that cylinder. I’ll eventually attempt to replace the valve cover gasket and spark plug tube gaskets, but it’s a bit tricky and I’m a little scared of peripheral damage. I live in a rural area and it’s hard to find a reasonably priced mechanic.
@@stevetackett581 good luck! I would recommend watching a few videos, and also checking on websites like 355nation, coloradofans, and also this Facebook group for tips: facebook.com/groups/1191961547485485 It might help to have a few spare parts handy before starting, like the rubber hose that goes between the intake resonator and valve cover, plugs, and a few spare coils, just in case anything goes bad or gets damaged during the swap. Good luck, let us know how it goes!
Good tip about the grounds! This is a good video - Get a tripod for your phone and that would make it an excellent video. I have an '04 Colorado - just had my cam sensors done by a pro mechanic = $360.00. I need a scan tool.!
Thank you! Glad to help. I do have a tripod now and have been trying to make my newer videos more "professional". We bought a house in 2020 so have a garage now, as well. After so many years of doing car repairs in a parking lot, it's a big upgrade. 😆 My 07 just rolled over 240,000 miles recently. Still running great; am glad to help others keep their trucks on the road, also. 😊
great vid loved how you zoomed in on stuff and pointed exactly to the parts and we're very descriptive I have an 04 GMC canyon that had a similar code. working through all the problems right now bought it for my father-in-law who ran the heck out of it to hell and back a lot of crap was broken. funny thing it was slow to start putting my volt meter on it and it was 10.5 volts I couldn't believe it actually started at that I had to go test my bolt meter on a different battery to get a good constant but yet it was 10.5 volts and it started I guess one of the cells is out going to go by new battery tomorrow
You're welcome! Glad the video was helpful. Take your time, work code-by-code, am sure you'll get it running right again. Lots of good videos on UA-cam and in the forums (355nation & coloradofans), and also the Facebook groups. Good luck!
Very common in the GMC Canyon as well. Replace and goes out every few months. Camshaft and crank sensors. Another problem is the anti theft system will shut down and then 10 mins later starts perfect again.
At least the sensors are easy to replace. Might want to try with a higher quality or different brand if they are failing frequently, maybe a genuine ACDelco part would last longer? 😀 Re: the anti-theft system, there is a wire-cutting trick to disable that. Lot of info about it in ColoradoFans and 355Nation websites. Personally I sent my PCM out for tuning (PCM of NC) and just had them disable it. Was easier for me that way. Good luck!
If anyone comes across this thread in the future, here is a short (2 minute) picture video describing the issue with Passlock in the 1st generation Chevy Colorado & GMC Canyon. I've included a few pictures and links to information in the description. Hope it helps! ua-cam.com/video/6fCL6sDm49s/v-deo.html
Hey so I got a 2006 Chevy Colorado 4 cyl and it’s giving me a p0365 camshaft sensor b bank 1 code any recommendations on what sensor this video is helpful thanks
Hi Roque! Thanks for checking out my Colorado repair video. How many miles are on your truck? Are you getting any other codes or performance issues? To the best of your knowledge, are they the original sensors? Or have they been replaced previously? Looking up your vehicle on RockAuto.com, it looks like it only has one camshaft position sensor. This varies depending on year and engine configuration. My vehicle shown in the video, for example, has two sensors (intake & exhaust side). GM GENUINE 2131557 should be the right part number for your vehicle. You always want to double-check that based on how your particular vehicle is configured. While replacing the sensor make sure to inspect the wiring harness for any damage. I would also recommend inspecting the VVT solenoid and cleaning/inspecting other sensors, wiring, and hoses. Engine sensors are a common point of failure in these trucks and I've got several videos on them. Here's a link to a couple to get you started: How to replace air filter, VVT solenoid, and other maintenance on a Chevy Colorado: ua-cam.com/video/U143gNZlWbU/v-deo.html How to replace MAF and MAP sensors in a Chevy Colorado: ua-cam.com/video/NgJvLiWsdsk/v-deo.html Hope this helps!
Mike, I have the same truck. I noticed that I don’t have a wire hooked to my camshaft sensor trying to find a wire diagram just in case I have to get a new wire and wire it in. I don’t know where it goes. any help on this
Hi! Thanks for the comment. What year is your truck and is it the original engine? In later years (2008+ I believe) they switched to a system that only uses one sensor. If your engine was replaced with one from an earlier vehicle you may only have one wire, and nothing going to the second sensor. What check engine codes are you getting?
Hi! Thanks for the comment. P0014 is the OBD-II generic code that the engine control module (ECM) has determined that the bank 1 exhaust camshaft is more advanced than what the ECM has commanded it be. I see your comment that you replaced the VVT solenoid but the code came back. One possibility is that the replacement part is defective. Have you also replaced the camshaft position sensors? In my 07 there are two. In your '08 there may only be one. Here's a video that has some information about those: ua-cam.com/video/oPyZqx0q2TQ/v-deo.html And a video with some more information about the VVT solenoid: ua-cam.com/video/U143gNZlWbU/v-deo.html Have you changed the oil with a good quality replacement since changing the sensor? How many miles on the truck? Are you getting any slapping or rattling noises on cold start, that could indicate a worn timing chain? Any indication of low oil pressure in the vehicle? Any indication of damage to the wiring going to the sensors? I'd start with any other of the aforementioned sensors, oil flush, and inspection of wiring. Also listen for any noises of a failing timing chain. Worst case scenario that's what it is. Challenging to replace, here's a mildly amusing video on one of those: ua-cam.com/video/-dI2pSmMy8Q/v-deo.html Good luck, let us know what you find out!
Hi! Thanks for the comment. No, the parts are not interchangeable. I recommend going back to the website where you ordered them from to cross-reference. Sites like rockauto.com might also be helpful to identify which is which.
Mike- I had the P0014 and P0017 codes on my 2006 Chevy Colorado WT (2.8L). About a week ago I replaced the VVT sensor and cleared the codes on my truck. Just before replacing the sensor, I also changed my oil. Ran great for a few days, but then started running rough at an idle like it had before and the check engine light came back on. This time, just the P0017 code. I am thinking of replacing the camshaft position sensors but all the auto part stores searches only pull one camshaft position sensor, the one on the intake side. I have even tried calling to talk to the parts counter directly and their searches will only pull the intake sensor...I am not having any luck finding the exhaust side sensor. I tried comparing the part number for your exhaust side sensor, but according to the AutoZone website that will not fit my truck. Any suggestions?
Hi! Mine is a 2007 with the I5. Your 2006 4-cylinder engine may be different. I did a quick check on RockAuto.com and didn't see a second one listed for your engine, either. Have you physically checked the engine to see if it has one sensor or two? That's probably where I'd start. It may be the 2.8 only has one. Also, when is the last time you did a tune-up? If your answer is "I don't know", it may be time to do that. Plugs, filters, also clean the MAF sensor and throttle body and make sure the ground blocks on the fenders are clean/tight. When you removed your old VVT solenoid were the screens intact? Or were some missing? Hopefully you don't have one of them lodged in an oil passage, or anything like that. How many miles are on the engine? Worst case scenario (in my opinion) would be you may need a new timing chain. So that's where I'd start. Visual confirmation on the number and location of the sensor(s). Replace as-needed. Drain the oil and check for any screens (if they were missing when you removed the old VVT sensor). Tune-up (if needed). I saw some anecdotal threads about also changing the O2 sensors, but would hold off on that as I don't think it's related. Good luck, let me know what you find out!
@@CompTechMike No, I have not physically looked. I didn't drive my truck to work today. I just assumed they all had 2. Will take a look when I get home tonight. Thanks for all the helpful videos!
@@CompTechMike Sorry, I didn't read your full post initially. I did my last tune up when I last changed my oil which was about a month ago. My truck has just shy of 130,000 miles on it. When I removed the old VVT senor, it did not appear to be missing any of the old screens...they were all intact. I bought the truck in December of 2020 and did an oil change on it shortly after purchasing and just went through everything. I noticed the oil dip stick was a bit milky whenever I would check the oil, even after the first time I changed the oil. However, after my most recent oil change and VVT sensor replacement, it seems to have improved. Not sure if that's just luck or somehow related. Anyway, I have found a reasonably priced camshaft position sensor online, thought it was worth a shot to try and get that P0017 code off. Will let you know what I find out!
Through the process of elimination, I determined the source of the P0017 code to be my timing chain. I am tackling the repair myself and boy, it’s a fun one! I am confident I’m on the right track however, as the plastic on one of the timing chain guides had actually broke off and the timing chain was wearing on the bare metal of the guide. The tensioner was also very far extended and the timing chain itself was loose. All signs to me I am making the “right” repair….even if it’s not an easy one!
@@sarahtweeten1975 little question? Was your truck stalling mine stalls when cold with jumping idle runs great for about 30 secs then rpm goes down and gotta restart it it doesn't do it all the time and sometimes it's about to stall but rpm's get back to normal (significant drop ~200rpm then gets back to 700) idle I have the P0017 code I replaced the throttle body MAP, MAF Camshaft Position Sensor and Crankshaft Position Sensor I don't hear any rattle could it still be the timing chain/ timing chain guard???? I'm starting to be out of ideas and kinda affraid to get the case open
I'm wondering why, my 2006 5cyl Chevy Colorado, got an Engine light & a knocking sound (like 2 spoons) inside the motor only to realize; after pulling in to the first gas station I got to; It lost a lot of oil & after replacing the oil & getting home, I got a code read about the position sensors? I towed it to my mechanic who had to remove the radiator to access & repair the leak but says the knocking sound is still there! I'd appreciate any ideas or suggestions on what the knocking sound could be & what the best route of repair might be? Thanks, E.
Hi! You mentioned getting a check engine light, correct? I'd start there. Either buy or borrow a code scanner (most auto parts stores will do this for free) or have your mechanic check the codes. What codes are you getting? I'd start by researching those. You can also remove the serpentine belt and run the engine momentarily. If the noise is gone with the belt removed, it means it's an accessory (such as alternator, water pump, power steering pump, or AC compressor) making the noise. If the noise continues with the belt removed, it means it's something internal in the engine. You didn't mention how many miles are on the vehicle, but from the sound you are describing and the oil loss you mentioned, it sounds like it may be the timing chain. This is a very challenging repair on our trucks. They call it "the $2,000 timing chain". I'd start by checking all of your codes first, however. Let us know what you find out. Good luck!
Ok, well.., my mechanic repaired a leak behind the radiator ; a broken seal of some sort ; and also said the serpentine belt was oil damaged, but the noise was still there after repair. He suggested I take it to the Dealer bc it appeared the noise was inside the engine block. And being these 5 cylinder trucks were no longer made after 2011, it would be difficult to find a 'usable' engine replacement in quick time! All things said, I took it to the dealer & they were able to find a 'new' (rebuilt) engine w/a 3Yr Warr., to replace the now defunct one of 155,000 miles & it only took a (2) two month wait to get it back!:^, At a total cost of Extended Warr., $4575. & my O.O.P. for labor $5033.= $9608. But I consider myself lucky, that I'm able to continue driving my lovely Champagne beauty for awhile longer & enjoy the many compliments I get from admirers & strangers! This is my little slice of happiness!:^) photos.app.goo.gl/LWqhPan47r5FUKcE8
I have same problem with my 07 Colorado 5 clyn 4 wheel Dr, only i have to wait 15 min before I try to start it. If I don't I have to wait another 15 min. I hope by changing these sensors will fix the issue. Have you had the same problem again sense you did the replacement? Oil life cleared too. Thanks, Danny
Hi Daniel! Thanks for the comment. I haven't had any problems since replacing the sensors. Just make sure you aren't affected by the Passlock problem, are you? That's a much more common problem than the sensors. I'd verify that before replacing the sensors. Are you getting a check engine light. Google "Passlock preventing car from starting" should yield you a lot of info. Good luck!
@@1HookTender Does a "lock" symbol show up on the instrument cluster when it won't start? Passlock issues are very common in our trucks and prevent starting (it's an anti-theft system that makes you wait 10 minutes when engaged/malfunctioning). That's why I suggest looking into it.
Tengo un problema con mi colorado 5 cil 3.7 Cuando esta fría enciende muy bien pero después de aberla usado se batalla para encenderla aveces tengo k esperar 15 minutos para que vuelva a encender me puede ayudar
Sorry for asking you, but you can tell me what funsion those sensors have, because my friend has a scanner and he said it was the camshaft sensor problem,
Hi! I mean, isn't it obvious what they do from the name? A quick google definition: "The Camshaft Position Sensor detects camshaft rotation, and is mounted near the cylinder head so that the sensor is opposite to the timing rotor attached to the engine camshaft. The engine ECU detects the camshaft angle, and performs cylinder recognition based on the signals detected by the camshaft position sensor."
Help me please. I've been searching for a VVT actuator for my 2005 Chevy Colorado. The problem is that the part has been discontinued by GM and I can't find it anywhere else. Would you happen to know where to find the part. I I just installed a replacement engine and it is running with a misfire. I've replaced every thing else that can cause the misfire. The only thing left is the VVT actuator. It's been 10 months now and I am going out of my mind.
Hi Randolph! I bought the one shown in this video on Amazon. Amazon does show it in stock, here: GM Genuine Parts 12615873 Variable Valve Timing (VVT) Solenoid: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01K8DRWHM/ Obviously mine is a 2007 and you mention yours is a 2005 with a replacement engine, so that may make sourcing the correct replacement part challenging. Did the engine come out of a different year vehicle? You may need one for that vehicle or you may need one for a 2005, but basically I'd just be guessing at this point. There's a whole lot of variables, when using a replacement engine. If you can't find one on Amazon, I would also suggest contacting RockAuto.com. They've been very helpful with locating parts for all my vehicles over the years. Good luck, let us know what you find out! Editing to add link to correct video: ua-cam.com/video/U143gNZlWbU/v-deo.html
@@randolphvanbeek3374hi! The full name of the part is sometimes referred to as "VVT Engine Variable Valve Timing Solenoid Actuator". Check out the Amazon link and the other video. It's a bit of a confusing name. I'm not sure if we're talking about the same part? In any case, good luck finding the correct part for your vehicle. 😊
Hi Mike, I have replaced sensors, all good for now. I have oil lamp coming on now, no ck eng light. Ran my scanner on it, Nothing. It did it a couple of times last couple of weeks. Now it has come on again even after an oil change . I rev the engine a little bit and lamp goes out till idle comes back. Any Idea's? Thanks, Danny
Hi Daniel, sounds like you are describing low oil pressure. Pressure goes up when you rev the engine, but drops back down at idle. Is your scan tool able to show you real-time metrics on what the pressure is? I'd be really worried about that, if it were me. May just be a bad sensor or a blockage but could also indicate a failing oil pump. This could result in catastrophic damage to the engine, if this is the case. I'd check first if your scanner can give you exact numbers (instead of just a light). Flush and fill oil with correct weight of high quality oil (I typically use Mobile 1 synthetic extended life oil) and a high quality synthetic oil filter. If light is still coming on check if there is an oil pressure sensor you can replace. You may need to take it into a shop where they can more accurately measure what your pressure is, if your tool can't do it. Good luck!
@@CompTechMike thanks for your reply. I will look for real time metrics. I did change the oil sensor switch. If oil lamp comes on again I will take it to my mechanic. Will keep in touch. Thanks
Just now watched and subscribed. Thank you for doing this. I have a 2012 Colorado and it idles rough. Did changing these two sensors make your truck idle any better? Thanks in advance.
Hi! Thanks for the comment and the sub. Are you getting any kind of check engine codes? How many miles? Maybe you just need a good tune up and oil change? Check out the product called "Seafoam" - I've used it before and like it, although some people will call it snake oil, LOL. 🤔🤣
@@CompTechMike thanks for getting back to me. I bought this truck a couple years back. It had 70xxx miles. It now has 95xxx. I'm changing oil every 5k. Right after i bought it the check engine lite came on. Engine kept stalling out every time you let off the gas pedal. Turns out the garage told me to change the oil. The mechanic said the cam sensors had screens that would plug off do to dirty oil. The previous owner must not have done any maintenance, so i changed oil about 3 times the first month i owned it. Ch.Eng.Lite went off and doesn't give me any problems. I also clean the Throttle Body every oil change. This makes it better until after about 2500 miles, then starts idling ruff at red lights and stop signs. Truck runs well, gets good gas mileage, just shakes and idles terrible. Give it gas and it smooths right out. Also at low idle the tach barely reads 500 rpm. Thanks for any help you can give me. My granddaughter has already took ownership. She's 12 and in 3 years she'll be wanting to drive. LoL
@@deanbarr5740 Hi Dean! Good to hear from you. 95k miles isn't much for our trucks. Mine is well over 200k and still going. Feeling a bit less "peppy" than when new, but I get it. She's pretty old. Hope she makes it a couple more years, I'm enjoying not having a car payment right now. 🤣 Sounds like you're doing everything right. I would recommend a good quality synthetic oil like Mobil 1 Extended Performance, but am sure you're already using something good. Also as soon as you get a chance I would check the Exhaust Camshaft Actuator Solenoid, sometimes called the VVT Solenoid. This is the one that has the screens that can tear and fall off, lodging in oil passages and causing symptoms like you described. I don't have a video link off-hand but there's a pretty good how-to over on the 355nation site. Check it out here: www.355nation.net/threads/how-to-replace-exhaust-camshaft-actuator-solenoid.17342/ Good luck!
Hi mike, My car went in to limp mode the other day, and when i try to floor it it miss fire and then went into limp mode, or the car dies out of no where... i did scan the car, it came out P0017 ( i try to google this code and it said it can be the cam sensor. or the solenoid) and oxigen sensor on bank one... Thanks for the video, i herd you said p0017 is from the solenoid so, im going to try that one first. and change the oxigen sensor on it to. its a 2004 with 194,000 mile on it. i love my truck and i dont want to get ride of it.... i hope is this...
Hi! For a P0017 I'd start by changing the oil. If that doesn't help, change the sensors (including the VVT solenoid with the screens that fall out). If the code still comes back, inspect the timing chain. It may be time for a new one. Are you getting any kind of rattling noise on cold starts? Good luck!
Hi! Thanks for the comment. It's been a few years since i recorded this video but looks like I used Duralast and Dorman parts from my local auto parts store. You can see them starting at the 1:22 minute mark. If I'd had more time I probably would have bought ACDelco from Rockauto. I did have the battery disconnected while replacing the parts, so that should've triggered a relearn. I did let it idle a bit before driving while I checked for codes, beyond that there was no appreciable delay or "relearn time". Thanks!
Hi! For anyone watching this video, I would recommend also check out my more recent video that has some additional tips, including replacing the VVT solenoid (a common sensor failure on our trucks). Link: ua-cam.com/video/U143gNZlWbU/v-deo.html
I changed those and now truck struggles to start. Cleaned mass Air flow sensor and new air filter. Still shakes and struggle to start! Always gotta try 3 times.
Hello! Obvious question but did you use the correct sensors and install them in the correct locations? What issues were you having prior to replacing them? Are you getting any check engine lights?
The subject of 1 or 2 cam sensors seems to come up fairly often in questions on this video and in forum threads on 355nation & coloradofans.com websites. I've skimmed them several times and so far this one seems to be the best write-up about modifying an engine's cam sensors to work in earlier model year vehicles. Pasting a link here: www.355nation.net/threads/how-to-modify-a-2008-2012-2-9l-or-3-7l-engine-to-swap-into-a-2004-2006-truck.193761/ There are many other forum threads on this topic, as well as posts on Facebook groups such as "Chevy Colorado & Canyon (First Gen) Fan And Owner Page". There is also a dedicated Facebook group for doing LS swaps, if you're interested in going that route (as opposed to modifying or rebuilding an existing 355 engine). Hope this information helps!
Hi! Great question! I've definitely seen this question before, and I've definitely seen it answered, but I can't for the life of me remember what the answer is. Do you have Facebook? I recommend posting your question in this group: facebook.com/groups/1191961547485485/ I'm looking now and if I can find the answer I'll let you know. Thanks, good luck!
I noticed somewhere else, maybe the forums, said that if you change the camshaft position sensors that you will need a relearn tool (expensive scanner i believe) to complete this fix. Did you have this issue? I have the p0017 code, rough idle, and cylinder 1 misfire. I just had a valvoline oil change and put in the new vvt sensor with no improvement.. any suggestions?
Hi Dago! Thanks for checking out my video. In my experience, replacing the camshaft position sensors (you may have one or two, depending on the year of your vehicle) does not require a relearn. However replacing the crankshaft position sensor does. That may be what you're thinking of? In any case, P0017 is a tricky error. Sometimes it's as simple as the VVT solenoid. Sometimes it requires a complete replacement timing chain (challenging on these motors). Since you don't have any thing to lose at this point I'd try doing the camshaft sensors. They're cheap and relatively inexpensive/easy. I'd also try swapping the coils and plugs on that cylinder 1 misfire - see if changing the coil to another cylinder changes the code. When you replaced the VVT solenoid did you notice if any of the screens were missing? It's a common issue, there may still be some lodged within the engine, if so. So I'd start with that. Replace the camshaft sensors and move the coil & plug from cylinder 1 to another cylinder. Clear codes and see if they change. Also inspect the old VVT solenoid for missing screens and do another oil flush. Clean the MAP, MAF, and throttle body (common to cause poor running conditions). Inspect the PCV system for blowback / oil in hose, or cracked damaged hoses. Hope it's not your timing chain. Let us know if you figure it out. Good luck! This other video has additional information: ua-cam.com/video/U143gNZlWbU/v-deo.html
@Mike Smith man what an awesome reply. So while I was under the hood today replacing the vvt solenoid, I did try swapping coils with cylinder 2. Cleared the codes and problem is still there. Other than the idle, the truck runs great. But the longer I sit at a stop light or anything like that, it starts to shake harder and harder. Sometimes if it's a long light, the truck continues to miss during takeoff. I've discovered that I can clear this issue temporarily by doing a quick wide open throttle pump of the pedal. Otherwise it only ever has trouble at idle, both in park and under load in gear. My old solenoid has 4 grooves in it, and the 3 on the end furthest from the plug have screens. Was the 4th groove supposed to have one as well? I'm gonna order the sensors as soon as I can find them on rockauto.
@@daddy_dago Hi! I believe there are only three screens, but don't quote me on that - especially if it's an aftermarket or non OEM part. You can see pictures of mine around 25 minutes into this other video: ua-cam.com/video/U143gNZlWbU/v-deo.html Sitting at the stoplight shaking, and then clearing the issue by doing a wide open throttle pump -- have you tried cleaning the throttle body already? And those sensors? Dirty throttle body on these trucks can cause a lot of problems. When it's idling and having trouble - are the RPM's dropping? When you swapped the coil & plug from Cylinder 1 to Cylinder 2 -- you're still getting the code for cylinder 1? Have you done a compression test?
@Mike Smith I haven't tried cleaning anything yet, just the fresh oil and vvt solenoid. Yes the rpms start dropping at a stop, making it shake more and more. Yes I'm still getting a misfire on 1, and no I haven't done a compression test
Haven’t checked the codes on my truck yet, but she will not accelerate at all. Left me kinda stranded but I got back....by towing. Pretty much bogged out and lost power. Then would rev up a little bit then would miss
I went to AutoZone and their diagnostic told me it was PO341 but when I took out the intake sensor the part they gave me was for the outtake. They dont have an intake in any store in my area. Does anyone know if it matters if the part is for a 5 cylinder vs 4 cylinder? All the local stores have a part that looks like the intake for mine, however its for the 5 cylinder and mine is the 4 cylinder.
Hi! If you're looking for somewhere that has the sensor in stock today, we'd just be guessing about what stores are local to you. You might try calling around to places like Advance, O'Reilly's, NAPA, Carquest, Pep Boys, or AutoNation, or other smaller chains. You might also try your local Chevy dealership parts department. If you have a little time I recommend ordering it from RockAuto, instead. I did check their website and it appears the sensor is the same for 5-cylinder and 4-cylinder engines, but that's just putting in my own truck as an example. Obviously you would want to put in your own specifics (year, make, model, etc.) to verify that it's the same sensor for your vehicle. www.rockauto.com
@@CompTechMike Thanks for the help. I have a 2006 2wd 4 cylinder Colorado and no where in NM had an "intake sensor" . They only had it in the 5 cylinder. But after buying the 5 cylinder sensor, I saw that they were same just different angle for the connection. Installed it into my car and its running back to normal.
Hi there! P0017 is one of the most challenging codes on these trucks. In my experience, it can be anything from a bad VVT solenoid, oil pressure issue, to a worn or stretched timing chain. Are you hearing any rattle or "slop" in the chain when you first start the motor? Are you getting any other codes, or just the P0017? If it were me, I'd start with changing the oil & filter with a good quality synthetic. And remove the VVT solenoid and inspect the screens. These are cheap enough that you should probably just replace the sensor, if it's never been done before. Hopefully that will fix the issue, but if not, here's some other possible culprits for P0017: Causes may include: •Timing chain stretched, or timing belt skipped a tooth due to wear •Misalignment of timing belt/chain •Tone ring on crankshaft slipped/broken •Tone ring on camshaft slipped/broken •Bad crank sensor •Bad cam sensor •Damaged wiring to crank/cam sensor •Timing belt/chain tensioner damaged •An improperly torqued crankshaft balancer •A mis-built or mis-timed engine •A loose or missing crankshaft balancer bolt •The CMP actuator solenoid stuck open •The CMP actuator stuck in a position other than 0 degrees Good luck, hope this list helps you with your troubleshooting!
@@aldogarcia393 Hi Aldo, that's probably going to make it even harder to troubleshoot. Is the engine the correct / exact replacement for the vehicle? Or have you done something like swap a 3.7 for 3.5, or a 5.3 swap? You may need to match the sensor for the donor vehicle. I have a vague recollection from a forum thread years ago that the number of "teeth" that are on the gear the VVT solenoid connects to may be different? That's paraphrasing a bit as I don't exactly remember (it's not exactly teeth, although I believe the other sensors do use something with magnets). If the sensor's not reading right, that could set that code. I'd probably ask on sites like ColoradoFans and 355Nation if anyone knows anything about this stuff, and by going to the company who rebuilt the engine and see if they have any suggestions. Let us know if you figure it out. Good luck!
The first time I got the code for them it had stalled out and wouldn't start. Eventually I was able to get it to start so I could get home. I replaced them fast after that; don't want to get stranded! 😉
LOL! Each code means something different. I would check this link and also the sensor that has the screens that fall off. It's a pretty common problem in our truck (you can see mentioned in some of the other comments). www.700r4transmissionhq.com/p0014-chevy-colorado/ Good luck!
Hi! You didn't say what year or engine you have, but check this forum - some good tips here: www.coloradofans.com/threads/as-i-resolve-code-p0300.148098/ Also check your VVT solenoid. May not be directly related but a common point of failure in our trucks: www.355nation.net/threads/how-to-replace-exhaust-camshaft-actuator-solenoid.17342/ Good luck!
Hi! Thanks for the comment. Different sites have different names for it. For example Amazon calls it "Exhaust Camshaft Position Actuator Solenoid - Variable Valve Timing Solenoid". The How-To on 355nation website calls it a "Exhaust Camshaft Actuator Solenoid". You're right though - it is a frequent cause of failures and CEL's on our trucks. Eventually I should do a do a video just on this part. 😀
Check your VVT solenoid, also called the Exhaust Camshaft Actuator Solenoid. There's how-to's in several of the forums. This is a common point of failure in our trucks. Good luck!
Mike Smith I wonder why they failed so often and they couldn’t figure out a way to make them stronger or anything over the years even on the 3.7s they were bad like the 3.5s it was very odd why they couldn’t figure it out
Mike Smith yes I did they look good I bought a new one too and put it on but the truck did have a hard time to start up I keep cranking it for 10mins tell it fired up then I turn it off and try to turn it on and didn’t want to start so I put the old one back n turn back on like nothing
@mike smith I don’t remember what codes it was showing so far so good tho I changed the oil and oil filter and the same time and everything is running awesome and no more check engine light randomly shutting off or anything out of the ordinary
signals34 I had to replace my VVT on my 2012 Canyon 5 Cylinder 4 times in less than 100,000 miles that’s insane that they couldn’t figure it out and redesign the sensor or anything
Bad sensor. Went out righy after warranty. Stealership said they dont know which one so theyd replace them all. Lol Its a 08 model. Its been a good truck.
Bruce Perkins My 2012 Canyon 3.7 did that one time and the tire light stayed until until I shut it off and restarted it then it disappeared that was very weird it also says service stab system every so often and goes away after driving a few miles
Mike Smith I saw them mine has the intake side sensor I do believe now but it’s never been changed at 180,000 miles maybe that’s why it runs rough at time and says too lean every so often I’ll check and change it
@@franckypena6451 Hi! It's just a standard automotive OBD2 code scanner. You can get them anywhere. Most auto parts stores, Amazon, etc. There's all different type of models, some start at around $30-$40, up to hundreds of dollars for a more capable model. Search on Amazon.com for "Actron". That is a good basic model.
It would have been easier on that first sensor to take the 10mm bolt out and pop the entire sensor out then disconnect it. Would have taken you 20 seconds.
If you liked this video or found it helpful, please "like" and "subscribe" to my channel. It really helps me out a lot. I have dozens of videos on troubleshooting and repairs of 1st generation Chevy Colorado and regularly add more. Check out the entire playlist here:
ua-cam.com/play/PLZsiP8a81zDFWVAWL_RxIkDSn2TSAcU8y.html
My current truck has 237,000 miles and is still running great. Hope to keep it that way a lot longer. Thanks!
After decades of doing car repairs in parking lots, I am so glad my wife and I bought a house with garage in May 2020. Hopefully my more recent and future videos will be much better than this one. ☺️
Congrats, and I enjoy your videos. I have a 2006 Canyon with the 4 cyl. I get a bad coil on cylinder 1 about once every 2 years, probably due to an oil leak at spark plug tube on that cylinder. I’ll eventually attempt to replace the valve cover gasket and spark plug tube gaskets, but it’s a bit tricky and I’m a little scared of peripheral damage. I live in a rural area and it’s hard to find a reasonably priced mechanic.
@@stevetackett581 good luck! I would recommend watching a few videos, and also checking on websites like 355nation, coloradofans, and also this Facebook group for tips:
facebook.com/groups/1191961547485485
It might help to have a few spare parts handy before starting, like the rubber hose that goes between the intake resonator and valve cover, plugs, and a few spare coils, just in case anything goes bad or gets damaged during the swap. Good luck, let us know how it goes!
Can't tell you enough how much this vid is appreciated! Will be fixing this problem on my truck as soon as the parts arrive!
Awesome! Glad to help. 👍👍
Good tip about the grounds! This is a good video - Get a tripod for your phone and that would make it an excellent video. I have an '04 Colorado - just had my cam sensors done by a pro mechanic = $360.00. I need a scan tool.!
Thank you! Glad to help. I do have a tripod now and have been trying to make my newer videos more "professional". We bought a house in 2020 so have a garage now, as well. After so many years of doing car repairs in a parking lot, it's a big upgrade. 😆
My 07 just rolled over 240,000 miles recently. Still running great; am glad to help others keep their trucks on the road, also. 😊
great vid loved how you zoomed in on stuff and pointed exactly to the parts and we're very descriptive I have an 04 GMC canyon that had a similar code. working through all the problems right now bought it for my father-in-law who ran the heck out of it to hell and back a lot of crap was broken. funny thing it was slow to start putting my volt meter on it and it was 10.5 volts I couldn't believe it actually started at that I had to go test my bolt meter on a different battery to get a good constant but yet it was 10.5 volts and it started I guess one of the cells is out going to go by new battery tomorrow
You're welcome! Glad the video was helpful. Take your time, work code-by-code, am sure you'll get it running right again. Lots of good videos on UA-cam and in the forums (355nation & coloradofans), and also the Facebook groups. Good luck!
Nice, clear, helpful. Thank you!
You're welcome! ☺
Very common in the GMC Canyon as well. Replace and goes out every few months. Camshaft and crank sensors. Another problem is the anti theft system will shut down and then 10 mins later starts perfect again.
At least the sensors are easy to replace. Might want to try with a higher quality or different brand if they are failing frequently, maybe a genuine ACDelco part would last longer? 😀
Re: the anti-theft system, there is a wire-cutting trick to disable that. Lot of info about it in ColoradoFans and 355Nation websites. Personally I sent my PCM out for tuning (PCM of NC) and just had them disable it. Was easier for me that way. Good luck!
@@CompTechMike Thanks for the reply. I will try AC Delco next time. Outside the sensors it has been a good little pickup truck.
I thought the anti theft issue was only with my truck. Nice to know it's not just me.
@@Gonzy1122 Yeah, it's a super-common problem. GM should've had a recall on this. Also for the blower fan resistor wiring. 😢
If anyone comes across this thread in the future, here is a short (2 minute) picture video describing the issue with Passlock in the 1st generation Chevy Colorado & GMC Canyon. I've included a few pictures and links to information in the description. Hope it helps!
ua-cam.com/video/6fCL6sDm49s/v-deo.html
Thanks for making this video very HELPFUL
You're welcome! Glad I could help. 😀
Thanks!!! Helped me and my 04 Colorado!
Awesome! Glad to help. 😊
Hey so I got a 2006 Chevy Colorado 4 cyl and it’s giving me a p0365 camshaft sensor b bank 1 code any recommendations on what sensor this video is helpful thanks
Hi Roque! Thanks for checking out my Colorado repair video. How many miles are on your truck? Are you getting any other codes or performance issues? To the best of your knowledge, are they the original sensors? Or have they been replaced previously?
Looking up your vehicle on RockAuto.com, it looks like it only has one camshaft position sensor. This varies depending on year and engine configuration. My vehicle shown in the video, for example, has two sensors (intake & exhaust side). GM GENUINE 2131557 should be the right part number for your vehicle. You always want to double-check that based on how your particular vehicle is configured.
While replacing the sensor make sure to inspect the wiring harness for any damage.
I would also recommend inspecting the VVT solenoid and cleaning/inspecting other sensors, wiring, and hoses. Engine sensors are a common point of failure in these trucks and I've got several videos on them. Here's a link to a couple to get you started:
How to replace air filter, VVT solenoid, and other maintenance on a Chevy Colorado: ua-cam.com/video/U143gNZlWbU/v-deo.html
How to replace MAF and MAP sensors in a Chevy Colorado: ua-cam.com/video/NgJvLiWsdsk/v-deo.html
Hope this helps!
Mike, I have the same truck. I noticed that I don’t have a wire hooked to my camshaft sensor trying to find a wire diagram just in case I have to get a new wire and wire it in. I don’t know where it goes. any help on this
Hi! Thanks for the comment. What year is your truck and is it the original engine? In later years (2008+ I believe) they switched to a system that only uses one sensor. If your engine was replaced with one from an earlier vehicle you may only have one wire, and nothing going to the second sensor. What check engine codes are you getting?
Hi Mike I just changed the vvt soloniod but month later got that p0014 code?? It’s new though
Hi! Thanks for the comment. P0014 is the OBD-II generic code that the engine control module (ECM) has determined that the bank 1 exhaust camshaft is more advanced than what the ECM has commanded it be.
I see your comment that you replaced the VVT solenoid but the code came back. One possibility is that the replacement part is defective. Have you also replaced the camshaft position sensors? In my 07 there are two. In your '08 there may only be one. Here's a video that has some information about those:
ua-cam.com/video/oPyZqx0q2TQ/v-deo.html
And a video with some more information about the VVT solenoid:
ua-cam.com/video/U143gNZlWbU/v-deo.html
Have you changed the oil with a good quality replacement since changing the sensor? How many miles on the truck? Are you getting any slapping or rattling noises on cold start, that could indicate a worn timing chain? Any indication of low oil pressure in the vehicle? Any indication of damage to the wiring going to the sensors?
I'd start with any other of the aforementioned sensors, oil flush, and inspection of wiring. Also listen for any noises of a failing timing chain. Worst case scenario that's what it is. Challenging to replace, here's a mildly amusing video on one of those:
ua-cam.com/video/-dI2pSmMy8Q/v-deo.html
Good luck, let us know what you find out!
The vvt soloniod was brand new from dealer. Oil is good. I just changed the camshaft position sensor right now so hopefully that was it.
Were the exhaust and the intake the same part? I bought both but they look the same and it doesn't specify on the package
Hi! Thanks for the comment. No, the parts are not interchangeable. I recommend going back to the website where you ordered them from to cross-reference. Sites like rockauto.com might also be helpful to identify which is which.
@@CompTechMike thank you...I went to the GM website and found what I needed...also thanks for your video👍
Mike- I had the P0014 and P0017 codes on my 2006 Chevy Colorado WT (2.8L). About a week ago I replaced the VVT sensor and cleared the codes on my truck. Just before replacing the sensor, I also changed my oil. Ran great for a few days, but then started running rough at an idle like it had before and the check engine light came back on. This time, just the P0017 code. I am thinking of replacing the camshaft position sensors but all the auto part stores searches only pull one camshaft position sensor, the one on the intake side. I have even tried calling to talk to the parts counter directly and their searches will only pull the intake sensor...I am not having any luck finding the exhaust side sensor. I tried comparing the part number for your exhaust side sensor, but according to the AutoZone website that will not fit my truck. Any suggestions?
Hi! Mine is a 2007 with the I5. Your 2006 4-cylinder engine may be different. I did a quick check on RockAuto.com and didn't see a second one listed for your engine, either. Have you physically checked the engine to see if it has one sensor or two? That's probably where I'd start. It may be the 2.8 only has one.
Also, when is the last time you did a tune-up? If your answer is "I don't know", it may be time to do that. Plugs, filters, also clean the MAF sensor and throttle body and make sure the ground blocks on the fenders are clean/tight.
When you removed your old VVT solenoid were the screens intact? Or were some missing? Hopefully you don't have one of them lodged in an oil passage, or anything like that.
How many miles are on the engine? Worst case scenario (in my opinion) would be you may need a new timing chain.
So that's where I'd start. Visual confirmation on the number and location of the sensor(s). Replace as-needed. Drain the oil and check for any screens (if they were missing when you removed the old VVT sensor). Tune-up (if needed). I saw some anecdotal threads about also changing the O2 sensors, but would hold off on that as I don't think it's related. Good luck, let me know what you find out!
@@CompTechMike No, I have not physically looked. I didn't drive my truck to work today. I just assumed they all had 2. Will take a look when I get home tonight. Thanks for all the helpful videos!
@@CompTechMike Sorry, I didn't read your full post initially. I did my last tune up when I last changed my oil which was about a month ago. My truck has just shy of 130,000 miles on it. When I removed the old VVT senor, it did not appear to be missing any of the old screens...they were all intact.
I bought the truck in December of 2020 and did an oil change on it shortly after purchasing and just went through everything. I noticed the oil dip stick was a bit milky whenever I would check the oil, even after the first time I changed the oil. However, after my most recent oil change and VVT sensor replacement, it seems to have improved. Not sure if that's just luck or somehow related. Anyway, I have found a reasonably priced camshaft position sensor online, thought it was worth a shot to try and get that P0017 code off. Will let you know what I find out!
Through the process of elimination, I determined the source of the P0017 code to be my timing chain. I am tackling the repair myself and boy, it’s a fun one! I am confident I’m on the right track however, as the plastic on one of the timing chain guides had actually broke off and the timing chain was wearing on the bare metal of the guide. The tensioner was also very far extended and the timing chain itself was loose. All signs to me I am making the “right” repair….even if it’s not an easy one!
@@sarahtweeten1975 little question? Was your truck stalling mine stalls when cold with jumping idle runs great for about 30 secs then rpm goes down and gotta restart it it doesn't do it all the time and sometimes it's about to stall but rpm's get back to normal (significant drop ~200rpm then gets back to 700) idle I have the P0017 code I replaced the throttle body MAP, MAF Camshaft Position Sensor and Crankshaft Position Sensor I don't hear any rattle could it still be the timing chain/ timing chain guard???? I'm starting to be out of ideas and kinda affraid to get the case open
Se nota un tipo inteligente... tengo la misma pick up y el mismo mug...
Ha! That's too funny. Thanks for watching and commenting! 😊
I'm wondering why, my 2006 5cyl Chevy Colorado, got an Engine light & a knocking sound (like 2 spoons) inside the motor only to realize; after pulling in to the first gas station I got to; It lost a lot of oil & after replacing the oil & getting home, I got a code read about the position sensors? I towed it to my mechanic who had to remove the radiator to access & repair the leak but says the knocking sound is still there! I'd appreciate any ideas or suggestions on what the knocking sound could be & what the best route of repair might be? Thanks, E.
Hi! You mentioned getting a check engine light, correct? I'd start there. Either buy or borrow a code scanner (most auto parts stores will do this for free) or have your mechanic check the codes. What codes are you getting? I'd start by researching those.
You can also remove the serpentine belt and run the engine momentarily. If the noise is gone with the belt removed, it means it's an accessory (such as alternator, water pump, power steering pump, or AC compressor) making the noise. If the noise continues with the belt removed, it means it's something internal in the engine.
You didn't mention how many miles are on the vehicle, but from the sound you are describing and the oil loss you mentioned, it sounds like it may be the timing chain. This is a very challenging repair on our trucks. They call it "the $2,000 timing chain". I'd start by checking all of your codes first, however. Let us know what you find out. Good luck!
Ok, well.., my mechanic repaired a leak behind the radiator ; a broken seal of some sort ; and also said the serpentine belt was oil damaged, but the noise was still there after repair. He suggested I take it to the Dealer bc it appeared the noise was inside the engine block. And being these 5 cylinder trucks were no longer made after 2011, it would be difficult to find a 'usable' engine replacement in quick time! All things said, I took it to the dealer & they were able to find a 'new' (rebuilt) engine w/a 3Yr Warr., to replace the now defunct one of 155,000 miles & it only took a (2) two month wait to get it back!:^, At a total cost of Extended Warr., $4575. & my O.O.P. for labor $5033.= $9608. But I consider myself lucky, that I'm able to continue driving my lovely Champagne beauty for awhile longer & enjoy the many compliments I get from admirers & strangers! This is my little slice of happiness!:^) photos.app.goo.gl/LWqhPan47r5FUKcE8
@@etovar5030 Phew! A lot of money, but still less than the cost of a new truck. Glad you're happy, and hope your truck gives you many more good years!
I have same problem with my 07 Colorado 5 clyn 4 wheel Dr, only i have to wait 15 min before I try to start it. If I don't I have to wait another 15 min. I hope by changing these sensors will fix the issue. Have you had the same problem again sense you did the replacement? Oil life cleared too. Thanks, Danny
Hi Daniel! Thanks for the comment. I haven't had any problems since replacing the sensors. Just make sure you aren't affected by the Passlock problem, are you? That's a much more common problem than the sensors. I'd verify that before replacing the sensors. Are you getting a check engine light. Google "Passlock preventing car from starting" should yield you a lot of info. Good luck!
@@CompTechMike thanks Mike. I will be replacing exhaust and intake late today. Not sure there is a passlock problem. Is there a way to tell.
@@1HookTender Does a "lock" symbol show up on the instrument cluster when it won't start? Passlock issues are very common in our trucks and prevent starting (it's an anti-theft system that makes you wait 10 minutes when engaged/malfunctioning). That's why I suggest looking into it.
@@CompTechMike I will look for it next time. I do not believe I saw it. Thanks
Tengo un problema con mi colorado 5 cil 3.7
Cuando esta fría enciende muy bien pero después de aberla usado se batalla para encenderla aveces tengo k esperar 15 minutos para que vuelva a encender me puede ayudar
Sorry for asking you, but you can tell me what funsion those sensors have, because my friend has a scanner and he said it was the camshaft sensor problem,
Hi! I mean, isn't it obvious what they do from the name? A quick google definition: "The Camshaft Position Sensor detects camshaft rotation, and is mounted near the cylinder head so that the sensor is opposite to the timing rotor attached to the engine camshaft. The engine ECU detects the camshaft angle, and performs cylinder recognition based on the signals detected by the camshaft position sensor."
@@CompTechMike thanks you very much I got it
Thanks Mike big help!
You're welcome! Glad the video was helpful. 🙂
Okay cool….. I have the same issue with my Colorado…… thank you,thank you
You're welcome! Glad to help! 😊
Help me please. I've been searching for a VVT actuator for my 2005 Chevy Colorado. The problem is that the part has been discontinued by GM and I can't find it anywhere else. Would you happen to know where to find the part. I I just installed a replacement engine and it is running with a misfire. I've replaced every thing else that can cause the misfire. The only thing left is the VVT actuator. It's been 10 months now and I am going out of my mind.
Hi Randolph! I bought the one shown in this video on Amazon. Amazon does show it in stock, here:
GM Genuine Parts 12615873 Variable Valve Timing (VVT) Solenoid: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01K8DRWHM/
Obviously mine is a 2007 and you mention yours is a 2005 with a replacement engine, so that may make sourcing the correct replacement part challenging. Did the engine come out of a different year vehicle? You may need one for that vehicle or you may need one for a 2005, but basically I'd just be guessing at this point. There's a whole lot of variables, when using a replacement engine.
If you can't find one on Amazon, I would also suggest contacting RockAuto.com. They've been very helpful with locating parts for all my vehicles over the years. Good luck, let us know what you find out!
Editing to add link to correct video: ua-cam.com/video/U143gNZlWbU/v-deo.html
Editing to add link to correct video:
ua-cam.com/video/U143gNZlWbU/v-deo.html
Thanks Mike but it's not the solenoid I need is the actual piece that goes on the timing gear the VVT actuator
@@randolphvanbeek3374hi! The full name of the part is sometimes referred to as "VVT Engine Variable Valve Timing Solenoid Actuator". Check out the Amazon link and the other video. It's a bit of a confusing name. I'm not sure if we're talking about the same part?
In any case, good luck finding the correct part for your vehicle. 😊
Thanks for your help Mike
Hi Mike, I have replaced sensors, all good for now. I have oil lamp coming on now, no ck eng light. Ran my scanner on it, Nothing. It did it a couple of times last couple of weeks. Now it has come on again even after an oil change . I rev the engine a little bit and lamp goes out till idle comes back. Any Idea's? Thanks, Danny
Hi Daniel, sounds like you are describing low oil pressure. Pressure goes up when you rev the engine, but drops back down at idle. Is your scan tool able to show you real-time metrics on what the pressure is? I'd be really worried about that, if it were me. May just be a bad sensor or a blockage but could also indicate a failing oil pump. This could result in catastrophic damage to the engine, if this is the case.
I'd check first if your scanner can give you exact numbers (instead of just a light). Flush and fill oil with correct weight of high quality oil (I typically use Mobile 1 synthetic extended life oil) and a high quality synthetic oil filter. If light is still coming on check if there is an oil pressure sensor you can replace. You may need to take it into a shop where they can more accurately measure what your pressure is, if your tool can't do it. Good luck!
Also, search Google for "chevy colorado low oil pressure light". Look for the thread on coloradodfans website. Some more tips there. Good luck!
@@CompTechMike thanks for your reply. I will look for real time metrics. I did change the oil sensor switch. If oil lamp comes on again I will take it to my mechanic. Will keep in touch. Thanks
Just now watched and subscribed. Thank you for doing this. I have a 2012 Colorado and it idles rough. Did changing these two sensors make your truck idle any better? Thanks in advance.
Hi! Thanks for the comment and the sub. Are you getting any kind of check engine codes? How many miles? Maybe you just need a good tune up and oil change? Check out the product called "Seafoam" - I've used it before and like it, although some people will call it snake oil, LOL. 🤔🤣
@@CompTechMike thanks for getting back to me. I bought this truck a couple years back. It had 70xxx miles. It now has 95xxx. I'm changing oil every 5k. Right after i bought it the check engine lite came on. Engine kept stalling out every time you let off the gas pedal. Turns out the garage told me to change the oil. The mechanic said the cam sensors had screens that would plug off do to dirty oil. The previous owner must not have done any maintenance, so i changed oil about 3 times the first month i owned it. Ch.Eng.Lite went off and doesn't give me any problems. I also clean the Throttle Body every oil change. This makes it better until after about 2500 miles, then starts idling ruff at red lights and stop signs. Truck runs well, gets good gas mileage, just shakes and idles terrible. Give it gas and it smooths right out. Also at low idle the tach barely reads 500 rpm. Thanks for any help you can give me. My granddaughter has already took ownership. She's 12 and in 3 years she'll be wanting to drive. LoL
@@deanbarr5740 Hi Dean! Good to hear from you. 95k miles isn't much for our trucks. Mine is well over 200k and still going. Feeling a bit less "peppy" than when new, but I get it. She's pretty old. Hope she makes it a couple more years, I'm enjoying not having a car payment right now. 🤣 Sounds like you're doing everything right. I would recommend a good quality synthetic oil like Mobil 1 Extended Performance, but am sure you're already using something good. Also as soon as you get a chance I would check the Exhaust Camshaft Actuator Solenoid, sometimes called the VVT Solenoid. This is the one that has the screens that can tear and fall off, lodging in oil passages and causing symptoms like you described. I don't have a video link off-hand but there's a pretty good how-to over on the 355nation site. Check it out here:
www.355nation.net/threads/how-to-replace-exhaust-camshaft-actuator-solenoid.17342/
Good luck!
@@CompTechMike thanks Mike, I'll check this out. I appreciate you taking the time to help me. 👊👍👍
Hi mike, My car went in to limp mode the other day, and when i try to floor it it miss fire and then went into limp mode, or the car dies out of no where... i did scan the car, it came out P0017 ( i try to google this code and it said it can be the cam sensor. or the solenoid) and oxigen sensor on bank one... Thanks for the video, i herd you said p0017 is from the solenoid so, im going to try that one first. and change the oxigen sensor on it to. its a 2004 with 194,000 mile on it. i love my truck and i dont want to get ride of it.... i hope is this...
Hi! For a P0017 I'd start by changing the oil. If that doesn't help, change the sensors (including the VVT solenoid with the screens that fall out). If the code still comes back, inspect the timing chain. It may be time for a new one. Are you getting any kind of rattling noise on cold starts? Good luck!
I take it they were not ACdelco? Didn't have to relearn or it did on its own?
Hi! Thanks for the comment. It's been a few years since i recorded this video but looks like I used Duralast and Dorman parts from my local auto parts store. You can see them starting at the 1:22 minute mark. If I'd had more time I probably would have bought ACDelco from Rockauto. I did have the battery disconnected while replacing the parts, so that should've triggered a relearn. I did let it idle a bit before driving while I checked for codes, beyond that there was no appreciable delay or "relearn time". Thanks!
Hi! For anyone watching this video, I would recommend also check out my more recent video that has some additional tips, including replacing the VVT solenoid (a common sensor failure on our trucks). Link: ua-cam.com/video/U143gNZlWbU/v-deo.html
I changed those and now truck struggles to start. Cleaned mass Air flow sensor and new air filter. Still shakes and struggle to start! Always gotta try 3 times.
Hello! Obvious question but did you use the correct sensors and install them in the correct locations? What issues were you having prior to replacing them? Are you getting any check engine lights?
The subject of 1 or 2 cam sensors seems to come up fairly often in questions on this video and in forum threads on 355nation & coloradofans.com websites. I've skimmed them several times and so far this one seems to be the best write-up about modifying an engine's cam sensors to work in earlier model year vehicles. Pasting a link here:
www.355nation.net/threads/how-to-modify-a-2008-2012-2-9l-or-3-7l-engine-to-swap-into-a-2004-2006-truck.193761/
There are many other forum threads on this topic, as well as posts on Facebook groups such as "Chevy Colorado & Canyon (First Gen) Fan And Owner Page". There is also a dedicated Facebook group for doing LS swaps, if you're interested in going that route (as opposed to modifying or rebuilding an existing 355 engine). Hope this information helps!
The sensor that you did not replace is the VVT solenoid/sensor. Variable Valve Timing Solenoid.
Hi! Correct. I did that one in a later video. 😁
Thank. You
You're welcome! Glad to help. 😀👍👍
I am looking for some help I put and engine with the 2 sensors on a 2008 with one 1 sensor how can I put a sensor that will solve my issue
Hi! Great question! I've definitely seen this question before, and I've definitely seen it answered, but I can't for the life of me remember what the answer is. Do you have Facebook? I recommend posting your question in this group:
facebook.com/groups/1191961547485485/
I'm looking now and if I can find the answer I'll let you know. Thanks, good luck!
I appreciate your help thanks
👍😄👊
Thanks! 😊
I noticed somewhere else, maybe the forums, said that if you change the camshaft position sensors that you will need a relearn tool (expensive scanner i believe) to complete this fix. Did you have this issue? I have the p0017 code, rough idle, and cylinder 1 misfire. I just had a valvoline oil change and put in the new vvt sensor with no improvement.. any suggestions?
Hi Dago! Thanks for checking out my video. In my experience, replacing the camshaft position sensors (you may have one or two, depending on the year of your vehicle) does not require a relearn. However replacing the crankshaft position sensor does. That may be what you're thinking of?
In any case, P0017 is a tricky error. Sometimes it's as simple as the VVT solenoid. Sometimes it requires a complete replacement timing chain (challenging on these motors). Since you don't have any thing to lose at this point I'd try doing the camshaft sensors. They're cheap and relatively inexpensive/easy. I'd also try swapping the coils and plugs on that cylinder 1 misfire - see if changing the coil to another cylinder changes the code. When you replaced the VVT solenoid did you notice if any of the screens were missing? It's a common issue, there may still be some lodged within the engine, if so.
So I'd start with that. Replace the camshaft sensors and move the coil & plug from cylinder 1 to another cylinder. Clear codes and see if they change. Also inspect the old VVT solenoid for missing screens and do another oil flush. Clean the MAP, MAF, and throttle body (common to cause poor running conditions). Inspect the PCV system for blowback / oil in hose, or cracked damaged hoses. Hope it's not your timing chain. Let us know if you figure it out. Good luck!
This other video has additional information:
ua-cam.com/video/U143gNZlWbU/v-deo.html
@Mike Smith man what an awesome reply. So while I was under the hood today replacing the vvt solenoid, I did try swapping coils with cylinder 2. Cleared the codes and problem is still there. Other than the idle, the truck runs great. But the longer I sit at a stop light or anything like that, it starts to shake harder and harder. Sometimes if it's a long light, the truck continues to miss during takeoff. I've discovered that I can clear this issue temporarily by doing a quick wide open throttle pump of the pedal. Otherwise it only ever has trouble at idle, both in park and under load in gear. My old solenoid has 4 grooves in it, and the 3 on the end furthest from the plug have screens. Was the 4th groove supposed to have one as well? I'm gonna order the sensors as soon as I can find them on rockauto.
@@daddy_dago Hi! I believe there are only three screens, but don't quote me on that - especially if it's an aftermarket or non OEM part. You can see pictures of mine around 25 minutes into this other video:
ua-cam.com/video/U143gNZlWbU/v-deo.html
Sitting at the stoplight shaking, and then clearing the issue by doing a wide open throttle pump -- have you tried cleaning the throttle body already? And those sensors? Dirty throttle body on these trucks can cause a lot of problems. When it's idling and having trouble - are the RPM's dropping?
When you swapped the coil & plug from Cylinder 1 to Cylinder 2 -- you're still getting the code for cylinder 1? Have you done a compression test?
@Mike Smith I haven't tried cleaning anything yet, just the fresh oil and vvt solenoid. Yes the rpms start dropping at a stop, making it shake more and more. Yes I'm still getting a misfire on 1, and no I haven't done a compression test
What was up with the light flickering on dash? My 12 Canyon has never done that.
It wasn't really flickering, that was just the camera not being able to record it properly.
Thanks for the video...
You're welcome! 😀
Thank you so much
You're welcome! :-D
Thanks glad I found your channel have you done a spark plug change video I am on need the mechanic wants over 400.00 to that
Hi! Thanks for the comment. Yes, I do have a video on changing sparkplugs. You can find it on UA-cam, here:
ua-cam.com/video/PXSjXM6X_fk/v-deo.html
Haven’t checked the codes on my truck yet, but she will not accelerate at all. Left me kinda stranded but I got back....by towing.
Pretty much bogged out and lost power. Then would rev up a little bit then would miss
Sorry to hear that! Hope you're able to get her fixed.
I went to AutoZone and their diagnostic told me it was PO341 but when I took out the intake sensor the part they gave me was for the outtake. They dont have an intake in any store in my area. Does anyone know if it matters if the part is for a 5 cylinder vs 4 cylinder? All the local stores have a part that looks like the intake for mine, however its for the 5 cylinder and mine is the 4 cylinder.
Hi! If you're looking for somewhere that has the sensor in stock today, we'd just be guessing about what stores are local to you. You might try calling around to places like Advance, O'Reilly's, NAPA, Carquest, Pep Boys, or AutoNation, or other smaller chains. You might also try your local Chevy dealership parts department.
If you have a little time I recommend ordering it from RockAuto, instead. I did check their website and it appears the sensor is the same for 5-cylinder and 4-cylinder engines, but that's just putting in my own truck as an example. Obviously you would want to put in your own specifics (year, make, model, etc.) to verify that it's the same sensor for your vehicle.
www.rockauto.com
@@CompTechMike Thanks for the help. I have a 2006 2wd 4 cylinder Colorado and no where in NM had an "intake sensor" . They only had it in the 5 cylinder. But after buying the 5 cylinder sensor, I saw that they were same just different angle for the connection. Installed it into my car and its running back to normal.
@@arvizo10 great! Glad to hear you got it working. 😊👍👍
I got a p0017 code, is it the same fix?
Hi there! P0017 is one of the most challenging codes on these trucks. In my experience, it can be anything from a bad VVT solenoid, oil pressure issue, to a worn or stretched timing chain. Are you hearing any rattle or "slop" in the chain when you first start the motor? Are you getting any other codes, or just the P0017? If it were me, I'd start with changing the oil & filter with a good quality synthetic. And remove the VVT solenoid and inspect the screens. These are cheap enough that you should probably just replace the sensor, if it's never been done before. Hopefully that will fix the issue, but if not, here's some other possible culprits for P0017:
Causes may include:
•Timing chain stretched, or timing belt skipped a tooth due to wear
•Misalignment of timing belt/chain
•Tone ring on crankshaft slipped/broken
•Tone ring on camshaft slipped/broken
•Bad crank sensor
•Bad cam sensor
•Damaged wiring to crank/cam sensor
•Timing belt/chain tensioner damaged
•An improperly torqued crankshaft balancer
•A mis-built or mis-timed engine
•A loose or missing crankshaft balancer bolt
•The CMP actuator solenoid stuck open
•The CMP actuator stuck in a position other than 0 degrees
Good luck, hope this list helps you with your troubleshooting!
@@CompTechMike it’s a rebuilt engine just installed. Idk if that helps cut the possibilities
@@aldogarcia393 Hi Aldo, that's probably going to make it even harder to troubleshoot. Is the engine the correct / exact replacement for the vehicle? Or have you done something like swap a 3.7 for 3.5, or a 5.3 swap? You may need to match the sensor for the donor vehicle. I have a vague recollection from a forum thread years ago that the number of "teeth" that are on the gear the VVT solenoid connects to may be different? That's paraphrasing a bit as I don't exactly remember (it's not exactly teeth, although I believe the other sensors do use something with magnets). If the sensor's not reading right, that could set that code.
I'd probably ask on sites like ColoradoFans and 355Nation if anyone knows anything about this stuff, and by going to the company who rebuilt the engine and see if they have any suggestions. Let us know if you figure it out. Good luck!
@@CompTechMike it’s the same 2.9 rebuilt . Same everything.
What was truck doing when sensors went bad
The first time I got the code for them it had stalled out and wouldn't start. Eventually I was able to get it to start so I could get home. I replaced them fast after that; don't want to get stranded! 😉
Is this a 6v cylinder engine?
This is an inline 5 cylinder 3.7l engine.
Is that gonna be the same as a p0014?
Maybe if I watched the whole video first you’d say it wasn’t hahaha
LOL! Each code means something different. I would check this link and also the sensor that has the screens that fall off. It's a pretty common problem in our truck (you can see mentioned in some of the other comments). www.700r4transmissionhq.com/p0014-chevy-colorado/ Good luck!
Any tips for a p0300?
Hi! You didn't say what year or engine you have, but check this forum - some good tips here:
www.coloradofans.com/threads/as-i-resolve-code-p0300.148098/
Also check your VVT solenoid. May not be directly related but a common point of failure in our trucks:
www.355nation.net/threads/how-to-replace-exhaust-camshaft-actuator-solenoid.17342/
Good luck!
@@CompTechMike 2006 Chevy Colorado I5 thanks I will check it out.
That is not an exhaust sensor on the side with screens it is the variable valve timing solenoid had to replace it on mines it was spitting out oil
Hi! Thanks for the comment. Different sites have different names for it. For example Amazon calls it "Exhaust Camshaft Position Actuator Solenoid - Variable Valve Timing Solenoid". The How-To on 355nation website calls it a "Exhaust Camshaft Actuator Solenoid". You're right though - it is a frequent cause of failures and CEL's on our trucks. Eventually I should do a do a video just on this part. 😀
What if 2 codes come up...Like p0014 and p0304?
Check your VVT solenoid, also called the Exhaust Camshaft Actuator Solenoid. There's how-to's in several of the forums. This is a common point of failure in our trucks. Good luck!
Mike Smith I wonder why they failed so often and they couldn’t figure out a way to make them stronger or anything over the years even on the 3.7s they were bad like the 3.5s it was very odd why they couldn’t figure it out
Has the check engine light turn back on?
It's only been a couple weeks since I recorded this video but so far no more check engine light. :)
I have p0365 n p0366
I switch them and the light was off for 30mims and it came back on
@@geramane5184 Have you checked your camshaft actuator solenoid? Have the screens fallen out of it?
Mike Smith yes I did they look good I bought a new one too and put it on but the truck did have a hard time to start up I keep cranking it for 10mins tell it fired up then I turn it off and try to turn it on and didn’t want to start so I put the old one back n turn back on like nothing
Tiiiimee is one my side…. Yes it is…!!!
🤣
On a real note I just did this on my truck and it’s been giving me issues for about 6 months randomly shutting off random check engine light
@@MNJLLC Hi! Did changing these sensors help? What codes are you getting with the CEL?
@mike smith
I don’t remember what codes it was showing so far so good tho I changed the oil and oil filter and the same time and everything is running awesome and no more check engine light randomly shutting off or anything out of the ordinary
@@MNJLLC Nice! Glad to hear it. 👍👍
have 110,000 miles on my 2006 H3....had to change these, and the VVT sensor 3 times total....not sure why this is such an issue all the time....
I've heard that VVT sensor is a frequent issue. Have been lucky so far, 200k and haven't had it fail... yet. ;-)
There is 2 I was told by the dealer there is only 1
@@CompTechMike that is good!
@@warrenmull10 there is two...i changed both....top front rightside, and under left side, have to take left side tire off to get to it...
signals34 I had to replace my VVT on my 2012 Canyon 5 Cylinder 4 times in less than 100,000 miles that’s insane that they couldn’t figure it out and redesign the sensor or anything
Bro how the hell did you get the exhaust side off, I can't get that bolt
Is it stuck? Or you just can't reach it? Put a breaker bar on it, it'll budge! 🤣
I couldn't reach it. But I got it to budge a little and I just loosened it with the socket with my fingers.
Ugh
The dreaded serv tpm message. I have lived with that for 100k miles
LOL. Do you have aftermarket rims or just bad sensors? You can probably have it disabled by someone like PCM For Less or PCM of NC. Good luck!
Bad sensor. Went out righy after warranty. Stealership said they dont know which one so theyd replace them all. Lol
Its a 08 model. Its been a good truck.
Bruce Perkins My 2012 Canyon 3.7 did that one time and the tire light stayed until until I shut it off and restarted it then it disappeared that was very weird it also says service stab system every so often and goes away after driving a few miles
My 2012 Canyon with the 3.7 only has one camshaft sensor on the exhaust side
Mine is a 2007. It seems like Chevy changed the number of sensors and locations on just about every model year. :'(
Mike Smith Where is the intake sensor located I’m wondering if I actually do have it and they don’t know it
@@warrenmull10 on the thumbnail for this video you can see I circled them both in yellow. 😀
Mike Smith I saw them mine has the intake side sensor I do believe now but it’s never been changed at 180,000 miles maybe that’s why it runs rough at time and says too lean every so often I’ll check and change it
Mike Smith The exhaust actuator has been changed 4 times from 97,000 miles when I bought it because it keeps failing
Rockauto has the position sensors starting at $13
Rock Auto has parts from many various manufacturers. Some are definitely on the cheap side. Always worth it to pay more for quality, in my opinion.
It’s a 2008 by the way
Where did you get the computer to read the foxes let me know please
I'm sorry, the what? "Computer to read the foxes"?
@@CompTechMike jajaja sorry , am try to say the auto scanner
@@franckypena6451 Hi! It's just a standard automotive OBD2 code scanner. You can get them anywhere. Most auto parts stores, Amazon, etc. There's all different type of models, some start at around $30-$40, up to hundreds of dollars for a more capable model.
Search on Amazon.com for "Actron". That is a good basic model.
@@CompTechMike thank you very much , I think my Chevy Colorado truck has the same problem
They relearned my exhaust actuator on mine
Interesting. Did that help?
I can tell by looking but you may want to tell your viewers which engine you are working on. 2.8L 4 cylinder or 3.5L 5 cylinder. Some also have a V8.
I say within the first 15 seconds of the video that it's the I5. I should have mentioned it's the 3.7l, however. Thanks!
It would have been easier on that first sensor to take the 10mm bolt out and pop the entire sensor out then disconnect it. Would have taken you 20 seconds.