If you liked this video or found it helpful, please "like" and "subscribe" to my channel. It really helps me out a lot. I have dozens of videos on troubleshooting and repairs of 1st generation Chevy Colorado and regularly add more. Check out the entire playlist here: ua-cam.com/play/PLZsiP8a81zDFWVAWL_RxIkDSn2TSAcU8y.html My current truck has 237,000 miles and is still running great. Hope to keep it that way a lot longer. Thanks!
Thanks for the video, Mike! It's a good video, but I'm not sure I will attempt to tackle this myself though. I'm pretty novice when it comes to this kind of project. Thanks again!
They can definitely be done with basic hand tools but can be a bit hard to reach, and can be frustrating especially if you don't have good weather outside or a garage to work in. Worth calling around for a few quotes before deciding whether or not to do it yourself. Good luck, whatever you decide. 😊
This video was very helpful. I just replaced my oxygen sensors in my '07 Colorado. Watching this video prior made the process smooth and flawless. Thanks! Can't wait to see what other stuff you do to your Colorado.
I have a 2008 2.9L i4 and was able to replace *both* O2 sensors from above. I used a regular 3/8 ratchet with an O2 socket and reached deep down from above to access the downstream sensor. There was just enough room to turn the wrench and loosen it up. Accessing the plug was pretty easy from above also. I think it was easier this way than accessing it from below. I didn't need to jack up the truck or remove the wheel. Mike, thanks so much for all your helpful Colorado videos.
Nice! Did you feel like it was easier on the i4 engine because it is smaller? Is there more room to reach your hands down around the engine compared to the 5-cylinder?
@@CompTechMike I'm just a beginner owner-mechanic and haven't worked on the i5 engine so I don't know how much less room there is in the engine bay from personal experience (only your video), but your logic makes sense and it may only be possible to access both sensors from above on the smaller i4 engine. Still, there was not a lot of room and those with large hands or short arms may have a problem even on the i4 engine. Thanks again! Thanks to your videos I have replaced both O2 sensors, PCV hose, MAF sensor, ignition coils, and windshield cowl, cleaned the throttle body, and replaced the front and rear differential fluid and transfer case fluid. The only major maintenance I need to complete now is to fix an oil consumption issue which I believe is related to a plugged up venting assembly inside the valve cover that results in oil being sucked into the intake via the breather hose - are you familiar with this issue? I have read about it on a couple of forums and the fix seems to be to remove the valve cover and clean the "oil drain back tabs". It would be awesome if you made a video on fixing this issue as it seems to be a common problem on 1st gen trucks with over 100K miles!
@@GAMP-b2s Hi! Wow, thank you for the detailed response. I do think the i4 engine would have a little more room around it; similarly I've heard the Z71 suspension has more room compared to the Z85 suspension. This is owing to the Z71 using torsion bars and Z85 using large coil springs on either side. Either way, sure makes me miss my old cars from the 1960's to early 1970's, you could practically lift the hood and climb in there, LOL. 🤣 I have heard of the oil consumption issue caused by oil caking up the passages at the top of the valve cover. I had a similar issue which I believe was caused by the PCV hose going into the intake manifold being cracked and not able to seal or develop enough vacuum to vent properly. I replaced my hose in this video, still working on the hypothesis but replacing it does seem to have helped with my oil consumption. ua-cam.com/video/U143gNZlWbU/v-deo.html Here is a link to the hose I purchased (may be different for an i4 engine): www.amazon.com/ACDelco-15123628-Original-Equipment-Ventilation/dp/B00S0G18Z2/ Maybe try replacing the hose first, and spraying a little cleaner down the intake while you're doing it? I'd suggest something like MAF cleaner that dissolves completely. Just an idea, anyway. Haven't removed the valve cover yet on mine, am a bit scared of the plastic intake on there. Although I suppose eventually I should remove everything and give the throttle body a good cleaning. Or I may replace it with one of those "Supermodulation " ported & polished throttle bodies! Here is another video I recommend. This is the 4.2 engine but check out the oil pickup at the 5:30 minute mark. Horrible! This is why I always recommend using premium brands of oil and change it regularly, LOL. 🤣 ua-cam.com/video/aHmcJjjlf9w/v-deo.html
@@CompTechMike I watched your video where you replace the PCV hose and purchased one along with a bunch of other parts for all the maintenance I just completed. I didn't even know what the condition of my hose was but figured it was easy enough and cheap enough to replace and it wouldn't hurt after 125K. When I inspected the original hose I discovered that it was in good condition with no cracks but I could see that the ends of the hose had signs of age that would likely develop into cracks in the next couple of years. So I think it turned out that it was a good idea to replace the hose. So my oil consumption issue does not appear to be from a cracked PCV valve. I've read others say that spraying anything inside the valve cover won't fix the problem because apparently the internal baffle design would not be cleared up from simply spraying air or cleaner inside. I guess it really needs to be taken off and cleaned well in order to solve the problem. However, I see one video where the mechanic does just clean it out and spray air inside with good results. He also shows a way to troubleshoot the issue by watching for burning oil/smoke from the oil dipstick tube: ua-cam.com/video/IwmEpEjTxaU/v-deo.html That video link you posted about the clogged oil pickup tube is frightening and definitely makes a good case for using top-quality oil. My truck has had Mobil 1 full synthetic and filters used since new so I know I am good there.
Hey great video! I followed step by step for the first O2 sensor in my ‘05 Colorado (Especially the special socket tool). You crushed my spirit when you said there are two of them but I replaced one for now. My check engine light has not turned on after installing the new sensor. Thanks again!
Nice! Pretty sure they still have two sensors on an '05 - an upsteam sensor and a downstream sensor. May be in slightly different locations than on my '07, but if you got one you can do the other. Good luck!
@@CompTechMike The OReilly tech hooked up the computer to my car and it was the upstream sensor that triggered the check engine light. I’ll for sure make it a future project to change the downstream since my truck is near 165k and I doubt these were changed by the original owner... I certainly haven’t!
Hi! Glad the video was helpful. I got the toolbox at my local Lowes hardware store a few years ago. I'm not sure if they still have them in stock but you should be able to check their website to find some near you. You can also try stores like Home Depot and Tractor Supply. They sometimes have different sizes in stock, as well. Just make sure to measure the correct width / bed size for your vehicle. Safe travels!
Hi Oscar! Thanks for checking out my Chevy Colorado repair videos. I don't speak Spanish, but if Google Translate is correct you are asking if these are the same parts for a 2012 2.9l 4-cylinder engine, correct? I don't have a 2012 here to compare to but looked up that model on RockAuto.com. Based on that, I think GM Genuine 2133207 upstream and GM Genuine 2133908 downstream sensors should work for your vehicle. See screenshot below: imgur.com/a/rZpPzZ6 (image hosted on Imgur.com) Hope this helps!
Okay, I have 05 canyon and it goes to reduced power mode traction fault I called gm and they have list of things that could make it do that and the oxygen sensors is what they said is one issue I’ve changed the throttle body that’s not it it’s not MAF sensor and I’ve even taken the traction and abs fuses out until I can get it fixed and it still ain’t working, so any clues on what it could actually be I’ve took it to a mechanic and he said I needed a chip key because the theft thing was on but the locksmith said this year didn’t have a chip key because it was built in the ignition, so I’m getting the run around.
Hi! Thanks for commenting on my video. It sounds like you've got a lot to unpack here, so let's start at the bottom: Your locksmith is correct and your mechanic is not. 1st generation Chevy Colorado & GMC Canyon use a system called Passlock (not PassKey). Passlock is notoriously unreliable and frequently causes starting problems. If you see the lock on your dashboard and the truck cranks (but does not start) that is because Passlock is engaged. It is frequently discussed in the truck forums and Facebook groups. There are three most common ways of resolving Passlock issues. You can either replace the part (but eventually it will fail again), cut a wire under your dash, or have it tuned out. Most tuning shops that work on our type of trucks can do this (it is called "VATS delete"). If you do not have a local tuner you can send your PCM to someone like "PCM of NC" and they can perform the service. That's what I did when mine first started acting up in 2014. No starting problems since! 😁 You can read more about Passlock and PassKey here: ricksfreeautorepairadvice.com/gm-anti-theft-systems-overview/ Now to your main question, reduced power and traction fault, it could be any of a list of things, like GM mentioned. Your best bet would be to find a competent mechanic who's familiar with these vehicles and has proper diagnostic code scanning tools. Otherwise you're just going to be throwing parts at it. So that's what I'd recommend. If you're having trouble starting the truck, get your Passlock issue resolved first. Either replace the part, cut the wire, or have it tuned out. My recommendation is to go with the tune. www.pcmofnc.com/ Next, take it to a mechanic who's able to scan for ABS faults. A basic code scanner cannot do this, you need a specific code scanner for this. If you find out what the code is, come back and let us know. Thanks!
@@CompTechMike it cranks and runs but going down the road it will stall causing it to go into reduced power mode, and okay thanks so much now Ik not to take it back to him.
Hi! Thanks for the comment. There's only one bank on an inline engine. There's an upstream sensor (the one before the cat) and a downstream sensor (the one after the cat). If you're getting a check engine light related to the oxygen sensors, they're cheap enough and it's usually a good idea to just replace both of them. What code are you getting? Any performance issues?
Hi Cadie! Thanks for checking out my UA-cam videos on Colorado repair. The "reduced power mode" indicates that the vehicle's powertrain control module has detected a system failure and it has intentionally limited your vehicle's performance. This is frequently a "limp home" mode designed to get you home (or safely off the road). The vehicle should not be operated for extended periods when in this condition. As for the exact cause, it can be very difficult to diagnose remotely. Could be anything from a faulty sensor to a major mechanical failure with the vehicle. I would recommend first hooking up a code scanner (often free to borrow from local auto parts stores, if you don't already have one) and write down the complete details of every code presented. You can take that information to your mechanic or post on forums such as coloradofans.com, 355nation.net, and the "Chevy Colorado & Canyon (First Gen) Fan And Owner Page" on Facebook, which is a very active group for 1st gen owners. Link: facebook.com/groups/1191961547485485 Again, the more details you can include the better. Exact make/model of vehicle, service history, age/mileage, any significant repair history or history of issues, etc. You'll laugh, but I've seen people start asking questions without explaining such basic things as "Oh yeah, I put a different engine in it", stuff like that would be helpful to know in advance! LOL. Hope this information, and the links to the above forums, helps. Let us know if you figure out what the issue is!
Hi! Thanks for the comment. I saw from your other comment that you have a 2006 Hummer H3 with the i5, is that correct? The sensor closer to the engine is most likely the upstream sensor. The one further down is the downstream sensor. I suggest you make use of a search engine such as the parts selector on RockAuto.com website to help you verify exactly which parts you need, since every model year of vehicle is different. Good luck!
Hola Mike gracias por tu vídeo. En mi camioneta 2008 3.7L he buscado ese conector del sensor 2 de oxigeno y daba con el. La camioneta es de segunda mano y voy arreglando sus detalles. El sensor 2 estaba desconectado y hay una pieza con dos reles que está suelta. Me imagino es esa pieza pero la pieza está quemada derretida. No consigo la foto de referencia en internet. Pero creo esa pieza corresponde a ese conector faltante.
Hi! Thanks for the comment. Glad my video was helpful! I ran your comment through google translate and wasn't exactly clear what you meant about a burnt or melted piece, however I'd imagine that with as close as these sensors are to the exhaust, it would be possible to melt the connectors if they lay on it for too long. I recommend RockAuto for parts like that. Maybe something like one of these would help? imgur.com/a/H5VEY5s (image hosted on Imgur)
If you would leave the heat shield off would that have helped to access the downstream O2 connector? Then unplug it and remove with the sensor still in position on the manifold? When reinstalling couldn't it be tried to tighten the new downstream O2 sensor into the manifold below the cat and then install the manifold, then fish the wire and connector up with the heat shield not installed yet and connect from the top? Course you don't want to bang the downstream O2 sensor while lowering the entire manifold back down into the engine bay. I'm just thinking since you said you connected from the top I could do the same and not reinstall the heat shield to get just a little more space to unplug the wire and plug it back in. Then after the sensor is connected install the heat shield. Thanks for the video. I had a MAP and MAF sensor go bad it burned rich fried the cat got the P0420 code and has so much back pressure it's crazy. I bought a new Dorman 673-989 CARB qualified Manifold Cat paid $576 bucks less than 2 years ago. Cause of those sensors I have to buy a new CARB qualified Cat. I'm getting one from RockAuto for $447. An AP Exhaust 741226 It sucks that the CARB regulations apply and that Dorman makes JUNK. The current cost for The Dorman 673-989 is $825. Do NOT buy a Dorman for a truck in California. They suck!! If you buy an OEM from GM they are over a grand. Pisses me off. Also don't even think about a CARB approved Magnaflow Manifold/Cat they are well over $1,000 bucks and are backordered forever. If you need a CARB approved Manifold Cat buy the cheapest one made if you intend to keep your truck. I'll never buy anything Dorman again. PS The stock cat ran 158,000 miles and STANK when I replaced it. It never created so much back pressure that the truck felt like I was driving a SLUG.
2007 Colorado 5cyl.200k miles. been getting a 301 code cyl 1 misfire. I've changed the spark plugs, coils, fuel injector. all the connectors are getting juice. compression test good (haven't done a leak down). could the o2 sensor set off the cyl1 misfire? i would think that it would set off a misfire on all cylinders. any advice? also been having rough slow starts (mostly in the cold mornings)
Hi! Have you cleaned the throttle body? Mine has 200k as well. I don't think an O2 sensor would cause a problem with a single cylinder. Try posting your question in some of the forums like Colorado Fans and 355 Nation. Good luck!
fixed my problems, I ended up having a faulty injector causing the 301 code. the auto shop says I still have a slight misfire in cylinder 1 but apparently not big enough to set off the engine light. 200k miles im sure the cylinder has some wear on it. as for the occasional no start, it ended up being a passlock problem. "relearned" it and haven't had a problem since
Decades of doing car repairs in parking lots. I'm so glad my wife and I bought a house with garage in May 2020. Hopefully my more recent and future videos will be much better than this one. ☺️
Hi Jimm! Thanks for checking out my video. My truck is an '07 with the 3.7. The sensors changed for almost every year. Some years may only have a single sensor. Other years, with the V8 and dual exhaust, may have as many as four. I recommend using the parts search tool on RockAuto to narrow down the correct part (s) for your specific vehicle. It's pretty easy, just type whatever you're looking for into the search bar. Let me know if you have trouble with that site. Thanks! www.rockauto.com/
Mike, I have a 2007 colorado truck that's a five-cylinder and I am trying to get the right upper oxygen sensor that stuck and will not budge or move as I tried with that special grooved socket as you have in the video, now what do I do next in order to get it out?
Hi! Thanks for the comment. I'd try soaking it in a liberal amount of PB Blaster, or some similar type of "rust eating" spray. I'm not sure if it would make it easier or harder, but you could also try running the engine for a minute, first. Try doing it with the exhaust warm as well as cold. Off-hand I think it would be easier cold though. Grab that spray and start soaking it down! 🤣
Hi! It's been a while since I made this video but if I recall correctly I was able to reach the upstream sensor (before the 1st cat) by reaching down through the engine compartment. The other one I had to get from below. This was on an '07 with the I5 3.7 engine. If you have a different year or engine they may be located in different places. Good luck!
Thanks, interestingly, I was just looking again at my MAF Module ( been properly removed, & cleaned , once, &reinstalled --- never an issue, as : interestingly, I used K&N **(**OILED Hi PERF COTTON filters for some 120,000 miles carefully) ; and we relocated to HIGH / Severe DUST , O2,fuel ! new Gas /& radiator Cap… At 141,000 MAF due replacement, and others,.. As , inspection showed my BLOWER FAN RESISTOR ( pig Tails plug into) two contacts were mildly blackened , imhad 3 & Hi RANDOM Shut off occasionally… actually replace Blower if it hallens again, OR IN fall when Studded Tires go on Rims, etc.
Interesting, my 06 has the downstream one immediately after the second cat (directly above the torsion bar, naturally). Dunno if that's a year difference or 3.5 vs 3.7 thing or what
I know this is late, did you just end up taking the torsion bar off to access the plug? That’s about where I’m at to get it off, everything I’ve tried can’t get a good angle no matter how I cram it on lol. Already unfortunately rounded edges going at it with a standard wrench…. I know, stupid of me.
Hi! Thanks for the comment. It is a special socket designed for removing oxygen sensors. As far as I know all O2 sensors are the same - universal - size. Regular sockets won't be deep enough or have the groove for the wire - you should be able to pick up an oxygen sensor socket at most auto parts stores or on Amazon. 😃
@@CompTechMike I have change one on my 1994 F-150 a couple of times. I bought a 7/8 wrench for the job. Looking at the up stream sensor on the Colorado, do you think you could get a wrench on it or is it recessed?
@@davidlovette893 You could probably get it with a wrench if you are determined enough, but personally I would just buy the correct socket. Makes it much easier in my opinion. 🤷🤣 Good luck!
@@davidlovette893 Good luck! Sometimes I dislike buying "specialty tools". My wife's Toyota requires a special tool to remove the oil filter, for example. But an oxygen sensor socket is one of those things where "it's better to have it and not need it than need it and not have it", if that makes sense? Just my opinion, anyway. Good luck, let me know how it goes! 😃👍👍
Hi! Thanks for the comment. I did not have any detectable issues with the sensors. Standard replacement cycle is 100,000 miles. My truck was at 190,000 miles when I recorded this video, so 90,000 past when I should have changed them... so this was just preventative maintenance. 😄 That said, failing oxygen sensors will usually throw a code. So check with a code scanner if you think you're having a problem with yours. Good luck!
@@CompTechMike thanks for the reply so it was preventative maintenance so no check engine light.I am having a rough stumbling idle on a h3 hummer was going switch it out
@@bryancarrion5569 I would clean your MAF and throttle body first (if you haven't already). Also check for vacuum leaks underneath the resonator box. And inspect your VVT solenoid (if you have the kind with the screens that fall out). Good luck!
Great tip, I appreciate the video. question I have a 09 Colorado 2.9l I did a scan and showed a code (P0134). after it warms up it starts to stall and black smoke comes on of the exhaust every 2-5 minutes. Is that a symptom of a bad oxygen sensor?
Hi! If you have stalling and black smoke I would suggest doing a complete tune up (spark plugs, air filter, and oil & filter with a high quality oil). Also clean the MAF and throttle body. You should probably also change the oxygen sensors, but they alone wouldn't cause stalling. Good luck!
This happened after I change oil, spark plug oil and air filter. Cleaned out the throttle body as well. The black smoke only happend when I cleaned and change the valve cover gasket and intake manifold gasket.
Great video, my downstream sensor was actually in a different spot. Unfortunately the damn check engine light is still lit…I’m starting to think it’s just bad gas.
@@CompTechMike when I went to advanced auto, It read o2 sensor and something about the gas. Bought a new gas cap, put in some gas treatment, and just changed the o2 sensors, light is still on
Hi! Yes, they are two different part numbers. You need to be careful to put the upstream and downstream sensors in the correct location. This can vary depending on what model year and engine you have. Some Colorado's have only one oxygen sensor. Some have two or three. Good luck!
Thanks for the information! I forgot, I think they did change that sometime around 2007. Do you have the 4 cylinder or the 3.5L I5? Does yours have single or dual catalytic converters?
Same here. I have an 06 3.5L (2 door) and the 2nd O2 is toward the middle near the cat. I tried looking to see if there are more but that's all I can find. The 1st one is in the same position as the video though. Kind of weird they'd change it around so much.. Maybe it depends on the trim / motor config?
@@MemelordSupreme I think it's because of the engine change - 2004 to 2006 has a 3.5. 2007 and later is a 3.7. I don't know anyone with a 1st gen with the optional V8, but I bet those are different, as well.
Hi John! I'm sorry, I don't understand your question. The "sensor" side of the oxygen sensor threads into the exhaust. The other side is the wire - it connects to the vehicle wiring harness. Typically it just unclips (uses standard automotive-style electrical connectors).
Hi! Thanks for commenting on my video. My 07 Colorado has 215k miles and has averaged a pretty consistent 300 miles per tank for the majority of that. This is doing a mixture of city and highway driving in traffic-clogged Northern Virginia. I don't use 4WD very often but do haul loads pretty frequently. I'm a big fan of doing preventive maintenance whenever I get a chance, and consider replacing O2 sensors a general maintenance item. If your vehicle has more than 100k miles (even if you're not getting any codes) it's probably a good idea to replace the sensors. Hope this helps!
Hi! Thanks for the comment. On my 2007 there are only two. I believe on a few earlier models there was only one, and on later models there are three. So it varies by year.
@@ing.martinz Hi! Thanks for the comment. In my 2007 Chevy Colorado with the i5 there are two sensors. Rockauto.com website suggests that a 2006 Hummer H3 may have two as well - an upstream and a downstream. I recommend doing your own verification on this prior to making a purchase. Good luck!
I have the 05 i5 model, the downstream sensor is after the cat, you will need to lay on your back to get to it. It's simple. Also you WILL NEED a wrench not a special socket
Hi James, thanks for the suggestion. This video is about six years old. In my newer ones I do try to show how to disconnect electrical connections, etc., when possible. Fortunately in the 1st gen Colorado / Canyon platform it is a pretty standard automotive-style connector. Pull out the "lock tab", then lift up and pull the connectors apart. I do talk about the connectors in the video; here's a link to a few pictures of the connector, as well. Hope this helps! imgur.com/a/KlaAyx1 (images hosted on Imgur)
If you liked this video or found it helpful, please "like" and "subscribe" to my channel. It really helps me out a lot. I have dozens of videos on troubleshooting and repairs of 1st generation Chevy Colorado and regularly add more. Check out the entire playlist here:
ua-cam.com/play/PLZsiP8a81zDFWVAWL_RxIkDSn2TSAcU8y.html
My current truck has 237,000 miles and is still running great. Hope to keep it that way a lot longer. Thanks!
I have a 2007 and I really like the video you did an excellent job and thank you
@@elmerkerth3871 you're welcome! Glad to help. 😊
Thanks for the video, Mike! It's a good video, but I'm not sure I will attempt to tackle this myself though. I'm pretty novice when it comes to this kind of project. Thanks again!
They can definitely be done with basic hand tools but can be a bit hard to reach, and can be frustrating especially if you don't have good weather outside or a garage to work in. Worth calling around for a few quotes before deciding whether or not to do it yourself. Good luck, whatever you decide. 😊
This video was very helpful. I just replaced my oxygen sensors in my '07 Colorado. Watching this video prior made the process smooth and flawless. Thanks! Can't wait to see what other stuff you do to your Colorado.
Fantastic! Glad to hear it went well for you. 👍👍
Thanks for helping out and showing some methods about oxygen sensors. I will look forward on other projects down the road, thanks again.
You're welcome! Glad to help. 😊👍👍
I have a 2008 2.9L i4 and was able to replace *both* O2 sensors from above. I used a regular 3/8 ratchet with an O2 socket and reached deep down from above to access the downstream sensor. There was just enough room to turn the wrench and loosen it up. Accessing the plug was pretty easy from above also. I think it was easier this way than accessing it from below. I didn't need to jack up the truck or remove the wheel.
Mike, thanks so much for all your helpful Colorado videos.
Nice! Did you feel like it was easier on the i4 engine because it is smaller? Is there more room to reach your hands down around the engine compared to the 5-cylinder?
@@CompTechMike I'm just a beginner owner-mechanic and haven't worked on the i5 engine so I don't know how much less room there is in the engine bay from personal experience (only your video), but your logic makes sense and it may only be possible to access both sensors from above on the smaller i4 engine. Still, there was not a lot of room and those with large hands or short arms may have a problem even on the i4 engine.
Thanks again! Thanks to your videos I have replaced both O2 sensors, PCV hose, MAF sensor, ignition coils, and windshield cowl, cleaned the throttle body, and replaced the front and rear differential fluid and transfer case fluid.
The only major maintenance I need to complete now is to fix an oil consumption issue which I believe is related to a plugged up venting assembly inside the valve cover that results in oil being sucked into the intake via the breather hose - are you familiar with this issue? I have read about it on a couple of forums and the fix seems to be to remove the valve cover and clean the "oil drain back tabs". It would be awesome if you made a video on fixing this issue as it seems to be a common problem on 1st gen trucks with over 100K miles!
@@GAMP-b2s Hi! Wow, thank you for the detailed response. I do think the i4 engine would have a little more room around it; similarly I've heard the Z71 suspension has more room compared to the Z85 suspension. This is owing to the Z71 using torsion bars and Z85 using large coil springs on either side. Either way, sure makes me miss my old cars from the 1960's to early 1970's, you could practically lift the hood and climb in there, LOL. 🤣
I have heard of the oil consumption issue caused by oil caking up the passages at the top of the valve cover. I had a similar issue which I believe was caused by the PCV hose going into the intake manifold being cracked and not able to seal or develop enough vacuum to vent properly. I replaced my hose in this video, still working on the hypothesis but replacing it does seem to have helped with my oil consumption.
ua-cam.com/video/U143gNZlWbU/v-deo.html
Here is a link to the hose I purchased (may be different for an i4 engine):
www.amazon.com/ACDelco-15123628-Original-Equipment-Ventilation/dp/B00S0G18Z2/
Maybe try replacing the hose first, and spraying a little cleaner down the intake while you're doing it? I'd suggest something like MAF cleaner that dissolves completely. Just an idea, anyway. Haven't removed the valve cover yet on mine, am a bit scared of the plastic intake on there. Although I suppose eventually I should remove everything and give the throttle body a good cleaning. Or I may replace it with one of those "Supermodulation " ported & polished throttle bodies!
Here is another video I recommend. This is the 4.2 engine but check out the oil pickup at the 5:30 minute mark. Horrible! This is why I always recommend using premium brands of oil and change it regularly, LOL. 🤣
ua-cam.com/video/aHmcJjjlf9w/v-deo.html
@@CompTechMike I watched your video where you replace the PCV hose and purchased one along with a bunch of other parts for all the maintenance I just completed. I didn't even know what the condition of my hose was but figured it was easy enough and cheap enough to replace and it wouldn't hurt after 125K. When I inspected the original hose I discovered that it was in good condition with no cracks but I could see that the ends of the hose had signs of age that would likely develop into cracks in the next couple of years. So I think it turned out that it was a good idea to replace the hose.
So my oil consumption issue does not appear to be from a cracked PCV valve. I've read others say that spraying anything inside the valve cover won't fix the problem because apparently the internal baffle design would not be cleared up from simply spraying air or cleaner inside. I guess it really needs to be taken off and cleaned well in order to solve the problem. However, I see one video where the mechanic does just clean it out and spray air inside with good results. He also shows a way to troubleshoot the issue by watching for burning oil/smoke from the oil dipstick tube:
ua-cam.com/video/IwmEpEjTxaU/v-deo.html
That video link you posted about the clogged oil pickup tube is frightening and definitely makes a good case for using top-quality oil. My truck has had Mobil 1 full synthetic and filters used since new so I know I am good there.
THANKS FOR SHARING MIKE! YOU SAVED ME 180.00 DOLLARS! THATS WHAT THE SHOP WOULD HAVE CHARGED ME!! APPRECIATE IT👍
Fantastic! Glad to help. 😁
Hey great video! I followed step by step for the first O2 sensor in my ‘05 Colorado (Especially the special socket tool). You crushed my spirit when you said there are two of them but I replaced one for now. My check engine light has not turned on after installing the new sensor. Thanks again!
Nice! Pretty sure they still have two sensors on an '05 - an upsteam sensor and a downstream sensor. May be in slightly different locations than on my '07, but if you got one you can do the other. Good luck!
@@CompTechMike The OReilly tech hooked up the computer to my car and it was the upstream sensor that triggered the check engine light. I’ll for sure make it a future project to change the downstream since my truck is near 165k and I doubt these were changed by the original owner... I certainly haven’t!
This helped me out so much! Thank you!
But may I ask where you got your tool chest for the back of your truck?
Hi! Glad the video was helpful. I got the toolbox at my local Lowes hardware store a few years ago. I'm not sure if they still have them in stock but you should be able to check their website to find some near you. You can also try stores like Home Depot and Tractor Supply. They sometimes have different sizes in stock, as well. Just make sure to measure the correct width / bed size for your vehicle. Safe travels!
Great video, it does help out a lot, more than you know!
Awesome! Glad to help. ☺️👍👍
Super mister desde chile.un abrazo
You're very welcome! Glad to know that my videos are helping people all over the world continue to keep their trucks running. 🙂
Bueno recomendable solo me gustaria saber colorado 2012 2.9 tiene estos mismos sensores agradere su confirmacion
Hi Oscar! Thanks for checking out my Chevy Colorado repair videos. I don't speak Spanish, but if Google Translate is correct you are asking if these are the same parts for a 2012 2.9l 4-cylinder engine, correct?
I don't have a 2012 here to compare to but looked up that model on RockAuto.com. Based on that, I think GM Genuine 2133207 upstream and GM Genuine 2133908 downstream sensors should work for your vehicle. See screenshot below:
imgur.com/a/rZpPzZ6
(image hosted on Imgur.com)
Hope this helps!
Okay, I have 05 canyon and it goes to reduced power mode traction fault I called gm and they have list of things that could make it do that and the oxygen sensors is what they said is one issue I’ve changed the throttle body that’s not it it’s not MAF sensor and I’ve even taken the traction and abs fuses out until I can get it fixed and it still ain’t working, so any clues on what it could actually be I’ve took it to a mechanic and he said I needed a chip key because the theft thing was on but the locksmith said this year didn’t have a chip key because it was built in the ignition, so I’m getting the run around.
Hi! Thanks for commenting on my video. It sounds like you've got a lot to unpack here, so let's start at the bottom:
Your locksmith is correct and your mechanic is not. 1st generation Chevy Colorado & GMC Canyon use a system called Passlock (not PassKey). Passlock is notoriously unreliable and frequently causes starting problems. If you see the lock on your dashboard and the truck cranks (but does not start) that is because Passlock is engaged. It is frequently discussed in the truck forums and Facebook groups. There are three most common ways of resolving Passlock issues. You can either replace the part (but eventually it will fail again), cut a wire under your dash, or have it tuned out. Most tuning shops that work on our type of trucks can do this (it is called "VATS delete"). If you do not have a local tuner you can send your PCM to someone like "PCM of NC" and they can perform the service. That's what I did when mine first started acting up in 2014. No starting problems since! 😁
You can read more about Passlock and PassKey here:
ricksfreeautorepairadvice.com/gm-anti-theft-systems-overview/
Now to your main question, reduced power and traction fault, it could be any of a list of things, like GM mentioned. Your best bet would be to find a competent mechanic who's familiar with these vehicles and has proper diagnostic code scanning tools. Otherwise you're just going to be throwing parts at it.
So that's what I'd recommend. If you're having trouble starting the truck, get your Passlock issue resolved first. Either replace the part, cut the wire, or have it tuned out. My recommendation is to go with the tune.
www.pcmofnc.com/
Next, take it to a mechanic who's able to scan for ABS faults. A basic code scanner cannot do this, you need a specific code scanner for this. If you find out what the code is, come back and let us know. Thanks!
@@CompTechMike it cranks and runs but going down the road it will stall causing it to go into reduced power mode, and okay thanks so much now Ik not to take it back to him.
Is that sensor considered bank 1 that's on top under the hood?
Hi! Thanks for the comment. There's only one bank on an inline engine. There's an upstream sensor (the one before the cat) and a downstream sensor (the one after the cat). If you're getting a check engine light related to the oxygen sensors, they're cheap enough and it's usually a good idea to just replace both of them. What code are you getting? Any performance issues?
My husbands truck keeps saying reduce power and it doesn’t accelerate. It will eventually die on side of road. Anyone know what that could be?
Hi Cadie! Thanks for checking out my UA-cam videos on Colorado repair. The "reduced power mode" indicates that the vehicle's powertrain control module has detected a system failure and it has intentionally limited your vehicle's performance. This is frequently a "limp home" mode designed to get you home (or safely off the road). The vehicle should not be operated for extended periods when in this condition.
As for the exact cause, it can be very difficult to diagnose remotely. Could be anything from a faulty sensor to a major mechanical failure with the vehicle. I would recommend first hooking up a code scanner (often free to borrow from local auto parts stores, if you don't already have one) and write down the complete details of every code presented. You can take that information to your mechanic or post on forums such as coloradofans.com, 355nation.net, and the "Chevy Colorado & Canyon (First Gen) Fan And Owner Page" on Facebook, which is a very active group for 1st gen owners. Link:
facebook.com/groups/1191961547485485
Again, the more details you can include the better. Exact make/model of vehicle, service history, age/mileage, any significant repair history or history of issues, etc. You'll laugh, but I've seen people start asking questions without explaining such basic things as "Oh yeah, I put a different engine in it", stuff like that would be helpful to know in advance! LOL.
Hope this information, and the links to the above forums, helps. Let us know if you figure out what the issue is!
Thank you for this video! My 2007 canyon probably needs the oxygen sensors replaced to hahah
You're welcome! Glad to help. 😁
ايش مشكلهزغي الطفي وتشغيل مابش
Hello, I want to know which is the sensor that goes in the exhaust after the manifold (which is changed on the side of the wheel)
Hi! Thanks for the comment. I saw from your other comment that you have a 2006 Hummer H3 with the i5, is that correct? The sensor closer to the engine is most likely the upstream sensor. The one further down is the downstream sensor. I suggest you make use of a search engine such as the parts selector on RockAuto.com website to help you verify exactly which parts you need, since every model year of vehicle is different. Good luck!
Hola Mike gracias por tu vídeo. En mi camioneta 2008 3.7L he buscado ese conector del sensor 2 de oxigeno y daba con el. La camioneta es de segunda mano y voy arreglando sus detalles. El sensor 2 estaba desconectado y hay una pieza con dos reles que está suelta. Me imagino es esa pieza pero la pieza está quemada derretida.
No consigo la foto de referencia en internet. Pero creo esa pieza corresponde a ese conector faltante.
Hi! Thanks for the comment. Glad my video was helpful! I ran your comment through google translate and wasn't exactly clear what you meant about a burnt or melted piece, however I'd imagine that with as close as these sensors are to the exhaust, it would be possible to melt the connectors if they lay on it for too long.
I recommend RockAuto for parts like that. Maybe something like one of these would help?
imgur.com/a/H5VEY5s
(image hosted on Imgur)
If you would leave the heat shield off would that have helped to access the downstream O2 connector? Then unplug it and remove with the sensor still in position on the manifold? When reinstalling couldn't it be tried to tighten the new downstream O2 sensor into the manifold below the cat and then install the manifold, then fish the wire and connector up with the heat shield not installed yet and connect from the top? Course you don't want to bang the downstream O2 sensor while lowering the entire manifold back down into the engine bay. I'm just thinking since you said you connected from the top I could do the same and not reinstall the heat shield to get just a little more space to unplug the wire and plug it back in. Then after the sensor is connected install the heat shield. Thanks for the video. I had a MAP and MAF sensor go bad it burned rich fried the cat got the P0420 code and has so much back pressure it's crazy. I bought a new Dorman 673-989 CARB qualified Manifold Cat paid $576 bucks less than 2 years ago. Cause of those sensors I have to buy a new CARB qualified Cat. I'm getting one from RockAuto for $447. An AP Exhaust 741226 It sucks that the CARB regulations apply and that Dorman makes JUNK. The current cost for The Dorman 673-989 is $825. Do NOT buy a Dorman for a truck in California. They suck!! If you buy an OEM from GM they are over a grand. Pisses me off. Also don't even think about a CARB approved Magnaflow Manifold/Cat they are well over $1,000 bucks and are backordered forever. If you need a CARB approved Manifold Cat buy the cheapest one made if you intend to keep your truck. I'll never buy anything Dorman again. PS The stock cat ran 158,000 miles and STANK when I replaced it. It never created so much back pressure that the truck felt like I was driving a SLUG.
2007 Colorado 5cyl.200k miles. been getting a 301 code cyl 1 misfire. I've changed the spark plugs, coils, fuel injector. all the connectors are getting juice. compression test good (haven't done a leak down). could the o2 sensor set off the cyl1 misfire? i would think that it would set off a misfire on all cylinders. any advice? also been having rough slow starts (mostly in the cold mornings)
Hi! Have you cleaned the throttle body? Mine has 200k as well. I don't think an O2 sensor would cause a problem with a single cylinder. Try posting your question in some of the forums like Colorado Fans and 355 Nation. Good luck!
@@CompTechMike yes, throttle body is clean
I had a vacuum leak under the box that caused the same cylinder 1 misfire on cold mornings. Worth a try. Good luck
@@richardlocke3375 the resonator box? the hose in the back that goes to the head cover?
fixed my problems, I ended up having a faulty injector causing the 301 code. the auto shop says I still have a slight misfire in cylinder 1 but apparently not big enough to set off the engine light. 200k miles im sure the cylinder has some wear on it. as for the occasional no start, it ended up being a passlock problem. "relearned" it and haven't had a problem since
Decades of doing car repairs in parking lots. I'm so glad my wife and I bought a house with garage in May 2020. Hopefully my more recent and future videos will be much better than this one. ☺️
You do good job how do stuff on Chevy Colorado thanks
Thank you! Glad to help!
Hello Mike.
To get the right part numbers- which motor did you have?
The 3.5 or the 2.8?
Thank you.
Hi Jimm! Thanks for checking out my video. My truck is an '07 with the 3.7. The sensors changed for almost every year. Some years may only have a single sensor. Other years, with the V8 and dual exhaust, may have as many as four. I recommend using the parts search tool on RockAuto to narrow down the correct part (s) for your specific vehicle. It's pretty easy, just type whatever you're looking for into the search bar. Let me know if you have trouble with that site. Thanks!
www.rockauto.com/
Thanks mike for making this video ☝🏼👉🏽👍🏻👍🏻
You're welcome! Glad to help! :D
Mike, I have a 2007 colorado truck that's a five-cylinder and I am trying to get the right upper oxygen sensor that stuck and will not budge or move as I tried with that special grooved socket as you have in the video, now what do I do next in order to get it out?
Hi! Thanks for the comment. I'd try soaking it in a liberal amount of PB Blaster, or some similar type of "rust eating" spray. I'm not sure if it would make it easier or harder, but you could also try running the engine for a minute, first. Try doing it with the exhaust warm as well as cold. Off-hand I think it would be easier cold though. Grab that spray and start soaking it down! 🤣
Mike I have a question you remove first sensor for up side engine or fender . thks
Hi! It's been a while since I made this video but if I recall correctly I was able to reach the upstream sensor (before the 1st cat) by reaching down through the engine compartment. The other one I had to get from below. This was on an '07 with the I5 3.7 engine. If you have a different year or engine they may be located in different places. Good luck!
@@CompTechMike thanks Mike
Thanks, interestingly, I was just looking again at my MAF Module ( been properly removed, & cleaned , once, &reinstalled --- never an issue, as : interestingly, I used K&N **(**OILED Hi PERF COTTON filters for some 120,000 miles carefully) ; and we relocated to HIGH / Severe DUST , O2,fuel ! new Gas /& radiator Cap… At 141,000 MAF due replacement, and others,.. As , inspection showed my BLOWER FAN RESISTOR ( pig Tails plug into) two contacts were mildly blackened , imhad 3 & Hi RANDOM Shut off occasionally… actually replace Blower if it hallens again, OR IN fall when Studded Tires go on Rims, etc.
Sounds like you're on top of the maintenance!
Interesting, my 06 has the downstream one immediately after the second cat (directly above the torsion bar, naturally). Dunno if that's a year difference or 3.5 vs 3.7 thing or what
Hi! Yes, they changed the number and location of the sensors in almost every year. Pretty crazy!
I know this is late, did you just end up taking the torsion bar off to access the plug? That’s about where I’m at to get it off, everything I’ve tried can’t get a good angle no matter how I cram it on lol. Already unfortunately rounded edges going at it with a standard wrench…. I know, stupid of me.
What is the size of the socket
Hi! Thanks for the comment. It is a special socket designed for removing oxygen sensors. As far as I know all O2 sensors are the same - universal - size. Regular sockets won't be deep enough or have the groove for the wire - you should be able to pick up an oxygen sensor socket at most auto parts stores or on Amazon. 😃
@@CompTechMike I have change one on my 1994 F-150 a couple of times. I bought a 7/8 wrench for the job. Looking at the up stream sensor on the Colorado, do you think you could get a wrench on it or is it recessed?
@@davidlovette893 You could probably get it with a wrench if you are determined enough, but personally I would just buy the correct socket. Makes it much easier in my opinion. 🤷🤣 Good luck!
@@CompTechMike The Ford was pretty easy to get with the wrench. I guess I will buy a socket before my son comes home this weekend
@@davidlovette893 Good luck! Sometimes I dislike buying "specialty tools". My wife's Toyota requires a special tool to remove the oil filter, for example. But an oxygen sensor socket is one of those things where "it's better to have it and not need it than need it and not have it", if that makes sense? Just my opinion, anyway. Good luck, let me know how it goes! 😃👍👍
If this video was helpful please "like" and "subscribe". Thanks!
Great video. Thank you !!!
Thanks! Glad to help. 😀
Hello mike what where your symptoms??
Hi! Thanks for the comment. I did not have any detectable issues with the sensors. Standard replacement cycle is 100,000 miles. My truck was at 190,000 miles when I recorded this video, so 90,000 past when I should have changed them... so this was just preventative maintenance. 😄 That said, failing oxygen sensors will usually throw a code. So check with a code scanner if you think you're having a problem with yours. Good luck!
@@CompTechMike thanks for the reply so it was preventative maintenance so no check engine light.I am having a rough stumbling idle on a h3 hummer was going switch it out
@@bryancarrion5569 I would clean your MAF and throttle body first (if you haven't already). Also check for vacuum leaks underneath the resonator box. And inspect your VVT solenoid (if you have the kind with the screens that fall out). Good luck!
Great tip, I appreciate the video. question I have a 09 Colorado 2.9l I did a scan and showed a code (P0134). after it warms up it starts to stall and black smoke comes on of the exhaust every 2-5 minutes. Is that a symptom of a bad oxygen sensor?
Hi! If you have stalling and black smoke I would suggest doing a complete tune up (spark plugs, air filter, and oil & filter with a high quality oil). Also clean the MAF and throttle body. You should probably also change the oxygen sensors, but they alone wouldn't cause stalling. Good luck!
This happened after I change oil, spark plug oil and air filter. Cleaned out the throttle body as well. The black smoke only happend when I cleaned and change the valve cover gasket and intake manifold gasket.
Great video, my downstream sensor was actually in a different spot. Unfortunately the damn check engine light is still lit…I’m starting to think it’s just bad gas.
Thanks! Yeah, they changed the oxygen sensor locations on every model year and engine. Crazy. What code are you getting?
@@CompTechMike when I went to advanced auto, It read o2 sensor and something about the gas. Bought a new gas cap, put in some gas treatment, and just changed the o2 sensors, light is still on
@@NaeroK87 Have you reset it since you changed the sensors? Try that and see if the light comes back on.
@@CompTechMike that’s what I was thinking actually, I’ll have to do that. Thanks again.
@@CompTechMike just want to send an update, the reset did work and now no check engine light 👍 thanks again
IS IT POSSIBLE TO MAKE A MISTAKE AND PUT UPSTRING SENSOR DOWN AND VICE VERSA🤔
Hi! Yes, they are two different part numbers. You need to be careful to put the upstream and downstream sensors in the correct location. This can vary depending on what model year and engine you have. Some Colorado's have only one oxygen sensor. Some have two or three. Good luck!
@@CompTechMike THANKS!! MY COLORADO SPORT LS 4 DOOR HAS 2 👍
No, the connectors are different
My 2004 Chevy Colorado oxygen sensor are different location one is located by the middle of the truck
Thanks for the information! I forgot, I think they did change that sometime around 2007. Do you have the 4 cylinder or the 3.5L I5? Does yours have single or dual catalytic converters?
Same here. I have an 06 3.5L (2 door) and the 2nd O2 is toward the middle near the cat. I tried looking to see if there are more but that's all I can find. The 1st one is in the same position as the video though. Kind of weird they'd change it around so much.. Maybe it depends on the trim / motor config?
@@MemelordSupreme I think it's because of the engine change - 2004 to 2006 has a 3.5. 2007 and later is a 3.7. I don't know anyone with a 1st gen with the optional V8, but I bet those are different, as well.
I should have gotten a colorado year's ago.
They're good little trucks! Don't make 'em like this anymore. Even the new ones are radically different from the 1st gen.
what about changing the other end where u connect the oxygen sensor to the back end wire
Hi John! I'm sorry, I don't understand your question. The "sensor" side of the oxygen sensor threads into the exhaust. The other side is the wire - it connects to the vehicle wiring harness. Typically it just unclips (uses standard automotive-style electrical connectors).
Did this improve your fuel efficiency or maintain it?
Hi! Thanks for commenting on my video. My 07 Colorado has 215k miles and has averaged a pretty consistent 300 miles per tank for the majority of that. This is doing a mixture of city and highway driving in traffic-clogged Northern Virginia. I don't use 4WD very often but do haul loads pretty frequently. I'm a big fan of doing preventive maintenance whenever I get a chance, and consider replacing O2 sensors a general maintenance item. If your vehicle has more than 100k miles (even if you're not getting any codes) it's probably a good idea to replace the sensors. Hope this helps!
So are there only 2 o2 sensors on this type of truck?
Hi! Thanks for the comment. On my 2007 there are only two. I believe on a few earlier models there was only one, and on later models there are three. So it varies by year.
@@CompTechMike I have a 2006 hummer, how many does it carry?
@@ing.martinz Hi! Thanks for the comment. In my 2007 Chevy Colorado with the i5 there are two sensors. Rockauto.com website suggests that a 2006 Hummer H3 may have two as well - an upstream and a downstream. I recommend doing your own verification on this prior to making a purchase. Good luck!
@@CompTechMike 06 has 2 too
Looks like you could have gotten the upstream one from the bottom as well
Probably. Just gotta angle the wrench a bit different. There's definitely a few different ways to get at them. 😀
That upstream in the vid is the same as the one showed in the behind wheel shot the downstream is mid truck off cat
The problem I'm having was not in your video you paused them bam it's out I need to seen the part in-between the pause
Sorry about that! It's hard to hold a camera and use hand tools at the same time. I'm trying to get better about that. :-)
I have the 05 i5 model, the downstream sensor is after the cat, you will need to lay on your back to get to it. It's simple. Also you WILL NEED a wrench not a special socket
Excellent! Thanks for the comment. Every year has different O2 sensor locations. Mine is an '07 with the 3.7, I know your 3.5 would be different.
Or a izsuzu i 230 or a 1370
Except for the screw driver, looks like you stole my tools. 🙂
LOL! Too funny. I do love my tools. They're not much, but at least they're paid for. 🤣
Hi mike
Hi Ruben! Did you have a question?
it would be helpful to see how you got the clip out, not just show it finished.
Hi James, thanks for the suggestion. This video is about six years old. In my newer ones I do try to show how to disconnect electrical connections, etc., when possible.
Fortunately in the 1st gen Colorado / Canyon platform it is a pretty standard automotive-style connector. Pull out the "lock tab", then lift up and pull the connectors apart. I do talk about the connectors in the video; here's a link to a few pictures of the connector, as well. Hope this helps!
imgur.com/a/KlaAyx1
(images hosted on Imgur)
Could havecremoved the wheel well