Really appreciate how you have to adapt to natural processes such as erosion without just cementing everything and keeping the very minimal/natural look of it all
To start I struggled to understand the obsession with the hydro set up but seeing the vid today and remembering the massive planer running bought home to me that essentially that little stream is creating enough power to run a 3 phase monster. If everyone with access to a little stream installed hydro power generation what a difference it would make! Big congrats to Chris, it's official I'm a believer!!
So much respect he gave someone credit for an intelligent comment. Most other youtubers would’ve just passed it off as their own thought and made a video. All new respect for this guy.
Alright, I'll have a go. Take a poly 55 gallon drums. Cut out a hole the size of your pipe about 6 inches up from the bottom. Add an access plate next to that pipe for mucking out purposes. Set the poly drum so the stream fills it and the excess spills back into the steam. Put a mess screen on top to catch leaves. Save the poly drum's lid and set it on top to stop the flow, so you can muck out the bottom of the drum a couple times a year. You won't have any air bubbles with this system and probably more water pressure in return. Just my two pence. 🤪
Is it something like this you mean? ua-cam.com/video/wZ4JLTnbUy0/v-deo.html Found the link from this video where hi talks about different intakes. ua-cam.com/video/sixorfYKSwI/v-deo.html love your system, realy nice little power plant there
Hi Kris, glad my suggestion nudged you in a good direction. Hopefully when my hydro gets implemented you can help me out, you have a beautifully efficient small scale system. Merry Christmas ! Huw
Kris Harbour Natural Building Hey, sorry to jump in on the thread guys, (long-time viewer, first-time commenter) this video resulted in the UA-cam algorithm actually working and it recommended this ua-cam.com/video/-uOD9l1rEqk/v-deo.html ....I had to tell someone :) - if the link didn't work and you are curious the channel is Moulin En Pierre, it seems to be a very young channel and they have an old mill :)
Maybe to cut down on leaves hitting your grill, knock in the river some pieces of rebar about a foot apart and not in a straight line, kinda higgly piggly on the way down to the grill. That way leaves will wrap around the rebar and not get into the grill. They will break down and float over the grill.....maybe. Just a suggestion. Great work Kris.
Kris, could you do a bit of geeky Spreadsheet video, talking about your consumption of the Wattage generated the numbers, how you plan /ration your power consumption? The focus on maximising the generation would suggest you are close to the hairy edge (the blinking on the lights) so want some more "Headroom"? Excellent stuff and maybe someone can help you pinpoint some areas you could focus on. (Yes it means 90% of ill informed comments - but the other 10% will be solid gold).
I'd like to see this too.. Everybody likes to see numbers and scales to see how something is working, how well it's working and whether rationing comes into play.
It's a bit of an effort to set up if you've never done it before, but something like this is perfect for an Influx database. Combined with Grafana for querying the data, it's a great way of using free software to produce impressive graphs tracking your power production and use over time. I use it myself to track my own on-grid power use, temperature/humidity, etc. and it gives me a professional looking real-time dashboard of what's happening and where things are at. Do a Google image search for "grafana" to see what the dashboards can look like but be warned, if you're a bit geeky it'll probably make you immediately want to get it up and running yourself!
Hello and thank you for the videos. I too run a microhydroelectric plant. I tried a standpipe for some time near the colanda screen intake. I removed the standpipe after a trial run and now let out any air through the highest point of the system, the top of the intake screen. It is always good to get as much head as we can. Moving the intake up the creek as far as you can should help. I think the weir is better than a dam. A dam impounds water and a weir directs water. I love the remotely controlled automated valves and monitoring. I also dig the reciprocal roof in the roundhouse. Cheers.
Living, Learning.....knowing your own unique microclimate and environment is huge! We can all chip in but you are the fella 'on the ground '. Keep trying, you will master it. Happy everything Kris. xxx
A bit like videos online - they work best with a good buffer.. Fill the dam up just enough so that the intake always has a 'lead' on its supply. Now someone's mentioned it, it makes perfect sense, it'd also reduce (if not eliminate) air-intake. Boom, solid water supply for the turgo! :)
Here I am. By daming the intake you rid yourself of a couple of problems. Get rid of the current screen first as you can then cut the intake pipe at 45 degrees with the longer end up. Insert your screen there. Debris is less of a problem and air cannot get to the intake. I endeavor to satisfy.
@@tworley210 There is another benefit... a small pool would reduce have a much lower flow through the pool.... this in turn allows settling so it will reduce the sediment that is getting into stand-pipe.
I'm so jealous, I wish I had a stream. I would LOVE to build a similar setup. You've done amazing work Kris, I can't wait to see what you do next. Thanks for sharing :)
466W is 11kWh per day which is pretty dang good. That's about 1/3 of what I need to run my 3,000 sq foot house in California (with 6 tonnes of A/C) but in your cooler climate where you can use carbon neutral wood burning for heat, I suspect that is more than adequate. My solar system is 6kW which sounds like loads more, but it only runs at that level for about 3 hours. Because hydro runs 24/7 (when it is wet) that means your 466W system produces 1/3 the energy of my 6kW system (i.e. your micro turbine is equivalent to a 2kW solar system in California).
11 kWh/day is more than the average household here in Europe ever needs. If I would not operate servers I'd use ~ 7 kWh/day here at home in late autumn / beginning of winter. If you have the possibilities to build such a hydro turbine, you could pretty much cut your mains power bill to zero - which is insane to me! Sure the turbine and accessories cost a bit but you'd pretty much pay it off within one, maybe two years and be completely independent + CO2 neutral (regarding electricity).
@@TheFlatronify absolutely, but here we have 60 days a year where the temperature is over 100°F (the hottest day this past summer was 117°F) and the vast majority of the electric consumption is A/C. On the plus side we have 320 cloud free days per year, so solar works well. We have no possibility of micro hydro because we can go years without rain.
I've been on hydro for 30 years, replaced the batteries last year. I have three turbines each generate 950w summer and winter. I use one for my needs and run the house of the batteries, excess load heats hot water then dumps to the grid. The other unit supplies power to my sister about 400 metres away and the third is grid tied so the power company pays me to supply the grid at 13 cents/kwh. Only maintenance is grease the bearings twice a year and check on the inlet screen once a month.
@@homomorphic I live in Tasmania and have three creeks on my property. We get on average about 1800mm of rain a year mainly through winter. The creek the hydro runs off originates from a mountain spring at about 1100 metres elevation and permanently flows all year round. As there is no other properties up stream to us we use the creek water to supply the house and water for the rest of the property all gravity fed.
Drill holes in sides of intake to stop the suction from sucking leaves onto the screen intake. I say this without knowing much of your setup. Good luck , keep it up and Thanks for the vids
My suggestion is to make automatic and manual nozzle controller, additionally, If you can get some big pipes (300 / 400) you can also make an water bank. Nozzle controller: 3 waterpump switches, install them in the dam so that when it is rainy all 3 nozzles are active and when water decrease in the dam the nozzle wil automaticly shut down. Water bank: when there is way too much water in dam direct water into the 3/400 pipe for stor age. So when there is litl water in the dam youl have enough water to run at max or longer with only one nozzle. All that can be done by some switches and water barriers. Just an suggestion 😁
Sweet wattage. The guy in Colorado (MrHydrohead) bought the screen you're talking about when he had similar problems at his intake. You'll have to search his site to find the screen as I haven't followed him for a while. Personally, I would submerge the intake so that debris floats over it to the upper outflow of a small dam. You've got plenty of free stone and few bags of portland should see you through the project. If the intake is high enough, even silt will not be a problem. Modern dams put a ninety degree on the intake and put it up to just under the water's surface to avoid silt. Again, marvelous project. I call being out in the rain to work a project, Engineer's Fever.
Only 8 minutes in and thought you might want to take time to sketch out a plan for altering the stream. I mean dig a bypass channel and build a permanent concrete or pvc sluiceway, intake, screed and spillway. Then just block off the bypass channel to be used for maintenance and repairs or upgrades. Just thought I would throw my 2 cents in. Great video and channel.
I’ve mentioned a dam several times myself and the size I figured would be about what you are showing but I was figuring on creating a bit of a reservoir (pool) rather than a chase. I look forward to your explanation about why a dam is not the way to go.
Hey I love your channel for many reasons. The other evening I spent 14hrs straight watching. Suddenly it was dawn outside, but that didn’t stop me. You probably know this, but one great thing about that polyethylene pipe is that it can be welded (they call it fused) easily. That eliminates fittings and leaves a pretty smooth bore at the joint, perhaps increasing efficiency. There are special welders for this process, which I have not priced.
Great videos, recently found your channel. Though of tossing in My opinion on topic. My idea is similar to "Hello Friends3 weeks ago Alright, I'll have a go. Take a poly 55 gallon drums" Except for the poly barrel, and the additional debris and rock screening device which eliminates storm flow large rocks and debris from dislodging equipment. Build a rock structures, rectangular or circular. Top portion covered by 1/2 inch rebar minimal spaced at 1 inches apart. At 1 1/2 inches beneath this top screen having another using 1/4 inch rebar spaced around I/2 inches apart, then adding your fine screen beneath this. The Rock tower needs to be water tight, as in barrel idea outlet pipe being around 6 inches above the bottom. Near the bottom having draining hole or holes which can be plugged, maybe several small holes or one big hole. When unplugged will flush out fine sediments, keeping the sediment below water turbine feed pipelines inlet. Key is having this standpipe or tower full of water to give maximum head pressure. Flow rate from steam, i.e. stream velocity isn't the source of head pressure. The height of water column increases or decreases the head. Masonry standpipe will have greater durability against the heavy storm flows and large debris and rocks.
We used coanda effect screen for manufacturing brewery equipment. Perhaps you can find out if there is a shop that does the same near you and buy some off cuts from them. Good luck.
Hi Kris, I used a tee in a standpipe about 6 inches above the bottom for the standpipe inlet and then an elbow at the bottom for the outlet. Air and anything else that floats didn't get sucked down into the outlet and gives room in the 6 inches for a coarse wire filter. (It probably also helped a lot that my standpipe was 4", a much great area than the 1" inlet/outlets)
First I have a theory on the fluctuating watts on the Midnite solar classic, mine is fluctuating in the exact same manner and I don't have any bubbles that I know of currently. I suspect it's the MPPT tracking profile constantly fluctuating. Do you close the valves after emptying the system to allow all of the bubbles to foat out of the system? I could imagine a scenario where after refilling a bubble is trapped in a less-steep portion of the penstock by flowing water pushing it down. I recently had some odd behavior after I flushed it where it wouldn't pressurize above 80PSI with it operating, I shut the valve and waited a few minutes which allowed the bubble to float out which fixed the problem.
Hey I commented on old video of yours before I was subbed to you about putting a stand pipe in, and people said not so smart stuff about how it would need to 170 ft
@@rcs368 My system relies on a collection barrel to let bubbles float out before entering the penstock, and I have slope in the penstock all the way to the collection barrel. My velocities are high enough that if a bubble does enter it gets pushed down the penstock with anything over about 10 gallons per minute flow (1/3 system capacity). I know this because if the spring flow is too low I suck air and inadvertantly create a trompe pump with bubbles shooting out of the nozzle. Currently It doesn't operate with less than 10gpm so bubbles getting trapped aren't a concern if they did. A restricting bubble like I mentioned in the first comment would have been a fluke of startup. And it's 280 feet of head.
@@JoeMalovich I knew it was quite high. Sounds like intake design is sound. There are other things you can do to still generate in low flow flow conditions, such as dropping below your intake and installing an accumulator, with low and high mechanical float switches. Won't get into deep detail, but if you have any interest maybe I could put together a short pdf to upload. I was a pipe fitter/welder for years, and my ideas are based on industry design standards, and while I am not a mechanical engineer, my experience was hand in hand with such engineers. Anyway just a thought maybe help you and others out that love all the content creators doing off grid hydro projects.
@@RockMonster1000I've been busy, I don't think kris will mind me linking to my kilowatt turbine project playlist here: ua-cam.com/play/PLDda5L4aJUB8dX8hg4Aqwnq1u5vprKFiu.html
Hey Kris, your a Nature Person so use a Natural filter for your intake. Plant a Reed Bed upstream of the intake to catch all the debris. Hi From Australia.
The term for the screen is welded wedge wire. the wedges are rotated about 5 degrees. I searched for it for a long time and found a supplier in China that finally sent me some for about 120USD delivered. 400x400mm sheet. still to assemble to see how well it works. it seems that's the industry standard for the large installations.
Could you reduce the leaves by turning the area behind the sleeper dam into a large settling pond. You could also plant reeds/plants in the pond to catch any floating detritus
R1 Try to make it easier to read, remove the bits about baffling etc because they would cause more turbulence than I believe the deflection of debris would help. R2 Keeping the down and in place Part A Some thoughts and ideas for your new intake system: Build the box with two intakes one on each side. Make the bottom large enough to provide a place for stones and sand to help weight it down and keep sediment from getting up into the intakes. The lid hinged one on side and clasped on the other with a small (1/4”) hole or a small gap along the upstream edge to let any air out. This would allow easy cleaning of the inside of the box and the pig to be easily run through the entire length of the system. The top of the box should be about 2 inches below the top of the damn. The top of the intakes should about 2 inches below the top of the box and the bottom of the intakes about 4 inches or so above the bottom of the box. If debris should block the intakes, it might be possible to clear by simply shutting the system down briefly. The box should be made out of stainless steel or other durable material, not wood. It should have a bow like a boat and that can be filled with stone and sand to help weight it down. In side should have some sort of funneling to take the water from the intake to the pipe with the least amount of turbulence. Use 4 modified hurricane stakes to help hold it down and in place to it does not cause/allow the piping to slide slowly down hill. Use some material around the pipe as it goes through the damn to keep any expansion and contraction from damaging the damn. I will try to expand and clarify and time and health allow as well as adding some sketches. Part B. On the second system, you probably mention and got why did not want it separate. Here are some ideas that have already probably been brought up on why to make it a separate system. It would give you a chance to refine your turbine and manifold systems. It would avoid the whole pressure balancing the systems issue. It would provide you a secondary power source should one require extended time to repair. More power for the next building.
Maybe if you could find one of those concrete well rings you could put that on the higher ground and bury the intake in the bottom of that thing maybe set in some concrete mixed up, temporarily diverting the water around the inlet structure... The ring is large enough (most are about 3-4 feet in diameter and about 2-3 feet high) to have all the air escape before it can enter into the intake...It also can function as a bit of a buffer...
Like your spring maintenance raising your head increase the pipe sizes at least twice the pipe diameter with the head you will have more volume and head pressure also there by gaining efficiency !!! SCOTT from N.H.
Long term you're going to need a stone or concrete spillway so the riverbed below the intake pipe doesn't move out of position. It doesn't have to be much, two meters would probably plenty.
@kris , have you considered piping direct from the dam into the top of a 200 litre drum a few feet away. Then the outlet at the base of the drum goes to the turbine. This eliminates any air in the system. This would be especially ideal if you move the dam upstream as you suggested (situate the drum where the dam is currently) as it'll mean you don't need a pipe jointer (and it's added assc friction losses) to extend the pipe.
Also, if you have a data cable (or wireless connection, google HC-12 module) to the drum you can sense when the drum water level is full or low and then instruct the arduino to open or close another jet, so then you are automatically utilising full flow without manual adjustments. I have done something similar on mine whereas a second nozzle is automatically opened/closed when a high draw device like a kettle is running, to help prevent excess battery cycling..
ya man in US Joe Malovich has a half descent solution using a large barrel (as a reservoir) mount your large pipe mid way and set the barrel into stream in front of where you have your current head, a short flume to run into the barrel (maybe stainless, i know you like it), i like his idea for the water to create a mini vortex to suck out the silt, clever stuff, wasn't sure about his overflow, sure it could just run over the top
Could you build a box, or use a large plastic tub, to ensure your inlet is always 100% submerged? The stream can enter the top of the box and the inlet can feed from the bottom or lower side of the box. An angled screen above the inlet could make it self-cleaning and extra water can flow out the downstream side of the box..
All I know about hydro systems is from you and since day one I thought the intake wasnt very efficient but I thought you did it like this to prevent build up of ditritus.
If you put your intake in a small dam, you could add a level sensor so that your controller could monitor the level of water in the dam amd if it sees the water level start to decrease it closes nossles automatically to perfectly balance power generation with the streams flow rate.
well the intake will take water from the top not the bottom the small dam isnt to store water it is to gain enough hight to get the intake box in. Also that would require cable running all the way up to the intake. a far better system would be to measure the pressure at the turbine where there are already cables But i dont want to do that at the moment as it has not been an issue for me.
it would probably both look cool and be pretty functional if you made your intake like a concrete dam spillway with a long screen. That way the long intake would compensate for the suction and the total flow would rinse the intake as before.
Just wondering, why would you not route water to a header tank and pipe from there? That would completely eliminate any air intake issues and the header pressure would be 100% constant. Love your videos btw and am subscribed. Thanks :)
I know your on your near your boundary but always thought there was some easy extra head to be had near your intake. Maybe combine the “damn” with a bridge to cross easier and get max head
Automate it friend, have the system run flat out, when it detects a blockage to through the loss in power have it shut down to that one little nozel let the water flush the screen for an hour then it can re-open the other nozels
I have coanda screen pond filter and it does still clog but not as much as mesh. Look up Wisy Vortex rain harvesting filters if you've not seen them? They claim them to be self cleaning and they do seem good in the video demos but not sure if they can handle the flow rates you need.....there used to be someone selling them cheap direct from Germany on ebay but not sure if he's still selling.
A forebay is required after the filter system in order to have the air bubbles escape. Also, you may want to consider using 3d printing for testing a wedge wire (coanda effect) filter system inexpensively. Monitoring the intake water level using a low power wifi connection with a liquid level sensor can allow you to automate the flow rate.
If the pipe as far as the stand pipe was larger than after then air would become irrelevant as long as the head in the stand pipe was sufficient to prevent air being drawn down. Also if the feed to the stand pipe was a little higher than the drain air would be less likely to pass the stand pipe, pressure would be maintained because the hight of rise in the stand pipe. The stand pipe could be something like a barrel working as an air separator.
Hey Kris, huge fan of the channel, thank you for putting together these videos. Any chance we could get an update soon on your house? How's daily life, behind the scenes video editing, cooking, and stuff like that.
After my last offer I have emailed 2 places in the UK that make coanda screen, but no answer, and probably will be out till first week in January. The Powerspout stuff from NZ would end up with VAT and import duty on it. So £229.96 plus £43 shipping plus another £66.70 for import duty/vat comes to £339, which is a little beyond my generosity! If we can find something around the £200 mark I'd cover it. If another follower lives close to GAP Technology in Nottingham DN22 7PX, they make the stuff there for massive Hydro projects, maybe they could drop in and help a brother out! I think the accelerator plate is important too as it organises the lead in flow to make it more laminar, which keeps the screen clear, and makes the wedges work correctly in the coander screen
I don't know where in Wales you are, but maybe these guys might have something Dulas Ltd, Unit 1 Dyfi Eco Park, Machynlleth, Powys, SY20 8AX www.aquashear.com/single-screens/
Gap is about 30 minutes above me. Iv previously purchased kris’s hoodie(which is still going strong), if any one needs something collecting, give me a holla.thanks in advance
I have just emailed 5 more companies that are closer to me that make these "Wedge Wire screens" as they are called. I suspect businesses that make this stuff will have scrap piles out the back of their unit with loads of off cuts. Going in person and speaking to the lads on the shop floor would probably yield a really nice 400mm x 400mm offcut of some coanda screen material, which would totally sort Kris out for his summer dam intake overhaul. It needs to be made of 22SB or 28SB or 18SB standard wedge wire, with a slot gap around 1.5 to 2mm.
Hi Kris, Totally inexperienced comment here so feel free to ignore me. But would it be possible to fashion a kind of water wheel/brushing mechanism above the screen that could continually brush the intake screen? My thought is that it would use the excess water flowing over the screen but the mechanical action of brushed might help clear the screen automatically? Just an idea, might be a clear reason why this isn't possible/effective.
Hi Kris if the T on the stand pipe is sitting lower than the pipe either side then the level will rise up the stand pipe an inch or 2 and it should not suck in air.?
Kris if you use sleepers to dam up the water is there any risk of the chemicals in the sleeper leeching into the creek? Just curious what you think. Great video and nice find. Simple adjustments make some decent improvement in power output.
No i will use hardwood durable sleepers that are not treated. there is alot of them around here made from durable hardwoods that are being ripped up and replaced for concrete. I would never put teated wood in the stream.
Kris Harbour Natural Building ah makes sense. Unfortunately for me all the sleepers in the US are treated. Looking forward to the new addition. Love your videos keep up the great work.
Thanks kris very interesting could you fix the intake on to the rocks at the side in the summer with anchor bolts? I suppose the stream bed will erode away and you will need to compensate for this in a few years time but you could make the holes in the intake slots to allow for adjustments. Don't know much about hydro systems just throwing it out there. Thanks for all the videos in the last year really enjoyed super content well put together 👏👏👏 all the best for 2020🏴
is it possible to do like a brushed water wheel over the water intake that cleans itself up. haven't seen anything like this on the net, it might work.
Yes but there is a trade off for what is economically viable. those big valves are big money and then the actuators that drive them are £300 each and the gain would be very small. just a few watts for over £1000 worth of parts.
Why don't you build a small water dam 1m or 0.5m radius and have the pipe 10cm over the ground to avoid dirt (like you have done to the spring)? And also because is a dam the leaves will go over it.
Disclaimer. Im a marine engineer I have no idea what im talking about with regards to leaves blocking the intake. But im thinking you could scimm the surface of the water for debree (mainly leaves) when there is alot of it and when you run it at 450. I took some time to draw an example imgur.com/212SxUs The leaves would be forced up and over the "roof" bit. The height of the "scimmer" could be ajustable. To find the sweetspot for this system. Also im enjoying the content on your channel.
Hi kris, have you thought about installing a pre filter? Something simple to make, where the intake wouldn’t then block up. Hope you had a good Christmas, and all the best for the new year. Thanks as always for the videos.
What about literally channeling the water (the whole stream intake) into a large 12 -18 inch PVC funnel, where the water will still flow fast but collect enough at the opening that ail will not make its way into the flow, that should speed up the flow and prevent air gap's in the PVC length. With such a large opening a filter or screen to keep out leaves would hopefully not get clogged as much as the smaller opening you have now...maybe 8 to 10 feet of PVC length on a downward slope, having a smooth interior pipe wall should certain speed up the flow, idk. Spitballin ideas
Kris wouldn't it clog less with debris if the intake were slightly submerged in a short dam? might help with the air intake too. also maybe a windshield wiper motor attached to a brush to wipe the intake screen once an hour? just a couple of thoughts I had. the hydro system you've designed is absolutely brilliant.I have watched and LEARNED from your vids since you built your house. Thank you for sharing you knowledge. Hello from Las Vegas by the way!
Get an oil drum and fill with concrete but leaving a void in the shape of a funnel with an inward curving lip,then add a few holes radiating just below the lip so water rotation flings out debris?lol
Hey Kris. Another great video. Could air also be being sucked down your standpipe when running on full chat? A non return valve on the top just in case? Being air, the valve would only have to be tiny and cheap? Just a thought. Jord. High Peak.
So are you going to double the size of the intake, to prevent the 'suck down' issue? i should imagine its more complicated than that. Commented before end!
Kris, Send me a way to contact you, I may have some one way screen that may be some use. I would like to send some pics of what I have with the open % of it as well. I'm not sure if any of it will work for your needs, but would like to send some if it might be useful. FYI it's all stainless alloy sheets, many different varieties.
Could you move the stand pipe to immediately after the intake, maybe get rid of the air before it enters the pipe? Also, thank you for the variety of videos they are most informative
Could you not put a mesh housing, of some kind, over the intake to minimise leaf and debris blockages and maybe some other mechanical system to clean/clear on the go?
What about putting a screen a foot or so, above the intake, to catch some of the leaves and debris? Then you'd only have to clean it out once in a while versus everyday.
Почему приёмник для воды, сверху сделали без расширения? Вода как будто с воздухом заходит. Why is the receiver for the water from the top made without the extension? Water as if with air goes.
Really appreciate how you have to adapt to natural processes such as erosion without just cementing everything and keeping the very minimal/natural look of it all
To start I struggled to understand the obsession with the hydro set up but seeing the vid today and remembering the massive planer running bought home to me that essentially that little stream is creating enough power to run a 3 phase monster. If everyone with access to a little stream installed hydro power generation what a difference it would make! Big congrats to Chris, it's official I'm a believer!!
So much respect he gave someone credit for an intelligent comment. Most other youtubers would’ve just passed it off as their own thought and made a video. All new respect for this guy.
Alright, I'll have a go.
Take a poly 55 gallon drums.
Cut out a hole the size of your pipe about 6 inches up from the bottom.
Add an access plate next to that pipe for mucking out purposes.
Set the poly drum so the stream fills it and the excess spills back into the steam.
Put a mess screen on top to catch leaves.
Save the poly drum's lid and set it on top to stop the flow, so you can muck out the bottom of the drum a couple times a year.
You won't have any air bubbles with this system and probably more water pressure in return.
Just my two pence. 🤪
Is it something like this you mean?
ua-cam.com/video/wZ4JLTnbUy0/v-deo.html
Found the link from this video where hi talks about different intakes.
ua-cam.com/video/sixorfYKSwI/v-deo.html
love your system, realy nice little power plant there
Hi Kris, glad my suggestion nudged you in a good direction. Hopefully when my hydro gets implemented you can help me out, you have a beautifully efficient small scale system. Merry Christmas ! Huw
Hi, Yes thanks. And i would love to help. Feel free to email me with any questions.
Kris Harbour Natural Building Hey, sorry to jump in on the thread guys, (long-time viewer, first-time commenter) this video resulted in the UA-cam algorithm actually working and it recommended this ua-cam.com/video/-uOD9l1rEqk/v-deo.html ....I had to tell someone :) - if the link didn't work and you are curious the channel is Moulin En Pierre, it seems to be a very young channel and they have an old mill :)
Maybe to cut down on leaves hitting your grill, knock in the river some pieces of rebar about a foot apart and not in a straight line, kinda higgly piggly on the way down to the grill. That way leaves will wrap around the rebar and not get into the grill. They will break down and float over the grill.....maybe. Just a suggestion. Great work Kris.
Kris, could you do a bit of geeky Spreadsheet video, talking about your consumption of the Wattage generated the numbers, how you plan /ration your power consumption? The focus on maximising the generation would suggest you are close to the hairy edge (the blinking on the lights) so want some more "Headroom"? Excellent stuff and maybe someone can help you pinpoint some areas you could focus on. (Yes it means 90% of ill informed comments - but the other 10% will be solid gold).
I'd like to see this too..
Everybody likes to see numbers and scales to see how something is working, how well it's working and whether rationing comes into play.
It's a bit of an effort to set up if you've never done it before, but something like this is perfect for an Influx database. Combined with Grafana for querying the data, it's a great way of using free software to produce impressive graphs tracking your power production and use over time. I use it myself to track my own on-grid power use, temperature/humidity, etc. and it gives me a professional looking real-time dashboard of what's happening and where things are at. Do a Google image search for "grafana" to see what the dashboards can look like but be warned, if you're a bit geeky it'll probably make you immediately want to get it up and running yourself!
You've inspired me to work towards purchasing a couple acres and creating a homestead. Thank you.
That'll be the best decision you could've made,mate!👍
Hello and thank you for the videos. I too run a microhydroelectric plant. I tried a standpipe for some time near the colanda screen intake. I removed the standpipe after a trial run and now let out any air through the highest point of the system, the top of the intake screen. It is always good to get as much head as we can. Moving the intake up the creek as far as you can should help. I think the weir is better than a dam. A dam impounds water and a weir directs water. I love the remotely controlled automated valves and monitoring. I also dig the reciprocal roof in the roundhouse. Cheers.
Living, Learning.....knowing your own unique microclimate and environment is huge! We can all chip in but you are the fella 'on the ground '. Keep trying, you will master it. Happy everything Kris. xxx
A bit like videos online - they work best with a good buffer.. Fill the dam up just enough so that the intake always has a 'lead' on its supply. Now someone's mentioned it, it makes perfect sense, it'd also reduce (if not eliminate) air-intake. Boom, solid water supply for the turgo! :)
To dam or not to dam, we are damned. Can't wait for the dam explainer. 👍
Here I am. By daming the intake you rid yourself of a couple of problems. Get rid of the current screen first as you can then cut the intake pipe at 45 degrees with the longer end up. Insert your screen there. Debris is less of a problem and air cannot get to the intake. I endeavor to satisfy.
@@tworley210 There is another benefit... a small pool would reduce have a much lower flow through the pool.... this in turn allows settling so it will reduce the sediment that is getting into stand-pipe.
@@prygaard Excellent
You should set up a timer on your valve control to shut off two or three valves every couple hours to auto clear the intake.
I'm so jealous, I wish I had a stream. I would LOVE to build a similar setup. You've done amazing work Kris, I can't wait to see what you do next. Thanks for sharing :)
466W is 11kWh per day which is pretty dang good. That's about 1/3 of what I need to run my 3,000 sq foot house in California (with 6 tonnes of A/C) but in your cooler climate where you can use carbon neutral wood burning for heat, I suspect that is more than adequate. My solar system is 6kW which sounds like loads more, but it only runs at that level for about 3 hours. Because hydro runs 24/7 (when it is wet) that means your 466W system produces 1/3 the energy of my 6kW system (i.e. your micro turbine is equivalent to a 2kW solar system in California).
11 kWh/day is more than the average household here in Europe ever needs. If I would not operate servers I'd use ~ 7 kWh/day here at home in late autumn / beginning of winter. If you have the possibilities to build such a hydro turbine, you could pretty much cut your mains power bill to zero - which is insane to me! Sure the turbine and accessories cost a bit but you'd pretty much pay it off within one, maybe two years and be completely independent + CO2 neutral (regarding electricity).
@@TheFlatronify absolutely, but here we have 60 days a year where the temperature is over 100°F (the hottest day this past summer was 117°F) and the vast majority of the electric consumption is A/C. On the plus side we have 320 cloud free days per year, so solar works well.
We have no possibility of micro hydro because we can go years without rain.
I've been on hydro for 30 years, replaced the batteries last year. I have three turbines each generate 950w summer and winter. I use one for my needs and run the house of the batteries, excess load heats hot water then dumps to the grid. The other unit supplies power to my sister about 400 metres away and the third is grid tied so the power company pays me to supply the grid at 13 cents/kwh. Only maintenance is grease the bearings twice a year and check on the inlet screen once a month.
@@markjones4090 Awesome. I bet it rains where you are :-)
@@homomorphic I live in Tasmania and have three creeks on my property. We get on average about 1800mm of rain a year mainly through winter. The creek the hydro runs off originates from a mountain spring at about 1100 metres elevation and permanently flows all year round. As there is no other properties up stream to us we use the creek water to supply the house and water for the rest of the property all gravity fed.
Drill holes in sides of intake to stop the suction from sucking leaves onto the screen intake. I say this without knowing much of your setup. Good luck , keep it up and Thanks for the vids
My suggestion is to make automatic and manual nozzle controller, additionally, If you can get some big pipes (300 / 400) you can also make an water bank. Nozzle controller: 3 waterpump switches, install them in the dam so that when it is rainy all 3 nozzles are active and when water decrease in the dam the nozzle wil automaticly shut down. Water bank: when there is way too much water in dam direct water into the 3/400 pipe for stor age. So when there is litl water in the dam youl have enough water to run at max or longer with only one nozzle. All that can be done by some switches and water barriers. Just an suggestion 😁
Sweet wattage. The guy in Colorado (MrHydrohead) bought the screen you're talking about when he had similar problems at his intake. You'll have to search his site to find the screen as I haven't followed him for a while. Personally, I would submerge the intake so that debris floats over it to the upper outflow of a small dam. You've got plenty of free stone and few bags of portland should see you through the project. If the intake is high enough, even silt will not be a problem. Modern dams put a ninety degree on the intake and put it up to just under the water's surface to avoid silt. Again, marvelous project. I call being out in the rain to work a project, Engineer's Fever.
Only 8 minutes in and thought you might want to take time to sketch out a plan for altering the stream. I mean dig a bypass channel and build a permanent concrete or pvc sluiceway, intake, screed and spillway. Then just block off the bypass channel to be used for maintenance and repairs or upgrades. Just thought I would throw my 2 cents in. Great video and channel.
I’ve mentioned a dam several times myself and the size I figured would be about what you are showing but I was figuring on creating a bit of a reservoir (pool) rather than a chase.
I look forward to your explanation about why a dam is not the way to go.
Hey I love your channel for many reasons. The other evening I spent 14hrs straight watching. Suddenly it was dawn outside, but that didn’t stop me. You probably know this, but one great thing about that polyethylene pipe is that it can be welded (they call it fused) easily. That eliminates fittings and leaves a pretty smooth bore at the joint, perhaps increasing efficiency. There are special welders for this process, which I have not priced.
Great videos, recently found your channel. Though of tossing in My opinion on topic.
My idea is similar to "Hello Friends3 weeks ago
Alright, I'll have a go.
Take a poly 55 gallon drums"
Except for the poly barrel, and the additional debris and rock screening device which eliminates storm flow large rocks and debris from dislodging equipment.
Build a rock structures, rectangular or circular. Top portion covered by 1/2 inch rebar minimal spaced at 1 inches apart. At 1 1/2 inches beneath this top screen having another using 1/4 inch rebar spaced around I/2 inches apart, then adding your fine screen beneath this.
The Rock tower needs to be water tight, as in barrel idea outlet pipe being around 6 inches above the bottom. Near the bottom having draining hole or holes which can be plugged, maybe several small holes or one big hole. When unplugged will flush out fine sediments, keeping the sediment below water turbine feed pipelines inlet.
Key is having this standpipe or tower full of water to give maximum head pressure.
Flow rate from steam, i.e. stream velocity isn't the source of head pressure. The height of water column increases or decreases the head.
Masonry standpipe will have greater durability against the heavy storm flows and large debris and rocks.
We used coanda effect screen for manufacturing brewery equipment. Perhaps you can find out if there is a shop that does the same near you and buy some off cuts from them. Good luck.
Kris sorry you have to do more work, but happy we will get more hydro content!
Hi Kris, I used a tee in a standpipe about 6 inches above the bottom for the standpipe inlet and then an elbow at the bottom for the outlet. Air and anything else that floats didn't get sucked down into the outlet and gives room in the 6 inches for a coarse wire filter. (It probably also helped a lot that my standpipe was 4", a much great area than the 1" inlet/outlets)
First
I have a theory on the fluctuating watts on the Midnite solar classic, mine is fluctuating in the exact same manner and I don't have any bubbles that I know of currently. I suspect it's the MPPT tracking profile constantly fluctuating. Do you close the valves after emptying the system to allow all of the bubbles to foat out of the system? I could imagine a scenario where after refilling a bubble is trapped in a less-steep portion of the penstock by flowing water pushing it down. I recently had some odd behavior after I flushed it where it wouldn't pressurize above 80PSI with it operating, I shut the valve and waited a few minutes which allowed the bubble to float out which fixed the problem.
Hey I commented on old video of yours before I was subbed to you about putting a stand pipe in, and people said not so smart stuff about how it would need to 170 ft
@@rcs368 My system relies on a collection barrel to let bubbles float out before entering the penstock, and I have slope in the penstock all the way to the collection barrel. My velocities are high enough that if a bubble does enter it gets pushed down the penstock with anything over about 10 gallons per minute flow (1/3 system capacity). I know this because if the spring flow is too low I suck air and inadvertantly create a trompe pump with bubbles shooting out of the nozzle. Currently It doesn't operate with less than 10gpm so bubbles getting trapped aren't a concern if they did. A restricting bubble like I mentioned in the first comment would have been a fluke of startup.
And it's 280 feet of head.
@@JoeMalovich I knew it was quite high. Sounds like intake design is sound. There are other things you can do to still generate in low flow flow conditions, such as dropping below your intake and installing an accumulator, with low and high mechanical float switches. Won't get into deep detail, but if you have any interest maybe I could put together a short pdf to upload. I was a pipe fitter/welder for years, and my ideas are based on industry design standards, and while I am not a mechanical engineer, my experience was hand in hand with such engineers. Anyway just a thought maybe help you and others out that love all the content creators doing off grid hydro projects.
wow hey Joe I watched your ten part series a while back. glad you are interested in kris's work!
@@RockMonster1000I've been busy, I don't think kris will mind me linking to my kilowatt turbine project playlist here: ua-cam.com/play/PLDda5L4aJUB8dX8hg4Aqwnq1u5vprKFiu.html
Hey Kris, your a Nature Person so use a Natural filter for your intake. Plant a Reed Bed upstream of the intake to catch all the debris. Hi From Australia.
The term for the screen is welded wedge wire. the wedges are rotated about 5 degrees. I searched for it for a long time and found a supplier in China that finally sent me some for about 120USD delivered. 400x400mm sheet. still to assemble to see how well it works. it seems that's the industry standard for the large installations.
Looking forward to seeing future developments to the system, I find the series fascinating - had no idea such useful power could be made from a stream
Could you reduce the leaves by turning the area behind the sleeper dam into a large settling pond. You could also plant reeds/plants in the pond to catch any floating detritus
One thing to consider on the dam or no dam question is: it will make for great video content!
R1
Try to make it easier to read, remove the bits about baffling etc because they would cause more turbulence than I believe the deflection of debris would help.
R2
Keeping the down and in place
Part A
Some thoughts and ideas for your new intake system:
Build the box with two intakes one on each side.
Make the bottom large enough to provide a place for stones and sand to help weight it down and keep sediment from getting up into the intakes.
The lid hinged one on side and clasped on the other with a small (1/4”) hole or a small gap along the upstream edge to let any air out. This would allow easy cleaning of the inside of the box and the pig to be easily run through the entire length of the system.
The top of the box should be about 2 inches below the top of the damn. The top of the intakes should about 2 inches below the top of the box and the bottom of the intakes about 4 inches or so above the bottom of the box.
If debris should block the intakes, it might be possible to clear by simply shutting the system down briefly.
The box should be made out of stainless steel or other durable material, not wood. It should have a bow like a boat and that can be filled with stone and sand to help weight it down.
In side should have some sort of funneling to take the water from the intake to the pipe with the least amount of turbulence.
Use 4 modified hurricane stakes to help hold it down and in place to it does not cause/allow the piping to slide slowly down hill.
Use some material around the pipe as it goes through the damn to keep any expansion and contraction from damaging the damn.
I will try to expand and clarify and time and health allow as well as adding some sketches.
Part B.
On the second system, you probably mention and got why did not want it separate. Here are some ideas that have already probably been brought up on why to make it a separate system. It would give you a chance to refine your turbine and manifold systems. It would avoid the whole pressure balancing the systems issue. It would provide you a secondary power source should one require extended time to repair. More power for the next building.
I've been wanting to see a small reservoir since you built it!
Maybe if you could find one of those concrete well rings you could put that on the higher ground and bury the intake in the bottom of that thing maybe set in some concrete mixed up, temporarily diverting the water around the inlet structure... The ring is large enough (most are about 3-4 feet in diameter and about 2-3 feet high) to have all the air escape before it can enter into the intake...It also can function as a bit of a buffer...
Like your spring maintenance raising your head increase the pipe sizes at least twice the pipe diameter with the head you will have more volume and head pressure also there by gaining efficiency !!!
SCOTT from N.H.
Long term you're going to need a stone or concrete spillway so the riverbed below the intake pipe doesn't move out of position. It doesn't have to be much, two meters would probably plenty.
Wow that just shows us how a small issue can make a huge impact, so who ever suggested you check that intake /water/air well spotted
@kris , have you considered piping direct from the dam into the top of a 200 litre drum a few feet away. Then the outlet at the base of the drum goes to the turbine. This eliminates any air in the system. This would be especially ideal if you move the dam upstream as you suggested (situate the drum where the dam is currently) as it'll mean you don't need a pipe jointer (and it's added assc friction losses) to extend the pipe.
Also, if you have a data cable (or wireless connection, google HC-12 module) to the drum you can sense when the drum water level is full or low and then instruct the arduino to open or close another jet, so then you are automatically utilising full flow without manual adjustments. I have done something similar on mine whereas a second nozzle is automatically opened/closed when a high draw device like a kettle is running, to help prevent excess battery cycling..
ya man in US Joe Malovich has a half descent solution using a large barrel (as a reservoir) mount your large pipe mid way and set the barrel into stream in front of where you have your current head, a short flume to run into the barrel (maybe stainless, i know you like it), i like his idea for the water to create a mini vortex to suck out the silt, clever stuff, wasn't sure about his overflow, sure it could just run over the top
Could you build a box, or use a large plastic tub, to ensure your inlet is always 100% submerged? The stream can enter the top of the box and the inlet can feed from the bottom or lower side of the box. An angled screen above the inlet could make it self-cleaning and extra water can flow out the downstream side of the box..
All I know about hydro systems is from you and since day one I thought the intake wasnt very efficient but I thought you did it like this to prevent build up of ditritus.
If you put your intake in a small dam, you could add a level sensor so that your controller could monitor the level of water in the dam amd if it sees the water level start to decrease it closes nossles automatically to perfectly balance power generation with the streams flow rate.
well the intake will take water from the top not the bottom the small dam isnt to store water it is to gain enough hight to get the intake box in. Also that would require cable running all the way up to the intake. a far better system would be to measure the pressure at the turbine where there are already cables But i dont want to do that at the moment as it has not been an issue for me.
Love your videos kris, this was very interesting and helpful. Really want to get some land and do the same some time. Keep up the gerat videos!!!
Just an idea: build a Weir Dam just above your intake..... to stop any leaves and sediments from getting to the intake.....
it would probably both look cool and be pretty functional if you made your intake like a concrete dam spillway with a long screen. That way the long intake would compensate for the suction and the total flow would rinse the intake as before.
keep up the good work Kris. Killing it with the Videos atm :) Happy New Year!. from NZ
Just wondering, why would you not route water to a header tank and pipe from there? That would completely eliminate any air intake issues and the header pressure would be 100% constant. Love your videos btw and am subscribed. Thanks :)
I know your on your near your boundary but always thought there was some easy extra head to be had near your intake. Maybe combine the “damn” with a bridge to cross easier and get max head
Look up laminated water to eliminate air in water and thanks for great content!
Automate it friend, have the system run flat out, when it detects a blockage to through the loss in power have it shut down to that one little nozel let the water flush the screen for an hour then it can re-open the other nozels
I have coanda screen pond filter and it does still clog but not as much as mesh. Look up Wisy Vortex rain harvesting filters if you've not seen them? They claim them to be self cleaning and they do seem good in the video demos but not sure if they can handle the flow rates you need.....there used to be someone selling them cheap direct from Germany on ebay but not sure if he's still selling.
A forebay is required after the filter system in order to have the air bubbles escape. Also, you may want to consider using 3d printing for testing a wedge wire (coanda effect) filter system inexpensively.
Monitoring the intake water level using a low power wifi connection with a liquid level sensor can allow you to automate the flow rate.
If the pipe as far as the stand pipe was larger than after then air would become irrelevant as long as the head in the stand pipe was sufficient to prevent air being drawn down. Also if the feed to the stand pipe was a little higher than the drain air would be less likely to pass the stand pipe, pressure would be maintained because the hight of rise in the stand pipe. The stand pipe could be something like a barrel working as an air separator.
Hey Kris, huge fan of the channel, thank you for putting together these videos. Any chance we could get an update soon on your house? How's daily life, behind the scenes video editing, cooking, and stuff like that.
After my last offer I have emailed 2 places in the UK that make coanda screen, but no answer, and probably will be out till first week in January. The Powerspout stuff from NZ would end up with VAT and import duty on it. So £229.96 plus £43 shipping plus another £66.70 for import duty/vat comes to £339, which is a little beyond my generosity! If we can find something around the £200 mark I'd cover it. If another follower lives close to GAP Technology in Nottingham DN22 7PX, they make the stuff there for massive Hydro projects, maybe they could drop in and help a brother out! I think the accelerator plate is important too as it organises the lead in flow to make it more laminar, which keeps the screen clear, and makes the wedges work correctly in the coander screen
I don't know where in Wales you are, but maybe these guys might have something Dulas Ltd, Unit 1 Dyfi Eco Park, Machynlleth, Powys, SY20 8AX www.aquashear.com/single-screens/
Gap is about 30 minutes above me. Iv previously purchased kris’s hoodie(which is still going strong), if any one needs something collecting, give me a holla.thanks in advance
I have just emailed 5 more companies that are closer to me that make these "Wedge Wire screens" as they are called. I suspect businesses that make this stuff will have scrap piles out the back of their unit with loads of off cuts. Going in person and speaking to the lads on the shop floor would probably yield a really nice 400mm x 400mm offcut of some coanda screen material, which would totally sort Kris out for his summer dam intake overhaul. It needs to be made of 22SB or 28SB or 18SB standard wedge wire, with a slot gap around 1.5 to 2mm.
Thank you everyone for helping out and looking in to this for me. very kind.
Hi Kris,
Totally inexperienced comment here so feel free to ignore me. But would it be possible to fashion a kind of water wheel/brushing mechanism above the screen that could continually brush the intake screen?
My thought is that it would use the excess water flowing over the screen but the mechanical action of brushed might help clear the screen automatically?
Just an idea, might be a clear reason why this isn't possible/effective.
Hi Kris if the T on the stand pipe is sitting lower than the pipe either side then the level will rise up the stand pipe an inch or 2 and it should not suck in air.?
Kris if you use sleepers to dam up the water is there any risk of the chemicals in the sleeper leeching into the creek? Just curious what you think. Great video and nice find. Simple adjustments make some decent improvement in power output.
No i will use hardwood durable sleepers that are not treated. there is alot of them around here made from durable hardwoods that are being ripped up and replaced for concrete. I would never put teated wood in the stream.
Kris Harbour Natural Building ah makes sense. Unfortunately for me all the sleepers in the US are treated. Looking forward to the new addition. Love your videos keep up the great work.
Can you tell me a bit about your green grass roof I've been wanting to do that but haven't been able to find any just very simply what was your method
Thanks kris very interesting could you fix the intake on to the rocks at the side in the summer with anchor bolts? I suppose the stream bed will erode away and you will need to compensate for this in a few years time but you could make the holes in the intake slots to allow for adjustments. Don't know much about hydro systems just throwing it out there. Thanks for all the videos in the last year really enjoyed super content well put together 👏👏👏 all the best for 2020🏴
Maybe a 'ski ramp' on the bottom of the intake would still keep the leaves clear but increase the depth on the water on to of the grill.
Would an intake in the shape of a cone solve the leaf problem (the apex pointing upstream)? In the new dam...
excelent vid as usual. seems like you had a nice christmas
is it possible to do like a brushed water wheel over the water intake that cleans itself up. haven't seen anything like this on the net, it might work.
would you gain efficiency/ have less resistance by using lager motorized valves at the manifold box instead of the smaller ones at the nozzles?
Yes but there is a trade off for what is economically viable. those big valves are big money and then the actuators that drive them are £300 each and the gain would be very small. just a few watts for over £1000 worth of parts.
hello kris, I haven't read all your comments, and this may have been answered...aren't you getting water hammer from that corrugated pipe?
so do you think with the damb and the pipe reductions at bottem near turbine corrected you would be in the 500watt range at best ?
Why don't you build a small water dam 1m or 0.5m radius and have the pipe 10cm over the ground to avoid dirt (like you have done to the spring)? And also because is a dam the leaves will go over it.
Would you happen to know the velocity of the water in the penstock?
Disclaimer. Im a marine engineer I have no idea what im talking about with regards to leaves blocking the intake. But im thinking you could scimm the surface of the water for debree (mainly leaves) when there is alot of it and when you run it at 450. I took some time to draw an example imgur.com/212SxUs The leaves would be forced up and over the "roof" bit.
The height of the "scimmer" could be ajustable. To find the sweetspot for this system.
Also im enjoying the content on your channel.
Hi kris, have you thought about installing a pre filter? Something simple to make, where the intake wouldn’t then block up. Hope you had a good Christmas, and all the best for the new year. Thanks as always for the videos.
what is the distance from the intake to turbine? also what is the elevation
I would consider a 2nd turbine maybe convert to dc at the turbine to reduce losses, at least then if one turbine fails there's one still available
Nice demonstration!
What about literally channeling the water (the whole stream intake) into a large 12 -18 inch PVC funnel, where the water will still flow fast but collect enough at the opening that ail will not make its way into the flow, that should speed up the flow and prevent air gap's in the PVC length. With such a large opening a filter or screen to keep out leaves would hopefully not get clogged as much as the smaller opening you have now...maybe 8 to 10 feet of PVC length on a downward slope, having a smooth interior pipe wall should certain speed up the flow, idk. Spitballin ideas
You should build something like you build at your Well at your pond. So se Intake is of the ground, doesn`t get cloaked up and it`s inside the water.
Kris what size mesh do you need as in length x width & hole size?
Just pipe at the highest point down to where the intake is now more Wil be more amps and the excess will kleen it be her !
SCOTT from N.H
Kris wouldn't it clog less with debris if the intake were slightly submerged in a short dam? might help with the air intake too. also maybe a windshield wiper motor attached to a brush to wipe the intake screen once an hour? just a couple of thoughts I had. the hydro system you've designed is absolutely brilliant.I have watched and LEARNED from your vids since you built your house. Thank you for sharing you knowledge. Hello from Las Vegas by the way!
Does a momentary shut down allow the stream flow to clear the intake screen without you having to go near it?
Yes it does. I often do that with the nozzles from the house to clear it. As lon as the pipe has not drained already it works
Get an oil drum and fill with concrete but leaving a void in the shape of a funnel with an inward curving lip,then add a few holes radiating just below the lip so water rotation flings out debris?lol
Could ye put winder wipers to clean the screen on a timer for the blockage ....
Always interesting, go bigger with screen or increase the speed over the colander screen
So if you were to build the baby dam you're going to have the intake at the very bottom then a gap with another exit for water + leaves at the top?
Would like a Spigot type pipe give a smother run to the intake & also filter off debris before it reached the intake?
Hey Kris. Another great video. Could air also be being sucked down your standpipe when running on full chat? A non return valve on the top just in case? Being air, the valve would only have to be tiny and cheap? Just a thought. Jord. High Peak.
So are you going to double the size of the intake, to prevent the 'suck down' issue? i should imagine its more complicated than that. Commented before end!
Just a thought but would you benefit from having your manifold the other way round, meaning inline with the doorway to the powerhouse.
Why don't you control the valves automatically using state of charge and discharge current?
Kris,
Send me a way to contact you, I may have some one way screen that may be some use. I would like to send some pics of what I have with the open % of it as well. I'm not sure if any of it will work for your needs, but would like to send some if it might be useful. FYI it's all stainless alloy sheets, many different varieties.
Brilliant. 👍🏼
Could you move the stand pipe to immediately after the intake, maybe get rid of the air before it enters the pipe? Also, thank you for the variety of videos they are most informative
Could you make a wheel with rubber flaps positioned above the intake to automatically scrape the intake and keep the intake clean?
Could you not put a mesh housing, of some kind, over the intake to minimise leaf and debris blockages and maybe some other mechanical system to clean/clear on the go?
You should take a look at how the Hoover dam takes in water
Love the hydro as always. Have you looked at sieve filter screens. Designed for koi pond sieve filter. Worth a look mate.
Good stuff!
Is that what is called a ‘ramjet’ system ? My neighbor used to have one on his stream
What about putting a screen a foot or so, above the intake, to catch some of the leaves and debris? Then you'd only have to clean it out once in a while versus everyday.
Почему приёмник для воды, сверху сделали без расширения? Вода как будто с воздухом заходит.
Why is the receiver for the water from the top made without the extension? Water as if with air goes.