For those who are wondering about the failsafe: I was testing Stage 1 Failsafe with an aux mode. I didn't realize that if you left the aux mode active for longer than the timeout value, it would fail over to Stage 2 (disarm). I thought it would just stay in Stage 1 until you disabled the aux mode. So after 1 second of Stage 1, it disarmed itself.
2:24 - Kinda looks like NT, Down Under, or over in the country of Georgia - there's a bloke there that does flights over the beaches of the Black Sea, beautiful footage. So, 200mph limit? How does that work for RC model jets with gas turbine? A lot of those can exceed that sort of speed with ease.
Everyone thinks the hobby will be ruined by a broski with an Avata, but this is a fierce competitor. Thanks for the tutorial Mr. Bardwell! I'm going to get to work!
Thanks Joshua for all you do and have done for the FPV hobby. I myself with your help and many others was able to hit allegedly 150MPH constantly and a whooping - 202MPH allegedly top GPS Speed - The year was 2020ish don't quote me, but way before the record was set. This was on a 5" One piece molded carbon frame, 6s power, 2207 4s motors,1300-1600MAU-150C overvolted 6s powerplant. This build was inspired by Stinggys 4s 160mph build. I would have to say the weakest link overall was the batteries (heat) by far, also the negative solder point (heat) on the ESC was melting off, but biggest advice I ignored was to hand balanced bi- props and getting the over all total take off weight correct. This took me alone about 3-5 months to figure out- not to mention $1500 in parts - Hitting 150ish was pretty easy for me, but then like clock work @150ish it would shake apart violently or explode in to fire, fun - fun. The key to breaking the 150 barrier for me was adding weight yep! more weight about .7lbs to 1.2lbs was key here -This happened by mistake, one cold december morning abt 40 degrees F @ 200ft above sea level no wind and the humidity was low. There was a little ice on the grass that morning i headed out with the wrong over volted pre heated battery -it was 2000mau 6s 150c This was all I had -so why not send. The quad didn't shake @ 150/26k ERPMS it took off to 40-45k ERPMS and the sound was indescribable- quite scary and alarming lol. I had people telling me the could hear it a mile away. I was shocked I thought adding weight would slow it down from all the reading and research I did. I have documented the build online so one day I can build another -God willing. I would have to say the key takeaway is focus on flight weight, Props and weather conditions and you will get it for sure. Hope this helps someone get some magic smoke action- it was all worth it to see and hear that kind of power and ability from a cute little RC copter haha.. Funny thought tho I really think its boils down to battery technology that allows this. Duno, but two steps forward one step back is progress don't so give up and you can be $1500 in the hole with memories that will last a life time... Cheers!
Putting a patent on a frame cut out and now not putting out the STL files. Can't tell if hes helping the Hobby or just capitalizing. A 200 MPH Drone for the masses isn't exactly where I'd be going to make the hobby more friendly and less "killy" but yeah, lot's of people will love flying these once.
I wouldn't worry too much, it's not too hard to design a very similar canopy in Fusion and it's even easier to scan the frame parts and order a custom CNC cut of that. Everyone who wants one would be able to build a clone pretty soon, if there's enough interest.
insanely useful content man, just want you to know that i got into fpv literally less than a month ago and today i just got my geprc mark 5 BNF and because of your videos i was able to troubleshoot and find that they shorted a wire on SBUS so i made my own cable, took quad apart, put everything back together and configured everything in BF and was able to get everything up and running smoothly. keep up the good work and your are very much appreciated sir!
Man, this was a good and bad one all at the same time!!. 😮I just wanna tell you that you are the Rain Man of the drone world, the drone savant! I’ve learned so much from you. We all have! Thanks so much for your channel! Keep going!!
A tip if you are trying to squeeze something together like those motors and ferrings is to use a screw longer than you need to bite the threads in a couple of the holes, then start the correct sized screen in the remaining holes and then just remove the oversized screws and replace them with screws of the correct length. Like if 12mm is the right size buit isn't quite reaching because you need to push everything together, use like a 16 on two of the holes first.
Huge fan! Built a tyro 119 with you long time ago, your the only youtube I can rely on to post videos at least once a week always posting important and fun information, thank you so much!
today I learned a 4-in-1 ESC is NOT necessarily using a 4IN1 radio protocol. the 4-in-1 ESC means there are 4 ESCs on the board, as opposed to separate ESCs. whereas the 4IN1 radio is not a ELRS radio, but instead talks on older protocols. So you can have a 4-in-1 ESC that talks to ELRS. Thanks @JoshuaBardwell I did learn something today.
Turn on that ESC telemetry and put the ESC temp on the OSD. it’s going to be super important to know what kinds of speed you can hit before the ESC starts overheating. I’ve had problems around 250F
I remember a guy who made speed runs with quads and the egg was his design for years. I thought his name was Quadripper but it's like the web has been swept clean of him.
Pin removal kit is great to have. They have tips to flip, pry, push all kinds of different pins. They work great and would be a great investment if you did this more than even a couple of times. Some of the kids out there are fairly cheap for what you get.
lol - I did build mine a few weeks back and I had the same motor wire near-snip and cap positioning issue - I sniped my Mipi cable too the first time I closed the top 😅... same props so I used low profile nuts and shout out to Chris Rosser as he sent me stl's for new prop holders that fit the HQ 5.3x8 props - you just have to ask nicely 😃. I am so surprised as how good the GPS reception is with both antennas and vtx literally sitting just under the unit - it is really all about how clear of anything is the GPS antenna view of the sky - lesson learned 😀- also - I fitted a Walksnail camera without problem 😉
@@jiatan_fpv I am running Walksnail (V2 VTX and GPS) and no problem what so ever - solid satellite reception (15+ sats at anytime even whizzing around at 160mph on the first test flight on a very cloudy day) - ua-cam.com/video/K5_ecfz_ZgY/v-deo.html
I'm not going to use the frame that Rosser sent me to help other people clone it. If you spend the money to buy the frame and clone it, that's your call.
Definitely wish the STLs were public, I also landed mine too hard and shattered the bottom shell. I at least asked Brain3D to print them in ASA for the next set of replacement parts I order.
JB, APC also makes some high pitch 5" props similar to the HQ props. 5 x 7.5, 5.25 x 8 and others. I compared to the HQ props and they are a little lighter. Used some on my latest speed record.
I have 2807 1300kv on my 7inch quad. I have 2207 1750kv on my 5inch quad. Edit: I never thought of using a paint brush to check motor direction😅 great method idea!
I was in total ‘awe’ while building a drone on the AOS3.5 frame, after which I decided I probably won’t be building anything else on AOS frames again 😄
@Joshua Bardwell 36:05 you really shouldn't be hot plugging like that, when you hot plug there's a brief moment where vbat/5v and signal is connected, but the GND is not - this would try to pull working current of the device you're plugging in through the protection diodes on the signal wires. That's not good for those diodes or the MCU that the signal wires are connected to. They're certainly not specced to withstand O3 operating current (though they usually survive).
Buy the ISDT K4 Smart charger. Much more expensive but totally worth it. I've used the smaller ones but they really don't work very well for 8s. Getting into 8s is expensive but try it one time and you're addicted.
"I will not tell where this video from... some drone, some speed in some place..." hahaha Thanks a lot for your video! I ordered brotherhobby 2806.5 1920kv and just then found that it's for 4S. Tested it with 4S - and see that they are sloooow. Now I am waiting for 3008, that are also 1900 kv but for 6S. Problem is that they are bigger and I am not sure that frame will support them. Here in Ukraine, we really really need them every day
Honestly, somebody who scans, designs and 3d prints can scan and rebuild the model if they wanted to.. I could probably do that if I had the time and interest in this design…but this is super niche.
A cheap set of fine o ring picks from Harbor Freight are the best for repining connectors. Not the orange handle ones, the ones that look like dental tools.
@@oliverkrause7307 JB pinned the comment about that: "For those who are wondering about the failsafe: I was testing Stage 1 Failsafe with an aux mode. I didn't realize that if you left the aux mode active for longer than the timeout value, it would fail over to Stage 2" And as you may guess it simply was on it's default option - Drop
The yellow GNB 1500mah 8S lihv should also fit at 83x52x38mm, there is also a new cool 2 bay toolkit 8s charger m8d with nice interface and touch screen and a less than 2xAir8 price. shocked about the prints! at at aos site there was a link which said download for the prints so i ordered without prints and when i went to d/l it was only purchase so i cancelled the order and ordered with, im really surprised its not made of TPU, or other very strong material..... really need the STLs.
I'm using those T-Motor 2808 17XX kv as my mountain cruiser. They are incredible motors. I always knew they were capable of much more but 200? --- Maybe I have a winter project.
Yeah - Chris Rosser did help them tune their first iteration of the drone and this is pretty much the base of this one - then they went even quicker with a bigger v2 version - 7inch props with 3115 motors I believe
I NEVER sell STL's. It only takes one buyer putting the files on a sharing site and you never earn another dollar. You ALWAYS get screwed. I'm not aware of any case where a guy hasn't been screwed.
I think that any kind of flying that is videotaped and monetized requires faa part 107. That's weird how restrictive it is without applying for a waiver to prove adequate safety is used.
if u make some photos of the 3d printed part, and add some basic messurements, you could duplicate the part. i could. or just 3d photgraph it. if you print this cone with nylon, it will be much stronger
I still wanna build your freakin drone😂....my new years resolutions is to have 2 JB quads built by yours truly and send them to JB to tell me how I did😊 well....that more of a wish😁✌🏼
Really bummed out you weren't able to get some of this action on video. Let's say you could get the cad files, or design them tyourself, these parts could be made from something like TPU, that would make it much more crash resistant, right? Why wouldn't that work?
Didnt Rosser hinted that iflight would also partner with him to offer a framekit? Since for us in the EU its still a hassle with the customs... Do you know something JB?
too bad the vehicle didn't last. About the motor screw mount, the one that you sourced your 12mm ones and were tightening against plastic part. Not only it's not great that you cannot tighten and that you need loctite, plastic will creep over time. That means, even if you tighten them with some level of compression against the plastic, the screw preload will get looser over time due to plastic creep. This would be a design issue, where you would want a metallic sleeve to limit the compression of the plastic but ensure a tight assembly for the motor. Obviously a large enough head, or washer to capture the plastic part beyond the sleeve outer diameter would ensure the plastic part stays in place properly.
another option is to screw the motor without the plastic, to ensure a tight motor assembly (perhaps with the original screws?). Then have the plastic clip itself on the arms (however as you mentioned you don't have the plastic CAD models, so you cannot modify them unfortunately..)
Get yourself a free version of Solid Edge 2024 CAD Makeredition (aka academic-license, its free) and reverse engineer the printed parts. Its not that difficult, but of course takes some time.
I literally told you in the first 2 minutes of the video what the deal was, and showed you the full throttle runs. I gave you exactly what you wanted in the first 2 minutes. What are you actually complaining about. If you want to watch me build the drone, watch me build it. If you don't, no hard feelings.
A soft material may flex in 200mph winds. Then to check if that’s the case you’d need a high speed camera and testing and iterations of designs (which may need to add weight for stiffness. Or you can just make it a hard shell and move on
17:20 So, if he spent so much time testing & designing this frame, why did he not add a separate screw or two for holding the fairing so people can just mount the motors directly to the carbon fibre with the normal screws? It's not like crashability matters, given that all the 3D printed parts are just gonna explode on the first crash anyway... Or just... use double-sided tape like he did for the other side...
For Us in the Hobby we have been building Toy 🚘 🚤 and ✈️ and been Racing an Flying them as far and Fast as possible for Years. and nobody is going to Tell us Now we can’t do this Anymore. because we need Special Permission from FAA, Government! 🧐
36:30 you can just plug all that stuff in hot? And you’re not worried about frying any of it because you plugged it in hot? I don’t know why, but I always thought that in order to, for example, plug in the VTX to the FC while the FC is powered, that you could easily fry the VTX because you have it a sudden jolt of power? 🤷♀️🤷♀️🤷♀️🤷♀️
I have a very similar configuration but my ESCs died. The ones I used and burned were the Hobbywing 65A and 80A burst but in the OSD it showed 89A and it crashed out of nowhere. There are some ESCs that are the Foxer Reaper 65A and 100A burst. What do you recommend? Jhosua thanks
As those of us that have 3D printers know filaments like PLA, PETG and ABS are fairly brittle and are not suitable for something that is most likely going to have crashes. No way would I buy something made out of those materials unless I had the files to print replacements.
For those who are wondering about the failsafe: I was testing Stage 1 Failsafe with an aux mode. I didn't realize that if you left the aux mode active for longer than the timeout value, it would fail over to Stage 2 (disarm). I thought it would just stay in Stage 1 until you disabled the aux mode. So after 1 second of Stage 1, it disarmed itself.
2:24 - Kinda looks like NT, Down Under, or over in the country of Georgia - there's a bloke there that does flights over the beaches of the Black Sea, beautiful footage.
So, 200mph limit? How does that work for RC model jets with gas turbine? A lot of those can exceed that sort of speed with ease.
Primarily what you want follow or crash intoo?
@@PiDsPagePrototypes They don't have speedometers or a waiver as model planes perhaps.
I thought it was a case of the failing the GPS_RESCUE_MIN_START_DIST or a sanity check failure.
why you didn't have gps rth set? Does this quad have a gps to tell how fast you're going? How does it find its airspeed if not?
Joshua, I will share my 400km/h drone design with you... lets talk ;) and I will make it open for everyone, when we do it together.
Please
That would be amaizing!
8 motors
Do you have a video?
@@chrisbee5481 planning to make one this weekend.
Everyone thinks the hobby will be ruined by a broski with an Avata, but this is a fierce competitor. Thanks for the tutorial Mr. Bardwell! I'm going to get to work!
An injected moulded frame should be made for this. Share the print files, but sell a superior injection moulded version and everyone wins
The cost of tooling for injection molding is very prohibitive given the customer base. The mould itself would probably be 6 digits
@@Silor nop with a 500buck cnc u can make your own
Thanks Joshua for all you do and have done for the FPV hobby. I myself with your help and many others was able to hit allegedly 150MPH constantly and a whooping - 202MPH allegedly top GPS Speed - The year was 2020ish don't quote me, but way before the record was set. This was on a 5" One piece molded carbon frame, 6s power, 2207 4s motors,1300-1600MAU-150C overvolted 6s powerplant. This build was inspired by Stinggys 4s 160mph build. I would have to say the weakest link overall was the batteries (heat) by far, also the negative solder point (heat) on the ESC was melting off, but biggest advice I ignored was to hand balanced bi- props and getting the over all total take off weight correct. This took me alone about 3-5 months to figure out- not to mention $1500 in parts - Hitting 150ish was pretty easy for me, but then like clock work @150ish it would shake apart violently or explode in to fire, fun - fun. The key to breaking the 150 barrier for me was adding weight yep! more weight about .7lbs to 1.2lbs was key here -This happened by mistake, one cold december morning abt 40 degrees F @ 200ft above sea level no wind and the humidity was low. There was a little ice on the grass that morning i headed out with the wrong over volted pre heated battery -it was 2000mau 6s 150c This was all I had -so why not send. The quad didn't shake @ 150/26k ERPMS it took off to 40-45k ERPMS and the sound was indescribable- quite scary and alarming lol. I had people telling me the could hear it a mile away. I was shocked I thought adding weight would slow it down from all the reading and research I did. I have documented the build online so one day I can build another -God willing. I would have to say the key takeaway is focus on flight weight, Props and weather conditions and you will get it for sure. Hope this helps someone get some magic smoke action- it was all worth it to see and hear that kind of power and ability from a cute little RC copter haha.. Funny thought tho I really think its boils down to battery technology that allows this. Duno, but two steps forward one step back is progress don't so give up and you can be $1500 in the hole with memories that will last a life time... Cheers!
That’s the content I wanna see about our hobby. Mad experimental record breaking contraptions crashing into the ground. Well done Bardwell!
Putting a patent on a frame cut out and now not putting out the STL files. Can't tell if hes helping the Hobby or just capitalizing.
A 200 MPH Drone for the masses isn't exactly where I'd be going to make the hobby more friendly and less "killy" but yeah, lot's of people will love flying these once.
I wouldn't worry too much, it's not too hard to design a very similar canopy in Fusion and it's even easier to scan the frame parts and order a custom CNC cut of that. Everyone who wants one would be able to build a clone pretty soon, if there's enough interest.
A friend of mine here in Greece, built an fpv drone that goes 390km/h !!! It was extremely fast !! Mike x fpv ! 💪
insanely useful content man, just want you to know that i got into fpv literally less than a month ago and today i just got my geprc mark 5 BNF and because of your videos i was able to troubleshoot and find that they shorted a wire on SBUS so i made my own cable, took quad apart, put everything back together and configured everything in BF and was able to get everything up and running smoothly. keep up the good work and your are very much appreciated sir!
Bardwell! Absolute legend! He helped me so much (like directly) a few years back. He didn't have to, but he did! Kept me in the hobby as I was stuck!
Man, this was a good and bad one all at the same time!!. 😮I just wanna tell you that you are the Rain Man of the drone world, the drone savant! I’ve learned so much from you. We all have! Thanks so much for your channel! Keep going!!
The second I heard this announced I was like yeah I'm going to get it. Good thing I have a 3D scanner.
Theft. Not cool.
Bending wires pre-tin seems like a pro move!
A tip if you are trying to squeeze something together like those motors and ferrings is to use a screw longer than you need to bite the threads in a couple of the holes, then start the correct sized screen in the remaining holes and then just remove the oversized screws and replace them with screws of the correct length. Like if 12mm is the right size buit isn't quite reaching because you need to push everything together, use like a 16 on two of the holes first.
i love doing repinning and i do it exactly the same as you teaching it.. this is gold for fpv beginners! love it..
Huge fan! Built a tyro 119 with you long time ago, your the only youtube I can rely on to post videos at least once a week always posting important and fun information, thank you so much!
I appreciate your transparency in the beginning of the vid
This style quad was the reason I wanted to know how to flip my yaw and roll sticks via switch when going horizontal flight. Thank you!
Did you figure out how to?
today I learned a 4-in-1 ESC is NOT necessarily using a 4IN1 radio protocol. the 4-in-1 ESC means there are 4 ESCs on the board, as opposed to separate ESCs. whereas the 4IN1 radio is not a ELRS radio, but instead talks on older protocols. So you can have a 4-in-1 ESC that talks to ELRS. Thanks @JoshuaBardwell I did learn something today.
Turn on that ESC telemetry and put the ESC temp on the OSD. it’s going to be super important to know what kinds of speed you can hit before the ESC starts overheating. I’ve had problems around 250F
208mph on mine. South of the border, of course.
It is only 100mph 😏
I always fly my drones out in international waters. I CGI the plants and houses so the footage isn't so boring with only water in the background.
@@ddegn 😅
@@ddegn mmmmmmmhm for sure
Hey, at least we saw it go 120mph, terminal velocity as it fell, lol.
hopefully the terminal velocity of this drone is higher than 120mph lol
@@gameplayer4817Uh yeah...
😂
I remember a guy who made speed runs with quads and the egg was his design for years. I thought his name was Quadripper but it's like the web has been swept clean of him.
Quadmovr?
Oh yea! I remember that guy. Maybe he rebranded or something
Pin removal kit is great to have. They have tips to flip, pry, push all kinds of different pins. They work great and would be a great investment if you did this more than even a couple of times. Some of the kids out there are fairly cheap for what you get.
absolutely must have. under $10 improves your life substantially
I remember your video on the 160mph quad 4 years ago. I actually built one. May have to try this to.
lol - I did build mine a few weeks back and I had the same motor wire near-snip and cap positioning issue - I sniped my Mipi cable too the first time I closed the top 😅... same props so I used low profile nuts and shout out to Chris Rosser as he sent me stl's for new prop holders that fit the HQ 5.3x8 props - you just have to ask nicely 😃. I am so surprised as how good the GPS reception is with both antennas and vtx literally sitting just under the unit - it is really all about how clear of anything is the GPS antenna view of the sky - lesson learned 😀- also - I fitted a Walksnail camera without problem 😉
O3 is very well designed EMI wise, and Matek builds GPS receivers with good noise rejection. Don't try this with a HGLRC GPS :))
@@jiatan_fpv I am running Walksnail (V2 VTX and GPS) and no problem what so ever - solid satellite reception (15+ sats at anytime even whizzing around at 160mph on the first test flight on a very cloudy day) - ua-cam.com/video/K5_ecfz_ZgY/v-deo.html
The way you showed the first flight footage was hilarious 😂 “wtf!? Oh shit!” Great video.
first time i heard bro actually swear like that
You haven't watched enough live streams
Haha yep! Get him and blunty on a rant and just sit back and enjoy lol @MysteryD
FAA: Its 99 mph right?....RIGHT? 🤣
Yes, flying over a miniature model town.
I can replicate the needed stl in days using your broken frame, 😅😊
I'm not going to use the frame that Rosser sent me to help other people clone it. If you spend the money to buy the frame and clone it, that's your call.
I just built one last week! Made my own video too. Pretty cool timing lol
Definitely wish the STLs were public, I also landed mine too hard and shattered the bottom shell. I at least asked Brain3D to print them in ASA for the next set of replacement parts I order.
Another note, I designed prop spinners that fit the steep pitch props, the STL is on Thingiverse if you search AOS HS5
JB, APC also makes some high pitch 5" props similar to the HQ props. 5 x 7.5, 5.25 x 8 and others. I compared to the HQ props and they are a little lighter. Used some on my latest speed record.
I have 2807 1300kv on my 7inch quad.
I have 2207 1750kv on my 5inch quad.
Edit: I never thought of using a paint brush to check motor direction😅 great method idea!
Ty for the Ukrainian flag keyboard. Your videos help a lot if you know what i mean
I was in total ‘awe’ while building a drone on the AOS3.5 frame, after which I decided I probably won’t be building anything else on AOS frames again 😄
late but still love it keep it up bro we need u
A wizard is never late.
@@JoshuaBardwellthe x220 was late. Well, I got mine late anyway. Banggood days lol
@Joshua Bardwell 36:05 you really shouldn't be hot plugging like that, when you hot plug there's a brief moment where vbat/5v and signal is connected, but the GND is not - this would try to pull working current of the device you're plugging in through the protection diodes on the signal wires. That's not good for those diodes or the MCU that the signal wires are connected to. They're certainly not specced to withstand O3 operating current (though they usually survive).
It’s cool to see bardwell do a build.
Buy the ISDT K4 Smart charger. Much more expensive but totally worth it. I've used the smaller ones but they really don't work very well for 8s. Getting into 8s is expensive but try it one time and you're addicted.
13:45 I was just watching a video about spool locks before this one omg it looks so much similar to the spools
Bigger motors are btw also more efficent because the wire in the motor can be thicker so it has less resistance.
Bigger motor are needed to use higer voltage to get high rpm to propel smaller prop. Also big motor wil have lower KV. Ment for lager props.
@@SuperG316 No.
Josh ive found using allen wrenches to line up mounting holes in motors very useful
24:15 Crimping JST connectors is even more fun.
Use a solder iron to plastic weld
"I will not tell where this video from... some drone, some speed in some place..." hahaha
Thanks a lot for your video!
I ordered brotherhobby 2806.5 1920kv and just then found that it's for 4S.
Tested it with 4S - and see that they are sloooow.
Now I am waiting for 3008, that are also 1900 kv but for 6S.
Problem is that they are bigger and I am not sure that frame will support them. Here in Ukraine, we really really need them every day
4s written on them doesn't mean they're not fine with 6s......Just that they were made in an era were 6s was less common
That KV should be fine for 6S
You are so smart how you made this video.
Honestly, somebody who scans, designs and 3d prints can scan and rebuild the model if they wanted to.. I could probably do that if I had the time and interest in this design…but this is super niche.
Finally something interesting
Bardwell does rocket science now 😬
A cheap set of fine o ring picks from Harbor Freight are the best for repining connectors. Not the orange handle ones, the ones that look like dental tools.
My first build was a 3" 6s terror, GPSed it at 144mph.
This is awesome thank you JB!
This vid gonna go viral
What's the thing about betaflight that caused it to crash?
Stage 2 failsafe, as you probably already know )
I do not already know, did the sanity check for GPS rescue fail due to being too close to the home point?
@@oliverkrause7307 JB pinned the comment about that: "For those who are wondering about the failsafe: I was testing Stage 1 Failsafe with an aux mode. I didn't realize that if you left the aux mode active for longer than the timeout value, it would fail over to Stage 2"
And as you may guess it simply was on it's default option - Drop
Should use threaded heated inserts for better screwing 😁
@2:20 I know exactly where that is. A little village in central Mexico. Been there many times and know the place well.
Ahh yes the land of the free, south of the border.
The yellow GNB 1500mah 8S lihv should also fit at 83x52x38mm, there is also a new cool 2 bay toolkit 8s charger m8d with nice interface and touch screen and a less than 2xAir8 price. shocked about the prints! at at aos site there was a link which said download for the prints so i ordered without prints and when i went to d/l it was only purchase so i cancelled the order and ordered with, im really surprised its not made of TPU, or other very strong material..... really need the STLs.
Bummed the stl’s aren’t available for purchase.
I'm using those T-Motor 2808 17XX kv as my mountain cruiser. They are incredible motors. I always knew they were capable of much more but 200? --- Maybe I have a winter project.
The basic design had taken inspiration from the Red Bull Quad that chased down Max's F1 race car at a Track in the UK.
Yeah - Chris Rosser did help them tune their first iteration of the drone and this is pretty much the base of this one - then they went even quicker with a bigger v2 version - 7inch props with 3115 motors I believe
I NEVER sell STL's. It only takes one buyer putting the files on a sharing site and you never earn another dollar. You ALWAYS get screwed. I'm not aware of any case where a guy hasn't been screwed.
Did you Max FPV 391kph it was a crazy video
Set Return ground speed (89.408 meters/second) 😁
I doubt reverse engineering that nose cone would be difficult.
20:53 I hope someone does this as a first build
So AMA pilots fly over 100 mph all the time, you can fly that in a fria under ama cbo rules is my understanding. Those are part107 rules only.
I think that any kind of flying that is videotaped and monetized requires faa part 107. That's weird how restrictive it is without applying for a waiver to prove adequate safety is used.
if u make some photos of the 3d printed part, and add some basic messurements, you could duplicate the part. i could. or just 3d photgraph it. if you print this cone with nylon, it will be much stronger
24:27 Saw needle is the best for me for jst repinning
I still wanna build your freakin drone😂....my new years resolutions is to have 2 JB quads built by yours truly and send them to JB to tell me how I did😊 well....that more of a wish😁✌🏼
16:43 correction you need 12 12mm screws
Looks a lot like the one where someone made one as fast (maybe faster than) a formula 1 car.
Awesome. What's the reason for wrapping the capacitor in electrical tape? 🤔
To keep it from flapping around and breaking off the legs.
Breaking: JB uses 3D printed frame
Men you just have to flip it 90 degree then solder it secondly the speed up is called field weakining
Really bummed out you weren't able to get some of this action on video. Let's say you could get the cad files, or design them tyourself, these parts could be made from something like TPU, that would make it much more crash resistant, right? Why wouldn't that work?
Didnt Rosser hinted that iflight would also partner with him to offer a framekit? Since for us in the EU its still a hassle with the customs... Do you know something JB?
too bad the vehicle didn't last. About the motor screw mount, the one that you sourced your 12mm ones and were tightening against plastic part. Not only it's not great that you cannot tighten and that you need loctite, plastic will creep over time. That means, even if you tighten them with some level of compression against the plastic, the screw preload will get looser over time due to plastic creep. This would be a design issue, where you would want a metallic sleeve to limit the compression of the plastic but ensure a tight assembly for the motor. Obviously a large enough head, or washer to capture the plastic part beyond the sleeve outer diameter would ensure the plastic part stays in place properly.
another option is to screw the motor without the plastic, to ensure a tight motor assembly (perhaps with the original screws?). Then have the plastic clip itself on the arms (however as you mentioned you don't have the plastic CAD models, so you cannot modify them unfortunately..)
That just looks like a rocket haha
Get yourself a free version of Solid Edge 2024 CAD Makeredition (aka academic-license, its free) and reverse engineer the printed parts. Its not that difficult, but of course takes some time.
im glad I didn't sit here for an hour to watch a slow test flight.
I literally told you in the first 2 minutes of the video what the deal was, and showed you the full throttle runs. I gave you exactly what you wanted in the first 2 minutes. What are you actually complaining about. If you want to watch me build the drone, watch me build it. If you don't, no hard feelings.
If someone wanted to, they could make a 3d scan of that nose cone.
Shouldn't the shell be made of pliable material? Or is it also engineered to break?
I'm surprised it isn't TPU like everything else we print to put on quads
A soft material may flex in 200mph winds. Then to check if that’s the case you’d need a high speed camera and testing and iterations of designs (which may need to add weight for stiffness. Or you can just make it a hard shell and move on
Yes PLA sucks but, most people suck at 3D printing and can't even get ABS to work let alone nylon or any other engineering grade materials.
17:20 So, if he spent so much time testing & designing this frame, why did he not add a separate screw or two for holding the fairing so people can just mount the motors directly to the carbon fibre with the normal screws?
It's not like crashability matters, given that all the 3D printed parts are just gonna explode on the first crash anyway...
Or just... use double-sided tape like he did for the other side...
3D scanner and a little time for spare parts.
For Us in the Hobby we have been building Toy 🚘 🚤 and ✈️ and been Racing an Flying them as far and Fast as possible for Years. and nobody is going to Tell us Now we can’t do this Anymore. because we need Special Permission from FAA, Government! 🧐
You can 3d scan it. Put in fusion And recreate it just dont go undermining him lol
36:30 you can just plug all that stuff in hot? And you’re not worried about frying any of it because you plugged it in hot? I don’t know why, but I always thought that in order to, for example, plug in the VTX to the FC while the FC is powered, that you could easily fry the VTX because you have it a sudden jolt of power? 🤷♀️🤷♀️🤷♀️🤷♀️
I recently broke mach 5 with my 3S toothpick
So what happened with the failsafe?
9:02 beeeeeeeeeeppppppp
3:48 share some dimensions and I'll make them available =)
I already have made this drone long before... I've sheared the stl but my comment keeps being deleted 😂
I have a very similar configuration but my ESCs died. The ones I used and burned were the Hobbywing 65A and 80A burst but in the OSD it showed 89A and it crashed out of nowhere. There are some ESCs that are the Foxer Reaper 65A and 100A burst. What do you recommend? Jhosua thanks
What motor, battery and prop did you use?
@ my esc die I use tmotors Velox 2808 1950kv and 6143 prop batt 1850gnb
Good times buddy ... I haven't watched a Joshua Bardwell build video in some time so this was a treat for me.
🔥🔥
20:52
This may, in fact, be my first build
Make the body have dimples all over it like a gulf ball. Should go even faster.
As those of us that have 3D printers know filaments like PLA, PETG and ABS are fairly brittle and are not suitable for something that is most likely going to have crashes. No way would I buy something made out of those materials unless I had the files to print replacements.
It's pointless because no matter what it's made of, if you crash it at 200 mph, it's a goner.
@JoshuaBardwell True, but what if it's a low speed crash while landing?
They should make these BNF. If too many people have these the FAA cant do anything about it.
Is the esc on the wrong side of the bottom plate?? having it on the lower side would solve two problems with your wiring on the esc.
Can it carry about 250g of payload at the cost of some speed? Because that might have it's uses.