Thank you for the video and helping it simplified on camera flash photography to someone who is new. I like how you demonstrated by keeping same camera setting but only adjusting with flash power + and - . This had helped me understand it more clearly now.
So, if I've understood this tutorial, my old Metz flashes are still better because I just input the iso and I can read the aperture I need between say 3-12 meters and the flash will take care of the correct exposure. I was considering buying this Goddax but it seems it would be a step backwards. Am I correct? I do love my tt350 TTL wanted something a little more powerful.
can you do a tutorial if the scene is changing and so are the subjects. For instance in a wedding where the scenes change from the front of the church to near a window, to outside. Also the persons, like the bride with all white dress and then the family members with different color clothes?
After you exposed the background and turned on the flash the live view changed. This is something that also happens in my sony and I really cant see how my exposure is working unless I turn off the flash. The live view "simulates" the flash. Is there a way to stop the camera from simulating the flash in the live view?
You need to go into your flash menu settings and set the flash exposure to ambient only then it won’t adjust the picture and estimate how it would look like with flash. It will only show the ambient exposure without flash even if the flash is turned on
Technically yes you want to try to avoid having harsh lighting but then also no depends on the style of photo you going. If you want the harsh lighting effect. Their isn’t a 100% correct answer all depends on your style of photography and what you try to achieve
If you got the af assist beam switched on in the flash menu, the flash will automatically detect if the af beam is needed for the given scene or not. So it might be that you scene is bright enough and the beam doesn’t come on. Opposite wise if it’s to dark it should come on automatically. Easiest way to find out switch the lights off and see how the flash reacts in a dark environment
@@FlorianFrickel okay thank you. recenlty i searched about that and i saw that for mirrorless cameras this beam doesnt work. but im not sure if its 100% true so thats why i asked
Hi I have question I don’t know but my flash is firing approximately 5th times before camera will do a picture, how I can set up my sony6400 that the flash will fire only once or why the flash is firing multiple times before camera gales the picture
This comes with practice. As more you shoot with flash as more you get used to it and you know what sort of flash power you need for certain situations or camera settings. It’s all about practice. However you could shoot Manual exposure combined with ttl flash and adjust the ttl manual to get a faster exposure Depending on what level of photography you are and how much experience you got under your belt
Still struggling with speedlight on camera flash, . What to do if room has no white wall for bounce ?? -What if room is large such as church? - what if your ambient light suddenly changes? What to change? camera setting or flash setting? Example couple just walking inside from church to outside..? -When to flash directly to the subject ? As more people you need to go back further and increase flash power. It's create unbalance in color temperature 😢😢
- you still can bounce the flash of dark walls keep in mind you might need to increase your power output from your speedlight to balance the lost of light with dark surfaces - if the room is large such as a church yon can either tilt your flash slidly forward or use a bounch accessory or diffusion accessory for the speedlight -if the ambient light changes you either need to adjust the power from the flash or you need to tweak your camera settings. That’s depending on the situation you shoot in. Sometimes is enough to adjust the flash power sometimes you need to adjust the camera settings and flash. If the contrast of lighting is to drastic and extreme you probably need to reset all settings camera and flash to get right exposure again -flashing directly the subject can be done in different scenarios. Depending what look you want to achieve. If you want a harsh light look or even paparazzi style you can flash the subject directly. If you white balance changes you want to set your white balance either to flash or even set a kelvin this should make it also easier to fix or match white balance in the post process
Could be a few reason depending on scenario. Make sure your flash is proper insert into the hot shoe so the flash and camera actually communicating with each other. Make sure your batteries have enough power left. (Your flash needs to be matching for your camera brand) If you would use it off camera make sure your channels/ group is matching
@@guyphoto9437 thank you for your input for the community. Whilst you might have a point. Some people prefer the one style of speedlight over the other style of speedlight. Obviously both will do the job
Which speed light do you prefer round or square ?
I searched for my exact flash and learned that the head can be rotated left and right, no joke thank you for the video!
Glad the video was helpful to you mate. Everyday is a school day 👍
Thank you for the video and helping it simplified on camera flash photography to someone who is new. I like how you demonstrated by keeping same camera setting but only adjusting with flash power + and - . This had helped me understand it more clearly now.
Very helpful! Thank you for this tutorial!
@@emanahmed7285 thanks for the feedback. Glad it was helpful
Many thanks!! Thats got me up and running👍
@@adrongoddard7479 glad to hear it was helpful
Awesome vide Pal 🎉Thank you for the video
Glad you enjoyed it
Many thanks for a great video.
GOD bless you.
Good presentation👍
Thanks, appreicated your feedback. Glad you liked the video
Great video
Thanks Florian
@@TheKhanya1 you welcome mate
This helps! Thank you!
You welcome
Thanks 🙏
Glad it was helpful to you
Well done!
Great overview! Easy to follow as an amateur.
Glad it was helpful!
So, if I've understood this tutorial, my old Metz flashes are still better because I just input the iso and I can read the aperture I need between say 3-12 meters and the flash will take care of the correct exposure. I was considering buying this Goddax but it seems it would be a step backwards. Am I correct? I do love my tt350 TTL wanted something a little more powerful.
can you do a tutorial if the scene is changing and so are the subjects. For instance in a wedding where the scenes change from the front of the church to near a window, to outside. Also the persons, like the bride with all white dress and then the family members with different color clothes?
thanks
@@badr-eddinerachadi2894 you welcome
After you exposed the background and turned on the flash the live view changed. This is something that also happens in my sony and I really cant see how my exposure is working unless I turn off the flash. The live view "simulates" the flash. Is there a way to stop the camera from simulating the flash in the live view?
You need to go into your flash menu settings and set the flash exposure to ambient only then it won’t adjust the picture and estimate how it would look like with flash. It will only show the ambient exposure without flash even if the flash is turned on
@@FlorianFrickel cool, thanks a lot!
thank you
@@NAZRINsmart you welcome
Wouldnt titling the head forward, instead of increasing power, provide better light?
Technically yes you want to try to avoid having harsh lighting but then also no depends on the style of photo you going.
If you want the harsh lighting effect. Their isn’t a 100% correct answer all depends on your style of photography and what you try to achieve
@@FlorianFrickel Thanks
any solution for the beam assistant ?
@@Papastam-hj9od in what way ?
@@FlorianFrickel it doenst work at the af
If you got the af assist beam switched on in the flash menu, the flash will automatically detect if the af beam is needed for the given scene or not.
So it might be that you scene is bright enough and the beam doesn’t come on. Opposite wise if it’s to dark it should come on automatically. Easiest way to find out switch the lights off and see how the flash reacts in a dark environment
@@FlorianFrickel okay thank you. recenlty i searched about that and i saw that for mirrorless cameras this beam doesnt work. but im not sure if its 100% true so thats why i asked
@@Papastam-hj9od I can tell you that the af assist beam works for me with my Sony a7iv plus godox tt685ii. Should work with your camera too tho
Hi I have question I don’t know but my flash is firing approximately 5th times before camera will do a picture, how I can set up my sony6400 that the flash will fire only once or why the flash is firing multiple times before camera gales the picture
So when things are happening and you need good exposure how do you find this quickly without having to take a lot of test photos?
This comes with practice. As more you shoot with flash as more you get used to it and you know what sort of flash power you need for certain situations or camera settings. It’s all about practice.
However you could shoot Manual exposure combined with ttl flash and adjust the ttl manual to get a faster exposure
Depending on what level of photography you are and how much experience you got under your belt
I'm still fighting with my a7r4 flash setting😢
you will get there, learning by doing and figuring the menu out
Same here
Still struggling with speedlight on camera flash,
. What to do if room has no white wall for bounce ??
-What if room is large such as church?
- what if your ambient light suddenly changes? What to change? camera setting or flash setting? Example couple just walking inside from church to outside..?
-When to flash directly to the subject ? As more people you need to go back further and increase flash power. It's create unbalance in color temperature 😢😢
- you still can bounce the flash of dark walls keep in mind you might need to increase your power output from your speedlight to balance the lost of light with dark surfaces
- if the room is large such as a church yon can either tilt your flash slidly forward or use a bounch accessory or diffusion accessory for the speedlight
-if the ambient light changes you either need to adjust the power from the flash or you need to tweak your camera settings. That’s depending on the situation you shoot in. Sometimes is enough to adjust the flash power sometimes you need to adjust the camera settings and flash. If the contrast of lighting is to drastic and extreme you probably need to reset all settings camera and flash to get right exposure again
-flashing directly the subject can be done in different scenarios. Depending what look you want to achieve. If you want a harsh light look or even paparazzi style you can flash the subject directly.
If you white balance changes you want to set your white balance either to flash or even set a kelvin this should make it also easier to fix or match white balance in the post process
@@FlorianFrickel thank you ❤️❤️❤️
Excelent info i bought this flash for my sony6400 exploring
wwwq its good job
My flash isn’t triggering. Any ideas?
Could be a few reason depending on scenario.
Make sure your flash is proper insert into the hot shoe so the flash and camera actually communicating with each other.
Make sure your batteries have enough power left.
(Your flash needs to be matching for your camera brand)
If you would use it off camera make sure your channels/ group is matching
'Frenchel'? Do you mean 'Fresnel'?
Manuel exposed himself to me
I was surprised how much I had to dig to learn this basic functionality. But get a real tripod, man. Jk. Thanks for the tips
Opinions are like a**holes, everyone's got one and most of them stink. Either one will do for on camera flash.
@@guyphoto9437 thank you for your input for the community. Whilst you might have a point. Some people prefer the one style of speedlight over the other style of speedlight. Obviously both will do the job