Adam Ondra vs Tomoa Narasaki | IFSC Meiringen 2019 Bouldering
Вставка
- Опубліковано 12 вер 2024
- IFSC Meiringen 2019 Boulder problems comparison. Adam Ondra vs Tomoa Narasaki.
Music provided by HearWeGo (goo.gl/nDS3zR)
Artist: VonnBoyd
Title: Tonic
Listen on UA-cam: • VonnBoyd - Tonic
The footage in this video falls under fair use law 107 allowing for education, comment and criticism.
It is a US felony to make a false DMCA claim.
Tamoa has such a nice flow to his climbing. Usually when noone does a boulder I bet on him. He just does things differently.
Tomoa : dynos everything
Adam : statics the dynos
1:30 can really see how height affects the moves (170/5'7" vs 186/6'1")
adam got so happy when he saw the hand jam
Tomoa climbs like a cat. Ondra climbs like an alien. 👽 👾
Nice video, great editing! I like Tomoa's smoothness, really slick
Petition for an amine or manga based on this sport, narasaki could be the lead
Amine
Excellent! Great way to view, in fact, I've been looking for just such. Subscribed!
tomoa is dynamic style. its like ninja jumping & flying around.
adam is static style. slowly progress every step and surely real techniques used for real mountain climb. of course you cannot jump like ninja in real outdoor climbing.
even more impressive that Adam get's the dynamics as well
And Tomoa generally looks strong on slabs and other technical problems too. He’s also done the ‘jumping around like a ninja’ thing fairly successfully outdoors iirc
Also worth noting that Adam is like 6 inches taller than Tomoa, which accounts for some of the difference in style on its own
Tomoa flashed a V14 outdoors jumping like a ninja so
@@21nGG Adam flashed 9b+ and he 8b more than 2 grades lower
8B+, but regardless that's not how that works
Adam knew to use the crack on the last problem where Tomoa just went for the dyno to the volume. It pays to climb outside.
Keif why are you so upset xD I mean adam ondra is climbing more often outside than tomoa ^_^ like it has nothing to do with the climbing habits/skills of cameron casey... btw Tomoa has a very unique style of climbing ^^ love it
Tomoa knew you had to handjam the crack. This technique just never appears in bouldering tournaments. And you don't want to hurt yourself trying it out desperately without the practice in it. Honestly, adding this technique without weighing that it is a free win for Ondra was a bit weird.
@@Heyoutub that's an interesting interpretation. From what I saw after that world cup, pretty much everyone agreed that it's a legitimate technique and can come up in any competition at any time. The fact that it rarely does is more of a bias against jams, than setting it once in lord knows how long is "giving Ondra the win". Basically other climbers that focus more on competition haven't been training jams because they rarely have to do them, but maybe it's something they should still be capable of?
Climbing outside rarely involves cracks, but Ondra is such a complete climber that ofc he has done cracks outside
@@Mylada that depends a lot on where and what kind of rock you climb...
There is no comparison. Two totally different body types climbing in different ways that suits them. Static is not better than dynamic and vice versa. Its whatever suits the climber.
That is the point of the comparison
Tamoa is incredibly athletic, but Ondra just seems so much more skilled, precise, and efficient.
But efficiency is not necessary in bouldering... That's why Adam better in lead but not in bouldering
@@noamoz3968 *in Parkour bouldering is Adam worse, in old schol way better
I'm not really sure about the efficient part, after tomoa is getting there faster and expending less energy overall.
@@johnnguyen5681 he's not using less energy at all, that's why he can't do lead as good as Adam does. (among other reasons) his moves are high energy expenditure and more legs down, which is way harder on your stamina. He's more explosive and a better dynamic climber tho.
Depends on what you call skilled. Tomoa is much better in bouldering, Adam barely ever gets to finals these days. Precise? Tomoa is much better at slab climbing as well, but Adam is more composed on the lead wall. In terms of efficiency Id say the way Tomoa is doing it is beneficial to him since he has more power but less endurance. This helps with his climbing style - climbing boulders quickly rather than wasting stamina. On the other hand Ondra has good endurance so he just statics things - works for him for the most part. Its also his outdoor experience making him choose safer moves
Awesome, thanks
great video!
Tomoa is best in bouldering without a word
Tomoa is more impressive in his movement but Ondra is good too
good too 😂😂😂 you are funny!
Adam Kneebar Ondra again😂😂
Ondra could static a waterfall. Insane technique
Adam Ondra tutta la vita
Both are amazing, but my God, it is so good to be tall!
That's what I always say to my friends who are all at least half a foot taller than me 😅
There's a very good reason there's not that many climbers that are really tall, it can completely mess you up on harder boulders that force more strenuous positions.
Most pro climbers are actually average height to shorter than average.
It certainly helps on reachy vertical routes
When you are tall it have some advantage but also disadvantage. Its up to trail.
💟
Na děckych prolézačkách zdánlivě lepší Japonci ale zlato nosí Adam.
Honestly the Japanese dude is working with so much disadvantage and still beat Adam
Ondra is a bum .