I'm always amazed how many different things carpenters can do with a classic simple circular saw. Where furniture makers use like 10 different tools, a carpenter can do it all with the circular saw.
@@TheFunnyCarpenter Well said Sir. I've oft considered volunteering my time at the local High School 'Shop' class (I think they call it 'Woodworking' or 'Career and Technical Education', CTE nowadays) to teach young people the Trade, and share some of the about-to-be-forgotten skillsets....just one of which is 'walking' a circular saw in a circle to create a coved rosette...just sayin'. : - )
i started with a miter saw. made me feel safer knowing saw what attached to something and wouldnt kickback in a random place. I now have the 5.5" ryobi circular saw, and that thing is too weak to kickback aggressively, so i still feel safe-ish using it.
For people like me, maybe you should add a reminder to be aware of where the electrical cord is before you start a cut. I'm not interested in discussing the reason(s) I'm making this comment.
hehe , dont feel bad . i just cut the cord on my brand new angle grinder as i was cutting the top off my oil drum / burn barrel . $15 harbor freight angle grinder. electrical tape worked to fix it .
I agree, Richard's red bar! That's a brand name; the generic name is ... "hive tool"!!! My first paying job was working for a honey farm, and we used that tool for everything.
You can also get a splinter free cut by doing a backwards cut @ 1/16 deep first, then full pass forward. I do this habitually even with track saws. Flawless cuts on both edges, no tape needed...
This saw ua-cam.com/users/postUgkx84IcU5pbZd1Qrz8u4-YRLmJax7kdRi7B comes in handy in many ways. When I had a small (dead) tree fall I started the process of disposal by using this saw and cutting off the small branches. Then slowly work on the small trunk with undercutting and letting it fall down. With many trees on acres of land paying for a tree service can be expensive. It also is nice in that it can be used in hard to get areas like along my creek. It's also safer and quieter than a chainsaw. It obviously can't cut down massive trees but it does work fine for small ones or brush. And of course since I already own a Black
Thanks for the lap demo - I get it now - even tho I've done big notch cuts I've been hesitant to make my own frames using this technique. And probably not the safest but I always clean my notch cuts with a little polish sawing technique altho in this case I'd make a jig for the saw to sit on.
IN my humble opinion the best tool for flatting out the half lap is farriers rasp (Redtang) - Everyone should have a farriers rasp in their toolbox - so very handy, cost effective and quick.
@@TheFunnyCarpenter My grandfather always had a collection of rasps and files in his tool box. After subscribing to “Engles Coach Works” I got reacquainted with their utility for shaping wood. A flat 2” or 2 1/2” wide Farriers rasp is my go to tool for shaping, adjusting, and fitting. Handles for Farrier rasps are much more comfortable than what is sold as a file handle at the hardware store. The weight and length of a Farriers rasp wins the day - no downward pressure required on softwoods and very light pressure on hardwoods. Their length means only a few passes are required. Despite the rough hefty appearance they provide a smooth finish. They are also cordless.
Great video and thx for all the tips. Getting tips from different people is a great way to learn. I would like to know how people can dislike a video like this? They must be just rude stuck up people by nature.
@@TheFunnyCarpenter I find that the best channels are the ones you catch when they are small, but growing, because there is a reason why they are growing….!
Ya I was thinking about it, they actually turned out great! But sometimes it’s just nice to build things with out the mountain of work that is making a good video!
Hello would you make a video about making the stands on which you are resting the wood you cut in the video. By using circular saw off course. Thankx in advance
Nice I did number 1 without watching anything ahead of time. I'm interested in number 2. I've decided to build a shelf that's 16x24 out of 3-2x6's. I was going to just use dowels and glue (I'm experimenting). That type of joint looks really cool and totally unnecessary but may be tough over a 24" edge. I could probably also just rip a 45 along the edge. I don't mind rustic at all but just dowels wouldn't give as smooth as a top.
So, with a cut that must be good both sides, it's still only necessary to tape the top side? Because the bottom side will always be pretty good? Or should the bottom side be taped also to get the best result on both sides?
The lower blade height produces a shallower angle when the blade exits the material on the top side. When the blades all the way down it’s coming out the top at almost 90 degrees.
Thank you for the tips! One thing I haven't seen is how do you properly cut the long side of a door? I need to take off a small amount 0.25" probably, to fit standard doors to my old house. I'd be afraid of doing that with a circular saw. I was thinking potentially a planar, but those things scare me even more than the circular saw. If you ever do a video on this, it would be awesome! Thank you again!
Could you do a frame-less / invisible door install video, at some point down the road? I'm thinking about doing it, just want to see how to, hard it is to install vs a regular door. I want to do every door in my house like that.. jk but there are a couple of rooms where I think it would be great for DIM(y) upgrade project...
Quick question. You said the blade should stick just a bit out of cutting material. What if I've got stair treads with nosing . Obviously the nosing drops down twice of size of the tread. How to set the blade depth when you've got 2 different sizes in one piece of wood?
Questing. I have a 2x6x8. Is there a way to cut it in half corner to corner with any circular saw? So when im done ill have 2 - 8' long triangles with vertical side 2" and the horizontal side 6" then whatever the hypotenuse is. Hope i explained it well enough. I cant seem to get a shallow enough angle with the saw
Additionally, for step #3, you could score your cutline with a utility knife and straight edge. This will also help your material from fraying or chipping.
Blades for a good stationary table saw should be thick and industrial but for a circular saw Diablo blades as a 2 pack are hard to beat since every circular saw blade eventually hits a nail if you are doing renovation work. CMT are hard to get in Canada - not worth the hunt since HD will deliver.
Good beginner video. I must admit to being a tad surprised that right after demonstrating the use of the square to make a straight cut with the saw you don't then use the square to make your initial shoulder cut on the half-lap. Weird that. : - )
@@TheFunnyCarpenter For the record I genuinely meant no disrespect with my comment. It's just being a retired Architect/Custom Home Builder myself having spent 40+ years exercising the Trade, I've got a penchant for noticing the small 'things' and indescrepencies. My wonderful wife makes fun of me all the time about it. Call it a curse. ; - )
I'm going to have to try some lap joints - i didn't realize they were THAT strong. another youtuber made lapjoins by cutting one of 2 2x4s short by 3-4 inches and then doing the same with another pair. then he screwed them together so they made a 4x4 lapjoint. i thought that was pretty clever but i'm questioning if they're as strong as taking material away from a piece.
@@cpzmelbs instead of using one solid piece, he used two pieces but cut one shorter to accommodate the width of the cross piece and then glued/screwed the parts together
@@cpzmelbs yup, I just made a lumber rack where I used segments to hold the arms and then sandwiched it with 2x4s (think 3, 2x4s but the middle one is sectioned so it's plank, arm, plank, arm, etc). Each arm held my full weight and then some. It's loaded up with wood now and still holding steady. :)
You can get a clean cut if you use the saw in the proper direction, with the larger part of the shoe on the portion of the wood stock that you are not cutting off. This way your saw is stable and you don't get that wobble during the cut and then the major wobble at the end, which makes your end cut crooked. Watch your first cut in this video and slow the video and you'll see what I am talking about. When you cut that 45, you had the saw in the proper orientation. Wait. Everything I just said you covered in the half lap section.
WELL you made a few mistakes with cutting the door . #1 place a straight edge on the line you plan to cut and use a new sharp blade in your razor knife to score the line . #2 when you set up your straight edge to cut the door - always do it so that the widest part of the saws base will be on the door = it makes it much easier to keep the saw laying flat on the door ! keep in mind that its much better to spend a few extra dollars on a high quality blade that you will be using for finish work then to cry your eyes out trying to clean up a horrible cut !
THANK YOU, so much for explaining all these tips in detail. I am struggling with my circular saw (Bosch... I am in the UK, so no idea is that makes the slightest difference in models and make of saws). I chose Bosch because I had the range and interchangeable batteries, and accessories, etc. Anyway, I struggle to get a straight cut. I notice now that I am watching you, you have a red line on your saw, that tells you exactly where the blade is. My saw has about 4 different lies and I don't think any one of them are actually accurate, the cut ends up between two of the lines?? 🫣. I sent away for a Bosch track guide, and that went back immediately to Amazon, as it was totally incompatible. Next I sent away for a Linear track guide (rods) that I have to create a plate to place the saw on.... that is going to take a week to get here????☹. So in the meantime I thought I would try out the Trend guide that does not need clamps - this may help as it is the messing about with clamps and measuring out for the difference between the blade and edge, etc. I did actually make a piece of wood that is the exact distance between blade and edge so that I could run that along the side of the wood before cutting to ensure the distance is correct. Let's hope something works, or I will be giving up on this saw for good!!!! (Ps The Trend Guide comes tomorrow). so will be trying that out. if it works I will no need the Linear contraption - which is the last resort.
I'm always amazed how many different things carpenters can do with a classic simple circular saw. Where furniture makers use like 10 different tools, a carpenter can do it all with the circular saw.
It’s cool when you see an old timer with a circ saw doing some amazing things!
It's a lot easier than using a portable table saw. 😳
@@TheFunnyCarpenter Well said Sir. I've oft considered volunteering my time at the local High School 'Shop' class (I think they call it 'Woodworking' or 'Career and Technical Education', CTE nowadays) to teach young people the Trade, and share some of the about-to-be-forgotten skillsets....just one of which is 'walking' a circular saw in a circle to create a coved rosette...just sayin'. : - )
He definitely used more than 1 tool
you can not make furniture (worth a shit) with a skil saw.
Good stuff. Painter's tape has been key for me on door cuts and also laminate countertops for the DIY projects. Keep the tips coming 🙌
Thanks buddy🍻
This vid is making me reconsider my desired miter saw purchase and just put the money to the circular saw to get me started. 👍🏽
Get a worm drive. They are 100x better
i started with a miter saw. made me feel safer knowing saw what attached to something and wouldnt kickback in a random place.
I now have the 5.5" ryobi circular saw, and that thing is too weak to kickback aggressively, so i still feel safe-ish using it.
Great video. 3 simple effective usable tips. no filler useless tips❤
Thank you🍻
Your shop layout is very well done. You should do a video about the design and construction. Would love to have something similar, but I need help.
For people like me, maybe you should add a reminder to be aware of where the electrical cord is before you start a cut. I'm not interested in discussing the reason(s) I'm making this comment.
When anyone asks why I have a roll of electrical tape in every power tool bag or case, I just shrug and say, "national security."
It’s good that you’re still here to NOT tell the tale 👍🏻
hehe , dont feel bad . i just cut the cord on my brand new angle grinder as i was cutting the top off my oil drum / burn barrel . $15 harbor freight angle grinder. electrical tape worked to fix it .
Did this with a hedgetrimmer. now I opt for battery powered lmao
I agree, Richard's red bar! That's a brand name; the generic name is ... "hive tool"!!! My first paying job was working for a honey farm, and we used that tool for everything.
You can also get a splinter free cut by doing a backwards cut @ 1/16 deep first, then full pass forward. I do this habitually even with track saws. Flawless cuts on both edges, no tape needed...
Neat tip, makes sense that the second cut wouldn't tear up as easy with the top channel there.
Excellent tip
what is a backwards cut? you pull the track saw backwards through the cut?
this is the best beginners guide to the CS i’ve seen. well done.
Kind of you to say! Thanks for watching 🍻
thanks man , im a dummy trying to learn all this stuff and these tips sure help me .
I’ll definitely, probably going to keep watching! 😂
Looking good Mr. Bos!
All good information. Thanks very much.
Cheers Pete🍻
This saw ua-cam.com/users/postUgkx84IcU5pbZd1Qrz8u4-YRLmJax7kdRi7B comes in handy in many ways. When I had a small (dead) tree fall I started the process of disposal by using this saw and cutting off the small branches. Then slowly work on the small trunk with undercutting and letting it fall down. With many trees on acres of land paying for a tree service can be expensive. It also is nice in that it can be used in hard to get areas like along my creek. It's also safer and quieter than a chainsaw. It obviously can't cut down massive trees but it does work fine for small ones or brush. And of course since I already own a Black
Really enjoy your channrl and have learned alot of new tips, thank you!
Never thought to use my Richard's Red for scraping. Maybe you could do a video of 100 things to do with the RR
Thanks for the lap demo - I get it now - even tho I've done big notch cuts I've been hesitant to make my own frames using this technique. And probably not the safest but I always clean my notch cuts with a little polish sawing technique altho in this case I'd make a jig for the saw to sit on.
Good video thanks bud
IN my humble opinion the best tool for flatting out the half lap is farriers rasp (Redtang) - Everyone should have a farriers rasp in their toolbox - so very handy, cost effective and quick.
Excellent choice in tools sir
@@TheFunnyCarpenter My grandfather always had a collection of rasps and files in his tool box. After subscribing to “Engles Coach Works” I got reacquainted with their utility for shaping wood. A flat 2” or 2 1/2” wide Farriers rasp is my go to tool for shaping, adjusting, and fitting. Handles for Farrier rasps are much more comfortable than what is sold as a file handle at the hardware store. The weight and length of a Farriers rasp wins the day - no downward pressure required on softwoods and very light pressure on hardwoods. Their length means only a few passes are required. Despite the rough hefty appearance they provide a smooth finish. They are also cordless.
Great video and thx for all the tips. Getting tips from different people is a great way to learn.
I would like to know how people can dislike a video like this? They must be just rude stuck up people by nature.
You aren't living until you run a circ saw while on a ladder! 😮
Over your head, while trying to catch the off-cut!
Don’t forget that shoulder stinger when you’re reaching on the last rung😬🍻
@@MyDIYAdventures and watching the saw (especially a gear drive) land on a concrete pad from 8 feet! Nooooooo!
@@paulsmith9341 I’ve lost 2 Makitas to that death drop!
@@TheFunnyCarpenter dang we’re old😂
Wish they have a circular saw contest for money
Great info, thanks!
Thanks buddy
What a terrific channel.
Thanks for watching it’s appreciated 🍻
@@TheFunnyCarpenter I find that the best channels are the ones you catch when they are small, but growing, because there is a reason why they are growing….!
Good info - thank you!
Was wondering if you were going to show the tape trick for a clean cut. That's saved me so many times
😂I’ve had that trick in a few videos
Great tips 👌
Thanks! Very helpful!
Great video. You should do a video on your shop and how you built those cabinets.
Ya I was thinking about it, they actually turned out great! But sometimes it’s just nice to build things with out the mountain of work that is making a good video!
@@TheFunnyCarpenter understood they do look great
Hello would you make a video about making the stands on which you are resting the wood you cut in the video. By using circular saw off course. Thankx in advance
nice tips on the half lap. subs!
Great video !!!! thanks
Cheers Michael🍻
Good tips
Cheers🍻
Nice I did number 1 without watching anything ahead of time. I'm interested in number 2. I've decided to build a shelf that's 16x24 out of 3-2x6's. I was going to just use dowels and glue (I'm experimenting). That type of joint looks really cool and totally unnecessary but may be tough over a 24" edge. I could probably also just rip a 45 along the edge. I don't mind rustic at all but just dowels wouldn't give as smooth as a top.
So, with a cut that must be good both sides, it's still only necessary to tape the top side? Because the bottom side will always be pretty good? Or should the bottom side be taped also to get the best result on both sides?
Man. I wish I had a good life like that.
2:28 the Essential Craftsman calls this technique the *Polish Plane*
Nice! I usually use that for when i pull back the guard and gently plane stuff down.
I'm already subscribed. I can't subscribe any farther!
Thanks Steve🍻
I get it for safety, and multiple passes, but can you explain why a shallower blade setting in general produces less chip out?
The lower blade height produces a shallower angle when the blade exits the material on the top side. When the blades all the way down it’s coming out the top at almost 90 degrees.
Yes!
Thank you for the tips! One thing I haven't seen is how do you properly cut the long side of a door? I need to take off a small amount 0.25" probably, to fit standard doors to my old house. I'd be afraid of doing that with a circular saw. I was thinking potentially a planar, but those things scare me even more than the circular saw. If you ever do a video on this, it would be awesome! Thank you again!
You could likely do that on a table saw, with a track saw, or a plane (either powered or manual hand plane)
@@robbie6625if you have a long straight edge or a 2x4 then you can clamp and use your circ saw as FC shows.
Could you do a frame-less / invisible door install video, at some point down the road? I'm thinking about doing it, just want to see how to, hard it is to install vs a regular door. I want to do every door in my house like that.. jk but there are a couple of rooms where I think it would be great for DIM(y) upgrade project...
Quick question. You said the blade should stick just a bit out of cutting material. What if I've got stair treads with nosing . Obviously the nosing drops down twice of size of the tread. How to set the blade depth when you've got 2 different sizes in one piece of wood?
Set it too the thicker part.
Questing. I have a 2x6x8. Is there a way to cut it in half corner to corner with any circular saw? So when im done ill have 2 - 8' long triangles with vertical side 2" and the horizontal side 6" then whatever the hypotenuse is. Hope i explained it well enough. I cant seem to get a shallow enough angle with the saw
Thanks Funny Man. How about a shop tour?
For the clean cut, does speed of the cut matter? i.e. is it better to go slower on those?
👍👍👍Thank you
Cheers🍻
The first power saw I bought...and my least favorite. I think I'll need to give it another go.
Best wishes with the saw!
I still cant find the old "2426" model of milwaukee OSM for a "deal" price. I want one though.
Brilliant
Additionally, for step #3, you could score your cutline with a utility knife and straight edge. This will also help your material from fraying or chipping.
Excellent tip
is it possible to lock circular saw into continuously cutting without holding trigger?
Man.... what a show off.
😁👍
I try😂
Ahh the "sexy little flat bar"
It’s curious, I love Diablo blades, but you’re in Canada and not using CMT blades, they weren’t always available in the US, I loved them
I’ve always had mixed results with CMT blades despite the great orange colour. Also availability is sparse.
Blades for a good stationary table saw should be thick and industrial but for a circular saw Diablo blades as a 2 pack are hard to beat since every circular saw blade eventually hits a nail if you are doing renovation work. CMT are hard to get in Canada - not worth the hunt since HD will deliver.
Good beginner video. I must admit to being a tad surprised that right after demonstrating the use of the square to make a straight cut with the saw you don't then use the square to make your initial shoulder cut on the half-lap. Weird that. : - )
Fair point!
@@TheFunnyCarpenter For the record I genuinely meant no disrespect with my comment. It's just being a retired Architect/Custom Home Builder myself having spent 40+ years exercising the Trade, I've got a penchant for noticing the small 'things' and indescrepencies. My wonderful wife makes fun of me all the time about it. Call it a curse. ; - )
I'm going to have to try some lap joints - i didn't realize they were THAT strong. another youtuber made lapjoins by cutting one of 2 2x4s short by 3-4 inches and then doing the same with another pair. then he screwed them together so they made a 4x4 lapjoint. i thought that was pretty clever but i'm questioning if they're as strong as taking material away from a piece.
He did what? That's confusing to read lol
@@cpzmelbs instead of using one solid piece, he used two pieces but cut one shorter to accommodate the width of the cross piece and then glued/screwed the parts together
@@supermodestmouse ahh thanks. I'm interested lol. could you share the title/channel?
Have you happen to try these lap joints since your comment?
@@cpzmelbs yup, I just made a lumber rack where I used segments to hold the arms and then sandwiched it with 2x4s (think 3, 2x4s but the middle one is sectioned so it's plank, arm, plank, arm, etc). Each arm held my full weight and then some. It's loaded up with wood now and still holding steady. :)
@@cpzmelbs it's like this. Except mine is freestanding and not mounted to anything....yet.
ua-cam.com/video/e8gqRuDFaGQ/v-deo.htmlsi=xM_dQgmbJaQmxqpx
what glue is it?
You can get a clean cut if you use the saw in the proper direction, with the larger part of the shoe on the portion of the wood stock that you are not cutting off. This way your saw is stable and you don't get that wobble during the cut and then the major wobble at the end, which makes your end cut crooked. Watch your first cut in this video and slow the video and you'll see what I am talking about. When you cut that 45, you had the saw in the proper orientation.
Wait. Everything I just said you covered in the half lap section.
Do you know the history of the speed square? Albert J Swanson, it’s a short good read
Will check it out
What's the saw model from Makita that you are using?
It’s an old one not even brushless.
@@TheFunnyCarpenter alright! I'm planning to buy a new 18V circular saw from Makita, anyone you would recommend?
First, and no I didn't cut the line to be here
🍻this is cool, thanks for watching
WELL you made a few mistakes with cutting the door . #1 place a straight edge on the line you plan to cut and use a new sharp blade in your razor knife to score the line . #2 when you set up your straight edge to cut the door - always do it so that the widest part of the saws base will be on the door = it makes it much easier to keep the saw laying flat on the door ! keep in mind that its much better to spend a few extra dollars on a high quality blade that you will be using for finish work then to cry your eyes out trying to clean up a horrible cut !
nah.
😎⚒️😎⚒️😎
I can never get a straight cut, even with a speed square haha
Second
Have a great weekend and thanks for watching 🍻
Didn’t follow your own tip on last door cut. Wide plate left hanging
Dude, were you aware your shop got WAY bigger?
I’m out of the family garage!
Well i still have my toes.😅
You could have made this video long and confusing, maybe even boring. Thanks for not doing that.
Funny queer not funny haha
THANK YOU, so much for explaining all these tips in detail. I am struggling with my circular saw (Bosch... I am in the UK, so no idea is that makes the slightest difference in models and make of saws). I chose Bosch because I had the range and interchangeable batteries, and accessories, etc. Anyway, I struggle to get a straight cut. I notice now that I am watching you, you have a red line on your saw, that tells you exactly where the blade is. My saw has about 4 different lies and I don't think any one of them are actually accurate, the cut ends up between two of the lines?? 🫣. I sent away for a Bosch track guide, and that went back immediately to Amazon, as it was totally incompatible. Next I sent away for a Linear track guide (rods) that I have to create a plate to place the saw on.... that is going to take a week to get here????☹.
So in the meantime I thought I would try out the Trend guide that does not need clamps - this may help as it is the messing about with clamps and measuring out for the difference between the blade and edge, etc. I did actually make a piece of wood that is the exact distance between blade and edge so that I could run that along the side of the wood before cutting to ensure the distance is correct. Let's hope something works, or I will be giving up on this saw for good!!!! (Ps The Trend Guide comes tomorrow). so will be trying that out. if it works I will no need the Linear contraption - which is the last resort.
what saw is that?