For anyone watching this, I would recommend one major step before adding insulation here. Jim didn't mention whether he did this, but the ceiling penetrations for lights, duct vents and top of wall penetrations at drywall and for power cables and plumbing vents should be all sealed with fire foam. "Just keep finding more and more items that were not done right when this house was built". Story of my life! I thought maybe my wife and I found the only houses in California and in Kansas that had all of these hidden issues that either were done wrong during original construction, or things just worn out, or done wrong by previous owners or shoddy contractors over the years!
Yes, we noticed an immediate difference In the comfort level of the house. Since we just moved into the home prior to doing the work, we really didn’t have records of previous bills to compare the energy cost difference. Although when we took the same actions at our previous house, we noticed a difference of about 10-15%. Yes, this was indeed a lot of work! After doing the attic insulation, we also insulated the crawl space rim joists. I posted a video for that project too. After completing that, we noticed another huge difference in comfort level for the floor temperature and drafts. Insulation definitely works! Best wishes!
@@jimginnyohio I can also vouch for insulating under the floor in the crawl space. We did that using natural wool rolls, supported by plastic mesh for gardens (stapled to joists). It was hard work, especially for me at 6'5" tall, but made a big difference, given that on the ground floor we just had bare floorboards.
Another fine tutorial. Did you blow the cellulose in yourself, or pay someone to do this job? My house was built in the late 70s. It has many of the same deficiencies you found. Chalk it up to knowledge & code improvements. Thanks to you, I know how to correct the deficiencies my haouse has. Once deficiency i found & intend to fix is using spray foam around all ceiling fan & recessed (“can”) lights. I’ve heard that these holes in the ceiling are another noticeable source of heated / cooled air loss.
@@G.I.JeffsWorkbench Yes, I blew it in myself. Lowe’s and Home Depot will give you free usage of the blower machine when you buy so many bales of insulation. Otherwise, you can rent one if buying a smaller amount. You will need to have someone assist since it’s a two person project. One person needs to feed the machine, while the other person needs to go up into the attic. A few tips: Feed the machine slow to avoid clogging. Wear a throw-away painting suit, goggles, and dust mask since you will get insulation all over you. Feed the machine outside if possible since the cellulose insulation goes everywhere. A garage might be ok…but not in the house. Buy and blow more insulation than you think you will need since it’s a two will settle a lot over time. Enjoy!
Thank you for the compliment! Sorry, I didn't record when I did the roof venting. However, here is the video I watched prior to doing that. This guy was really helpful. ua-cam.com/video/Jrv9myUt9Z4/v-deo.html
@@rogerlegreid5115 I removed about 3 inches of the uppermost layer since it appeared really dirty and then blew new insulation over top of the old stuff that was left.
Question. If you have ridge vent on all of your roof ridge line do you still need the gables when adding more soffit vents? I am planning on doing this project in the near future.
It’s my understanding, you don’t need gable vents if you have soffit vents. I plan keeping mine in place until I replace my roof and have the soffits updated.
@@jimginnyohio thanks for the response. Im trying to figure out if I have to add soffit vents on every space between the trusses. Currently there is a soffit vent every third truss.
Although this video doesn't cover gable vents, I think it does a good job covering that if you have too many vents it could cause problems. ua-cam.com/video/SvFPHpglbXo/v-deo.html
Good videos. But unless the builder in my 12 yr old development missed it, I don't think a fire barrier is needed in the attic, between the above-the-garage space and above-living-space. The entrance to my attic is in my garage, and then the entire attic is accessible (not for any storage - it's all wood trusses from the roof to the ceiling rafters).
Sorry - but that radiant barrier is doing nothing, unless it completely seals the truss area! That 4 foot gap you have in the middle should be framed up and enclosed with the radiant barrier, or you wasted all that time and material putting it in the attic in the first place.
Not so! Since heat rises, the warm air is carried up the rafter area to the ridge vent where it can be exhausted from the attic. The open area allows for the hot air already in the attic to be exhausted. The “chimney effect” pulls cooler air up from the soffit area to cool the roof deck. Since the majority of the roof area is covered with the radiant barrier, it is working exactly as designed….unless you know more about the product that the manufacturer! It is NOT meant to serve as insulation. I believe you are confused about what this product is meant to do.
For anyone watching this, I would recommend one major step before adding insulation here. Jim didn't mention whether he did this, but the ceiling penetrations for lights, duct vents and top of wall penetrations at drywall and for power cables and plumbing vents should be all sealed with fire foam.
"Just keep finding more and more items that were not done right when this house was built". Story of my life! I thought maybe my wife and I found the only houses in California and in Kansas that had all of these hidden issues that either were done wrong during original construction, or things just worn out, or done wrong by previous owners or shoddy contractors over the years!
Great video. Looks like a ton of work but I am sure the peace of mind is worth it. I'm fighting a similar situation in Florida.
Should make a lot of difference in your comfort level
Did you notice a big difference in the energy cost and comfort level of your home? Whew looks like a ton of work! Great videos!
Yes, we noticed an immediate difference In the comfort level of the house. Since we just moved into the home prior to doing the work, we really didn’t have records of previous bills to compare the energy cost difference. Although when we took the same actions at our previous house, we noticed a difference of about 10-15%. Yes, this was indeed a lot of work! After doing the attic insulation, we also insulated the crawl space rim joists. I posted a video for that project too. After completing that, we noticed another huge difference in comfort level for the floor temperature and drafts. Insulation definitely works! Best wishes!
@@jimginnyohio I can also vouch for insulating under the floor in the crawl space. We did that using natural wool rolls, supported by plastic mesh for gardens (stapled to joists). It was hard work, especially for me at 6'5" tall, but made a big difference, given that on the ground floor we just had bare floorboards.
Nice follow up
Another fine tutorial. Did you blow the cellulose in yourself, or pay someone to do this job? My house was built in the late 70s. It has many of the same deficiencies you found. Chalk it up to knowledge & code improvements. Thanks to you, I know how to correct the deficiencies my haouse has. Once deficiency i found & intend to fix is using spray foam around all ceiling fan & recessed (“can”) lights. I’ve heard that these holes in the ceiling are another noticeable source of heated / cooled air loss.
@@G.I.JeffsWorkbench Yes, I blew it in myself. Lowe’s and Home Depot will give you free usage of the blower machine when you buy so many bales of insulation. Otherwise, you can rent one if buying a smaller amount. You will need to have someone assist since it’s a two person project. One person needs to feed the machine, while the other person needs to go up into the attic.
A few tips: Feed the machine slow to avoid clogging.
Wear a throw-away painting suit, goggles, and dust mask since you will get insulation all over you.
Feed the machine outside if possible since the cellulose insulation goes everywhere. A garage might be ok…but not in the house.
Buy and blow more insulation than you think you will need since it’s a two will settle a lot over time.
Enjoy!
@@jimginnyohio wow Jim, thanks for the comprehensive response & tips. Much appreciated!
Did you video tape how to do the venting out to roof? You’re amazing with the details. I’m having all the same issues
Thank you for the compliment! Sorry, I didn't record when I did the roof venting. However, here is the video I watched prior to doing that. This guy was really helpful. ua-cam.com/video/Jrv9myUt9Z4/v-deo.html
Did you remove all the old insulation before you blew in the new insulation or just do a blow over of the existing?
@@rogerlegreid5115 I removed about 3 inches of the uppermost layer since it appeared really dirty and then blew new insulation over top of the old stuff that was left.
Question. If you have ridge vent on all of your roof ridge line do you still need the gables when adding more soffit vents?
I am planning on doing this project in the near future.
It’s my understanding, you don’t need gable vents if you have soffit vents. I plan keeping mine in place until I replace my roof and have the soffits updated.
@@jimginnyohio thanks for the response. Im trying to figure out if I have to add soffit vents on every space between the trusses. Currently there is a soffit vent every third truss.
@@jordanprocunier8228 You probably don’t need them between every truss unless you are seeing signs of moisture in the attic. Good luck!
Although this video doesn't cover gable vents, I think it does a good job covering that if you have too many vents it could cause problems. ua-cam.com/video/SvFPHpglbXo/v-deo.html
👍👍
Good videos. But unless the builder in my 12 yr old development missed it, I don't think a fire barrier is needed in the attic, between the above-the-garage space and above-living-space. The entrance to my attic is in my garage, and then the entire attic is accessible (not for any storage - it's all wood trusses from the roof to the ceiling rafters).
good vidio ,thank you
Sorry - but that radiant barrier is doing nothing, unless it completely seals the truss area! That 4 foot gap you have in the middle should be framed up and enclosed with the radiant barrier, or you wasted all that time and material putting it in the attic in the first place.
Not so! Since heat rises, the warm air is carried up the rafter area to the ridge vent where it can be exhausted from the attic. The open area allows for the hot air already in the attic to be exhausted. The “chimney effect” pulls cooler air up from the soffit area to cool the roof deck. Since the majority of the roof area is covered with the radiant barrier, it is working exactly as designed….unless you know more about the product that the manufacturer! It is NOT meant to serve as insulation. I believe you are confused about what this product is meant to do.
@@jimginnyohio I've been building houses and commercial buildings for 43 years, but ok - it is your time and money, not mine!
Anyone ever have their drywall ceilings fall in along with all of that blown in insulation? It's the scariest thing I have ever seen.
😮