Your video’s are the best and most detailed on UA-cam. Thanks for the great detail on the crf70 project. I rebuilt one entirely by watching your series.
Hi Brian and thank you very much for taking the time to respond. Very much appreciated. Do you have any instruction videos on how to check/adjust the "shift drum bolt" please?
Sure. Here ya go. Also, consult the service manual. It’s an essential tool to have for any motor work. ua-cam.com/video/rSZ4Rj1HJbY/v-deo.htmlsi=jLL2UxKZOisjECp2
Hey My50! That is so great to read! Thanks! One of my primary goals when I make a video is to show others that most jobs CAN be done if you just have the patience (and the tools!) and can follow directions! It never hurts to try! And its so rewarding when it all works out! Thanks for taking the time to share such a nice comment! Keep wrenchin'!
Noted! But, this was a rebuild video, so I try to stay focused to the topic. I cover installation in this video: ua-cam.com/video/rSZ4Rj1HJbY/v-deo.html
Thanks guys! 65 video clips and 23 audio clips to make that dang video! Its funny too, because it only takes about 10 minutes to rebuild one of these clutches!
Ive never wore out one of these clutches and i really roughly ride my Chinese baja dirt runner 70cc. I wore the bearings out of the crankshaft its a 2006 model.
Once i held it wide open doing a burnout for 12 minutes straight split the tire in half and used the same bottom end currently a decade later. They're tough.
I know this video was posted two years ago so I may not see a reply but I will ask anyhow. First great video, I am trying to figure out why the B disc which is the one with material on both sides has to be installed with the chamfer facing down on install. The end tips which have the chamfer do not appear to interact with anything and I have never paid attention in the past so have installed both ways and never noted any adverse effects. I am going to guess no one knows for sure but the book just says so.
Honestly, I have wondered that myself, but I believe it’s less about the chamfer itself, but rather to ensure the engagement surfaces are oriented such that the rotation of the discs direct oil toward the center of the clutch rather than slinging oil outward. So my guess is that the chamfer is essentially an indexing mark to ensure correct disc orientation. Good question.
Thanks Flintstone! Its always so nice to get a kind word. So often lately it seems there are just mean spirited trolls out there trying to find any little thing to criticize! So, thank you for taking the time to spread some good cheer and thank you for watching!
great videos. could you go over the manual clutch on these? I have new clutch that won't disengage even after rebuild and inspection and swapping parts off old clutch. Here's big question> what is supposed to disengage this clutch? on other bikes i see a metal rod putting pressure on clutch. on these bikes the button attacked to spring isn't pressing on anything? is there a mechanism with the oil that creates pressure or releases it? that bearing isn't connected to anything so i really don't get it. thanks so much
Hi Schpoingle! A manual clutch utilize a cable actuated rotating lever and a plunger rod that presses against the bearing on the outside of the clutch housing to introduce a gap between the various clutch plates thereby disengaging the clutch from the the crankshaft. I did a complete video on that here: ua-cam.com/video/eMv0ecUD8bI/v-deo.html
Thank you for that great video and it has inspired me to try to resolve a problem with my grandsons CRF70 though am not sure which part might be at fault. When riding I have great difficulty in changing up gears and really need to pull hard on teh gear lever. Changing down is no issue. Is it a clutch problem do you think please?
I have a 1997 xr70r and the clutch grabs really hard shifting into 1st gear and shifts hard and grabs hard into 2nd and 3rd. Not sure if this is normal, my kids manual clutch 2 strokes shift nice and smooth.
Hi Andrew. To me, the difference is negligible, but they keep the clutch from possibly slipping under heavy load such as a launch or hill climb. The clutch lever action is noticeably increased, which i don’t really like, honestly! But if you are competing, it’s a smart upgrade.
Thank you again Brian. So this bolt is accessible without having to get inside the wet side of the gear box then by the looks of it. The bolt located beneath the rubber shift bolt cover?
It’s not going to hurt to soak the discs, but mostly that is a relic from the past from the time when clutch discs were made of cork. I light coat of oil is fine. If you are building the clutch and will put it in service soon after assembly, you don’t need to soak or oil.
@@brian.d.mobley well is there a intial setting, do i just turn it until i can feel it touching the part the three steel balls ride on, then lock it in place?
Great video do you know if the ct90 plates will fit a ct200 clutch. Trying to rebuild the clutch on my 65 ct200 and can only find ct90 clutch parts. I know they have one less plate than the ct90 clutches but can I get away with just putting in two ct90 plates instead of the three
Hi Alois! I think you are asking about the engagement RPM. I don’t know that figure as I don’t have a tachometer attached to the bike on which this clutch is installed, but it’s pretty low. Id guess less than 1100 RPM’s.
Brian, thanks for the great videos you do! I’m ordering the parts to do a clutch rebuild on my CT70. I want to ask if you recommend soaking the new clutch plates in oil before installing? Any assembly lube on the various parts? Thank you.
Hi Don. You don’t really have to. That process is one that has lingered unchallenged for many years and arose from a need to pretreat clutch shoes when they were made from cork or cork derivative. Still, it doesn’t hurt and may be beneficial if there is a long gap in time from the time the clutch is assembled until it is actually used. Out of pure superstition, I usually at least wipe the faces of clutch discs with motor oil before I install them in a clutch housing.
Appreciate the video. Is this the same or similar to a z50r clutch? My 1993 is painful to put in gear and shift up it’s so stiff - all original parts so guessing it’s just worn
HI Peter. Yes, the clutch is virtually the same. These gearboxes can be hard to shift for a number of reasons, but the most common is worn/bent shift forks, the drum bolt is too tight or the pins in the shift fork are worn out. I have had trouble with these gearboxes myself on many occasions too.
Hi Back the Badge. I am sure I am going to start a lot of controversy with this answer, but here goes.... No. Mannnny years ago friction surfaces were made from cork and required soaking. Cork has long been abandoned as a friction material, but the old soaking tradition didnt die with the passing of cork. I just brush a little oil on the surfaces to make sure they dont (possibly) stick together between the time I build the motor and actually start it (In my case, that can often be a long time). So there you have it - hornets nest now opened as I'm sure there are plenty of people out there who are clinging to the tradition of soaking without understanding the root of its original implementation!
Hey Back the Badge! Good eye! I didnt include that item in the description box. I just added it. I got it on Amazon and its called a "Forney 70822 Yellow Paint Marker." Here is the link if you want to let me get about $.01 commission! HA! amzn.to/3DqSg4v
what are some of the signs of something wrong in the clutch? like my bike slips on 70% of the kicks when kick starting, wondering if that is in the clutch. oh and i cant get it started as well and its all new with the tb 88 upgrade. any help is appreciated.
Hey Jeramiah! The main symptom of the clutch being worn out is that you motor will have inconsistent revs particularly under full power or loads such as climbing a hill. The revs will vary and oscillate. Hope that helps! Thanks for watching.
![АЛАУДИНОВ у Скабеевой: эти их ВСУ нас НЕ ДОГОНЯТ 😁 [Пародия]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/an0anqU4WGQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Your video’s are the best and most detailed on UA-cam. Thanks for the great detail on the crf70 project. I rebuilt one entirely by watching your series.
Oh man! Thanks Adam! So glad my stuff is useful to you! Thanks for the kind comment!
Hi Brian and thank you very much for taking the time to respond. Very much appreciated. Do you have any instruction videos on how to check/adjust the "shift drum bolt" please?
Sure. Here ya go. Also, consult the service manual. It’s an essential tool to have for any motor work. ua-cam.com/video/rSZ4Rj1HJbY/v-deo.htmlsi=jLL2UxKZOisjECp2
Thank you Brian. I will check and adjust as you recommend and hopefully will do the job.
Now i have an idea what my clutch looks like thanks
Hey John! They are pretty simple, generally speaking. Thanks for watching!!
Your videography has gotten really good!!well done😎👌🏻
So has your filming skills! Thanks for the nice comment! :)
Very, very good video! Thank you so much! 👍
Thank you! Glad you found it useful!
Thank you so much,your video helping me to maintance my customer bike.
That’s great! It’s not too hard to do those clutches. Just those tricky little springs!!
Thanks for that detailed video Brian. Give me the confidence to know its a job within my skill set.
Hey My50! That is so great to read! Thanks! One of my primary goals when I make a video is to show others that most jobs CAN be done if you just have the patience (and the tools!) and can follow directions! It never hurts to try! And its so rewarding when it all works out! Thanks for taking the time to share such a nice comment! Keep wrenchin'!
Great video Brian…I wish you would have show putting it back on the bike, and then how to adjust the new clutch once installed
Noted! But, this was a rebuild video, so I try to stay focused to the topic. I cover installation in this video: ua-cam.com/video/rSZ4Rj1HJbY/v-deo.html
RESPECT.... !!!! :) ;) Perfekt...! Ugyanilyen kuplung van a motoromban.. Köszönöm Brian... :)
Thanks for watching hung, Lajos!
Nice video! Thank you!
Glad you liked it!
Very good job !!
Thanks guys! 65 video clips and 23 audio clips to make that dang video! Its funny too, because it only takes about 10 minutes to rebuild one of these clutches!
Ive never wore out one of these clutches and i really roughly ride my Chinese baja dirt runner 70cc. I wore the bearings out of the crankshaft its a 2006 model.
Once i held it wide open doing a burnout for 12 minutes straight split the tire in half and used the same bottom end currently a decade later. They're tough.
I know this video was posted two years ago so I may not see a reply but I will ask anyhow. First great video, I am trying to figure out why the B disc which is the one with material on both sides has to be installed with the chamfer facing down on install. The end tips which have the chamfer do not appear to interact with anything and I have never paid attention in the past so have installed both ways and never noted any adverse effects. I am going to guess no one knows for sure but the book just says so.
Honestly, I have wondered that myself, but I believe it’s less about the chamfer itself, but rather to ensure the engagement surfaces are oriented such that the rotation of the discs direct oil toward the center of the clutch rather than slinging oil outward. So my guess is that the chamfer is essentially an indexing mark to ensure correct disc orientation. Good question.
Really good tutorial, the time and effort taken shines through and kudos for encouraging people to have faith in their own abilities.
Thanks Flintstone! Its always so nice to get a kind word. So often lately it seems there are just mean spirited trolls out there trying to find any little thing to criticize! So, thank you for taking the time to spread some good cheer and thank you for watching!
great videos. could you go over the manual clutch on these? I have new clutch that won't disengage even after rebuild and inspection and swapping parts off old clutch. Here's big question> what is supposed to disengage this clutch? on other bikes i see a metal rod putting pressure on clutch. on these bikes the button attacked to spring isn't pressing on anything? is there a mechanism with the oil that creates pressure or releases it? that bearing isn't connected to anything so i really don't get it. thanks so much
Hi Schpoingle! A manual clutch utilize a cable actuated rotating lever and a plunger rod that presses against the bearing on the outside of the clutch housing to introduce a gap between the various clutch plates thereby disengaging the clutch from the the crankshaft. I did a complete video on that here: ua-cam.com/video/eMv0ecUD8bI/v-deo.html
Thank you for that great video and it has inspired me to try to resolve a problem with my grandsons CRF70 though am not sure which part might be at fault. When riding I have great difficulty in changing up gears and really need to pull hard on teh gear lever. Changing down is no issue. Is it a clutch problem do you think please?
It can be so many things, but the shift drum bolt may be too tight. This is a common reason for the condition you describe.
Tks and respect, good luck !
Thanks Costa!
Hey Brian... Had a few issues that arose I've missed you.
Hey Jim. I’m still around!
I am Pakistani nice video thank you
Glad you found it useful! Thank you.
Very good video, thank you for your help!
Thanks Herman! Glad it helped! Thanks for watching.
I have a 1997 xr70r and the clutch grabs really hard shifting into 1st gear and shifts hard and grabs hard into 2nd and 3rd. Not sure if this is normal, my kids manual clutch 2 strokes shift nice and smooth.
Thanks for the video! Do the HD springs engage harder?
Hi Andrew. To me, the difference is negligible, but they keep the clutch from possibly slipping under heavy load such as a launch or hill climb. The clutch lever action is noticeably increased, which i don’t really like, honestly! But if you are competing, it’s a smart upgrade.
Thank you again Brian. So this bolt is accessible without having to get inside the wet side of the gear box then by the looks of it. The bolt located beneath the rubber shift bolt cover?
You’ve got it! Yes!
Great video!
I got a question tho the clutch plates do you soak them in oil before u install them? Or leave them dry?
It’s not going to hurt to soak the discs, but mostly that is a relic from the past from the time when clutch discs were made of cork. I light coat of oil is fine. If you are building the clutch and will put it in service soon after assembly, you don’t need to soak or oil.
WOW. Amazingly detailed vid!
Thanks Heydon!
Excellent video, thanks
Thanks Goomer! Glad you found it helpful.
what about adjustment after it's all together?
Hi. It’s a semi automatic clutch so it’s non adjustable post assembly.
@@brian.d.mobley well is there a intial setting, do i just turn it until i can feel it touching the part the three steel balls ride on, then lock it in place?
Great video do you know if the ct90 plates will fit a ct200 clutch. Trying to rebuild the clutch on my 65 ct200 and can only find ct90 clutch parts. I know they have one less plate than the ct90 clutches but can I get away with just putting in two ct90 plates instead of the three
Hi Cole. I’m sorry, but I don’t know the answer to that. I’m really not familiar with the CT200 at all.
Good
Thank you!
Hey. I wonder which rmp this clutch connects the rods. :) do you know that?
Hi Alois! I think you are asking about the engagement RPM. I don’t know that figure as I don’t have a tachometer attached to the bike on which this clutch is installed, but it’s pretty low. Id guess less than 1100 RPM’s.
Brian, thanks for the great videos you do! I’m ordering the parts to do a clutch rebuild on my CT70. I want to ask if you recommend soaking the new clutch plates in oil before installing? Any assembly lube on the various parts? Thank you.
Hi Don. You don’t really have to. That process is one that has lingered unchallenged for many years and arose from a need to pretreat clutch shoes when they were made from cork or cork derivative. Still, it doesn’t hurt and may be beneficial if there is a long gap in time from the time the clutch is assembled until it is actually used. Out of pure superstition, I usually at least wipe the faces of clutch discs with motor oil before I install them in a clutch housing.
Appreciate the video. Is this the same or similar to a z50r clutch? My 1993 is painful to put in gear and shift up it’s so stiff - all original parts so guessing it’s just worn
HI Peter. Yes, the clutch is virtually the same. These gearboxes can be hard to shift for a number of reasons, but the most common is worn/bent shift forks, the drum bolt is too tight or the pins in the shift fork are worn out. I have had trouble with these gearboxes myself on many occasions too.
@@brian.d.mobley thank you! Subscribed!
مهو بساب لوم تعشك ادرج وينه
Can I get this kit for a 67-68 honda ct90?
Hi Chuck. The parts in this video weren’t part of a kit, but I’m sure the parts are available to rebuild a CT90 clutch.
Does this same procedure apply for the Lifin 125cc semi auto clutches as well? Are the parts interchangeable?
Hey BTB!! I have not worked on a Lifan clutch so I'm really not sure. Maybe ask the guys at TBoltUSA. Sorry I can't help more.
Do the friction plates need to be soaked in oil for 24 hours before installing them?
Hi Back the Badge. I am sure I am going to start a lot of controversy with this answer, but here goes.... No. Mannnny years ago friction surfaces were made from cork and required soaking. Cork has long been abandoned as a friction material, but the old soaking tradition didnt die with the passing of cork. I just brush a little oil on the surfaces to make sure they dont (possibly) stick together between the time I build the motor and actually start it (In my case, that can often be a long time). So there you have it - hornets nest now opened as I'm sure there are plenty of people out there who are clinging to the tradition of soaking without understanding the root of its original implementation!
What’s the yellow marking tool you use?
Hey Back the Badge! Good eye! I didnt include that item in the description box. I just added it. I got it on Amazon and its called a "Forney 70822 Yellow Paint Marker." Here is the link if you want to let me get about $.01 commission! HA! amzn.to/3DqSg4v
what are some of the signs of something wrong in the clutch? like my bike slips on 70% of the kicks when kick starting, wondering if that is in the clutch. oh and i cant get it started as well and its all new with the tb 88 upgrade. any help is appreciated.
Hey Jeramiah! The main symptom of the clutch being worn out is that you motor will have inconsistent revs particularly under full power or loads such as climbing a hill. The revs will vary and oscillate. Hope that helps! Thanks for watching.
👍👍👍👍👍🥰♥️
Thanks!