I am 62 years old. My grandfather taught me to pack wheel bearings the same way. Only difference, we didn’t have a can of degreaser so we put a little gasoline in a bowl then cleaned out the bearing in the gas. Those were good memories. He taught me how to work on many things. Thanks for the video!
I'm nearing 60 and I did (still do) that the same way. When I know I have a brake or bearing job coming up, I keep soup cans around. Put some gas in them, swirl out the old grease, then blow it all out.
As I was trained several decades ago, Rule 1 is when repairing brakes, whatever you do to one side, do the same to the other side, no exceptions. Second, NEVER clamp a brake hose. There is an inner hose that can be easily damaged if crushed. I have replaced calipers, master cylinders, and bled the brakes many times to stop a brake pull. The problem was a collapsed inner hose. Instead, replace the bad caliper first. Third, when installing axle nuts on taper roller bearings, tighten the nut to fully seat the bearings. Then back the nut off and retighten finger tight. I’ve seen unseated bearings become too loose once the grease heats up. I hope you find this helpful.
I'm barely a shade tree mechanic, I know my limitations. But I love your video's, for 1 you talk to us like we're there with you, 2 you expkain things like you're teaching. It's absolutely awesome! Thank you!
Plus he never loses his cool....on camera. He knows how to drop curses and use slang that can either be cut out, our left in and keep it 100% family friendly.
I watch from Cape Town South Africa and I see the mechanics are the same all over the world, that when we speak we can be real "big" man's language in the shop even though we have not smashed our fingers.
I am so glad that I am not the only person who points at inanimate objects after balancing them precariously on wobbly surfaces and commands then to "STAY".
My Dad used to pack bearings by putting the grease in the palm of his hand ( like you) . Then he would take the bearing and slap it in the grease against his hand, forcing the grease inside, turning the bearing as he filled it. He told me that the mechanics that worked on WWII airplanes did it that way. Great job, Ray!
been forty years since I worked in Sears automotive, but when I saw you pulling out the wheel bearings, my first thought was how much I enjoyed the process of slooping my hand full of bearing grease and packing the bearings. One of my favorite actions. Glad to see you doing it the old way :)
When I push them pistons back, I open the bleed nipples and dump that rusty corroded fluid from inside the steel calipers. Inside of calipers is where most moisture/rust contamination comes from. Changing pads provides an opertunity to flush fluid in the system.
Why do we still use dot3 in the USA,it attracts water and is corrosive compared to dot5 silicone fluid. I changed my old 70 chevelle over to dot5 back in the early 90's and never had another stuck caliper piston ever again.
the only fluids i recommend not changing to other things out side spec are engine oil, trans, and diff other than that i use what i like pwr steering is questionable
The way I was taught many many 30 years ago to pack wheel bearings. Is put a big blob of grease in one hand kind of like you did. But only nibble at the grease blob with the bearing, not smearing it all over your hand. Push straight down on the grease to your hand, nibbling the grease up thru the bottom of the cage, rotate the bearing and repeat until you see grease coming out of the top of the cage. No big mess
I won't just replace one. Caliper for many reasons, along with doing a complete brake flush, this is my option to prevent any problems down the road. I was in this business for well over 40 years, not to mention my clientele which has their family and friends which are 6generations .
Just a tip: If putting new hubs on with new races in them, then you should be putting new bearings in them. Bearings and races develop matched wear patterns and if you put old bearings with new races, or vice verses, you can end up with premature bearing failure.
Interesting...when my dad packed bearings (and had me do it for him), we always pressed the grease in the back groove until you couldn't get any in anymore, and then coated the rollers. For some reason, I always enjoyed packing wheel bearings. Still wondering why they always made the phone ring....
55 years ago I used to pack bearing that way, by hand, as I preferred it to using the grease machine. I knew where the grease was since I hand pressed it into the cage and bearings. I also used the nut on the spindle to remove the inner seal and bearings... works great! Back in the 80's I bought a case of grease from Standard Oil that looked very similar to what you are using here. The stuff was like dog sh*t and you couldn't shake it off. I used it on the farm tractor and trucks. I think I still have 4 tubes left... probably will for a number of years to come as the newer vehicles have sealed tie rod ends and ball joints. For your brake calipers falling, or not wanting them to fall, make an "S" hook out of some 3/16" rod. This way you can hook them onto the spring via a mounting bolt hole... works great! Take care!
You, Sir, are doing an awesome job! I watched a couple videos of yours and have to say, that I'm really well entertained! I don't know what it really is, but it's just so nice to see such an honest and kind person applying some clickage with his wrenches while working out the issue a car have - AND explaining it so well! As a son of a technician and being myself one, I really glad that there's one out there who shows the honest daily work! I'm really glad, that you can find the time to cut and make these videos for us! I really really appriciate that! And again: You're doing a really great job! Btw, I wish you all the success with your home project! Thank you, Sir, and have a great day!
Ray I’ve adjusted front wheel bearings just the way did, until my buddy showed me SKF catalog listing the torque procedure and specifications listed by manufacturer. I never knew there where some many different ways to preload taper wheel bearing. Check it out. You can download it from the SKF website. The version I keep on my phone is from 2014,but I’m sure there is a newer one available. For the expedition your working on here is the Ford procedure listed. “FTN Tighten hub nut to 30 ft-lbs/40 Nm while turning wheel. Back off 2 turns and tighten to 17-24 ft-lbs/23-24 Nm. Loosen nut 180 degrees. Tighten nut to 17 in-lbs/2 Nm” You never know what you don’t know, till you know it. Keep up the great work.
I want to tell you how much I respect your work ethic and skills. I am a master craftsman and have worked for 45 years, the last 30 in an automotive factory. Thank you for your enjoyable videos !
Your Ninja training has served you well, Raymond. The over arm crane technique used to catch that brake caliper was exceptional. Your years in the Brake Cleaner dens have not slowed your abilities. Your master is pleased, you Will avenge his death some day. Continue in ' the.way ' Palmetto Bug.
I like your commentaries and dedication to quality...putting customer first and doing the job right the first time (what my dad told me); I am learning from your videos; thanks
Old school repairs for sure Ray. For me it was exactly the same as you did down to re greasing the bearings by hand and as we call them in Australia, multigrips for taking off the grease cap and hub nut. Top job once again Ray
I really like you and your show. I just wanted to say that what you refer to as a "basket" on a roller or ball bearing is, in the parlance of the bearing folk, called a "cage". Just thought I'd put in my 2 cents. Great video.
Used to replace spherical bearings on a roller. Shaft was 10 bananas and 18 bananas outside. Weighed 150 pounds. You never wanted to have them fall over flat on the floor really hard to pry up.
@@kenore4003 if you have a hydraulic press with enough room and clearance and a helper straight get too parallels put them between the columns and the bearing and press and make sure when that shaft let's go somebody there to balance it if not use a bearing puller by the way I really like bananas or coconuts or pineapples
@@michaelpressman7203 These were on a cylinder that was about 11 feet long and weighed 13,000 pounds. The bearings were taper fit. We had a hydraulic pusher that threaded onto the threads of the retainer nut and were removed by pressure in the taper. It would expand the inner race just enough to pop them off.
@@kenore4003 to be honest my molds used to weigh about 2,000 lb I could manage them on a Ford truck far as anything that big you need a crane and more common sense than I have
Same bearing packing technique Mr. Williams taught me my first year of auto mechanics in 11th grade. Back when you were required to carry a knife to school in case you had to kill a bear coming there in the morning or leaving in the afternoon.
The last time I replaced a caliper on a Ford truck it was in 1977, working on a 1974 F350. Everything was the same save for the ABS sensor, which didn't exist at that time. This design had been around a long time in 1998. Thanks for your informative video. Never mind the trolls. Even my sister-in-law is a vocal expert, never having touched a wrench.
This reminded me of my 1998 Expedition. I bought it new and drove it for 6 years then traded it in at a GMC dealer. About 10 years later, I received a letter form a Sheriff's department along the border with Mexico informing me that they had found 'my' Expedition abandoned and if I didn't come claim it within 30 days they were going to dispose of it. Nope, not mine! I feel sure it was sold without papers, never registered again, then used to run drugs and people across the border for those 10 years. I can only imagine what might be in that vehicle. I wouldn't dare go anywhere near it.
My mom had same thing with her ford exploder lol kid never tagged it and it died , got impounded and mom had to pay $2,000 for a truck she sold for $400
Actually changed the front disc brakes on my 2002 Ford Ranger a few months back. I was taught how to use a packer and the "put a glob of grease in your palm and slap the bearing into the grease, rotating it till you've shoved what you can in, then slather the rollers before making sure you get the other end as well, rinse and repeat" method. Didn't change the calipers, as it wasn't exactly necessary, otherwise it's the same exact process. Kind of a pain to find this process so well documented, even here on UA-cam.
Since your installing new rotors and bearings, the races in the new rotor may not be completely seated. So it is recommended to torque the nut on the spindle down to 100 ft lbs to insure the races are bottomed out. Then loosen the nut to the just past finger tight.
Where I went to school they had a series of films they would show in shop class that talked about proper tool use with a character called Primitive Pete.
I agree proper tool usage and machine in the shop or in the workplace or at home is a good thing you can hurt yourself and somebody real fast real quick real bad
It’s amazing to see a truck built in 1998 in a serviceable condition like this. Here in Ontario, everything built in 1998 has long since rotted and become razor blades. Most things built in 2008 are the same. The salt just kills cars.
Musclecar123, yea, I used to live in Toronto, Ontario ,you are so right but now I live in Kelowna B.C. We don't use salt on the roads out here. We use sand, so our cars stay shiny and new !!!! Yea it has something to do with saving the fish . I guess the fish don't like salt on their food.
Love the way you launched those bearings into the grease pot! I always have a chuckle watching your videos, whether it’s the sound effect when the brake cleaner appears, the do-do-do’s, or the British accent when you summon “Peter...?” Keep it up dude, very entertaining 👍
My first job was at a garage and I learned how to pack wheel bearings. Sometimes we packed them in our hand or we had a bearing packer, I was taught that trick of yanking the wheel off to remove the seal and inner bearing. Tighten the spindle nut then back it off a bit and slip the cotter pin in, lotsa fun memories.
Watching this video reminded of my days working at O'Reilly's . During the summer we would turn 4-5 sets of rotors per day and 90% of the time they still had the inner bearing and seal attached to the rotor . We learned how to remove the seals from the inside and not damage them .
@@peted5217 FLACKING? I think you are searching for "flaking"- Tapered roller bearings can last many decades if they are well lubricated. It is really only necessary to replace the seal. Back in the day before cheap rotors from China, nearly every auto parts store turned rotors, but that was probably before your time.
Lol you can do it carefully from the outside, it’ll take more time then it’s worth. There’s a way to do it from the inside? Like tap it out with a drift or something? I’d just put the spindle nut back on after taking the outside bearing off and pull the rotor off. Replacing the inner bearing usually anyway so
@@oldschool1993 probably was since only made ASE Master in 1978. Towards the end of career, noticed metal flakes in most frt wheel brngs during brake svc. Era of lo cost rotors was becoming vogue then . Most had nu races, so made reasonable sense to put in nu brngs.
the earlier expeditions up to 2004 were very reliable in my opinion, we had a 1999 make it to 394K on the original transmission, rear end, and a/c system, the engine died at 289k due to neglect, the 2nd used engine died at 394k due to neglect
Ray, may I comment on bearing lubrication ? Many years ago I was maintaining a factory and got SKF in (for free) to give us a course in bearing maintenance. Amongst the gems were greasing the things. 50% of bearings fail as they are under greased and 50% because they were overlubricated. Grease is 90% oil, so an overlubed bearing can overheat causing the viscosity of the oil drop lowering its effectiveness and hence early failure.. If you look the bearing up on the SKF website, it gives the amount of grease required.. I hope this helps. Love the vids and running commentary.
My first job in industrial maintenance was going around on Monday with an oil can and a grease gun it is very important also the last place I worked at the maintenance man drove me crazy because it didn't get done all the time
@@benurr720 Timken, SKF, NTN are all world class products. You are quite correct to pack the bearings. As to a failure, I can't comment, but I can assure you when we moved to a strict Predictive Maintenance Programme coupled with correct bearing install and lubrication, our bearing related failures dropped to almost zero in a 1M sq.ft Plant
@@michaelpressman7203 You have my sympathy. Your employer was wasting your time. A Lube tech needs to be properly trained, equipped and scheduled, with a supportive Management.
@@MrRunner companies nowadays think they're paying for skilled maintenance is a waste of money but ask all the people that went down an airplanes because a part didn't work right you figure it out
@Graham Miller Consider that a car with 24 inch diameter tires (kinda small but giving you the benefit of the doubt) those wheels will rotate about 845 times in one mile so at 60 mph they will be rotating at 845 RPM. Which is pretty slow compared to industrial spindle speeds. Consider also there is astill quite a bit of air space in those front automotive wheel spindles even with packing extra grease in there. Also consider that, being tapered roller bearings the grease gets move out of the bearings by centrifugal force. All that said... boat trailer wheel bearings are often packed completely full of grease (grease fittings in the bearing caps) and sometimes it is under pressure ("bearing buddies")to keep the water out. Boat trailers also tend to have pretty small tires so they spin faster. They DO fail and fail often but 99.9% of the time it is due to corrosion from water getting in to the bearings.
I agree, adjustable plier work in only 1 direction. The guy who taught me mechanical work showed me the correct way. He also taught me if you are using a crescent wrench you are using the wrong tool for the job.
I still daily drive my 97 expedition I bought from a friend in 2001. It's a little shy of 300k as well. Runs and drives remarkably well for an old girl. Unbelievably reliable, back when "quality was job 1". Still has the original starter, water pump, exhaust system and the AC still works, Replaced the schrader valves and topped off the refrigerant last year.
Love the way you show this type of work is not 3 easy steps. Every job is a new adventure. Thanks for doing these and thanks for being real and not an edit king.
As to adjusting wheel bearings. Every one has their own method. The trick is to get the right preload. A torque wrench is an accurate method. If the split pin holes in the nut ,locking cap do not line up, back off until the holes line up DO NOT tighten the nut.
Doing spindle type brakes is an art form and something of a lost art at that. I was about 13 when my dad taught me how to do it. Glad you had the opportunity to demonstrate the process.
Good job . Only thing different i would have done would be to use a bungee cord to support the caliper and i would have used copper or brake grease on the pad rears and tabs to stop any squeals.
Yea I was scratching my head at the lack of brake grease as well...... everyone has their style I guess. I'm the same though, shims and pad backs get brake grease
When I was taught to pack bearings the grease must come out the inner side. If it didn't come out you weren't done. That's why I enjoy the packing tool, cut just drop it in and push.
At the GM dealership I worked at we had to rebuild the calipers on every brake job due to the heat from braking causing the rubbers to become hard on the slides and caliper piston oring. Caused almost zero comebacks. The only calipers we did not rebuild were the rear calipers with the integrated parking brake in the caliper. By the time you were replacing brake pads on those, the retractors were frozen or had come apart depending if the customer used the emergency brake or not when parked.
He was going to use a backhoe on the weekend I understand that feeling of power but man he works hard all week he needs a break hey take it easy ray you're a good guy
Watching some of your routine maintenance videos regularly is great. Small new items come up that are helpful. I've gained the confidence to do a lot more on my vehicles after watching most all of your videos. Great content and many jobs well done. Thank you!
Yes the pliers being used incorrectly bother me as a long time plumber I see plumber use them wrong and ruin the teeth as well as applying teflon tape incorrectly!
Man we're talking about automotive mechanics and all the great things raiders and all you guys keep going on about is a pair of pliers hey take the fires and get a grip for yourself bye
Banter makes the day go by. We used to say to the parts manager. "Go order the wrong parts and type yourself a memo or two. It's all part of the grease monkey game. Great videos Ray.
Hello been watching most of your videos and I like the way you do things I'm an old-time mechanic I made it three years old done a lot of mechanic in and a log truck driver but I must say I was a little bit disappointed in the way you packed those wheel bearings you need to go on the big side and work them back and forth on the the grease in your hand until it comes out the little side this is the only thing I would like to see you change of course that's up to you I think you are an excellent mechanic keep up the good work
PS His glove wash dirty and as packing rolled the bearing at the dirty tip of his gloves finger area,. Never wore gloves and washed hands before putting the grease in the palm of your hand.
Yes Sir, the grease should go into the larger end and get pushed through the bearing until it comes out of the smaller end. Any grease monkey can confirm that !! Ray is doing it bassackwards here.
YES the pliers thing does bother me. It's like someone using a crescent wrench wrong. What's wrong with people, haha. I do love your brake cleaner method and choice of drama music. You are very entertaining and patient. Keep up the good work and forward "click".
another excellent how to video, Ray's the best at sequencing how to dismantle and put back together brakes and rotors, and throwing advice of do's and don'ts,thanks Ray 🤟
Love seeing work on the older vehicles. Had a 2000 Expedition and did the brakes on it a few years ago before I eventually sold it. Brought back some memories of that vehicle.
Knipex, Channel Lock and similar pliers with the jaws set at an angle to the handles DO have a right and wrong way to apply them. The outer jaw pulls the nut/bolt surface tighter into the pliers. The jaw opening should always face left when tightening and right when loosening. Love your videos!
yes they do have a right and wrong way, the question is "how OCD are you" though, when it bothers you that it's done the wrong way in a situation where there's almost zero load on it and it works just fine either way. The answer is of course "yes it does bother me, OCD and proud!"
@@SebBrosig The same applies to adjustable wrenches ('Crescent Wrenches'). I have many, from 3" to 24" long, but I rarely use them, since I have actual wrenches and sockets to use. The adjustable wrenches, like pliers, are designed to have the torque applied in one direction,. Watching tools being used incorrectly has nothing to do with OCD. It is more like, "Wow, this person is an idiot".
This brings back memories of my 1999 Expedition. Looked just like the one from the video. Was definitely an upgrade from my 1989 Ford Bronco II I got in ‘92 as a graduation present.
@@michaelpressman7203 As the pads are worn down, the pistons move further out, holding more fluid in the caliper and taking from the master cylinder. It goes back in the master cylinder when the pistons get pushed in, unless the master cylinder is closed and the fluid has nowhere left to escape but the other pistons.
Just for reference here in the UK the disposable type pin as in this video is a split pin, the reusable type pin is an R clip because its shaped a bit like a letter R and a cotter pin is the type with a wedge cut into one side of it as used to secure the crank arms onto the bottom bracket shaft on an old school bicycle.
Your technique of reinstalling the rotating assembly is almost exactly as my own. I was always taught to tighten the bearing to a light-torque preload while rotating and then back off about 1/4 turn. But unlike your description, I feel a very very slight click as I move the assembly laterally. This leaves the bearing an ever-so-small amount of room to expand with heat and still not bind the bearing. Although I've done it this way for 30 years, I'm now curious if my school of thought has been passed by without my notice. What do others think about my final preload procedure?
Have you ever thought about using an angle grinder to take off the rust band on a rotor (if you're replacing it anyway) so the caliper will slide off easy? (Just thought of it myself)
So easy to press pistons back into the caliper using a C clamp before even attempting to remove the caliper assembly. (You probably shouldn't be working on brakes if your first thought was to use a grinder on them)
@@bushmaster2936 the pistons came out, good luck getting them back in. I had it happen on my blazers rear discs (bought it like that) The piston decided to break in half rather than go back in place. Had to replace the entire caliper
@@bushmaster2936 also he's talking about the video you didn't watch obviously. Piston came out and if it happens good luck getting em back in. Pistons do go back in easy if you maintain your vehicle properly lol.
Ray, you are a remarkable smart and talented guy. Always facinating to watch and learn even if I will never do 99.999999% of this stuff myself. My days of doing oil changes, carb rebuilds, tune ups are way in my rear view mirror.
Good morning Ray, thanks for another great video. As usual I always read all the comments and some of them make me laugh. Even though I've done quite a few brake jobs and it amazes me that you were able to get a caliper for that truck first try LoL. Anyway with the way things are now a days times are tough as far as $ is concerned people are having a hard time making ends meet so anyone commenting on changing both sides of everything just don't get it. You do excellent work and at times you above and beyond. That shows me just what type of human being you are💯. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and expertise. God bless you and your family 🙏. Stay safe and healthy young man you're an example of a true American 🇺🇸🇺🇸💪💪✌️✌️
I am 62 years old. My grandfather taught me to pack wheel bearings the same way. Only difference, we didn’t have a can of degreaser so we put a little gasoline in a bowl then cleaned out the bearing in the gas. Those were good memories. He taught me how to work on many things.
Thanks for the video!
I'm nearing 60 and I did (still do) that the same way. When I know I have a brake or bearing job coming up, I keep soup cans around. Put some gas in them, swirl out the old grease, then blow it all out.
As I was trained several decades ago, Rule 1 is when repairing brakes, whatever you do to one side, do the same to the other side, no exceptions. Second, NEVER clamp a brake hose. There is an inner hose that can be easily damaged if crushed. I have replaced calipers, master cylinders, and bled the brakes many times to stop a brake pull. The problem was a collapsed inner hose. Instead, replace the bad caliper first. Third, when installing axle nuts on taper roller bearings, tighten the nut to fully seat the bearings. Then back the nut off and retighten finger tight. I’ve seen unseated bearings become too loose once the grease heats up. I hope you find this helpful.
I'm barely a shade tree mechanic, I know my limitations. But I love your video's, for 1 you talk to us like we're there with you, 2 you expkain things like you're teaching. It's absolutely awesome! Thank you!
Well said....
I think that's what makes his channel grow. I'm too old to do my own work, but I still enjoy his channel,
I used to race with quite a few shade tree mechanics on dirt track you can learn a lot of good old simple tricks with simple tools and simple minds
well said and i needed this video about a week ago
Plus he never loses his cool....on camera. He knows how to drop curses and use slang that can either be cut out, our left in and keep it 100% family friendly.
I watch from Cape Town South Africa and I see the mechanics are the same all over the world, that when we speak we can be real "big" man's language in the shop even though we have not smashed our fingers.
I am so glad that I am not the only person who points at inanimate objects after balancing them precariously on wobbly surfaces and commands then to "STAY".
Def not the only one, Its the equivalent of smacking a strap and saying that's not going anywhere lol.
Same here, I also often find myself commanding things to “come out” and “I will win” among other things lol
Well you have to tell it to stay otherwise it's going to fall.. lol 😆
I like to command computers and machines to obey me... The command to stay also is a favorite of mine, at times. You're definitely not the only one.
@@Nathan-vb6ny true dat! 😆😆😆
My Dad used to pack bearings by putting the grease in the palm of his hand ( like you) . Then he would take the bearing and slap it in the grease against his hand, forcing the grease inside, turning the bearing as he filled it. He told me that the mechanics that worked on WWII airplanes did it that way. Great job, Ray!
That's the same thing I was taught by a WW2 veteran. I absorbed a lot of knowledge from that man.
Same method with my dad from B-17s to postwar cars and big trucks.
Me too
Same here.
I learned a great deal from the old vets, MUCH more packing bearings and turning wrenches!
been forty years since I worked in Sears automotive, but when I saw you pulling out the wheel bearings, my first thought was how much I enjoyed the process of slooping my hand full of bearing grease and packing the bearings. One of my favorite actions. Glad to see you doing it the old way :)
"go send some faxes and order the wrong parts." love it lol
When I push them pistons back, I open the bleed nipples and dump that rusty corroded fluid from inside the steel calipers. Inside of calipers is where most moisture/rust contamination comes from. Changing pads provides an opertunity to flush fluid in the system.
Great idea. Also prevents overflowing reservoir
That’s how I was taught. I had a large C-clamp to compress the pistons while they were still on the car.
Why do we still use dot3 in the USA,it attracts water and is corrosive compared to dot5 silicone fluid. I changed my old 70 chevelle over to dot5 back in the early 90's and never had another stuck caliper piston ever again.
@@kskoog2019 that how I do brake with c clamp
the only fluids i recommend not changing to other things out side spec are engine oil, trans, and diff other than that i use what i like pwr steering is questionable
The advantage of your vlogs is that they are not boring, wonderful humor.
Im so happy you brought back the sound effect when you bring out the brake cleaner! Lol
Competing with SMA for sound effects. LOL
The way I was taught many many 30 years ago to pack wheel bearings.
Is put a big blob of grease in one hand kind of like you did.
But only nibble at the grease blob with the bearing, not smearing it all over your hand.
Push straight down on the grease to your hand, nibbling the grease up thru the bottom of the cage, rotate the bearing and repeat until you see grease coming out of the top of the cage. No big mess
I won't just replace one. Caliper for many reasons, along with doing a complete brake flush, this is my option to prevent any problems down the road.
I was in this business for well over 40 years, not to mention my clientele which has their family and friends which are 6generations .
Just a tip: If putting new hubs on with new races in them, then you should be putting new bearings in them. Bearings and races develop matched wear patterns and if you put old bearings with new races, or vice verses, you can end up with premature bearing failure.
Interesting...when my dad packed bearings (and had me do it for him), we always pressed the grease in the back groove until you couldn't get any in anymore, and then coated the rollers. For some reason, I always enjoyed packing wheel bearings. Still wondering why they always made the phone ring....
No kidding, when I put new bearings on the trailer it seemed like the phone never quit ringing
Or just in time for Mom to holler out the back door " Dinner time!!! "
As far as I was taught, that keeps you from over filling the bearing.
55 years ago I used to pack bearing that way, by hand, as I preferred it to using the grease machine. I knew where the grease was since I hand pressed it into the cage and bearings. I also used the nut on the spindle to remove the inner seal and bearings... works great! Back in the 80's I bought a case of grease from Standard Oil that looked very similar to what you are using here. The stuff was like dog sh*t and you couldn't shake it off. I used it on the farm tractor and trucks. I think I still have 4 tubes left... probably will for a number of years to come as the newer vehicles have sealed tie rod ends and ball joints. For your brake calipers falling, or not wanting them to fall, make an "S" hook out of some 3/16" rod. This way you can hook them onto the spring via a mounting bolt hole... works great! Take care!
You, Sir, are doing an awesome job! I watched a couple videos of yours and have to say, that I'm really well entertained!
I don't know what it really is, but it's just so nice to see such an honest and kind person applying some clickage with his wrenches while working out the issue a car have - AND explaining it so well!
As a son of a technician and being myself one, I really glad that there's one out there who shows the honest daily work!
I'm really glad, that you can find the time to cut and make these videos for us! I really really appriciate that! And again: You're doing a really great job!
Btw, I wish you all the success with your home project!
Thank you, Sir, and have a great day!
Honest mechanic? Ive never met one.
Ray
I’ve adjusted front wheel bearings just the way did, until my buddy showed me SKF catalog listing the torque procedure and specifications listed by manufacturer. I never knew there where some many different ways to preload taper wheel bearing. Check it out. You can download it from the SKF website. The version I keep on my phone is from 2014,but I’m sure there is a newer one available.
For the expedition your working on here is the Ford procedure listed.
“FTN Tighten hub nut to 30 ft-lbs/40 Nm while turning wheel. Back off 2 turns and tighten to 17-24 ft-lbs/23-24 Nm. Loosen nut 180 degrees. Tighten nut to 17 in-lbs/2 Nm”
You never know what you don’t know, till you know it.
Keep up the great work.
That was the most epic matrix catch ever
That was heck of a caliper catch.
Ray you my freind should be sponsored not by a single brake cleaner company, But the entire industry Worldwide!
He sure goes through a lot!
@@judih.8754 that he does!
I want to tell you how much I respect your work ethic and skills. I am a master craftsman and have worked for 45 years, the last 30 in an automotive factory. Thank you for your enjoyable videos !
I have a friend who took a 1997 Ford F-150 to 320,000 miles. Timing chain wore out and the trans was slipping a little so he sold it as a parts truck.
Many things on the interwebs bother me, but you sir, are an absolute joy to the senses, continue at will.
Handy Pro-tip guys - it's possible to use brake cleaner for cleaning brakes. Learn something new every day!
Your Ninja training has served you well, Raymond. The over arm crane technique used to catch that brake caliper was exceptional. Your years in the Brake Cleaner dens have not slowed your abilities. Your master is pleased, you Will avenge his death some day. Continue in ' the.way ' Palmetto Bug.
May the force be strong with you young Raymond
5:11 WOW nice catch!
Ray, its very therapeutic watching someone else doing a brake job! done thousands b4 i retired😊😊👍👍
Nice that the new rotors came with races in them already. When I was young we bought new bearings and races with new rotor's.
Some hubs come pre packed with bearings and grease
@@richardmarshall1883 I guess it depends on what you buy . I was talking back in the 70s,and what my father had taught and showed me .
I remember putting out a racist you had to be real careful that you didn't get him cockeyed and in them behind and don't use a big hammer
I like your commentaries and dedication to quality...putting customer first and doing the job right the first time (what my dad told me); I am learning from your videos; thanks
First gen expeditions and 10th gen f150s are some of the best trucks Ford ever built!
“Anything’s a hammer.” Sage words for life!
Old school repairs for sure Ray. For me it was exactly the same as you did down to re greasing the bearings by hand and as we call them in Australia, multigrips for taking off the grease cap and hub nut. Top job once again Ray
You are correct on the usage of a pair of pliers.
Hey guys how many people are going to be talking about a pair of pliers their pliers they're not my chrometers it's okay get over it
I really like you and your show. I just wanted to say that what you refer to as a "basket" on a roller or ball bearing is, in the parlance of the bearing folk, called a "cage". Just thought I'd put in my 2 cents. Great video.
I had to remind myself you're in Florida. I'm so used to having to wire wheel or sandblast my caliper brackets with every brake job.
I painted mine right so it look like I have them high dollar calipers
Nice to see this 98 expedition still on the road oldie and a goodie great video as always @Rainman Ray's Repairs
I have a 03 expedition lifted on 35s original engine and trans. This truck just will not die. Been the best vehicle I’ve owned honestly
Hell, a '98 is a new vehicle in my neighborhood.
It's nice to watch someone else struggle with brakes. Hammer is always the answer.
Ford wheel bearing in the 90's and 2000's are so easy
As a bearing aficionado, I love me some bearings. That taper roller bearing is right up my wheelhouse!
haha, cylinder go speen.
Used to replace spherical bearings on a roller. Shaft was 10 bananas and 18 bananas outside. Weighed 150 pounds. You never wanted to have them fall over flat on the floor really hard to pry up.
@@kenore4003 if you have a hydraulic press with enough room and clearance and a helper straight get too parallels put them between the columns and the bearing and press and make sure when that shaft let's go somebody there to balance it if not use a bearing puller by the way I really like bananas or coconuts or pineapples
@@michaelpressman7203 These were on a cylinder that was about 11 feet long and weighed 13,000 pounds. The bearings were taper fit. We had a hydraulic pusher that threaded onto the threads of the retainer nut and were removed by pressure in the taper. It would expand the inner race just enough to pop them off.
@@kenore4003 to be honest my molds used to weigh about 2,000 lb I could manage them on a Ford truck far as anything that big you need a crane and more common sense than I have
Same bearing packing technique Mr. Williams taught me my first year of auto mechanics in 11th grade. Back when you were required to carry a knife to school in case you had to kill a bear coming there in the morning or leaving in the afternoon.
No problem to take apart a brake caliper! I do that all the time and cleaning and replace the rubber seal.
Nobody rebuild stuff anymore but I do
The last time I replaced a caliper on a Ford truck it was in 1977, working on a 1974 F350. Everything was the same save for the ABS sensor, which didn't exist at that time. This design had been around a long time in 1998. Thanks for your informative video. Never mind the trolls. Even my sister-in-law is a vocal expert, never having touched a wrench.
This reminded me of my 1998 Expedition. I bought it new and drove it for 6 years then traded it in at a GMC dealer. About 10 years later, I received a letter form a Sheriff's department along the border with Mexico informing me that they had found 'my' Expedition abandoned and if I didn't come claim it within 30 days they were going to dispose of it. Nope, not mine! I feel sure it was sold without papers, never registered again, then used to run drugs and people across the border for those 10 years. I can only imagine what might be in that vehicle. I wouldn't dare go anywhere near it.
same shit happened to me years ago...LOL
Where's your sense of adventure?
Wise choice sir. I wouldn't have anything to worry about if I were you. Be safe.
My mom had same thing with her ford exploder lol kid never tagged it and it died , got impounded and mom had to pay $2,000 for a truck she sold for $400
cops: come get your car
you: you mean the one i sold and have papers proving its at least not been mine for a decade?
Actually changed the front disc brakes on my 2002 Ford Ranger a few months back. I was taught how to use a packer and the "put a glob of grease in your palm and slap the bearing into the grease, rotating it till you've shoved what you can in, then slather the rollers before making sure you get the other end as well, rinse and repeat" method.
Didn't change the calipers, as it wasn't exactly necessary, otherwise it's the same exact process. Kind of a pain to find this process so well documented, even here on UA-cam.
Since your installing new rotors and bearings, the races in the new rotor may not be completely seated. So it is recommended to torque the nut on the spindle down to 100 ft lbs to insure the races are bottomed out. Then loosen the nut to the just past finger tight.
Correct. It's called pre-loading the bearings. I'm surprised Ray didn't do this.
Where I went to school they had a series of films they would show in shop class that talked about proper tool use with a character called Primitive Pete.
I agree proper tool usage and machine in the shop or in the workplace or at home is a good thing you can hurt yourself and somebody real fast real quick real bad
It’s amazing to see a truck built in 1998 in a serviceable condition like this. Here in Ontario, everything built in 1998 has long since rotted and become razor blades. Most things built in 2008 are the same. The salt just kills cars.
Worse is Ohio, all the creeks are fed by open coal mines and the water is acidic, very very acidic.
@@Kenoscope Does that kill the fish in the creeks?
Ray never would have gotten that brake line nut to have come off that easy up here after so many years. Probably be still fighting it!
Musclecar123, yea, I used to live in Toronto, Ontario ,you are so right but now I live in Kelowna B.C. We don't use salt on the roads out here. We use sand, so our cars stay shiny and new !!!! Yea it has something to do with saving the fish . I guess the fish don't like salt on their food.
5:55 really like those Harbor Freight brand Knipex pliers lol
Love the way you launched those bearings into the grease pot! I always have a chuckle watching your videos, whether it’s the sound effect when the brake cleaner appears, the do-do-do’s, or the British accent when you summon “Peter...?” Keep it up dude, very entertaining 👍
My first job was at a garage and I learned how to pack wheel bearings. Sometimes we packed them in our hand or we had a bearing packer, I was taught that trick of yanking the wheel off to remove the seal and inner bearing. Tighten the spindle nut then back it off a bit and slip the cotter pin in, lotsa fun memories.
Watching this video reminded of my days working at O'Reilly's . During the summer we would turn 4-5 sets of rotors per day and 90% of the time they still had the inner bearing and seal attached to the rotor . We learned how to remove the seals from the inside and not damage them .
Why bother. They should be replaced along with brngs that are usually 'flacking'
@@peted5217 FLACKING? I think you are searching for "flaking"- Tapered roller bearings can last many decades if they are well lubricated. It is really only necessary to replace the seal. Back in the day before cheap rotors from China, nearly every auto parts store turned rotors, but that was probably before your time.
Lol you can do it carefully from the outside, it’ll take more time then it’s worth. There’s a way to do it from the inside? Like tap it out with a drift or something? I’d just put the spindle nut back on after taking the outside bearing off and pull the rotor off. Replacing the inner bearing usually anyway so
Does anybody turn rotors anymore I don't know
@@oldschool1993 probably was since only made ASE Master in 1978. Towards the end of career, noticed metal flakes in most frt wheel brngs during brake svc. Era of lo cost rotors was becoming vogue then . Most had nu races, so made reasonable sense to put in nu brngs.
the earlier expeditions up to 2004 were very reliable in my opinion, we had a 1999 make it to 394K on the original transmission, rear end, and a/c system, the engine died at 289k due to neglect, the 2nd used engine died at 394k due to neglect
Ray, may I comment on bearing lubrication ? Many years ago I was maintaining a factory and got SKF in (for free) to give us a course in bearing maintenance. Amongst the gems were greasing the things. 50% of bearings fail as they are under greased and 50% because they were overlubricated. Grease is 90% oil, so an overlubed bearing can overheat causing the viscosity of the oil drop lowering its effectiveness and hence early failure..
If you look the bearing up on the SKF website, it gives the amount of grease required..
I hope this helps. Love the vids and running commentary.
My first job in industrial maintenance was going around on Monday with an oil can and a grease gun it is very important also the last place I worked at the maintenance man drove me crazy because it didn't get done all the time
@@benurr720 Timken, SKF, NTN are all world class products. You are quite correct to pack the bearings. As to a failure, I can't comment, but I can assure you when we moved to a strict Predictive Maintenance Programme coupled with correct bearing install and lubrication, our bearing related failures dropped to almost zero in a 1M sq.ft Plant
@@michaelpressman7203 You have my sympathy. Your employer was wasting your time. A Lube tech needs to be properly trained, equipped and scheduled, with a supportive Management.
@@MrRunner companies nowadays think they're paying for skilled maintenance is a waste of money but ask all the people that went down an airplanes because a part didn't work right you figure it out
@Graham Miller Consider that a car with 24 inch diameter tires (kinda small but giving you the benefit of the doubt) those wheels will rotate about 845 times in one mile so at 60 mph they will be rotating at 845 RPM. Which is pretty slow compared to industrial spindle speeds. Consider also there is astill quite a bit of air space in those front automotive wheel spindles even with packing extra grease in there. Also consider that, being tapered roller bearings the grease gets move out of the bearings by centrifugal force. All that said... boat trailer wheel bearings are often packed completely full of grease (grease fittings in the bearing caps) and sometimes it is under pressure ("bearing buddies")to keep the water out. Boat trailers also tend to have pretty small tires so they spin faster. They DO fail and fail often but 99.9% of the time it is due to corrosion from water getting in to the bearings.
I agree, adjustable plier work in only 1 direction. The guy who taught me mechanical work showed me the correct way. He also taught me if you are using a crescent wrench you are using the wrong tool for the job.
300k on the clock?! That expedition has been well cared for. Kudos to the owner.
I still daily drive my 97 expedition I bought from a friend in 2001. It's a little shy of 300k as well. Runs and drives remarkably well for an old girl. Unbelievably reliable, back when "quality was job 1". Still has the original starter, water pump, exhaust system and the AC still works, Replaced the schrader valves and topped off the refrigerant last year.
Love the way you show this type of work is not 3 easy steps. Every job is a new adventure. Thanks for doing these and thanks for being real and not an edit king.
Seriously, the break clean scare music is the best!
Genuinely laughed at “This place would run better if nobody worked here.“
Same here
As to adjusting wheel bearings. Every one has their own method. The trick is to get the right preload. A torque wrench is an accurate method. If the split pin holes in the nut ,locking cap do not line up, back off until the holes line up DO NOT tighten the nut.
that 98 is a better vehicle than ALL the newer ones combined.....its a keeper for sure
Doing spindle type brakes is an art form and something of a lost art at that. I was about 13 when my dad taught me how to do it. Glad you had the opportunity to demonstrate the process.
Good job . Only thing different i would have done would be to use a bungee cord to support the caliper and i would have used copper or brake grease on the pad rears and tabs to stop any squeals.
Yea I was scratching my head at the lack of brake grease as well...... everyone has their style I guess. I'm the same though, shims and pad backs get brake grease
My partner refuses to use brake grease while I use tf out of it 😂
Bare metal on metal is never good.
Learned a trick from the folks at Brembo. Use something to hold the brake pedal down an inch. Nothing will drain from the lines.
When I was taught to pack bearings the grease must come out the inner side. If it didn't come out you weren't done. That's why I enjoy the packing tool, cut just drop it in and push.
Steve, there's a tool for that??? Looks fairly simple to make a tool. Is the tool worth the money?
@@jaydegelder2964 yes Amazon has them inexpensive
At the GM dealership I worked at we had to rebuild the calipers on every brake job due to the heat from braking causing the rubbers to become hard on the slides and caliper piston oring. Caused almost zero comebacks. The only calipers we did not rebuild were the rear calipers with the integrated parking brake in the caliper. By the time you were replacing brake pads on those, the retractors were frozen or had come apart depending if the customer used the emergency brake or not when parked.
Ray have a great day.. hope you get to R&R today. And that was relax and recuperate. Stay safe and be well
Well, he said he was landscaping this weekend so I can guarantee you there wasn't much room for R&R. When it comes to landscaping, you're never done!
You know wives see R&R as Repair and Repaint, right?
@@Kenoscope Hahahahaha....it's a no-win situation
He was going to use a backhoe on the weekend I understand that feeling of power but man he works hard all week he needs a break hey take it easy ray you're a good guy
"Very very tight squeeze" the best kind of squeeze
Watching some of your routine maintenance videos regularly is great. Small new items come up that are helpful. I've gained the confidence to do a lot more on my vehicles after watching most all of your videos. Great content and many jobs well done. Thank you!
Yes the pliers being used incorrectly bother me as a long time plumber I see plumber use them wrong and ruin the teeth as well as applying teflon tape incorrectly!
You got to go clockwise with your tape it won't peel off that way
Plier use only bothers me when people round off the bolts or scrape the bejeezus out of whatever they are gripping.
Man we're talking about automotive mechanics and all the great things raiders and all you guys keep going on about is a pair of pliers hey take the fires and get a grip for yourself bye
Any tool used wrong drives me crazy I agree
Definitely the right call on replacing the hose if replacing the caliper.
I agree with hand packing the bearings too. I have 3 or 4 Grease packers that work great but seem to result in more mess to cleanup.
throwing it in the tub of grease works really well too, push it in and boom basically done
The ratcheting caliper compressor was cool! Much faster than rotating each turn of my compression tool by hand.
It's good to see a man who knows how to treat his hose right...
Hoes?
I've always used a C-Clamp and one of the old pads to evenly pull the pistons back just as effective but no special tool needed.
Banter makes the day go by. We used to say to the parts manager. "Go order the wrong parts and type yourself a memo or two. It's all part of the grease monkey game. Great videos Ray.
Hello been watching most of your videos and I like the way you do things I'm an old-time mechanic I made it three years old done a lot of mechanic in and a log truck driver but I must say I was a little bit disappointed in the way you packed those wheel bearings you need to go on the big side and work them back and forth on the the grease in your hand until it comes out the little side this is the only thing I would like to see you change of course that's up to you I think you are an excellent mechanic keep up the good work
I bought a 67 Chevy Impala 2 door fastback $400 and all it needed was new wheel bearings
PS His glove wash dirty and as packing rolled the bearing at the dirty tip of his gloves finger area,. Never wore gloves and washed hands before putting the grease in the palm of your hand.
@@waynetrainor654 I never wore gloves either I know how to wash my hands
Yes Sir, the grease should go into the larger end and get pushed through the bearing until it comes out of the smaller end. Any grease monkey can confirm that !! Ray is doing it bassackwards here.
Nice to see a man take pride in his work 😁😁👍👍
YES the pliers thing does bother me. It's like someone using a crescent wrench wrong. What's wrong with people, haha. I do love your brake cleaner method and choice of drama music. You are very entertaining and patient. Keep up the good work and forward "click".
The break cleaner sound was a tribute to "Eric O" from the "South Main Auto" channel!
And remember, "every tool is a hammer!"
Another Eric O-ism!
Yes I was here all the way to the end. Thumbs up tapped. END OF TRANSMISSION!!!
another excellent how to video, Ray's the best at sequencing how to dismantle and put back together brakes and rotors, and throwing advice of do's and don'ts,thanks Ray 🤟
Love seeing work on the older vehicles. Had a 2000 Expedition and did the brakes on it a few years ago before I eventually sold it. Brought back some memories of that vehicle.
Knipex, Channel Lock and similar pliers with the jaws set at an angle to the handles DO have a right and wrong way to apply them. The outer jaw pulls the nut/bolt surface tighter into the pliers. The jaw opening should always face left when tightening and right when loosening. Love your videos!
yes they do have a right and wrong way, the question is "how OCD are you" though, when it bothers you that it's done the wrong way in a situation where there's almost zero load on it and it works just fine either way. The answer is of course "yes it does bother me, OCD and proud!"
@@SebBrosig The same applies to adjustable wrenches ('Crescent Wrenches'). I have many, from 3" to 24" long, but I rarely use them, since I have actual wrenches and sockets to use. The adjustable wrenches, like pliers, are designed to have the torque applied in one direction,. Watching tools being used incorrectly has nothing to do with OCD. It is more like, "Wow, this person is an idiot".
This brings back memories of my 1999 Expedition. Looked just like the one from the video. Was definitely an upgrade from my 1989 Ford Bronco II I got in ‘92 as a graduation present.
😎 He actually used brake cleaner on brakes!
OK the nut back on the axle to get the inner bearing and seal to come out is new to me..! Thanks for the tip..!
If you open the cap on the master cylinder, the fluid has somewhere else to escape and won't push the pistons out.
Theoretically it should not back out of the reservoir if it does I take a better look at it
@@michaelpressman7203 you're pushing fluid, which doesn't compress. Where else would it go
@@uenragedbro I always thought there was some sort of a check valve in the system
@@michaelpressman7203 As the pads are worn down, the pistons move further out, holding more fluid in the caliper and taking from the master cylinder. It goes back in the master cylinder when the pistons get pushed in, unless the master cylinder is closed and the fluid has nowhere left to escape but the other pistons.
@@uenragedbro you're right I wasn't looking at things clearly I was having my first cup of coffee hey have a good day bye
I was trained to also fill the spindle caps with grease. Not sure that's really required but just the way I was trained back in the sixties.
Me too you can never have too much lube
Just for reference here in the UK the disposable type pin as in this video is a split pin, the reusable type pin is an R clip because its shaped a bit like a letter R and a cotter pin is the type with a wedge cut into one side of it as used to secure the crank arms onto the bottom bracket shaft on an old school bicycle.
I used to use our pins on race cars if you want to get under the hood real quick they make life easy especially if the car got wrecked
This brought back memories of my first boss teaching me how to pack bearings back in 1982
I'm so old I did wheel bearings on Fred Flintstone's car in bedrock
Love the videos can't wait to see the next one
Almost 400K subscrlbers Ray Ray. Good job !
Your technique of reinstalling the rotating assembly is almost exactly as my own. I was always taught to tighten the bearing to a light-torque preload while rotating and then back off about 1/4 turn. But unlike your description, I feel a very very slight click as I move the assembly laterally. This leaves the bearing an ever-so-small amount of room to expand with heat and still not bind the bearing.
Although I've done it this way for 30 years, I'm now curious if my school of thought has been passed by without my notice. What do others think about my final preload procedure?
That's what Ford advise for mk2 cortina mk1 and 2 escorts. There should be some play when cold. I'm in the uk as well.
@@martinrobinson9651 Good to know because I'm a medium/heavy tech. I've always just downsized my technique when working on my own or smaller stuff.
Yep, he should've pre-loaded those bearings. At this truck's next service those wheel bearings will need tightening.
I do the same as you with the preload....specifically for the heat consideration.
Split pin, cotter pins are tapered solid pins with a flat ground on one side, used to hold bicycle pedal shafts onto the crank.
I expect Awesome work as always ray 👍
Hey Ray Just so you know I use old shows to help me sleep. Your voice puts me to sleep Thanks :-))
Ray, where is the purple Permatex anti seize on the hardware to keep the pads sliding? The last brush in cap bottle I bought was up to $25.
It allows the calipers to float on the pins so they will send her up on the pads
Inboard/Outboard enjoy the Nautical talk Ray!!
Have you ever thought about using an angle grinder to take off the rust band on a rotor (if you're replacing it anyway) so the caliper will slide off easy? (Just thought of it myself)
Work smarter not harder
So easy to press pistons back into the caliper using a C clamp before even attempting to remove the caliper assembly. (You probably shouldn't be working on brakes if your first thought was to use a grinder on them)
@@bushmaster2936 the pistons came out, good luck getting them back in. I had it happen on my blazers rear discs (bought it like that) The piston decided to break in half rather than go back in place. Had to replace the entire caliper
@@bushmaster2936 also he's talking about the video you didn't watch obviously. Piston came out and if it happens good luck getting em back in.
Pistons do go back in easy if you maintain your vehicle properly lol.
@@bushmaster2936 Sad that your first inclination was to be snarky. Now you just look foolish.
Ray, you are a remarkable smart and talented guy. Always facinating to watch and learn even if I will never do 99.999999% of this stuff myself. My days of doing oil changes, carb rebuilds, tune ups are way in my rear view mirror.
I remember rebuilding quadra Jets
Good morning Ray, thanks for another great video. As usual I always read all the comments and some of them make me laugh. Even though I've done quite a few brake jobs and it amazes me that you were able to get a caliper for that truck first try LoL. Anyway with the way things are now a days times are tough as far as $ is concerned people are having a hard time making ends meet so anyone commenting on changing both sides of everything just don't get it.
You do excellent work and at times you above and beyond. That shows me just what type of human being you are💯. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and expertise. God bless you and your family 🙏. Stay safe and healthy young man you're an example of a true American 🇺🇸🇺🇸💪💪✌️✌️
I wish there were a lot more people like Ray he's great
I did same to my 1998 Expedition. 1 rotor plus one wheel bearings last year. Thanks for the video.