Thanks so much. This was very helpful. I have a 68 c10 too. When I replaced the turn signal switch, my horn stopped working correctly. This finally helped me figure out what was wrong.
In the event someone is stacking the horn assembly for a 1967-68 Camaro, I want to save you some headache. There is a insulator made in the exact shape of the spring disk. It's a type of fiber/paper insulator. Only was made on the original assembly. It is not part of any replacement horn kit. But what it does, especially on the 67-68 model with a standard steering wheel with all it's metal is keep you from getting a 12v shock when pressing the horn button with your hand touching any other metal part of the steering wheel. The only way to get one is to cut one yourself (I used some thin gasket material i had laying around. Cut it in the exact shape of the spring disk. Glue it to the bottom side of the aluminum cup. That will separate the 12v from the rest of the steering wheel. Hope this helps someone.
I made similar washers from watching the video. That took care of the lack of 'slack" so to speak and allows the button to be bushed down now. However I still cannot get the horn to engage unless i take the screw out and shove a screwdriver or something metal touching the spring plate the center threads of the column. I obviously have something not playing well together, not sure what it is though. my washer and nut do not make contact with anything metal. Please advise, thanks
Ok,I got the horn button working and activating the relay but I can't figure out which wire goes to the horn,itself. This truck had a cheapo button on the dash wired directly to the horn. Any ideas?
Great video, very helpful. What is the job of those spacers you made why did you need them and are they electrically insulating anything--if so why doesn't original equipment have them? I'm trying to understand why what you call the spring disk doesn't make contact with the cup all the time? Or to put it differently specifically what functions here as an open electrical switch and what closes it to ground the horn relay? Thanks
The spacers I made were needed in my configuration to add space. :-) Otherwise the horn button was already all the way in and I couldn't actually press it to do anything. This also meant that the horn was randomly triggering. Double bad. Check out the piece at 4:10 in the video, that gets pressed down and is the switch.
Not sure if you're still looking for the answer but I've been working on a '76 CJ-7 since the horn assembly is of the same parts. I found this video very helpful (thanks, btw Nick!), since back in the day when vehicles were made, many designs were universal despite the manufacturer. If the parts and the order of installation were all the same, on my CJ-7, once the signal cancelling cam is installed, I have a anti-theft locking plate that goes next onto the column shaft (the plate that locks the steering wheel when the ignition key is removed).
They only use a lock plate with a column that has the key cylinder on the side. The one shown is key w/ignition switch on the dash. Your actual ignition switch is toward the bottom, operated by a rod. ASE Master Tech since 1978, Retired
Thank you! Was struggling with my ‘71 and this video solved my issues in 5 minutes. Appreciate it!
Thanks so much. This was very helpful. I have a 68 c10 too. When I replaced the turn signal switch, my horn stopped working correctly. This finally helped me figure out what was wrong.
In the event someone is stacking the horn assembly for a 1967-68 Camaro, I want to save you some headache. There is a insulator made in the exact shape of the spring disk. It's a type of fiber/paper insulator. Only was made on the original assembly. It is not part of any replacement horn kit. But what it does, especially on the 67-68 model with a standard steering wheel with all it's metal is keep you from getting a 12v shock when pressing the horn button with your hand touching any other metal part of the steering wheel. The only way to get one is to cut one yourself (I used some thin gasket material i had laying around. Cut it in the exact shape of the spring disk. Glue it to the bottom side of the aluminum cup. That will separate the 12v from the rest of the steering wheel. Hope this helps someone.
Thanks! This video was a huge help to me as a novice getting my 1969 Rambler center horn reassembled!
Awesome! I'm a novice as well so figured others would benefit from not being as confused as I was.
To answer my own question,it's the green wire that goes to the relay. Now I just gotta get the button to work every time , easily. Thanks again.
Thanks for sharing , I need the taller horn button cup .Cheers my friend 🍻
Good show Nick, however when using all OEM materials, its a bit different process. God bless your work!
I made similar washers from watching the video. That took care of the lack of 'slack" so to speak and allows the button to be bushed down now. However I still cannot get the horn to engage unless i take the screw out and shove a screwdriver or something metal touching the spring plate the center threads of the column. I obviously have something not playing well together, not sure what it is though. my washer and nut do not make contact with anything metal. Please advise, thanks
Well you kind of left out the part when you put it all together which is what most people need to see
Where did u get the parts??
Ok,I got the horn button working and activating the relay but I can't figure out which wire goes to the horn,itself. This truck had a cheapo button on the dash wired directly to the horn. Any ideas?
Great video, very helpful. What is the job of those spacers you made why did you need them and are they electrically insulating anything--if so why doesn't original equipment have them? I'm trying to understand why what you call the spring disk doesn't make contact with the cup all the time? Or to put it differently specifically what functions here as an open electrical switch and what closes it to ground the horn relay? Thanks
One other thing are the screws fully tightened?
The spacers I made were needed in my configuration to add space. :-) Otherwise the horn button was already all the way in and I couldn't actually press it to do anything. This also meant that the horn was randomly triggering. Double bad. Check out the piece at 4:10 in the video, that gets pressed down and is the switch.
@@davidtuniman1431 You can't tighten them too much or you risk breaking the plastic.
good vedeo except for the audio, sounds like your wispring.
thanks nick, did you have a lock plate over the cancelling cam?
Not that I recall.
Not sure if you're still looking for the answer but I've been working on a '76 CJ-7 since the horn assembly is of the same parts. I found this video very helpful (thanks, btw Nick!), since back in the day when vehicles were made, many designs were universal despite the manufacturer. If the parts and the order of installation were all the same, on my CJ-7, once the signal cancelling cam is installed, I have a anti-theft locking plate that goes next onto the column shaft (the plate that locks the steering wheel when the ignition key is removed).
They only use a lock plate with a column that has the key cylinder on the side. The one shown is key w/ignition switch on the dash. Your actual ignition switch is toward the bottom, operated by a rod. ASE Master Tech since 1978, Retired
Ok, got the horn “working” but I have to hit it just right, also horn sometimes honks when I turn the wheel, especially in reverse. Any ideas? Thanks
Sounds like your spacing isn't set properly between the different pieces, causing and/or preventing electrical contact at the wrong times.
Where did you buy the taller metal cup? LMC doesn’t seem to have it. Thanks! 🔧
classicparts.com
Nick Momrik I appreciate it Nick! 🔧
Tall horn cup (approx 1") is from 67-72 trucks. the short cup (approx 3/4") is 64-66. This was a goreat video Nick
Anyone know if this will fit on a cherokee