Clear and concise, thank you . I’m attempting this install but I only have to add 50 sq.meters of ufh to part of house that is on far side from baxi .I dug down 200mm in old stone section of house added 100mm insulation. I’m putting in the loops . A plumbing friend tells me the aluminum breaks down in the piping but I just used it anyway as everyone else uses this product in my area (ufh specific pipe from Italy) Question - can I keep single stage boiler , keep the water tank (immersion from boiler ) Keep the on off switch for rads (old style just which has temperature control on the baxi (on/off) And on my new ufl 4 port manifold just supply it from the 3/4” radiator main supply (at end of rad system) ? Perhaps I’m better of getting new thermostat, wiring control center and redoing all the controls with two thermostats (rads and ufh) Pump and boiler heat on for rads Pump and boiler heat on for ufl Controled from thermostat and or smart phone
Hi Robb7177 Thanks, would not worry about the Ali pipe it very common and long lasting these days, as for the set up I would always recommend having the two systems seperated and independantly controlled not just for best practice but also userbility.
very useful, straightforwared guide - thanks. Would be interested to know more about balancing and whether each circuit is set in isolation or whether there is some dependency across circuits. i.e. does balancing involve all circuits being 'tuned' with a flow rates simultaneously? What is the main decision for setting the flow rate, length of circuit?
Hi Andy, thanks for the comment, the balancing of the manifold is based on the length of circuit and output required of the zone, I will do a video about this hopefully in the not too distant future :-)
At 8 minutes 30, you explain the signal is sent to boiler or potentially the 2 port after the call for heat. What is the need in the 2-port to the manifold when you’ve already got more than enough control?
Hi, if it’s just an underfloor heating system then the two port valve is not necessary, the two port valve will allow the radiator part to function correctly, hope that helps
Hi good explanation of the system. However you did not explain the auto vent valves and drain and pressure release parts at the end of the manifold. My top auto vent valve is leaking. I assume I need to depressurise before removing and replacing/ cleaning?
Im a noob with a question if my cv installation already provides water with a temp of say 45 degrees, why would i need to use the mixing valve, sounds like that would a waste. Cant i just open the mixing valve to max to allow the max temp 45 in the system?
Hi there, great video. I have a question about how wire up the heat miser properly. I have 4 zones UFH at my ground floor premises and radiators upstairs my bedrooms. It all fed by Worster Bosch boiler . I have two ports valve installed for each one - radiators system and UFH system. I have 5 core cable between the boiler and the heatmiser. The boiler is controlled by RF Honeywell thermostat. My question is if you could help me wire the two port valves to the heatmiser, as there is only one slot for two port valve . And the other one is how to wire the boiler to the heatmiser? Do I really need 5 core cable to the miser. Appreciate for any help. Thank you
I have moved into a house where the UFH manifold appears to have been installed the wrong way around: flowmeters on return and TRVs (with thermostat actuators) on flow (hot water in). The system works, but the flow meters always show zero. I assume to make the system work at its full efficiency the manifold needs to be planned the right way round (the reverse of what mine is)?
Thank you very much, very informative. Should the UFH pump be wired to run simultaneously with the zone valve being opened and the boiler being called for heat? or Should the pump come on when the thermostat signals the zone valve to open beforehand?
Hi euanowen, that’s a very good question. From my experience it will run when the signal is sent to the boiler/ zone valve, that being after a short delay from when the stat calls and the actuators are given time to open. But I am sure different wiring centres have different setups. Hope that helps :-)
In your example would the underfloor circuit need some form of hydraulic separation (close coupled tees or low loss header) between the ufh zone valve and the manifold to stop the underfloor heating pump affecting the boiler's own pump? Or does the underfloor heating pump not affect any pressures in the primary flow and returns from the boiler ? I hope my question is clear as I need to understand this. Thanks
Hi, thanks for the comment. If just using UFH only then this is not and issue, however when using rads and UFH combined its best to install a low-loss header, that's what I did :)
Great presentation and very useful. First question, is the 2 port valve on the UFH circuit required since if the actuators are all closed then in essence they will close that circuit if no demand for heat is required in the UFH system (i expect this might demand on the pressure rating of the actuators vs the boiler circulation pump). Second question(s), i'm looking to integrate smart devices into my home heating system and my proposed set up is combi boiler (in airing cupboard on first floor) serving ground floor UFH system (4 zones), first floor 2No rads and second floor 1No rad and 1 UFH zone (bathroom). I have 8 zones so to avoid the reference zone heating setup which would heat the reference room continuously, i expect i will need 2no 4 zone wiring centres. 1No wiring centre will be located adjacent to my 4 port manifold on the ground floor. Each of the ports on my UFH manifold will connect to the wiring centre (as you have shown in your video) as a separate zone and in turn wired to a smart thermostat in each zone. The other wiring centre will be located on the second floor and will connect to the lone UFH zone there, again by connecting to the manifold and wired to a smart thermostat. The last zone of the wiring centre (on second floor) can be switched to serve radiators and i can connect a wireless receiver to this. The wireless receiver can connect to a smart hub and in turn to multiple smart radiator valves. Both wiring centres will be wired back to my combi boiler in parallel. Hopefully in this manner i have smart control over all heating zones and the boiler is only in operation when any of these zones calls for heat. Is this approach sensible or do you have any comments? Sorry for the long message and multiple questions.
I've recently moved into a new build property with exactly the same system shown in your video. What should the boiler temperature be set for the heating (currently at 55c) as the rooms l use have never gone above 20c. Thanks for the very informative information on how the heating system works.
Thank you for putting this video together, it's very helpful and very well delivered. I have a 3-Zone system, kitchen, living room and hallway, they are each around 80 m run ufh pipe. My build never explained anything how to operate. When I used the underfloor heating it gets hot at the beginning part of the pipe like 30% you can feel it on your feet, the rest is generally cold uncomfortable to walk on doesn't get hot. The flow rate is around 3/4L on each zone. I've tried to play with the pump and put it on a higher setting didn't really make a difference. Any advice you could shoot my way would be greatly appreciated, as I've been ripped off on my first round :-( Thanking you in advance
Hi parmbansal1, thank you for your comment, pretty tricky to diagnose online but can you tell me what type of system it is, i.e. within a screed? Worth trying to run the system for a long period of time to ensure the floor has time to heat up and touch the 3x flow and returns to see if you can feel or measure a difference between them
It is typically that the system has not been designed properly such that the circuit on question is too large. Rooms sometimes have two or more circuits to alleviate the problem that you are experiencing
Enjoyed the video, and have just installed underfloor heating on the ground floor of our house while the upstairs is radiators, we only have one zone valve installed and I am waiting for the heating engineer to wire this in. The question I have is what if both radiator thermostat and underfloor heating are calling for heat at the same time - which takes priority?
Jon Mapp hi Jon, thanks for the comment, it would all depend on how it’s wired, for example ufh always has flow but when your radiator stat calls then priority will be given to this system or visa versa. Hope that helps and thanks for watching, been a while since my last upload but am keeping an eye on the comments
just discovered this, and its a perfect explanation for what I need - having a problematic UFH and struggling to udnerstand what the numerous plumbers have told me (each one claiming the previous plumber did an imperfect job). shame its a few years old. what happened to the rest?
I have a Wirsbo brass manifold underfloor heating system installed in 2005 with electromechanical actuators on the manifold ports and thermostats which control this. Can I replace those actuators with a manual flow control so I can just set the rooms I want heated to be open and those rooms I don’t use i can shut off? I’m trying to get rid of the power consumption of the actuators and thermostats, plus I heard underfloor heating runs more efficiently if you leave the zones open and control temperature by adjusting the boiler flow temp.
Hi PVflying, thank you for the comment, if you want to remove the actuators then its just a case of working out if the port is open or closed once the actuator is removed, in many cases they are open when the actuators are removed but not always the case, a screw cap can then be put in its place to close them (normally supplied with the manifold) Leaving zones open and just controlling the flow temp can be efficient but only in some circumstances such as a very large system with a large thermal mass (screed), in these cases the stat has unable to change the room temp quickly due the the heat or lack of in the screed. I would leave it alone or just shut down specific circuits if you really don't want them to be heated. Hope this helps and good luck.
@@underfloorheatingreview thanks! If I experiment by powering off the wiring centre that would cause the actuators to all be off, so I guess if that proves that the heat then flows to all zones I suppose I know that it’s safe to remove the actuators as it proves the default is for the zones to be open (as opposed to needing the actuators to press the pin down to open the zone). If this sounds right to you I’ll have a go and see what I can learn about my system
Hi, thanks for the comment, if your whole zone is too hot then perhaps you should first make sure your thermostat is shutting down correctly and that the valves are closing when not required, if it is then you could consider reducing the flow temp via the mixing valve to stop any overshooting if the desired room temp. Good luck
At Christmas I had to have an old Drayton actuator valve replaced on my UFH manifold and also the three port valve changed. I’m finding when the underfloor heating is on the pipes running into the radiator and hot water motorised valves in the boiler cupboard are roaring hot. Both valves sound to be running although the indicator lights are not ignited as they would be had I turned the rads and hot water on. Any ideas?
Very useful and great video, please could you tell me if little bit water leaking from air vent valve then we need to tight or keep in same position Thanks
Hi Ajay, It’s pretty common, it should stop fairly quickly once the air has been released, on my system I keep them cracked open so any air can escape in the event of a buildup
Hello. Thank you for a useful video. Can I buy old Watts type flow indicators? I have a 20 year old system and all 5 gauges are completely jammed up. Thanks!
Thanks for putting together the video. It is very helpful. I am wanting to fit the UFH system to the existing radiator loop. Does it matter where on the loop you fit the UFH? Does the position of the UFH manifold in the loop make a difference to the efficiency of the heating system? I want to believe it doesn't, but common sense tells me it does because of the journey of the hot water. Our UHF is for the extension and means it will need to be positioned before the last two radiators on the loop. Any advice or comments are welcome.
Hi Anthony, glad you liked it, yes manifolds for just radiators are becoming popular because of the control options, the manifolds are less complex as the mixing valve and pumps are not usually required, hope that helps
Fantastic conent - with heatpumps becoming more popular which can reverse their cycle and provide cooling ( during hot summer days), will conventional manifolds work or will that need a different set up?
Thanks for the great video. One question; I noticed that the on the UFH manifolds in my house the Actuators are on the ‘Supply’ arm and the Flow indicators are on the ‘Return’ arm, which is the opposite of your diagram. Does that matter ?
Hi, Flickspot, some manifolds have different configurations to the one I had shown but take a look at this for a little more detail omnie.co.uk/omnie-precision-flo-2018-manifold/?resource=Underfloor%20Heating
Hi one my zone’s doesn’t get hot, flushed it through checked thermostat and flow meter actuator head the other zones on manifold work this one is always achieving a low temperature on thermostat it did used to work before any advise would be appreciated
A little late with the question but I'm assuming the pump you show above the mixing system should always be off if the system is not calling for hot water from the boiler? We just had work done to our system and the pump now does not shut off but keeps running at all times. What could cause this issue? Wiring? I guess I will have to get the people who worked on the system back again. Right royal pain...
Could be than someone has set it up this way for a reason, for example you might have some open zones (not controlled by an actuator) but it’s hard to say, generally your right and it would shut off if no demand
Great for sharing yours expertise , I have a problem with my new water underfloor heating which is 2 circuits manifold. At moment to kick start the system the underfloor heating is running more cold water than hot. Does it have to run for same time until is back to normal function?
daniel wu hi Daniel, yes this is normal and I would always advise you to run the system and wait at least 30 mins before checking the temps, because generally the water is at a much lower temperature it will take time for the water to fully circulate
Thanks so much for the very clear video! I have a question to troubleshoot an issue I'm having with my Danfoss two-arm underfloor heating system. I'm finding that none of my rooms are heating up, however both the hot/flow pipes and the cold/return pipes are warm when the system is on. I would expect the circuits to hold hot water in that case and to feel the floors warm but I don't. Any idea what could be the issue here? I thought it could be related to the actuator pin, but that doesn't make sense to me if the circuit is warm. Thanks in advance for your help!
Hello, did you find a solution for this issue? I am having a similiar issue whereby all of my flow pipes are boiling and most of the return pipes are hot, giving me hot rooms, but 2 of the return pipes being the bathroom and living room will not heat up, and therefore leaving me with two cold rooms, and I have no idea why or how to fix. The actuators are open for all.
Great video... A question for you. I have a fairly large system, two UFH manifolds, one hot water cylinder (mains pressure) and two radiators circuits. Recently had some issues with rtn flows not letting rad circuits to get warm, so had some of the supply and rtn branches replumbed in 28mm copper so ALL circuits come off the 28 and rtn to a 28 common rtn to the boiler. However, the UFH heating manifolds (Myson Premier) are not managing to keep themselves stable. Set them to 40 and yet they go up to 55degrees. I do not think its leaking mixers as they both started playing up when the supply/rtn branches were replumbed in the main boiler room. I have a hunch that they are reverse feeding from the CH rtn when none/few of other circuits are open and thus the auto bypass valve is letting a lot of flow to "short circuit" the system. Specifically when i first turn the UFH on, the rtn output from the manifold gets hot "very quickly" which i would not expect. Thoughts? Seen this before? Contemplating fitting non-rtn valves on the CH rtn from the manifolds to stop this.... BUT as the UFH mixer actually draws water BACK from the CH Rtn when it thinks it needs to cool things down this "could" cause a vacuum. Thinking.....
Does it draw water from the return? Or does it just use the water on the return arm of the manifold to cool and only draw from the flow when extra heat is needed?
I'm thinking the manifold never draws water from the heating return . It only draws hot water from the flow when it needs to heat up the underfloor flow temperature. The cooler water is drawn from the return arm of the underfloor pipework.
Hi Jan, yes High Temp manifolds for radiators is something that is becoming more and more popular now especially in the UK, gives your that extra level of control and the ability to be more creative with the controls you choose
@@underfloorheatingreview In a recent renovation I plumbed up each rad with a flow and return. I use a basic manifold but was considering a UFH manifold for the (remote) control options
Great video and really helped me understand our system. Have Polypipe UFH in 2 areas; ground floor bedroom/bathroom extension on one manifold & thermostat ( all working well), 2nd in large lounge/kitchen on 2nd manifold & thermostat/programmer which is not reaching all parts and rarely gets to the temp set. The 2zone valve was changed and plumber returning to fit new actuators/pin valves. Hopefully this will sort it unless you think there could be another problem. But to complicate matters, we also have radiators to the old part of the house both upstairs and downstairs controlled by a 3rd Polypipe thermostat/timer. This all works ok some of the time but on some days despite the thermostat calling for heat the boiler doesn’t come on, all the radiators stay cold. Are the two issues linked do you think? How does the radiator part of the system relate to and work alongside the UFH? I’ve tried to find any logic to when the radiators do not come on but can’t find any. Any suggestions would be very welcome. Thank you so much.
The radiator circuit will have its own thermostat, timer and zone valve. If the radiator circuit is not coming on when you ask it to , one of those three components is faulty.
Great Video! I have a a couple of questions. 1) how do I know what should be input and output temperatures? Is there a rule? 2) my pomp has two modes - differential pressure and constant pressure. which one to choose under what situations?
Hi, the flow temp is determined by the output you wish to have, most good companies will tell you these outputs for their systems in W/m2 at different flow temps with different floor finishes, you will then match this to the heatloss requirement of the building in question, for example if you have a new build with great insulation and a tile floor finish then you may only need for example 25w/m2 so the flow temp only needs to be very low 30oC for example at an outside temp of -5oC, an old property that is poorly insulated may need a flow temp of 50oC to achieve the same result. As for the temperature difference between the flow and return then the rule of thumb is somewhere between 8 and 10oC, there are exceptions to this but normally this is the case. Hope that helps
Hi @Waldenpons, ideally when you get your boiler/ heat source serviced, if it’s been a few years then I would think about getting it sorted later this year
Quick question, i replaced an actuator once it was connected the zone were the actuator belongs to (3 actuators) is calling for heat and turning on the pump and it will not shut off. Any idea what is causing it. ( a transformer was changed during that service).
@@Waldenpons really hard to say but actuators do come in two flavours so to speak, normally open and normally closed, if the wrong one was installed it would act in the opposite way
Nice explanation. I am currently considering a UFH system for my sitting room and conservatory in 2 zones. Currently radiators, all controlled by tado trvs and a tado wireless receiver. Could I fit tado trvs to the points where the actuators would normally go on the manifold and use a wireless stat in the zone to control the system? I realise something would need to tell the pump to turn on but I'm guessing that signal wire to the boiler from the tado wireless receiver could be utilised? Or am I just talking nonsense here lol.
Hi Roger, in theory your are kind of correct however it would be very unlikely that the TRVs would be compatible with the manifold and like you mentioned you still have the pump issue, so in reality I would assume that your going to be purchasing new controls for your underfloor heating system, worth asking tado as they may have a solution for you in their range, hope that helps :-)
@@underfloorheatingreview thanks for getting back to me! Tados solution is to use wired thermostats in each zone, which isn't really an issue, I just fancied trying to use wireless ones in order to not have to chase wires etc.
Which pipe is better for ufh in screed new build standard? Evoh or alu? Im also wanting to use 16mm pipe to do my upstairs radiators too, over sized for lower delta T and linked via a ufh manifold in a radial layout. Are all manifolds suitable for this or only some of them?
Hi Dan, pipe type is really personal preference or whatever your UFH supplier offers, i have used both without issue. As for the manifold/s then its best not to run your rads off the UFH manifold as the temp required will be higher than that of the UFH system
@@underfloorheatingreview i was going to use a second ufh manifold upstairs separate to the ground floor one using two 2 port valves. Radiators set at 60 degrees so less blending as per your video. Emetti do a manifold just for radiators but its jhst identical to all others unless its different material. I just didnt want to select evoh pipe if it was lesser quality
Hi Christine, thanks for the comment, they can be cleaned but the system will need to be properly flushed, dark fluid in the system is not uncommon but suggests to me that it would be a good time to service your system and refill with water / inhibitor to keep it running correctly
I'm trying to understand how my heating system has been configured as I can't get the temperature higher than 35C at the top of the pump. The difference in my system from yours is the hot water supply comes in from the right onto the top manifold and the return is below it, with a mixing valve located between the two, and a bypass set at 0.6 bar. The circulation pump on mine is suction side from the flow and output on the return. The solenoid are mounted on the top manifold...I don't understand the purpose of the circulation pump being configured in this manner as surely the pump will just push the hot water straight out to the return to the boiler?
Hi Allen, thanks for the comment, little hard to diagnose without seeing the setup but you mention that the mixing valve is set to 0.6bar, seems a little odd as this is temperature regulated and not via pressure, could that be a bypass? Check the temps going to the manifold from your heat source first, that’s where I would start, good luck
@@underfloorheatingreview I have a similar setup which is also causing me some confusion. Like Allan's. the supply & return are attached to the ends of the manifolds, opposite the recirc pump.. In my case the flow valves are at the top and the actuators at the bottom, but what is the pump doing? It sometimes doesn't come on, for a while and other times it comes on as soon as the room thermostat demands. Mine is a Uponor manifod.
Hello still waiting for some new videos have a happy new year I have a question how much sand or self-leveling cement would you recommend over the pipes for example in my house they are going to have a floating floor I think they call it that where they put send a few centimeters thick and then install the tile with mortar it’s to have the floor extremely level anyway my question was how many centimeters thick would you recommend sand or cement over the pipes before the tiles
Hi thanks, that would really depend on the self levelling compound you choose to use, typically it’s a 50-60mm traditional sand and cement or you can use much thinner specialist self levelling compound
Very good video. Thanks..I think I have the hot feed connected to the incorrect side of manifold.....If I had your email I could send you a graphic of my manifold..any help appreciated... I'm in Dublin...Thanks
Hi Raymond, thanks for the comment, my best advice is that the manifold should be located above the pipe (highest point in the circuit) so that the auto air vents can do there job. As for the position then it’s best for the design layout if it is located centrally, does not have to be but helps, might want to check out my other video as I going into more detail about it there.
@@underfloorheatingreview Thanks for clear out that issue.I'm living in U S. I have radiator heat on first and second floor. Planing to run radiant flooring on top floor and their temperature are difference. How can i separate two systems temp?
@@raymondlee8351 that is the job of the mixing valve on the manifold, you can therefore run your rad temps as normal and the mixing valve will reduce this temperature for the underfloor heating part of the system
Great video, thanks. I have got a question , on existing gravity system i have got a Grundfos circulation pump, do i need to ad another pump with mixing valve for manifold. Thanks
Andrius Ignatjevas, hello and thanks for the comment, yes providing you have a traditional boiler you will need the secondary circulator and mixing value in order to reduce the flow temp into the floor
I've subscribed, good job. How do you connect to an existing system without touching the existing wiring so the manifold is independent and just runs its pump from a thermostat ( whether boiler is running or not) and does the flow and return need an automatic bypass valve before the manifold ?
Ray HSETWO thanks for the comment, you can set it up like you have said without the connections to the boiler or zone valve however it means that the system cannot run independently and is not best practice to do so, hope this helps but let me know if you need further clarification
Any ideas why occasionally my underflow heating refuses to work or heat the floor? All lights on red even though the themostat controls are asking for heat
Great videos. Please keep them coming. I have one quick question: is there any advantage or disadvantage of using stainless steel, brass or plastic manifolds? Thanks in advance.
Hi Garry, thanks for the question Personally I have most experience with using stainless steel manifolds but that’s only because it has been the market preference in the UK. I have seen some nice looking plastic composite manifolds from European companies in the past so I would not be put off at all using these and brass too. As with anything you purchase for your trade or home it is always good to buy from a reputable company
Such a great video - simple and well explained. Thank you. I have the same set up as you have mentioned on the neat whiteboard. But i have the following problem - my UFH doesnt seem to work at all while the radiator system seems fine. The radiators turn on instantly when i turn up temp on my HIVE thermstat, but the UFH doesnt respond as quickly. I have checked the heat flow and can see that the circuits respond to the two other thermostats (one for corridor and bathroom+study) and another for kitchen and dining, but i dont hear the pump on the manifold respond and i cannot seem to feel hot water flow through to UFH circuit. I can however see the boiler is running to provide heated water(as the indicator turns on). Do you have any suggestions/recommendations on what i should be doing? The mixing valve is set to 40 deg C.
Hi Carl, thanks for the comment, are both of the systems controlled by the same thermostat? If so then this will most likely be your problem, UFH systems need to run for much longer periods of time when compared to Rads
@@underfloorheatingreview hello mate, thank you for responding. There are 3 zones in the house. 1st is for radiators (hive thermostat 1) and then 2 uFH zones controlled by a thermostat each which are connected to a manifold (1 port each). I can see that the relays are working alright but i cannot see pump responding to the zones turning on nor can i feel hot water moving out of the flow pipes.
@@maverickcbs2000 Hi Carl, that is a tricky one and could be a number of things, might to call someone to come take a look, sometimes the pump will have a delay to allow the ports to full open first but if the pump is not coming on then that is the main issue
@@underfloorheatingreview thank you for the prompt responses. It turned out that the pump had come undone and stopped working. Fixed now. The guy who came over turned up the mixer valve to 60 deg. Can i turn this down to say 50?
daniel wu most heating manifolds as explained in the video will have an automatic air valve so this will remove any buildup of air within the system automatically, generally air build up is only an issue when initially filling the system, hope that helps :-)
Somehow my system works without any controls whatsoever. I have a mixing manifold but no thermostats control it so it's just open all the time and the hot water is just pumping around the house at all times. Somehow it seems to work but I'm probably wasting a lot of energy but the house is warm.
I have a ideal combi boiler with the nest learning stat that’s wired to terminals 2 and 3 for volt free switching in the heatlink but I’m asking anyone who knows if it’s possible to use the 5 and 6 terminals that has the live link to make them 240v and still keep 2 and 3 volt free. It’s just that I’ve added ufh and need switched power for the pump. I haven’t installed a zone valve as I only want one stat. Is this possible without blowing the unit?
At Christmas I had to have an old Drayton actuator valve replaced on my UFH manifold and also the three port valve changed. I’m finding when the underfloor heating is on the pipes running into the radiator and hot water motorised valves in the boiler cupboard are roaring hot. Both valves sound to be running although the indicator lights are not ignited as they would be had I turned the rads and hot water on. Any ideas?
Excellet explantion that has helped me no end to troubleshooting our new heating system.
Great I could be of some help :-)
It was really good explanation about how manifold works
Clear and concise, thank you .
I’m attempting this install but I only have to add 50 sq.meters of ufh to part of house that is on far side from baxi .I dug down 200mm in old stone section of house added 100mm insulation. I’m putting in the loops .
A plumbing friend tells me the aluminum breaks down in the piping but I just used it anyway as everyone else uses this product in my area (ufh specific pipe from Italy)
Question - can I keep single stage boiler , keep the water tank (immersion from boiler )
Keep the on off switch for rads (old style just which has temperature control on the baxi (on/off)
And on my new ufl 4 port manifold just supply it from the 3/4” radiator main supply (at end of rad system) ?
Perhaps I’m better of getting new thermostat, wiring control center and redoing all the controls with two thermostats (rads and ufh)
Pump and boiler heat on for rads
Pump and boiler heat on for ufl
Controled from thermostat and or smart phone
Hi Robb7177 Thanks, would not worry about the Ali pipe it very common and long lasting these days, as for the set up I would always recommend having the two systems seperated and independantly controlled not just for best practice but also userbility.
Very informative and well presented. Thanks.
Great video 😊 one question is why do i struggle to get my ufh to flow. I have hot flow but return is cold. Could the top flow bar be blocked???
Thank you. I learned alot in these 13 mins! 👏🏻👏🏻
very useful, straightforwared guide - thanks. Would be interested to know more about balancing and whether each circuit is set in isolation or whether there is some dependency across circuits. i.e. does balancing involve all circuits being 'tuned' with a flow rates simultaneously? What is the main decision for setting the flow rate, length of circuit?
Hi Andy, thanks for the comment, the balancing of the manifold is based on the length of circuit and output required of the zone, I will do a video about this hopefully in the not too distant future :-)
Enjoying these clear technical guides. Keep em coming : )
Thanks for this clear and succinct summary on UFH system control.
At 8 minutes 30, you explain the signal is sent to boiler or potentially the 2 port after the call for heat. What is the need in the 2-port to the manifold when you’ve already got more than enough control?
Hi, if it’s just an underfloor heating system then the two port valve is not necessary, the two port valve will allow the radiator part to function correctly, hope that helps
Great videos and good clear explanation of system set up.......👍
Hi good explanation of the system. However you did not explain the auto vent valves and drain and pressure release parts at the end of the manifold. My top auto vent valve is leaking. I assume I need to depressurise before removing and replacing/ cleaning?
Im a noob with a question if my cv installation already provides water with a temp of say 45 degrees, why would i need to use the mixing valve, sounds like that would a waste. Cant i just open the mixing valve to max to allow the max temp 45 in the system?
Very informative system diagram but would you continue with step by step for how to correctly setup and Balance the Manifold please.
Regards
Great video but how are you expected to get multiple actuator wired into finest connector block in wiring centre?
Hi Alan, the wiring center connection blocks can accept more than one actuator wire in most cases
Superb, many thanks
Hi there, great video. I have a question about how wire up the heat miser properly. I have 4 zones UFH at my ground floor premises and radiators upstairs my bedrooms. It all fed by Worster Bosch boiler . I have two ports valve installed for each one - radiators system and UFH system. I have 5 core cable between the boiler and the heatmiser. The boiler is controlled by RF Honeywell thermostat. My question is if you could help me wire the two port valves to the heatmiser, as there is only one slot for two port valve . And the other one is how to wire the boiler to the heatmiser? Do I really need 5 core cable to the miser. Appreciate for any help. Thank you
Hi, thanks for the comment but your gonna need an electrician for that
Hit me up dido .. @mainly electrical
I have moved into a house where the UFH manifold appears to have been installed the wrong way around: flowmeters on return and TRVs (with thermostat actuators) on flow (hot water in). The system works, but the flow meters always show zero. I assume to make the system work at its full efficiency the manifold needs to be planned the right way round (the reverse of what mine is)?
Thank you very much, very informative. Should the UFH pump be wired to run simultaneously with the zone valve being opened and the boiler being called for heat? or Should the pump come on when the thermostat signals the zone valve to open beforehand?
Hi euanowen, that’s a very good question. From my experience it will run when the signal is sent to the boiler/ zone valve, that being after a short delay from when the stat calls and the actuators are given time to open. But I am sure different wiring centres have different setups. Hope that helps :-)
@@underfloorheatingreview Thank you!
Hi great instructional videos, when I turn my ufh mixing valve down it thumps when it’s introducing cool water into the manifold is this normal
Fantastic video, thanks! Answered so many questions I had
In your example would the underfloor circuit need some form of hydraulic separation (close coupled tees or low loss header) between the ufh zone valve and the manifold to stop the underfloor heating pump affecting the boiler's own pump? Or does the underfloor heating pump not affect any pressures in the primary flow and returns from the boiler ? I hope my question is clear as I need to understand this. Thanks
Hi, thanks for the comment. If just using UFH only then this is not and issue, however when using rads and UFH combined its best to install a low-loss header, that's what I did :)
@@underfloorheatingreview thanks for your reply
Great presentation and very useful. First question, is the 2 port valve on the UFH circuit required since if the actuators are all closed then in essence they will close that circuit if no demand for heat is required in the UFH system (i expect this might demand on the pressure rating of the actuators vs the boiler circulation pump).
Second question(s), i'm looking to integrate smart devices into my home heating system and my proposed set up is combi boiler (in airing cupboard on first floor) serving ground floor UFH system (4 zones), first floor 2No rads and second floor 1No rad and 1 UFH zone (bathroom). I have 8 zones so to avoid the reference zone heating setup which would heat the reference room continuously, i expect i will need 2no 4 zone wiring centres. 1No wiring centre will be located adjacent to my 4 port manifold on the ground floor. Each of the ports on my UFH manifold will connect to the wiring centre (as you have shown in your video) as a separate zone and in turn wired to a smart thermostat in each zone. The other wiring centre will be located on the second floor and will connect to the lone UFH zone there, again by connecting to the manifold and wired to a smart thermostat. The last zone of the wiring centre (on second floor) can be switched to serve radiators and i can connect a wireless receiver to this. The wireless receiver can connect to a smart hub and in turn to multiple smart radiator valves. Both wiring centres will be wired back to my combi boiler in parallel. Hopefully in this manner i have smart control over all heating zones and the boiler is only in operation when any of these zones calls for heat. Is this approach sensible or do you have any comments?
Sorry for the long message and multiple questions.
Good question with asking why a zone valve is required in the underfloor heating
I've recently moved into a new build property with exactly the same system shown in your video. What should the boiler temperature be set for the heating (currently at 55c) as the rooms l use have never gone above 20c.
Thanks for the very informative information on how the heating system works.
Really well put together and accurately informative.
Thank you for putting this video together, it's very helpful and very well delivered.
I have a 3-Zone system, kitchen, living room and hallway, they are each around 80 m run ufh pipe.
My build never explained anything how to operate.
When I used the underfloor heating it gets hot at the beginning part of the pipe like 30% you can feel it on your feet, the rest is generally cold uncomfortable to walk on doesn't get hot.
The flow rate is around 3/4L on each zone.
I've tried to play with the pump and put it on a higher setting didn't really make a difference.
Any advice you could shoot my way would be greatly appreciated, as I've been ripped off on my first round :-(
Thanking you in advance
Hi parmbansal1, thank you for your comment, pretty tricky to diagnose online but can you tell me what type of system it is, i.e. within a screed? Worth trying to run the system for a long period of time to ensure the floor has time to heat up and touch the 3x flow and returns to see if you can feel or measure a difference between them
It is typically that the system has not been designed properly such that the circuit on question is too large.
Rooms sometimes have two or more circuits to alleviate the problem that you are experiencing
Is there a video about thermostats - especially how they are wired to the actuators and boiler control?
Hi David, I will add it to my list of future videos, I hope this one helped
Enjoyed the video, and have just installed underfloor heating on the ground floor of our house while the upstairs is radiators, we only have one zone valve installed and I am waiting for the heating engineer to wire this in. The question I have is what if both radiator thermostat and underfloor heating are calling for heat at the same time - which takes priority?
Jon Mapp hi Jon, thanks for the comment, it would all depend on how it’s wired, for example ufh always has flow but when your radiator stat calls then priority will be given to this system or visa versa. Hope that helps and thanks for watching, been a while since my last upload but am keeping an eye on the comments
just discovered this, and its a perfect explanation for what I need - having a problematic UFH and struggling to udnerstand what the numerous plumbers have told me (each one claiming the previous plumber did an imperfect job). shame its a few years old. what happened to the rest?
They are coming, just very busy of late :-)
Nice videos!
Would you make more videos?
I have a Wirsbo brass manifold underfloor heating system installed in 2005 with electromechanical actuators on the manifold ports and thermostats which control this. Can I replace those actuators with a manual flow control so I can just set the rooms I want heated to be open and those rooms I don’t use i can shut off? I’m trying to get rid of the power consumption of the actuators and thermostats, plus I heard underfloor heating runs more efficiently if you leave the zones open and control temperature by adjusting the boiler flow temp.
Hi PVflying, thank you for the comment, if you want to remove the actuators then its just a case of working out if the port is open or closed once the actuator is removed, in many cases they are open when the actuators are removed but not always the case, a screw cap can then be put in its place to close them (normally supplied with the manifold)
Leaving zones open and just controlling the flow temp can be efficient but only in some circumstances such as a very large system with a large thermal mass (screed), in these cases the stat has unable to change the room temp quickly due the the heat or lack of in the screed. I would leave it alone or just shut down specific circuits if you really don't want them to be heated. Hope this helps and good luck.
@@underfloorheatingreview thanks! If I experiment by powering off the wiring centre that would cause the actuators to all be off, so I guess if that proves that the heat then flows to all zones I suppose I know that it’s safe to remove the actuators as it proves the default is for the zones to be open (as opposed to needing the actuators to press the pin down to open the zone). If this sounds right to you I’ll have a go and see what I can learn about my system
Thank you for the video. My rooms are too hot. I guess the valves are too open. Where exactly do I close them to lower the flow?
Hi, thanks for the comment, if your whole zone is too hot then perhaps you should first make sure your thermostat is shutting down correctly and that the valves are closing when not required, if it is then you could consider reducing the flow temp via the mixing valve to stop any overshooting if the desired room temp. Good luck
At Christmas I had to have an old Drayton actuator valve replaced on my UFH manifold and also the three port valve changed. I’m finding when the underfloor heating is on the pipes running into the radiator and hot water motorised valves in the boiler cupboard are roaring hot. Both valves sound to be running although the indicator lights are not ignited as they would be had I turned the rads and hot water on. Any ideas?
Great video
Very useful and great video, please could you tell me if little bit water leaking from air vent valve then we need to tight or keep in same position
Thanks
Hi Ajay, It’s pretty common, it should stop fairly quickly once the air has been released, on my system I keep them cracked open so any air can escape in the event of a buildup
Hello. Thank you for a useful video. Can I buy old Watts type flow indicators? I have a 20 year old system and all 5 gauges are completely jammed up. Thanks!
Thank you very much
Thanks for putting together the video. It is very helpful. I am wanting to fit the UFH system to the existing radiator loop. Does it matter where on the loop you fit the UFH? Does the position of the UFH manifold in the loop make a difference to the efficiency of the heating system? I want to believe it doesn't, but common sense tells me it does because of the journey of the hot water. Our UHF is for the extension and means it will need to be positioned before the last two radiators on the loop. Any advice or comments are welcome.
These videos are invaluable. Thank you.
Hi, wont any water from the drain valve drip down onto the floor causing flooding?
Excellent explanation 👍
Keep it up buddy.
Really enjoyed that video. Very well explained. May I ask if a manifold can be used solely for radiators on their own at 65 or so degrees?
Hi Anthony, glad you liked it, yes manifolds for just radiators are becoming popular because of the control options, the manifolds are less complex as the mixing valve and pumps are not usually required, hope that helps
Fantastic conent - with heatpumps becoming more popular which can reverse their cycle and provide cooling ( during hot summer days), will conventional manifolds work or will that need a different set up?
Really helpful as a Spark in training. Always best to know exactly what ya wires are controlling :)
Hello. If water not hot anymore, then where the water returns, drains out of circle?
Thanks for the great video. One question; I noticed that the on the UFH manifolds in my house the Actuators are on the ‘Supply’ arm and the Flow indicators are on the ‘Return’ arm, which is the opposite of your diagram. Does that matter ?
Hi, Flickspot, some manifolds have different configurations to the one I had shown but take a look at this for a little more detail omnie.co.uk/omnie-precision-flo-2018-manifold/?resource=Underfloor%20Heating
Hi one my zone’s doesn’t get hot, flushed it through checked thermostat and flow meter actuator head the other zones on manifold work this one is always achieving a low temperature on thermostat it did used to work before any advise would be appreciated
A little late with the question but I'm assuming the pump you show above the mixing system should always be off if the system is not calling for hot water from the boiler? We just had work done to our system and the pump now does not shut off but keeps running at all times. What could cause this issue? Wiring? I guess I will have to get the people who worked on the system back again. Right royal pain...
Could be than someone has set it up this way for a reason, for example you might have some open zones (not controlled by an actuator) but it’s hard to say, generally your right and it would shut off if no demand
Very kind of you to respond. Thankyou...
Great for sharing yours expertise , I have a problem with my new water underfloor heating which is 2 circuits manifold. At moment to kick start the system the underfloor heating is running more cold water than hot. Does it have to run for same time until is back to normal function?
daniel wu hi Daniel, yes this is normal and I would always advise you to run the system and wait at least 30 mins before checking the temps, because generally the water is at a much lower temperature it will take time for the water to fully circulate
Thanks so much for the very clear video! I have a question to troubleshoot an issue I'm having with my Danfoss two-arm underfloor heating system. I'm finding that none of my rooms are heating up, however both the hot/flow pipes and the cold/return pipes are warm when the system is on. I would expect the circuits to hold hot water in that case and to feel the floors warm but I don't. Any idea what could be the issue here? I thought it could be related to the actuator pin, but that doesn't make sense to me if the circuit is warm. Thanks in advance for your help!
Hello, did you find a solution for this issue? I am having a similiar issue whereby all of my flow pipes are boiling and most of the return pipes are hot, giving me hot rooms, but 2 of the return pipes being the bathroom and living room will not heat up, and therefore leaving me with two cold rooms, and I have no idea why or how to fix. The actuators are open for all.
Very brief explanation
Great video... A question for you. I have a fairly large system, two UFH manifolds, one hot water cylinder (mains pressure) and two radiators circuits.
Recently had some issues with rtn flows not letting rad circuits to get warm, so had some of the supply and rtn branches replumbed in 28mm copper so ALL circuits come off the 28 and rtn to a 28 common rtn to the boiler.
However, the UFH heating manifolds (Myson Premier) are not managing to keep themselves stable. Set them to 40 and yet they go up to 55degrees. I do not think its leaking mixers as they both started playing up when the supply/rtn branches were replumbed in the main boiler room.
I have a hunch that they are reverse feeding from the CH rtn when none/few of other circuits are open and thus the auto bypass valve is letting a lot of flow to "short circuit" the system. Specifically when i first turn the UFH on, the rtn output from the manifold gets hot "very quickly" which i would not expect.
Thoughts? Seen this before? Contemplating fitting non-rtn valves on the CH rtn from the manifolds to stop this.... BUT as the UFH mixer actually draws water BACK from the CH Rtn when it thinks it needs to cool things down this "could" cause a vacuum. Thinking.....
Does it draw water from the return? Or does it just use the water on the return arm of the manifold to cool and only draw from the flow when extra heat is needed?
I'm thinking the manifold never draws water from the heating return . It only draws hot water from the flow when it needs to heat up the underfloor flow temperature. The cooler water is drawn from the return arm of the underfloor pipework.
Well Explained. Thank you
What are your thoughts on running all radiators,through a manifold without UFH/mixer?
Hi Jan, yes High Temp manifolds for radiators is something that is becoming more and more popular now especially in the UK, gives your that extra level of control and the ability to be more creative with the controls you choose
@@underfloorheatingreview In a recent renovation I plumbed up each rad with a flow and return. I use a basic manifold but was considering a UFH manifold for the (remote) control options
Could I use a UFH manifold for hi temp or are there specific products for that?
@@janwillem6953 take a look at this maybe www.heatdirect.co.uk/t2-wall-hung-radiator-manifold-quick-pack.html
should point you in the right direction
Great video and really helped me understand our system. Have Polypipe UFH in 2 areas; ground floor bedroom/bathroom extension on one manifold & thermostat ( all working well), 2nd in large lounge/kitchen on 2nd manifold & thermostat/programmer which is not reaching all parts and rarely gets to the temp set. The 2zone valve was changed and plumber returning to fit new actuators/pin valves. Hopefully this will sort it unless you think there could be another problem. But to complicate matters, we also have radiators to the old part of the house both upstairs and downstairs controlled by a 3rd Polypipe thermostat/timer. This all works ok some of the time but on some days despite the thermostat calling for heat the boiler doesn’t come on, all the radiators stay cold. Are the two issues linked do you think? How does the radiator part of the system relate to and work alongside the UFH? I’ve tried to find any logic to when the radiators do not come on but can’t find any. Any suggestions would be very welcome. Thank you so much.
The radiator circuit will have its own thermostat, timer and zone valve. If the radiator circuit is not coming on when you ask it to , one of those three components is faulty.
Great Video! I have a a couple of questions.
1) how do I know what should be input and output temperatures? Is there a rule?
2) my pomp has two modes - differential pressure and constant pressure. which one to choose under what situations?
Hi, the flow temp is determined by the output you wish to have, most good companies will tell you these outputs for their systems in W/m2 at different flow temps with different floor finishes, you will then match this to the heatloss requirement of the building in question, for example if you have a new build with great insulation and a tile floor finish then you may only need for example 25w/m2 so the flow temp only needs to be very low 30oC for example at an outside temp of -5oC, an old property that is poorly insulated may need a flow temp of 50oC to achieve the same result. As for the temperature difference between the flow and return then the rule of thumb is somewhere between 8 and 10oC, there are exceptions to this but normally this is the case. Hope that helps
@@underfloorheatingreview This helps :) Many Thanks!
13:03 it’s been a few years now, how often the water be changed?
Hi @Waldenpons, ideally when you get your boiler/ heat source serviced, if it’s been a few years then I would think about getting it sorted later this year
Quick question, i replaced an actuator once it was connected the zone were the actuator belongs to (3 actuators) is calling for heat and turning on the pump and it will not shut off. Any idea what is causing it. ( a transformer was changed during that service).
@@Waldenpons really hard to say but actuators do come in two flavours so to speak, normally open and normally closed, if the wrong one was installed it would act in the opposite way
@@Waldenpons but if it’s calling for heat and the pump is running then it could be a faulty thermostat or wiring centre
@@underfloorheatingreview yes sir. Thank you but it is the same brand and only one was changed. Will that one affect the other two in the same zone?
Great video, thank you
Nice explanation. I am currently considering a UFH system for my sitting room and conservatory in 2 zones. Currently radiators, all controlled by tado trvs and a tado wireless receiver.
Could I fit tado trvs to the points where the actuators would normally go on the manifold and use a wireless stat in the zone to control the system? I realise something would need to tell the pump to turn on but I'm guessing that signal wire to the boiler from the tado wireless receiver could be utilised?
Or am I just talking nonsense here lol.
Hi Roger, in theory your are kind of correct however it would be very unlikely that the TRVs would be compatible with the manifold and like you mentioned you still have the pump issue, so in reality I would assume that your going to be purchasing new controls for your underfloor heating system, worth asking tado as they may have a solution for you in their range, hope that helps :-)
@@underfloorheatingreview thanks for getting back to me! Tados solution is to use wired thermostats in each zone, which isn't really an issue, I just fancied trying to use wireless ones in order to not have to chase wires etc.
Which pipe is better for ufh in screed new build standard? Evoh or alu?
Im also wanting to use 16mm pipe to do my upstairs radiators too, over sized for lower delta T and linked via a ufh manifold in a radial layout. Are all manifolds suitable for this or only some of them?
Hi Dan, pipe type is really personal preference or whatever your UFH supplier offers, i have used both without issue. As for the manifold/s then its best not to run your rads off the UFH manifold as the temp required will be higher than that of the UFH system
@@underfloorheatingreview i was going to use a second ufh manifold upstairs separate to the ground floor one using two 2 port valves.
Radiators set at 60 degrees so less blending as per your video.
Emetti do a manifold just for radiators but its jhst identical to all others unless its different material.
I just didnt want to select evoh pipe if it was lesser quality
Can you clean air flow valves. Mine are completely black and you can't see if there is any flow.
Hi Christine, thanks for the comment, they can be cleaned but the system will need to be properly flushed, dark fluid in the system is not uncommon but suggests to me that it would be a good time to service your system and refill with water / inhibitor to keep it running correctly
I'm trying to understand how my heating system has been configured as I can't get the temperature higher than 35C at the top of the pump. The difference in my system from yours is the hot water supply comes in from the right onto the top manifold and the return is below it, with a mixing valve located between the two, and a bypass set at 0.6 bar. The circulation pump on mine is suction side from the flow and output on the return. The solenoid are mounted on the top manifold...I don't understand the purpose of the circulation pump being configured in this manner as surely the pump will just push the hot water straight out to the return to the boiler?
Hi Allen, thanks for the comment, little hard to diagnose without seeing the setup but you mention that the mixing valve is set to 0.6bar, seems a little odd as this is temperature regulated and not via pressure, could that be a bypass? Check the temps going to the manifold from your heat source first, that’s where I would start, good luck
@@underfloorheatingreview I have a similar setup which is also causing me some confusion. Like Allan's. the supply & return are attached to the ends of the manifolds, opposite the recirc pump.. In my case the flow valves are at the top and the actuators at the bottom, but what is the pump doing? It sometimes doesn't come on, for a while and other times it comes on as soon as the room thermostat demands. Mine is a Uponor manifod.
Thank you! Very helpful
Hello still waiting for some new videos
have a happy new year
I have a question how much sand or self-leveling cement would you recommend over the pipes for example in my house they are going to have a floating floor I think they call it that
where they put send a few centimeters thick and then install the tile with mortar it’s to have the floor extremely level anyway my question was how many centimeters thick would you recommend sand or cement over the pipes before the tiles
Hi thanks, that would really depend on the self levelling compound you choose to use, typically it’s a 50-60mm traditional sand and cement or you can use much thinner specialist self levelling compound
@@underfloorheatingreview ok thank very much very helpful 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻 hope you have a good year
Very good video. Thanks..I think I have the hot feed connected to the incorrect side of manifold.....If I had your email I could send you a graphic of my manifold..any help appreciated... I'm in Dublin...Thanks
Thanks for this great video. I do have some questions. Where is the ideally location for the manifold? Does it have to be above the floor piping ?
Hi Raymond, thanks for the comment, my best advice is that the manifold should be located above the pipe (highest point in the circuit) so that the auto air vents can do there job. As for the position then it’s best for the design layout if it is located centrally, does not have to be but helps, might want to check out my other video as I going into more detail about it there.
@@underfloorheatingreview Thanks for clear out that issue.I'm living in U S. I have radiator heat on first and second floor. Planing to run radiant flooring on top floor and their temperature are difference. How can i separate two systems temp?
@@raymondlee8351 that is the job of the mixing valve on the manifold, you can therefore run your rad temps as normal and the mixing valve will reduce this temperature for the underfloor heating part of the system
@@underfloorheatingreview would you suggest separat pump or/and zone valve near the boiler to run radiant floor system? Thank in advance.
Great video, thanks. I have got a question , on existing gravity system i have got a Grundfos circulation pump, do i need to ad another pump with mixing valve for manifold. Thanks
Andrius Ignatjevas, hello and thanks for the comment, yes providing you have a traditional boiler you will need the secondary circulator and mixing value in order to reduce the flow temp into the floor
I've subscribed, good job. How do you connect to an existing system without touching the existing wiring so the manifold is independent and just runs its pump from a thermostat ( whether boiler is running or not) and does the flow and return need an automatic bypass valve before the manifold ?
Ray HSETWO thanks for the comment, you can set it up like you have said without the connections to the boiler or zone valve however it means that the system cannot run independently and is not best practice to do so, hope this helps but let me know if you need further clarification
Any ideas why occasionally my underflow heating refuses to work or heat the floor? All lights on red even though the themostat controls are asking for heat
Great videos. Please keep them coming. I have one quick question: is there any advantage or disadvantage of using stainless steel, brass or plastic manifolds? Thanks in advance.
Hi Garry, thanks for the question
Personally I have most experience with using stainless steel manifolds but that’s only because it has been the market preference in the UK. I have seen some nice looking plastic composite manifolds from European companies in the past so I would not be put off at all using these and brass too. As with anything you purchase for your trade or home it is always good to buy from a reputable company
Such a great video - simple and well explained. Thank you. I have the same set up as you have mentioned on the neat whiteboard. But i have the following problem - my UFH doesnt seem to work at all while the radiator system seems fine. The radiators turn on instantly when i turn up temp on my HIVE thermstat, but the UFH doesnt respond as quickly. I have checked the heat flow and can see that the circuits respond to the two other thermostats (one for corridor and bathroom+study) and another for kitchen and dining, but i dont hear the pump on the manifold respond and i cannot seem to feel hot water flow through to UFH circuit. I can however see the boiler is running to provide heated water(as the indicator turns on). Do you have any suggestions/recommendations on what i should be doing? The mixing valve is set to 40 deg C.
Hi Carl, thanks for the comment, are both of the systems controlled by the same thermostat? If so then this will most likely be your problem, UFH systems need to run for much longer periods of time when compared to Rads
@@underfloorheatingreview hello mate, thank you for responding. There are 3 zones in the house. 1st is for radiators (hive thermostat 1) and then 2 uFH zones controlled by a thermostat each which are connected to a manifold (1 port each). I can see that the relays are working alright but i cannot see pump responding to the zones turning on nor can i feel hot water moving out of the flow pipes.
@@maverickcbs2000 Hi Carl, that is a tricky one and could be a number of things, might to call someone to come take a look, sometimes the pump will have a delay to allow the ports to full open first but if the pump is not coming on then that is the main issue
@@underfloorheatingreview thank you for the prompt responses. It turned out that the pump had come undone and stopped working. Fixed now. The guy who came over turned up the mixer valve to 60 deg. Can i turn this down to say 50?
@@maverickcbs2000 hi Carl, glad you got it sorted out, I would agree with you about reducing the temps, 60 is way too high for a good system
ONE more question, how do we know air build up in the circuit within times, THANK YOU
daniel wu most heating manifolds as explained in the video will have an automatic air valve so this will remove any buildup of air within the system automatically, generally air build up is only an issue when initially filling the system, hope that helps :-)
Fantastic
So if i have 4 zones, do I need neoHub ? and 2 Thermostat . 2 separate zones can be controlled by 1 Thermostat ?
ua-cam.com/video/271oZJHtkeA/v-deo.html
Hi T J take a look at the zoning and controls video I made, all covered :-)
Somehow my system works without any controls whatsoever. I have a mixing manifold but no thermostats control it so it's just open all the time and the hot water is just pumping around the house at all times. Somehow it seems to work but I'm probably wasting a lot of energy but the house is warm.
Really clear thanks.
I have a ideal combi boiler with the nest learning stat that’s wired to terminals 2 and 3 for volt free switching in the heatlink but I’m asking anyone who knows if it’s possible to use the 5 and 6 terminals that has the live link to make them 240v and still keep 2 and 3 volt free. It’s just that I’ve added ufh and need switched power for the pump. I haven’t installed a zone valve as I only want one stat. Is this possible without blowing the unit?
Hot water too of course!
Bravo!
Good m'y brother
At Christmas I had to have an old Drayton actuator valve replaced on my UFH manifold and also the three port valve changed. I’m finding when the underfloor heating is on the pipes running into the radiator and hot water motorised valves in the boiler cupboard are roaring hot. Both valves sound to be running although the indicator lights are not ignited as they would be had I turned the rads and hot water on. Any ideas?
Very clear. Thank you