i built my own place in 2011-2013 using NU-Heat UFH throughout (330m2) - I've never had any issues at all! I couldn't recommend them highly enough. I integrated a MVHR system, and thermal solar panels as well. It's such a great idea to invest as much as you can in trying to future proof your home if the intent is for it to be your 'forever' home.
@@lukepeacham9663 no mains gas, I initially installed an electric boiler to top-up the solar panels, but that proved too expensive so I’ve got an external oil fired boiler now. Also back in 2011 when the initial feed-in tariff was available I installing 2.4kw of solar panels, they have already more than paid for themselves and I have 13 years of payments still to come!
He's an amazing guy and good friend and super brave to be featured, he has been creating amazing work for me for decades!! I'm super lucky to have him in my team!
Came back to this video as I’m just about to membrane over PIR prior to running clip track and pipe work for UFH and as per usual the work here is exceptional, also the details are covered sand all my questions were answered!! Cheers
Our first nu-heat was in 1997 (red twin pipe). Our second is coming in July 2023! Our only issue was the TRV and ultimately the control panel which I has to swap out for a wireless system. Not really a nu-heat problem but an issue related to a builder going through our control wiring. Our first choice was nu-heat before and again now. They have come along way in 25 years!
Just a little confused - at 21:31gary talks about the formers keeping the pipes down as he bends them up to the manifold. It's bit difficult to see but it looks like he is on a concrete floor, certainly not a DPM over Celotex or something equally as soft. So how does he attach them.? He says you need the formers because it is a tight radius but how do they stay fixed down and in place if there is not something substantial to fix them too.
Did you retrofit that onto an existing floor without lowering the floor and if so how much additional height had been added to the finished floor including covering?
Hello Robin finding your channel very useful . I’m just at this stage now well starting to put the insulation down . I am also using the same company. For the heating system, but we are using an air source. Just out of interest, why did you use such a thick membrane under the pipe I’m using that under the insulation . then I was going to put the thinner green one over the top before the clip and track system . We just have interest or do you recommend doing both?
Dear Expert, Thank you for the brilliant explanation. My question is whether we can install new laminate on top of old ceramics while using a wet floor heating system. Could you please guide me on whether this would prevent efficient heating conductivity, increase energy consumption, and how it might affect moisture levels? Additionally, what steps can I take to control these factors? Best regards,
I would say that providing your system is man enough to heat the space in the first place then laying a laminate floor over the top should be ok, the following factors would need to be considered, check that the underlay and flooring is compatible with under floor heating, you may need a floor temperature sensor added to the underfloor room stat that will make sure the floor temperature will not exceed the flooring manufacturers recommendations, you may need to laytex over the tiles if the tiling is not that smooth and flat
Robin, love your channel, but all the talk of being accurate and then you go and install the pipework loops and take a different route back to the manifold different to the plans, hope you modify the plans "as installed"
I am preparing to install my own floor heating in my garage and I've got two questions: first, what is a distance between those stripes and second, I am curios to know what is a distance on the stripe between the pipes. Looks like 6" (15 cms). Thanks!
This is a typical polythene DPM type material, it is 1000 gauge, we use this as it is readily available and very good value and cheaper than thinner gauges
Only UFH problem I came across was the client putting too thick of an underlay down. I think we had to find an underlay with a lower TOG which made me laugh as I thought they were confusing it with duvets😂 I think the UFH suppliers or designers can clarify what TOG underlay to use.
Been a plumber for 20 years. I used to use Nu-Heat but unfortunately they are hideously over priced! Most, if not all other UFH companies are significantly cheaper and offer just as good or better service. Nu-Heat need to change their ways.
Hi Dean, I obviously price check and I too have found cheaper systems, I am personally the kind of person that sticks with what I know and the support and technical assistance that we get from Nu Heat is second to none, we also fully trust their specifications and we have had amazing results and energy usage based on well designed systems that we have fitted over the years.
@@ukconstruction yeah I hear what you are saying and that was exactly my attitude. However, I have come to discover that there’s now plenty of UFH companies offering same customer experience but at half the cost (literally). Unfortunately Nu-Heat are so far behind the times in regard to pricing, I can’t see how they are surviving? To be honest, it’s strange how expensive they are?! Given that their products are mainly generic….. I.E mainstream manufacturers just branded up as Nu-Heat.
I hate videos where there is so much talking and very little doing - please to keep one's attention do the job and talk your viewers through it as you do it. Utter annoying when you talk and don't do.
i built my own place in 2011-2013 using NU-Heat UFH throughout (330m2) - I've never had any issues at all! I couldn't recommend them highly enough. I integrated a MVHR system, and thermal solar panels as well. It's such a great idea to invest as much as you can in trying to future proof your home if the intent is for it to be your 'forever' home.
Do you have gas? How do you get hot water.
@@lukepeacham9663 no mains gas, I initially installed an electric boiler to top-up the solar panels, but that proved too expensive so I’ve got an external oil fired boiler now. Also back in 2011 when the initial feed-in tariff was available I installing 2.4kw of solar panels, they have already more than paid for themselves and I have 13 years of payments still to come!
Can I ask who you used for MVHR ? I’m also about to do the same thing next spring, UFH throughout, MVHR, and solar. Many thanks in advance.
Super neat work, Robin & Gary. Lovely seeing so much care and pride in something that’ll never be seen!
Absolutely envious of all this excellent build quality and infrastructure.
Love old school tradesman like Gary, top fella 👍
Yes he is great!!!
Hey Robin........ Nice wee Sunday morning break required now...... perfect timing...... cheers
Great segment with Gary. A star is born 👍
He's an amazing guy and good friend and super brave to be featured, he has been creating amazing work for me for decades!! I'm super lucky to have him in my team!
Came back to this video as I’m just about to membrane over PIR prior to running clip track and pipe work for UFH and as per usual the work here is exceptional, also the details are covered sand all my questions were answered!! Cheers
Our first nu-heat was in 1997 (red twin pipe). Our second is coming in July 2023! Our only issue was the TRV and ultimately the control panel which I has to swap out for a wireless system. Not really a nu-heat problem but an issue related to a builder going through our control wiring. Our first choice was nu-heat before and again now. They have come along way in 25 years!
Great video Robin. very interesting and educational. Much appreciated
nice job Robin , preparations the key 👍👍😃😃
Just a little confused - at 21:31gary talks about the formers keeping the pipes down as he bends them up to the manifold. It's bit difficult to see but it looks like he is on a concrete floor, certainly not a DPM over Celotex or something equally as soft. So how does he attach them.? He says you need the formers because it is a tight radius but how do they stay fixed down and in place if there is not something substantial to fix them too.
You should be running your ufh on weather compensation not using a crap manifold mixing valve you could run that room at 30c flow temperature
👌Top work Robin
Lovely Job that Robin
Did you retrofit that onto an existing floor without lowering the floor and if so how much additional height had been added to the finished floor including covering?
"It's a lovely connection isn't it" 😂
What is used for hearing on the upstairs?
Hello Robin finding your channel very useful . I’m just at this stage now well starting to put the insulation down . I am also using the same company. For the heating system, but we are using an air source. Just out of interest, why did you use such a thick membrane under the pipe I’m using that under the insulation . then I was going to put the thinner green one over the top before the clip and track system . We just have interest or do you recommend doing both?
the cliptrack joints look just like scalextric track joints :) just a observation Robin :) :)
Dear Expert,
Thank you for the brilliant explanation. My question is whether we can install new laminate on top of old ceramics while using a wet floor heating system. Could you please guide me on whether this would prevent efficient heating conductivity, increase energy consumption, and how it might affect moisture levels? Additionally, what steps can I take to control these factors?
Best regards,
I would say that providing your system is man enough to heat the space in the first place then laying a laminate floor over the top should be ok, the following factors would need to be considered, check that the underlay and flooring is compatible with under floor heating, you may need a floor temperature sensor added to the underfloor room stat that will make sure the floor temperature will not exceed the flooring manufacturers recommendations, you may need to laytex over the tiles if the tiling is not that smooth and flat
Robin, love your channel, but all the talk of being accurate and then you go and install the pipework loops and take a different route back to the manifold different to the plans, hope you modify the plans "as installed"
I am preparing to install my own floor heating in my garage and I've got two questions: first, what is a distance between those stripes and second, I am curios to know what is a distance on the stripe between the pipes. Looks like 6" (15 cms). Thanks!
This very heating system is called "Ondol" in Korea and it started hundreds years ago.
Shouldn’t the DPM been installed underneath the insulation?
This is the separation layer not the DPM that was under the main slab
So u have 2 bleed the pipes.
What did you use for the separation layer? Cheers
This is a typical polythene DPM type material, it is 1000 gauge, we use this as it is readily available and very good value and cheaper than thinner gauges
@@ukconstruction thanks for the quick reply. All the best
Robin where abouts are you from just wondering what areas you work in
A solar pump helps will filling underfloor helps with wasted water just recirculates the same water 👍🏼
Been doing it that way for years. Handy for adding additives to.
membrane should be under insulation ?
This is not the DPM this is the screed separation layer
whats the reason for it ?
@@ukconstruction
It’s to stop any reaction between the screed and the insulation
And to minimise the chance of the liquid screed getting under the insulation boards which would be a disaster
Only UFH problem I came across was the client putting too thick of an underlay down. I think we had to find an underlay with a lower TOG which made me laugh as I thought they were confusing it with duvets😂
I think the UFH suppliers or designers can clarify what TOG underlay to use.
i'm afraid from any problem will be in future like shrinkage between Tile and adhesive , please any one give me feed back this procedure are safe
What's the expansion joint
The strip going up the edges to stop the cement spilling out and allows expansion of the cement as well.
RC not using a stick or two to set distances! The world is spinning off its axis!
Looks like one of the loops was mlcp and the rest were pert.
Been a plumber for 20 years. I used to use Nu-Heat but unfortunately they are hideously over priced! Most, if not all other UFH companies are significantly cheaper and offer just as good or better service.
Nu-Heat need to change their ways.
Hi Dean, I obviously price check and I too have found cheaper systems, I am personally the kind of person that sticks with what I know and the support and technical assistance that we get from Nu Heat is second to none, we also fully trust their specifications and we have had amazing results and energy usage based on well designed systems that we have fitted over the years.
@@ukconstruction yeah I hear what you are saying and that was exactly my attitude.
However, I have come to discover that there’s now plenty of UFH companies offering same customer experience but at half the cost (literally).
Unfortunately Nu-Heat are so far behind the times in regard to pricing, I can’t see how they are surviving?
To be honest, it’s strange how expensive they are?! Given that their products are mainly generic….. I.E mainstream manufacturers just branded up as Nu-Heat.
Too many ads.
That's UA-cam for ya
I hate videos where there is so much talking and very little doing - please to keep one's attention do the job and talk your viewers through it as you do it. Utter annoying when you talk and don't do.