3:45 If you have two rails, you can connect both of them, then cut the splinter guard of the freshly acquired rail to the end pushing your saw onto the second rail, then reattach/switch rails so the first becomes the second, and continue pushing your saw from the now first rail to the now second one, thus cutting off the previously non-cuttable start of splinter guard.
You’re dead right, at 5:50 I do exactly that. But I did also make the point that it really doesn’t matter if you don’t. I leave my untrimmed bits on rails all the time.
To be completely honest I paid £120 with £15 delivery. I was a bit too casual on screen recalling the price from memory. But yes when I saw Elsons price I couldn’t part with my money fast enough.
Great video! I'm curious how to make the Makita track saw cut the splinter guard so that the saw doesn't cut it more with deeper cuts. I'm new to track saws. I did an initial splinter guard cut at ~25mm depth (for 18mm material). But then, when I was cutting 40+mm material, the splinter guard was cut shorter. So now, for 18mm material, I can't use a splinter guard to align the track. I think it has to do with toe-in alignment, which The Tall Carpenter explained in his video. Depending on the depth of the cut, the front of the blade would be closer or farther from the splinter guard 🤷♂ I'm looking forward to the next track saw videos :) It would be great if you could explain how to make accurate cuts with a Makita track saw.
Thanks for the comment. I'm intrigued by this toe-in amount which is often discussed in forums and am going to look into this further. I have a couple of ideas in mind for an accuracy video to share some thoughts on this. I get questions all the time about my guides and their accuracy, but often respond with a point about consistency being more important than high levels of accuracy. Anyway, I will bear new owners in mind as I sketch that out.
Very good Karl! Everyone needs to revisit tracksaws every now and then... 👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Thanks Peter. I appreciate the comment. More to come…. 😀
Karl, Good to see you back again. Worthwhile watching thank you.
Thanks. I’m aiming for some more regular content in the coming weeks. K.
Karl--I have several of your track saw spacing jigs and they are great. Thank you for that! This was a helpful video as well.
Hey Roger. I thought I recognised the name. Thanks for the feedback and comment.
Nice to see you back Karl.thanks for the video I've just bought the Evolution track saw
Thanks. Evolution have some good stuff now.
Great video, thanks for the advice.
You’re welcome. Glad you enjoyed it.
3:45 If you have two rails, you can connect both of them, then cut the splinter guard of the freshly acquired rail to the end pushing your saw onto the second rail, then reattach/switch rails so the first becomes the second, and continue pushing your saw from the now first rail to the now second one, thus cutting off the previously non-cuttable start of splinter guard.
You’re dead right, at 5:50 I do exactly that. But I did also make the point that it really doesn’t matter if you don’t. I leave my untrimmed bits on rails all the time.
Really great idea. Im on a Bosch rail and would love something like that as its a bit of guess work getting the depth just right.
Thanks for the comment. And a few folk have mentioned that about Bosch before.
Nice video. Strange that you don’t have the best plunge saw, the 36v Hikoki.
Karl is back, nice to see, will you be going to the Harrogate show this weekend matey ?
Yes. I’ll be there on Sunday morning.
That's a great price, I've only seen it at about £300 before I think.
To be completely honest I paid £120 with £15 delivery. I was a bit too casual on screen recalling the price from memory. But yes when I saw Elsons price I couldn’t part with my money fast enough.
I just visited your website, I think you may want to update your depth stop listing to make it clear its at revision 9.
Hey thanks for pointing that out - a wee glitch with the update I made this afternoon.
Great video! I'm curious how to make the Makita track saw cut the splinter guard so that the saw doesn't cut it more with deeper cuts.
I'm new to track saws. I did an initial splinter guard cut at ~25mm depth (for 18mm material). But then, when I was cutting 40+mm material, the splinter guard was cut shorter. So now, for 18mm material, I can't use a splinter guard to align the track. I think it has to do with toe-in alignment, which The Tall Carpenter explained in his video. Depending on the depth of the cut, the front of the blade would be closer or farther from the splinter guard 🤷♂
I'm looking forward to the next track saw videos :) It would be great if you could explain how to make accurate cuts with a Makita track saw.
Thanks for the comment. I'm intrigued by this toe-in amount which is often discussed in forums and am going to look into this further. I have a couple of ideas in mind for an accuracy video to share some thoughts on this. I get questions all the time about my guides and their accuracy, but often respond with a point about consistency being more important than high levels of accuracy. Anyway, I will bear new owners in mind as I sketch that out.