Veneering Made Easy with Hide Glue
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- Опубліковано 1 лис 2016
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Here is veneering at its most basic. Hide Glue, Veneer, Plywood and a Sanding block. No expensive Vacuum Clamps, Presses or Equipment needed. I am in the process of making a chisel cabinet for the end of my workbench. At which I will be making (and filming) a household of furniture being made in our new show called "Room for Woodwork". As I was veneering the cabinet I thought some of you may like to see just how easy it is and maybe try in on one of your future projects. Cheers Steve
Opening introduction and licks by Justin Johnson
End Credits music Guts and Bourbon by Kevin MacLeod is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution license (creativecommons.org/licenses/...)
Source: incompetech.com/music/royalty-...
Artist: incompetech.com/ / - Навчання та стиль
0:12 Wait, wait, wait, I believe you buried the lead in the first 20 second of your video. You have a workbench and workshop for woodworking in the bedroom? That's true commitment to the craft sir. :)
Hi Joe, we surely did here is the channel ua-cam.com/channels/X4wxZPvkIhrv9oFtyIaAEg.html. Cheers Steve
Yea! Another veneer project!
Thumbs up for another great video. Thanks Steve.
Thanks, it was a spur of the moment ideas. Pleased you appreciate it. Cheers Steve
useful for veneering with hide glue, thanks
Pleased you liked it sina. Cheers Steve
Ohhhhh WOW the Doors look great :) I am looking forward to those videos :)
AAAhhhh the pressure! Not really, but I am looking for to making it. Thanks Kathy. Cheers Steve
Awesome information I always steer clear of veneer but now I going to give it a try thanks Steve. You have really great talent and I really enjoy your videos and always learning something new.
Thanks, nice to know. Let me know how you go with the veneering. Cheers Steve
Thank you for your videos! Very easy to watch and the way you teach makes learning fun and enjoyable! Please keep up the good work
Hi Steve, Thanks for the words of encouragement. I aim to do a lot more this year on my UA-cam channel. Hope you continue to watch and enjoy the videos that are uploaded. Cheers Steve
Hi Steve thanks for the feedback. really appreciate it. Cheers Steve
That was really useful, thank you
Thanks ScrapWood, appreciate the feedback and comment. Cheers Steve
Pleased you found it useful. Cheers Steve
You rock mate!
Thanks Vic, appreciate the comment and feedback. Cheers Steve
Sweet. Good lesson!
Thanks Willem, always good to hear from you as usual. Cheers Steve
You always make it look so easy Steve. Now you need some lemon, rum and a little hot water for that cold...cheers...richard from normandy
Good Advice. Cheers Steve
Thanks so much.Bless you
Many Thanks, Blessing back to you. Cheers Steve
I finally got to veneer my surface this way. It seems to have worked out just fine. Instead of gluing both sides to conteract the curling i sprayed the top surface with water, this worked just fine and less mess to clean up.
I had to straighten and condition the veneer beforehand as it was curly and brittle. A mixture of hide glue, alcohol and glycerin worked nicely for this, no cracks.
Great result. Thanks for sharing your experience. Cheers Steve
Nice job.
Thank you for the feedback it is appreciated. Cheers Steve
FINALLY someone makes a decent video on this subject! I've been wanting to try veneering but haven't seen it done at the basic level before
Go for it. Never did it until I saw Steve teaching it. And it turned out great!
Life can become complicated. So I'm pleased I was able to simplify one small part of it for you. Appreciate your comment and feedback. Thanks Michael. Cheers Steve
Well where's the pictures? Did you use the scraper? Cheers Steve
I'll get some pictures over to you. And already used the scraper and loved it. Much better than sanding it. Thanks Steve :)
Look forward to it Ruben. Cheers Steve
Thanks for that. Interesting that you may not need to clamp it down. All good. Cheers.
As I said not to sure if it will work with PVA. Also small bits I normally pop in the vice. But as you saw with larger pieces it works a treat. Cheers Steve
THIS IS SPARTA
Thanks, Cheers Steve
@@Woodworkingmasterclass Haha, it seemed like that's what you were about to say at 0:07 seconds of the video.
Brilliant video tho mate, thanks. I hada quick question. I'm wanting to get into using hide glue, I was under the impression that the open time was very short, but seemed like you were able to cover both surfaces and let them tack up then press them together almost like contact cement, is that how it works? And about how much open time do you have, using that technique?
@@jegr3398 That's the way I like to do it called, double gluing. Open time depends a lot on ambient temperature and viscosity of the glue. If you want more time water the glue down a bit which extends the coagulation time. It work on 2 fronts, temperature gives time so does water content, As it cools it starts to go off. Then the final part is the water evaporates. Hope that helps a little. Cheers Steve.
@@Woodworkingmasterclass Thanks Steve
Great Video! Can hot hide glue and veneer hammering be done using wood backed veneer?
Thanks!
You are more then welcome. Thanks for the post. Cheers Steve
Thanks Steve, very informative. I have been making veneered furniture for some years now and have always used pva and cauls and, of course, LOTS of clamps. I've always thought hide glue was messy and, well, just a lot of hassle: looks like maybe I was wrong.
You're not alone on that one. I was the same until I saw it in use about 20 years ago and that was when I changed. I not 100% Hide Glue there are times when PVA or even Contact Cement come into use. All depends on the size of the job, its application and whether I care or not! Interesting story, several years ago someone came and got some Walnut Veneer from me to do 2 x Jag Dashboards. One fella asked about Hide Glue and I showed him and the other said it was too messy and fiddly and he opting to use contact cement. Well 1st Qld summer the contact veneers blistered and peeled whereas 15 years later the Hide Glue one is still fine. Cheers Steve
Hi Tony, Best of all no waste the family muff loves the stuff. :) Cheers Steve
Great instructional Steve, and I love the pencil box series. I have a quick question about hide glue. What do you think of the bottled hide glue for those of us without a glue pot?
Pleased you are liking the Pencil Case series. Got to admit I am looking forward to making other stuff soon. As far as bottled hide glue goes, sorry can't comment as I've never used it. Pots are not to hard to find though. Cheers Steve
Thanks
Pleasure, Cheers Steve
Just found this channel. It’s like being taught woodworking by my uncle Dave if he were a woodworker. So Aussie. Does pva also form enough of a vacuum to create clamping pressure?
Hi Jason, No PVA does not have the same qualities of Hide GLUE so clamping is required and also when dry it is rubbery in consistency and takes a bit more time to clean up than hide glue does. Cheers, Aussie Uncle Dave (Steve) :)
Steve I'm so happy to see a left handed cabinetmaker since I'm one also, the funny thing is I'm an indicial twin and my brother is right handed go figure
The great thing for me was that the fellow that taught me fine furniture making was also Left handed and his shop was a joy to work in. And the other "right handed" students had to adapt. Cheers Steve
Steve can you help I'm trying to veneer a case with burled walnut and using hide glue but it gets very crumpled and warped. can you do a video in veneering burled walnut
Thanks Jim
If you can hang in there for a little while I'll put something together. Found some walnut in the shed. Just got to get a couple of other videos out of the way first. Cheers Steve
Dear Steve.
Thank You for the book recommendation back in June - "Complete woodworker". It sure covers a lot of topics.
As for the vanners - I have a small problem with glue stains on the face of the vaneer, which results in different shine after finishing. Sand paper doesn't solve the problem.
My ideas are either too diluted hide glue, which squeezes through the vaneer (I clamp it preety hard) or the vaneer itself.
Any hints?
Kind regards
Chris
I would suggest a Cabinet Card Scraper with a keen edge and hook. Cheers Steve
Really liked this thanks. One question,I had a go once and the glue in the pot and on the brush months later was still slightly rubbery as opposed to rock hard which makes me nervous glueing a decent item of furniture up in the future.what did I do wrong?
Hi Paul, Yes I would be concerned as well. Never had it happen to me so can't comment', it should become rock hard after a couple of days. Cheers Steve
could you expect the same results on a larger project, like a table top, I've rigged up a veneer press for table tops but it's a pain to set it up and tear it down, thanks
All depends how big the table top is and how fast you can lay it up and how many of you are they to get it done? Only challenge is keeping the glue warm enough. Best thing to do is try it and I'm sure you will come up with some modifications along the way. Cheers Steve
yeah its much easier and better than pva . I dont know why, but over the past few years the quality of pva glue has gone to the dogs.
must have something to do with the greenies😆
like always you made another good fun video.
Thanks for your feedback Peter and I agree. There are a few times I will still use PVA. However in the main it is Hide Glue. Cheers Steve
Great video!
Using a very thin burl veneer on a guitar, will there be any concerns with staining and clear coating? I did on with this veneer I have, a few years ago using wood glue, and the whole thing crackled and spiderwebbed.
A lot depends on the substrate you use. If Plywood no dramas as long as you go 90 degrees to the grain and do the same on the opposite side. Using solid timber can present some issues. Best of using 1/4 sawn boards and run the veneer parallel to the grain on both sides. If using solid I would use a zero creep PVA glue which would allow for movement between the 2 surfaces without cracks or splits. Finish should not present a problem (well not in my experience anyway.) Good Luck. Cheers Steve
Woodworking Masterclass thank you for the help. I am going to try a guitar again using your advice. I did use a LOT of the wood glue last try, but the veneer that I have is just so beautiful I have to try again.
Woodworking Masterclass side note,
The veneer I have is .73 mm thick, by my caliper.
Steve, where are you buying your hide glue, does it have to be kept hot all the time, does the hide glue that you can buy ready to use do the same job. Thanks
I buy it in bulk and it comes as little beads. You only mix & heat up as much as you want and it (despite what you may hear) can be reheated and used several times before it starts to stink! Then I clean out the pot and make a fresh batch. Can't comment of the premixed stuff as I've never used it. Hope that helps a little. Cheers Steve
Have you ever tried the titbond hide glue, which is ready to go without heating? It's probably much more expensive, but for me it migt be more convenient. Any experiences are most welcome.
*titebond &*might. sorry, stupid tablet keyboard.
you take one look at his shop and wall of tools and you ask if he has ever used Titebond? lmao
I'm starting to think 🤔 I don't have enough block planes.
Can the glue you heated with water be reused? Thank you for sharing
Yes that's one of the features I like about it. The ability to reuse it. Cheers Steve
@@Woodworkingmasterclass thank you. Best regards
I just bought an old glue pot like yours, how do I use it? Is there water in the outer pot? Is it ok to use on a gas stove top?
Hi Bobby, Yes water goes in the outer pot. Can't see why gas would'nt work. The reason I prefer an electric plate is that they can be thermostatically controlled. I like to keep my glue between 50 &70 degrees C. Hope that helps. Cheers Steve
Do you think I will have any problems with veneering a slightly curved surface this way? I am using about 0.5mm thick veneer.
No, this will work. Might have to hold the edges with masking tape until it set. See how it goes. Cheers Steve
Good. I am beginning to like hide glue since its so easy to fix mistakes with it - just apply heat.
That's why I like it as well and the fact it does not create creep lines after a while. Cheers Steve
How are the edges veneered? Are they done first before the top and bottom or after ?
Hi Dennis, I do mine after top and bottom have been done that way there are no edges visible from the end and side view. Hope that helps . Cheers Steve
Woodworking Masterclass, thanks so much for the quick response. A secondary question if I may. I can see from your video how you weight the veneer in place for good adhesion, this seems easy as you have larger flat surfaces. However, how do you do “clamp” the edges of the work if it is an inch thick and thus it can’t be weighted? Do you use a piece of scrap material, some wax paper and pipe clamps? As you can see by this “newbie” question I am just now beginning my woodworking hobby. Thanks again for the great video and the advice you provide.
@@dennispall1516 If it's a very thin strip only you can get away with using contact cement. Other than that with hide glue you can veneer hammer it and use tape to hold it in place. Or the method you described. Use scrap pieces as coulds and hold them in place over the edge pieces with clamps. Hope that gives you some ideas. Cheers Steve
righto, that's it. Time to go get me a glue pot...
Just make sure there are NO LEAKS in either pot. Check by separating them and filing them both with water. The one I use is a 1 Pint size. Cheers Steve
What happens when the veneer gets bubbles and ripples? Is the hide glue to thick?
There are various causes. Either to much moister in the mix, To thick, not enough pressure in flattening it out or just plain cranky veneer. Sorry don't have one simple answer for you Daniel. All can be fixed though with patience and a sharp knife. Cheers Steve
@@Woodworkingmasterclass I'm betting to much moisture. Thanks for the quick response!
@@danielbornhoeft7803 No problems. Pleased I could help. Cheers Steve
Would rabbit skin glue suffice, or should it really be hide?
Hi Mia, I'm guessing it would, I have never used it but have heard it being used for shrinking things as is tightens as it cools.. Try as test piece and let me know how you go. Cheers Steve
@@Woodworkingmasterclass thank you! I shall. 😊
What kind of glue you are using?
Hi Nikos, Hide Glue also called Animal Glue or Pearl Glue. Cheers Steve
Can I use my mothers coffeepot to heat the hide glue?
Better ask her not me. Doubt if it would be any good for coffee afterwards. lol Cheers Steve
Great, I am going to apply a bookmatched veneer to my first guitar building project. Hide glue seems to be a cheap, good and non-toxic alternative for this, and its ability to contract should be good for bookmatching veneers. I am using a very thing veneer 1/42" (0.6mm) and from i gather If i use a normal PVA wood glue on this thin veneer i might have problem staining the veneer afterwards. Hide glue however, they say can absorb stain.
Do you have any thoughts on special veneer tape? some say you should use it when bookmatching since it has the ability to contract (draw the pieces together when it dries), but its expensive so I am considering just using a transparent 3M Scotch tape.
You shouldn't have a problem with PVA as long as you sand it all off. That is one of the joys of Hide Glue it easily and will not give creep which is a huge (IMHO) drawback of PVA's. If you get stuck drop me a message. Cheers Steve
is the glue like what they call a rabbit glue .
Hi Baby Boo, Same but different. Rabbit glue, as the name suggests comes from Rabbits and hide glue comes from mainly cattle, or horses. Hide glue is much cheaper as well. There is also Fish Glue, Cheers Steve
Obviously the definition of ease does not include logistics of cost or availability.
To Quote Rudyard Kipling "Just So" Cheers Steve
There's another guy on UA-cam who made his own hide glue with a crockpot from dog chew toys. It worked surprisingly well. So maybe it's more available and cost-effective than you might think...