Rope Soloing Sweden's Hardest Offwidth
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- Опубліковано 6 жов 2024
- I climbed Sweden's hardest offwidth, rope solo. The route was originally climbed and given a Swedish grade of 6+. It remained unrepeated for many years until local strongman Petter Restorp repeated it. It was then decided that the orgainlly grade was a sandbag (or a joke?), and has since settled in the new guide book at Swedish grade 8 (American 5.12+)
I orginally climbed the route back in 2013, but as i've been doing a little bit of rope soloing recently and was back in the area i decided to give it another lap. I have to say it turned out to be a right little fight going around the final lip. 28ºc offwidthing and rope soloing don't really blend that well toegther, haha!
The route is known as Presenten (The Gift) and found in Bohuslän
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Legendary effort
Sheeeeeesh what’s up y’all :)
ooof storror wideboyz crossover FTW
please do a crossover can take storror crack climbing !!
Dialogue for this episode:
"10mins of Grunting"
"Spicy!"
"More Grunting"
hahah!!
"Absolutely dripping"
"That was good for me"
Damn, this is the most awkward thing that I've ever seen. And those tee cups, I can barely use them on a vertical crack but when it's that steep so you're almost upside down it's just no freaking waaaay...your pain tolerance is something beyond my understanding man. It's been a real feat, so astonishing!
Awkward is the correct word here 👍
This is such a tonic after being so bored and disappointed by the Olympic climbing. Rope soloing, trad gear and most importantly outdoors… Guys like Pete really complete the full climber package for me, able to ensure their own safety without bolting the stone, sending it outdoors, knowing what sort of rock it is and how to behave on it. What an achievement, not often I feel proud to be British but these guys are doing it right!
My wife who couldn't see what I was watching thought you were going into labour. Top effort!
😂😂
This video gets really spicy when you turn off the lights and close your eyes
(Great work Pete, you’re a fuckin animal :) )
Absolutely love the appreciation from the cockerel (chicken) when you stick the chicken-wing in at 11:14!
Pete is being like: mph... argh... huf... :/
Birds being like: chirp-chirp. ^_____^
Well done Pete. Great to watch after your tutorial on how to rope solo.
dude is an absolute unit wow well done
So let me just check if I got the rope solo thing right:
1)Get a climbing partner, who
a) has the same crack fetish as you have
b) is a girl, even better a girlfriend
2) Meet up for climbing
3) Give your partner camera and go through all the ropesolo struggle
Just joking, sick send, though it is bit absurd.
Haha exactly!!
I was getting back into doing a bit of rope soloing recently in preparation for a project that never actually happened, so it was really just for some practice and remembering what the heck to do 😅
@@WideBoyz WHAT WAS THE PROJECT?! Sverige?!
@@loveroos627 hopefully i can try the project next summer instead 😉
I also do ropesoloing - in small rather simple routes - from time to time. But seeing you hanging upsidedown in that overhanging crack really blows my mind. 😲 Great entertainment! 👍😄
That moment at 10:04 was intense man! The slip and the desperation for the right hand. I got a sense of relief just from watching when you pulled through, can't imagine what it must've been like in real life. Even though most of your guy's climbs seem brutal, It's impossible not to be inspired by the determination. Awesome as always Pete!
Wicked send! Thank Mari for capturing this for us, plus fly management lol
Nice with some climbing footage from Sweden! Hope you'll go a bit further south to Göteborg so I'll get to see sends from my local crags and get some inspiration 😁
Great effort Pete! Loved the juxtaposition between the sounds coming out of you and the warbling of the birds in the background!
haha!!
That was so amazing to watch. Dude you are a beast!! You are also an inspiration, thanks.
Relentless upward progress - that was freakin' brilliant!
Awesome camera angles!!
Nice job, Pete. Physically gut-busting; technically mind-frying. I've done plenty of rope soloing, often when establishing mixed rock/ice routes, and it's always a joy... when it's over.
What device do you use on ice? I think Silent Partners are not recommended due to the possibility of the internal locking mechanism freezing...
"I feel like I put a shift in" man i love Pete's humour
The dedication to rope solo so Mari can video instead of belay... Cheers, thank you for this. My whole body aches just from the stress of watching
Great climbing. Reminds me of my favorite route i ever did a first accent of down here in the dordogne, a 7c (i think ) roof off width. Some of those moves still haunt me today.
Such a cool video!
I always love to see an uncut Video of someone climbing, especially at this level!
#welovecrack
glad you enjoyed it, thanks for watching :)
Frick that was a shift in the foundry, fecking awsome and attacked by horse flys to break concentration too. Noticed Mari not saying till your shit was sorted and safe.
Defo a shift that one 😅
Sweet to see you working hard outdoor, I love it. I also like how you and Magnus get along, it would be cool to see you get him outdoor and trying hard on a crack, hopefully get to teach him/us some things about it. Then to see him get you on a hard sport climb, just to see the suffer. ha ha. Also I love it when you bring the girls and get them involved too. 4 super cool humans
Rope soloing the shadow is savage mate
I went to that crag and did this exact thing onsight. Except that my partner was belaying. And the route was Bästa leden i Valseröd (6-).
Absolutely insane send Pete
I think what really helped you through that climb, was the motivational rooster in the background hahaha
All Organs Blazing! ;P
Such a good one, love this stuff :D
That was so tough even watching it might count as Type 2! Great stuff Pete, love it 👍
here you go with an ä you can use to copy-paste Bohuslän to the correct spelling in the description :)
Thank you 😀
What a hero
Good effort Pete.
That looked chuffing hard, a cracking send.👌👊
Great effort Pete, really cool to watch! :)
I think you have the biggest gas tank of any climber. That was epic. Thanks for the upload
Great guys keep on, very nice shots also.
You know its spicy once Pete brings out the Elephant Sounds!
11:10 - That cockerel loves a good chicken wing!
Dayumn that was indeed spicy. Well done!
You are a real madlad. What a sufferfest!
You've inspired me Pete. There's an area with top only access that I have been going to to TR solo when I'm alone but now I think I'm going to try to lead solo the warm up. My current plan is to keep the rope fixed up top and TR solo my way up it as I learn the lead solo system the first time. Should be some glorious faff since I'll be using the same rope for TR solo and Lead solo, but its a 70m rope and a 70' climb so I'll have more than enough.
Good luck and be safe 😀👍
never cease to amaze
Damn! Good effort, that looked nails. The chicken in the background also cracked me up 😅
Awesome! I'm hoping to pop over to Bohuslan once covid restrictions have eased, nothing that hard but the rock looks amazing
yes the rock in Bohus is some of the best granite for sure
haha not your usual shift in the office, love it pete keep it up!!
Haha, I was in fits when he said "spicy"
Felicidades pete !
Excellent effort!
Absolutely incredible. When your leg was all the way in I was worried 😬😬 sounds weird I know.
good show!
@1:15 I thought Pete was wearing flip flops for a second with those white strips
Brilliant!
dude this looks so exhausting :O
Insane effort
1:28 Love seeing a Wide Pony in the wild
See, don't be demotivated by people telling you to work on your finger strength, this guy didn't have to crimp even once!
9:48
Amazing
Incredible vid:)
Thats just rad mate
Have you guys climbed on Isle of Skye (Scotland) on the cracks climbing at Staffin/ flodigarry/Kilt rock? Local guy have spent alot of time cleaning them up and it's high end stuff. Right up your street I would think. Great video as ever 👌
Pete "The Locomotive" Whittaker
Välseröd home sweet home !
good effort.
6:30-11 Minutes looks so fked up. But god dammit man you crushed it. Insane effort!
Taping the shoes... why did i not got the idea yet.
Thats great.
Good for velcro shoes. Although if I was recommending shoes for inverted Offwidths I'd usually say used laced shoes. I wasn't setting the best example here, haha
@@WideBoyz yeah i figured its because of the velcro.
I had the problem before, but i did not think about the tape.
5:10
You turned into a blueberry & strawberry vanilla icecream !
Mmm
Haha absolute tomato head going on...
Its insane, managing to do this when its 28 plus degrees. There is literally no friction on the rock then.
Reincarnated Houdini! 💪
That was a huge effort! Looked so awkward to climb.
I get real sweaty hands watching this
Awesome send! Will there be another collab with Emil? Now that he is going to travel around maybe you guys could meet (:
Yeh i think Emil is travelling now so maybe he can come and meet us in Norway. (I'm not actually in Sweden anymore, this footage is from about a month ago)
@@WideBoyz I would be psyched!
Is this route called the Hokey-Cokey. You put your left leg in, your left leg out........
If someone from the past saw this guy doing this they’d think he was nuts. That is kind of what I think.
Solid
i'm so torn regarding crack climbing, on the indoor videos with nice volumes it looks down right enjoyable but whenever i see an outdoor video it looks so painful and panic inducing and just horrible in every way imaginable :S props on u lot for doing it tho
6:45 What a beast
Welcome to my part of the world :)
"There's a horsefly on your neck" is easily top 5 worst things to hear on a 5.12c offwidth
great vid! mad skills and fight.,
I wonder how many people you've inspired to:
- not wear a helmet
- prioritize filming over safety
promise to publish the video if it ever goes wrong - a whole new meaning to 'sick send'!
Nice send
Great effort man, but you are a little crazy! ;-)
Absolute chad
My god, what are you doing boy 😂
No crack climbing course plan in Stockholm ;-) would be great to see a demo from the best :-)
Not at the moment unfortunately, sorry....
Well done Pete! A quick question - why did you use tapes instead of Wide Boyz gloves?
It's stick to his hand and he got better feeling from it, that's what i remember he said when he collab with Magnus
you in my homecountry! omg, one might hope i come across u at some local crag XD
haha yes i was. but this was shot around a month ago now, so i'm now back in Norway
@@WideBoyz omg, pete, :( now i have to go visit my sister in norway...
@@Theaddekalk 😅
Great send, Pete. All that junk between your legs, organs blazing… I don’t know if you know what teacupping is in some parts, but it’s clear it was good for you, as you said! Does UA-cam have Sweeps Week? And the commenter who asked a Sheffield lad about his pants… lol
i've never heard the term teacupping outside of crack climbing...but my mind wanders at the thought of what that means in some parts of the UK...hahah. crikey!!
Pants recommendation for offwidth climbing? Are those "bulletproof" jeans worth it? I've shredded all my prana softshell pants in offwidths, and I need something stretchy, breathable and durable. Maybe a little thicker and warmer is ok, but gotta be stretchy!
I lost my shit when the only thing he said was spicy out of know where lmao
Didn't know we had any in Sweden, this was sick! How do you find the routes, word of mouth or..? I'd love to go out searching for some
Nice video! Editing just keeps getting better
Yes usually just hear about these routes from films, word of mouth or just finding them in the guidebook when you arrive at a new area. I found out about this route from the film 'Crackoholic', which is a climbing film about this area in Sweden
Pete rope soloed the shadow?? Can we get a stem school?
Yes, University Wall (via the shadow pitch) back in 2016, when I was practicing for big wall rope soloing. There is actually a short chapter about bridging and stemming technique in my book 'crack climbing'
@@WideBoyz I was on the u-wall yesterday and got my ass handed to me that's why I was asking haha. I actually have the book, I'll have a look at it but videos are always nice 🙂
@@ryangamv8 oh cool! Good luck with it 😎
What was that back-up gear? I'm not up on all the ascenders.It almosy looked like a mini SP. i know it wasn't, but.
I do the three loops on individual lockers for backup when leading on my SP. But it is too heavy. Tried a grigri for back-up, but required too much more management. Then tried an Ushba -- and that freaked me out thinking "okay, so if the SP somehow fails will the Ushba just bite the rope in two?" Back to the heavy 3 loops on individual lockers. It's made me proficient at one-handed clove hitches hwvr.
i don'y have a back up device, the traxion i was using is to keep the weight of the spare rope off the Silent partner so it feeds nicely
That bloke's a nutter
Why bunny ears to anchor over just a fig 8?
My neck of the woods, where in bohuslän is it?
Can you re-climb this and film the stripping of the gear please?
I took the gear out on abseil. It's quite simple 👍