Hello! I'm still on my way to recover my steam boiler💪🏾! I found a technical friend who allowed me to take the machine to his workshop, despite not knowing the brand. So between your videos and comments, plus what this friend knows ... we are already operating 😎! Thank you very much for the wishes ... I promise to send photos and results ... good or bad ...
I bought one of these when I lived in Australia, it went into storage after one month of use and was in it original box for about four years,. It's been sent into to get descaled once and for two repairs in the UK however, the UK Breville/Sage repair dealer won't now service our Breville because it is an Australian model. Thanks for the excellent video, I will no doubt be doing this myself in times to come as well as replacing a leaking steam wand. Regards from the UK.
Breville DB are great machines when they work, but a nightmare when they don't. Parts are hard to get and service is difficult to DYI and expensive to take in. There are other brands out there that cost a bit more and have fewer features but have equally good performance and much greater longevity. Glad the video(s) helped.
Nice Video! Bought a used Breville Dual boiler today. Looks really bad inside but not that much scale built up. Just gonna replace some tubing… thanks for your videos!
when you say siphen, do you have some external pump to do that or by mouth? I am terrified of ever descaling my machine because twice the group head boiler stopped filling and creatd leaks. Lucky I am still on warranty From watching your video and readhing others experiences, I think the major problem is small particles of scale clogging small tubings. Ideally to avoid any clogging wouldn't it be best to manually put the descale solution directly into the boilers and not the tubbings and then manually flushing the boilers a few times as you mentioned by sipheing the water out? I also think its a great thing you mentioned by looking inside the boiler to see if there is any scale buildup this way you can see if its needed or not. Adding a solution as Breville suggests 4 times a year is not the way to go. I also found after descaling my coffee never tasted the same. now I know why. I am hopping that they will replace my machine altogether and then I will start it up the right way as I have learned. James Hoffmann said that when you know your machine is clean and has no scaling to run a 30 second shot from the group head and weighing it. do that once a month and if the water is weighs less then you know there is buildup starting. He also suggest using cirtric acid because its organic and you can easily taste the acidity if there is any left over. Look for his video on beginers guide to coffee machine maintenance. thanks for the help!
Extremely helpful video :) I just brought a dual boiler for cheap second hand not sure if its this model or the one with the ports. Either way your video is amazing :)
Hi, thanks for making this video. It shows how to drain the boiler, but what's the process for doing the actual descaling? I bought the descaler you recommended but I'm not sure what to do next. You say to "cycle the solution into the machine", but I'm not sure how to do that?
Fill the water tank with the descaler per the directions on the bottle then run the machine several times - use the brewer, steam and hot water functions repeatedly until the tank is drained. Then refill the water tank with fresh water and repeat using all 3 functions to flush the descaler out of the machine. You then have to manually drain the steam boiler per the tube/suction method described in the video.
@@322816 thanks! Do you use both bottles of descaler in one fill of the tank? The instructions on the bottle just say to "fill the tank" but say nothing about the ratio of water to descaler.
@@BenDavis78 I would use both bottles in one tank and dilute the descaler to 50% (1 part water per 1 part descaler). I recommend letting the solution 'soak' in the machine for a while after each cycle, i.e. run the solution through the brew head, then the steam wand then the water dispenser then wait 15-30min before repeating. It will take hours but will do a more thorough job.
Hi Joe, I finally got the machine properly descaled with the help of a little siphon pump. Thanks for the tips! The water that initially came out of the steamer boiler was almost blackish in color, but everything's crystal clear now. One problem I'm running into now is a low flow rate. I tested pressure using the silicone cleaning disc, and was getting up to 10 bars. However, when I tested a shot with coffee it only went up to about three bars. I tested flow rate by just running water through the group head and found that I got about 66 ml in 30 seconds. My research tells me that that's a low flow rate. Do you know the best way to find the source of this issue? Is it most likely the pump or could something be blocking the flow?
@@BenDavis78 It's not likely a pump problem if you're hitting 10 bar with the filter stopper. May be the solenoid valve, I'd pull it out and clean the tiny orifices. First though I'd just try a finer grind.
Great and very helpful video! Thank you for providing this to the BDB community Joe! I followed your instructions, emptied the steam boiler completely, but not the other boiler, as it's easier to exchange the water there. I then put the descale liquid into the water tank (warm water!) and turned on the machine. It started heating up, but stopped somewhere are 68° celsius and the steam boiler didn't pump any water and stayed cool, where as the espresso boiler got hot. I also noticed that on the tube, which connects the espresso boiler to the steam boiler a bit of water is leaking on the steam boiler side. Then I turned the machine off to prevent any kind of overheating or other problems. Is there any other procedure to start the machine then just pressing the start button in the case of descaling? And can you or anybody also give me hinters what the current behavior could mean?
Finally I managed to fix it by following these instructions: www.reddit.com/r/Coffee/comments/9zhl3n/bes920xl_steam_boiler_not_refilling_after/ Note however, that for my machine (BES900) after switching the machine on, I needed to quickly shuffle the steam lever to OFF and then back to ON to start the pumping
Hi. Thanks for an extremely well made and informative video. I wonder if you know the name of the large water hose that feeds water from the tank? Mine is degraded and I cannot find it anywhere on a diagram to order it! Thanks
Breville says to descale the machine every 3 months. Is it really necessary if you use Reverse Osmosis water with added minerals and not tap water? The first time I did it , i had to send the machine to be repaired because the group head boiler didn't want to fill up. Can you damage the boilers if the machine runs on standby a couple of hours a day? Great video!
Descaling is entirely dependent on how hard your water is (i.e. how much calcium is in it). You can go years without descaling if you have naturally soft water, and extremely hard water could create scale problems in weeks/months. I suppose their "3 months" is a safe one-size-fits-all timeline for them. Your RO water would not cause any scale but you mention added minerals so it would depend on how hard you're making your water with those minerals. The idea is to descale before you have buildup otherwise a chuck of calcium could break loose during descaling and cause a clog. The machine should be ok on standby indefinitely but you should check that with Breville.
I have the exact same dual boiler. For some reason after using it a handful of times at a gathering it stoped heating past 150. I’ve opened it up and checked/replaced the thermal fuse on both boilers. Checked for continuity after and on all the wires I saw. I know the steam boiler has a bunch of white junk and needs descaling but I can’t run the machine to descale if it doesn’t heat past 150. The hot water only works if it doesn’t heat up all the way. The steam wand doesn’t nor the buttons to make a shot. The steam boiler doesn’t heat up at all when you touch it. Just coffee boiler. Any idea what I can check next? I thought fit sure blew a fuse but I changed them. The big round white fuses with 2 wires running through them I didn’t change but if I touch both wires there’s continuity so I’m thinking they are fine.
Haven't come across this problem before. Perhaps a thermistor issue in the steam boiler - could swap with the brew boiler and see if the problem follows the thermistor. Extreme caution required not to overheat the machine if you start swapping or bypassing the temp sensors. If you end up replacing I can highly recommend ECM/Profitec, especially if you're handy enough to do the maintenance/repairs on them yourself.
@@322816 where is the temp sensor located and any idea what it looks like? I’ve gotten the steam boiler almost completely out to replace thermal sensor and I’ve done the solenoid valve so I think I’m handy enough to tackle it myself but if not I’ll get some help on it! I’ll ask Ben as well if he got it figured out
@@slavsquad If it's not a water level probe then it's a thermistor (there are many). Some are for temp control, others for overheat protection - not sure which is which. It could also be a problem with the main control board. Troubleshooting is going to be a crap shoot. Sorry I couldn't be of more help. You'll pay a lot for a Breville Tech to repair (they'll probably just want to replace the circuit cards rather than spend time trying to pinpoint the issue). If you can't get it going I recommend selling for parts and putting the $ towards a 'proper' machine that is serviceable and will last 20+ years. Good luck.
@@322816 thank you I will do that. I was also kinda thinking circuit board possibly. When machine is on I checked the red wire on the coffe boiler and touched ground and my multimeter showed power but on the steam boiler nothing
Mine is tripping the circuit breaker in my house after 10 to 20 seconds of pouring a shot. Shouldnt there be something that would trip inside the machine first.
Came across this old video and it has become a little outdate, stil lgood for those who have the old version of the machine, they have actually added boiler draining valves/screws to the base of the machine now! so no need to take machine apart :)
This was a great instructional video on dissasembling and descaling this machine. I will look to do this on my machine in the new year inlcuding replacing the solenoid valve which is faulty. What I could'nt work out is how you filled and syphoned out all the fluid from the boilers. Any chance you could please explain what method you used? Thanks
To siphon out I used a small diameter tube to reach the bottom of the boiler through one of the ports in the top of the boiler. I sucked on the tube (with my mouth) to start the flow then let it drain into a bucket on the floor. To add water back in (for rinsing) I used the same small tube connected to a larger dia tube that I connected to a large water bottle. Good luck!
Here's a crazy idea.. why not cut the cable tie holding the middle hose on the steam boiler to the distribution block and then pull the PTFE hose going to the steam valve? You've then got two longish tubes. take the drip tray, tools, water tank and tamper out, flip the machine over the sink and blow air into one of the hoses and watch the water shoot out the other hose.
Hi Joe, great video. I was wondering if you could help me identify an issue I have after running the scaling process. Steam is leaking out of the drain below and it gets worse when pressure is built up. Would you happen to know if there is a solution to this? I could extract coffee without issue with good pressure on the brewing side but I can no longer use the steam as the steam just drains via the bottom drain holes. Note that the drain access screws are tightly closed. Only happened after unscrewing the drain access and retightening during the scaling process. Could it be the solenoid valve or something else? thx.
I've had mine sitting aside for a couple of years and have moved on to an ECM machine. Much happier! Appreciate this video because it will allow me to get the machine up to snuff and possibly sell or just give it away. Hate to see it just sitting there. Breville charges too much for servicing and would never buy from them again, this is my second. To design a dual boiler with no thought to descallng says it all. Don't you think running multiple tanks of water thru the machine, maybe 5 or 6, would dilute the remaining water enough to use?
Can't go wrong with ECM, certainly a quality upgrade from the BDB. It's tough to ignore the value of the newer BES920XL (added boiler drain plugs and increased steam boiler temp). Every time I start evaluating upgrading to a Synchronika I'm drawn back to the BES920XL at only 30% the cost...would really like to do a side-by-side taste comparison.
@@322816 I was going to purchase the Synkronika at first but the much lower price for the Classika made it an interesting choice. Same brew group but less fancy case and not being a fan of milk based drinks, it won out. Completely happy with purchase with added benefit of quicker warm up and uses less power with just a brew group boiler. I got the one from Clive with the lever. Really seldom use that lever as I typically just add water from the brew group. Should have gone for the standard one from WLL. In my opinion, the Classika is without flaws! Just a few days ago I descaled the ECM. Wow, what a difference! I'm one of those users that hold off on descallng until I have no other choice. As usual, it's so easy and trouble free that now I feel guilty for waiting so long. Now, I'm going to tackle descalling the BDB without dissasembly.
@@Rick9482 I also took a long look at the Technika - I appreciate the quality and simplicity of the design (fewer parts to breakdown over time). You mentioned descaling your BDB without disassembly - once the descale solution enters the steam boiler it can only be removed manually. It's not like the Classika's boiler than can be fully drained without disassembly.
@@322816 Check out Todd's videos at Whole Latte Love. You get to see inside many machines. He has one where he changed out the vibration pump on an ECM machine in about 10 minutes. As to not dissasembling the BDB boiler. I figure addition rinse cycles would dilute any remaining solution to a minimal amount. If it doesn't pass a taste test on the water I would then proceed as you have done. Worth a try!
I have a brand new Oracle machine, heating up to 70c and stop heathing , the Breville support guy told me it is air in the valves circuit, that I need to rotate the unit in order to get rid of the air, but I guess any advice there ? I guess i need to access the valves, unplug the piping and purge the air...
Hi Joe, thanks for the two videos. My machine has started taking much longer time to heat up recently. In the past, it took only about 20 mins to get to 200F, but in the past few weeks, it has been taking 45 mins to an hour... at times, the temperature actually started to decrease and the boiler doesn't seem to be doing anything...do you have any suggestions? Thanks.
Could be the PID circuitry or heating element. Unfortunately neither of those are cheap/easy fixes. It could also be a thermistor. Keep searching to see if anyone else has solved the same problem. Sorry I couldn't be more help...
joe? in bottom left front of machine is black rubber piece, under it is two screws to drain boilers. the stuff on the bottom. one for each boiler/ why did you not use these?
Hi. You've described one of the upgrades they made on the 920 (those drains are there specifically to allow users to descale themselves). The original model (900) did not have these drains.
Many thanks for this and your other videos! It certainly allowed me to descale my machine and fix a pressure problem. The only thing left to do is to get rid of the "Service" message that shows whenever I turn on the machine (which prompted me to look into getting it serviced in the first place). I would like to reset it, but cannot figure it out. I went into the maintenance mode and have read the instructions for trying to reset the 920XL, but is apparently different for the 900XL. There is a reset or r3st option in the maintenance mode, but I have no idea how to activate it. Here's hoping anyone figured it out so I can remove the message (and hope it returns when it is time to do more maintenance).
@@ksastorm4738 Im having the same issue now, I bought used machine and it only gets to about 85 degrees and when at about 75, starts producing stream into the drainage tube leading into drain bin. Altough I didn't go ahead and try, I think what it might be is scaling in the "vacuum relief valve", the "nut" in the middle on the top of the boiler. Although different machine, there is a tutorial how to clean or change the part. I'll keep you updated once I manage to take it apart. ua-cam.com/video/L9P0t7__9ZM/v-deo.html
Hi Joe! I have a question! I have done the descaling process on my BES 920xl.... and now, I have water from the grouphead with no problems, but when I want to start the steamer I only hear 3 beeps, and even the indicator led light does not turns on. Someone told me that could be the thermal fuse of the steam boiler that I Need to replace... don’t you have a guide video of this procedure? OR how to get solutions to this trouble ? Thanks
I'm not familiar with the auto-descaling procedure on the BES920XL. I'm assuming you just followed their instructions, but if you opened it up and drained the boilers manually then I'd double check that you reconnected the probes on the steam boiler correctly.
Great video mate! Wondering if you knew what might be causing weak steam pressure on my BES900? I've taken the steam nozzle off and it's not blocked so I'm thinking it's overdue for a descale or the gaskets need replacing? Cheers!
First I'd check the steam boiler to ensure it's getting up to the proper temp (run the machine with the lid off and use an IR thermometer to get a temp reading on the outside of the boiler, should be around 250F). If that checks out then you probably just have scale buildup somewhere alone the steam path. Descale or remove the steam wand and manually remove the buildup. (I assume you already removed and cleaned the steam tip, otherwise do that first).
@@322816 Thanks for the advice mate. How would one remove the steam wand? I previously tried loosening the nut at the top of the steam wand where it attaches to the machine but it wouldn't budge. Also if the steam boiler doesn't reach the temperature are you aware of any culprits? Cheers!
@@bradgehring3296 I have the same problem my machine is beeping when I turn on the steam wand and it doesn't work. I have descaled using this video and tried to get that bolt off too but it doesn't budge!
Joe amazing video and thanks for the details. I am on my second BES900XL (first the screw in the filter broke off so they replaced. I am now getting a SERVICE message on start up but it still is functioning normally. Have any ideas? i would say this is nearing 5 years of daily use (1 espresso a day). I have cleaned timely and our water is not severe (hard). Thanks for any feedback
Haven't heard of this issue before. I suggest entering service mode (hold all four small buttons in while turning the machine on) to see if you get an error code, then google the code for a solution. Good luck.
Have you ever gotten dirty water from the steam boiler? The machine went 2 months without use. It is almost certainly rust but I thought the boilers werent able to oxidize? I have gotten the machine back to functionality and am not seeing anymore of the rust water. Curious if you have seen this and how you proceeded with the machines life?
Are you certain it's not scale? Scale buildup is not always white. I suppose it could be rust, odd as that would be, in which case you'd want to consider discontinuing use of the steam boiler (a new boiler would likely cost more than the machine is worth). The steam boiler design in the 900 is flawed in that the water entering the boiler does not replace the water that's in the bottom of the boiler. There's always 'old' water in the bottom. It can only be fully cleaned by manually draining the steam boiler. If you do replace the machine then I strongly suggest a more serviceable/repairable machine like a ECM/Profitec, Rocket, etc. Good luck.
How do you get those front screws out? It's a nightmare to get a screwdriver up in there and actually engaged. I can't imagine its any easier to put them back in?
I finally managed to get them out after about 20m of poking around. I didn't bother putting them back in afterwards since they don't seem to add a lot of value.
Did you ever figure this out? I have successfully descaled the machine, but trying to get rid of the service message.. Going into maintenance mode I found a reset function, but no way I can make it actually reset...
Good info re access to the boilers! But the procedure for charging and draining the descaling solution is omitted. You showed the descaling solution in the water box of the machine, so presumably you are meant to use the machine's clean cycle to actually get the solution through the boilers and tubes? Or maybe you just mean to turn the machine on after reassembly, and never flush beyond the boiler? Does this mean you should remove the ports, drain fully, reassemble, do clean cycle, remove ports *again* and drain? That seems onerous, particularly if you need to repeat. Or are you using the ports alone to charge and discharge the boilers? Or is it possible to charge the boilers from the water box with the ports open & power on - I guess this is neither advisable nor safe. After watching a second time, I think your procedure is: * Drain boilers as far as possible without opening machine (how?) * Fill reservour with solution * Charge machine (how? just turn on?) Is it OK that the boilers are heating? * Wait for solution to dissolve scale (do you have recommendation on time?) * Flush through group head/water port? * Open machine as described and drain all solution from boilers manually) * Refill manually with solution if scale remains, and drain again manually * Refill boilers manually with clean water and drain several times * Flush through fresh water from reservoir out through group head & hot water port? Sorry to be pedantic but there seems to be lots of possibilities.
Same questions here. I totally understand from the video how to flush the boilers manually, but how do you actually run the descaling fluid through the machine? Is there a "descale" setting via the menu? Or do you just run the fluid through the machine somehow with the "clean" setting. A bit missing in the info. Thanks.
If your running fresh water at the end..it just puts what ever chemicals back in the boiler…. The last step should be just siphon the boiler after flushing the lines
I’ve run in to an issue and was hoping you could help. Pressure gauge was acting up so I took it apart, clog, and now when trying to reassemble it leaks from where the gauge goes in to that plastic elbow. I’ve tried new o-rings from Ace, old O-rings to test, and it all still leaks. Any ideas?
You could try adding a stainless steel washer on the hose before the oring. Some of the other hose connections have them. Hard to find so you might have to make yourself.
Thank you for the video! I need to replace the o ring on one of the tubes with the boot, but there is so much residue buildup that I can’t get the end out of the boiler. It’s completely stuck! Any suggestions? TIA
@@322816 thank you for the quick response! I just now managed to get it off! I did use a Q-tip like you said. And I whacked it a few times, lol. This loosened it enough.
I have this machine, thanks for the instructions. The water I just removed from my steam boiler is tea coloured, but inside the boiler looks like there is no need for a descale, looks clean. It's about 6 or more years old so it's quite surprising. I have the Cafetto Restore descaler powder, and I have put 500ml into the boiler anyway... I just don't know how long I should leave the solution in there before removing it. Any suggestions? The container of the descaler does not say.
I'd leave it in for at least an hour (with the machine on) then purge it through the steam wand. You might have to repeat a couple times if your boiler is badly scaled. The problem might not be scale buildup but rather just really old water in the steam boiler - this boiler never completely empties itself. Either way it's a good idea to run some descaling solution through it.
Joe K Thanks for the reply. I didn’t know to have the machine on while using the rescale solution. I just left it sit in there for around an hour, drained it and refilled it and drained it again (with descaler) - no scale in the boilers, just old honey/tea coloured water. And the brew boiler was immaculate. I flushed it with fresh water a few times and then tasted the water coming out - I shook it in a bottle first to see if it bubbled - and all good. Thanks for the tips.
Hi! With a softening filter installed that is recharged every month or so, how often do you reckon I'll have to go through this procedure if I have on average 20 cups/week? It seems a bit daunting (I have a Expobar Brewtus IV on the way, my first dual boiler). when you have the descaling agent in the water and are running it through the machine, do you also steam with it to clean those pipes/hoses? Thanks for a great video!
It all depends on your water chemistry. If your water is very hard then you may have to descale quarterly, if it's fairly soft to begin with then you may never have to descale. If you see any sign of scale build-up, particularly at the end of the hot water dispenser, then descale right away.
@@322816 fantastic! Just found out yesterday that where I live water is considered "soft" (bottom third of relevant scale). this'll save me a lot of headache. also, on top of the water softener filter included with the expobar I use a floating bad in the dispenser. both of which I'll make sure to change/recharge (btw, can you recharge the pillows?)
Hi Joe - I have a sage BES870UK Barrista Express Espresso machine which looks exactly the same on the outside as your Breville in this video. ive watched your video re OPV/valves. ive spent a good few hours descaling manually from the rear of the unit which has improved flow slightly. ive taken a few photos of the unit and am also happy to take a video to show you what problems im experiencing. I'd really just love to get your opinion on what the problem might be. I dont have this unit covered under warrentee. I do not get hot water or steam, unless i completely compress the "OPV to Drip tray" pipe. if i run an espresso shot. i get about 5ml of water in the cup , the rest goes straight to drip tray. ( again if i squeeze/block the opv to drip tray pipe i get more water in cup.) I do not get any water when running 2 dbl espresso shot. please let me know if you'd be interested in casting a second pair of eyes and how i can get in touch privately. Kind Regards. Chilli
Sounds like your OPV is either set way too low or not working properly. Try adjusting it per my Solenoid/OPV video (it's quick and easy to do). If that doesn't work then I'd remove and dismantle the OPV to see if you can find the source of the malfunction. If that still doesn't do it then replace the OPV - if you can't find the OEM part then you can make it work with a brass OPV (I once stumbled across instructions online explaining the parts and procedure).
Ok i do have a replcement opv on the way., i have adjusted the OPV open & closed, removed the plastic clip completely removed the pipe including spring and red rubber washer. cleaned the hole ensured i could pass a pin through the gap into the main chamber. then put it back together. its after this that i noticed if it is closed to much i get no water at all in cup. insert and 4 turns seemed to do the trick. my thoughts were theres to much compression in the coil boiler (or maybe limescale), so the pump cant push the water in to the boiler. in turn its bypassing out the opv in to the drip tray, so when i squeeze the pipe (block it from going to drip tray its forced to go in to the boiler. im going to get some descaler on the way home. try that, and also see if i can completely dismantle the OPV. and ill get back to you. hey thanks for your reply so far.
Hi Joe, so I don't have a dual boiler, I got the old best 860xl and have it for a good few years. So I descaled it for the first time using urnex descaler. Did as instructed and flushed out everything but I find small black particles coming out of both steam wand and from the group head. Is this scale or something worse like corroded metal?
It's not uncommon for white, green and black particles to be present if the machine has not been descaled for a long time. Not sure what the black is but I suggest you keep flushing/descaling until you're satisfied that everything (or nearly everything) is out. Certainly makes you wonder about how 'clean' the machine are at coffee shops - one more reason why you're better off making your coffee at home.
@@322816 yeah. Been flushing for 2 days. Did another group head back wash with the blind filter. The particles has decreased significantly from the group head. I can actually count the number of particles, maybe 4 or 5. I notice more coming out from the steam wand when the water comes out first. Maybe I must flush the steam wand more. Out of the steam wand, I see about maybe 10 particles at a time. What I did t mention earlier is that when I did the initial descaler, a blue-ish liquid first came out of steam wand. Also the water that I use is filtered water that dispenses from my refrigerator and I hardly ever change the charcoal filter from the coffee machine. I have to get some new filters for those. Wondering now if this water particles or even charcoal particles. Machine must just last a year and then I'll be happy to upgrade.
I have this machine and every time I turn it on it leaks all the water from the bottom slowly can u tell me what's going on I can still pull shots and use it but eventually it leaks all the water out
Once your machine is pressured it starts to leak - it's either a boiler o-ring, cracked hose, or hose connection. Check out my video: "Breville Dual Boiler O-Ring/Gasket Overview".
I have a probe on my steam tank that won’t come out. Have any suggestions? I replaced 2 pro o-rings but couldn’t get that 3rd prob to come out. Then my son broke the plastic on the top part of the prob when he was trying to get it out with a pair of needle nose.🤨 Also, do you know where to get a replacement probe?
This is a common problem. It's likely stuck due to scale buildup. Soak the top of the probe in descaling solution (for an hour) and scrape/wipe away whatever you can then repeat. You may have to repeat several times - be patient. Look up the part number on erepalcementparts then just search for a part supplier who has stock. Good luck.
@@322816 How did you remove the wire from the probe connector? You sort of glanced over this in the video as you mentioned you already loosened it. I’ve tried to carefully pull, but it doesn’t give.
@@martinkor It's a spade connector so you could google that to see how they work. If it's very tight you can use pliers but be sure to use pliers on both ends (i.e. female and male ends of the connection) so you don't stress the probe which could bend or break it. If that still doesn't work you might have to bend up the two curled metal ends on the female end of the spade connection - there are other videos on youtube on how to deal with a tight spade connector. Good luck.
@@martinkor I wouldn't say they were easy to remove by hand the first time but I was able to do so with some gentle wiggling. It's hard on the fingers but safer than using pliers. Once they come off they go on/off more easily.
Hi Joe - my DB trips the GFCI about 2 or 3 seconds after powering on. I replaced the o-rings (had a couple of small leaks) and solenoid (was buzzing) but with no luck. There are no leaks inside the machine. If I bypass GFCI, the machine works fine (but obviously can't use it like that long term) Have you got any suggestions on how to diagnose the issue. Thanks
Are you certain it's not your GFI receptacle? It could either be defective or underrated for the current draw from this machine, Otherwise visually inspect all the grounding points in the machine.
Got it working now thanks Joe - I just had to spend a lot longer with a hair dryer. the leaks I had were from the top of the steam boiler so I think some water had found itself into the electrics below the steam boiler - difficult to get to.
You could but that would be difficult and risky. The machine is heavy and awkward to handle, and you'd have to be very careful not to break the wiring harness that's attached to the top.
Joe, is there any risk of electrocution with these models (when obviously unplugged) - like, any capacitors etc that hold charge? Keen to dive into mine, but want to understand the risks in this regard. Thank you for the detailed videos.
If you're looking for longevity check out ECM Synchronika, Rocket R58 and Profitec 700. These are all more than double the price of a new 920 though the price increase is justifiable when you look at the difference in internal components. If my 900 stopped working (and was beyond DIY repair) I'd buy an ECM Synchronika. If you don't want to spend that much $ then checkout the heat exchanger machines from the same manufacturers - they can brew and steam at the same time (like on a dual boiler).
Thanks for the info. Im very unsure about the money thing, its hard to throw that much cash out. How many years would the breville dual boiler last do you think? Im really looking for a good option throughout college, and i already have a good grinder.
You should get 5 yrs with normal (one per day) usage. You may get up to 10 yrs if you're willing to do some repairs. Keep in mine that the popular Italian brands hold their resale value very well. Racilio Silvia (single boiler) is a very safe bet, it will last for >10 yrs and can produce a great shot once you learn to temperature surf. I used a Silvia (with PID) for many years and never had a single issue.
I purchased my BES900XL in December 2013. I have used it at least once per day. It is still working well, however I have just started to get a small water leak out of the steam wand as it is warming up, but it quits leaking before the machine is ready to brew. I'm also now finding that the steam wand's valve is starting to have some resistance turning so I'm sending it back to Breville for a full service. $349.00 plus tax. I still believe that this has been an excellent purchase.
I'm very grateful for your video. There is no substitute for listening to someone who's already done what you're about to do yourself.
Thanks for showing this. Very helpful.
Hello! I'm still on my way to recover my steam boiler💪🏾! I found a technical friend who allowed me to take the machine to his workshop, despite not knowing the brand. So between your videos and comments, plus what this friend knows ... we are already operating 😎! Thank you very much for the wishes ... I promise to send photos and results ... good or bad ...
I bought one of these when I lived in Australia, it went into storage after one month of use and was in it original box for about four years,. It's been sent into to get descaled once and for two repairs in the UK however, the UK Breville/Sage repair dealer won't now service our Breville because it is an Australian model. Thanks for the excellent video, I will no doubt be doing this myself in times to come as well as replacing a leaking steam wand. Regards from the UK.
Breville DB are great machines when they work, but a nightmare when they don't. Parts are hard to get and service is difficult to DYI and expensive to take in. There are other brands out there that cost a bit more and have fewer features but have equally good performance and much greater longevity. Glad the video(s) helped.
Nice Video! Bought a used Breville Dual boiler today. Looks really bad inside but not that much scale built up. Just gonna replace some tubing… thanks for your videos!
Fellow Canadian here, thanks very much for the video!
thanks very much for this video! helped me open my machine to replace a faulty solenoid.
when you say siphen, do you have some external pump to do that or by mouth?
I am terrified of ever descaling my machine because twice the group head boiler stopped filling and creatd leaks. Lucky I am still on warranty
From watching your video and readhing others experiences, I think the major problem is small particles of scale clogging small tubings.
Ideally to avoid any clogging wouldn't it be best to manually put the descale solution directly into the boilers and not the tubbings and then manually flushing the boilers a few times as you mentioned by sipheing the water out? I also think its a great thing you mentioned by looking inside the boiler to see if there is any scale buildup this way you can see if its needed or not.
Adding a solution as Breville suggests 4 times a year is not the way to go.
I also found after descaling my coffee never tasted the same. now I know why.
I am hopping that they will replace my machine altogether and then I will start it up the right way as I have learned.
James Hoffmann said that when you know your machine is clean and has no scaling to run a 30 second shot from the group head and weighing it.
do that once a month and if the water is weighs less then you know there is buildup starting. He also suggest using cirtric acid because its organic and you can easily taste the acidity if there is any left over. Look for his video on beginers guide to coffee machine maintenance.
thanks for the help!
Did mine last night and it is back working
Extremely helpful video :) I just brought a dual boiler for cheap second hand not sure if its this model or the one with the ports. Either way your video is amazing :)
Hi, thanks for making this video. It shows how to drain the boiler, but what's the process for doing the actual descaling? I bought the descaler you recommended but I'm not sure what to do next. You say to "cycle the solution into the machine", but I'm not sure how to do that?
Fill the water tank with the descaler per the directions on the bottle then run the machine several times - use the brewer, steam and hot water functions repeatedly until the tank is drained. Then refill the water tank with fresh water and repeat using all 3 functions to flush the descaler out of the machine. You then have to manually drain the steam boiler per the tube/suction method described in the video.
@@322816 thanks! Do you use both bottles of descaler in one fill of the tank? The instructions on the bottle just say to "fill the tank" but say nothing about the ratio of water to descaler.
@@BenDavis78 I would use both bottles in one tank and dilute the descaler to 50% (1 part water per 1 part descaler). I recommend letting the solution 'soak' in the machine for a while after each cycle, i.e. run the solution through the brew head, then the steam wand then the water dispenser then wait 15-30min before repeating. It will take hours but will do a more thorough job.
Hi Joe, I finally got the machine properly descaled with the help of a little siphon pump. Thanks for the tips! The water that initially came out of the steamer boiler was almost blackish in color, but everything's crystal clear now.
One problem I'm running into now is a low flow rate. I tested pressure using the silicone cleaning disc, and was getting up to 10 bars. However, when I tested a shot with coffee it only went up to about three bars. I tested flow rate by just running water through the group head and found that I got about 66 ml in 30 seconds. My research tells me that that's a low flow rate. Do you know the best way to find the source of this issue? Is it most likely the pump or could something be blocking the flow?
@@BenDavis78 It's not likely a pump problem if you're hitting 10 bar with the filter stopper. May be the solenoid valve, I'd pull it out and clean the tiny orifices. First though I'd just try a finer grind.
Great and very helpful video! Thank you for providing this to the BDB community Joe!
I followed your instructions, emptied the steam boiler completely, but not the other boiler, as it's easier to exchange the water there.
I then put the descale liquid into the water tank (warm water!) and turned on the machine. It started heating up, but stopped somewhere are 68° celsius and the steam boiler didn't pump any water and stayed cool, where as the espresso boiler got hot. I also noticed that on the tube, which connects the espresso boiler to the steam boiler a bit of water is leaking on the steam boiler side. Then I turned the machine off to prevent any kind of overheating or other problems.
Is there any other procedure to start the machine then just pressing the start button in the case of descaling?
And can you or anybody also give me hinters what the current behavior could mean?
Finally I managed to fix it by following these instructions: www.reddit.com/r/Coffee/comments/9zhl3n/bes920xl_steam_boiler_not_refilling_after/
Note however, that for my machine (BES900) after switching the machine on, I needed to quickly shuffle the steam lever to OFF and then back to ON to start the pumping
Hi Joe awesome video
Quick question, shouldn’t we get the descaler solution through the group head, water dispenser and the steam wand aswell?
Yes, run it through everything to descale the whole machine. The steam boiler is the trickiest and it will most likely have the most calcium buildup.
Hi. Thanks for an extremely well made and informative video. I wonder if you know the name of the large water hose that feeds water from the tank? Mine is degraded and I cannot find it anywhere on a diagram to order it! Thanks
Breville says to descale the machine every 3 months. Is it really necessary if you use Reverse Osmosis water with added minerals and not tap water?
The first time I did it , i had to send the machine to be repaired because the group head boiler didn't want to fill up.
Can you damage the boilers if the machine runs on standby a couple of hours a day?
Great video!
Descaling is entirely dependent on how hard your water is (i.e. how much calcium is in it). You can go years without descaling if you have naturally soft water, and extremely hard water could create scale problems in weeks/months. I suppose their "3 months" is a safe one-size-fits-all timeline for them. Your RO water would not cause any scale but you mention added minerals so it would depend on how hard you're making your water with those minerals. The idea is to descale before you have buildup otherwise a chuck of calcium could break loose during descaling and cause a clog. The machine should be ok on standby indefinitely but you should check that with Breville.
Thank you very much! Really helpful video
I have the exact same dual boiler. For some reason after using it a handful of times at a gathering it stoped heating past 150. I’ve opened it up and checked/replaced the thermal fuse on both boilers. Checked for continuity after and on all the wires I saw. I know the steam boiler has a bunch of white junk and needs descaling but I can’t run the machine to descale if it doesn’t heat past 150. The hot water only works if it doesn’t heat up all the way. The steam wand doesn’t nor the buttons to make a shot. The steam boiler doesn’t heat up at all when you touch it. Just coffee boiler. Any idea what I can check next? I thought fit sure blew a fuse but I changed them. The big round white fuses with 2 wires running through them I didn’t change but if I touch both wires there’s continuity so I’m thinking they are fine.
Haven't come across this problem before. Perhaps a thermistor issue in the steam boiler - could swap with the brew boiler and see if the problem follows the thermistor. Extreme caution required not to overheat the machine if you start swapping or bypassing the temp sensors. If you end up replacing I can highly recommend ECM/Profitec, especially if you're handy enough to do the maintenance/repairs on them yourself.
You could ping Ben Rombouts, he left a comment below with a similar issue.
@@322816 where is the temp sensor located and any idea what it looks like? I’ve gotten the steam boiler almost completely out to replace thermal sensor and I’ve done the solenoid valve so I think I’m handy enough to tackle it myself but if not I’ll get some help on it!
I’ll ask Ben as well if he got it figured out
@@slavsquad If it's not a water level probe then it's a thermistor (there are many). Some are for temp control, others for overheat protection - not sure which is which. It could also be a problem with the main control board. Troubleshooting is going to be a crap shoot. Sorry I couldn't be of more help. You'll pay a lot for a Breville Tech to repair (they'll probably just want to replace the circuit cards rather than spend time trying to pinpoint the issue). If you can't get it going I recommend selling for parts and putting the $ towards a 'proper' machine that is serviceable and will last 20+ years. Good luck.
@@322816 thank you I will do that. I was also kinda thinking circuit board possibly. When machine is on I checked the red wire on the coffe boiler and touched ground and my multimeter showed power but on the steam boiler nothing
My steam boiler not working after descaleing
Same here. Did you find a solution?
Mine is tripping the circuit breaker in my house after 10 to 20 seconds of pouring a shot. Shouldnt there be something that would trip inside the machine first.
Came across this old video and it has become a little outdate, stil lgood for those who have the old version of the machine, they have actually added boiler draining valves/screws to the base of the machine now! so no need to take machine apart :)
This was a great instructional video on dissasembling and descaling this machine. I will look to do this on my machine in the new year inlcuding replacing the solenoid valve which is faulty.
What I could'nt work out is how you filled and syphoned out all the fluid from the boilers. Any chance you could please explain what method you used? Thanks
To siphon out I used a small diameter tube to reach the bottom of the boiler through one of the ports in the top of the boiler. I sucked on the tube (with my mouth) to start the flow then let it drain into a bucket on the floor. To add water back in (for rinsing) I used the same small tube connected to a larger dia tube that I connected to a large water bottle. Good luck!
Here's a crazy idea.. why not cut the cable tie holding the middle hose on the steam boiler to the distribution block and then pull the PTFE hose going to the steam valve? You've then got two longish tubes. take the drip tray, tools, water tank and tamper out, flip the machine over the sink and blow air into one of the hoses and watch the water shoot out the other hose.
Hi Joe, great video. I was wondering if you could help me identify an issue I have after running the scaling process. Steam is leaking out of the drain below and it gets worse when pressure is built up. Would you happen to know if there is a solution to this? I could extract coffee without issue with good pressure on the brewing side but I can no longer use the steam as the steam just drains via the bottom drain holes. Note that the drain access screws are tightly closed. Only happened after unscrewing the drain access and retightening during the scaling process. Could it be the solenoid valve or something else? thx.
I've had mine sitting aside for a couple of years and have moved on to an ECM machine. Much happier!
Appreciate this video because it will allow me to get the machine up to snuff and possibly sell or just give it away. Hate to see it just sitting there. Breville charges too much for servicing and would never buy from them again, this is my second. To design a dual boiler with no thought to descallng says it all.
Don't you think running multiple tanks of water thru the machine, maybe 5 or 6, would dilute the remaining water enough to use?
Can't go wrong with ECM, certainly a quality upgrade from the BDB. It's tough to ignore the value of the newer BES920XL (added boiler drain plugs and increased steam boiler temp). Every time I start evaluating upgrading to a Synchronika I'm drawn back to the BES920XL at only 30% the cost...would really like to do a side-by-side taste comparison.
@@322816 I was going to purchase the Synkronika at first but the much lower price for the Classika made it an interesting choice. Same brew group but less fancy case and not being a fan of milk based drinks, it won out. Completely happy with purchase with added benefit of quicker warm up and uses less power with just a brew group boiler. I got the one from Clive with the lever. Really seldom use that lever as I typically just add water from the brew group. Should have gone for the standard one from WLL. In my opinion, the Classika is without flaws!
Just a few days ago I descaled the ECM. Wow, what a difference! I'm one of those users that hold off on descallng until I have no other choice. As usual, it's so easy and trouble free that now I feel guilty for waiting so long.
Now, I'm going to tackle descalling the BDB without dissasembly.
@@Rick9482 I also took a long look at the Technika - I appreciate the quality and simplicity of the design (fewer parts to breakdown over time).
You mentioned descaling your BDB without disassembly - once the descale solution enters the steam boiler it can only be removed manually. It's not like the Classika's boiler than can be fully drained without disassembly.
@@322816 Check out Todd's videos at Whole Latte Love. You get to see inside many machines. He has one where he changed out the vibration pump on an ECM machine in about 10 minutes.
As to not dissasembling the BDB boiler. I figure addition rinse cycles would dilute any remaining solution to a minimal amount. If it doesn't pass a taste test on the water I would then proceed as you have done. Worth a try!
I have a brand new Oracle machine, heating up to 70c and stop heathing , the Breville support guy told me it is air in the valves circuit, that I need to rotate the unit in order to get rid of the air, but I guess any advice there ? I guess i need to access the valves, unplug the piping and purge the air...
Did you find a solution?
I'm currently having the same problem and the heat is constant on 70 deg with the power button flashing
@@ksastorm4738 Hi, I solved the problem by pressing the hot water button , you can do it at any temperature , I guess that purge the air in the pipes.
Hi Joe, thanks for the two videos. My machine has started taking much longer time to heat up recently. In the past, it took only about 20 mins to get to 200F, but in the past few weeks, it has been taking 45 mins to an hour... at times, the temperature actually started to decrease and the boiler doesn't seem to be doing anything...do you have any suggestions? Thanks.
Could be the PID circuitry or heating element. Unfortunately neither of those are cheap/easy fixes. It could also be a thermistor. Keep searching to see if anyone else has solved the same problem. Sorry I couldn't be more help...
joe? in bottom left front of machine is black rubber piece, under it is two screws to drain boilers. the stuff on the bottom. one for each boiler/ why did you not use these?
Hi. You've described one of the upgrades they made on the 920 (those drains are there specifically to allow users to descale themselves). The original model (900) did not have these drains.
Many thanks for this and your other videos! It certainly allowed me to descale my machine and fix a pressure problem. The only thing left to do is to get rid of the "Service" message that shows whenever I turn on the machine (which prompted me to look into getting it serviced in the first place). I would like to reset it, but cannot figure it out. I went into the maintenance mode and have read the instructions for trying to reset the 920XL, but is apparently different for the 900XL.
There is a reset or r3st option in the maintenance mode, but I have no idea how to activate it.
Here's hoping anyone figured it out so I can remove the message (and hope it returns when it is time to do more maintenance).
Hello, did you figure out how to make the reset on the 900XL?
@@luiseduardo3718 I never did and traded in the device
Hey Joe thanks for this mate I've still got a problem my machine gets stuck on 63-71 degrees and dosen't get hotter than that any thoughts?
Did you find a solution .. ?
I have the same problem with oracle 980xl after descale process.
@@ksastorm4738 Im having the same issue now, I bought used machine and it only gets to about 85 degrees and when at about 75, starts producing stream into the drainage tube leading into drain bin. Altough I didn't go ahead and try, I think what it might be is scaling in the "vacuum relief valve", the "nut" in the middle on the top of the boiler. Although different machine, there is a tutorial how to clean or change the part. I'll keep you updated once I manage to take it apart. ua-cam.com/video/L9P0t7__9ZM/v-deo.html
@ben rombouts did you figure out what the issue was with you machine? Mine won’t heat past 150 degrees. Can’t figure out why
Hi Joe! I have a question! I have done the descaling process on my BES 920xl.... and now, I have water from the grouphead with no problems, but when I want to start the steamer I only hear 3 beeps, and even the indicator led light does not turns on.
Someone told me that could be the thermal fuse of the steam boiler that I Need to replace... don’t you have a guide video of this procedure? OR how to get solutions to this trouble ? Thanks
I'm not familiar with the auto-descaling procedure on the BES920XL. I'm assuming you just followed their instructions, but if you opened it up and drained the boilers manually then I'd double check that you reconnected the probes on the steam boiler correctly.
Bernardo, before sending it to Breville you could try manually filling the steam boiler, as I did in the video. Good luck.
Great video mate!
Wondering if you knew what might be causing weak steam pressure on my BES900? I've taken the steam nozzle off and it's not blocked so I'm thinking it's overdue for a descale or the gaskets need replacing?
Cheers!
First I'd check the steam boiler to ensure it's getting up to the proper temp (run the machine with the lid off and use an IR thermometer to get a temp reading on the outside of the boiler, should be around 250F). If that checks out then you probably just have scale buildup somewhere alone the steam path. Descale or remove the steam wand and manually remove the buildup. (I assume you already removed and cleaned the steam tip, otherwise do that first).
@@322816 Thanks for the advice mate. How would one remove the steam wand? I previously tried loosening the nut at the top of the steam wand where it attaches to the machine but it wouldn't budge. Also if the steam boiler doesn't reach the temperature are you aware of any culprits? Cheers!
@@bradgehring3296 I have the same problem my machine is beeping when I turn on the steam wand and it doesn't work. I have descaled using this video and tried to get that bolt off too but it doesn't budge!
Joe amazing video and thanks for the details. I am on my second BES900XL (first the screw in the filter broke off so they replaced. I am now getting a SERVICE message on start up but it still is functioning normally. Have any ideas? i would say this is nearing 5 years of daily use (1 espresso a day). I have cleaned timely and our water is not severe (hard). Thanks for any feedback
Haven't heard of this issue before. I suggest entering service mode (hold all four small buttons in while turning the machine on) to see if you get an error code, then google the code for a solution. Good luck.
Have you ever gotten dirty water from the steam boiler?
The machine went 2 months without use. It is almost certainly rust but I thought the boilers werent able to oxidize? I have gotten the machine back to functionality and am not seeing anymore of the rust water.
Curious if you have seen this and how you proceeded with the machines life?
Are you certain it's not scale? Scale buildup is not always white. I suppose it could be rust, odd as that would be, in which case you'd want to consider discontinuing use of the steam boiler (a new boiler would likely cost more than the machine is worth). The steam boiler design in the 900 is flawed in that the water entering the boiler does not replace the water that's in the bottom of the boiler. There's always 'old' water in the bottom. It can only be fully cleaned by manually draining the steam boiler. If you do replace the machine then I strongly suggest a more serviceable/repairable machine like a ECM/Profitec, Rocket, etc. Good luck.
How do you get those front screws out? It's a nightmare to get a screwdriver up in there and actually engaged. I can't imagine its any easier to put them back in?
I finally managed to get them out after about 20m of poking around. I didn't bother putting them back in afterwards since they don't seem to add a lot of value.
excellent instructions. Thank you. I can't get the "Service" message after descaling. Any tips?
Did you ever figure this out? I have successfully descaled the machine, but trying to get rid of the service message.. Going into maintenance mode I found a reset function, but no way I can make it actually reset...
@@dutchdatadude No. Still shows up at startup but it's a spare machine for us. Use it for fishing trips and cottage.
@@Mikefishtaker right, ok. Well, I guess I'll just clean it once a year or so.
Good info re access to the boilers! But the procedure for charging and draining the descaling solution is omitted. You showed the descaling solution in the water box of the machine, so presumably you are meant to use the machine's clean cycle to actually get the solution through the boilers and tubes? Or maybe you just mean to turn the machine on after reassembly, and never flush beyond the boiler? Does this mean you should remove the ports, drain fully, reassemble, do clean cycle, remove ports *again* and drain? That seems onerous, particularly if you need to repeat. Or are you using the ports alone to charge and discharge the boilers? Or is it possible to charge the boilers from the water box with the ports open & power on - I guess this is neither advisable nor safe.
After watching a second time, I think your procedure is:
* Drain boilers as far as possible without opening machine (how?)
* Fill reservour with solution
* Charge machine (how? just turn on?) Is it OK that the boilers are heating?
* Wait for solution to dissolve scale (do you have recommendation on time?)
* Flush through group head/water port?
* Open machine as described and drain all solution from boilers manually)
* Refill manually with solution if scale remains, and drain again manually
* Refill boilers manually with clean water and drain several times
* Flush through fresh water from reservoir out through group head & hot water port?
Sorry to be pedantic but there seems to be lots of possibilities.
Same questions here. I totally understand from the video how to flush the boilers manually, but how do you actually run the descaling fluid through the machine? Is there a "descale" setting via the menu? Or do you just run the fluid through the machine somehow with the "clean" setting. A bit missing in the info. Thanks.
You ever figure this out?
If your running fresh water at the end..it just puts what ever chemicals back in the boiler…. The last step should be just siphon the boiler after flushing the lines
I’ve run in to an issue and was hoping you could help. Pressure gauge was acting up so I took it apart, clog, and now when trying to reassemble it leaks from where the gauge goes in to that plastic elbow. I’ve tried new o-rings from Ace, old O-rings to test, and it all still leaks. Any ideas?
You could try adding a stainless steel washer on the hose before the oring. Some of the other hose connections have them. Hard to find so you might have to make yourself.
Thank you for the video! I need to replace the o ring on one of the tubes with the boot, but there is so much residue buildup that I can’t get the end out of the boiler. It’s completely stuck! Any suggestions? TIA
Q-tip and descaling solution (undiluted) and patience. Apply, wait an hour then wipe. Likely have to repeat several times.
@@322816 thank you for the quick response! I just now managed to get it off! I did use a Q-tip like you said. And I whacked it a few times, lol. This loosened it enough.
Hi Joe! How many bottles of the Saeco would you say I'd need? (since you've mentioned "a couple bottles"). Thanks!
Two was enough for me.
I have this machine, thanks for the instructions. The water I just removed from my steam boiler is tea coloured, but inside the boiler looks like there is no need for a descale, looks clean. It's about 6 or more years old so it's quite surprising.
I have the Cafetto Restore descaler powder, and I have put 500ml into the boiler anyway... I just don't know how long I should leave the solution in there before removing it. Any suggestions? The container of the descaler does not say.
I'd leave it in for at least an hour (with the machine on) then purge it through the steam wand. You might have to repeat a couple times if your boiler is badly scaled. The problem might not be scale buildup but rather just really old water in the steam boiler - this boiler never completely empties itself. Either way it's a good idea to run some descaling solution through it.
Joe K Thanks for the reply. I didn’t know to have the machine on while using the rescale solution. I just left it sit in there for around an hour, drained it and refilled it and drained it again (with descaler) - no scale in the boilers, just old honey/tea coloured water.
And the brew boiler was immaculate.
I flushed it with fresh water a few times and then tasted the water coming out - I shook it in a bottle first to see if it bubbled - and all good.
Thanks for the tips.
Hi!
With a softening filter installed that is recharged every month or so, how often do you reckon I'll have to go through this procedure if I have on average 20 cups/week? It seems a bit daunting (I have a Expobar Brewtus IV on the way, my first dual boiler).
when you have the descaling agent in the water and are running it through the machine, do you also steam with it to clean those pipes/hoses?
Thanks for a great video!
It all depends on your water chemistry. If your water is very hard then you may have to descale quarterly, if it's fairly soft to begin with then you may never have to descale. If you see any sign of scale build-up, particularly at the end of the hot water dispenser, then descale right away.
Yes, definitely run the solution through the steam wand too.
@@322816 fantastic! Just found out yesterday that where I live water is considered "soft" (bottom third of relevant scale). this'll save me a lot of headache. also, on top of the water softener filter included with the expobar I use a floating bad in the dispenser. both of which I'll make sure to change/recharge (btw, can you recharge the pillows?)
Hey Joe, great video! Thanks! Any chance you know how to clear to stored fault codes in the advanced menu?
Sorry, I do not.
@@322816 no worries!
Hi Joe - I have a sage BES870UK Barrista Express Espresso machine
which looks exactly the same on the outside as your Breville in this video.
ive watched your video re OPV/valves.
ive spent a good few hours descaling manually from the rear of the unit which has improved flow slightly.
ive taken a few photos of the unit and am also happy to take a video to show you what problems im experiencing.
I'd really just love to get your opinion on what the problem might be.
I dont have this unit covered under warrentee.
I do not get hot water or steam, unless i completely compress the "OPV to Drip tray" pipe.
if i run an espresso shot. i get about 5ml of water in the cup , the rest goes straight to drip tray. ( again if i squeeze/block the opv to drip tray pipe i get more water in cup.)
I do not get any water when running 2 dbl espresso shot.
please let me know if you'd be interested in casting a second pair of eyes and how i can get in touch privately.
Kind Regards.
Chilli
Sounds like your OPV is either set way too low or not working properly. Try adjusting it per my Solenoid/OPV video (it's quick and easy to do). If that doesn't work then I'd remove and dismantle the OPV to see if you can find the source of the malfunction. If that still doesn't do it then replace the OPV - if you can't find the OEM part then you can make it work with a brass OPV (I once stumbled across instructions online explaining the parts and procedure).
Ok i do have a replcement opv on the way., i have adjusted the OPV open & closed, removed the plastic clip completely removed the pipe including spring and red rubber washer. cleaned the hole ensured i could pass a pin through the gap into the main chamber. then put it back together. its after this that i noticed if it is closed to much i get no water at all in cup. insert and 4 turns seemed to do the trick. my thoughts were theres to much compression in the coil boiler (or maybe limescale), so the pump cant push the water in to the boiler. in turn its bypassing out the opv in to the drip tray, so when i squeeze the pipe (block it from going to drip tray its forced to go in to the boiler.
im going to get some descaler on the way home. try that, and also see if i can completely dismantle the OPV. and ill get back to you.
hey thanks for your reply so far.
Scale buildup could certainly be the source of your problem. Pull one of the probes out of the boiler and check it for scale.
how can i share an image with you ?
Best bet is to post a video and send me the link (you can delete it afterward).
Hi Joe, so I don't have a dual boiler, I got the old best 860xl and have it for a good few years. So I descaled it for the first time using urnex descaler. Did as instructed and flushed out everything but I find small black particles coming out of both steam wand and from the group head. Is this scale or something worse like corroded metal?
It's not uncommon for white, green and black particles to be present if the machine has not been descaled for a long time. Not sure what the black is but I suggest you keep flushing/descaling until you're satisfied that everything (or nearly everything) is out. Certainly makes you wonder about how 'clean' the machine are at coffee shops - one more reason why you're better off making your coffee at home.
@@322816 yeah. Been flushing for 2 days. Did another group head back wash with the blind filter. The particles has decreased significantly from the group head. I can actually count the number of particles, maybe 4 or 5. I notice more coming out from the steam wand when the water comes out first. Maybe I must flush the steam wand more. Out of the steam wand, I see about maybe 10 particles at a time. What I did t mention earlier is that when I did the initial descaler, a blue-ish liquid first came out of steam wand. Also the water that I use is filtered water that dispenses from my refrigerator and I hardly ever change the charcoal filter from the coffee machine. I have to get some new filters for those. Wondering now if this water particles or even charcoal particles. Machine must just last a year and then I'll be happy to upgrade.
I have this machine and every time I turn it on it leaks all the water from the bottom slowly can u tell me what's going on I can still pull shots and use it but eventually it leaks all the water out
Once your machine is pressured it starts to leak - it's either a boiler o-ring, cracked hose, or hose connection. Check out my video: "Breville Dual Boiler O-Ring/Gasket Overview".
I have a probe on my steam tank that won’t come out. Have any suggestions? I replaced 2 pro o-rings but couldn’t get that 3rd prob to come out. Then my son broke the plastic on the top part of the prob when he was trying to get it out with a pair of needle nose.🤨 Also, do you know where to get a replacement probe?
This is a common problem. It's likely stuck due to scale buildup. Soak the top of the probe in descaling solution (for an hour) and scrape/wipe away whatever you can then repeat. You may have to repeat several times - be patient. Look up the part number on erepalcementparts then just search for a part supplier who has stock. Good luck.
@@322816 How did you remove the wire from the probe connector? You sort of glanced over this in the video as you mentioned you already loosened it. I’ve tried to carefully pull, but it doesn’t give.
@@martinkor It's a spade connector so you could google that to see how they work. If it's very tight you can use pliers but be sure to use pliers on both ends (i.e. female and male ends of the connection) so you don't stress the probe which could bend or break it. If that still doesn't work you might have to bend up the two curled metal ends on the female end of the spade connection - there are other videos on youtube on how to deal with a tight spade connector. Good luck.
@@322816 thank you. Were your connectors fairly easy to come off by hand?
@@martinkor I wouldn't say they were easy to remove by hand the first time but I was able to do so with some gentle wiggling. It's hard on the fingers but safer than using pliers. Once they come off they go on/off more easily.
Hi Joe - my DB trips the GFCI about 2 or 3 seconds after powering on. I replaced the o-rings (had a couple of small leaks) and solenoid (was buzzing) but with no luck. There are no leaks inside the machine.
If I bypass GFCI, the machine works fine (but obviously can't use it like that long term)
Have you got any suggestions on how to diagnose the issue.
Thanks
Are you certain it's not your GFI receptacle? It could either be defective or underrated for the current draw from this machine, Otherwise visually inspect all the grounding points in the machine.
Got it working now thanks Joe - I just had to spend a lot longer with a hair dryer. the leaks I had were from the top of the steam boiler so I think some water had found itself into the electrics below the steam boiler - difficult to get to.
btw, why can't you just turn it upside down to get rid of the descaling agent?
You could but that would be difficult and risky. The machine is heavy and awkward to handle, and you'd have to be very careful not to break the wiring harness that's attached to the top.
@@322816 thanks for the feedbacks!
Joe, is there any risk of electrocution with these models (when obviously unplugged) - like, any capacitors etc that hold charge? Keen to dive into mine, but want to understand the risks in this regard. Thank you for the detailed videos.
Nah no problem for almost all the stuff you'll do inside the machine.
Hows the longevity been on this machine? ive been interested in the newer dual boiler, but am unsure.
If you're looking for longevity check out ECM Synchronika, Rocket R58 and Profitec 700. These are all more than double the price of a new 920 though the price increase is justifiable when you look at the difference in internal components. If my 900 stopped working (and was beyond DIY repair) I'd buy an ECM Synchronika. If you don't want to spend that much $ then checkout the heat exchanger machines from the same manufacturers - they can brew and steam at the same time (like on a dual boiler).
Thanks for the info. Im very unsure about the money thing, its hard to throw that much cash out. How many years would the breville dual boiler last do you think? Im really looking for a good option throughout college, and i already have a good grinder.
You should get 5 yrs with normal (one per day) usage. You may get up to 10 yrs if you're willing to do some repairs. Keep in mine that the popular Italian brands hold their resale value very well. Racilio Silvia (single boiler) is a very safe bet, it will last for >10 yrs and can produce a great shot once you learn to temperature surf. I used a Silvia (with PID) for many years and never had a single issue.
I purchased my BES900XL in December 2013. I have used it at least once per day. It is still working well, however I have just started to get a small water leak out of the steam wand as it is warming up, but it quits leaking before the machine is ready to brew. I'm also now finding that the steam wand's valve is starting to have some resistance turning so I'm sending it back to Breville for a full service. $349.00 plus tax. I still believe that this has been an excellent purchase.
I have had a few issues with my BES900. Knowing what I know now I wouldn't have bought this machine.
The Reef, were is it at
Dismantled and sold off a couple years ago when I moved. It was a beauty!