How to Fix Leaking Steam Boiler Probes on Breville Dual Boiler BES920 and Oracle BES980 / BES990
Вставка
- Опубліковано 5 вер 2024
- This is a video all about water level probes on the Breville Dual Boiler and Oracle machines.
It covers some technical details about how they work, then goes into how you can fix yours if you have a leak. 👇
Please like and subscribe to help the channel grow. Thanks.
Internal oring size: 5mm OD x 2mm ID x1.5mm CS
Having spent the last 5 yrs fixing these Breville machines, I have a fair idea as to what things normally fail and I also know it can be difficult sourcing the right parts - especially if you don't want to buy in bulk, so i've put together two kits that have all the parts i think you'll need to fix almost all common issues you're likely to experience - especially the ones that prevent you using your machine.
This is something that you can keep in your cupboard and gain some peace of mind from.
It also helps me towards funding my time to make these videos and hopefully help you save on service costs too.
🔥 - Dual Boiler Survival Kit:
www.ebay.com.a...
🔥 - Oracle Survival Kit:
www.ebay.com.a...
Thanks!
✅ - Upgraded O-ring Kit
www.ebay.com.a...
✅ - Triac Board Service Kit BES920 - Compatible with both 240v and 120v versions: www.ebay.com.a...
✅ - Solenoid Valve Service Kit for Breville BES900/920,BES980,BES990:
www.ebay.com.a...
✅ - Top Lid Latch Lock BES900/920/980/990:
www.ebay.com.a...
✅ - Steam Boiler Repair Kit:
www.ebay.com.a...
✅ - Steam Valve Service Kit BES900, BES920:
www.ebay.com.a...
amzn.to/3PQXBaE
✅ - Cordless Screwdriver:
amzn.to/3xyW8Q5
✅ - Energy Monitor (protect during descale):
amzn.to/3vBOnbA
✅ - Backflush Cleaning Disk:
amzn.to/4aMFgU9
Just wanted to chime in here and thank you for these videos.
After sending my oracle for repair from a breville approved service technician it came back with replaced o-rings but the probes were still leaking and the machine wouldn't heat over 70c. I was told it was a paperweight Thanks to this video I was able to replace the probes and identified the technician had put the old probes back in the wrong order, which screwed up the machines ability to read and manage boiler temps. Your videos are the best source of diy repair info on breville machines on the net and I really appreciate you taking the time to make them.
Thank you! A buddy just gave me his old BES990 that would randomly call the pumps after just a few cups were made. Figured the board was overheating after noticing excessive moisture from the rear vents, caught it before any of the Triacs blew, going to start with replacing all the o-rings. Didn't realize what a widespread problem this is for these Breville machines.
It is quite common on the older machines, but yours is likely 8+ years old, so any machine of that age would need some attention. Replace the seals, clean the probes and if you need to descale, then look into the manual approach on those older ones. Buying an older Breville is essentially taking on a hobby :)
mine constantly leaks from the top of the probe and i've been replacing these probes for years. It's always the same mode of failure. it's like its designed to fail . the other probes on the smaller boiler is sealed with epoxy so that never leaks. I've been epoxying (JB Waterweld) on the probe tips. they last an extra 1 year before completely replacing the probes. I now have to remove the internal O-rings. This is a great video!
That is unlucky! It sounds like you could've saved a heap of money over the years with a bag of those tiny o-rings :)
Fantastic vid. I found the best way to remove the old o rings was to use a sewing needle or pin. This way you could get them out without damaging the fine ceramic.
Great tip!
Very timely. Just ordered spare SP001820 through a third party and your video helped me replaced them. My ceramic housing was cracked. Thank you so much!
Thanks, glad it helped
How am I learning about this channel just now!? Thanks for the advice Mr G
Loving the insightful uploads keep them coming!, i took your advice you gave me from my last comment and i cut the cords of the old Triac Board on my 920 and replaced it successfully but now my machine is over heating and going over temp instead of stalling and not going to full temp, so looks like it was some other issue besides the triac board that is going on with the machine, temp numbers just keep blinking then machine just over heats
You can check which boiler is going over temp in the self check menu. If the new triac board is ok, then next thing would be the NTCs. Unplug all 3 from the main PCB when the machine is stone cold. Check ohms across each connector. the group and the steam NTCs should read about the same and the coffee will be different. reply with the values here and i'll compare them with mine.
its the coffee broiler, i also have a replace NTC for that, what would be the easiest way to replace the NTC? i have seen alot of videos where u have to take out the entire broiler to get under there and replace it, i for surely am trying to avoid doing that with some sort of swap out if possible @@BrevTech
@@thomasbasc9817 coffee boiler one is simple as it’s in the side. The group head one is more difficult as that requires you to take out the boiler
I'm back! Still with the problem with the probes. I'll be interested to pop an oscilloscope on the red and blue probes but from my comments on one of your videos, i've still got the silly scenario that after replacing the small o rings and emptying the boiler, the machine will no longer fill the boiler at power one. If I remove the red wire, it will fill so no issue there. If I hold manual and exit and plug power on, then press the front panel power button then it will go through the self test. 1, filling the brew boiler and 3 filling the steam boiler.
Then when I get HHH for the probes, it works as expected.
So, I know that the triacs work fine, I know that the probes sense because I see change from L to H. I know that the pump works otherwise it wouldn't fill and everything worked before changing the o rings.
There has to be a software issue such that something is not in the right state.
it wouldn't be a software issue i don't think as it would be read only. is the red probe being grounded for some reason? That's the only thing i can think of that would cause this. The probe is supposed to be isolated from everything so it doesn't make sense that removing the wire fixes this. Use an ohm meter from the probe to the boiler casing to see. It's not contaminated with descale solution is it? That would cause this, but would also need to be wet so probably not.
@@BrevTech Never descaled. Removing the red wire instigates a low condition on that probe and then when powered on it will overfill (steam valve open) because there's never a high detected. So it can't be grounded as the state changes correctly.
It just won't pump from power on unless the boiler is complete empty and then doesn't fill enough up to the probe to achieve HH thus the boiler doesn't heat.
Hence my cheat each time of manual self test to force the pump to run, it makes no sense!
@@djtaylorutube take the probe out with the wire still attached . Does is still register as a low condition?
@@BrevTech I'll try tomorrow, along with attaching scope. 🙂
Ok, it's FIXED! Stupid user error on my part. I was convinced beyond all doubt that I had the probes in the right location but I had inadvertantly swapped the short and long probes for high and low water level. So, although the menu panel was quite happily showing change in results and corresponding plots on oscilloscope, of course when powered on with an empty boiler, the fill would be to the low water level detected as the high water level.
My "temporary fix" or running the self test which activated the pump worked because it would then fill to the shorter probe in the wrong location and satisfy both probes in the right state.
Thanks for continually challenging my position as it gave me the motivation to return to this and think it through. With a degree in electronics and someone who fixes far more complex stuff than two water probes, I was overthinking the problem and forgetting the stupid human element.
😁
Just replaced the entire set on mine last week.$40 for three brand new probes.
Thanks for the video! Very helpful. I pulled the probe with blue wire connected and it was very corroded. I cleaned it with 800 grit sand paper but there is still some pitting. Should this probe be replaced? Also the red wire probes oring was still seated up in the ceramic body and not leaking. Do you think it would be fine to leave alone. The other two orings that were leaking were very loose within the ceramic body and easy to remove.
The blue probe will be completed submerged under normal operation, so i would say it doesn't matter about the pitting. If it were the red probe and it was badly pitted around the water level line then yes, replace it. As for the internal oring, I would replace all three if you have them all out and they appear to be about the same age. Peace of mind
Thanks for the video. On my BES920 ground probe the O-ring is so loose that I would suspect it was the wrong size in the ground probe. I have ordered some of the clear o-rings you have listed. This unit is fairly new and the probe had a little soft scale. I see you have to work a bit to get the O-ring into the ceramic top? Hope I don't have some strange odd part in mine.
Do you mean the internal (white) oring is loose? They usually last longer than 2yrs which is a little strange.
@@s3anuk Yes, inside the ceramic top (Next to the metal collar) of the ground probe (It looks more clear then white but). Removed the clip to move the ceramic top and it looked fine but too small? Will see when that replacement o-ring arrives.
Yea they might look ok but they would have shrunk a little
amazing video, comes just in time I've an oracle touch open for 6 weeks. I replaced the large o rings but couldn't understand why steam was escaping through the ceramic.
Any idea of the size of those see through O rings? I would order through the link but it has to come all the way from Australia with definite customs issues.
I saw you mention getting away with BS003 - I saw on a forum or another video someone recommending 4.5 mm OD x 1.5 mm
5mm OD x 2mm ID x1.5mm CS i'll add it to the description
You mentioned greasing the probes when putting them back in, it looks like just a tiny smear around? What kind of grease?
Silicon food grade
The new bolted probes are not backwards compatible right?
correct
The spade connector on my black wire has totally rusted, and broken off. Should I replace it, and if so, what part do I need to buy - can you buy just the black wire itself?
If it’s just the female side that’s broken yes just crimp another one on. It’s a 4.8mm I think. I’d probably order a new set of probes tho if they look too bad
I seem to have the same problem because I only replaced the blue o rings outside of the probe , would the red o rings fit inside the probe or would I have to buy a new size ?
No, you'd need to get the correct size, which is in the description.
@@BrevTech the upgraded o ring kit correct?
@@jonnathansanchez7004 No, I don't sell them separately i'm afraid - only as part of the survival kit, but the size is there for you to lookup.
So I just finished replacing the o rings, but now the machine won’t get up to temperature for some reason, it stays stuck at around 156 f , used to work fine before I replaced o rings , any ideas what can be causing this?
To be more specific, the steam boiler seems to be doing just fine, what seems to not be heating up is the group head
It’ll be the triac board. See my other video on how to repair it. Basically you’ll need to solder in a couple of components
Would buying a new ones solve the problem or should I buy the wires too. This issue has caused a lot calcination inside my machine and damaged the steam lever(it is super hard to move and down)
You won't need new wires, and the probes should clean up ok - unless they are really badly pitted. Do this once a year or so when you swap the o-rings. I have a video on the steam valve so i'd recommend taking it apart, checking the ball is ok and soaking it all in descale solution
@@BrevTech I will check that one out thanks
Ron nhỏ màu trắng mua ở đâu vậy bạn?
added in description
Hello! I just received the replacement probes (new ones). I did removed the old ones which were quite rusty. Now, I need to push it really hard downwards to be them in a secure them with the pin, however alone I am able to do it. Will have to get a friend to help with a flat screwdriver or something to create enough force for the space required for the pin locker. Is there something wrong with my steam boiler?
did they come with stock o-rings as some after market ones are a little too big.make sure to use plenty of grease is my tip. If you force them then you can easily damage the o-ring all together as they can tear
@@BrevTech they came with stock o-rings (blue ones) I will be using a lot of grease as per your recommendation
My brew boiler water probe head swelled due to the brew boiler overheating, and I can't pull it out. Now I need to fill the water manually by turning the water water spout knob. What should I do?
pliers? if it's swollen then it would need replacing anyway (they tend to leak) so don't worry about breaking it.
How to remove the probe from the espresso boiler?
same method, they are very similar. They are plastic tho so be careful as they can split
Is it ok to replace the silicone o-rings with nitrile ones? Can't find silicone o-rings of this size in the UK.
No, the max temperature for nitrile is 120c and your boiler will be above this
@@BrevTech Thanks for the reply. A bit weird these o-rings are metric, while all others are imperial. Is there an imperial that will fit in their place?
You might be able to use a bs003. Maybe that’s a better fit? I don’t have any to try
What size are the outer o rings?
BS010 i don’t have the dimensions right now but there are plenty of size conversion charts online
People put Breville on such a high pedestal it's hilarious to see the short lived garbage they crank out. I see more complaints about Breville leaks, rusting, etc. than all other brands COMBINED. Appliance grade junk sums it up and if they were so awesome this crap wouldn't have happened in the first place or at least rectified very early on.
You've got to remember they're generally a fraction of the price and sold at a much larger scale than most other coffee machines. Not saying the Dual Boiler can't be improved in terms of repairability and design, but it's a great machine for what it is.
get off your high horse. It's a 1.5k machine that functions like a 5k machine. It can last a long time with proper care and maintenance. Parts are cheap and easy to get and you can mod it to do so much more
@@pinkysweets It's a POS regardless of price and a $5K machine is no better than anything else in the right hands. People get caught up thinking more costly is better and the majority of them are simply clueless and lacking skill. Breville incorporates planned obsolescence as in the junk they build makes it 2-3 yrs then has to be sent back for their retarded service or you scrounge for proprietary parts that rarely exist these days. All that effort when you can buy a quality machine that will perform/last indefinitely and actually look like a quality machine. Breville machines resembles cheap ass toasters at best!
What is this mystical machine you speak of that will "last indefinitely"? I fix all types of machines, not just Breville and can tell you they all have their failure points - even the basic lever ones. Breville probably more than most admittedly, but that's because they are more ambitious than most in their design and features. imo
@@BrevTech Worked on quite a few as well, not Breville as I wouldn't waste time touching the things. I surely wouldn't call their design/features ambitious and clearly their issues stem from lousy engineered 'design' and crappy choice in parts. How many of those things need to take a dump within 2-3 yrs before those tards will implement much better o-rings/placement among other things? FWIW I also find it hilarious that people spend a ton on LaMarzocco machines which are clearly subject to specific parts failure early on. Have used/maintained a few on a commercial level and have never been impressed with the build quality or espresso capability from them. Definitely better brands out there with less hype and price!