Thank you for the informative video. I've been in equipment and vehicle repairs and servicing since 1968. Last week a friend brought me his fishing boat where the trailer had a few issues with lights and a failed wheel bearing, and he stated the engine was 'erratic' in starting. The trailer is taken care of, but I wanted to know about the ignition switch BEFORE I started any troubleshooting. The switch wiring let me know EXACTLY what I wanted to know! Thanks! 😁
I have an old 59 Star Craft with EJ 35 Hp I am restoring. It has the M circuit like Grandpas tractor but I needed confirmation on its function as I am rebuilding Wire Harness from scratch. Your presentation was the most basic and comprehensive. It's the off/kill circuit, why was that so hard for anyone else to say ? thanks much !
Kudos, Bud. Absolutely brilliant! I'm in process of replacing my BRP etec 90 ignition switch, and you pretty much nailed it all the way through. Thank you!
So gald I stumbled across this video, I just bought a used boat with a Johnson BRP ignition and of course no owner or user manuals, you just answered a bunch of my questions and questions I didn't know I had yet and I don't have to change my ignition switch like I thought I had to. Thank You!
Check for parts first. My part came with the wiring already plugged into a clip that simply unclips from the harness and clips right back in without having to pull most of the wires. There is a yellow wire with a red stripe that goes somewhere else (not part of the clip that goes into the harness, but still part of the ignition switch. Not sure where they go or what they are for, but just unplug from the old unit and plug into the new unit. My problem on my 2012 115 hp E-tec is that the nylon threads don't hold long and it is easy to strip. If you tighten the bolt too tight you can crack the unit. In my case, it started randomly shorting out the main engine fuse. Took a while to figure out what was causing the issue.
Had to replace my switch followed intructions but new switch wont work at all wondering if there a trick when replacing these a fuse or something i gotta replace as well. The old one worked fine till it broke into thousand pieces so i dont know if that has something to do with it
I had the same exact problem… the other thing is when I turn the key to the start position I’m only getting about 8 volts.. I have 12 at the red wire..
Oh I have something that sounds the same. Battery and starter and solenoid were a bit shot so replaced them. Only getting 9.8V to the power pack and service manual says it needs 11 volts minimum. Last thing they suggest is the switch. I’m getting like 1 ohms between the starter pins (red and purple for Memory). Anyone know what the expected resistance would be?
Thanks for the video. My switch just went out this weekend. I was able to turn to run and jump the solenoid to start. My switch looks like that but all of the parts diagram says it a different one. It currently has the round pin like yours. I got a question though and I can’t find it on the diagrams. Do you know what that little round thing above the switch is with 2 wires is that you see with the cover off?
Sure thing! It's tricky at first, but you'll get the hang of it. Hold the clip in one hand with the open end facing away from you. The side with the broader lip should be on top. With the other hand, use your thumb to push in and hold the spring-loaded center of the ignition switch (the round part where the key goes). Keep pressure on the ignition switch to keep it fully depressed while you work the safety clip onto the ignition housing. It will snap into a groove around the outer edge of the ignition body, and that broad lip around the top of the clip will take the place of your thumb and hold the spring-loaded middle part in the compressed position. That's it. You're ready to go boating! Be safe out there and thanks for watching.
I would just use hot glue gun and build a cone on it,once it hardens itll be airtight and water proof plus hold shit in place.just have to cut it out to remove for any upgrades.snooky pa.thanks i had bought a 40 johnson and guy cut right at engine side of red plug.talk about pain in ass.❤😂😂😂😂
Helpful video because I removed my switch before getting the new one and the new one didn’t have any instructions at all. Thanks for posting.
Thank you for the informative video. I've been in equipment and vehicle repairs and servicing since 1968. Last week a friend brought me his fishing boat where the trailer had a few issues with lights and a failed wheel bearing, and he stated the engine was 'erratic' in starting. The trailer is taken care of, but I wanted to know about the ignition switch BEFORE I started any troubleshooting. The switch wiring let me know EXACTLY what I wanted to know! Thanks! 😁
Thank you very much I was about to change my switch.
I didn't realize how it was.
After viewing your video I don't need to change my switch😊
I have an old 59 Star Craft with EJ 35 Hp I am restoring. It has the M circuit like Grandpas tractor but I needed confirmation on its function as I am rebuilding Wire Harness from scratch. Your presentation was the most basic and comprehensive. It's the off/kill circuit, why was that so hard for anyone else to say ? thanks much !
Kudos, Bud. Absolutely brilliant! I'm in process of replacing my BRP etec 90 ignition switch, and you pretty much nailed it all the way through. Thank you!
So gald I stumbled across this video, I just bought a used boat with a Johnson BRP ignition and of course no owner or user manuals, you just answered a bunch of my questions and questions I didn't know I had yet and I don't have to change my ignition switch like I thought I had to. Thank You!
From the Nederlands i thank you for this!!
Thank you for watching, Tom! Prettige dag! :-)
Very helpful thank you
Check for parts first. My part came with the wiring already plugged into a clip that simply unclips from the harness and clips right back in without having to pull most of the wires. There is a yellow wire with a red stripe that goes somewhere else (not part of the clip that goes into the harness, but still part of the ignition switch. Not sure where they go or what they are for, but just unplug from the old unit and plug into the new unit. My problem on my 2012 115 hp E-tec is that the nylon threads don't hold long and it is easy to strip. If you tighten the bolt too tight you can crack the unit. In my case, it started randomly shorting out the main engine fuse. Took a while to figure out what was causing the issue.
Had to replace my switch followed intructions but new switch wont work at all wondering if there a trick when replacing these a fuse or something i gotta replace as well. The old one worked fine till it broke into thousand pieces so i dont know if that has something to do with it
I had the same exact problem… the other thing is when I turn the key to the start position I’m only getting about 8 volts.. I have 12 at the red wire..
Oh I have something that sounds the same. Battery and starter and solenoid were a bit shot so replaced them. Only getting 9.8V to the power pack and service manual says it needs 11 volts minimum. Last thing they suggest is the switch. I’m getting like 1 ohms between the starter pins (red and purple for
Memory). Anyone know what the expected resistance would be?
Thanks for the video. My switch just went out this weekend. I was able to turn to run and jump the solenoid to start. My switch looks like that but all of the parts diagram says it a different one. It currently has the round pin like yours. I got a question though and I can’t find it on the diagrams. Do you know what that little round thing above the switch is with 2 wires is that you see with the cover off?
Please when connect the safety line you push choke , how you use choke ?
What if you have both black wire? Does it matter?
By pushing it in, isn't this the choke function?
Yeah it is you can hear it click
Also having troubles with connect the safety lanyard can’t get it to stay on correctly. Can you help me?
Sure thing! It's tricky at first, but you'll get the hang of it. Hold the clip in one hand with the open end facing away from you. The side with the broader lip should be on top. With the other hand, use your thumb to push in and hold the spring-loaded center of the ignition switch (the round part where the key goes). Keep pressure on the ignition switch to keep it fully depressed while you work the safety clip onto the ignition housing. It will snap into a groove around the outer edge of the ignition body, and that broad lip around the top of the clip will take the place of your thumb and hold the spring-loaded middle part in the compressed position. That's it. You're ready to go boating! Be safe out there and thanks for watching.
Do you have a link to that ignition switch/Killswitch?
They are on Amazon for about $23
Short?
Are you in Ukraine ? We can hear them bombing ..
I would just use hot glue gun and build a cone on it,once it hardens itll be airtight and water proof plus hold shit in place.just have to cut it out to remove for any upgrades.snooky pa.thanks i had bought a 40 johnson and guy cut right at engine side of red plug.talk about pain in ass.❤😂😂😂😂