It should come from the factory like this, yes... but once you get familiar with Creality products you will realize that there are many design oversights. Most of them you can live with but are still head scratchers and you wonder how they missed it if they test their own printers before releasing them.
If you leave the bearing block off the top of the lead screws there is a slight risk you might catch the top of the screw rods with loose clothing etc and accidentally bend one. They are also a good guide to how vertical the rods are and whether a shim is needed on motor mountings to avoid Z-axis binding causing banding on prints. The biggest problem with simple dual z axis systems is that the rod rotations need synchronising with a timing belt so that they can never get out of step, ensuring that X gantry level is always maintained.
Thank you very much for this video, it made installing my Aliexpress kit much easier. Worth mentioning: some Ender 3 Max units use a 480mm lead screw, not a 500mm. Measure the one that came with your unit and make sure to order a matching length rod. Mine uses the 480mm.
on the ender 3 max you can actually hide the psu under the bed(It fits perfectly)! all you have to do is remove the thermistor+heater cartidge wires from the area, and move the plug by unscrewing and mounting it elsewhere using zipties or smth
@@solondarville1020 I printed two stands with a bar on each side allowing me to square it against the frame and against the gantry. I tested against measuring distance with a ruler and the ruler alone got me very close. I am using an ABL/G29 bed leveling so if there is any misalignment it's corrected. Octoprint mesh viewer shows me a variation of less than 0.05mm on a glass bed which is incredible.
Great video and easy to follow, but I just couldn't get the stepper motor to sit flat, it kept lifting up and causing it to bind up. After a few tries I checked out the plastic part that screws to the motor was not square to the side that screws to the frame, as its plastic I assume its a moulded part and on one side there was a lump all the way down the length of it. If this happens just check it and file it down on the bad edge till its square, sorted now and works a dream, thank you
You forgot to mention a crucial thing when assembling the motor coupler. You don't want the lead screw or motor shaft to extend beyond the slot in the coupler and you DO NOT want them touching. BTW the actual slop in the threads of that Z nut is ridiculous. So much backlash...
Was my first printer bought of scamazon for 180 in 2021. then i got it that terrible Ender virus.. Dual lead screw's, CR Touch, SKR E3 Turbo, compiled my own firmware with the BL Touch, Dual screws, and sensor-less homing. It even aligns both steppers on the gantry automatically using the CR Touch. then i got "sick" Now bought a NEW Ender 7 off amazon for 250,- and just printed your CR Touch mount for it :P This time we go Klipping. bought a BTT Tab 7 , my Ender has the TCM2160 boards on it, not the ones you have.
great video, i installed my kit, but the motor is not working. i dont know if the motor is broken or i need to do some configuration on the printer for use it?
Any more details? Any noise coming from the motor? Is it jerking around or getting hot? You shouldn't have to change anything in the printer config or firmware
Just got my kit, though longer screw is still on it's way. Going by your video assuming I'm not doing any massively high prints, I can temporarily use the shorter screw until the longer one arrives, as there's no need to fix the top of the screw? Going to give it a try :)
@@EmbraceMaking Long screw arrived but I'm yet to install it. Short screw is fine and none of my prints are that huge. It's definitely made a vast improvement to my prints, it's almost like a different printer. Thanks for the great video, installation/configuration was very easy. Wondering what firmware you use on this printer, I have a 4.2.2 board with BL Touch and ages ago I went through compiling my own firmware for it instead of the ancient creality one. I had tried one or two others I'd found in the depths of the internet also but the one I did myself seems to be working okay, and if it ain't broke don't fix it!
I had installed a dual Z axis on my Ender 3 V2. I is the same like Ender 3. But i have not taken the original cable, because it could demage the drivers. I made the steppers parallel, so the current is ok and you dont loos a step.
You need to reverse polarity on one of the coils of your motor. Do a google search for identifying stepper motor coils and you'll need a multimeter to figure out the coil pairs
Hey I've followed your steps but I've got something wrong, when moving the z axis one side goes up and one side goes down, have I put the wire in the wrong place
The 2 middle wires are crossed on whichever motor is going the wrong way. Use an Xacto or something similar to get the JST connector female pins out and switch them.
I guess I should have watched the entire video before going this route. My enclosure will not (comfortably) fit the printer with the PSU turned 90 degrees. I will have to dream up another option
I just tried fitting mine and I can't seem to get them to stay level, the newer Z axis always seems to end up higher than the original when I auto home, any idea as to how I can fix this? Any help would be really appreciated 😊😊
Go to the bottom of this listing: embracemaking.com/products/creality-ender-7-triple-lead-screw-upgrade-kit-pre-order and click the link that says 'Levelling blocks I used in the video etc etc' and you can download the STL :)
True, so I guess at the end of the day you're always missing one part. For me I found it easier to just buy a lead screw as they are easier to get a hold of on their own than a PSU bracket from a kit
Was it an official Creality kit? Sounds like you've got your stepper wiring harness either plugged in backwards or it was pinned wrong / intended for a different machine. Did you get it sorted out?
@@EmbraceMaking yes...I was able to solve my problem the second lead screw wasn't seated properly in the coupler took me a few hours to figure out but I got it :p
Ive been needing this for a long time! IMO Creality should be providing this at no charge because its a design flaw.
It should come from the factory like this, yes... but once you get familiar with Creality products you will realize that there are many design oversights. Most of them you can live with but are still head scratchers and you wonder how they missed it if they test their own printers before releasing them.
If you leave the bearing block off the top of the lead screws there is a slight risk you might catch the top of the screw rods with loose clothing etc and accidentally bend one. They are also a good guide to how vertical the rods are and whether a shim is needed on motor mountings to avoid Z-axis binding causing banding on prints. The biggest problem with simple dual z axis systems is that the rod rotations need synchronising with a timing belt so that they can never get out of step, ensuring that X gantry level is always maintained.
followed all steps got everything installed correctly and ender 3 max is now printing flawlessly, thanks!
Nice! Glad you got it all together!
This is the best Dual Z Axis installation video on UA-cam, tysm! I finally got my upgrade to work :)
Glad it helped!
Thank you very much for this video, it made installing my Aliexpress kit much easier.
Worth mentioning: some Ender 3 Max units use a 480mm lead screw, not a 500mm. Measure the one that came with your unit and make sure to order a matching length rod. Mine uses the 480mm.
Thank you so much for your support and generosity! Thanks for the tip as well, I hope some people find it useful!
on the ender 3 max you can actually hide the psu under the bed(It fits perfectly)! all you have to do is remove the thermistor+heater cartidge wires from the area, and move the plug by unscrewing and mounting it elsewhere using zipties or smth
Got my kit today and I'll be using this video. Thank you for the well organized info!
Where you able to find metal blocks to help level your gantry?
@@solondarville1020 I printed two stands with a bar on each side allowing me to square it against the frame and against the gantry. I tested against measuring distance with a ruler and the ruler alone got me very close. I am using an ABL/G29 bed leveling so if there is any misalignment it's corrected.
Octoprint mesh viewer shows me a variation of less than 0.05mm on a glass bed which is incredible.
Great video and easy to follow, but I just couldn't get the stepper motor to sit flat, it kept lifting up and causing it to bind up. After a few tries I checked out the plastic part that screws to the motor was not square to the side that screws to the frame, as its plastic I assume its a moulded part and on one side there was a lump all the way down the length of it. If this happens just check it and file it down on the bad edge till its square, sorted now and works a dream, thank you
Glad you got it sorted out and good observation!
You forgot to mention a crucial thing when assembling the motor coupler. You don't want the lead screw or motor shaft to extend beyond the slot in the coupler and you DO NOT want them touching.
BTW the actual slop in the threads of that Z nut is ridiculous. So much backlash...
Was my first printer bought of scamazon for 180 in 2021. then i got it that terrible Ender virus..
Dual lead screw's, CR Touch, SKR E3 Turbo, compiled my own firmware with the BL Touch, Dual screws, and sensor-less homing.
It even aligns both steppers on the gantry automatically using the CR Touch. then i got "sick"
Now bought a NEW Ender 7 off amazon for 250,- and just printed your CR Touch mount for it :P
This time we go Klipping. bought a BTT Tab 7 , my Ender has the TCM2160 boards on it, not the ones you have.
Lmao bro you couldn’t have said I needed the longer lead screw at the beginning of the video? Fuck sakes man now I gotta run back to the store 😂
haha good point! sorry!
@@EmbraceMaking all good at least I realized before the store closed haha
great video, i installed my kit, but the motor is not working. i dont know if the motor is broken or i need to do some configuration on the printer for use it?
sorry about my english :S
Any more details? Any noise coming from the motor? Is it jerking around or getting hot? You shouldn't have to change anything in the printer config or firmware
Just got my kit, though longer screw is still on it's way. Going by your video assuming I'm not doing any massively high prints, I can temporarily use the shorter screw until the longer one arrives, as there's no need to fix the top of the screw? Going to give it a try :)
Yep the shorter screw can be used if you're not doing tall prints!
@@EmbraceMaking Long screw arrived but I'm yet to install it. Short screw is fine and none of my prints are that huge. It's definitely made a vast improvement to my prints, it's almost like a different printer. Thanks for the great video, installation/configuration was very easy. Wondering what firmware you use on this printer, I have a 4.2.2 board with BL Touch and ages ago I went through compiling my own firmware for it instead of the ancient creality one. I had tried one or two others I'd found in the depths of the internet also but the one I did myself seems to be working okay, and if it ain't broke don't fix it!
I had installed a dual Z axis on my Ender 3 V2. I is the same like Ender 3. But i have not taken the original cable, because it could demage the drivers. I made the steppers parallel, so the current is ok and you dont loos a step.
i brought a 3rd party kit but the cable included makes the new stepping motor goes reverse , how can I correct it? thks
You need to reverse polarity on one of the coils of your motor. Do a google search for identifying stepper motor coils and you'll need a multimeter to figure out the coil pairs
Need more videos for this model, do you have any suggestions on upgrading the motherboard? Mine burnt out
Could probably get away with a SKR mini !
@@EmbraceMaking thanks for the advice I’ll go check it out! 🙉🙈🙊
Hey I've followed your steps but I've got something wrong, when moving the z axis one side goes up and one side goes down, have I put the wire in the wrong place
The 2 middle wires are crossed on whichever motor is going the wrong way. Use an Xacto or something similar to get the JST connector female pins out and switch them.
I guess I should have watched the entire video before going this route. My enclosure will not (comfortably) fit the printer with the PSU turned 90 degrees. I will have to dream up another option
I just tried fitting mine and I can't seem to get them to stay level, the newer Z axis always seems to end up higher than the original when I auto home, any idea as to how I can fix this? Any help would be really appreciated 😊😊
So you're saying one side is moving higher than the other side?
Did you figure this out? I'm having the same issue!
@@candaceppool7829 did you get it solved? I’m about to install mine and I’d like to know the solution incase
What’s the size of the metal blocks you used? :)
Go to the bottom of this listing: embracemaking.com/products/creality-ender-7-triple-lead-screw-upgrade-kit-pre-order and click the link that says 'Levelling blocks I used in the video etc etc' and you can download the STL :)
I can’t find it :(
cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0628/8441/3673/files/BedBar.STL?v=1656044884
You can use an empty filament spool
Thanks for sharing!
My pleasure! Thanks for watching!
Cr10 dual z kit comes with 515mm lead screw. It works perfectly, just doesn't come with a psu relocation bracket.
True, so I guess at the end of the day you're always missing one part. For me I found it easier to just buy a lead screw as they are easier to get a hold of on their own than a PSU bracket from a kit
And 3d print relocation bracket
@@EmbraceMakinghi, did you just use one screw or you hace to change both?
I installed this and now my z moves backwards any idea on why
Was it an official Creality kit? Sounds like you've got your stepper wiring harness either plugged in backwards or it was pinned wrong / intended for a different machine. Did you get it sorted out?
Thanks
Thank you so much for your contribution Jacques!!
Everything that is not a tight fit will
Everything that is not a tight fit will what?
😂😂😂
i did tthis on my ender 3 v2 now its binding DX
Did you check your rods, are they bent?
@@EmbraceMaking yes...I was able to solve my problem the second lead screw wasn't seated properly in the coupler took me a few hours to figure out but I got it :p