A few observations for you. I would try to never apply force to a component or bend a component attached to a PCB. You will rip the back off the PCB when the PCB is weak or you are working on less modern PCBs. Luckily modern PCBs are very forgiving. Older PCBs can delaminate/bubble with too much heat, traces tend to break off easy, etc. When using wick if you use a shorter piece or a thinner wick and it will soak up less heat from the soldering iron. Also when going to remove the wick keep applying the iron heat that way it won't get stuck. You want to avoid moving the wick without the iron on it as it can solidify and rip things off. When wicking up solder I watch the solder being pulled into the wick to gauge if I have either saturated that portion of the wick or if it's finished wicking all the solder.
When soldering the bridge on the fuse I would hold one side with the tweezers and solder one side first. This will allow you to avoid it getting stuck to the tip. I would suggest stealing the fuse off the part board if it's good and making a note of it with some tape on the other unit. If you are going to bridge a fuse I suggest checking both sides of the fuse traces to ground before bridging. You want to check to make sure there is no short there. If unsure comparing values to the other board would be a safe bet.
I was thinking about grabbing a broken PSP but instead I picked up another switch lite that needs some work as well as a solar battery BMS. Always feels good to make something work again.
Great result in the end. Just a couple of tips for the switch removal. Low melt solder is ideal to use in that type of situation. As for refitting the switch, clean off all the pads, then add solder to just one of them. Mount the switch to the tinned pad and fine tune its position until happy with it, then solder up the other three pins. That way it ensures that it is mounted flush to the board. More tips to follow, Karl.
Great video! some sections were a little bit too quite for my liking and I started to wonder if my headset died on me 😅. Other than that, good work and really cool seeing the psp come to life. The PSP reminds me of the day me and my wife met for the first time so that console has a special place in my heart. Looking forward to what you come up with next :)
@@PainfulDwayne No worries, just trying to give some constructive feedback. I am not good at editing at all so who am I to talk? 😂. Audio was good, no noise and such, just a bit barren at times :)
@@PainfulDwayne Yeah, She was sitting at a cafe watching kill bill volume 1. her friend introduced us and she totally blew me of. "Challenge accepted" 😎
A few observations for you. I would try to never apply force to a component or bend a component attached to a PCB. You will rip the back off the PCB when the PCB is weak or you are working on less modern PCBs. Luckily modern PCBs are very forgiving. Older PCBs can delaminate/bubble with too much heat, traces tend to break off easy, etc. When using wick if you use a shorter piece or a thinner wick and it will soak up less heat from the soldering iron. Also when going to remove the wick keep applying the iron heat that way it won't get stuck. You want to avoid moving the wick without the iron on it as it can solidify and rip things off. When wicking up solder I watch the solder being pulled into the wick to gauge if I have either saturated that portion of the wick or if it's finished wicking all the solder.
When soldering the bridge on the fuse I would hold one side with the tweezers and solder one side first. This will allow you to avoid it getting stuck to the tip. I would suggest stealing the fuse off the part board if it's good and making a note of it with some tape on the other unit. If you are going to bridge a fuse I suggest checking both sides of the fuse traces to ground before bridging. You want to check to make sure there is no short there. If unsure comparing values to the other board would be a safe bet.
I was thinking about grabbing a broken PSP but instead I picked up another switch lite that needs some work as well as a solar battery BMS. Always feels good to make something work again.
Most of what you're saying makes perfect logical sense when I actually think about it 🤣
Honestly that wire can me so much trouble, I had to edit most of it out because they video is too long as it is haha
I'm going to grab more switch lites too I think. Still got LOTS to learn about them
Great result in the end. Just a couple of tips for the switch removal. Low melt solder is ideal to use in that type of situation. As for refitting the switch, clean off all the pads, then add solder to just one of them. Mount the switch to the tinned pad and fine tune its position until happy with it, then solder up the other three pins. That way it ensures that it is mounted flush to the board. More tips to follow, Karl.
Thanks Karl. You've been very helpful today 🤩 Hopefully see you in the next one
Great video! some sections were a little bit too quite for my liking and I started to wonder if my headset died on me 😅. Other than that, good work and really cool seeing the psp come to life. The PSP reminds me of the day me and my wife met for the first time so that console has a special place in my heart. Looking forward to what you come up with next :)
Thanks for the comment and feedback mate. Sorry about that, I'm still trying to learn how to edit and optimise audio 😅 I'll take that on board 👍
Also, incredible story about you and your wife. Glad I could bring the memories back for a moment
@@PainfulDwayne No worries, just trying to give some constructive feedback. I am not good at editing at all so who am I to talk? 😂. Audio was good, no noise and such, just a bit barren at times :)
@@PainfulDwayne Yeah, She was sitting at a cafe watching kill bill volume 1. her friend introduced us and she totally blew me of. "Challenge accepted" 😎
Great film choice 👌 hahaha the chase is the best part