I'm listening to this through my speakers within earshot of my lady. Can we make a gentleman's agreement that whenever mentioning prices, we cut it half and throw a wink in the video?
I've been handloading for around 25 years now and still learned a few things watching this one. Probably one of the best things about handloading is the new ways to learn!
16:18 You don't save money on any blasting ammo by rolling your own. If you're going to be a reloader, you have to WANT to do it, because it's absolutely work, if done properly. You have to be the kind of guy that really enjoys fiddling with stuff. The ONLY places you "save money" in reloading is: 1: ultra high quality ammo(mentioned in podcast), 2: ultra special custom ammo that is not available anywhere at any price(this is especially true for shotgun shells), 3: insanely rare or obsolete/ antique or wildcat ammo(basically things that you have to hand load for, or it ain't ever gettin shot). If you just want to get out and live that mag dump life, don't even remotely think about reloading. Buy whatever is cheap this week, by the case, and let your ghetto blaster sing.
There is another scenario where hand loading pays off: tailoring ammunition for a specific application. One example is .45-70 “Cowboy” loads that don’t kick much. If you can find factory ammo, it will cost a bundle. Another example might be tailoring a 230 grain .45 ACP load to be just barely subsonic in a 16” PCC. It’s within the range of +P ammunition, but it’s actually a lighter charge than any factory .45 ACP +P ammo.
BAAAARRRP! (sound of buzzer being pressed) INCORRECT!!. Wipe the original starting cost for a standard low-priced kit such as a lee anniversary which DOES EVERYTHING YOU NEED FOR QUALITY RELOADING with a few dollars added for whatever calibre(s) trim stems you want, add your die(s), a gas-torch(they're 30 bucks) for annealing if so desired, and forget all the other fancy bullsh*t add-on equipment the scamming manufacturers spend their days trying to convince you that's "needed" ... Now you've spent your one-off costs for your gear you've got it for all time... Now do your maths for 100 rounds (we'll go common 270/308 for example) add up your brass (truckloads of it 50 cents per case for once-fired) 100 primers, 100 projectiles, 4000-5500 grains of powder... DONE! You're now paying LESS THAN HALF-PRICE per round than shop-brought ammo. The more you shoot the more you save... Now if you're a hunter only (say,20-30 rounds per one two or three years.. bit less or bit more..) and just not into constantly slinging lead down shooting alleys, then yeah best just buy ya ammo from the shop...
Your standard ammo such as 9mm, 223, 308 - sure not really saving $. everything else YES you are saving $. and you get to pick which bullet you want and what speed you want. not really 1 of your catagories - 4570 as mentioned is a popular round its way cheaper to load ur own. Once you have fired brass and all you need is primer, powder, bullet its way cheaper even in 270, 3006, 45acp, 10mm, which are common rounds
I am one of the "Handloader" that is a down the rabbit hole doing everything to improve accuracy from neck turning to weighing primers and powder measuring to .02 of a grain!
I think its really important to go into it being honest with yourself as to what your reloading goals are. A competition shooter will have very different needs than a hunter might. As a hunter, if i load 100 rounds per year, i shoot more than i normally would. I can get by with a lower cost reloading setup. I can make premium ammo for the cost of the cheap factory stuff. I can mke it shoot as well or better than factory ammo. But most important to me is everything I've learned about ballistics and terminal performance as since i started reloading 4 years ago. But i do enjoy the nerdyness of seeing how well i can shoot my own ammo. And then the capstone was the 1st time i killed an animal i hunted with ammo that i made. That was cool.
I started slowly with camera gear when I first started with photography, and I don't regret buying entry level gear at first. It taught me to appreciate what I had, and to learn what would be required if I wanted to reach the next level. If someone starts with less expensive gear, they can always sell it later if they find they no longer need it. If, on the other hand, you start with a purpose in mind, and have a loftier goal (like I do, regarding reloading, though I have yet to start), I play on buying a Lyman 8 turret press that comes in the Ultimate kit at Cabela's, if I'm going to do it at all - because I don't want to buy a single stage press and have to swap out dies all the time, as that's a time sink I'm willing to spend the money to bypass. Just like anything else, I don't want to buy the most expensive thing out there, because I'm not independently wealthy, and I just don't need the top end stuff - but I don't want the cheap stuff either, because it won't last very long - but if I start by buying a good setup, and I love it, I will keep going, and I won't regret the $ spent. On the other hand, if I don't want to continue with it, I'll be able to sell that good setup for a reasonable price, to at least get some return on my investment. Edit: Erik Cortina mentioned that when he measures for seating depth, when lifting the bolt, he does it quickly, not slowly - and he explains why slow is not a good idea.
I have youst started reloading in Norway and finding info like this is difficult except for the reloading 101. So thank for the podcast have a nice day
Yes, this was pretty nuanced, but there are lots of us out here who LOVE it. Getting to hear two very experienced reloaders weigh in on what works (for them) and doesn't is priceless.
Personally I appreciate these kind of videos to remind me that no matter what I'm thinking I cannot afford to get into reloading to support the way I shoot. Thank you for your honesty guys.
The plus side to reloading... especially 308. You can tailor your round to what you're doing or hunting for and change things around as long as you keep notes and repeat, repeat, repeat. Bear defence to coyotes to edible hunts. Factory ammo is for one thing.
Need to pick a powder? Go to the Nosler reloading data and they tell you what powder was most accurate in their tests. The Sierra manual will give one powder for hunting and (sometimes) another for accuracy. When in doubt, call the bullet manufacturer. This conversation focused on hand loading bottle necked cartridges for bolt action rifles. I enjoy that myself, but there are other concerns when you’re loading for a semiauto rifle or a handgun. On the subject of equipment, I think the “buy once, cry once” approach only works for some people in specific circumstances. If you start with a single stage press, manual trimmer, etc., you will figure out whether or not you even enjoy hand loading. You’ll also learn what you want out of a “better” press/trimmer/scale… However, everyone needs a Forster Co-Ax single stage press IMHO. It’s simply a better mousetrap, and it was the last of 4 presses I bought. If I needed buckets of ammo for 3-gun competition, a Dillon progressive press would make sense but I just don’t produce enough of any one cartridge to justify that. I would encourage people starting out to try different things. If you got Hornady dies for .38 Special, try a Lyman set for the next cartridge. Buy a Redding Profile Crimp Die for a revolver load and see if you like what it does. I really like Forster die sets for rifle cartridges, but try Redding too. YMMV
I am currently working up a load for my daughter to use on her first deer hunt. I like that ammo can be custom tuned to meet performance metrics that may not be offered by factory ammo.
1:14:00 Runnout has been fairly well proven to not matter at all by multiple reliable sources at this point, including at least one 1,000yrd bench rest shooter. In the absence of the bullet being cocked 45 degrees off to the side, concentricity SEEMS like it should matter, but not 1 single person has been able to prove that it DOES matter, and anyone who has tried, ended up showing that it doesn't matter. Play with it if you want, but the overwhelming data shows that it's a waste of time and money to mess with runnout.
I now use to tumblers. First has Franklin Arsenal media. Does a great job. But plugs up the flash holes. After I size I throw brass in my second tumbler that has fine walnut media and some polish. Does not plug the flash hole.
I am in no ways an expert reloader, but I think my biggest piece of advice would be to remember to keep it fun. It is so easy to get overwhelmed with load development. Sometimes it’s easy to over complicate things that really don’t need to be that complicated. You will enjoy your reloading journey much more when you have fun with it!
Your process being stream lined to the most efficiency is KEY! FOR RIFLE - My process is - Dry Tumble, Deprime/resize or necksize, Wet Tumble, prime, charge, seat, crimp, finished i will wait till i have several hundred to do batches at a time, i DO NOT do small batches, i do large batches that way i get big lots that are ALL THE SAME. FOR PISTOL - i use a progressive - Dry Tumble, deprime, wet tumble, run thru progressive setup - expand, prime, charge, seat, crimp, finished. Again wait till i have a LOT to do so i have big batches so they are all the same in that lot. Once you have your Dies setup to how you want them, it should be rinse and repeat. Trimming is only after so many firings its to long and needs it. Rifle Brass i keep track of how many firings. pistol i do not. FOR RIFLE - Weighing each bullet - i do this for my match accurate rounds, for bulk loading i do not weigh i just load and go. Hornady did a great video and he said brass length being all the same does NOT matter for accuracy, they did testing on it. Brass - using the same head stamp matters. Crimping - i crimp all rifle and pistol. it helps keep everything uniform and only helps and does not hurt anything All in All - pick what brand equipment you want and learn it, pick the Dies and set them up, pick your bullet, load, and have fun and be safe LOADING IS NOT FAST, TAKE YOUR TIME, BE SAFE, hurrying only creates misteps, mistakes and problems, and you will get hurt! TAKE YOUR TIME, PAY ATTENTION
What would you consider as one of the most important aspects of reloading, is it Good Brass prep ?(Resizing, cleaning, trimming, annealing etc..) , Consistent powder charges? Consistent neck tension? Or is it all of the above?
It’s really hard to pick one to be honest. I think all of the things you mentioned are almost equally impt. If I had to pick one, I would say the brass prep. If you in load a few of the same lot of factory rounds, typically there is quite the variance in powder weights. As long as you’re in the node, you won’t see a ton of fps variance. I used much cheaper and less accurate powder measure/dispensers for a long time and still produced good results. I’d say brass prep is the bigger of the lot! Good luck!
I have a confession to make, I only got into reloading so I could justify purchasing more guns. I used it as an excuse to afford ammo for older or obscure cartridges. With that factored in, it has done the exact opposite of saving me money.
@joshkrebs1999 Josh, we selected your comment as the comment of the week. Just keep reloading and the financial component will work itself out:) Shoot us an email at socialmedia@vortexoptics.com and well get to work getting your very own Vortex Nation Podcast Hoodie headed your way!
@VortexNation Thank you! To answer your question, Mark, I'll say, " Yeah, they say two thousand zero zero Party over, oops out of time So tonight I'm gonna party like it's 1999"
Great show on reloading you can always learn something new one thing I would suggest for us people who use single-stage presses make sure you dedicate your shell holder to your die because they very in thicknesses
Tucker was spot on about setting up the resizer die to minimize over working your brass but at the end of his explanation he called it the seater which im sure he meant resizer die, seater die is for bullet seating ,
Great info and tips! Got into reloading because Mark I believe bigger is better and I "just hunt" Wisconsin whitetails with a 30-378 Weatherby. Definitely cut down on cost of dropping the hammer on the stand cannon.
That could be covered in 10 seconds. Pros: terminal performance is usually insanely good(is you pick the right one), they have a higher potential for penetrating armor(again pick the right one and get it going mach Jesus) Cons: expensive as sin, precision is luke warm at best on a good day. If you're doing close work(less than 100) not a bad choice other than price. Past that, depending on how much precision matters, there are better options. If minute of man out to 400 is what you're looking for(4 MOA-ish combat precision) monolithics are ok, just expensive.
Im sub moa with handloaded 130 grain cx in 6.5 prc at 800m. My range doesnt go farther. Copper like a long jump and you must clean your barrel to bare metal if youre shooting any jacketted bullets before shooting monolithic @joearledge
I honestly feel like .003 is too little. I've been loading the calibers i shoot for a while now so I kind of know where they land. But if I'm finding a new load when it comes to bullet jump, I typically seat them in .010 increments. If it's really bad, It may be the wrong bullet choice for that rifle set up.
Did you follow the recipe in the cook book to the letter?? Did you double check everything as you went?? Did you start at the bottom of the ladder and work up?? If so, grip it and rip it and hope for the best.
Everytime I hear someone say "neck tension" I think of Kyle from primal rights who explains just how wrong that term is as used colloquially in reloading. The size of the expander ball/mandrel does not necessarily correlate to the release pressure. ua-cam.com/video/8YKyweKgqK8/v-deo.html
Scottwakes up on the morning of a pod cast appearance with a devil on one shoulder and an angel on the other. Devil says fire up the comment section. Angel says tell the truth. Scott says but they're the same thing with a demonic laugh
I'm listening to this through my speakers within earshot of my lady. Can we make a gentleman's agreement that whenever mentioning prices, we cut it half and throw a wink in the video?
Comment of the week
YES. More Podcasts with Tucker and Scott.
I've been handloading for around 25 years now and still learned a few things watching this one. Probably one of the best things about handloading is the new ways to learn!
16:18 You don't save money on any blasting ammo by rolling your own. If you're going to be a reloader, you have to WANT to do it, because it's absolutely work, if done properly. You have to be the kind of guy that really enjoys fiddling with stuff. The ONLY places you "save money" in reloading is: 1: ultra high quality ammo(mentioned in podcast), 2: ultra special custom ammo that is not available anywhere at any price(this is especially true for shotgun shells), 3: insanely rare or obsolete/ antique or wildcat ammo(basically things that you have to hand load for, or it ain't ever gettin shot). If you just want to get out and live that mag dump life, don't even remotely think about reloading. Buy whatever is cheap this week, by the case, and let your ghetto blaster sing.
There is another scenario where hand loading pays off: tailoring ammunition for a specific application. One example is .45-70 “Cowboy” loads that don’t kick much. If you can find factory ammo, it will cost a bundle. Another example might be tailoring a 230 grain .45 ACP load to be just barely subsonic in a 16” PCC. It’s within the range of +P ammunition, but it’s actually a lighter charge than any factory .45 ACP +P ammo.
@@chipsterb4946 yeah, those fall into category #2. The general theme is: If you're doing something special/custom, reloading MIGHT be worth it.
Everyone listen to this man
BAAAARRRP! (sound of buzzer being pressed) INCORRECT!!.
Wipe the original starting cost for a standard low-priced kit such as a lee anniversary which DOES EVERYTHING YOU NEED FOR QUALITY RELOADING with a few dollars added for whatever calibre(s) trim stems you want, add your die(s), a gas-torch(they're 30 bucks) for annealing if so desired, and forget all the other fancy bullsh*t add-on equipment the scamming manufacturers spend their days trying to convince you that's "needed" ...
Now you've spent your one-off costs for your gear you've got it for all time...
Now do your maths for 100 rounds (we'll go common 270/308 for example) add up your brass (truckloads of it 50 cents per case for once-fired) 100 primers, 100 projectiles, 4000-5500 grains of powder... DONE! You're now paying LESS THAN HALF-PRICE per round than shop-brought ammo. The more you shoot the more you save... Now if you're a hunter only (say,20-30 rounds per one two or three years.. bit less or bit more..) and just not into constantly slinging lead down shooting alleys, then yeah best just buy ya ammo from the shop...
Your standard ammo such as 9mm, 223, 308 - sure not really saving $. everything else YES you are saving $. and you get to pick which bullet you want and what speed you want.
not really 1 of your catagories - 4570 as mentioned is a popular round its way cheaper to load ur own.
Once you have fired brass and all you need is primer, powder, bullet its way cheaper even in 270, 3006, 45acp, 10mm, which are common rounds
I am one of the "Handloader" that is a down the rabbit hole doing everything to improve accuracy from neck turning to weighing primers and powder measuring to .02 of a grain!
I think its really important to go into it being honest with yourself as to what your reloading goals are. A competition shooter will have very different needs than a hunter might. As a hunter, if i load 100 rounds per year, i shoot more than i normally would. I can get by with a lower cost reloading setup. I can make premium ammo for the cost of the cheap factory stuff. I can mke it shoot as well or better than factory ammo. But most important to me is everything I've learned about ballistics and terminal performance as since i started reloading 4 years ago. But i do enjoy the nerdyness of seeing how well i can shoot my own ammo. And then the capstone was the 1st time i killed an animal i hunted with ammo that i made. That was cool.
One of the most information rich channels on UA-cam!!! Love listening to every video you guys put out! Keep up the great work!!!
I can see Ryan gnashing his teeth over missing this topic.
I started slowly with camera gear when I first started with photography, and I don't regret buying entry level gear at first. It taught me to appreciate what I had, and to learn what would be required if I wanted to reach the next level. If someone starts with less expensive gear, they can always sell it later if they find they no longer need it. If, on the other hand, you start with a purpose in mind, and have a loftier goal (like I do, regarding reloading, though I have yet to start), I play on buying a Lyman 8 turret press that comes in the Ultimate kit at Cabela's, if I'm going to do it at all - because I don't want to buy a single stage press and have to swap out dies all the time, as that's a time sink I'm willing to spend the money to bypass. Just like anything else, I don't want to buy the most expensive thing out there, because I'm not independently wealthy, and I just don't need the top end stuff - but I don't want the cheap stuff either, because it won't last very long - but if I start by buying a good setup, and I love it, I will keep going, and I won't regret the $ spent. On the other hand, if I don't want to continue with it, I'll be able to sell that good setup for a reasonable price, to at least get some return on my investment. Edit: Erik Cortina mentioned that when he measures for seating depth, when lifting the bolt, he does it quickly, not slowly - and he explains why slow is not a good idea.
I have youst started reloading in Norway and finding info like this is difficult except for the reloading 101.
So thank for the podcast have a nice day
Yes, this was pretty nuanced, but there are lots of us out here who LOVE it. Getting to hear two very experienced reloaders weigh in on what works (for them) and doesn't is priceless.
Get the Things You Really Want. Jumped from the Sparc 2 right to the UH-1. Loving it.
Personally I appreciate these kind of videos to remind me that no matter what I'm thinking I cannot afford to get into reloading to support the way I shoot. Thank you for your honesty guys.
The Redstipe is still available and makes a great black and tan! Keep up the great work. Love the show.
The plus side to reloading... especially 308. You can tailor your round to what you're doing or hunting for and change things around as long as you keep notes and repeat, repeat, repeat. Bear defence to coyotes to edible hunts. Factory ammo is for one thing.
Need to pick a powder? Go to the Nosler reloading data and they tell you what powder was most accurate in their tests. The Sierra manual will give one powder for hunting and (sometimes) another for accuracy. When in doubt, call the bullet manufacturer.
This conversation focused on hand loading bottle necked cartridges for bolt action rifles. I enjoy that myself, but there are other concerns when you’re loading for a semiauto rifle or a handgun.
On the subject of equipment, I think the “buy once, cry once” approach only works for some people in specific circumstances. If you start with a single stage press, manual trimmer, etc., you will figure out whether or not you even enjoy hand loading. You’ll also learn what you want out of a “better” press/trimmer/scale… However, everyone needs a Forster Co-Ax single stage press IMHO. It’s simply a better mousetrap, and it was the last of 4 presses I bought. If I needed buckets of ammo for 3-gun competition, a Dillon progressive press would make sense but I just don’t produce enough of any one cartridge to justify that.
I would encourage people starting out to try different things. If you got Hornady dies for .38 Special, try a Lyman set for the next cartridge. Buy a Redding Profile Crimp Die for a revolver load and see if you like what it does. I really like Forster die sets for rifle cartridges, but try Redding too. YMMV
I am currently working up a load for my daughter to use on her first deer hunt. I like that ammo can be custom tuned to meet performance metrics that may not be offered by factory ammo.
1:14:00 Runnout has been fairly well proven to not matter at all by multiple reliable sources at this point, including at least one 1,000yrd bench rest shooter. In the absence of the bullet being cocked 45 degrees off to the side, concentricity SEEMS like it should matter, but not 1 single person has been able to prove that it DOES matter, and anyone who has tried, ended up showing that it doesn't matter. Play with it if you want, but the overwhelming data shows that it's a waste of time and money to mess with runnout.
I now use to tumblers. First has Franklin Arsenal media. Does a great job. But plugs up the flash holes. After I size I throw brass in my second tumbler that has fine walnut media and some polish. Does not plug the flash hole.
I am in no ways an expert reloader, but I think my biggest piece of advice would be to remember to keep it fun. It is so easy to get overwhelmed with load development. Sometimes it’s easy to over complicate things that really don’t need to be that complicated.
You will enjoy your reloading journey much more when you have fun with it!
Your process being stream lined to the most efficiency is KEY!
FOR RIFLE - My process is - Dry Tumble, Deprime/resize or necksize, Wet Tumble, prime, charge, seat, crimp, finished
i will wait till i have several hundred to do batches at a time, i DO NOT do small batches, i do large batches that way i get big lots that are ALL THE SAME.
FOR PISTOL - i use a progressive - Dry Tumble, deprime, wet tumble, run thru progressive setup - expand, prime, charge, seat, crimp, finished.
Again wait till i have a LOT to do so i have big batches so they are all the same in that lot.
Once you have your Dies setup to how you want them, it should be rinse and repeat.
Trimming is only after so many firings its to long and needs it.
Rifle Brass i keep track of how many firings. pistol i do not.
FOR RIFLE - Weighing each bullet - i do this for my match accurate rounds, for bulk loading i do not weigh i just load and go.
Hornady did a great video and he said brass length being all the same does NOT matter for accuracy, they did testing on it.
Brass - using the same head stamp matters.
Crimping - i crimp all rifle and pistol. it helps keep everything uniform and only helps and does not hurt anything
All in All - pick what brand equipment you want and learn it, pick the Dies and set them up, pick your bullet, load, and have fun and be safe
LOADING IS NOT FAST, TAKE YOUR TIME, BE SAFE, hurrying only creates misteps, mistakes and problems, and you will get hurt! TAKE YOUR TIME, PAY ATTENTION
What would you consider as one of the most important aspects of reloading, is it Good Brass prep ?(Resizing, cleaning, trimming, annealing etc..) , Consistent powder charges? Consistent neck tension? Or is it all of the above?
It’s really hard to pick one to be honest. I think all of the things you mentioned are almost equally impt. If I had to pick one, I would say the brass prep. If you in load a few of the same lot of factory rounds, typically there is quite the variance in powder weights. As long as you’re in the node, you won’t see a ton of fps variance. I used much cheaper and less accurate powder measure/dispensers for a long time and still produced good results. I’d say brass prep is the bigger of the lot!
Good luck!
I have a confession to make, I only got into reloading so I could justify purchasing more guns. I used it as an excuse to afford ammo for older or obscure cartridges. With that factored in, it has done the exact opposite of saving me money.
@joshkrebs1999 Josh, we selected your comment as the comment of the week. Just keep reloading and the financial component will work itself out:) Shoot us an email at socialmedia@vortexoptics.com and well get to work getting your very own Vortex Nation Podcast Hoodie headed your way!
@VortexNation Thank you! To answer your question, Mark, I'll say, " Yeah, they say two thousand zero zero
Party over, oops out of time
So tonight I'm gonna party like it's 1999"
Great video! Thought I was pretty good until I heard this. I have a lot to learn.
I've been loading my own for years. I don't shoot competition I just love doing it for fun.
Great show on reloading you can always learn something new one thing I would suggest for us people who use single-stage presses make sure you dedicate your shell holder to your die because they very in thicknesses
Tucker was spot on about setting up the resizer die to minimize over working your brass but at the end of his explanation he called it the seater which im sure he meant resizer die, seater die is for bullet seating ,
Great info and tips! Got into reloading because Mark I believe bigger is better and I "just hunt" Wisconsin whitetails with a 30-378 Weatherby. Definitely cut down on cost of dropping the hammer on the stand cannon.
Could we see a 10 minute talk on the pros and cons of copper bullets?
That could be covered in 10 seconds. Pros: terminal performance is usually insanely good(is you pick the right one), they have a higher potential for penetrating armor(again pick the right one and get it going mach Jesus) Cons: expensive as sin, precision is luke warm at best on a good day. If you're doing close work(less than 100) not a bad choice other than price. Past that, depending on how much precision matters, there are better options. If minute of man out to 400 is what you're looking for(4 MOA-ish combat precision) monolithics are ok, just expensive.
They have extensive talks regarding their all-copper CX line of bullets where they discuss just that. Edit: My bad that's Hornady I'm thinking of.
Im sub moa with handloaded 130 grain cx in 6.5 prc at 800m. My range doesnt go farther. Copper like a long jump and you must clean your barrel to bare metal if youre shooting any jacketted bullets before shooting monolithic @joearledge
Shoulder neck bushing FL sizing dies is the way
Excellent talk.
Here's a HOT tip. Glisten dishwasher cleaner works about 10% better than lemi-shine.
I’m assuming that manufacturers don’t do any of this. They take new brass and start loading it right?
one question: what do you do when you initial jump to lands doesn't work? if 0,003 increments is too little, what is the "right" answer
I honestly feel like .003 is too little. I've been loading the calibers i shoot for a while now so I kind of know where they land. But if I'm finding a new load when it comes to bullet jump, I typically seat them in .010 increments. If it's really bad, It may be the wrong bullet choice for that rifle set up.
Throw the pins out and find media called "southern shine".
Ok ready for the 10 minute talk, have a case of beer and hoping it's enough!!!
Erik Cortina did a test on annealing by time, go check it out. When you think you hurt the brass... you didn't.
Okay, let’s say I’m a beginner and I just skinned my first cat. How do I know if it will blow my oven up before I put in in the oven?
Did you follow the recipe in the cook book to the letter?? Did you double check everything as you went?? Did you start at the bottom of the ladder and work up?? If so, grip it and rip it and hope for the best.
To be clear Joe is saying to get a reloading manual and use it correctly.
Curious what lower and mid brass is.
I’m longing for the day we get a 10 minute talk on the 7.5x54 French MAS . 🙏
Great podcast. I need to get loading up some 7mm-08. (7mm is the best mm)😂
What about match dies vs standard dies?
No cats were harmed during the recording of this Podcast.
so i know this is off topic but when is the AMG 1 - 10 LVPO going to be available to us plebs
Jeeeeezus the vocal fry on Scott is something else. Hard to get through that
Comment.... 😊
I reload, thus for I shoot when I want to, lol.
👍🏻👍🏻
Everytime I hear someone say "neck tension" I think of Kyle from primal rights who explains just how wrong that term is as used colloquially in reloading. The size of the expander ball/mandrel does not necessarily correlate to the release pressure.
ua-cam.com/video/8YKyweKgqK8/v-deo.html
Scottwakes up on the morning of a pod cast appearance with a devil on one shoulder and an angel on the other. Devil says fire up the comment section. Angel says tell the truth. Scott says but they're the same thing with a demonic laugh
Why would you not bring in Ryan for this one smh
Reloading topic with no Ryan?!?
Oo big word used correctly, another point.
It's not the dog you need to worry about😮