24v, yes low voltage. The main risk is shorting to ground and damaging equipment, though you can get a shock 24v is generally pretty safe. You should always kill power in any case. I'm an electrician , watched this video to see if i could do this myself without having to replace whole valve. Answer is yes in my case! Thanks for the video.
If the valve has a hard time returning like you demonstrated earlier in the video, does it mean that the valve needs replacement too and simply changing the motor will burn it out too? The heating guys changed the motor which stopped working in a couple of months, they didn't check to tell if the valve was not jammed.
Great video, thanks. I have a very similar setup on my 5 zone oil burner and was thinking to do the same swap. My issue is when the the thermostat calls for heat and circulator turns on I get an extremely loud water hammer bang. My thought is the valve isn't opening fast enough because the motor is shot like yours and the water is slamming into it as it begins to circulate. Also happens sometimes when it turns off. Have you any experience in this happening? Thanks again.
They sell the valve motor replacement head without the pipe for around $43. So if you don't have problem with the pipe assembly, you don't even need to pay $80.
Hello, sir, can you tell me the return pressure ,while the motorised valve shuts down, in the flow direction pipe?
I do not understand your question.
Thanks a lot for posting this video - super helpful!
24v, yes low voltage. The main risk is shorting to ground and damaging equipment, though you can get a shock 24v is generally pretty safe. You should always kill power in any case. I'm an electrician , watched this video to see if i could do this myself without having to replace whole valve. Answer is yes in my case! Thanks for the video.
If the valve has a hard time returning like you demonstrated earlier in the video, does it mean that the valve needs replacement too and simply changing the motor will burn it out too? The heating guys changed the motor which stopped working in a couple of months, they didn't check to tell if the valve was not jammed.
Thank you for the video it helped me a lot
Are your valves upside down. There is an arrow on the valve indicating flow. Just curious,but I'm pretty sure they are
Great video, thanks. I have a very similar setup on my 5 zone oil burner and was thinking to do the same swap. My issue is when the the thermostat calls for heat and circulator turns on I get an extremely loud water hammer bang. My thought is the valve isn't opening fast enough because the motor is shot like yours and the water is slamming into it as it begins to circulate. Also happens sometimes when it turns off. Have you any experience in this happening? Thanks again.
They sell the valve motor replacement head without the pipe for around $43. So if you don't have problem with the pipe assembly, you don't even need to pay $80.
Do you have a part #?
I question your remark about it all being low voltage. In my experience it's all mains voltage!
I believe its 24V, but its DC
@@OldSoulMillennial OK. Mine are all mains but I am in the UK. Thanks for the reply.
No, 24v
A company in Denver charged me 1200 bucks to do this… wish I watched this earlier
24v