I am on a no heat service call. I find the zone valve end switch even though pressed in by zone valve motor isn't closing the circuit to bring on the boiler.
You dropped the screwdriver and I said "ha! I'm not the only one!". Repairing janitorial equipment I drop stuff every day. My hands don't always work right when the mind is everywhere else at once. Glad i found this channel and i look forward to seeing how you diagnose problems. I work on different types of things but it helps to see new approaches.
I drop stuff all the time. Most of us do. I learn from all different kinds of mechanics on youtube. Everyone has a different way of approaching things.
I was on a roof working on a 40 ton intellapack unit today my helper dropped some screws I told him he needed to go back to school... He didn't get it I thought it was funny. Great vids keep it up.
Very nice work. But the camera cannot really shot the working detail. Your words can help me to follow! Really helpful! Keep things up! Thank you once again to resolve my wife ‘s complaint.
Yea this was early on in me making vids. I try to record what I’m working on instead of my knees or the wall. Sometimes it’s hard since I’m working and may forget to adjust the camera. Happy the vid helped
I'm not in the field but enjoy your vid's because you are obviously knowledgeable, methodical, purposeful. Would appreciate just a little more intro to your diagnostics when you walk into a situation like this. I'm distracted by "wow, nice pool!" while you have already started thinking critically about the problem, how to narrow it down.
I'm curious more on this intro your mentioning. Since I am trying to film without letting the homeowner know I'm filming. That was a nice pool room. I see so much stuff I could never afford when working for the 1%. Usually, I don't start filming until the machine is in front of me. Yet always looking for ways to improve my videos. I have only been making videos for a few months.
I had this valve go in my old apartment, It was located at the end of the radiator. The building maintenance department took too long to repair it so I figured out that giving it a rap with a screwdriver handle freed it up. The things you do when you are cold. It appears the gears dry up and fill with crud over time. Eventually they changed it.
The taco zone valves I installed on my boiler have a light. It blinks when a call for heat starts. And light goes solid when on. I could do without it. Just wanted to test out a zone valve different from the Honeywell I am use to
Nice job. Seems like Honeywell would sell end switches as parts since everything else (head, Motor, Valve/ball, O-rings) is replaceable & available. Not saying it's commercially viable to have a service man overhaul that stuff, but I'm an old school ex-Auto tech that grew up overhauling stuff.
These were my earlier videos. I tried to improve capturing more of what I’m working on with the camera. I jumped out the end switches which is what made the boiler click on.
Hi im new the boiler hydronics game and have a question regarding the end switch.....does the 24v that passes through this end switch first originate from the boiler,,then once the end switch closes does that same 24v travel back down to the boiler to through the safeties and on to the gas valve(regarding this boiler you are working on) ??? Thanks for sharing!!!!
I have 6 zone valves, 3 won't open via thermostat. But if I manually lock them open the heat goes through because other 3 zone valves work fine with their thermostats and the boiler and pump work. I took the thermostat off the wall and couldn't get a spark from touching the 2 wires together. Where could the problem be? Sounds to me like there's no signal getting through in the wiring.
My Honeywell zone won't shut off unless I tap the motor. As soon as I do that (with the thermostat turned down all the way), it'll shut off. Do I need to replace the motor? And I am a little confused as to how which voltage motor I would need. How do I tell by looking at the valve? All of the motors may have been replace at one time or another and I don't know what voltage the motors should have.
Taco is just a slow acting zone valve I feel there is also a delay for the motor to activate. Then many don’t understand that the common is just grounding inside the taco.
I have a zone valve passing water when it should be closed. I bought a new valve set and first tried changing just the actuator. I tried that for a couple of weeks but it was still passing water. So I replaced the valve fully, so new valve and the new actuator. It is still passing water. When the zone call for heat is on the motor starts and opens the valve and the boiler activates as it should. When I turn it off the spring closes the valve and the boiler shuts off. I can see that the actuator mechanism has moved back to about where it should be for closed. But if I turn on another zone then water still passes through the faulty one. Even with a brand new valve. I have double checked that the flow direction as labelled on the valve is correct with regards to the flow outlet from the boiler, plus it's the same as all the others anyway. I don't understand what's wrong. Is my new valve faulty too? Do I need to return it and buy a different one? The only difference with the other zone valves that work fine is that they are mounted vertically and the faulty one is horizontal. That shouldn't be a problem should it?
Hi why is it when I leave mine on automatic then only downstairs radiator comes in but when I put it on manual both upstairs and downstairs radiator comes in perfect
@@thehvachacker I have been to 4 boiler systems, total. I mainly get sent to them for basic maintenance. We have 1 hydronic system that we service, the rest are heat pump/furnace (LP, NG or oil)
I forgot about mini-splits. Those are what most of our heat pumps are. We have some regular split system heat pumps not many and usually on top of gas furnaces. I worked on a heat pump yesterday. Condenser fan motor was hitting the shroud nothing fancy. Today I spent the day at trane university.
I don't recall if that model is spring loaded for the actual valve position or not. if it's not a tight failing valve will eat the gearing in no time and you'll be back.... I rarely change just the power-heads for long term solutions. very often after a days to week off time, they hang again or first warm spell for then cold again and game over...
I change the heads all the time. Unless the gears are tight. This is just an end switch failure so a new valve head will last 10 plus years in this kind of repair. The spring closes this valve it’s power open. You will have incidents that the gears strip yet it wouldn’t move as smoothly as this motor did. You get jumping when it tries to open or you manually open the valve
right on, I'm not saying you did wrong or anywhere near that! not all areas/locations/jobs are the same, there's many areas with worse than not water quality and that kills everything in months to a years..... I think that is what gets manufactures from other states/countries.... going by "they're local" surroundings. "water, air, pollution" both indoor and outdoor in trouble. probably the engineers(other human beings of lower skill levels) don't understand the wrongs they are doing ;)
I have an opposite situation, when stat calls for heat, zone valve opens, activating end switch, thus activating circulating pump and allowing boiler to come on if needed. When stat is satisfied, blower fan shuts off, but valve remains open and circulating pump continues to run until I bang the cabinet just below the valve. Any suggestions why? The power head and ball where replaced because the ball was leaking by.
Could be a faulty motor or something in the zone valve head. I seen many end switches get stuck on or motors fail open and the heat won’t turn off. Usually not many problems with new heads yet anything is possible.
I actually like how neat the job looks using the cut off strands of wire to clean up control wires. Not sure who let this boiler room wires look like a rats nest.
Hi, my zone valve stopped working a few days ago. The motor makes a buzzing sound all the time, so I tested the voltage and it shows constant 6V whether there is or not a call for heat. I checked the transformer it seemed to be fine but just in case I replaced it but the issue did not go away. I also switched my Ecobee thermostats around, same issue. I replaced the wire going to the thermostat, same issue. I have a 2 zone heating and cooling system with a boiler. Ecobees are connected with Rc, Y, G and C wire from a handler and Rh from transformer going to both Ecobees and coming back as Ws with each connected to the respective zone valve motor. The the other zone valves motor wires are connected together to the negative wire from the transformer. Just in case I checked the relay on the zone valve and it is fine. At this point I have 0 ideas what could be wrong and a bit short on money to call a professional. Could you please let me know what could be wrong?
My plumber changed the zone value but it still doesn’t give heat when the thermostat calls for it. Yet when he connected it to another zone value it works and gives heat when called for. I now have two zone valves connected to one thermostat to work. There is something wrong with the wires to that one zone value. How do we fix that?
Did he test the wire from zone valve to thermostat to verify if it is the correct wire or broken? If the wire is broken a new wire or wireless thermostat will be needed. Sometimes electrical jobs are too much for a plumber. You might want to get a HVAC Company to come look verify if the wiring is correct if so test the wire.
24V is the Voltage too. But our way of wiring is an other. We have closed cable ducts in the most cases. And we use other cable fittings. I go forward to take a picture of the heating room in our building tomorrow. In the mean time I like to wish you a good day ;-)
Hi i like your vireo i got an issue in one of my Zone Valve. from 3 when i turn on the thermostat it for that particular valve it does not start the boiler and i checked the lever in it it is kind of locked and does not move like the other one when i push them the move and then comes back where it was any idea thx
For a one inch unit,approximately 145.00,if it was just the head unit ,about 80.00, the micro switch is integral to the frame of the head unit,and is not field repairable.
The begining was fine but at the end your hands were all over and we couldn't see whitch wires you put together. Can you do it again with somebody holding the camera.
It was like that when I arrived. If the customer is willing to pay I will straighten out. Electricians are useless. They can wire switches, lights, and outlets. Most have no idea how to troubleshoot control circuits.
Have the same issue on a 3 zone system. I turn up all three thermostats up (opening the zone valves... but does not engage the pump)and jump the pump which pushes water through the HWH (my "boiler") and engages it to heat. Im convinced its the end switch on one of the zone valves, just dont know which one. This morning I turned up only two t-stats and the HWH did not engage. I then turned up the 3rd and sure enough the HWH heater engaged and "bobs your uncle". HELP! Not likely that all three valves are dead. How do I determine which one it is? Made me think these were wired in series, but others say no and doesnt look like it (but made me think "Christmas tree lights" though.
The zone valve motor is wired in series with the thermostat. When the motor opens it activates the end switch. All the end switches are wired in parallel. Therefore if you turn one zone on and all the others are off. You will test the specific end switch for that zone.
@@thehvachacker All my valves open with the t-stats up. When the heat died last week, I noticed that the pump wasnt running (and the HWH 'boiler"). Ive jumped it (the pump), as I mentioned and have heat that way. The relay engages with the jumper (as it would when the end switch was working). I cant imagine that all zone valve end switches would be bad. I thought I'd try to do some more testing (still with my jumper in place for the pump). None of the zones when individually selected engage the HWH (the boiler). Then I mixed it up. Zone 3 & 2 together didnt engage HWH, neither did Zone 1&3, but Zone 1&2 together did (as it does with them all together). Cant wrap my head around what that means.
You should remove the jumper for testing. Jump the end switches by the zone valve. If Honeywell the red wires if Erie the black wires. Is your pump relay a taco zoning panel? Lots variables of what could be going on. Yet you need to find out where your losing the call for heat to the boiler. If it’s the zone valve end switches, bad zoning panel, if it’s just a pump relay then I doubt that’s bad if your jumping the tt connections. Loose wire somewhere, broken wire. I never have jumpers in place when troubleshooting. I jump stuff to see if it’s at fault. If it’s a zoning panel then jump the end switch connections where they connect to the board. Usually thermostat and zone valves are next to each other for each zone.
In this video I jumped the end switches where they all splice together. The end switch is just a dry contact. Don’t jump the motor side though that is a load and will take out the system transformer. I don’t know if I’m the video I pushed the end switch or not but that is also possible to push in the end switch
@@thehvachacker They are Wirsbo/Uponor 4 wire. No Zone panel (sq box with transformer along with a relay). When working properly, t-stat would call for heat and zone valve would open, pump would go on along with HWH (since cold water was being pushed through it) and you would hear the relay kick in at the outset. I swapped out 3 relay set up and no change. Ive pretty much determined is not the relay since I can get that to trigger with my jumper thereby running the pump and HWH. I've thought about a lose/broken wire too (not feeding back to the transformer to then fire the relay after the zone valve opens), though so far the wires/wire nuts seem fine (though I should take one off at a time to look closer). Thanks!
So you said something about if its a Honeywell ....drain down boiler...why is that man? Wont be able to just replace as you did here? thanks ! I am a plumber. doing one tomorrow actually. Ive rebuilt them before. But yea I have one that is stuck closed.
Ok thanks ! I'm hoping they have the newer. Because whoever did the damn boiler did not put any drains or shut offs on the return side or anywhere. Old buderus boiler.
There would be 4 Philips screws holding the head on on older one that requires draining. New one the back plate is held in with studs and only 2 screws hold the valve on to the body
tik68 it was more then 10 minutes. It was going there to diagnose the problem, go and get the part(s), then install and making sure the system is working as it should after parts are installed. My company charges a 2 hour minimum plus a truck charge. 85/hr and 35 for truck charge. But I mostly do commercial. Calls like that are generally quick because of experience in the field.
Tik68 10 minutes of video yet the call was about 1/2 hour. Since my company usually only does service calls for contract customers. Which means they already paid for maintenance. This house has 8 AC central AC systems and 8 heating systems. Which means they already paid my company close to $1700 just to keep systems maintained and make sure they can get service when needed. The call was only around $225 a half hour work and the zone valve. Some techs might take 1/2 hour before they find the problem. I know what's wrong usually from the symptoms a customer tells me(usually not always). Yet I am almost 20 years in the field I only took my meter out to show all viewers the end switch wasn't completing the circuit and bringing the boiler on. What you didn't see in the video is me making sure all the other zones heat and boiler cycles at the correct temps and all pumps run. I just touched this boiler I own any problems I don't take care of. As for the trip charge, we charge $75 and 175 an hour for non-contract customers. If its hot or really cold they don't get service since the contract customers are the priority. 7000 residential and 5000 commercial contract customers. Even the one system contract customer gets the same priority as the 10 system house. We provide service trucks with most parts to repair most breakdowns. This house hasn't had it's annual service yet that is an all-day adventure. With 7 forced air and 1 boiler.
Horrible camera work. No explanation for conclusion of bad zone valve. End switch not operating could be because valve is stuck and motor fails to turn it. Often manual manipulation of the valve stem with the motor off will free the valve and avoid replacement.
The bromine doesn’t create rust on metal as chlorine does. You don’t even smell any of the bromine in this room. The pool is attached to the master bedroom. I would think the boiler and most metal would be rusting away near a pool yet the desert air keeps the humidity in the room low. Bromine molecules don’t gas off and become air born.this equipment has been here for almost 20 years when this room was designed.
First it was going to be a thumbs up, but you're poisonous blabbing at the end got a thumbs down. And since you don't care what I got to say....then I'm out.
Thank you for providing the clearest most concise step by step instructional video. One gets tired of HVAC specialists trying to clean my clock.
Nice to see a professional who knows that appearance is part of a quality repair.
Appearance is the only thing the customer sees. Not all the work performed to get their system to operate.
You dropped the screwdriver and I said "ha! I'm not the only one!". Repairing janitorial equipment I drop stuff every day. My hands don't always work right when the mind is everywhere else at once.
Glad i found this channel and i look forward to seeing how you diagnose problems. I work on different types of things but it helps to see new approaches.
I drop stuff all the time. Most of us do. I learn from all different kinds of mechanics on youtube. Everyone has a different way of approaching things.
I was on a roof working on a 40 ton intellapack unit today my helper dropped some screws I told him he needed to go back to school... He didn't get it I thought it was funny. Great vids keep it up.
Very nice work. But the camera cannot really shot the working detail. Your words can help me to follow! Really helpful! Keep things up! Thank you once again to resolve my wife ‘s complaint.
Yea this was early on in me making vids. I try to record what I’m working on instead of my knees or the wall. Sometimes it’s hard since I’m working and may forget to adjust the camera. Happy the vid helped
I'm not in the field but enjoy your vid's because you are obviously knowledgeable, methodical, purposeful. Would appreciate just a little more intro to your diagnostics when you walk into a situation like this. I'm distracted by "wow, nice pool!" while you have already started thinking critically about the problem, how to narrow it down.
I'm curious more on this intro your mentioning. Since I am trying to film without letting the homeowner know I'm filming. That was a nice pool room. I see so much stuff I could never afford when working for the 1%. Usually, I don't start filming until the machine is in front of me. Yet always looking for ways to improve my videos. I have only been making videos for a few months.
I had this valve go in my old apartment, It was located at the end of the radiator. The building maintenance department took too long to repair it so I figured out that giving it a rap with a screwdriver handle freed it up. The things you do when you are cold. It appears the gears dry up and fill with crud over time. Eventually they changed it.
Carlos Pulpo prolly gear grease that dried up
Hello from Bergen County !! great vid man !! keep em up . fuck any one who dont like them !!
That's how I feel about those who want to tell me how wrong I do my job. Bergen County is a great place to live
Just had the same call last week. Zone was for the indirect tank so I just swapped it for the 2nd floor till we got the head delivered
Does it matter which yellow wire goes to the thermostat or which red wire goes to which? Thank you my good man, great video, cheers Kev in NJ
It would be great to add LED pilot lights to those zone valves for easy indication for the customer & technicians.
The taco zone valves I installed on my boiler have a light. It blinks when a call for heat starts. And light goes solid when on. I could do without it. Just wanted to test out a zone valve different from the Honeywell I am use to
Nice job. Seems like Honeywell would sell end switches as parts since everything else (head, Motor, Valve/ball, O-rings) is replaceable & available. Not saying it's commercially viable to have a service man overhaul that stuff, but I'm an old school ex-Auto tech that grew up overhauling stuff.
what caused the click around 1:35 and the conclusion that zone valve was bad, were end switch wires jumped ?
These were my earlier videos. I tried to improve capturing more of what I’m working on with the camera. I jumped out the end switches which is what made the boiler click on.
@@thehvachacker thx. i'm learning from this.
Another great job, learning a lot, keep the videos coming!
Glade my videos are helping
Hi im new the boiler hydronics game and have a question regarding the end switch.....does the 24v that passes through this end switch first originate from the boiler,,then once the end switch closes does that same 24v travel back down to the boiler to through the safeties and on to the gas valve(regarding this boiler you are working on) ??? Thanks for sharing!!!!
Why do the Honeywell end switch valves stick open? Only two years old.
It’s rare after two years they fail. A zone valve is good for at least 10 years. Unless the body is seized. Then it will strip the gears
I have 6 zone valves, 3 won't open via thermostat. But if I manually lock them open the heat goes through because other 3 zone valves work fine with their thermostats and the boiler and pump work. I took the thermostat off the wall and couldn't get a spark from touching the 2 wires together. Where could the problem be? Sounds to me like there's no signal getting through in the wiring.
Make sure you have 24vac on the control circuit. Without power to the stats the valves won’t open.
Good video ,need better lighting to see end switch and other components for non techs.
My Honeywell zone won't shut off unless I tap the motor. As soon as I do that (with the thermostat turned down all the way), it'll shut off. Do I need to replace the motor? And I am a little confused as to how which voltage motor I would need. How do I tell by looking at the valve? All of the motors may have been replace at one time or another and I don't know what voltage the motors should have.
Good video, I always like honeywell over taco. Taco's zone valve take 90 sec to make end switch.
Taco is just a slow acting zone valve I feel there is also a delay for the motor to activate. Then many don’t understand that the common is just grounding inside the taco.
Taco is better. The Honeywell motor and valve opens too fast allowing for water hammer. The taco opens the valve slowly.
Good repair,on Zone .
I have a zone valve passing water when it should be closed. I bought a new valve set and first tried changing just the actuator. I tried that for a couple of weeks but it was still passing water. So I replaced the valve fully, so new valve and the new actuator. It is still passing water. When the zone call for heat is on the motor starts and opens the valve and the boiler activates as it should. When I turn it off the spring closes the valve and the boiler shuts off. I can see that the actuator mechanism has moved back to about where it should be for closed. But if I turn on another zone then water still passes through the faulty one. Even with a brand new valve. I have double checked that the flow direction as labelled on the valve is correct with regards to the flow outlet from the boiler, plus it's the same as all the others anyway. I don't understand what's wrong. Is my new valve faulty too? Do I need to return it and buy a different one? The only difference with the other zone valves that work fine is that they are mounted vertically and the faulty one is horizontal. That shouldn't be a problem should it?
Hi why is it when I leave mine on automatic then only downstairs radiator comes in but when I put it on manual both upstairs and downstairs radiator comes in perfect
Something is not allowing the motor to energize and open. Or the motor failed.
It's amazing how different the stuff is from "the south" to the north
Do you have lots of hot water systems?
@@thehvachacker I have been to 4 boiler systems, total. I mainly get sent to them for basic maintenance. We have 1 hydronic system that we service, the rest are heat pump/furnace (LP, NG or oil)
We don’t have many heat pumps up here. A lot of hot water, steam, and forced air furnaces.
@@thehvachacker oh and mini splits, we have a few of those too
I forgot about mini-splits. Those are what most of our heat pumps are. We have some regular split system heat pumps not many and usually on top of gas furnaces. I worked on a heat pump yesterday. Condenser fan motor was hitting the shroud nothing fancy. Today I spent the day at trane university.
I don't recall if that model is spring loaded for the actual valve position or not. if it's not a tight failing valve will eat the gearing in no time and you'll be back....
I rarely change just the power-heads for long term solutions. very often after a days to week off time, they hang again or first warm spell for then cold again and game over...
I change the heads all the time. Unless the gears are tight. This is just an end switch failure so a new valve head will last 10 plus years in this kind of repair. The spring closes this valve it’s power open. You will have incidents that the gears strip yet it wouldn’t move as smoothly as this motor did. You get jumping when it tries to open or you manually open the valve
right on, I'm not saying you did wrong or anywhere near that! not all areas/locations/jobs are the same, there's many areas with worse than not water quality and that kills everything in months to a years..... I think that is what gets manufactures from other states/countries.... going by "they're local" surroundings. "water, air, pollution" both indoor and outdoor in trouble. probably the engineers(other human beings of lower skill levels) don't understand the wrongs they are doing ;)
Keep up with the good work! Thanks for sharing
I have an opposite situation, when stat calls for heat, zone valve opens, activating end switch, thus activating circulating pump and allowing boiler to come on if needed. When stat is satisfied, blower fan shuts off, but valve remains open and circulating pump continues to run until I bang the cabinet just below the valve. Any suggestions why? The power head and ball where replaced because the ball was leaking by.
Could be a faulty motor or something in the zone valve head. I seen many end switches get stuck on or motors fail open and the heat won’t turn off. Usually not many problems with new heads yet anything is possible.
I had the same problem..it was the motor. Replaced it and runs fine.
Links or information on the screwdriver and led light used in the video ?, please
Buy that man some zip ties!
Nice job! :)
I actually like how neat the job looks using the cut off strands of wire to clean up control wires. Not sure who let this boiler room wires look like a rats nest.
@@thehvachacker To each their own... The wires before the repair looked "cleaner" than after. My personal preference is zip ties.
Does it matter which yellow wire goes to the other yellow wire? also with the reds too...
The wires can be connected either way
Hi, my zone valve stopped working a few days ago. The motor makes a buzzing sound all the time, so I tested the voltage and it shows constant 6V whether there is or not a call for heat. I checked the transformer it seemed to be fine but just in case I replaced it but the issue did not go away. I also switched my Ecobee thermostats around, same issue. I replaced the wire going to the thermostat, same issue. I have a 2 zone heating and cooling system with a boiler. Ecobees are connected with Rc, Y, G and C wire from a handler and Rh from transformer going to both Ecobees and coming back as Ws with each connected to the respective zone valve motor. The the other zone valves motor wires are connected together to the negative wire from the transformer. Just in case I checked the relay on the zone valve and it is fine. At this point I have 0 ideas what could be wrong and a bit short on money to call a professional. Could you please let me know what could be wrong?
You are nota teacher
So if the stat calls for heat and the valve opens but does not meet the end switch does that mean it's bad?
If the end switch doesn’t make the boiler will not fire up. Pumps will not start. Therefore the zone valve has failed to bring on the boiler
Great job, thanks!!
I like boiler work yet not ready to let the warm weather go
My plumber changed the zone value but it still doesn’t give heat when the thermostat calls for it. Yet when he connected it to another zone value it works and gives heat when called for. I now have two zone valves connected to one thermostat to work. There is something wrong with the wires to that one zone value. How do we fix that?
Did he test the wire from zone valve to thermostat to verify if it is the correct wire or broken? If the wire is broken a new wire or wireless thermostat will be needed. Sometimes electrical jobs are too much for a plumber. You might want to get a HVAC Company to come look verify if the wiring is correct if so test the wire.
Thumbs up for the hacker 👍
Thanks Makita
The difference between wiering in Germany and in the USA is huge!
How is your control wiring? Do you use 24v for controls?
24V is the Voltage too. But our way of wiring is an other. We have closed cable ducts in the most cases. And we use other cable fittings. I go forward to take a picture of the heating room in our building tomorrow. In the mean time I like to wish you a good day ;-)
The wiring is different pretty much everywhere when compared to the U.S.
Accept maybe Zimbabwe and I dunno... hurricane zones.
Yes, I always need a step-down transformer and power adapters when I visit the inlaws.
yeah, don't electrocute yourself going to other countries or major areas within countries ;)
It looks like the residences you visit don't have any cash flow problems.
Nope, money no issue here, you like the pool room right outside the master bedroom. One day it be nice to have......
Where does the end switch hock into the boiler?
The end switch ties into the thermostat tt connection. Thermostats don’t tie to the boiler, instead are wired into the zone valve motor.
Hi i like your vireo i got an issue in one of my Zone Valve. from 3 when i turn on the thermostat it for that particular valve it does not start the boiler and i checked the lever in it it is kind of locked and does not move like the other one when i push them the move and then comes back where it was any idea thx
Nice fix
sick house
Learning something new ever vid.
Happy to help
Why not just replace the end switch inside the zone valve?
Labor is cheaper to swap the head
Why cant you just buy an end switch and not the whole valve???
If you haven't already, would strongly suggest getting a camera person. Too frustrating to try to watch the camera jumping all around.
"Tanks' for the tip about the Honeywell zone valve.
Lol if you hate my videos I don't care. Nice video. You help me fix mines
Happy my video helped you. That statement is for all those who tell me how wrong everything I do is.
The HVAC Hacker I figured that. It was just funny and fuck those people man good job
So like, how much does it cost for a thermostat/valve motor unit??
Cause I'm pretty sure it's about 80 cents for a microswtich.
My reply to that would be have you got one.
For a one inch unit,approximately 145.00,if it was just the head unit ,about 80.00, the micro switch is integral to the frame of the head unit,and is not field repairable.
Really cool stuff
Thanks, Wade!
3:49 bummer, the exact issue I was afraid of. i have an older(13 years old) honeywell z.v. that froze up the newer
The begining was fine but at the end your hands were all over and we couldn't see whitch wires you put together. Can you do it again with somebody holding the camera.
Yes,all you have to do now is get an electrician in to sort out than birds nest of wiring that you left!
It was like that when I arrived. If the customer is willing to pay I will straighten out. Electricians are useless. They can wire switches, lights, and outlets. Most have no idea how to troubleshoot control circuits.
Have the same issue on a 3 zone system. I turn up all three thermostats up (opening the zone valves... but does not engage the pump)and jump the pump which pushes water through the HWH (my "boiler") and engages it to heat. Im convinced its the end switch on one of the zone valves, just dont know which one. This morning I turned up only two t-stats and the HWH did not engage. I then turned up the 3rd and sure enough the HWH heater engaged and "bobs your uncle". HELP! Not likely that all three valves are dead. How do I determine which one it is? Made me think these were wired in series, but others say no and doesnt look like it (but made me think "Christmas tree lights" though.
The zone valve motor is wired in series with the thermostat. When the motor opens it activates the end switch. All the end switches are wired in parallel. Therefore if you turn one zone on and all the others are off. You will test the specific end switch for that zone.
@@thehvachacker All my valves open with the t-stats up. When the heat died last week, I noticed that the pump wasnt running (and the HWH 'boiler"). Ive jumped it (the pump), as I mentioned and have heat that way. The relay engages with the jumper (as it would when the end switch was working). I cant imagine that all zone valve end switches would be bad. I thought I'd try to do some more testing (still with my jumper in place for the pump). None of the zones when individually selected engage the HWH (the boiler). Then I mixed it up. Zone 3 & 2 together didnt engage HWH, neither did Zone 1&3, but Zone 1&2 together did (as it does with them all together). Cant wrap my head around what that means.
You should remove the jumper for testing. Jump the end switches by the zone valve. If Honeywell the red wires if Erie the black wires. Is your pump relay a taco zoning panel? Lots variables of what could be going on. Yet you need to find out where your losing the call for heat to the boiler. If it’s the zone valve end switches, bad zoning panel, if it’s just a pump relay then I doubt that’s bad if your jumping the tt connections. Loose wire somewhere, broken wire. I never have jumpers in place when troubleshooting. I jump stuff to see if it’s at fault. If it’s a zoning panel then jump the end switch connections where they connect to the board. Usually thermostat and zone valves are next to each other for each zone.
In this video I jumped the end switches where they all splice together. The end switch is just a dry contact. Don’t jump the motor side though that is a load and will take out the system transformer. I don’t know if I’m the video I pushed the end switch or not but that is also possible to push in the end switch
@@thehvachacker They are Wirsbo/Uponor 4 wire. No Zone panel (sq box with transformer along with a relay). When working properly, t-stat would call for heat and zone valve would open, pump would go on along with HWH (since cold water was being pushed through it) and you would hear the relay kick in at the outset. I swapped out 3 relay set up and no change. Ive pretty much determined is not the relay since I can get that to trigger with my jumper thereby running the pump and HWH. I've thought about a lose/broken wire too (not feeding back to the transformer to then fire the relay after the zone valve opens), though so far the wires/wire nuts seem fine (though I should take one off at a time to look closer). Thanks!
Nice job man!! Thanks.
Thanks
great vid.
So you said something about if its a Honeywell ....drain down boiler...why is that man? Wont be able to just replace as you did here? thanks ! I am a plumber. doing one tomorrow actually. Ive rebuilt them before. But yea I have one that is stuck closed.
Only the older honeywells need to be drained. Tue newer style which the head is held in place with 2 screws doesn't need to be drained down
Ok thanks ! I'm hoping they have the newer. Because whoever did the damn boiler did not put any drains or shut offs on the return side or anywhere. Old buderus boiler.
I mean worse case I'd throw one in. But yea
There would be 4 Philips screws holding the head on on older one that requires draining. New one the back plate is held in with studs and only 2 screws hold the valve on to the body
There is also an orangish red gasket that is visible
shoulda shown pic of red orange gasket for visual purposes otherwise ok video
Dude did u ever review ure clip camera everywhere but on the part! Get a better visual set up! Second pair a hands runnin camera!
They don't remove clamsines at school
howmuch would u charge for that 10 mins of work?
tik68 it was more then 10 minutes. It was going there to diagnose the problem, go and get the part(s), then install and making sure the system is working as it should after parts are installed. My company charges a 2 hour minimum plus a truck charge. 85/hr and 35 for truck charge. But I mostly do commercial. Calls like that are generally quick because of experience in the field.
@@bososz I just went to 95hr. I need to be compensated for what I do. Everyone else does
@@bososz truck charge? seems like s scam
@@tik68 how do you pay for the truck and operating expenses. That's not enough
Tik68 10 minutes of video yet the call was about 1/2 hour. Since my company usually only does service calls for contract customers. Which means they already paid for maintenance. This house has 8 AC central AC systems and 8 heating systems. Which means they already paid my company close to $1700 just to keep systems maintained and make sure they can get service when needed. The call was only around $225 a half hour work and the zone valve. Some techs might take 1/2 hour before they find the problem. I know what's wrong usually from the symptoms a customer tells me(usually not always). Yet I am almost 20 years in the field I only took my meter out to show all viewers the end switch wasn't completing the circuit and bringing the boiler on. What you didn't see in the video is me making sure all the other zones heat and boiler cycles at the correct temps and all pumps run. I just touched this boiler I own any problems I don't take care of. As for the trip charge, we charge $75 and 175 an hour for non-contract customers. If its hot or really cold they don't get service since the contract customers are the priority. 7000 residential and 5000 commercial contract customers. Even the one system contract customer gets the same priority as the 10 system house. We provide service trucks with most parts to repair most breakdowns. This house hasn't had it's annual service yet that is an all-day adventure. With 7 forced air and 1 boiler.
Horrible camera work. No explanation for conclusion of bad zone valve. End switch not operating could be because valve is stuck and motor fails to turn it. Often manual manipulation of the valve stem with the motor off will free the valve and avoid replacement.
engineer/architect failure, none of that stuff should be in or near any pool equipment or in the same "ambient air zone as such.......
The bromine doesn’t create rust on metal as chlorine does. You don’t even smell any of the bromine in this room. The pool is attached to the master bedroom. I would think the boiler and most metal would be rusting away near a pool yet the desert air keeps the humidity in the room low. Bromine molecules don’t gas off and become air born.this equipment has been here for almost 20 years when this room was designed.
NIce ;)
First it was going to be a thumbs up, but you're poisonous blabbing at the end got a thumbs down. And since you don't care what I got to say....then I'm out.
I don’t think you know what da hell you doing bro.
Why would you say that? This job was done successfully.
#350 thumbs up
" I don't care what you have to say" lol stop your crying and get back to improving workmanship.
👍
Good thing it wasn't a txv
It has to be the txv, it’s always the txv
zip ties would look better ......sorry not hatin...but...
3:49 bummer, the exact issue I was afraid of. i have an older(13 years old) honeywell z.v. that froze up the newer