More minutiae, this video was definitely useful and something that I haven't seen anywhere on UA-cam. I need more actionable advice like this! keep them coming thank you.
Incredible video, I recently realized this myself and crimps have been feeling a lot better. I didn't understand it was due to getting more skin behind the holds, I thought it was due to getting more of my joint on the hold. Really looking forward to more videos like this on minutiae to understand techniques that are not so obvious!
Hey Nate, great episode! I am in the minority here, as I’ve always felt great on crimps but very out of control on slopers or even open jugs, so an episode on that sounds good. Also, I’m looking forward to more in depth episodes on movement, e.g, I had a huge progress using your rooting drills, so a rooting special would be a true gem, I’m sure 😊
Thanks! I've got a quite a few sloper videos already planned as well as some deeper dives into rooting. Are there any specific situations with jugs or slopers where your climbing feels the most out of control?
@@NateDroletSlopers kinda rightfully feel hard for me because I don't train them. They are not common near my home crags, but every once in a while they appear, but that makes it hard for me to prioritise training for them :( I'm not even sure I'm out of control, maybe it's just a nature of climbing on them, or a regular feeling when oin slopers, maybe I'm just not used to it, versus the control I feel when I full crimp an edge. The open jugs are funny tho, because you kinda expect that you will feel in control, but in some positions (them being sidepulls, or being in a back flag so you have to pull on them one sided - they just feel hard to control.Again, maybe it's just slightly uncomfortable feeling you get from an open holds, regardless of how deep it is, so it might be the same issue I explained with the slopers.
I've seen Adam Ondra talk about this, but I often forget it and don't think to use it while I'm climbing but with your very clear explanation and the simple concept to "overshoot", I think (i hope) I'll remember more easily when I will go climbing, so thank you (sorry for my english...I'm french and we are notoriously known to suck at english ;) )
Thought of this video when one of my athletes mentioned she was struggling to keep hanging on the hangboard in the 3 finger open hand position - sent this over to her to see if this concept clicks for her. I know I think about this when I'm stepping up to the hangboard! Thanks again for the awesome education, Nate!
Great content. Sort of finally end up doing this at limit moves through a process of failing and learning, test-grabbing crimps in different ways. But I never actually attributed it to more active surface area due to skin plasticity and its deformative capacity, just assumed it was muscle-tendon unit memory, more weight into feet, smoother weight shifts. Can't wait to test it out on some outdoor crimp projects. :) Makes total sense! Would love to see more nuggets from you.
This explains something i never understood about why a hold sometimes feels nice and sometimes not when limit projecting. I was aware of this variable but not of any practical solution yo gripping technique to make it consisty. Ty ty, cant wait to expirement with this a bit.
Love the detailed explanation. Would love to see more detailed discussion on pockets and lumbrical injuries as I feel like that is overshadowed by the crimp / pulley discussion
Very helpful. I’ve never really thought about this, but I now realize that I do this subconsciously on the 6mm part of my hangboard. I hav ego get perfectly positioned and roll my fingers to make it work. It’s silly that this never really occurred to me with actual climbing though. I’ll be experimenting with this on the wall this week. Thanks a millions for this.
Superbe content - I did this often but always unconcious Gonna try this on my proj I would really like to see more en detail videos like this one Microbeta, Microhacks for the advanced climbers Heel and toehooks in depth would also interest me Thanks nate for your work, it si amazing
Thank you! I like the idea of a microbeta series. I've already got a few outlined for things like heel hooks and kneebars, and it would be fun to do one with toe hooks too.
Very cool! I never thought about it, but I think I've already been doing the "roll". I always thought it was weird, but now I feel less weird. Thanks for the explanation and demonstration! I'm going to be more thoughtful about this now.
Appreciate this content! I would love to see more detailed demos on footwork, and how to get more from a) good foot placement and b) transferring the support of your feet through your legs and core.
I'm digging the simplicity of the editing. No bs music or crazy cuts. Just great info. I personally love minutiae. Other tips on other hold types would be cool. I'd personally also enjoy subjects around setting homewalls and climbing hold design stuff. Maybe not for commercial use, but maybe for replicas or effective training to translate outdoors. I make a lot of my own holds so that a pretty niche interest, but maybe there's some general applicability? Another cool subject not often discussed is pacing while climbing. When is slower or faster better etc.
Thanks! And thank you for the video suggestions. I just finished a homewall build earlier this year, and it's given me a lot of new thoughts on how they are set and their purpose. I definitely plan on diving into that. Pacing is one of my favorite topics. That will be on the list for sure.
Excellent video! I've been climbing for over a decade and I've never heard this talked about before. Excited to give it try and play around with it the next time I'm in the gym. Looking forward to learning more.
Thank you so much, Nate, for the amazing content! I've been climbing since I was a child, and I am quite a technically instinctive climber, which is amazing, but sometimes I feel like I'm on a technical plateau because of it. That's why I really appreciate this kind of attention to detail on technique. For future videos, I would love to have your insight on how to find flaws in our technique. I have tried videoing myself, but even though I'm far from perfect, I have no idea what to change and what technical weaknesses I should focus on. I just don't know what I should look at other than "does it look good?" whatever that means. Anyway, I'm super excited to see more content like this, keep it up!
Ha you just described my whole climbing style in a nutshell. I throw 3 finger drag to everything then roll in after I catch. My friends all hate the noise my finger nails make when I crimp in. I’m amazed by the degree of compliance in your first pad! Mine does not move nearly that much!
Being good at latching with front three is such a great skill to have! That extra reach you get from it can be so helpful. That's interesting about your first pad having less compliance. If you end up measuring it at any point let me know what it ends up being.
Crazy how much of climbing comes down to being able to manipulate the contact between your skin and the rock (or your rubber and the rock.) I remember talking about this (rolling on to crimps) with you and Ravioli in Hueco over a decade ago!
Agreed, there's so much important work that goes on within our bodies, but those contact points with the rock make such a huge difference in our performance.
Lower limb technique is often overlooked... Especially when one of them isn't loaded on a hold. There's no passengers along for the ride when climbing, despite what my awful technique says
@@NateDrolet hips, trailing leg, ankle/toe engagement etc. I've self-discovered that I was using these very passively, which resulted in over compensation from my upper body Any tips/content on this would be greatly appreciated
This partially explains why I tend to crimp well, I do this naturally and never realized that not everyone does! It also explains why, I struggle with splits at my first joint and sometimes a few CM closer to the tip of my fingers in the middle of my pulp. I'd love some tips on how to prevent this and heal them faster. Its a never ending battle for me
Great stuff! I would love an in depth talk on the rose move. It is something that has always given me trouble and I cannot find any good content out there on it.
@@NateDrolet yes the unwind for me is especially hard. Usually I am able to make the initial cross but often get stuck mid unwind and come off the wall.
This was incredibly useful immediately. Would you recommend using this technique while hang boarding? And would love to hear more about specifics regarding grip types, techniques, what/when they’re good, etc!
I'm glad to hear it! I do use this technique while doing hangs, especially on smaller edges in the 10mm and under range or when I'm doing open handed hangs. I'm not as exaggerated with it as I would be when I'm getting my skin behind a sharp incut crimp, but even just a little bit of taking the slack out will make a hang feel more secure and consistent set to set
@@NateDrolet Absolutely, tried this out during my hang board workout yesterday and suddenly found the 14mm edges on the beast maker 2000 very doable. Still relatively new to climbing/hang boarding though so wanted to run it by your experience to know if it was healthy/safe. Appreciate the vids and love your podcast style checklist series, spectacular work!
Great video Nate, always love learning about finger pulp ;) Would you consider a series on barn-door tension? I find moves regularly where the leading foot choice is not obvious. For example, when there is only one foothold near hip level, I struggle to select which foot to use. A nuanced discussion of front flagging vs. back flagging would be wonderful.
I have a currently fascination with barn door tension so I would love to talk on that! I think front flags are highly underrated as well. Can you elaborate on that second part about leading foot choice? I want to make sure I fully understand what you’re saying.
@@NateDrolet sometimes I have a hard time deciding if using my left foot or right foot is the better option. I find this most often occurs when there is a barn door tension move and the only obvious foothold available is near the fulcrum. Usually, the best foot choice for me can be sussed out through trial and error but at the expense of the flash.
Hi Nate, do you have any tips or advice for those of us with hyper mobile finger joints? Crimps are super challenging for me because my fingers bend so much! I just started watching your videos by the way, great content 😁
Hey Maria, this one is tough and I haven't heard of a consensus around how to approach this yet, but it's something I put a decent amount of thought into because I've got fairly mobile DIP joints as well. I think there's a lot of value in getting strong in a mix of grip positions (crimp, half crimp, front three and four finger open hand), and in trying to train the half and full crimp in more slow or even static environments first to build some robustness in those grips rather than only using really dynamic climbing on small holds to train them. I wish I had a more thorough answer for you, but that's about as much as I feel confident in saying at the moment.
I noticed doing this unconsciously, especially on a fingerboard, but sometimes on boulders as well. Only after watching this video I realized that I need to start doing this intentionally
It can! It actually works really well for small footholds, but it chews up the front of your shoes very quickly. I used to do it all the time, but had to train myself to only do it when needed otherwise I'd blow through shoes every 2 months. I love that idea for confident lead climbing while onsights. I'll put that down on the list.
I love the minutiae. I'd love to see movement patterns for shoulders. I am currently doing a lot of physio for my shoulders and my climbing physiotherapist says he's never seen my shoulder pattern where my scapula come in when trying to raise my arms. He sent me this video: ua-cam.com/video/t9TtrBnjKOw/v-deo.htmlsi=KriYhpJlagITIDjZ I'd love to see how this carries forward to climbing specific movements.
I'll put this on the list for the future! This is a bit of a tough one because we don't really have established standards for what "good" shoulder movement looks like in climbing. I do think there are a few mechanics that are worth considering when training and performing, but I'll likely need to bring in a PT or someone else with clinical qualifications to team up with and do the topic justice.
The Bob Ross of climbing instruction 😆 - fascinating video, smooth voice 👍
I’ve been climbing for 12+ years at a decent level and this was mind blowing. Thanks🎉
I'm glad to hear that! Thanks for watching!
Yes definitely more minutia
As soon as you started explaining this I recognised the motion as something I'd seen high-level climbers do
More minutiae, this video was definitely useful and something that I haven't seen anywhere on UA-cam. I need more actionable advice like this! keep them coming thank you.
Thanks, I'm glad to hear you found it useful! I'll be sure to keep this kind of thing going
You used the phrase "setting the skin" and I will now always think of it like that. Thank you!
I'm glad it helped!
Yes please do discuss split care! My pinks are continually split at the joint.
Will do!
Literally mind blowing video. More technical minutia like this 🙏
Thanks! And thanks for the input. I’ll continue rolling out the deep dives into small things
It’s not often that a video called „get stronger at crimps“ actually has cool info and not just a recommendation to hangboarding xD
Thanks for that!
Incredible video, I recently realized this myself and crimps have been feeling a lot better. I didn't understand it was due to getting more skin behind the holds, I thought it was due to getting more of my joint on the hold. Really looking forward to more videos like this on minutiae to understand techniques that are not so obvious!
Thanks!
Hey Nate, great episode! I am in the minority here, as I’ve always felt great on crimps but very out of control on slopers or even open jugs, so an episode on that sounds good.
Also, I’m looking forward to more in depth episodes on movement, e.g, I had a huge progress using your rooting drills, so a rooting special would be a true gem, I’m sure 😊
What he said^^^
Thanks! I've got a quite a few sloper videos already planned as well as some deeper dives into rooting. Are there any specific situations with jugs or slopers where your climbing feels the most out of control?
@@NateDroletSlopers kinda rightfully feel hard for me because I don't train them. They are not common near my home crags, but every once in a while they appear, but that makes it hard for me to prioritise training for them :( I'm not even sure I'm out of control, maybe it's just a nature of climbing on them, or a regular feeling when oin slopers, maybe I'm just not used to it, versus the control I feel when I full crimp an edge.
The open jugs are funny tho, because you kinda expect that you will feel in control, but in some positions (them being sidepulls, or being in a back flag so you have to pull on them one sided - they just feel hard to control.Again, maybe it's just slightly uncomfortable feeling you get from an open holds, regardless of how deep it is, so it might be the same issue I explained with the slopers.
Just tried this at the gym and it was a definite game changer…
I've seen Adam Ondra talk about this, but I often forget it and don't think to use it while I'm climbing but with your very clear explanation and the simple concept to "overshoot", I think (i hope) I'll remember more easily when I will go climbing, so thank you (sorry for my english...I'm french and we are notoriously known to suck at english ;) )
So simple and logical! Love this type of strategic minutiae.
Completely agree, I've see Aidan Roberts do this drag into small edges constantly.
Thought of this video when one of my athletes mentioned she was struggling to keep hanging on the hangboard in the 3 finger open hand position - sent this over to her to see if this concept clicks for her. I know I think about this when I'm stepping up to the hangboard! Thanks again for the awesome education, Nate!
This makes so much sense. I would do this for guppying holds by rolling my thumb meat to get more friction.
Great content. Sort of finally end up doing this at limit moves through a process of failing and learning, test-grabbing crimps in different ways. But I never actually attributed it to more active surface area due to skin plasticity and its deformative capacity, just assumed it was muscle-tendon unit memory, more weight into feet, smoother weight shifts. Can't wait to test it out on some outdoor crimp projects. :) Makes total sense! Would love to see more nuggets from you.
This explains something i never understood about why a hold sometimes feels nice and sometimes not when limit projecting. I was aware of this variable but not of any practical solution yo gripping technique to make it consisty. Ty ty, cant wait to expirement with this a bit.
im bouldering 4 months now, i will try this technique today. 2 days ago i have made my first heelhook
Love the detailed explanation. Would love to see more detailed discussion on pockets and lumbrical injuries as I feel like that is overshadowed by the crimp / pulley discussion
Very helpful. I’ve never really thought about this, but I now realize that I do this subconsciously on the 6mm part of my hangboard. I hav ego get perfectly positioned and roll my fingers to make it work. It’s silly that this never really occurred to me with actual climbing though. I’ll be experimenting with this on the wall this week.
Thanks a millions for this.
Superbe content - I did this often but always unconcious Gonna try this on my proj I would really like to see more en detail videos like this one Microbeta, Microhacks for the advanced climbers Heel and toehooks in depth would also interest me Thanks nate for your work, it si amazing
Thank you! I like the idea of a microbeta series. I've already got a few outlined for things like heel hooks and kneebars, and it would be fun to do one with toe hooks too.
Very cool! I never thought about it, but I think I've already been doing the "roll". I always thought it was weird, but now I feel less weird. Thanks for the explanation and demonstration! I'm going to be more thoughtful about this now.
Appreciate this content! I would love to see more detailed demos on footwork, and how to get more from a) good foot placement and b) transferring the support of your feet through your legs and core.
Thanks! Will do! I've already got plans to go into depth on foot placement, and I'll add transferring weight into the feet to the list as well.
Hi,
Love your videos. I've watch them all😋
I'd like to hear tips on how to switch feet holding underclings on steep wall.
Cheers
I'm digging the simplicity of the editing. No bs music or crazy cuts. Just great info.
I personally love minutiae. Other tips on other hold types would be cool. I'd personally also enjoy subjects around setting homewalls and climbing hold design stuff. Maybe not for commercial use, but maybe for replicas or effective training to translate outdoors. I make a lot of my own holds so that a pretty niche interest, but maybe there's some general applicability?
Another cool subject not often discussed is pacing while climbing. When is slower or faster better etc.
Thanks! And thank you for the video suggestions. I just finished a homewall build earlier this year, and it's given me a lot of new thoughts on how they are set and their purpose. I definitely plan on diving into that.
Pacing is one of my favorite topics. That will be on the list for sure.
Excellent video! I've been climbing for over a decade and I've never heard this talked about before. Excited to give it try and play around with it the next time I'm in the gym. Looking forward to learning more.
Thank you so much, Nate, for the amazing content! I've been climbing since I was a child, and I am quite a technically instinctive climber, which is amazing, but sometimes I feel like I'm on a technical plateau because of it. That's why I really appreciate this kind of attention to detail on technique.
For future videos, I would love to have your insight on how to find flaws in our technique. I have tried videoing myself, but even though I'm far from perfect, I have no idea what to change and what technical weaknesses I should focus on. I just don't know what I should look at other than "does it look good?" whatever that means.
Anyway, I'm super excited to see more content like this, keep it up!
Thanks for the kind words! Self-assessment is a big topic, but it's one I absolutely plan on covering!
Definitely spilt care
Step 1: More Tacos
Lol eating tacos as I'm reading this. No splits in sight. Can confirm.@@NateDrolet
This is awesome!! Loving the content nate, no bullshit!! 🤯🤘
Thanks!
Ha you just described my whole climbing style in a nutshell. I throw 3 finger drag to everything then roll in after I catch. My friends all hate the noise my finger nails make when I crimp in. I’m amazed by the degree of compliance in your first pad! Mine does not move nearly that much!
Being good at latching with front three is such a great skill to have! That extra reach you get from it can be so helpful. That's interesting about your first pad having less compliance. If you end up measuring it at any point let me know what it ends up being.
please make the video on how to heal splits on your seams
Will do!
Crazy how much of climbing comes down to being able to manipulate the contact between your skin and the rock (or your rubber and the rock.) I remember talking about this (rolling on to crimps) with you and Ravioli in Hueco over a decade ago!
Agreed, there's so much important work that goes on within our bodies, but those contact points with the rock make such a huge difference in our performance.
Lower limb technique is often overlooked... Especially when one of them isn't loaded on a hold. There's no passengers along for the ride when climbing, despite what my awful technique says
Can you elaborate on what you mean by "lower limb"?
@@NateDrolet hips, trailing leg, ankle/toe engagement etc. I've self-discovered that I was using these very passively, which resulted in over compensation from my upper body
Any tips/content on this would be greatly appreciated
@@JimClimber Thanks for clarifying. I've got a bunch of videos planned for leg and foot work!
I’ve been climbing v3 for 15 years and literally have never heard this 🤯
More skin, fingers, and crimp talk!
Will do!
Yeah this minutiae is awesome and really works
This partially explains why I tend to crimp well, I do this naturally and never realized that not everyone does! It also explains why, I struggle with splits at my first joint and sometimes a few CM closer to the tip of my fingers in the middle of my pulp. I'd love some tips on how to prevent this and heal them faster. Its a never ending battle for me
Great stuff! I would love an in depth talk on the rose move. It is something that has always given me trouble and I cannot find any good content out there on it.
Thanks! Is there any specific part of rose moves you find the most challenging?
@@NateDrolet yes the unwind for me is especially hard. Usually I am able to make the initial cross but often get stuck mid unwind and come off the wall.
@@joshuaapplebaum5711 That's super helpful to know. Thanks!
This was incredibly useful immediately. Would you recommend using this technique while hang boarding? And would love to hear more about specifics regarding grip types, techniques, what/when they’re good, etc!
I'm glad to hear it! I do use this technique while doing hangs, especially on smaller edges in the 10mm and under range or when I'm doing open handed hangs. I'm not as exaggerated with it as I would be when I'm getting my skin behind a sharp incut crimp, but even just a little bit of taking the slack out will make a hang feel more secure and consistent set to set
@@NateDrolet Absolutely, tried this out during my hang board workout yesterday and suddenly found the 14mm edges on the beast maker 2000 very doable. Still relatively new to climbing/hang boarding though so wanted to run it by your experience to know if it was healthy/safe.
Appreciate the vids and love your podcast style checklist series, spectacular work!
Great video Nate, always love learning about finger pulp ;) Would you consider a series on barn-door tension? I find moves regularly where the leading foot choice is not obvious. For example, when there is only one foothold near hip level, I struggle to select which foot to use. A nuanced discussion of front flagging vs. back flagging would be wonderful.
I have a currently fascination with barn door tension so I would love to talk on that! I think front flags are highly underrated as well.
Can you elaborate on that second part about leading foot choice? I want to make sure I fully understand what you’re saying.
@@NateDrolet sometimes I have a hard time deciding if using my left foot or right foot is the better option. I find this most often occurs when there is a barn door tension move and the only obvious foothold available is near the fulcrum. Usually, the best foot choice for me can be sussed out through trial and error but at the expense of the flash.
Hi Nate, do you have any tips or advice for those of us with hyper mobile finger joints? Crimps are super challenging for me because my fingers bend so much!
I just started watching your videos by the way, great content 😁
Hey Maria, this one is tough and I haven't heard of a consensus around how to approach this yet, but it's something I put a decent amount of thought into because I've got fairly mobile DIP joints as well.
I think there's a lot of value in getting strong in a mix of grip positions (crimp, half crimp, front three and four finger open hand), and in trying to train the half and full crimp in more slow or even static environments first to build some robustness in those grips rather than only using really dynamic climbing on small holds to train them.
I wish I had a more thorough answer for you, but that's about as much as I feel confident in saying at the moment.
I apologize in advance for the associated nail grinding
Great video, came here from instagram
Yes to minutiae!
Nice
ideas for band names number 97: "Fleshy Wedge"
Been climbing about a year and never even CONSIDERED this.
I noticed doing this unconsciously, especially on a fingerboard, but sometimes on boulders as well. Only after watching this video I realized that I need to start doing this intentionally
Could this also be applied to feet? Curious to experiment. Great video, would love a deeper dive on confident lead climbing specifically for onsites
It can! It actually works really well for small footholds, but it chews up the front of your shoes very quickly. I used to do it all the time, but had to train myself to only do it when needed otherwise I'd blow through shoes every 2 months.
I love that idea for confident lead climbing while onsights. I'll put that down on the list.
I ❤ minutiae
So, would you say... crimpin' ain't easy?
I love the minutiae. I'd love to see movement patterns for shoulders. I am currently doing a lot of physio for my shoulders and my climbing physiotherapist says he's never seen my shoulder pattern where my scapula come in when trying to raise my arms. He sent me this video:
ua-cam.com/video/t9TtrBnjKOw/v-deo.htmlsi=KriYhpJlagITIDjZ
I'd love to see how this carries forward to climbing specific movements.
I'll put this on the list for the future! This is a bit of a tough one because we don't really have established standards for what "good" shoulder movement looks like in climbing. I do think there are a few mechanics that are worth considering when training and performing, but I'll likely need to bring in a PT or someone else with clinical qualifications to team up with and do the topic justice.
Video starts 4:15
I ❤ minutiae