Hi Kodi, she runs and shifts like a champ now👍 I still haven't been out fishing or testing the TD-20 yet. Roofers just got done with the roof this week and waiting on the gutter guys to show up. As soon as that is done out on the lake. Also painting the Merc Mark 10. She'll be purdy😁
You better watch out if Billy Ray sees you swapping Johnson pants with Evinrude he might blow a fuse he’ll fix you good LOL Great job see you in the next one 👍🏻🤘🏻
Hey Cody- Have you ever included in one of your vids how to adjust shift lever handle to take up clutch dog slack on early 70's johns/evin ? I resealed the lower on my 73 johns 25hp and clutch dog did not appeared rounded on forward or reverse dog or gears and my Clymer manual is not clear on this procedure - getting a heavy thump when increased rpms @ 5mph- any ideas or have done a vid on this?
I'd also love to see you tear into the old lower unit to see just what damage there is. Do you think the case and/or propshaft itself would still be usable?
I am working with my grandson on 78 Merc 1150. We have essentially rebuilt the entire engine. It is running smoother now after some carb adjustments and they were freshened. Still having some drivability issues including random rough idle and stalling. Also it dies out after a minute or two at WOT. Any wisdom you can share on the three idle adjustments on this carb. We have not begun to sus out the starving issue at WOT but suspect a flow issue in the lines. Any suggestions there as well
Adjust each carb individually, in gear at idle. Turn mixture screw adjusting one carb at a time ,clockwise until it slows down or begins to lean sneeze. Then back it out 1/4-1/2 turn, do that for each carb.
Typical problem with giving that info is that people has a tendency to see that particular episode and know what was paid, that same person NEVER considers what it takes to get the motor going again. They just insist on giving LOW amount bc you ONLY PAID a little for it, NOT what was put into it nor the TIME it takes to get it running again. I think what Kodi can profit is his BUSINESS since that pays the bills! How many people you know that run a business and give away profit? Not trying to be a jerk, just being realistic!
Wife says your trimmed beard fits you better but had no opinion on that nice motor you were working on. Told her (politely, of course) that she ought to have her priorities straighten out. LOL !
Well, that was a shame.... Even the slightest attempt at routine maintenance probably would have caught the leak issue before the whole thing got ruined. Wonder where the leak was...I have seen very few seal/oring leakage issues on these gearcases, they are pretty rugged. Perhaps there was a load of fishline in the prop shaft at one time, who knows. Like you say, the complete assemblies will swap out for all the years they were made, although there are some slight internal differences. You must be sure to use the correct driveshaft as well, oring vs non oring driveshafts. I have often wondered about the zinc where the exhaust/water relief holes used to be though. Seems like using the newer style gearcase on older models might create a bit of an exhaust relief issue, but I don't see any issue with using the older style on the newer engine like you have done. Someday, I will have to look into this more closely. I am confused about what you were pointing out about the interlock being jammed/not being able to get it out of gear though. In this case, it wouldn't come out of gear cuz it was just rusted up inside, I get that. But what jams with the interlock causing it not to come out of gear on an operational gearcase? Admittedly, never got too much experience with the newer models, only worked on a few of them, do remember the pesky recoil interlock though. Was never a fan of these front shift models. A relatively short throw shift lever, coupled with a poor neutral detent, seems like it would encourage inadvertent jamming from one gear to another and internal damage. Sure hope this customer will try to take a little better care of this engine, he is lucky that your great parts collection saved his butt. PS, let me know if you need an inner exhaust tube for that 6-8hp you showed in your other video, to replace the rotted one. I have several of these on hand. Folks price them like they are gold, so I buy them when priced resaonbly. The same goes for the old style 6hp shift levers, I seem to have cornered the market on those items as well.
Yeah, I seem to concentrate on some very hard to find/unreasonably priced parts, then collect them in preparation for the days when this stuff gets really hard to find.
Don,I just picked up one of these but newer a 2000 15HP Johnson no gearcase great topend from local marina. Did you ever swap the guts from old style gearcase(1974-92) to a new style casing (1993& Up)?Was curious looks doable you mentioned internal differences. I have plenty of old gearcases but want to keep this motor true to its year. I have a lead on a proper casing also locally.Oh also cant tell you how many times I have seen two drain plug gaskets on one plug and nothing on the other with loosely tightened drain plugs. Novices dont have a clue to look out for that,Ha! .Very common problem with water intrusion & yes plus the fishing line deal too. Happy New Year! Glenn
@@OutBoardTink62 I haven't ever done that, but I guess we would have to compare the two parts lists to know for sure. God bless you for keeping the engine original. It really breaks my heart to see these engines get destroyed needlessly, so preventable.
@@fleetwin1 Yeah what happens down the road from being new is screwed up for many outboards many people just want to get it done and dont care or just plain neglect them. Local guy here wants $400 for a gearcase Im spoiled no way,LOLLL! Ill find one before the Spring they made alot of them I know some people...
my 92 rudie poo 9.9 wouldnt start,., shot pre mix into the carb , still wouldnt start,,, removed carb shot premix into the reed plate and it will start.., compression fluctuates between 60 and 70 on one cylinder and 70 and 80 on the other,, pulled head and gasket and head looks great,.,, pulled engine apart and cylinders look glazed.., measured cylinder diameter and they are in spec.. heres my theory...im thinking that two strokes , unlike 4 strokes require more vacuum to be able to run, because they have to generate enough vacuum to open the reed valves, and then create enough vacuum thru the carburetors venturi to pull fuel vapor into the cylinder.. where as in a 4 stroke, this is not the case..
Thank you , can You tell me @ What point in the Video, That It was ? I want to correct it, I could not hear it But will Do what I can, under You tube EDIT to fix it,, Thank You , I So thank you for pointing this out & I will do My Best to Fix It, Again Thank you, kodibass
Hi Kodi, she runs and shifts like a champ now👍 I still haven't been out fishing or testing the TD-20 yet. Roofers just got done with the roof this week and waiting on the gutter guys to show up. As soon as that is done out on the lake. Also painting the Merc Mark 10. She'll be purdy😁
You better watch out if Billy Ray sees you swapping Johnson pants with Evinrude he might blow a fuse he’ll fix you good LOL Great job see you in the next one 👍🏻🤘🏻
Another great video
Great job thanks for your info and videos
Hey Cody- Have you ever included in one of your vids how to adjust shift lever handle to take up clutch dog slack on early 70's johns/evin ? I resealed the lower on my 73 johns 25hp and clutch dog did not appeared rounded on forward or reverse dog or gears and my Clymer manual is not clear on this procedure - getting a heavy thump when increased rpms @ 5mph- any ideas or have done a vid on this?
Any videos about suzuki 15hp two sroke 2019 or any year (overhaul)?
How much oil goes into the lower unit of a 15hp evinrude outdoor motor?
As always saved another one 👍
Please can you do an autopsy on this lower unit? Would really like to learn
Ditto
I'd also love to see you tear into the old lower unit to see just what damage there is. Do you think the case and/or propshaft itself would still be usable?
I am working with my grandson on 78 Merc 1150. We have essentially rebuilt the entire engine. It is running smoother now after some carb adjustments and they were freshened. Still having some drivability issues including random rough idle and stalling. Also it dies out after a minute or two at WOT. Any wisdom you can share on the three idle adjustments on this carb. We have not begun to sus out the starving issue at WOT but suspect a flow issue in the lines. Any suggestions there as well
Adjust each carb individually, in gear at idle. Turn mixture screw adjusting one carb at a time ,clockwise until it slows down or begins to lean sneeze. Then back it out 1/4-1/2 turn, do that for each carb.
Was fuel pump rebuilt along with carbs? New fuel lines installed?
@@Vintageoutboardreviver Yes the pump was rebuilt and all fuel lines replaced.
@@Vintageoutboardreviver I will give this a try. Thank you for your input.
There is a horrible squeaky sounds in background I'm partly deaf and hurts my ears I'm sorry for complaining about it love ur videos keep me going
ya that is painful lol
I think we d like to start hearing what you paid for some of these and what they sell for up there in Alaska.
Typical problem with giving that info is that people has a tendency to see that particular episode and know what was paid, that same person NEVER considers what it takes to get the motor going again. They just insist on giving LOW amount bc you ONLY PAID a little for it, NOT what was put into it nor the TIME it takes to get it running again.
I think what Kodi can profit is his BUSINESS since that pays the bills! How many people you know that run a business and give away profit?
Not trying to be a jerk, just being realistic!
Tenho um evinride 7.5 , agora se como fazer uma manutenção 👏👏👍🇧🇷
I've just used marine grease on the prop shaft, is anti seize better?
Wife says your trimmed beard fits you better but had no opinion on that nice motor you were working on. Told her (politely, of course) that she ought to have her priorities straighten out. LOL !
Well, that was a shame.... Even the slightest attempt at routine maintenance probably would have caught the leak issue before the whole thing got ruined. Wonder where the leak was...I have seen very few seal/oring leakage issues on these gearcases, they are pretty rugged. Perhaps there was a load of fishline in the prop shaft at one time, who knows.
Like you say, the complete assemblies will swap out for all the years they were made, although there are some slight internal differences. You must be sure to use the correct driveshaft as well, oring vs non oring driveshafts. I have often wondered about the zinc where the exhaust/water relief holes used to be though. Seems like using the newer style gearcase on older models might create a bit of an exhaust relief issue, but I don't see any issue with using the older style on the newer engine like you have done. Someday, I will have to look into this more closely.
I am confused about what you were pointing out about the interlock being jammed/not being able to get it out of gear though. In this case, it wouldn't come out of gear cuz it was just rusted up inside, I get that. But what jams with the interlock causing it not to come out of gear on an operational gearcase? Admittedly, never got too much experience with the newer models, only worked on a few of them, do remember the pesky recoil interlock though. Was never a fan of these front shift models. A relatively short throw shift lever, coupled with a poor neutral detent, seems like it would encourage inadvertent jamming from one gear to another and internal damage.
Sure hope this customer will try to take a little better care of this engine, he is lucky that your great parts collection saved his butt.
PS, let me know if you need an inner exhaust tube for that 6-8hp you showed in your other video, to replace the rotted one. I have several of these on hand. Folks price them like they are gold, so I buy them when priced resaonbly. The same goes for the old style 6hp shift levers, I seem to have cornered the market on those items as well.
Yeah, I seem to concentrate on some very hard to find/unreasonably priced parts, then collect them in preparation for the days when this stuff gets really hard to find.
Don,I just picked up one of these but newer a 2000 15HP Johnson no gearcase great topend from local marina. Did you ever swap the guts from old style gearcase(1974-92) to a new style casing (1993& Up)?Was curious looks doable you mentioned internal differences. I have plenty of old gearcases but want to keep this motor true to its year. I have a lead on a proper casing also locally.Oh also cant tell you how many times I have seen two drain plug gaskets on one plug and nothing on the other with loosely tightened drain plugs. Novices dont have a clue to look out for that,Ha! .Very common problem with water intrusion & yes plus the fishing line deal too. Happy New Year! Glenn
@@OutBoardTink62 I haven't ever done that, but I guess we would have to compare the two parts lists to know for sure. God bless you for keeping the engine original. It really breaks my heart to see these engines get destroyed needlessly, so preventable.
@@fleetwin1 Yeah what happens down the road from being new is screwed up for many outboards many people just want to get it done and dont care or just plain neglect them. Local guy here wants $400 for a gearcase Im spoiled no way,LOLLL! Ill find one before the Spring they made alot of them I know some people...
@@OutBoardTink62 He wants $400 for just the case?? Folks price this stuff like it is gold. You will find a reasonable one soon...
my 92 rudie poo 9.9 wouldnt start,., shot pre mix into the carb , still wouldnt start,,, removed carb shot premix into the reed plate and it will start.., compression fluctuates between 60 and 70 on one cylinder and 70 and 80 on the other,, pulled head and gasket and head looks great,.,, pulled engine apart and cylinders look glazed.., measured cylinder diameter and they are in spec.. heres my theory...im thinking that two strokes , unlike 4 strokes require more vacuum to be able to run, because they have to generate enough vacuum to open the reed valves, and then create enough vacuum thru the carburetors venturi to pull fuel vapor into the cylinder.. where as in a 4 stroke, this is not the case..
That squealing noise is unbearable
Thank you , can You tell me @ What point in the Video, That It was ? I want to correct it, I could not hear it But will Do what I can, under You tube EDIT to fix it,, Thank You , I So thank you for pointing this out & I will do My Best to Fix It, Again Thank you, kodibass