As a Dryliner My only problem is Damp on Site I WALK OFF SITE IF THE BOARDS ARE WET/DAMP I Don't use Single Screws. I use Screw Strips= Less Hand work. Although 90% is Double Ply for Soundproofing. Nice to see a Regular person attempting Studded Walls👍 EDIT Only 1 thing.....Rough edge too the Floor. Rough edge is now hidden by Skirting rail👍
As a plasterer... the sharper the blade, the more itll go off course, also u dnt need to cut a 3rd of way? Judt score the paper and itll give u a cleaner cut aswell
Fantastic set of tips! Impeccable timing as I'm just about to start a stud wall and drywalling project. I'll be buying those drywall bits momentarily. A tips video on taping and jointing wouldn't go a miss 😜
I bought a brand new drywall lifter a few years ago off Ebay for about £100. I used it to lift a dozen boards and then I sold it again on Ebay. I thought that even if I only got half of what I bought it for then it would still be cheaper than hiring one. The winning bid was just over £125 ! I thought it was crazy, someone bidding for a second hand item for more than they could buy a brand new one. BUT.... it got even crazier. The guy who bought it lived in the same town where i had got it from in the first place, and then driven his Range rover from Essex to Staffordshire and back, a round trip of over 250 miles!!!!
When I was doing a lot of plaster boarding during a home renovation I picked up an inexpensive aluminium L angle. Perfect for using as a cutting guide and is 2.5m in length. Use it all the time now as get much more accurate cuts / lines.
Great video Tim. My tip is to put your plaster board stack on some trestles so you don’t have to work on your hands and knees. And get a big 1.2m square
@@roberthart4224 i find long cuts across the width of the board is easier on the ground but if im just making the board shorter i find it much quicker with the boards leaned against a wall ontop of 2 pieces of 4x2
Tim. When gluing plaster board and using less fixings. You should consider using temporary fixing blocks in areas you ultimately do not want screws. Plaster board is flexible and can bow when you fix around the edges, that causes hollow spots in the centre. Temporary fixings stop that happening. Use off cuts of plasterboard in squares as large washers to spread the load and screw through those to you wall. Once the glues is dry remove the temporary fixings (yes there are small holes to patch but it's better than a loose and holow wall. I hope that helps D
I go round with a square and quickly mark the centre of the studs on the floor. That way if your putting up anything on the walls like cupboards etc it’s quick to find the studs. Also you can place the laser line on it when the plasterboard covers over the stud.
I always do the ceiling first. That way the plasterboard on the walls holds the edges of the ceiling boards in place. If you don't they can sag, especially the 9mm stuff, and that looks unsightly and more prone to cracks along the corner.
I don't know if it's just the screwfix screws I get but I always get metal splinters from plasterboard screws. pretty much the only job I wear gloves for just to avoid them.
Totally agree on the plasterboard lift, I struggled my way through all the ceilings in my house with just me and my old man up a tower. I never got on with those drywall bits personally, the ones I had still seamed to go too deep and obscured your view so you couldn't stop short, just went with the old fashioned PH2's in the end. I actually quite like using an impact on a lower power, much lighter working overhead.
Yeah a lift is a must, especially on 3m+ ceilings like our old house. Perhaps some bits deeper than others, I know you can buy adjustable depth collars too which might help. 👍
One thing I liked to do when fitting boards horizontally on top of eachother was to lay a temporary 2mm spacer between the boards so that the join wasn't under the strain of the top board.
Tip number 11. Make sure you score along the right side of the spirit level. I'm sure I haven't had my last time of putting a nice score line following the indentation of the bubble 😡
Calcium sure, but sulphate is what it's used for as a fertiliser. Quite the colourful history fought over gypsum, an interesting read if you want! Thanks for the tips all the same 👍🏼
Make yourself a Plasterboard box/coffin for cutting on, cut a sheet in half 600mm length ways, then score 600mm in, snap and fold, screw a piece of timber on all 4 corners, then screw together to make a box.. place your boards on so your not working on the floor cutting.. also boardmates.. your can get them on ebay for £7 are really handy for boarding ceilings by yourself.. Dewalt collated screwgun is a great bit of kit for the price, just as good as a hilti for less than half the cost👍
I do like these more 'basic' videos. Perhaps more for the DIYer - Screwfix do a good 1.2m T square (Magusson) for cutting plasterboard, it is riveted sp you need to check for square when you buy but mine was square and at the time I was surprised how cheap it was, a decent straight edge for plywood etc too as can be hooked like a speedsquare.
Just after I finished the last of the plaster work in my current house, I was at Bunnings (hardware store here) and saw a collated screw gun on the run-out items table. I said to wifey, "that would have been handy doing the ceiling". Next thing you know I'm walking out of the store before she could change her mind when she said you should get it.... no backsie's, I'm outta here 🤣
Hi Tim, i am filling in an archway between our lounge and dining room. how much space do you recommend to leave for a skimming coat of plaster? 2-3mm - so if i build the stud wall with 15mm space for plasterboard (12.5mm) and skimming?
Once converted a large bedroom into a bathroom dividing the room into a large shower room with an equally large walk in airing cupboard and bathroom. After erecting stud walls to produce the required rooms which gave us perfectly flat walls on which to tile the client decided he would insulate the wall between airing cupboard and shower and pumped expanding foam into the gaps between studs. By the time we arrived the following day to commence tiling the foam had expanded in lumps which bowed the plasterboard and caused so much damage the boards had to be removed, foam cleaned out and wall re-boarded. Not a good idea for expanding foam.
Yeah, definitely don't use expanding foam, it will pop the screws within minutes/hours. If using an adhesive I would only use a gun grade PU or polymer adhesive of some sort.
Carpet fitter friend of mine always had a wet stone/sharpening stone in his pocket to save on blades. It'll surprise you long they can last with just a quick lick over
@@TheRestorationCouple Ah ok, that makes sense. I think there is a chance your views might be confused as to the final location of the new dwelling and how you will perform the move of the two halfs. The build so far has been immaculate from a construction point of view.
15:17 Roger @ Skillbuilder did a video once saying how plasterboard gives off hydrogen sulphide if it goes to landfill, just wondered if you'd looked into this in any detail?
@@TheRestorationCouple I guess in your location it won't be an issue, apparently it's quite toxic and reason why you can't put it in a skip, glad to see the progress you're making.
Sure... plasterboard tip: Have someone else do it! It's a pain and not worth what you save in time vs money unless you work a minimum wage job, in which case: get good and become a plasterer to double your income. A professional plasterer can do the work in half the time and leave a better result than you can. Your time is valuable and you only get it once, so use it wisely.
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Worth mentioning that we are using panelling on the ceilings otherwise. we would have boarded that first. 👍
As a Dryliner
My only problem is Damp on Site
I WALK OFF SITE IF THE BOARDS ARE WET/DAMP
I Don't use Single Screws. I use Screw Strips= Less Hand work.
Although 90% is Double Ply for Soundproofing.
Nice to see a Regular person attempting Studded Walls👍
EDIT
Only 1 thing.....Rough edge too the Floor.
Rough edge is now hidden by Skirting rail👍
As a plasterer... the sharper the blade, the more itll go off course, also u dnt need to cut a 3rd of way? Judt score the paper and itll give u a cleaner cut aswell
Agree, blunt blades are fine, if it stats to drag just lower the angle of the knife.
Also i find that a light score underneath after snapping the board allows the cut section to break off cleaner leaving a flatter raw edge.
@@welshherow2603it’s when it starts taking the paper with it it needs a change. I hate a fresh blade
Was screaming DWANGS there! Glad you had it hahahahaha!
Fantastic set of tips! Impeccable timing as I'm just about to start a stud wall and drywalling project. I'll be buying those drywall bits momentarily. A tips video on taping and jointing wouldn't go a miss 😜
Getting yourself a fluffy dog to help with the dust. That cracked me up 🤣🤣🤣👍👍
I bought a brand new drywall lifter a few years ago off Ebay for about £100. I used it to lift a dozen boards and then I sold it again on Ebay. I thought that even if I only got half of what I bought it for then it would still be cheaper than hiring one. The winning bid was just over £125 ! I thought it was crazy, someone bidding for a second hand item for more than they could buy a brand new one. BUT.... it got even crazier. The guy who bought it lived in the same town where i had got it from in the first place, and then driven his Range rover from Essex to Staffordshire and back, a round trip of over 250 miles!!!!
When I was doing a lot of plaster boarding during a home renovation I picked up an inexpensive aluminium L angle. Perfect for using as a cutting guide and is 2.5m in length. Use it all the time now as get much more accurate cuts / lines.
Thanks for this I am about to tackle this job, going down the drylining route too
Great video Tim. My tip is to put your plaster board stack on some trestles so you don’t have to work on your hands and knees. And get a big 1.2m square
he already knows this. He said he PREFERS putting on the ground... it's actually quicker to cut it this way.
but yes, it is more back work.
@@roberthart4224 i find long cuts across the width of the board is easier on the ground but if im just making the board shorter i find it much quicker with the boards leaned against a wall ontop of 2 pieces of 4x2
Tim. When gluing plaster board and using less fixings. You should consider using temporary fixing blocks in areas you ultimately do not want screws. Plaster board is flexible and can bow when you fix around the edges, that causes hollow spots in the centre. Temporary fixings stop that happening. Use off cuts of plasterboard in squares as large washers to spread the load and screw through those to you wall. Once the glues is dry remove the temporary fixings (yes there are small holes to patch but it's better than a loose and holow wall. I hope that helps D
I go round with a square and quickly mark the centre of the studs on the floor. That way if your putting up anything on the walls like cupboards etc it’s quick to find the studs. Also you can place the laser line on it when the plasterboard covers over the stud.
Good tip. Magnet every time for finding studs. 👍
raising the plasterboards (or any boards) off of the floors is more than anything to avoid the stepsound transferring into the walls.
I always do the ceiling first. That way the plasterboard on the walls holds the edges of the ceiling boards in place. If you don't they can sag, especially the 9mm stuff, and that looks unsightly and more prone to cracks along the corner.
Yep, ceilings first. Just not in this case as there is no PB going on ceilings.
I don't know if it's just the screwfix screws I get but I always get metal splinters from plasterboard screws. pretty much the only job I wear gloves for just to avoid them.
Me too
Great point, those black bits stay in your skin for ages!
Timing could not be better! Just about to start my own, cheers 👍👍
Perfect!
Totally agree on the plasterboard lift, I struggled my way through all the ceilings in my house with just me and my old man up a tower. I never got on with those drywall bits personally, the ones I had still seamed to go too deep and obscured your view so you couldn't stop short, just went with the old fashioned PH2's in the end. I actually quite like using an impact on a lower power, much lighter working overhead.
Yeah a lift is a must, especially on 3m+ ceilings like our old house. Perhaps some bits deeper than others, I know you can buy adjustable depth collars too which might help. 👍
@@TheRestorationCouple The pain when the plasterer said I could have borrowed his lift for free when he came to skim was real 😅
One thing I liked to do when fitting boards horizontally on top of eachother was to lay a temporary 2mm spacer between the boards so that the join wasn't under the strain of the top board.
Yep, all wallboard manufacturers recommend a small gap 2/3mm between boards. Rarely see it done though, bit of a faff
Tip number 11. Make sure you score along the right side of the spirit level. I'm sure I haven't had my last time of putting a nice score line following the indentation of the bubble 😡
When you're taping the joints put the tape in water as you use it. It adheres better, you don't want it too dry
oh
Calcium sure, but sulphate is what it's used for as a fertiliser. Quite the colourful history fought over gypsum, an interesting read if you want! Thanks for the tips all the same 👍🏼
Thanks for all the tips - Really appreciated. Maggie wants to join in fitting plaster boards 🙂
No insulation in the internals? You will be able to have comversations between rooms pretty well in this place
Yes all insulated. Just not this room screen by the door. 👍
Really helpful video, thanks
I going out to buy myself a fluffy dog before I begin my next project. Thanks for the tip.
Make yourself a Plasterboard box/coffin for cutting on, cut a sheet in half 600mm length ways, then score 600mm in, snap and fold, screw a piece of timber on all 4 corners, then screw together to make a box.. place your boards on so your not working on the floor cutting.. also boardmates.. your can get them on ebay for £7 are really handy for boarding ceilings by yourself.. Dewalt collated screwgun is a great bit of kit for the price, just as good as a hilti for less than half the cost👍
When you're boarding the ceiling use a scaffold, couple of stools and a Planck is quick and easy
Brilliant Timbo, we’ll done. And we’ll done Maggie too for be in big support dog.
I do like these more 'basic' videos. Perhaps more for the DIYer - Screwfix do a good 1.2m T square (Magusson) for cutting plasterboard, it is riveted sp you need to check for square when you buy but mine was square and at the time I was surprised how cheap it was, a decent straight edge for plywood etc too as can be hooked like a speedsquare.
Just after I finished the last of the plaster work in my current house, I was at Bunnings (hardware store here) and saw a collated screw gun on the run-out items table. I said to wifey, "that would have been handy doing the ceiling". Next thing you know I'm walking out of the store before she could change her mind when she said you should get it.... no backsie's, I'm outta here 🤣
Great video
Hi Tim, i am filling in an archway between our lounge and dining room. how much space do you recommend to leave for a skimming coat of plaster? 2-3mm - so if i build the stud wall with 15mm space for plasterboard (12.5mm) and skimming?
Once converted a large bedroom into a bathroom dividing the room into a large shower room with an equally large walk in airing cupboard and bathroom. After erecting stud walls to produce the required rooms which gave us perfectly flat walls on which to tile the client decided he would insulate the wall between airing cupboard and shower and pumped expanding foam into the gaps between studs. By the time we arrived the following day to commence tiling the foam had expanded in lumps which bowed the plasterboard and caused so much damage the boards had to be removed, foam cleaned out and wall re-boarded. Not a good idea for expanding foam.
Yeah, definitely don't use expanding foam, it will pop the screws within minutes/hours. If using an adhesive I would only use a gun grade PU or polymer adhesive of some sort.
Carpet fitter friend of mine always had a wet stone/sharpening stone in his pocket to save on blades. It'll surprise you long they can last with just a quick lick over
Our. carpet fitter used to do exactly the same and must have saved ££'s each year,
@@TheRestorationCouple I wa about to offer that tip!!
Thanks - very helpful
You do not put board on the bottom of stud first.First board goes uptight to ceiling. This gives you
Great video with loads of helpful tips! what glue do you use on the plasterboard?
Acrylic stud adhesive...
Awesome progres
Another great video - quick question, no soundproof/ insulation inside the stud?
Just between all the bedrooms and bathrooms, that was just a room divider by the entrance. 👍
@@TheRestorationCouple Ah ok, that makes sense. I think there is a chance your views might be confused as to the final location of the new dwelling and how you will perform the move of the two halfs. The build so far has been immaculate from a construction point of view.
Love your work 👍
Plaster board screw have sharp slithers that will go in to your fingers and break off use glove to prevent this
Like your video
15:17 Roger @ Skillbuilder did a video once saying how plasterboard gives off hydrogen sulphide if it goes to landfill, just wondered if you'd looked into this in any detail?
Not looked in to it myself but it makes sense to recycle as it has so many uses. 👍
@@TheRestorationCouple I guess in your location it won't be an issue, apparently it's quite toxic and reason why you can't put it in a skip, glad to see the progress you're making.
Knauf screws Tn25 camed with PH bit in box. But not like this drywall bit. Lifespan +-1000screws from 1 bit🤷♂️
Very helpful 👌 Thanks
johny sins as a dryliner
why not set the noggin's to the board to save waste ???
Internal partitions should achieve and Rw of 40 dB minimum. And generally hit 30min fire rating. This partition wont hit either of those targets.
It’s a caravan
´Super 😻😻😻😻😻😻 💯💯💯👍👍👍👍👍👍
Not skimming to keep the weight down hahahhahahaha.mite aswell just have them Japanese style paper walls 🙄
Sure... plasterboard tip: Have someone else do it! It's a pain and not worth what you save in time vs money unless you work a minimum wage job, in which case: get good and become a plasterer to double your income. A professional plasterer can do the work in half the time and leave a better result than you can. Your time is valuable and you only get it once, so use it wisely.
I think you missed this channel's tag line. 😂
Don't attach boards to noggins!!!
Why?
@@charlieshwan5574 differential expansion and contraction of the studs and noggins may lead to cracking of joins and popping of fixing heads
This is painful to watch , so many mistakes , leave it to the professionals lad
In it mate not even basic showing once u can your board down use the off cut board for paccers 😂
Cut not can 😮
Too much talking and not enough wofking!