Alex, I'm the guy that suggested the Pre-Luber on your GN. The top of the Rod Bearings are shot, which you know by now. In-Frame the Rod Bearings and the Mains while you are there. That Knock sensor got the bearings. Back in the day, we would lessen the torque on the Knock Senor to lessen the timing pull. Too tight and it will pick up every noise. Also, measure the rod journal. You may need to add .001 or .002 Rod bearings. Some of these 4.3's were soft. BTW, Rods show up between 2000-2500 rpms. You can also check main bearing health with a good oil gage. Place the vehicle in 2nd gear and run it about 40mph and let off the gas. The crank will lift and the oil pressure will rise. Extreme rises=main brg issue. Good luck NC loves your show.
Great point, when I originally got my Syclone, the flexplate also had a crack in the same area on the original. I'm not super knowledgeable, so I have no idea how this happened. I pulled it after my first re-build on the stock 700R4. What a pain in the ass it was to do that on the cold garage floor. Luckily shes getting a 4L80E right now, tired of re-building 700's hahaha.
Looks like the Flex Plate is bent and wobbling when you are revving the engine and filming it at 38:35, go back and watch that, maybe check the runout on it. Or it could just be out of balance. I would replace it and the torque converter.
@@pcguru12 flex plate definitely looks and sounds cracked. All he needed was something to whack it with when it was pulled away from the converter. Hell even attached to the converter that flex plate makes a very distinctive sound when its cracked.
@@pcguru12 also I've always carried a piece of fuel or waterhose with me. Touch that pan and listen like a Dr with a stethoscope lol you'll know right off if its internal or external
Bowl of cereal - check. Cup of coffee - check. LSC video where Alex fights with mechanical issues that make me feel way better about my own - check check check.
I had a cyclone thay did the same thing. It ended up being a bad wrist pin and bearing on #3. I was puzzled by the knock only being between a particular RPM range. But an old timer that fixed it said some well balanced rotating assemblies in nicer high HP and boosted vehicles might only be effected at a certain position of the pistons stroke since its alreadyso well balanced. He said had I let it get worse eventually the noise would've been noticeable across a wider RPM range. My Cyclone was pretty abused before I got it. So I decided to pull mine apart, have it decked, had the crank maganafluxed and for cracks and polished and put new pistons and rods in it. It ran perfectly until I sold it.
I had similar problem with 1998 GMC savanna van 4.3. It was bend flex plate broken on one side. Looks like your is very off balance it goes left and right as it moves it may grind on something. Blue thing that you are referring is upper oil pan gasket piece. Those gasket that wraps around crank and they separate with time.Anyway you should change oil pan gasket after and it is good opportunity to peel inside bearings.
Retired Automotive Machinist edumated guass. it is either an egg shaped rod/bearing(worn out) that has not spun the bearing yet, piston slap usually found in ultra high mile cars, a cracked piston skirt. Could also be worn thrust bearings as you mentioned however that is unusual in lower mileage engines. regardless it is rotational and internal. The engine is getting work. whether totally inframe or not we shall see. Good luck I will be watching
As a fella who's built thousands of Subarus engines for very similar noises, you're looking at a knock, the 2500-3k rpm range is a pretty common area to hear rod knock especially when it's unloaded. You're in for a rebuild for sure. Good luck, as a local guy I appreciate seeing the local places I use as well being supported.
Watching the engine running with the torque converter unbolted, the flex plate wobbles alot !! It's shaking around when you rev it up.. I believe that is a broken Flex plate... 38:35ish
39:38 does anyone else feel bad that they are excited that he’s digging into the engine because it’s going to be good content? But you know he was real excited to dyno it.
I'm sure someone already commented this, but you were pushing the bearing the wrong way in the AC clutch. :-( The little punch marks around the bearing in the pulley are done as a safety to retain the bearing, The bearing pushes out from the back towards the front and lays them over as it comes out. I was yelling at the TV when you started pushing on at the wrong way, lol.
Cam shafts that drive a distributor and or oil pump off a gear can develop end float that sounds like rod knock. It's basically the cam hammering against the retainer or other obstruction.
Just hearing that noise only, I'd dig around a bit before pulling the engine, but since you saw all that crap on the oil pickup, I would personally just pull it. Thats probably a mass reman motor from the 90s that at the time literally had new parts on a bench next to a stand that got reassembled with absolutely no tear down inspection or tolerance checks as it was reassembled. I went through this in the early 2000's with an Iroc-Z. I found a reman that was still wrapped and sitting on a pallet, got it fairly cheap and swapped it over a weekend. Quick inspection showed it was clean and fresh, didn't even run 45 minutes before it knocked like crazy. I was out all of my money and had to let it sit for almost a year, found ANOTHER fresh reman, that one made it about 500 miles. I remember walking into the builders shop holding a rag with debris in the oil for the 2nd time and saying help me please. He told me both times when he sourced these remans for me that I was playing with fire, but if I insisted on gambling, he'd take my money knowing I'd be back a couple times. His words were "New parts doesn't cover up a bad build". I gave up and towed the car to him. He said he was fine with storing the car in his shop until I had the money to pay him to rebuild one of the 2 bad remans. I told him it would be around 12 months before I had that kind of money, he said it's fine and considered the reman profits a storage fee. Unbeknownst to me, he salvaged what he could from both remans for other customers and used the money to rebuild a shortblock. 2 months after I towed the car and both engines to him he called and said come pick up your car and bring $500 with you. I didn't ask questions, I just assumed the dude was pissed he had my car taking up space. I borrowed money from family, rented a trailer and showed up the next day. Walked in to the shop and he handed me keys, told me what he did, gave me a bunch of receipts and said go do a burn out, shes like new. Put 80k miles on it over 3 years before I sold it.
I wish you where able to come out with a video everyday (I know it’s not realistic) you are the reason I’m attending tech school and have completely changed my confidence while working on cars. Also the reason i desperately want an e55 😅 keep up the fantastic work ❤
You should look into finding the brackets for upper intercooler. There are two brackets that bolt to the bottom of it to give it some rigidity. Otherwise, even under stock boost levels, it can blow off the coupler between the intercooler and the throttle body
Ive ziptied the jaws on a puller together to keep them in place while trying to get stuff off. It helps. But ive also found sometimes using a puller has warped then pulley.
That is rod or rods knocking from excessive bearing clearance from wear. It will eventually make the noise at idle as it gets worse. The Heartbeat Of America. Yes that's what we called that rod knock at the Chevy dealership service department in the late 80s early 90s !!
Test your NGK coil. Based off my experience...Ive had issues with the new NGK ignition coil. Once it warmed up the engine wouldn't stay running and would misfire which sounded like it was knocking. Not sure why but the original one was installed and fixed my issue.
I HAVENT READ THE COMMENTS MAYBE SOMEONE ALREADY COMMENTED THIS BUT I HAD A SIMILAR ISSUE AND IT WAS A CRACKED FLEXPLATE, LITTLE HAIRLINE CRACKS AROUND THE MAIN HUB WHERE IT GETS BOLTED FROM. WORTH CHECKING.
Check the flexplate again. I had a 1990 Blazer that the flexplate had split just outside of the bolt holes. It has a ring that goes on before the flexplate bolts go in. I couldn't see the split all the way around until I took the bolts out and that ring off. But you can hold the crank in place and move the flexplate with a screwdriver. It might move just a little but sounds exactly like a rod knock. Hope this helps.
I heard the knock when you first put fuel in it under acceleration. Gotta take the bottom pan off for sure. Hope it's not bearings or crank walk. As always I guess we'll find out. Hope my dad see these comments too as he watches these as well. Old school GM tech.
You set initial timing with a bad knock sensor so it was automatically retarding the timing. Now new sensor and not compensating so timing may be off. Set your base timing again now the sensor has been replaced.
I'm 50yrs old as of this Christmas eve., I'll never forget the Motor Trend magazine cover of the Cyclone beating the Ferrari F-40 in the 1/4 mile....blew my mind as a young man....✌️
Crazy memories coming back with this project, Alex! I was fifteen, and my buddy got one of these, brand new, for his 16th bday. I mean, I was aware it was a hot ride (not stolen,) but ridiculous g with him got so much attention it was unreal. Today, I can't get past the thought "what sort of parent buys a typhoon for his kids 16th?" North shore parents, what can I say?
The end, all stuff is around the pickup, and some of that is bearing whether rod, cam or main i don't know but it's blocking the pickup causing starvation off idle, time to pull engine and rebuild. Maybe get a more aggressive cam, and some forged goodies.
Your videos are the equivalent of my Saturday morning cartoons. Out of all of the YT’ers that I watch, yours are the ones I religiously watch when they drop. I really digging the Syclone and I can’t wait to see some progress on the Lightning this winter, but I get how it gets pushed back. I make content on many different vehicles as well, and my ’47 Plymouth always seems to be the last one I get around to working on and filming. My Focus ST seems to steal the most of my time, with my ‘04 F250 Harley Davidson edition coming in a close second. Then mix in all of the flips and detailing videos, and time just gets away from me. Do you think perhaps you could soon do a vehicle update video? I haven’t seen the GTR or the McLaren in a while as well as some others. Thank you for putting out great content and Max for his superior editing skills!
Really enjoying this Typhoon series. I always wanted a Syclone, I remember in 1991 I was 17 and my Dad and I went to the GMC dealer to look at the Syclone, I remember sitting in one and wanting one so badly. Obviously couldn't afford one, and bought a 91 GMC Sonoma which was a POS. Syclone or Typhoon are still on my dream car list. I was fortunate enough to have owned from new a 2006 Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution MR that I cherished from new till a few years ago. Had to sell the car long story. Cars are not just cars to some people. People that know, know and feel my pain. Looking forward to see what is going on with this Typhoon. Since the engine was new, and it sat for a while, probably was never properly broken in and something may have not been happy sitting around so long. Whatever it is, I know LGC will be on it and do this very rare and special SUV the best possible repair.
Looks like permatex in the pickup screen, but I also noticed the flex plate jumping around like a flamenco dancer, I will be waiting to see what you find next time.
Two things you didn't do right first put mineral oil on ALL your o rings or they will eventually leak again and Secondly that cool blue rubber you found in your oil pickups. It's most likely from valve covers or valley cover aka intake. Parts that the screen didn't stop wiped out the back passenger cylinder crank journal has spun a bearing. Reason is not 100% of oil goes through filter 20% always bypasses and is how this problem became common in bothe the 2.8l and 4.3 liter. Unbolt the oil filter housing and replace with a different oil system that will filter 100% of oil flow...
You should reach out to Angelo on the Stay Tuned channel. They built a Typhoon clone in a pickup with the idea of racing a real typhoon. They're in PA.
It doesn’t legally void a warranty to remove a sticker unless the sticker is functional in the since of a fastener or cooling etc… pls report to the ftc because those stickers are essentially illegal for the manufacturer to put on as they discourage competition in the repair and replacement market per the Magnusson act.
I heard rod knock just after you filled up on E85. If you go back and watch you can hear it when you initially got on the throttle. Edit: not money, but subbed.
My typhoon did exact same thing when I bought it it ,I changed the oil to factory oil ,in 30 min it wiped the bearings out ,I assumed someone had thick oil in it before me for a long period of time
I'm tellin that flex plate was all over the place. I've heard it several times in the past. Bought so many nice cars cheap letting them think the engine was bad when it was a cracked flex plate.
Max, I see you’ve been stepping up your editing game! It’s not going unnoticed; this felt like arguably the most put together video yet. Alex and Max make the best content duo!
Great video. Sorry about the mystery noise...that was a re-man engine...so wouldn't expect too much carnage. Hope you can salvage it. Hopefully just a little bearing issue that you can address from below...not wrist pins or something else more badder. Good luck.
That is the start of a rod knock, like the grand national, if you catch it now, you can swap out the bearings and save it. Ive heard tons of engines like this being a mechanic for 20+ years. I never like running the cleaner you put in oil because it usually had bad reactions with the babbitt bearings.
First thing I'd buy when I was younger and had the energy to take on those type projects was an engine tear down kit. They are a cheap insurance policy. Pop the heads, oil pan and timing cover. Get a good look at everything. Where I am at any amount of sitting and guaranteed the valve stem seals would need replacing. Also good to take a look in the oil pan and clean up the oil pump pickup. No way would I put in any high performance parts without having given the engine a good inspection. I am going to bet most likely you got another bearing issue. With GM V-6's and V-8's that and puking rods wasn't uncommon. Mostly I'd play with old Mopars. Not uncommon to find nylon pieces in the oil pickup from the timing gears. Bad valve stem seals, bad timing chains and bearing failures from plugged oil pickups. Transmission wise lots of loose reverse bands or the reverse band would drop the metal adjustment bar out all together. Back then if you knew where to buy parts they were extremely inexpensive to work on. Transmission rebuild kits with a rebuilt torque converter were about 150 dollars. 904's and 727's are a breeze to rebuild.
Oil pump pickup is full of trash, gasket material or blue silicone sealer from some poor assembly job, or an oil pick-up issue. Sounds like main bearings from what I hear. I had a small block that had that type of rattle, upon disassembly I found it was intermittently starving for oil taking out the bottom end. A rod knock is more rhythmic, and consistently there when warmed up. Mains will often not make noise until revved and the crankshaft starts jumping around creating a fast "all over the place noise". Of course I am sure you will replace all the rod and main bearings, I bet the crank will be ok with just a little polish. New oil pump with a properly adjusted pick-up tube tacked on and clean out all the oil passages. Who knows you may find the wrong size bearings, or a oil passages plug in the wrong hole, or even missing from the right hole. It did seem to have a lot of oil pressure to the top end at idle from what I saw. Seemed kinda strange. Nothing like 2 cents from the peanut gallery of the internet!🤣 By the way your taste in vehicles is right up my alley, and your videos are always the best!✌
Disconnect one spark plug at a time and when you hear the knock go away you found the bad rod if it doesn’t change the knock then you might look somewhere else
Check that the flex plate does not have a crack around the flex plate bolts to the crank. Common for 700r4 and 3rd gen fbodies to crack the flex plate concentrically around the bolts. Edit: you can diagnose by prying near the teeth of the flex plate and looking/listening for the same sound and the inner flex plate not moving.
That Typhoon is going to be an amazing example. I wish I had the money to fire the parts cannon at my 2007 Vectra CDTI 150. I only recently bought it, £200 with MOT. I didn’t want it but needed a car as quickly and cheaply as possible. It has actually made me like FWD Vauxhalls.
That flex plate was moving a TON under throttle. GM, for a whlie, had issues with cracked flexplates. I'm wondering if you might get "lucky" enough for that to be it. Bummed to see this, but these engines are easy to work on, being basically just a 350 with two less cylinders. No forbidden glitter in the oil tells me that either ALL the bearings are fine, or it's just started, and you can spin in the bearings withough pulling anything. Look forward to what you find!
I hate to say it but you probably have rod bearings or main bearings going bad. But the good news is, you are one of my favorite UA-cam car mechanics! You are best! You can do it, you can fix it!
Man sorry to hear the sudden problem that was discovered but as a silver lining and like you said, atleast you discovered it now and not grenaded the engine on the dyno. Hope the fix isnt that expensive. Look forward to the next video. Good luck.
For anyone curious, checking resistance is not technically the correct way to check wiring. It will be right a lot of the time, but not always. If a wire was pinched and has one strand of wire, the resistance would be low, but that doesnt mean the wire could flow current. The correct way to test wires is to isolate the wire (ensuring it isnt connected to a module) and load test the wire. This will tell you if the wire can carry amperage.
The very first time you got it running good (last video?), I was thinking that engine sounded bad! Definitely thought it was a rod knock, and now that it's worse, it most definitely is! I am an ASE certified technician of 39 years, and from my experience, it's definitely bad!
Looks like the flex plate was moving a bit when the torque converter was bolted and also unbolted. A second watch of that part looks like it’s vibrating when you rev it.
I think you need a 3D printer That way you can make you missing caps and make then look old for yourself It might be worth it. Especially when you can’t find or get the part. Worth looking into pal. Great video keep up the amazing work. Best part of my Saturday seeing your video
Damn sideburns... I had no luck with mine, but it always started and ran great, when it wasn't trying to catch itself on fire. I didn't realize you were obsessed with decals, it's what I do. Side note, I bought the ceramic coat 3 pack last year, I use it on my shower doors so there is less cleaning and scaling. I have well water and its helped out so much from all the staining that happens.
Alex - hope I am wrong but when you added oil to the engine with the intake manifold off - there was dirt in the valley that was washed into the engine - go back and look
Whatever the issue is I am sure you won't have any problem fixing it. In fact these issues make your content that much more entertaining. I like the fact this isn’t some creampuff that you had to put barely any work into. It makes for great content.
I agree with you. Drop the oil pan see what’s going on with crank shaft and bearings. At that point on a lift be easy to install new bearings and polish crank
Love the Typhoon yeah, on that A. C clutch, bearing that you were trying to replace you have to use a corresponding support under the pulley, on the bearing housing when you're using the press. That bearing housing that the race slides into is recessed from the pulley edge inside that opening, that's where the deflection was coming from. Ya I was the guy saying, support the housing, support the housing, I was trying to tap your shoulder but even google couldn't help! Love the press. She's worth the engine work! Let's go!
Put new conrod bearings and crankshaft bearings in asap...... And also a new oilpump. Its a 99,999% chance of engine termination if you dont.... All bottomend bearings and new oilpump👍👍👍 You allready put alot in it. You better start caring about the most crucial part aswell.
This build is helping me finish my 91 tpi corvette build. I want to only run e85, but I was told it will eat the factory lines? I just contacted turbo tweak for a custom chip and adapter! I hope this is the start of a modern 355 TPI build💪🏽 fingers crossed its possible all your set up is so close to the 91 C4 corvette ECU and chip.
My 07 Mazda6 is doing the exact same thing with knocking. I've asked multiple friends that work on cars for a living to come over and give me their take on what is going on and, all of them were stumped also. It only starts knocking when it gets to the same rpm in park like yours. I'll get it on the road and I won't hear the knock until the rpms are higher. It doesn't sound like it's coming from the top, it's actually sounds like it's coming from the bottom. Ofcourse, I took it to a shop and the person took 2 seconds to say it needed a knew engine. I don't think thats what it needs, especially since it only has about 70,000 miles on it, and I've taken very good care of it since I bought it brand new from the dealership.
Blow-out Black Friday Ceramic Coating Kit Deal! avl.kg/legitbf24eb Limited-Time deal from Avalon King!
You'll get her sorted man. Fingers crossed its something cheap and simple!
rod knoc bro...... sorry
Check the flex plate! That thing was all over the place!
Bad lifters ?
Hello there ! Can you say why you disabled the dislikes? (I liked the video(s) and love the channel)
Alex, I'm the guy that suggested the Pre-Luber on your GN. The top of the Rod Bearings are shot, which you know by now. In-Frame the Rod Bearings and the Mains while you are there. That Knock sensor got the bearings. Back in the day, we would lessen the torque on the Knock Senor to lessen the timing pull. Too tight and it will pick up every noise.
Also, measure the rod journal. You may need to add .001 or .002 Rod bearings. Some of these 4.3's were soft. BTW, Rods show up between 2000-2500 rpms. You can also check main bearing health with a good oil gage. Place the vehicle in 2nd gear and run it about 40mph and let off the gas. The crank will lift and the oil pressure will rise. Extreme rises=main brg issue.
Good luck NC loves your show.
Ive said it before, but will say it again for any new subscribers- what makes Alex great is sharing knowledge
My Ty had the same noise just off idle. Took a while to track down, but the flex plate had a crack along one of the mounting pads.
@chrismiller2533 looked the the flexplate was flexing a bit too much after he unbolted the converter.
Great point, when I originally got my Syclone, the flexplate also had a crack in the same area on the original. I'm not super knowledgeable, so I have no idea how this happened. I pulled it after my first re-build on the stock 700R4. What a pain in the ass it was to do that on the cold garage floor. Luckily shes getting a 4L80E right now, tired of re-building 700's hahaha.
Has anybody else noticed the insanely madd diagnostic skills Alex has. Holy moly, the man is a savage.
Another Great Vid as usual❤
Alex flex plate appeared to me moving all over the place when you revved it up even after you disconnected the TC
Looks like the Flex Plate is bent and wobbling when you are revving the engine and filming it at 38:35, go back and watch that, maybe check the runout on it. Or it could just be out of balance. I would replace it and the torque converter.
@@pcguru12 I think the same.
this
@@pcguru12 flex plate definitely looks and sounds cracked. All he needed was something to whack it with when it was pulled away from the converter. Hell even attached to the converter that flex plate makes a very distinctive sound when its cracked.
@@pcguru12 also I've always carried a piece of fuel or waterhose with me. Touch that pan and listen like a Dr with a stethoscope lol you'll know right off if its internal or external
Flex plate at 38:21 looks wobbly. if you slow down the video you can see its wavy spinning.
Yeah, from that I think he was on the mark with having crank walk.
Bowl of cereal - check. Cup of coffee - check. LSC video where Alex fights with mechanical issues that make me feel way better about my own - check check check.
Guys an absolute weapon
Lmfao ... o man , I'm so with ya on the project part 😅
It’s literally my Saturday morning routine
I treated myself to eggs, hash browns and rye toast with my coffee lol
I had a cyclone thay did the same thing. It ended up being a bad wrist pin and bearing on #3. I was puzzled by the knock only being between a particular RPM range. But an old timer that fixed it said some well balanced rotating assemblies in nicer high HP and boosted vehicles might only be effected at a certain position of the pistons stroke since its alreadyso well balanced. He said had I let it get worse eventually the noise would've been noticeable across a wider RPM range.
My Cyclone was pretty abused before I got it. So I decided to pull mine apart, have it decked, had the crank maganafluxed and for cracks and polished and put new pistons and rods in it.
It ran perfectly until I sold it.
Did you check the flex plate. 4.3s like to Crack towards the center and I coulda swore it looked a little wobbly when you reved it
I had similar problem with 1998 GMC savanna van 4.3. It was bend flex plate broken on one side. Looks like your is very off balance it goes left and right as it moves it may grind on something. Blue thing that you are referring is upper oil pan gasket piece. Those gasket that wraps around crank and they separate with time.Anyway you should change oil pan gasket after and it is good opportunity to peel inside bearings.
Retired Automotive Machinist edumated guass. it is either an egg shaped rod/bearing(worn out) that has not spun the bearing yet, piston slap usually found in ultra high mile cars, a cracked piston skirt. Could also be worn thrust bearings as you mentioned however that is unusual in lower mileage engines. regardless it is rotational and internal. The engine is getting work. whether totally inframe or not we shall see. Good luck I will be watching
Whoever hammered wheel weights on the outside lip of them wheels should be slapped.
45 minutes to 1 hour, every Saturday morning. Alex, you are the best. No corners cut, no bs filler, no sponsored junk. Easily my favorite car channel
As a fella who's built thousands of Subarus engines for very similar noises, you're looking at a knock, the 2500-3k rpm range is a pretty common area to hear rod knock especially when it's unloaded. You're in for a rebuild for sure. Good luck, as a local guy I appreciate seeing the local places I use as well being supported.
Watching the engine running with the torque converter unbolted, the flex plate wobbles alot !! It's shaking around when you rev it up.. I believe that is a broken Flex plate... 38:35ish
I saw the same thing! There was a TON of wobbling. I'm not sure if that's normal but didn't look like it!
I saw that too and thought it was weird he didn’t say anything 🤷♂️
Possible cracked flex plate. I’ve had this happen on a Rover v8. Same symptoms, granted the oil pickup is alarming
could be. that thing looked very wobbly on video.
39:38 does anyone else feel bad that they are excited that he’s digging into the engine because it’s going to be good content? But you know he was real excited to dyno it.
God forbid he rebuild the engine with all sort of high end goodies and make this thing a monster😮
I'm sure someone already commented this, but you were pushing the bearing the wrong way in the AC clutch. :-( The little punch marks around the bearing in the pulley are done as a safety to retain the bearing, The bearing pushes out from the back towards the front and lays them over as it comes out. I was yelling at the TV when you started pushing on at the wrong way, lol.
Cam shafts that drive a distributor and or oil pump off a gear can develop end float that sounds like rod knock. It's basically the cam hammering against the retainer or other obstruction.
Blue RTV clogged the oil pump pick up screen. Also that flex plate is probably cracked. Hopefully some a set main bearings brings it back.🤞
This LSC
This LSC
Just hearing that noise only, I'd dig around a bit before pulling the engine, but since you saw all that crap on the oil pickup, I would personally just pull it.
Thats probably a mass reman motor from the 90s that at the time literally had new parts on a bench next to a stand that got reassembled with absolutely no tear down inspection or tolerance checks as it was reassembled.
I went through this in the early 2000's with an Iroc-Z. I found a reman that was still wrapped and sitting on a pallet, got it fairly cheap and swapped it over a weekend. Quick inspection showed it was clean and fresh, didn't even run 45 minutes before it knocked like crazy. I was out all of my money and had to let it sit for almost a year, found ANOTHER fresh reman, that one made it about 500 miles.
I remember walking into the builders shop holding a rag with debris in the oil for the 2nd time and saying help me please. He told me both times when he sourced these remans for me that I was playing with fire, but if I insisted on gambling, he'd take my money knowing I'd be back a couple times. His words were "New parts doesn't cover up a bad build".
I gave up and towed the car to him. He said he was fine with storing the car in his shop until I had the money to pay him to rebuild one of the 2 bad remans. I told him it would be around 12 months before I had that kind of money, he said it's fine and considered the reman profits a storage fee. Unbeknownst to me, he salvaged what he could from both remans for other customers and used the money to rebuild a shortblock. 2 months after I towed the car and both engines to him he called and said come pick up your car and bring $500 with you. I didn't ask questions, I just assumed the dude was pissed he had my car taking up space. I borrowed money from family, rented a trailer and showed up the next day. Walked in to the shop and he handed me keys, told me what he did, gave me a bunch of receipts and said go do a burn out, shes like new. Put 80k miles on it over 3 years before I sold it.
I wish you where able to come out with a video everyday (I know it’s not realistic) you are the reason I’m attending tech school and have completely changed my confidence while working on cars. Also the reason i desperately want an e55 😅 keep up the fantastic work ❤
You should look into finding the brackets for upper intercooler. There are two brackets that bolt to the bottom of it to give it some rigidity. Otherwise, even under stock boost levels, it can blow off the coupler between the intercooler and the throttle body
Ive ziptied the jaws on a puller together to keep them in place while trying to get stuff off. It helps. But ive also found sometimes using a puller has warped then pulley.
That is rod or rods knocking from excessive bearing clearance from wear. It will eventually make the noise at idle as it gets worse.
The Heartbeat Of America. Yes that's what we called that rod knock at the Chevy dealership service department in the late 80s early 90s !!
Test your NGK coil. Based off my experience...Ive had issues with the new NGK ignition coil. Once it warmed up the engine wouldn't stay running and would misfire which sounded like it was knocking. Not sure why but the original one was installed and fixed my issue.
Man not taking the oil pan off this episode is crazy lol
I HAVENT READ THE COMMENTS MAYBE SOMEONE ALREADY COMMENTED THIS BUT I HAD A SIMILAR ISSUE AND IT WAS A CRACKED FLEXPLATE, LITTLE HAIRLINE CRACKS AROUND THE MAIN HUB WHERE IT GETS BOLTED FROM. WORTH CHECKING.
You can see weird flex when he disconnects the stall.
And it also sounded like a rod knock, i was getting ready to do a full rebuild of engine and all it needed was a new flexplate.
Could be, til he saw the debris in oil pan
That copperish color is rod bearing material.
The knock all started with the E85, but i have a feeling the blue silicone in the pickup tube isnt helping things either
Check the flexplate again. I had a 1990 Blazer that the flexplate had split just outside of the bolt holes. It has a ring that goes on before the flexplate bolts go in. I couldn't see the split all the way around until I took the bolts out and that ring off. But you can hold the crank in place and move the flexplate with a screwdriver. It might move just a little but sounds exactly like a rod knock. Hope this helps.
38:42 that sucker is wobbling hard when it gets some RPMs - I came straight here after watching to see if anyone else noticed
I heard the knock when you first put fuel in it under acceleration. Gotta take the bottom pan off for sure. Hope it's not bearings or crank walk. As always I guess we'll find out. Hope my dad see these comments too as he watches these as well. Old school GM tech.
You set initial timing with a bad knock sensor so it was automatically retarding the timing. Now new sensor and not compensating so timing may be off. Set your base timing again now the sensor has been replaced.
That makes prefect sense If he definitely wanted to narrow it down to timing, he could put the old sensor back in and see if the noise goes away
@ or just throw the timing light on and check.
I hate the bad luck for you but i like that there is more Typhoon videos to come
One of the hardest working UA-camrs. Love it.
I'm 50yrs old as of this Christmas eve., I'll never forget the Motor Trend magazine cover of the Cyclone beating the Ferrari F-40 in the 1/4 mile....blew my mind as a young man....✌️
Wasn't it Car & Driver magazine ? And wasn't it the Ferrari 348?
Crazy memories coming back with this project, Alex! I was fifteen, and my buddy got one of these, brand new, for his 16th bday. I mean, I was aware it was a hot ride (not stolen,) but ridiculous g with him got so much attention it was unreal. Today, I can't get past the thought "what sort of parent buys a typhoon for his kids 16th?" North shore parents, what can I say?
The end, all stuff is around the pickup, and some of that is bearing whether rod, cam or main i don't know but it's blocking the pickup causing starvation off idle, time to pull engine and rebuild. Maybe get a more aggressive cam, and some forged goodies.
Love the intro with the 80s feel
rod knock. get to rpm where it makes noise and disconnect plug wire 1 at a time noise will go away when you reach the bad cylinder
Your videos are the equivalent of my Saturday morning cartoons. Out of all of the YT’ers that I watch, yours are the ones I religiously watch when they drop. I really digging the Syclone and I can’t wait to see some progress on the Lightning this winter, but I get how it gets pushed back. I make content on many different vehicles as well, and my ’47 Plymouth always seems to be the last one I get around to working on and filming. My Focus ST seems to steal the most of my time, with my ‘04 F250 Harley Davidson edition coming in a close second. Then mix in all of the flips and detailing videos, and time just gets away from me. Do you think perhaps you could soon do a vehicle update video? I haven’t seen the GTR or the McLaren in a while as well as some others. Thank you for putting out great content and Max for his superior editing skills!
Really enjoying this Typhoon series. I always wanted a Syclone, I remember in 1991 I was 17 and my Dad and I went to the GMC dealer to look at the Syclone, I remember sitting in one and wanting one so badly. Obviously couldn't afford one, and bought a 91 GMC Sonoma which was a POS. Syclone or Typhoon are still on my dream car list. I was fortunate enough to have owned from new a 2006 Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution MR that I cherished from new till a few years ago. Had to sell the car long story. Cars are not just cars to some people. People that know, know and feel my pain. Looking forward to see what is going on with this Typhoon. Since the engine was new, and it sat for a while, probably was never properly broken in and something may have not been happy sitting around so long. Whatever it is, I know LGC will be on it and do this very rare and special SUV the best possible repair.
Looks like permatex in the pickup screen, but I also noticed the flex plate jumping around like a flamenco dancer, I will be waiting to see what you find next time.
Two things you didn't do right first put mineral oil on ALL your o rings or they will eventually leak again and Secondly that cool blue rubber you found in your oil pickups. It's most likely from valve covers or valley cover aka intake. Parts that the screen didn't stop wiped out the back passenger cylinder crank journal has spun a bearing. Reason is not 100% of oil goes through filter 20% always bypasses and is how this problem became common in bothe the 2.8l and 4.3 liter. Unbolt the oil filter housing and replace with a different oil system that will filter 100% of oil flow...
You should reach out to Angelo on the Stay Tuned channel. They built a Typhoon clone in a pickup with the idea of racing a real typhoon. They're in PA.
This!
They built a Syclone clone, not the same thing, and they already have a friend with a fast Syclone to race against.
Terrible idea. Alex actually fixes engines. Those guys just blow them up all the time.
I say its a cracked flexplate. U can see it rattle at rpm. Hows oil pressure? Oil pressure is also a pretty good indication of a bearing going south
It doesn’t legally void a warranty to remove a sticker unless the sticker is functional in the since of a fastener or cooling etc… pls report to the ftc because those stickers are essentially illegal for the manufacturer to put on as they discourage competition in the repair and replacement market per the Magnusson act.
I heard rod knock just after you filled up on E85. If you go back and watch you can hear it when you initially got on the throttle.
Edit: not money, but subbed.
My typhoon did exact same thing when I bought it it ,I changed the oil to factory oil ,in 30 min it wiped the bearings out ,I assumed someone had thick oil in it before me for a long period of time
I'm tellin that flex plate was all over the place. I've heard it several times in the past. Bought so many nice cars cheap letting them think the engine was bad when it was a cracked flex plate.
You could see how the flywheel moved forward and backwards when you rev it up
Had to go back but agree
Looks to be vibrating. Flexplate tho.
This is my new favorite channel. I remember most of your cars from my childhood. I'm also a mechanic and like to learn.
Max, I see you’ve been stepping up your editing game! It’s not going unnoticed; this felt like arguably the most put together video yet. Alex and Max make the best content duo!
Great video. Sorry about the mystery noise...that was a re-man engine...so wouldn't expect too much carnage. Hope you can salvage it. Hopefully just a little bearing issue that you can address from below...not wrist pins or something else more badder. Good luck.
Flywheels were very well known to crack and sound about same.
That is the start of a rod knock, like the grand national, if you catch it now, you can swap out the bearings and save it. Ive heard tons of engines like this being a mechanic for 20+ years. I never like running the cleaner you put in oil because it usually had bad reactions with the babbitt bearings.
What would you do with this engine?
Let's go I've been waiting
Oh no. Just started the video and this is the comment I see. 😮
First thing I'd buy when I was younger and had the energy to take on those type projects was an engine tear down kit.
They are a cheap insurance policy. Pop the heads, oil pan and timing cover. Get a good look at everything. Where I am at any amount of sitting and guaranteed the valve stem seals would need replacing. Also good to take a look in the oil pan and clean up the oil pump pickup. No way would I put in any high performance parts without having given the engine a good inspection.
I am going to bet most likely you got another bearing issue. With GM V-6's and V-8's that and puking rods wasn't uncommon.
Mostly I'd play with old Mopars. Not uncommon to find nylon pieces in the oil pickup from the timing gears. Bad valve stem seals, bad timing chains and bearing failures from plugged oil pickups. Transmission wise lots of loose reverse bands or the reverse band would drop the metal adjustment bar out all together. Back then if you knew where to buy parts they were extremely inexpensive to work on. Transmission rebuild kits with a rebuilt torque converter were about 150 dollars. 904's and 727's are a breeze to rebuild.
@@LegitStreetCars id pull the flex plate and inspect it visually
In car bearing replacement + pump, new flex plate, new rms, trans rebuild/hardening plus new converter, because it’s not my time and money ;).
Oil pump pickup is full of trash, gasket material or blue silicone sealer from some poor assembly job, or an oil pick-up issue. Sounds like main bearings from what I hear. I had a small block that had that type of rattle, upon disassembly I found it was intermittently starving for oil taking out the bottom end. A rod knock is more rhythmic, and consistently there when warmed up. Mains will often not make noise until revved and the crankshaft starts jumping around creating a fast "all over the place noise".
Of course I am sure you will replace all the rod and main bearings, I bet the crank will be ok with just a little polish. New oil pump with a properly adjusted pick-up tube tacked on and clean out all the oil passages. Who knows you may find the wrong size bearings, or a oil passages plug in the wrong hole, or even missing from the right hole. It did seem to have a lot of oil pressure to the top end at idle from what I saw. Seemed kinda strange.
Nothing like 2 cents from the peanut gallery of the internet!🤣
By the way your taste in vehicles is right up my alley, and your videos are always the best!✌
Wrist pin noise, or piston slap remove one plug wire at a time to locate offender. Love the phoon.
I also love poon 😅
Disconnect one spark plug at a time and when you hear the knock go away you found the bad rod if it doesn’t change the knock then you might look somewhere else
Check that the flex plate does not have a crack around the flex plate bolts to the crank. Common for 700r4 and 3rd gen fbodies to crack the flex plate concentrically around the bolts.
Edit: you can diagnose by prying near the teeth of the flex plate and looking/listening for the same sound and the inner flex plate not moving.
That Typhoon is going to be an amazing example.
I wish I had the money to fire the parts cannon at my 2007 Vectra CDTI 150. I only recently bought it, £200 with MOT. I didn’t want it but needed a car as quickly and cheaply as possible.
It has actually made me like FWD Vauxhalls.
That flex plate was moving a TON under throttle. GM, for a whlie, had issues with cracked flexplates. I'm wondering if you might get "lucky" enough for that to be it. Bummed to see this, but these engines are easy to work on, being basically just a 350 with two less cylinders. No forbidden glitter in the oil tells me that either ALL the bearings are fine, or it's just started, and you can spin in the bearings withough pulling anything. Look forward to what you find!
The flex plate was definitely wobbling all over. Could be mildly cracked...
Thanks for a nice video buddy sorry about the lower end giving up on you !!
I hate to say it but you probably have rod bearings or main bearings going bad. But the good news is, you are one of my favorite UA-cam car mechanics! You are best! You can do it, you can fix it!
Man sorry to hear the sudden problem that was discovered but as a silver lining and like you said, atleast you discovered it now and not grenaded the engine on the dyno. Hope the fix isnt that expensive. Look forward to the next video. Good luck.
Had a 97 LT1 that had a broken flexplate. Did the same thing.
About 10 years ago I started using Teflon paste vs tape. Super easy to use and you can just wipe off the excess. It seals perfect every time.
I haven't used Teflon tape in years. Good call.
For anyone curious, checking resistance is not technically the correct way to check wiring. It will be right a lot of the time, but not always. If a wire was pinched and has one strand of wire, the resistance would be low, but that doesnt mean the wire could flow current. The correct way to test wires is to isolate the wire (ensuring it isnt connected to a module) and load test the wire. This will tell you if the wire can carry amperage.
The very first time you got it running good (last video?), I was thinking that engine sounded bad! Definitely thought it was a rod knock, and now that it's worse, it most definitely is! I am an ASE certified technician of 39 years, and from my experience, it's definitely bad!
That rpm range is actually close to the same range kia/hyundai knock early on.
Tons of test we had to do
Still by far my favorite UA-cam channel! Sorry for the bad Luck luck but at the end of the day you still have a Typhoon!!!!! It can’t be all bad.
Looks like the flex plate was moving a bit when the torque converter was bolted and also unbolted. A second watch of that part looks like it’s vibrating when you rev it.
To me, at least it sounded like metal flexing and not a knock of some kind, so I second this.
Just purchased the AE wideband. 30-0334 can't wait to install. Custom printed vent gauge and whole new wiring kit setup. 🎉
I think you need a 3D printer
That way you can make you missing caps and make then look old for yourself
It might be worth it. Especially when you can’t find or get the part.
Worth looking into pal.
Great video keep up the amazing work. Best part of my Saturday seeing your video
Damn sideburns... I had no luck with mine, but it always started and ran great, when it wasn't trying to catch itself on fire. I didn't realize you were obsessed with decals, it's what I do. Side note, I bought the ceramic coat 3 pack last year, I use it on my shower doors so there is less cleaning and scaling. I have well water and its helped out so much from all the staining that happens.
@38:35 the flex plate is vibrating
I know you love this truck, man. Give it. a wire brush cleaning and give it some good undercoat spray.❤
This channel is slowly becoming the place for all the cool obsolete GM cars and Im all for it.
Alex - hope I am wrong but when you added oil to the engine with the intake manifold off - there was dirt in the valley that was washed into the engine - go back and look
Man did all this work just to have to take the block apart. Can’t say I’m not excited. Whatever you gotta do it’ll be worth it!
38:38 That wobble on the flexplate 🤮.
Yup
That sucks, Alex. Hope it turns out to be something simple.
Alex is honestly smart for cranking up the uploads at the year end. When views are the highest and people have the most time on their hands 🎉 go LSC!!
You can hear it knocking in the video while driving.
I agree. In the moment I didn't hear it but when I watched the footage later I could
Whatever the issue is I am sure you won't have any problem fixing it. In fact these issues make your content that much more entertaining. I like the fact this isn’t some creampuff that you had to put barely any work into. It makes for great content.
I thought I saw the flex plate wobble? But it could be a video artifact
Alex the way you diagnose issues in vehicles is so thorough, you really are an amazing mechanic.....such a joy to watch!
Dude, please make a t-shirt with that 80's trapper keeper opening image. That would be sick!
100% rod knock, drop the pan, Polish the crank by hand install new bearings, good to go.. done it a few times with almost perfect success
I agree with you. Drop the oil pan see what’s going on with crank shaft and bearings. At that point on a lift be easy to install new bearings and polish crank
The problem is new, after the knock sensor so it might be timing or it does kinda sound like piston slap/wrist pin ish.
Love the Typhoon yeah, on that A. C clutch, bearing that you were trying to replace you have to use a corresponding support under the pulley, on the bearing housing when you're using the press. That bearing housing that the race slides into is recessed from the pulley edge inside that opening, that's where the deflection was coming from. Ya I was the guy saying, support the housing, support the housing, I was trying to tap your shoulder but even google couldn't help! Love the press. She's worth the engine work! Let's go!
« I have a Dyno appointement » is an Alex version of the impending doom music in horror movies.
I'm an HVAC engineer and I'm pretty shocked at how educated Alex is in the AC department. Did you used to be AC engineer in a previous life?
Oh man fingers crossed for you always love the videos no matter the content love the transparency nothings perfect it's nice to see the steps cheers!
Put new conrod bearings and crankshaft bearings in asap...... And also a new oilpump.
Its a 99,999% chance of engine termination if you dont....
All bottomend bearings and new oilpump👍👍👍
You allready put alot in it. You better start caring about the most crucial part aswell.
This build is helping me finish my 91 tpi corvette build. I want to only run e85, but I was told it will eat the factory lines? I just contacted turbo tweak for a custom chip and adapter! I hope this is the start of a modern 355 TPI build💪🏽 fingers crossed its possible all your set up is so close to the 91 C4 corvette ECU and chip.
Shouldn't have removed the void sticker. 60% of the time, causes rod knock every time.
Dang it!.
think you're right .😭
My 07 Mazda6 is doing the exact same thing with knocking. I've asked multiple friends that work on cars for a living to come over and give me their take on what is going on and, all of them were stumped also.
It only starts knocking when it gets to the same rpm in park like yours. I'll get it on the road and I won't hear the knock until the rpms are higher.
It doesn't sound like it's coming from the top, it's actually sounds like it's coming from the bottom.
Ofcourse, I took it to a shop and the person took 2 seconds to say it needed a knew engine.
I don't think thats what it needs, especially since it only has about 70,000 miles on it, and I've taken very good care of it since I bought it brand new from the dealership.