Good video, thanks. I intend to lap the friction cones on my windlass (no grease... scored) rather than buying new ones. Both are made from the same material so lapping them back in should produce a much more matched surface than simply doing it on the lathe. Can you tell me why you discard the original cone? It seems like it'd be exactly what you want after you lap it. Do you lose so much material it ends up "too far into" the mating surface?
No loctite? Maybe stress that all grinding paste should be removed thoroughly prior to reassembly. It would make your bearings lovely wouldn't it? Fresh swarf makes more fresh swarf. FROM YOUR COGS
fire1on2off, there's a procedure for lapping the cones on sd50 that doesn't involve total diamantlement, i.e. can be done in the boat without separating the motor. I'll be doing my first one in the next few days and will let you know how it goes.
Also as a marine engineer, in an industry that is highly specialist, why tell everyone how to rebuild their drives? It makes have a go heros make my job harder
this is not how to lap in your cone. lapping requires the two parts that will be meshing together, by lapping in a worn cone then applying a new cone it simply defeats the whole point.. the 2 parts that are ground together to make two exact meeting surfaces are to stay together , applying a new cone to a lapped surface of another cone that has material worn off it will make the new cone surface different to the lapped cone. this is poor engineering. I apologise if my explanation is not clear but this is not how to fix a slipping cone. If a cone is worn past being lapped and reused you should replace all parts that work with the worn part. The best example of what is going on here is replacing a new bearing and applying it to an old worn seat . yes you may get away with it but this is not the right way to fix your drive .
no not true, you just need to take the glazing off the cups for the new cone.. lapping with the new cone isnt a good idea, can damage the surface of the new one. its not a valve, this is how its done
My neck hurts.
Awesome INFO looks so easy
Good video, thanks. I intend to lap the friction cones on my windlass (no grease... scored) rather than buying new ones. Both are made from the same material so lapping them back in should produce a much more matched surface than simply doing it on the lathe. Can you tell me why you discard the original cone? It seems like it'd be exactly what you want after you lap it. Do you lose so much material it ends up "too far into" the mating surface?
Do you have a video on replacing the lower unit driveshafts on a D6 Duoprop? Or a video on overhaul of the lower unit?
No loctite? Maybe stress that all grinding paste should be removed thoroughly prior to reassembly. It would make your bearings lovely wouldn't it? Fresh swarf makes more fresh swarf. FROM YOUR COGS
Getting ready to do this to a Yanmar Saildrive SD50. I would guess it is very similar??
fire1on2off,
there's a procedure for lapping the cones on sd50 that doesn't involve total diamantlement, i.e. can be done in the boat without separating the motor. I'll be doing my first one in the next few days and will let you know how it goes.
Also as a marine engineer, in an industry that is highly specialist, why tell everyone how to rebuild their drives? It makes have a go heros make my job harder
Do NOT reuse the plasic shim! They will relax and you miss the bearingbox torque. The plastic shim are replaced by steel shim.
The volvo penta manual says to reuse the shims.
this is not how to lap in your cone. lapping requires the two parts that will be meshing together, by lapping in a worn cone then applying a new cone it simply defeats the whole point.. the 2 parts that are ground together to make two exact meeting surfaces are to stay together , applying a new cone to a lapped surface of another cone that has material worn off it will make the new cone surface different to the lapped cone. this is poor engineering. I apologise if my explanation is not clear but this is not how to fix a slipping cone. If a cone is worn past being lapped and reused you should replace all parts that work with the worn part. The best example of what is going on here is replacing a new bearing and applying it to an old worn seat . yes you may get away with it but this is not the right way to fix your drive .
no not true, you just need to take the glazing off the cups for the new cone.. lapping with the new cone isnt a good idea, can damage the surface of the new one. its not a valve, this is how its done