What a absolute bloody legend. You couldn't make videos any more clear and understandable. And there's no better feeling than working on your car and getting all your servicing done on the weekend. I can now do it all with your videos Nick. Cheers
I always had difficulty in getting the same amount of coolant into the system and someone suggested that I leave the radiator cap on whilst the system was draining. This was so good it even emptied the expansion tank which saved removing it. This my third Isuzu being a MUX which I will be maintaining it using your fantastic advice for which I thank you!
good vid but wrong coolant for Isuzu 3 lt motor here in Australia Nick. You need a coolant as per specs from Isuzu Ute ie in Penrite it is their OAT coolant that is blue and is borate and silicate free and GM6277M standard compliant. The heater core needs to be drained out too and there is a engine block coolant drain plug too I believe. If you check Super Cheap Auto, put in vehicle ie your MUX, it says your Penrite is NOT suitable.
Hi Nick, Great videos mate I really enjoy seeing all your videos and seeing you explain and service your car as it should be done even though I'm a mechanic too and do it all day at work lol. I have recently purchased my first 4x4 in a 2015 VW Amarok so I'm keen to get stuck into servicing it and fixing it up. Looking forward to seeing more videos soon mate.
I was given a good tip to get all the coolant out of the system including the expansion bottle is to leave the radiator cap on whilst and open the drain. It will completely empty the system
So I did a full flush back in February with replacing the radiator bottom and top hoses with Isuzu genuine parts and replaced the thermostat and radiator cap too. I accidentally snapped one of the thermostat bolts and had to get brand new ones from Isuzu as I over torqued one of them with my digital torque wrench. I literally went to 26Nm and snapped it. Was a total accident on my account setting the digital to 27Nm accidentally and not under 25Nm (workshop book states). I changed and went to NulonONE Coolant as it meets GM6277M Isuzu guidelines. But have a feeling it has silicates in it for prolong 10year coolant life that Nulon I reckon is partially using in its formula. I reckon it’s a Si-OAT coolant. Isuzu is anal about coolants that have silicates and borates in it. I actually went to Nulon and asked them back and forth emails for a couple weeks in depth about several of their coolants including the red premium. Actually had one of the engineers go back onto their website and edit some discrepancies in their info. It got updated the following week when I went and checked to say it didn’t contain borates although there is still a spelling mistake without a comma used when he updated the site for the red premium coolant. Which was interesting to see. I actually stumped one of their chemical engineers who kept assuming he was right with ingredients involved in their OAT coolant for NulonONE. He kept repeating and calling it a OAT coolant but I reckon due to its 10year long life formula it contains silicates in it, making it practically a SI-OAT Coolant. I have a feeling I was right with my assumption as the website got updated in certain key elements stating what was actually in their red premium long life coolant, but he was stubborn with accepting I was right. Long story short I think I’ll be changing back from NulonONE to a Nulon Red Premium Coolant or even Valvolines Dex-cool. I was going to pick Penrite Blue OEM Coolant but it doesn’t state is has no Borates in it. Isuzu stipulates in the hand book no Silicates or Borates should be contained in the coolant. When I change the coolant type I’ll also be replacing the radiator with genuine Isuzu as I have a feeling it weeps as the reservoir keeps dropping every couple weeks. Nick what size hose is that factory hose that goes from the reservoir to the radiator top? Is it a 8mm or 6mm black hose?. Thinking I might bling it out with a blue new one too while I change to a silicone top and bottom radiator coloured hoses even though I just replaced them with rubber genuine ones. Also I’ve been told by someone that you can empty the block with a drain plug on one of the sides. Just curious to know where this is so I don’t have to take the thermostat out again to flush through the top. Also it’s wise to throw some Nulon R40 Radiator Flush through the system. Do this by getting the vehicle upto operating temperature. Switch it off and unscrew drain plug down the radiator bottom making sure not to get any of the hot coolant on yourself. Once 99%of it has drained unscrew the radiator cap and let some pressure air bubble relief to drain some more out. Run at least a few litres of distilled water through the top of the radiator fill and let it all run through to flush. Refilling the radiator up with 100% distilled water and pour in the Nulon R40. Run the vehicle back upto temp and drain and flush again.
Awesome video mate, super easy to follow and informative. I'll be doing a coolant change next. Have you thought about doing a brake upgrade (braided lines, slotted rotors etc)? Cheers
I have thought about upgrading the brakes and lines. I think it will be modification I do when we get a caravan though. The mu-x still pulls up great with the standard brakes at the moment though.
Really good vids. Thanks. I have seen Dmax's with aftermarket bonnet gas struts to eliminate the front centre hood strut. Would be interested to see how that is done...
Just remember the 14mm block drain located just above the LH engine mount bracket right next to the oil pressure sender unit which is accessible with the LH front wheel removed. Important to drain the engine block and heater circuit to remove all residual old coolant. NOTE: Penrite actually recommend the RED 8yr OEM coolant for all 4JJ1 Dmax, Colorado & MU-X after 2008 although I have used the green with zero issues. (not sure why they changed) Another great vid Nick 👌👍
I thank you muchly for showing the location of the block drain plug. Searched for it and finally by removing FLH wheel and front drive line, I was able to gain good access. Thailand video shows it also, but quite hidden. Thanks..
Some years ago it was always difficult to get the specified cooling water volume out of an engine when some one suggest to me to leave the radiator cap on whilst draining the water, This will even drain the expansion bottle as well leaving the system empty. I personally added the recommended quantity neat coolant and topped it up with water to correct the ration and used any coolant left over put neat into the expansion bottle guaranteeing sufficient coolant if over the correct ration but certainly not short. I have done this for many many years with never a problem of any kind. John
Sir nick,i m from Bhutan, so i would like sayn to u about,can volvoline advance coolant green can use benefit or not in isuzu dmax pickup turbo intercooler bs4,2021 mid model sir?😊.
G'day Nick, love your videos. Can't help but notice that you have gone with an out of spec coolant 😬 Isuzu uses an OAT coolant, and Penrite would quote it as penrite blue. I'm currently about to change mine and wondering why you went with what you have recommended?
Thanks for this video Nick. Quick question. In a cold engine (with thermostat closed), how come you were able to drain all of your coolant? Isn't the engine bay supposed to hold off some of the coolant due to the close thermostat?
That's correct, the thermostat will be closed when cold but it is not completely water tight. There is a little valve in the thermostat that allows coolant past, if you wait long enough it will all drain out eventually. Around 30 minutes seems to be long enough to get it all out.
@@LowRangeNick whats The process for changing coolant from isuzu's coolant to the coolant your using? Ive allways been told you should never mix different brands of coolant 2013 d max
G'day Nick !! thank for that awexome video, really helpful ! advice needed : had the water pump replaced on my son's 2.5 dmax, coolant flushed and replaced. Level is always correct in the expansion vase but it's not up in in the radiator (when radiator cap removed no coolant to be seen !) My son tops it up and it "seems" it overflows when hot via the waste cap (sprays all aver the engine bay) any idea ? cheers !
Check the coolant level in the radiator when the vehicle is cold and top it all the way up to the brim. Then make sure overflow bottle is on Max. If you take it for a long drive and then allow it to cool down and recheck the level If the overflow bottle level is OK and the radiator is low again it could be an issue with the cooling system like a leak, faulty thermostat or radiator cap. Would be best to get it inspected by the workshop that replaced the water pump if something is not correct. Cheers 🙂
@@LowRangeNick bloody magical Mick... Replaced the diff,transfer case oil all because you made it look too easy .. Good call and common sense when you mentioned removing the filler plug first.
Hey there Nick. Could you give a explanation on how the engine drivrn clutch fan works? I was recently asked by a " mr expert " how do you know if the clutch fan is working and how does it operate? I have never really thought about on my 2013 D max. Cheers
Keeping myself busy through all this seq rain with your videos! Would you recommend I change my thermostat simultaneously (160000kms) I don't think it's been changed before..
Hey Casey! Cheers for watching. It definately can't hurt to replace it as preventative maintenance. In saying that it should be completely fine to keep going for another 160k before needing changing.
On my MUX I supplied my own purchased oil but at the 40000 service I allowed the dealer to use their oil.Following the service the engine when cold emitted an unusual knocking noise for the first time. I had the vehicle back to the dealer several time leaving it over night and I believe Isuzu were involved it solving the problem. On one occasion I notice it was full of oil recommended for a Ford 5w30 which they replaced. At the end of the warranty period I serviced the vehicle myself and returned to using Shell Rimula 15W40 which fixed the condition and things are back to normal.
Thanks Nick, awesome video. On an unrelated topic, I have a 2017 dmax with a noisy turbo but only when cold, it's a whinning noise that goes away after about 30 seconds. Should I be worried?? It also has alot more lag in the accelerator compared to my MUX. I was going to get a throttle controller but I'm worried it might mask a bigger problem. Any feedback would be much appreciated. Thank
Hey Andrew, sounds like the turbo is on its way out on the dmax. Very common issue with the my16.5 onwards dmax and mux. Just book it in with your local dealer and they will more then likely replace the turbo. Cheers 😊
@@andrewarchipow6687 I had this two. Warranty for that year model for just the turbo is 500k at the dealer so you should be right for a free replacement.
Hey Mate, got a bit of a curly question for you, I am up for a car renewal shortly, and my budget will allow me up to Toyota prado pricing. I know that the new Isuzu is different to the older ones, do you think its still worth picking one up, even though they are a different beast these days? Will be building it up to be a tourer...Or is there something else I could be looking at for the money? Thanks mate, your input is appreciated!
Thanks Nick really enjoy your videos 👍 Mate I have a 2014 DMAX and I’ve noticed that there’s is some oil developing in the coolant reservoir, I got a head test done to check the head gasket and all is fine there what else could it be?? Oil cooler or turbo maybe?? Cheers Kieran 👍
Hey Kieran, the only other thing would be an oil cooler really. If it's automatic, it could be the trans cooler in the radiator. Otherwise it could be an engine oil cooler.
@hittenmitsuryugi95 If you check with your local auto store they will be able to look your vehicle up and advise on the best coolant. You can use blue or green coolant that meets isuzu specifications. If you are concerned just use genuine coolant. 🙂
@@LowRangeNick ah righto cheers mate.... Yeah I didn't think a catch can would impact that decision but I guess that's a little naive of me....😕.... Cheers for the info & great videos 👌
@@LowRangeNick Hi Nick, any tips for removing the catch can, or is it reasonably straight forward procedure? I don't want to get caught out if I have a warranty issue down the line
Yeah quality content mate...just subscribed to your channel. Just wondering Nick, the Penrite coolant you used says it's good for 8 years, so would you personally change the coolant again around the 8 year mark or sooner? Thanks mate👍
Yeah, you can just get it up to operating temperature. Topping up the fluid as it heats up. Then go for a good drive. Come back and allow the vehicle to cool down and then recheck the coolant level when cool again and top up as necessary.
you just flush the coolant in the radiator? how about the coolant inside the engine block? is it necessesary to flush it too? or just the coolant from the radiator itself?
Thanks Nick. I did read on the DMax forum that blue coolant is recommended as it has GM approval? Did you do any research on what coolant colour to use or just replace green with green?
Agree. Isuzu tech advised me that green coolant is asia factory supplied and when replacing here in Aus the equivalent coolant colour will likely be different. If one follows the manual and GM specs then Penrite blue coolant is one that is appropriate as it is borate and silicate free.
You dont flush radiator out? What about all the old coolant thats still in all the hoses and heater? Old school days i did a reverse flush when changing coolant in both Commodores that had. You would or wouldnt leave the coolant in the system for 8 years? As for the radiator cap i use a safety cap with leaver to release any presure on system.
If you change your coolant regularly then a flush is not really necessary as you are replacing 99.9% of the Coolant in the system. If I had a second hand vehicle with no knowledge of when the Coolant was changed last or the cooling system looked dirty then yes, a flush would be necessary.
@@Mick_4591 It really depends how the Coolant looks and tests. 8 years and 500,000km is the maximum time this coolant can last in optimal running conditions and still be serviceable. As I said in the video, Isuzu recommend checking and testing the Coolant at every service and replacing it if necessary.
I've got a specific cooling system funnel with attachments specific to various makes (Japanese small bayonet, GM bigger bayonet, ford expansion tanks, etc etc) highly recommended. It's surprising though that Isuzu still call for an older IAT green type coolant. But hey, if it ain't broke, don't fix it. Funnel is perfect for bleeding engines that are an utter bi**h to bleed 🤣 And i can name a few.... What oil do you run in the ol'e I-Swah-Zoo ?
@@LowRangeNick Funny enough i run the ENVIRO+ 5w40 myself My FG specs a 5w30 but it's outside warranty so i went to 5w40 & my old 04' Toyota 1MZ runs the same 5w40, it's brilliant stuff. I personally prefer it over the HPR5 ENVIRO+ in a 1MZ-FE ?, yep... it's ran it for atleast 100k & the internals are spotless. Why the 5w40 ?, well the biggest selling point was the significantly higher viscosity index over many of penrites range i was looking at (higher the VI the more consistent oil viscosity stays at varying temperature ranges) closest thing i could find to that 197+ mark was Mobil 1 0w40 260k in my Toyota & it doesn't burn enough oil inbetween services to notice it on the dipstick.
To safely dispose of used coolant, keep these rules in mind: Do not pour your waste coolant down the drain; Do not pour your coolant outside on the ground; Take your old coolant to a local recycling centre.
This is what is required at the 75k service. If you change your coolant like this and maintain the system concentration you shouldn't need to completely flush out the system. If you have an old vehicle that hasn't been serviced properly, or you are unsure of the service history, or the system if showing signs of corrosion then you would need to flush it through with demineralised water.
No need to flush the block? Was always of the understanding coolants cant mix with others, which is why the block gets flushed out. Easy job looks like, mine is due at 75k now and mechanic said its fine as it tested well... why do mechanics never follow the manufactuers service interval schedule lol lazy pricks. Might have to do it myself as ol mate ticked the log book as being done so itll still be warranted 😂
You shouldn't mix different coolant colours, but you can top up a green system with any type of long life green coolant if necessary. When changing the Coolant like this it removes 99% of the Coolant in the system which is more than sufficient. If you are concerned you could get an extra 5l of demineralized water and pour it into the radiator and wait for it to all flush through the system. Cheers 😊
@@LowRangeNick all good mate if low range Nick says its good enough for the viewers then it's good enough. Ur channel isn't some Hick channel where ur in the back country crushing beer cans with ur forehead. U seem credible and offer sound advice in every video u make.
![How to Flush Cooling System The Right Way | Coolant Change [Montero Sport]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/oDiFz1S6LL0/mqdefault.jpg)
Hey Guys! Here's a few links to some tools that will make the job a heap easier!
Drain Pan - amzn.to/3GbosqE
Socket set - amzn.to/3eaxjNc
Funnel - amzn.to/3z1GlWG
Ultimate Spill proof funnel kit - amzn.to/3FAceYS
Coolant Test Strips - amzn.to/3FAceYS
5L Measuring Jug - amzn.to/3z4cSv1
Trim tool kit - amzn.to/3z2uzv7
Penrite 5L Concentrate Coolant - amzn.to/3eyX7CQ
Penrite 5L Premix Coolant - amzn.to/3z1rTxM
Penrite 1L Concentrate Coolant - amzn.to/3erHfCr
Penrite 1L Premix Coolant - amzn.to/3etO3zu
Penrite 1L Demineralized Water - amzn.to/312xask
Cheers :)
Thanks Nick. Finding someone as knowledgeable as you that has exactly the same car has been a life savor!
Cheers Todd 😊
What a absolute bloody legend. You couldn't make videos any more clear and understandable. And there's no better feeling than working on your car and getting all your servicing done on the weekend. I can now do it all with your videos Nick. Cheers
I always had difficulty in getting the same amount of coolant into the system and someone suggested that I leave the radiator cap on whilst the system was draining. This was so good it even emptied the expansion tank which saved removing it. This my third Isuzu being a MUX which I will be maintaining it using your fantastic advice for which I thank you!
So comprehensive that it will provide any DIYer full confidence.
Thanks a lot Noel 🙂
good vid but wrong coolant for Isuzu 3 lt motor here in Australia Nick. You need a coolant as per specs from Isuzu Ute ie in Penrite it is their OAT coolant that is blue and is borate and silicate free and GM6277M standard compliant. The heater core needs to be drained out too and there is a engine block coolant drain plug too I believe. If you check Super Cheap Auto, put in vehicle ie your MUX, it says your Penrite is NOT suitable.
Nic, you certainly make it look really easy with clear and precise instructions, thank you.
Thanks Jeff 😀
The procedure looks easy, thanks for the video. In my country the Isuzu brings DexCool yellow coolant.
Hi Nick, Great videos mate I really enjoy seeing all your videos and seeing you explain and service your car as it should be done even though I'm a mechanic too and do it all day at work lol. I have recently purchased my first 4x4 in a 2015 VW Amarok so I'm keen to get stuck into servicing it and fixing it up. Looking forward to seeing more videos soon mate.
Hey Mark! Congrats on getting yourself an Amarok. Thanks alot for the message 😊
I was given a good tip to get all the coolant out of the system including the expansion bottle is to leave the radiator cap on whilst and open the drain. It will completely empty the system
So I did a full flush back in February with replacing the radiator bottom and top hoses with Isuzu genuine parts and replaced the thermostat and radiator cap too. I accidentally snapped one of the thermostat bolts and had to get brand new ones from Isuzu as I over torqued one of them with my digital torque wrench. I literally went to 26Nm and snapped it. Was a total accident on my account setting the digital to 27Nm accidentally and not under 25Nm (workshop book states).
I changed and went to NulonONE Coolant as it meets GM6277M Isuzu guidelines. But have a feeling it has silicates in it for prolong 10year coolant life that Nulon I reckon is partially using in its formula. I reckon it’s a Si-OAT coolant. Isuzu is anal about coolants that have silicates and borates in it.
I actually went to Nulon and asked them back and forth emails for a couple weeks in depth about several of their coolants including the red premium. Actually had one of the engineers go back onto their website and edit some discrepancies in their info. It got updated the following week when I went and checked to say it didn’t contain borates although there is still a spelling mistake without a comma used when he updated the site for the red premium coolant. Which was interesting to see. I actually stumped one of their chemical engineers who kept assuming he was right with ingredients involved in their OAT coolant for NulonONE. He kept repeating and calling it a OAT coolant but I reckon due to its 10year long life formula it contains silicates in it, making it practically a SI-OAT Coolant. I have a feeling I was right with my assumption as the website got updated in certain key elements stating what was actually in their red premium long life coolant, but he was stubborn with accepting I was right.
Long story short I think I’ll be changing back from NulonONE to a Nulon Red Premium Coolant or even Valvolines Dex-cool. I was going to pick Penrite Blue OEM Coolant but it doesn’t state is has no Borates in it. Isuzu stipulates in the hand book no Silicates or Borates should be contained in the coolant. When I change the coolant type I’ll also be replacing the radiator with genuine Isuzu as I have a feeling it weeps as the reservoir keeps dropping every couple weeks.
Nick what size hose is that factory hose that goes from the reservoir to the radiator top? Is it a 8mm or 6mm black hose?. Thinking I might bling it out with a blue new one too while I change to a silicone top and bottom radiator coloured hoses even though I just replaced them with rubber genuine ones. Also I’ve been told by someone that you can empty the block with a drain plug on one of the sides. Just curious to know where this is so I don’t have to take the thermostat out again to flush through the top.
Also it’s wise to throw some Nulon R40 Radiator Flush through the system. Do this by getting the vehicle upto operating temperature. Switch it off and unscrew drain plug down the radiator bottom making sure not to get any of the hot coolant on yourself. Once 99%of it has drained unscrew the radiator cap and let some pressure air bubble relief to drain some more out. Run at least a few litres of distilled water through the top of the radiator fill and let it all run through to flush. Refilling the radiator up with 100% distilled water and pour in the Nulon R40. Run the vehicle back upto temp and drain and flush again.
Thank you Nick for granting my request by puting up this coolant change instruction video..
No worries Simon 🛠😊
Awesome video mate, super easy to follow and informative. I'll be doing a coolant change next. Have you thought about doing a brake upgrade (braided lines, slotted rotors etc)? Cheers
I have thought about upgrading the brakes and lines. I think it will be modification I do when we get a caravan though. The mu-x still pulls up great with the standard brakes at the moment though.
Really good vids. Thanks. I have seen Dmax's with aftermarket bonnet gas struts to eliminate the front centre hood strut. Would be interested to see how that is done...
Just remember the 14mm block drain located just above the LH engine mount bracket right next to the oil pressure sender unit which is accessible with the LH front wheel removed. Important to drain the engine block and heater circuit to remove all residual old coolant. NOTE: Penrite actually recommend the RED 8yr OEM coolant for all 4JJ1 Dmax, Colorado & MU-X after 2008 although I have used the green with zero issues. (not sure why they changed) Another great vid Nick 👌👍
Is there any drama removing block drain plug on 2019 dmax Thanks Ken
I thank you muchly for showing the location of the block drain plug. Searched for it and finally by removing FLH wheel and front drive line, I was able to gain good access. Thailand video shows it also, but quite hidden. Thanks..
Some years ago it was always difficult to get the specified cooling water volume out of an engine when some one suggest to me to leave the radiator cap on whilst draining the water, This will even drain the expansion bottle as well leaving the system empty. I personally added the recommended quantity neat coolant and topped it up with water to correct the ration and used any coolant left over put neat into the expansion bottle guaranteeing sufficient coolant if over the correct ration but certainly not short.
I have done this for many many years with never a problem of any kind.
John
Hi! Can you make a video on how to clean the Intercooler? Thank you!
Sir nick,i m from Bhutan, so i would like sayn to u about,can volvoline advance coolant green can use benefit or not in isuzu dmax pickup turbo intercooler bs4,2021 mid model sir?😊.
G'day Nick, love your videos. Can't help but notice that you have gone with an out of spec coolant 😬 Isuzu uses an OAT coolant, and Penrite would quote it as penrite blue. I'm currently about to change mine and wondering why you went with what you have recommended?
Thanks for this video Nick.
Quick question. In a cold engine (with thermostat closed), how come you were able to drain all of your coolant? Isn't the engine bay supposed to hold off some of the coolant due to the close thermostat?
That's correct, the thermostat will be closed when cold but it is not completely water tight. There is a little valve in the thermostat that allows coolant past, if you wait long enough it will all drain out eventually. Around 30 minutes seems to be long enough to get it all out.
@@LowRangeNick whats
The process for changing coolant from isuzu's coolant to the coolant your using?
Ive allways been told you should never mix different brands of coolant
2013 d max
G'day Nick !! thank for that awexome video, really helpful ! advice needed : had the water pump replaced on my son's 2.5 dmax, coolant flushed and replaced. Level is always correct in the expansion vase but it's not up in in the radiator (when radiator cap removed no coolant to be seen !) My son tops it up and it "seems" it overflows when hot via the waste cap (sprays all aver the engine bay) any idea ? cheers !
Check the coolant level in the radiator when the vehicle is cold and top it all the way up to the brim. Then make sure overflow bottle is on Max. If you take it for a long drive and then allow it to cool down and recheck the level If the overflow bottle level is OK and the radiator is low again it could be an issue with the cooling system like a leak, faulty thermostat or radiator cap. Would be best to get it inspected by the workshop that replaced the water pump if something is not correct. Cheers 🙂
@@LowRangeNick Thanks a lot Nick !!! will do that asap ! cheers and keep up the good work !
Bloody Amazing Nick... Belt removal and replacement next??? 👍👍
Thanks alot! Great idea.
@@LowRangeNick bloody magical Mick... Replaced the diff,transfer case oil all because you made it look too easy .. Good call and common sense when you mentioned removing the filler plug first.
Been waiting for this..Back to hard pipes again!! 😬
Yeah, just got some new clamps for the pipes and had a warranty repair carried out.
Do you drain the block as well ? If so how. Cheers
Another informative video, thanks again Nick
Hey there Nick.
Could you give a explanation on how the engine drivrn clutch fan works?
I was recently asked by a " mr expert " how do you know if the clutch fan is working and how does it operate?
I have never really thought about on my 2013 D max.
Cheers
Keeping myself busy through all this seq rain with your videos! Would you recommend I change my thermostat simultaneously (160000kms) I don't think it's been changed before..
Hey Casey! Cheers for watching. It definately can't hurt to replace it as preventative maintenance. In saying that it should be completely fine to keep going for another 160k before needing changing.
On my MUX I supplied my own purchased oil but at the 40000 service I allowed the dealer to use their oil.Following the service the engine when cold emitted an unusual knocking noise for the first time. I had the vehicle back to the dealer several time leaving it over night and I believe Isuzu were involved it solving the problem. On one occasion I notice it was full of oil recommended for a Ford 5w30 which they replaced. At the end of the warranty period I serviced the vehicle myself and returned to using Shell Rimula 15W40 which fixed the condition and things are back to normal.
I have a mux 2020 3.0. After how many years or how many kilometers I will need to change the coolant for the first time
Thanks Nick, awesome video. On an unrelated topic, I have a 2017 dmax with a noisy turbo but only when cold, it's a whinning noise that goes away after about 30 seconds. Should I be worried?? It also has alot more lag in the accelerator compared to my MUX. I was going to get a throttle controller but I'm worried it might mask a bigger problem. Any feedback would be much appreciated. Thank
Hey Andrew, sounds like the turbo is on its way out on the dmax. Very common issue with the my16.5 onwards dmax and mux. Just book it in with your local dealer and they will more then likely replace the turbo. Cheers 😊
That's what I was worried about, thanks man
@@andrewarchipow6687 I had this two. Warranty for that year model for just the turbo is 500k at the dealer so you should be right for a free replacement.
Whats the best way to fill the system which hasnt got a radiator like a rg colorado?
Hey Mate, got a bit of a curly question for you, I am up for a car renewal shortly, and my budget will allow me up to Toyota prado pricing. I know that the new Isuzu is different to the older ones, do you think its still worth picking one up, even though they are a different beast these days? Will be building it up to be a tourer...Or is there something else I could be looking at for the money?
Thanks mate, your input is appreciated!
Thanks, Nick.
Cheers Ian 😊
Thanks Nick really enjoy your videos 👍
Mate I have a 2014 DMAX and I’ve noticed that there’s is some oil developing in the coolant reservoir, I got a head test done to check the head gasket and all is fine there what else could it be?? Oil cooler or turbo maybe??
Cheers Kieran 👍
Hey Kieran, the only other thing would be an oil cooler really. If it's automatic, it could be the trans cooler in the radiator. Otherwise it could be an engine oil cooler.
@@LowRangeNick Thanks Nick👍
Thanks Nick. Great instruction.
I noticed that you start the engine without waiting for the glow plugs to work at all before kicking it over?
You don't need glow plugs in QLD 😂 Haha Its just because I was filming. I usually let the glow light go out before starting.
@@LowRangeNick lol, i normally wait for the fuel light to go off as well…… about 3 seconds after the GP light.
Hi Nick...does coolant color really matter? Or just for older model? I have a 2015 dmax...Thanks Nick
I was reading all the comments...found out about the blue coolant...May I know your great advise...
Totally appreciated🙏🙏🙏
@hittenmitsuryugi95 If you check with your local auto store they will be able to look your vehicle up and advise on the best coolant. You can use blue or green coolant that meets isuzu specifications. If you are concerned just use genuine coolant. 🙂
Another awesome vid mate. Did I notice your provent catch can was gone?
Yes, removed for a warranty repair to be carried out and haven't gotten round to refitting.
Can I ask what warranty claim made you feel it was best to remove the catch can?? 🤔
@@PaulOff-RoadDownunder Turbo Replacement
@@LowRangeNick ah righto cheers mate.... Yeah I didn't think a catch can would impact that decision but I guess that's a little naive of me....😕.... Cheers for the info & great videos 👌
@@LowRangeNick Hi Nick, any tips for removing the catch can, or is it reasonably straight forward procedure? I don't want to get caught out if I have a warranty issue down the line
Have u ever flushed ur dmax engine??
Yeah quality content mate...just subscribed to your channel. Just wondering Nick, the Penrite coolant you used says it's good for 8 years, so would you personally change the coolant again around the 8 year mark or sooner?
Thanks mate👍
Hey Nick! Thanks a lot for watching and subscribing. I would probably change it sooner, around the 5 year mark I think would be good.
@@LowRangeNick thanks for the advice mate.. keep up the great content....maybe a power steering fluid change vid soon? 🤔😁👌
Hi Nick Iive in Indonesia and my Mux there is no heater function. Can I skip this part? And also how can I tell if there is no air bubble? Thxs🙏
Yeah, you can just get it up to operating temperature. Topping up the fluid as it heats up. Then go for a good drive. Come back and allow the vehicle to cool down and then recheck the coolant level when cool again and top up as necessary.
@@LowRangeNick Thank you Nick 🙏
you just flush the coolant in the radiator? how about the coolant inside the engine block? is it necessesary to flush it too?
or just the coolant from the radiator itself?
In this vehicle, draining from the radiator and extracting coolant from the overflow bottle will remove all the coolant from the system.
Hi ,how many litres of that premix poured in the radiator?
10l all up
Thanks Nick. I did read on the DMax forum that blue coolant is recommended as it has GM approval? Did you do any research on what coolant colour to use or just replace green with green?
I just checked at my local auto store to check what they listen for the mux and also checked the hand book.
Agree. Isuzu tech advised me that green coolant is asia factory supplied and when replacing here in Aus the equivalent coolant colour will likely be different. If one follows the manual and GM specs then Penrite blue coolant is one that is appropriate as it is borate and silicate free.
Great Vid Nick, what are the 2 red Radiator red brackets. Are they an improvement on the original?
They are just billet aluminium anodized HPD parts. You can find them on Facebook at 4jj1blingparts. They are just for looks 😊
@@LowRangeNick thank you Nick
Dimineralized water, can I use h aircon or rain water?
You can use any water, but the best water to use is demineralised as it won't cause corrosion in the cooling system.
Where do you get your mux accessories? Isuzu or 3rd party?
Mainly 3rd party aftermarket accessories. But I do have a few genuine accessories fitted to the vehicle.
So how many litters of coolant is needed if you flushed it all
I think it's around 9-10l.
You dont flush radiator out?
What about all the old coolant thats still in all the hoses and heater? Old school days i did a reverse flush when changing coolant in both Commodores that had.
You would or wouldnt leave the coolant in the system for 8 years?
As for the radiator cap i use a safety cap with leaver to release any presure on system.
If you change your coolant regularly then a flush is not really necessary as you are replacing 99.9% of the Coolant in the system. If I had a second hand vehicle with no knowledge of when the Coolant was changed last or the cooling system looked dirty then yes, a flush would be necessary.
@@LowRangeNick but you wouldnt leave the coolant for 8 years
@@Mick_4591 It really depends how the Coolant looks and tests. 8 years and 500,000km is the maximum time this coolant can last in optimal running conditions and still be serviceable. As I said in the video, Isuzu recommend checking and testing the Coolant at every service and replacing it if necessary.
Too good brother u explain so so nice can u show us how u make a child plz.
I've got a specific cooling system funnel with attachments specific to various makes (Japanese small bayonet, GM bigger bayonet, ford expansion tanks, etc etc) highly recommended.
It's surprising though that Isuzu still call for an older IAT green type coolant. But hey, if it ain't broke, don't fix it.
Funnel is perfect for bleeding engines that are an utter bi**h to bleed 🤣
And i can name a few....
What oil do you run in the ol'e I-Swah-Zoo ?
I run the Penrite Enviro+ 10w40 engine oil.
@@LowRangeNick Funny enough i run the ENVIRO+ 5w40 myself
My FG specs a 5w30 but it's outside warranty so i went to 5w40 & my old 04' Toyota 1MZ runs the same 5w40, it's brilliant stuff. I personally prefer it over the HPR5
ENVIRO+ in a 1MZ-FE ?, yep... it's ran it for atleast 100k & the internals are spotless. Why the 5w40 ?, well the biggest selling point was the significantly higher viscosity index over many of penrites range i was looking at (higher the VI the more consistent oil viscosity stays at varying temperature ranges) closest thing i could find to that 197+ mark was Mobil 1 0w40
260k in my Toyota & it doesn't burn enough oil inbetween services to notice it on the dipstick.
tq for the info
To safely dispose of used coolant, keep these rules in mind:
Do not pour your waste coolant down the drain;
Do not pour your coolant outside on the ground;
Take your old coolant to a local recycling centre.
Great tips! Thanks Pete 😊
good working but....this is not completely flashing 😭😭
This is what is required at the 75k service. If you change your coolant like this and maintain the system concentration you shouldn't need to completely flush out the system. If you have an old vehicle that hasn't been serviced properly, or you are unsure of the service history, or the system if showing signs of corrosion then you would need to flush it through with demineralised water.
@@LowRangeNick
thanks Nick for that information..now I know the different
Half an hour drive 😂😂
No need to flush the block? Was always of the understanding coolants cant mix with others, which is why the block gets flushed out.
Easy job looks like, mine is due at 75k now and mechanic said its fine as it tested well... why do mechanics never follow the manufactuers service interval schedule lol lazy pricks. Might have to do it myself as ol mate ticked the log book as being done so itll still be warranted 😂
You shouldn't mix different coolant colours, but you can top up a green system with any type of long life green coolant if necessary. When changing the Coolant like this it removes 99% of the Coolant in the system which is more than sufficient. If you are concerned you could get an extra 5l of demineralized water and pour it into the radiator and wait for it to all flush through the system. Cheers 😊
@@LowRangeNick all good mate if low range Nick says its good enough for the viewers then it's good enough. Ur channel isn't some Hick channel where ur in the back country crushing beer cans with ur forehead. U seem credible and offer sound advice in every video u make.
@@krump743 haha thanks alot 😊