Jeep AW-4 Nifty Shifter JR v1.1 demo
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- Опубліковано 2 січ 2020
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Nick I've been using ur videos left and right cause we have the same year jeep thank you so much bro u are awesome keep it up I see me getting a jr when I get mine to a similar point to ur jeep
NickInTime films , my go-to guy , I can't wait to get mine and happy new year
this man is a freaking genius like i love this stuff
I just ordered mine! cant wait! I'll update later once installed.
Great! Great job as usual! I have a 5 spd and still feel like I need one of these on the shelf LOL
Just got it setup in my 01 XJ, working great so far. Literally just a few minutes for the basic install. Hardest part was getting the display to fit into the A pillar gauge pod. I had to shave the pod just a little to fit right.
Glad to hear! Was the Cube Part of the screen too tight, or the Ring Frame?
@@NickInTimeFilms the cube part was just a little to big to fit in the pod hole
You are awesome Nick👍👍👍👍👍
I got mine yesterday and omg it changed how i drive my jeep totally nick you are a genius thanks for making a great product
This is amazing. Saving my dollars as of right now.
great job Mr. intimefilms, can't wait for the pro model. will the pro be standalone, keeping all the auto functions while not requiring canbus to work? for us that want to 1uz the jeep
The pro is going to be programable, so I suppose if I can work out an entire auto mode in code then it could be standalone. It wouldn't be able to talk to the canbus at all, so in a stock system that would probably throw codes.
Hell ya got mine wired up to 4 pullstrings. I can't use the ceiling fans in my house now but it was worth it
Hahaha, that's sounds incredibly funny and I'd actually love to see what that looks like in action 🤣
EDIT: nevermind. Website shows red as an option :)
Are there different options for screen color? I think I'd prefer the red. Just don't like bright lights on the dash. Although if it's comparable to the REM clock version I have, then maybe it's fine.
Hey Nick do you think i can wire a switch and inline fuse to the oem fuse for my tcu to get my aw4 into 1st gear/low range for off road.? Renix does not have limp mode?
Awesome
Hey I just got your nifty shifter in the mail. Hooked it up to my 2000 Jeep Cherokee classic 4.0L... so it works, but... the optionally display I purchased only displays the number 4 no matter what gear I’m in. I have only tried “factory shifter” mode which works well (main reason I bought this unit is to stay in first gear while in low range). Unfortunately, after driving down the road in manual mode for a mile, the check engine light came on ☠️ so that’s kinda disappointing. Also, I had to modify the connectors to get them to plug into your nifty shifter, one of the vanes wasn’t in the right place but all the pin locations looked the same 🤷🏼♂️
Can you contact me on Facebook, Instagram, or email so i can look up your order? Did you select the correct year when ordering, the grey connector is for 97 only which is keyed differently and is missing a few wires that the white 98 up connector added later. It will probably give you a check engine light for transmission speed sensor faults as well if that's the case since those are the missing wires.
what about white purple and orange could that all be wired together and when you flick the switch up its overdrive and torque converter?
Love the channel been a big fan since the early days keep up the great work! I had a quick question I know this is off topic but I need help, if anyone here or you can point me in the right direction it would help me a lot.
Heres whats going on, I have a 1991 jeep cherokee 4.0. 217,000 k miles on it, it was burning oil so I had no choice but open it up and see what is going inside.
Took off the head saw bad burnt values so I started with the head took them all out cleanded them up and did value job with compound and that rubber tool to re seat them everything looked perfect after that seat was perfect also value steams where changed few months before this so they looked OK. After the head I saw the block walls where smooth with no cross patterns left, so I took all the pistons out rings where not stuck or brunt they moved freely, next I re hoaned the walls to make the crisscross pattern I removed all the rings and cleaned all pistons up everything was super clean and rings where moving like they where new I also replaced the piston bearings cause they showed sign of wear. Before I put everything back I did a simple test put one piston in and poured oil on top of it to see if oil would drop through the rings left it for 2 days no oil went through I did the same test before I did the hoan and clean up of piston rings and oil fell through within hours. So I thought this was a good sign. after hoaning and ring clean up I believed rings where tight and no blow by was going to happen. Then I put everything back in. the car stared perfect and I thought everything was great then I did compression test each read same reading 125.125.125.125.124 126.
So I drove it about 100 miles and oil was below safe line, OKi though maybe the rings need time to set in new block walls but no 1000 miles later I'm burning even more oil then before almost a whole quart every 70 miles that's really really bad.
My mistake I feel is because I didn't replace the piston rings ? But they looked totally fine and where moving with ease.
Please what do you think I did wrong here? I don't want to give up on this jeep but this is crzy how much oil it's going through I'm willing to take it apart again trying to fix it, currently it has good power no blue smoke but the oil I just disappearing. Sorry this is so long but I'm so lost and any help would be greatly appreciated.
Hmm, How is the PCV system? Is there a lot of oil in any of the vacuum lines? A lot of pressure when you take off the oil cap with engine running? I'm not a master with the piston sealing stuff, but maybe the oil scraper rings aren't working correctly? I'm not entirely sure, but that is quite a lot of oil to just disappear.
Needs new rings.used rings are flat. On the edge that rides in the cylinder bore. The new rings need their end gaps set and they will seat into your cross hatches. Also end gaps need to be staggered. If they are all lined up the path for leakage is straight along the side of the piston and into crankcase.
@@scottcampbell2836
OK thank you so much it's Been a nightmare
This is rad man! Pretty sweet little unit. I'll have to order me one of these soon!
I also have a question, while in manual mode does the torque converter lock still automatically kick in at higher speeds or do you have to switch it manually?
TC still has to be manually locked
Okay, thanks for the reply! Is there some sort of fail safe if you leave the TC locked when coming to a stop? Sorry if this is a stupid question just trying to wrap my head around everything 😂
Nothing too fancy with this one, just plain old manual and your brain. TC control isn't all that common, it's just there for completions sake
hey nick could i play pacman and switch gears at the same time
Will this allow me to start it second or 3 rd for snow driving?also is the newest version available?..this looks awesome
Yep, it'll let you hold whatever gear you want. The 96 down are currently out of stock because I can't source connectors anymore. I need to build a splice in version until I can figure out a new solution to that.
I need this
Have you tested this with the NP242? The NP 242 has a extra full time 4wd planetary gear.
I've only had experience with the 231, but a transmission shifter won't affect transfercase operation any, just holds you in gear
that is perfect
Nice
Nick, what would cause my tc not to lock?
At highway speeds it does go into 4th, but I know it's not locking because if I play with the throttle, revs change, but speed doesn't.
Check your TCU brake switch if you've got a renix. Its separate from the light switch, white vertical looking pusher. Gotta make sure it's adjusted correctly as the TC will not engage if the brake switch is active. It's inverted so don't let that confuse you
Just bought one from you for my 01. My question is dose the black wire on the ribbon cable have to be grounded?
No, the black is already grounded, it's just there to provide you with easy access if you needed to wire a switch light to ground.
Any idea when you will have the pro shifter available? I really want the sequential shifter
That's on the list right after the REM clock panel, so I'd say probably late 2020
Im not sure what i did but the display was working fine without any switches wired. So i wired the display switch for tc and plugged in the ribbon connector. When parked and idling, now the display shows “4” in all positions when it should be “1”. When in manual mode (power switch) park,R,N,D and 3 all display “2” . 1-2 position displays “4”. What happened? Did i blow something up?
If it's easier, you can contact me through email or Facebook. nickintimedesign.com/contact/
First question is what version so you have? It's printed on the display board.
The first thing to test is with the shifter in auto mode. Drive it around and see if the display seems to be displaying the correct gear and the vehicle is shifting the way it normally does. If the display shows the wrong gear then it's probably toast, especially if it's older then a v1.2.
If the display does work fine in auto then we need to check that the shifter is setup correctly. If the P switch is on, make sure the manual ribbon wire is not hooked up.
After that just check that the shifting inputs are all good.
Any other questions, feel free to ask
Nick my REM is losing the display. Comes on properly 20 percent of the time.i been careful of getting the adapter wet. Also has trans cooler blow up and atf all over and had to wash engine 3 times. Plus fixing engine oil leaks and washing it twice for that.
Hmm, have you checked the cord on the REM side? Occasionally if it's not sitting correctly then it seems to not boot right. If a new cord doesn't fix it then you can always send it back and I'll try to fix it
@@NickInTimeFilms i made sure to be extra careful with the cord. Them cat 5s can be a constant pain. Let me go try my 20 foot cord and see if it changes.
@@NickInTimeFilms its dark and cold here and can't find cable. And of course it worked all 5 times i started it lmao. I ll be in touch sometime sunday. Thanks
Nick, Are there any differences between the 96- and 97+ unit? We dont have the power comfort mode and all that.
The only difference is the plugs obviously, and the P/C mode switch is removed. Otherwise identical.
Could I wire up 1st 2nd 3nd as DRIVE, 3, 1-2? Just so if I’m about to roll I quick slam into reverse lol
Can't do a proper reverse valve body on the factory setup. Can't get 3rd in D1-2 as it's not mechanically possible
Just now watched video nice. Does this work for 2001 model cherokee now ?
It does!
First off if you put out decals on your shop site I'd buy.
Second could you sell the LED pod and wiring separately? I still have the prototype and would like the upgrade.
Yeah, I gotta come up with a logo or design to make stickers, just haven't had a lot of free time for fun things.
And I could totally sell you the display separately if you like, but on the JR v1, the screen switch is permanently wired to manual mode. Also, I'm recalling the JR v1s as I found a few issue that really need fixing as they cause slight trans drag and will blow screens over time. Just need a few didoes that I'll add free of charge
@@NickInTimeFilms so how would I be able to send in my V1 for the recall? And would I be able to send a money order for the new display?
@@mocreekhunter1076 pm me and I can get you setup through the site or just straight PayPal. nickintimedesign.com/contact/
I bought this about a year ago and finally getting around to installing on my ‘95, no comfort/power switch. I just need the basics so want to use the screen switch for auto/manual selection. Just confirming the wiring: Red to +12v, white & brown twisted together, and thats it? Thanks.
Just white to brown and you're set., Red already has 12v on it, as does black already having ground. I've got a slightly updated install manual with pretty pictures on the one side if you need anything, available on the websites under downloads.
@@NickInTimeFilms Awesome and thanks for he quick reply, will be installing today.
Hi Nick ,,,i got a problem on my 91Cherokee , I got to wait 20mins with the key on and wait until the check engine start turning on real bright ,,ounce the check engine is real bright i could turn it on ,,I Checked all grounds cables and they ok ,what can it be ??
What happens if you try to start it when it's dim? Is it a really slow crank or won't even try? It sounds like there is some sort of voltage issue but I don't know as much about HO jeeps
I need this. Been wanting it for a year. When will it be available again?
They are available now on my website! NickInTimeDesign.com
would this be a good solution for swapping an Aw4 into my 03 Wj? Are the TCM connectors the same?
This only gives manual control over the AW4 so you'll still need to swap in a TCU if you want auto shifting.
Dose this replace a tcu that dosnt downshift?(just hold selected gear{1,3,4}) Or should i just get that issue fixed? Or if you have any idea what causes the no downshift?
Selct trac 88 wagoneer limited xj if that helps any
This is designed to work with the TCU and give you manual control when you need it.
I'd check the TPS first since that tells the TCU when to change the shift pattern
Do the screen mounts coming with the screen add on? Definitely wanna run the gauge mount option
Yep, each display order comes with the mounting frames.
@@NickInTimeFilms awesome, thanks for the reply man. Looks like such a solid set up with so much customization
Is there a way to wire lock up without going into manual mode
Yes! With the Dual TC mode, you can activate TC in auto mode. Only side effect is that the TCU could also activate TC in Manual mode
I’m a little confused. If I don’t have a power comfert button do I need one for everything to work?
Yes, you need to have a manual switch at the very least. The power mode is just an option for a manual switch.
Ok thank you!!!!
@nickintimefilms If I only want to switch between manual and auto modes, can I bypass the ribbon cable and just use the switch on the screen?
The ribbon cable still needs to be used to connect the screen to the manual mode input.
I have been debating on removing the semi auto TC mode feature in favor of a screen to manual mode selector so the ribbon cable wouldn't be needed in a case like yours.
@@NickInTimeFilms Thank you for the speedy reply! Will most likely be ordering one of these soon! One more question: if i'm using the 123 manual mode and want 4th, can I just switch back into auto mode to get overdrive?
That would depend if the transmission computer was in 4th when you went back to auto.
Is this still for sale? If so, can this control the transmission without the need of a tps signal? Im planning on doing a stand alone ecu to manage timing/fuel but ive been told that transmission needs tps signal.
This is only a manual controller, so it is only useful if you plan to manually shift it. Worst case, it shouldn't be that hard to tack on a TPS signal to keep your auto control, otherwise it'll just short shift on you when you floor it. Could wire in a potentiometer at a fixed point to just let it shift for you somewhere in the middle too.
@@NickInTimeFilms the Xj is for racing only, no daily drive or anything like that. We have 4.0 nitrous fed xj’s doing 4.5segs in the 100 yards sand drags on stock renix efi systems, so i want to build a terminator x and just found your controller, i think it will work with no problems without the tps(always in manual mode). But yeah tps signal to factory transmission controller is not hard to wire.
Yeah, if you're looking for just manual, this should do great for you. No TPS needed for that.
Im doing a aw4 conversion into my 01 tj now.can you run paddle shifters with this
Not with the JR, it has to be a 4 way stick or separate gear buttons
@@NickInTimeFilms Im pipe dreaming abit with paddle shifters.for the old jeep.im just wanting to get it working and stable.im in australia.the 32r would be easier.but the aw4 is just a better trans.
Could I use this with an om617 diesel swap?
I don't see why not. This just uses the Neutral safety switch inputs which are right on the transmission.
hey Nick will be your rear Axl out of a 99 Ford Explorer and the rims fit my 92 Cherokee
I went with a Dana 44 rear, but an explorer 8.8 will fit your wheel pattern. Will need custom suspension mounts though
@@NickInTimeFilms thx again
@@kansascityjimi2531 did you do the 8.8 swap yet? If not I highly suggest it one of the BEST upgrades I ever did. But don't bother with it if it has drum brakes find one from a different model most up models if not all have rear disc brakes depending on years and also factory LSD to boot one thing is is ive heard the carrier is weak when going to 35-37" tires but one would or should assume that anyway going with bigger tires especially beyond 35" . If you do it and want or need your E brake to work Mountain offroad enterprises has a cable for XJ to 8.8 swaps to make it stupuidly easy 150$ I think so not cheap but worth it to just plug and play.
Will this work on a 2001 XJ? I heard that there's a difference in the computer for that year.
I'm wondering the same. He said in a previous video that he would eventually work on it but idk if that got into this model. However, he does mention it wont throw engine codes which is the main problem with that late model xj's.
Yes, I have a 97 up version as well!
@@NickInTimeFilms can we get a link to that one
@@donnywilderness nickintimedesign.com/product/aw4-nifty-shifter-jr-v1-97/
Where do I go to get this?
On my website! Link in the description.
Will this work on the zj?
Only if it had an AW4, which was for 1 year only. Never found anyone with that combo to test on.
Where do i go to find your products
Nickintimedesign.com
Will this still work if i have a shift kit installed in my AW4
Hardware mods should effect anything. Shift kit is just firmer shits yeah?
NickInTimeFilms Correct, it also had the option to lock you into first in 1-2
@@NickInTimeFilms donde consigo uno ?
They are available on my website. nickintimedesign.com
@@NickInTimeFilms leave a message on your facebook page
You can do all of this with less work for like $30.... The AW4 is one of the simplest electronically controlled automatic transmissions out there. It has 3 solenoids (1-2,3-4, and converter lockup) that you can hook to 3 normal toggle switches either as jumpers allowing normal operation still or as the sole power source for complete manual control for off road use, and this has to have those switches anyway so its not like it provides a cleaner install potential. There is multiple videos online showing how to do all of this without any of this silly extra shit to pay for, and if you can handle wiring this up you can handle doing it without a module, as it is literally easier and more simplistic than this, and the wiring diagrams are readily available online.
Also the AW4 already has engine braking in every shifter selection except drive, especially if you're in low range, which if you're descending a steep offroad hill you already should be.
Onde compro? Meu jeep 1997. Cambio 42rle.
This only works with the AW4 transmission.
@@NickInTimeFilms thank you brother!
I am sold do you ship to new Zealand?
I do! I actually shipped one of these the NZ last week!
Go new Zealand will be placing an order in the next week or 2 just gonna use the stock shift plus switches
@@joshbrljevich1953 I'm in Christchurch if you wanted to check it out. Due to arrive today.
I got mine yesterday and omg i love it absolute game changer for the aw4
Everyone get shwwwiftyy in here!!
Is this still avalible??
Yes sir! Check my website at nickintimedesign.com
Hello, is it possible to deliver in Mexico?
Yes! I ship internationally
@@NickInTimeFilms I’ve been reading some stuff in your page, so, is it available a kit to my 95 Cherokee?
I'm currently out of the 96 down because of a connector shortage. I'll be working on a splice in version soon though
@@NickInTimeFilms since your having trouble finding connectors or can't get them anymore would you be able to make one plug and play if I i sent you a set of connectors cut out of an xj? The female plug is built into the TCM so I'd have to send you a TCM and the plug cut out of a cherokee. Could you harvest the plug out of a TCM and also reuse the other plug? Is that possible? I suppose you'd need to find contacts and I dont know if those are available or where to find them. I know I've had trouble finding contacts for some of the OEM plugs and trouble identifying some plugs to search for contacts if I could find contacts i would love to rebuild a stock wire harness with milspec wire and add some things but thats off topic lol.
I'm picky and i like how your nifty shifter is plug and play i have one in my 92 Cherokee and I'm contemplating one for our other 92 Cherokee.
I have all the parts for the wire harness connector, my issue is sourcing the TCU side connector. If it was harvested from a TCU and sent to me, I could make a plug and play unit for you.
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