I just started this modification on one of my lights I have for a motorcycle build. This video is worth its weight in gold!!!! Thanks to you. I went from were do I even start to I now have a plan!!
Just watched your conversion, keep up the good work, I'm renovating an old VW single cab pickup from the late 80's, no where near as old as the truck's you are working on, however you have given me some brilliant idea's , for modifications I can make to mine with just a bit of effort an a few basic item's. I've also looked at some of your other video's, absolutely brilliant, thank's for sharing your skills....
Outstanding tutorial from a craftsman who knows that true Hot-Rods are built not bought... Anybody can throw down $20k and drive one but few people can build one from scratch... 😉👍
This is a $10 conversion; however, requires a few thousand dollars in tools. Moreover, agree with the others about aiming and focusing the headlights and the reflectivity of stainless steel versus silver. Very informative and educational.
I don't dare to imagine what would a beam pattern look like. I mean - I keep modding and inventing, investing hundreds of hours and euros into headlight prototypes to make an innovative pattern to improve visibility and decrease glare to the oncoming traffic only to make a decent safety improvement, while you take a fucking bowl and promote it as a halogen headlight. Well that really keeps me thinking.
+zokieboi - well hot rodding can come about two ways. One spend thousands of $$$$$$ or come up with alternate solutions that make it more affordable and still safe. What I have shown here is a method of improving the original 1928-31 Ford headlight using a cost effective method. It does have a very improved light beam over the original. Yes it will not be as good as something you spend hundreds of $$$$$ on but not everyone that builds a hot rod has deep pockets to spend unlimited amounts of $$$$$ for their project.
+1929fordhotrod +zokieboy - Hey John, your website is dope, got lots of inspiration there! I know its been a long time to comment, but I'm amazed by how you response to this somewhat interesting comment from this zokieboi, while most would just burst their lips replying, but that's a smart and humble answer you gave him. As i see it, and as you stated, there's always 2 side in the customworks world, the one with unlimited amount of $$$$$$ and the one with shallow pockets with only deep spirit on working on their build, and you wrap that well in the answer, and these 2 comments really shows those 2 ways in a nutshell, glad to see these 2 well written words, and there's still people using their head in comments, where most people just saying shits on comments. *btw for those who didnt have a lathe, you could also bore a hole with a holesaw or a frostner bit to make the hole for the housing in the bowl, just mark a center and drill through it and bam.
From what I can work out, the USA has little if any inspection of cars after they are sold. No yearly test as we have in the UK (and I suspect, the rest of Europe). The police seem to be responsible for taking unroadworthy vehicles off the road. You only have to watch one episode of Roadkill before you go "WAAAAAT? They drove that on the road?!!!".
by using the 16 g wire initially, using 14 g wire wouldnt seem to make anything safer as the current being used is still going through 16 g...and i dont think thats heavy enough for the load.......in my build, I ran flexible plastic bathtub/shower conduit.This is the type that is used for when you have a removable shower head and looks like it has a chrome plated coil around it..... I also used12v auto relays...the 16g ran power to the relays while 14g was run to handle the actual power to the halogen sealed beams. ..dont forget to make your buckets moisture proof as that will blow out your halogen bulbs instantly. ( another reason i used halogen sealed beam lights).that being said..i really like your build..great idea using the bowls.
The larger gauge wire can handle more current without getting hot. The 16 gauge wire is too small for the halogen lights, causing the wire to get hot and possibly melting the insulation creating a fire hazard. I have seen now a few cars/hotrods burn up due to wiring issues and most often using too light of a wire gauge. There are charts showing currents, wire length and the require wire gauge for the circuit. Check out this link for wire length, current, and wire gauge suncruisermedia.com/downloads/3676/download/Wire%20Sizing%20Chart.jpg?cb=dfe3431e84f019394b67d8edde07a098 I did make a seal for the headlights but thanks for the reminder.
It would probably be smarter to have the original reflectors resilvered, since using whatever bowl you can find probably won't put the bulb the proper distance behind the lens.
True, but that was not available to me as an option so this resulted in plan "B" and the video as a cheap alternative. As it turned out the bowls had the same parabolic shape as the original reflectors.
I just started this modification on one of my lights I have for a motorcycle build. This video is worth its weight in gold!!!! Thanks to you. I went from were do I even start to I now have a plan!!
Just watched your conversion, keep up the good work, I'm renovating an old VW single cab pickup from the late 80's, no where near as old as the truck's you are working on, however you have given me some brilliant idea's , for modifications I can make to mine with just a bit of effort an a few basic item's. I've also looked at some of your other video's, absolutely brilliant, thank's for sharing your skills....
Creative excellence and clear safe instructions in a well presented video format . Well done .
Outstanding tutorial from a craftsman who knows that true Hot-Rods are built not bought... Anybody can throw down $20k and drive one but few people can build one from scratch... 😉👍
Thanks. That is my focus, build it with a bit of creativity and not a bucket of money.
i wish i was that "anybody" with $20k... lol. jk you make excellent point!
This is a $10 conversion; however, requires a few thousand dollars in tools. Moreover, agree with the others about aiming and focusing the headlights and the reflectivity of stainless steel versus silver. Very informative and educational.
Very cool idea. I’m going to do it.
Thank you for the inspiration 😁 I’m going to try something similar with my 1992 Yamaha YSR50 it’s a 6v.
Nice. Very good restoration.
good job well done 👍
I don't dare to imagine what would a beam pattern look like. I mean - I keep modding and inventing, investing hundreds of hours and euros into headlight prototypes to make an innovative pattern to improve visibility and decrease glare to the oncoming traffic only to make a decent safety improvement, while you take a fucking bowl and promote it as a halogen headlight. Well that really keeps me thinking.
+zokieboi - well hot rodding can come about two ways. One spend thousands of $$$$$$ or come up with alternate solutions that make it more affordable and still safe. What I have shown here is a method of improving the original 1928-31 Ford headlight using a cost effective method. It does have a very improved light beam over the original. Yes it will not be as good as something you spend hundreds of $$$$$ on but not everyone that builds a hot rod has deep pockets to spend unlimited amounts of $$$$$ for their project.
+1929fordhotrod and it still keeps me thinking - it can't be DOT approved, but it's so cheap that it's actually genius :)
+1929fordhotrod +zokieboy - Hey John, your website is dope, got lots of inspiration there! I know its been a long time to comment, but I'm amazed by how you response to this somewhat interesting comment from this zokieboi, while most would just burst their lips replying, but that's a smart and humble answer you gave him. As i see it, and as you stated, there's always 2 side in the customworks world, the one with unlimited amount of $$$$$$ and the one with shallow pockets with only deep spirit on working on their build, and you wrap that well in the answer, and these 2 comments really shows those 2 ways in a nutshell, glad to see these 2 well written words, and there's still people using their head in comments, where most people just saying shits on comments. *btw for those who didnt have a lathe, you could also bore a hole with a holesaw or a frostner bit to make the hole for the housing in the bowl, just mark a center and drill through it and bam.
From what I can work out, the USA has little if any inspection of cars after they are sold. No yearly test as we have in the UK (and I suspect, the rest of Europe). The police seem to be responsible for taking unroadworthy vehicles off the road.
You only have to watch one episode of Roadkill before you go "WAAAAAT? They drove that on the road?!!!".
fantastic work
by using the 16 g wire initially, using 14 g wire wouldnt seem to make anything safer as the current being used is still going through 16 g...and i dont think thats heavy enough for the load.......in my build, I ran flexible plastic bathtub/shower conduit.This is the type that is used for when you have a removable shower head and looks like it has a chrome plated coil around it..... I also used12v auto relays...the 16g ran power to the relays while 14g was run to handle the actual power to the halogen sealed beams. ..dont forget to make your buckets moisture proof as that will blow out your halogen bulbs instantly. ( another reason i used halogen sealed beam lights).that being said..i really like your build..great idea using the bowls.
The larger gauge wire can handle more current without getting hot. The 16 gauge wire is too small for the halogen lights, causing the wire to get hot and possibly melting the insulation creating a fire hazard. I have seen now a few cars/hotrods burn up due to wiring issues and most often using too light of a wire gauge. There are charts showing currents, wire length and the require wire gauge for the circuit. Check out this link for wire length, current, and wire gauge suncruisermedia.com/downloads/3676/download/Wire%20Sizing%20Chart.jpg?cb=dfe3431e84f019394b67d8edde07a098
I did make a seal for the headlights but thanks for the reminder.
Very Nice!
That’s awesome 👏
Good Job Man
Hey, thanks for sharing. I plan to do a similar conversion myself.
One problem is that the silver reflects the most light and stainless and chrome don't reflect near as much.
You are correct but this was a simple and cheap alternative that still works and a whole lot better than the vintage setup.
could have stuck with a heat resistant the headlamp holder to the bowl.
It would probably be smarter to have the original reflectors resilvered, since using whatever bowl you can find probably won't put the bulb the proper distance behind the lens.
True, but that was not available to me as an option so this resulted in plan "B" and the video as a cheap alternative. As it turned out the bowls had the same parabolic shape as the original reflectors.
Brilliant
Doesn’t a halogen sealed beam cost just $15 anyway?
Incorrect size. Sealed beam is only up to 7” whereas a lot of older cars are 8” or so which don’t exist as a sealed beam unit unfortunately.
Geezuz, you need an effing degree to accomplish all that ! I'll post a better way in the near future...