I was watching the pile of tools that accumulated on the plate while you were drilling and tapping. I find myself with a pile of tools when I work on things also and they are a lot harder to put up than they were to get out. Thanks for an interesting video.
I appreciate you pulling the camera back to show not only the process (e.g., drilling and tapping) but also the operation of the tools themselves. Thank you.
Totally agreed. It's also nice to see a machine being set up for a process - such as swapping a mill from vertical to horizontal mode or using a heavy rotary table lifted by crane. It's not just seeing the actual 'work' being done (such as drilling a big hole) but all the prepatory effort that goes into the setup. There's something about seeing the machine being operated. Possibly more so with Adam Booth (Abom79) when he has something large in a lathe - and the easy operation of the clutch lever and the chuck and work just start rotating seemingly effortlessly. I will say with Keith's radial drill - it seems the spindle motor switch moves left or right for forward and reverse and noting Keith setting it going the wrong way, it perhaps isn't as intuitive as a radial drill I used where down was for forward and up for reverse - which makes total sense.
I notice that Keith will usually do this. He doesn't make us watch every single hole drilled, milling pass, surface grind or gear tooth cut but he repeats enough of them, at various camera angles, to give us a full sense of the process. I've learned a lot by osmosis. Even though I've never laid a hand on any metal working equipment, because of him I have a deeper appreciation of what goes into the every day machined items I've heretofore taken for granted. Plus marveled at not only the progress of metal working technology but also at how much older technology is very important to modern day industry. Thanks, Keith!
Boy I do love that radial drill. It has such a neat and differant control system mechanism for feed and running operations. And is just plain massive... thanks for sharing...Vic
Watching you operate your radial drill took me back almost 50 years when I had a summer job with North American Rockwell at their Detroit transmission and axle plant. I would get all of my work done, and go to the area where they used radial drills to bore and tap all the holes in rear axle housings. The guys that worked there would take the time to answer all of my endless questions.
Top tip: It is not necessary to drill a pilot hole more than a little larger than the core (the chisel edge) of the next drill bit. Also, if the tap slips in the chuck - keep going; the heat generated will expand the tap and chuck and the tap will start rotating again.
Keith. I have a two rails made from 2in square MS bar a couple of feet long. The top and bottom faces are machined flat and parallel. Counter bored holes to line up with the table tee slots and a series of tapped holes for clamping the work piece. Much cheaper than a big plate, much easier to handle and more accurate than a rolled plate. They have been extremely handy over the years.
I am no machinist but took one semester in trade-school. One of the first things we learned is that ALL chucks should be tightened using at least 2 of the holes. This helps relieve stress from binding within the chuck and get a better grip on the tool. With large taps... tighten using all three holes.
i learn a lot here. I own a lot of the same tools, but never used them much. Every day i learn more. Sometimes i question the how or why, but his way always works
Thanks Keith. I spent 25 years running piece work production on a Carlton radial frill one hot and steamy summer. I hoped to never see a radial drill again in my life.
Oh lookee! Its an autographed sheet of plate steel! :) I'm not sure whether I'm more excited to see this progress, or to see the metal planer run the first time.
One thing I've learned when putting drill bits in a chuck is ... if you tighten from all three holes on the chuck the drill bit or other tools have a less tendency of slipping.
Who need a Flexarm when you have a Radial Drill. I guess every shop needs a large fixture plate at some point in time, if you borrowed Adams thats 2 trips every time you had a need for it so biting the bullet and getting one now makes perfect sense to me.
This was the first time I've seen a rotary drill used. I'm not a machinist. I see the reason and usefulness of it when working on heavy items. Yours looks like a fine machine.
Greetings Keith. The brief bit of music at the beginning of your presentation reminds me of a song I used to enjoy very much but I cannot, remember what it was. I very much hope you know and are willing to remind me!😃
I was taught in the 60s that you don't have to heave so much to tighten a Jacobs chuck if you would simply tighten at each position around the chuck. I may "waste" a little time overall, but I spend less of it RE-tightening and re-working parts that had a problem.
You could find out the size and spacing on the tables Tee slots and put a couple blocks on the bottom of the plate to give horizontal locating and rigidity.
On New Yankee Workshop, Norm was certainly a stickler for safety. I remember his speech before using any of his woodworking machines. Both he and Keith are definitely excellent teachers.
Question about tightening a drill bit (or tap) in the chuck. I noticed you - and most of the other machinists on UA-cam - tighten on only one of the chuck key holes. And this time your tap slipped, even though you put some muscle onto that chuck key. I was taught by my dad to tighten using all three holes. One of my dad’s pet peeves was picking up a drill bit with the shank that been beat up
Generally, I use just one hole. One hole should be sufficient - especially if the chuck is properly lubricated (most aren't!). For more secure gripping, I will go around the holes tightening each in turn, possibly more than once. Taps are supposed to be driven via their square end - where no slipping can occur. Driving them as Keith shows generates a clutch - the tap slips - which is a lot better than having a properly driven tap breaking ! One of somebody else's pet peeves is calling a drill a drill bit !
a few years back I saw an overhead crane that had a couple of drop down DC motors with wheels ( like the 50's gas engines you'd put on bicycles to drive the rear wheel ) that they could control with a box on a cable. That way he or she could line up what they were carrying more quickly. It was a bigger crane though. Just a thought.
Keith, a truck shop can be a source of large hardware when no one else is open ... but only if you got to have it 'now,' it tends to get expensive. I think they charge by gold weight ...
I used to use a Procunier tapping head on a big Do All radial drill when I worked at Boeing. Tapped a LOT of holes with one. You said that plate was expensive but it can be a multi purpose piece of material. Just consider it an investment.
I spent a year attached to this exact same Carlson radial arm drill doing parts for Caterpillar D-8's. It is an awesome machine, but the company I was working for was not so awesome, neither were the people I followed on other shifts. I had to do the rework for the shift before me, and they always left me a large pile with broken bits and taps. Many days I spent 10 hours doing rework and then the supervisor would wonder why I didn't get any new plates done.
Cheap? No. Easy to find? Half a dozen places within 15km, off the shelf. So locally (South Africa), a 600 x 900 x 20mm plate (about 24 x 36 x ¾ inch) would cost R3200. About $225. What would that cost in the rest of the world?
BosstedBoiz Kyle just added a chunk of plate to his MR2 - it was a chunk of 3/8 plate, and he paid almost $400. It was around 130lbs when he picked it up from the steel yard.
@@johnalexander2349 Where are you ? Jo'berg ? SA is still an active country and I've been surprised how easy it is to get hold of stuff. England's dying - you'll struggle to find any England made machine tools now. Maybe different for CNC but traditional MT companies import Chinese and just add their badge to them.
In Australia it’s it’s pretty much sold by the kg over 6 mm 12 /1/2 inch is a about $1000 for a sheet 2.4 x. 1.2 so 2000aud for 1 inch and finding some one to cut you a small pice over 8 mm pretty much not going to happen and if it dose it’s 4 x the price sold by the kg unless you know some one
A simple job but satisfying to watch. I enjoyed the 20N Jacobs chuck. Wonder what is the biggest chuck you've ever seen? 20N is the biggest Service Kit offered by McMaster-Carr.
Kieth, I cringed when you changed the chuck's and seated them by banging the jaw tips onto the plate. That's a good way to crack the scrolls or the jaw teath. The jaws should be retracted into the body and pressure applied to the body of the chuck not the jaw tips. I believe that instruction comes with the Jacob's Chuck's as well as the rebuild kits. I inherited a size 16 that was jammed. I managed to repair it by changing the scrolls which had half the teeth torn off presumably by doing exactly what you did. Other wise good to see the big RD in use. It looks to be a gentle giant.
Me too! On our American radial drill we always retracted the jaws. Also had a 4" x 6" piece of 1/2" plywood attached by a cable lanyard to the drift for bumping the chuck and Morris taper drill during changes. Holes drilled ranged from 1 1/8" - 4 1/8" through pre-hardened steel. Also had a 2" x 4" tag lanyarded to the chuck key for quick find identification.
The radial arm drill is very nice. Can you bolt the plate onto a pallet for driving it to FL? I would because he may have a forklift to "pick it" from your pick up truck.
After making a living in the overhead crane industry I cringe every time I see you using that chain hoist. If I could afford it I would love to buy you an electric hoist. Love your video's and never miss one.
@@5x535 Nothing wrong with a chain hoist as a mater of fact it suits the portability of Keith's gantry crane. An electric hoist would be much smoother to operate. Using your thumb to push a control button is a lot easier than pulling on a chain. It does have to be plugged into the wall however.
My boss told me when you only have one supplier, you should buy them roses and candy. That applies to countries that make the inventory. Thanks to someone’s short sidedness or the huge demand using Amazon, our local supply train has jumped the tracks. Perhaps you could check availability of bolts on Banggood.
I have often wondered if breathing the rust dust created using a wire wheel is dangerous to breath? All dusts are not good but should we be wearing a dust mask when doing clean-up work?
I sincerely hope that American entrepreneurs figure out that in this situation going round, where the price of steel has risen, they should re stoke the fires of industry and get a local system back on line. There's plenty of ways to make it work cleanly these days, it's not like the 80's and 90's when the industry was offered as scrap to create the overseas one...
I'm surprised that Adam didn't come up with a solution. I think a grinder set up to ride on the machined surfaces could grind that down and then could be scraped in if necessary.
@@bobhudson6659 he could have used a slightly larger pilot drill and saved all the changes but when your time is not charged by the hour a bit wasted is not a problem.
@@littleworkshopofhorrors2395 I hate wasting time .. even when it isn't a factor in the job. I just like being efficient. I would have used the 20N from the git-go and used a spring loaded tap guide with a 1/2" shank to locate the hole and a 1/2" drill for a pilot. But ... that's just me. There's numerous ways to run a job.
Keith seems to have a fair number of hand-held power tools that run off batteries. This means that he has to have a collection of battery chargers to go with them. I wonder if he has all these chargers organized into a charging station.
Why do people always seem to tighten a work piece in a lathe chuck a couple times yet ignore 2 out of 3 holes in a drill chuck. The small amount of clearance within the drill chuck can cause a wedging of the rotating parts lessening, clamping force. There are 3 jaws and 3 holes. Yes, it takes extra time but it can keep the shank of a drill or tap from getting "boogered up" and reduce jaw wear.
4:56 "That cleaned up nice" - huh - hasn't even got all his name off it ! Given the option of using either battery powered or mains powered hand tools, I'd always go for mains powered.
I know this is a bad idea, but I'm going ask anyway... Couldn't you get some or all of the milling done by using the radial drill? You have one gear driven axis that you could use to pull the end mill in a straight line, move the arm or work a bit but keep a good amount of overlap and pull another line. Again, I know it's not the correct way, but would it be good enough? And yes I know, the vibrations will make the chuck fall out. But you could machine the extension you made to the correct taper, cut a slot and use another wedge to hold it from the removal slot in the spindle. These are all really bad ideas, but I'd probably have to try it if this job was on my table, and I had that machine.
I was watching the pile of tools that accumulated on the plate while you were drilling and tapping. I find myself with a pile of tools when I work on things also and they are a lot harder to put up than they were to get out. Thanks for an interesting video.
Love seeing you move the head of that radial drill into position. What a gorgeous, serious machine that is. Thanks for the video.
And that's without using the power traverse !
I appreciate you pulling the camera back to show not only the process (e.g., drilling and tapping) but also the operation of the tools themselves. Thank you.
Totally agreed. It's also nice to see a machine being set up for a process - such as swapping a mill from vertical to horizontal mode or using a heavy rotary table lifted by crane. It's not just seeing the actual 'work' being done (such as drilling a big hole) but all the prepatory effort that goes into the setup.
There's something about seeing the machine being operated. Possibly more so with Adam Booth (Abom79) when he has something large in a lathe - and the easy operation of the clutch lever and the chuck and work just start rotating seemingly effortlessly.
I will say with Keith's radial drill - it seems the spindle motor switch moves left or right for forward and reverse and noting Keith setting it going the wrong way, it perhaps isn't as intuitive as a radial drill I used where down was for forward and up for reverse - which makes total sense.
I notice that Keith will usually do this.
He doesn't make us watch every single hole drilled, milling pass, surface grind or gear tooth cut but he repeats enough of them, at various camera angles, to give us a full sense of the process.
I've learned a lot by osmosis. Even though I've never laid a hand on any metal working equipment, because of him I have a deeper appreciation of what goes into the every day machined items I've heretofore taken for granted. Plus marveled at not only the progress of metal working technology but also at how much older technology is very important to modern day industry.
Thanks, Keith!
@@johnmanning4577 But Keith Fenner drags everything out - so I don't usually watch his long videos !
@@millomweb Exactly!
Thank you for another informative and entertaining video Mr Rucker. All the best from Australia
Boy I do love that radial drill. It has such a neat and differant control system mechanism for feed and running operations. And is just plain massive... thanks for sharing...Vic
Watching you operate your radial drill took me back almost 50 years when I had a summer job with North American Rockwell at their Detroit
transmission and axle plant. I would get all of my work done, and go to the area where they used radial drills to bore and tap all the holes in rear axle housings. The guys that worked there would take the time to answer all of my endless questions.
Nice work Keith. That drill seems like a smooth machine👍
Your's should be the same but just a smaller version.
@@CraigLYoung What's he got ?
@@millomweb : Subscribe to Steve's chanel.
Hello Steve, Keith’s radial drill did make that an easy job! If used a couple of parallels he would not of even have to unbolt and spin the plate!
@@KG-yn9qi If he'd bolted it down at 45°, all holes would have been just off the table !
Top tip:
It is not necessary to drill a pilot hole more than a little larger than the core (the chisel edge) of the next drill bit.
Also, if the tap slips in the chuck - keep going; the heat generated will expand the tap and chuck and the tap will start rotating again.
Keith. I have a two rails made from 2in square MS bar a couple of feet long. The top and bottom faces are machined flat and parallel. Counter bored holes to line up with the table tee slots and a series of tapped holes for clamping the work piece.
Much cheaper than a big plate, much easier to handle and more accurate than a rolled plate. They have been extremely handy over the years.
I am no machinist but took one semester in trade-school. One of the first things we learned is that ALL chucks should be tightened using at least 2 of the holes. This helps relieve stress from binding within the chuck and get a better grip on the tool. With large taps... tighten using all three holes.
... and sometimes more than once around the chuck. The one I use on my lathe requires several rounds
Not sure if driving home the Morse taper tool using the chuck jaws is “good practice.”
I'm in looooove with that radial drill!
6 or 7 motors on it
WHAT !!!!!!!!!
But it does look like his spindle motor's running backwards !
You have an amazing collection of machines. Thanks for sharing your journey with us.
Very nicely done Keith. I have always found big radial arm drill presses to be remarkably useful machines.
i learn a lot here. I own a lot of the same tools, but never used them much. Every day i learn more. Sometimes i question the how or why, but his way always works
Thanks Keith. I spent 25 years running piece work production on a Carlton radial frill one hot and steamy summer. I hoped to never see a radial drill again in my life.
Which way do you move the lever to get the spindle rotating in the forward direction ?
Like a lot of other commenters, we love that drill !
Never seen one of those before. That's a super cool machine!
That’s a gorgeous drill
Just gotta say that Radial Arm Drill is a thing of beauty. *drool*
Thanks Keith, big radial is awesome!
Glad to see a new video on the stoker engine. I am really looking forward to seeing it restored and operating.
good to see the project progressing. Thanks!
Oh lookee! Its an autographed sheet of plate steel! :) I'm not sure whether I'm more excited to see this progress, or to see the metal planer run the first time.
One thing I've learned when putting drill bits in a chuck is ... if you tighten from all three holes on the chuck the drill bit or other tools have a less tendency of slipping.
I have learned that very same thing. It is amazing how easy the first pull on the second position on your chuck is. No more spinning andor galling.
The sound of the grinder made me have a flashback to a rainy Saturday at the museum!🤣
Who need a Flexarm when you have a Radial Drill. I guess every shop needs a large fixture plate at some point in time, if you borrowed Adams thats 2 trips every time you had a need for it so biting the bullet and getting one now makes perfect sense to me.
Just guessing, but from what Adam is putting up lately he is not at the shop but on the road and not even available to give him the plate right now.
I have sharpened transfer punches in the past but none lately. They are a real time saver. They used them a lot in the mold shop.
To fully tighten a Jacobs chuck, tighten the chuck key in all three holes. Sounds stupid but it works.
Works---like a charm!
My dad taught me that 50 yrs ago, I dont know if it works or why but I still do it anyway 😛
That radial drill is an object of great beauty, I absolutely love it. I used to use one regularly when I was building pump jacks for oil wells.
Art
Same make ?
@@millomweb I honestly don't remember, that was back in the late 70's.
I'm liking these videos before watching them!
Love to see that pillar drill in action! Thanks Keith
Has he got a pillar drill as well ?
Good job. I've done lots of drilling and tapping on a big radial drill during my years as a tool and die maker.
Looks good. I wish you all the best for getting this op completed. Can’t wait for assembly to begin. 😎👍👀
This was the first time I've seen a rotary drill used. I'm not a machinist. I see the reason and usefulness of it when working on heavy items. Yours looks like a fine machine.
"rotary drill used" - it's a 'radia'l drill - as the drilling head is on a radial arm from the main column.
I've found when tightening a drill chuck if you go to all 3 holes and tighten you usually get a better grip than just tightening in 1 hole only.
Greetings Keith.
The brief bit of music at the beginning of your presentation reminds me of a song I used to enjoy very much but I cannot, remember what it was.
I very much hope you know and are willing to remind me!😃
I was taught in the 60s that you don't have to heave so much to tighten a Jacobs chuck if you would simply tighten at each position around the chuck. I may "waste" a little time overall, but I spend less of it RE-tightening and re-working parts that had a problem.
Awesome video . Always enjoy watching .
Thanks for the showing us the jig borer - been a long time since I was around one.
Good stuff Keith!
Great job Keith, keep'um coming.
Thank you for sharing. Enjoyed.
Great to see this progressing. Keep well
You could find out the size and spacing on the tables Tee slots and put a couple blocks on the bottom of the plate to give horizontal locating and rigidity.
That drill is a monster!
Couple sets of 2x4x6 blocks would be handy for that table and this big work. Just center and lock it down. Might make a set yourself.
Wow Keith that radial drill is the kiddy for the job 👴🏻👍
Glad to see progress being made on the stoker engine. Been following for a long time!
Looking great Keith
You remind me of Norm Abram, he was a good teacher as well.
On New Yankee Workshop, Norm was certainly a stickler for safety. I remember his speech before using any of his woodworking machines. Both he and Keith are definitely excellent teachers.
Question about tightening a drill bit (or tap) in the chuck. I noticed you - and most of the other machinists on UA-cam - tighten on only one of the chuck key holes. And this time your tap slipped, even though you put some muscle onto that chuck key.
I was taught by my dad to tighten using all three holes. One of my dad’s pet peeves was picking up a drill bit with the shank that been beat up
Generally, I use just one hole. One hole should be sufficient - especially if the chuck is properly lubricated (most aren't!). For more secure gripping, I will go around the holes tightening each in turn, possibly more than once.
Taps are supposed to be driven via their square end - where no slipping can occur. Driving them as Keith shows generates a clutch - the tap slips - which is a lot better than having a properly driven tap breaking !
One of somebody else's pet peeves is calling a drill a drill bit !
a few years back I saw an overhead crane that had a couple of drop down DC motors with wheels ( like the 50's gas engines you'd put on bicycles to drive the rear wheel ) that they could control with a box on a cable. That way he or she could line up what they were carrying more quickly. It was a bigger crane though. Just a thought.
that drill is a cool tool.
Keith, a truck shop can be a source of large hardware when no one else is open ... but only if you got to have it 'now,' it tends to get expensive. I think they charge by gold weight ...
Ag Dealers too.
Actually John Deere bolts,nuts and such aren't as expensive as you might think.
14:30 This is Keith saying to Adam, so who needs a 'Flex-Arm' ?
Nice drill you have there, Keith !
Looks like a good set of Lyndex tap holders would work nice with the radial arm drill.
I love those radial drills, ran one for 2 years when I first started my journeyman ship at Clyde Iron Works in Duluth, MN. Yes fa long time ago.
A similar Carlton ?
@@millomweb Cincinnati
man I love that drill.
I used to use a Procunier tapping head on a big Do All radial drill when I worked at Boeing. Tapped a LOT of holes with one. You said that plate was expensive but it can be a multi purpose piece of material. Just consider it an investment.
That's a really big chuck.
19:00 If you'd mounted the plate at 45° to the table, all 4 holes would have been clear of the table for drilling right through !
12:45 Look, a drill with automatic chip breaker!
Nice belt you are wearing. Two eagles in my house.
You have a right to be very proud of that fact sir!
Nephew is an eagle, takes huge parental support!
I spent a year attached to this exact same Carlson radial arm drill doing parts for Caterpillar D-8's. It is an awesome machine, but the company I was working for was not so awesome, neither were the people I followed on other shifts. I had to do the rework for the shift before me, and they always left me a large pile with broken bits and taps. Many days I spent 10 hours doing rework and then the supervisor would wonder why I didn't get any new plates done.
Are you planning jacking blocks on your fixture plate, to steady the stoker engine to prevent the part from shifting on the bolt holes when machining.
Interesting. Thanks for sharing the video. Appreciated.
Finally some one acknowledging that a piece of 1 inch plate is not cheap or easy to find
Cheap? No. Easy to find? Half a dozen places within 15km, off the shelf.
So locally (South Africa), a 600 x 900 x 20mm plate (about 24 x 36 x ¾ inch) would cost R3200. About $225. What would that cost in the rest of the world?
Try doubling that in Zimbabwe
BosstedBoiz Kyle just added a chunk of plate to his MR2 - it was a chunk of 3/8 plate, and he paid almost $400. It was around 130lbs when he picked it up from the steel yard.
@@johnalexander2349 Where are you ? Jo'berg ?
SA is still an active country and I've been surprised how easy it is to get hold of stuff. England's dying - you'll struggle to find any England made machine tools now. Maybe different for CNC but traditional MT companies import Chinese and just add their badge to them.
In Australia it’s it’s pretty much sold by the kg over 6 mm 12 /1/2 inch is a about $1000 for a sheet 2.4 x. 1.2 so 2000aud for 1 inch and finding some one to cut you a small pice over 8 mm pretty much not going to happen and if it dose it’s 4 x the price sold by the kg unless you know some one
Thanks Keith.
A simple job but satisfying to watch. I enjoyed the 20N Jacobs chuck. Wonder what is the biggest chuck you've ever seen? 20N is the biggest Service Kit offered by McMaster-Carr.
Kieth, I cringed when you changed the chuck's and seated them by banging the jaw tips onto the plate. That's a good way to crack the scrolls or the jaw teath. The jaws should be retracted into the body and pressure applied to the body of the chuck not the jaw tips. I believe that instruction comes with the Jacob's Chuck's as well as the rebuild kits. I inherited a size 16 that was jammed. I managed to repair it by changing the scrolls which had half the teeth torn off presumably by doing exactly what you did.
Other wise good to see the big RD in use. It looks to be a gentle giant.
Me too! On our American radial drill we always retracted the jaws. Also had a 4" x 6" piece of 1/2" plywood attached by a cable lanyard to the drift for bumping the chuck and Morris taper drill during changes. Holes drilled ranged from 1 1/8" - 4 1/8" through pre-hardened steel. Also had a 2" x 4" tag lanyarded to the chuck key for quick find identification.
Good morning Mr.Rucker
The radial arm drill is very nice. Can you bolt the plate onto a pallet for driving it to FL? I would because he may have a forklift to "pick it" from your pick up truck.
Enjoyed it, brother
that is a slick drill! seems very versatile head swing powerfeed and what not... did you restore that?
Thanks for sharing!
After making a living in the overhead crane industry I cringe every time I see you using that chain hoist. If I could afford it I would love to buy you an electric hoist. Love your video's and never miss one.
Why, Dennis? Is there something inherently wrong with a chain hoist? Just asking.
@@5x535 Nothing wrong with a chain hoist as a mater of fact it suits the portability of Keith's gantry crane. An electric hoist would be much smoother to operate. Using your thumb to push a control button is a lot easier than pulling on a chain. It does have to be plugged into the wall however.
My boss told me when you only have one supplier, you should buy them roses and candy. That applies to countries that make the inventory. Thanks to someone’s short sidedness or the huge demand using Amazon, our local supply train has jumped the tracks. Perhaps you could check availability of bolts on Banggood.
W. Edwards Demming can take much blame for our supply chain issues.
JIT delivery is actually, Just Too Late delivery.
Keith - why do you need to change the chuck in the drill? Could you not use the bigger 20N for the drill bits or are they too small for it ?
When a chuck slips, try tightening it at all three holes. I've never had it fail.
That is the way that I was taught. Never failed me either.
Hiya Keith
I have often wondered if breathing the rust dust created using a wire wheel is dangerous to breath? All dusts are not good but should we be wearing a dust mask when doing clean-up work?
I always do and hearing protection as well. Sadly I see way too many people not protecting themselves.
I sincerely hope that American entrepreneurs figure out that in this situation going round, where the price of steel has risen, they should re stoke the fires of industry and get a local system back on line. There's plenty of ways to make it work cleanly these days, it's not like the 80's and 90's when the industry was offered as scrap to create the overseas one...
What ever happened to this project? This is the last video of it's restoration that I can find.
ALWAYS ENJOYABLE, PUSHIN THAT 200K MARK, HOPE YA HIT IT SOON
What a great machine. Thank for answering my question. Would that drilling machine be rigid enough to do some milling?
No
invoke the spirit of quinn dunki and make those bolts! :D
Keith you need some electric motors on the gantry to help you move it
This is interesting stuff. Instead of buying bolts, would it be too much trouble to thread some rod and create some nuts out of plate? Just curious.
I'm surprised that Adam didn't come up with a solution. I think a grinder set up to ride on the machined surfaces could grind that down and then could be scraped in if necessary.
Why don´t you put locks on two of the rollers of the gantry crane to keep them from castoring when not needed?
I'm curious. Why can't you use the large chuck for all of the drilling and tapping?
I have a Jacobs 20N chuck at home in my shed. Minimum shaft size in chuck is 3/8", max is 1". Think Keith was using smaller than 3/8" as pilot hole.
@@bobhudson6659 he could have used a slightly larger pilot drill and saved all the changes but when your time is not charged by the hour a bit wasted is not a problem.
@@ralphgesler5110 unless he has a bigger centre punch perhaps.
@@littleworkshopofhorrors2395 I hate wasting time .. even when it isn't a factor in the job. I just like being efficient. I would have used the 20N from the git-go and used a spring loaded tap guide with a 1/2" shank to locate the hole and a 1/2" drill for a pilot. But ... that's just me. There's numerous ways to run a job.
@@tsmartin always different ways as it varies with machinist and equipment and which way the wind blows.😉
My skin crawled when he used the power feed for those drills. I was expecting a broken bit somewhere in the video. That made my nuts tighten up.
Common practice.
Lots better chance of breaking the tap.
Who needs a Flex-Arm? :)
Keith seems to have a fair number of hand-held power tools that run off batteries. This means that he has to have a collection of battery chargers to go with them. I wonder if he has all these chargers organized into a charging station.
Everbilt3/4 in. x 36 in. Zinc Threaded Rod
Threaded rod 3/4" available at HD? only need one rod, 4 washers and 4 top nuts?
Whoa! First comment. Interesting job. Sometimes the fixture takes as much effort as the actual machining.
Not hardly in this job, machining that casting is going to be tough!
Why do people always seem to tighten a work piece in a lathe chuck a couple times yet ignore 2 out of 3 holes in a drill chuck. The small amount of clearance within the drill chuck can cause a wedging of the rotating parts lessening, clamping force. There are 3 jaws and 3 holes. Yes, it takes extra time but it can keep the shank of a drill or tap from getting "boogered up" and reduce jaw wear.
Agreed. I always "go around the horn" on all my chucks ... lathe and drill.
I would put collars on those 7/8" bolts so the engine can not slide around.
Keith, make the bolts :)
4:56 "That cleaned up nice" - huh - hasn't even got all his name off it !
Given the option of using either battery powered or mains powered hand tools, I'd always go for mains powered.
I know this is a bad idea, but I'm going ask anyway... Couldn't you get some or all of the milling done by using the radial drill? You have one gear driven axis that you could use to pull the end mill in a straight line, move the arm or work a bit but keep a good amount of overlap and pull another line.
Again, I know it's not the correct way, but would it be good enough?
And yes I know, the vibrations will make the chuck fall out. But you could machine the extension you made to the correct taper, cut a slot and use another wedge to hold it from the removal slot in the spindle.
These are all really bad ideas, but I'd probably have to try it if this job was on my table, and I had that machine.
Why do it the wrong way when he can do it the right way?
What no $6000+ hydraulic tapping machine? It can be done without one?